Hope it helps. Does leave the interior color a bit too glossy when viewed from the inside but it's a lot easier than masking the inside. Happy modeling!
That's a great idea and much better than holding it up to the light above. May have to pick one up myself. Glad the videos are helpful. Appreciate the feedback.
Sorry, that probably made no sense. Was thinking you had commented on the 3D printing video. I need to get that 1/72 kit and mask it up in a new video!!
Really appreciate that, Nacho. I've always got new stuff in the works. Just need to get my video production crew to speed things up...hahaha. Thanks again!
Thank you, Nacho. I really appreciate that generous offer. I thought about it but really didn't like the idea of looking like I was "begging" for money. It does take a good bit of energy and effort to make the content so I appreciate your recognition of that. Maybe in the future I'll do something like that but for now, I'm enjoying making videos and sharing tips, techniques, and builds with this great community. Again, really appreciate the offer!
Great video. I just got back into modeling after 40 years and the canopy painting has been troubling. The back lighting and the pencil will be a big help. Thanks.
I used to cut masks directly on the clear parts as shown in your video. Now I use thin strips of Tamiya tape, and Tamiya tape circles for really tight curves. The circles can be bought in precut sheets of different sizes, or you can use a circle cutter to make larger circles. This method is much more time consuming than cutting directly on the clear parts, but WAY less stressful and risky. I’d rather take more time making a mask in a leisurely relaxed manner rather than take the chance of ruining the parts.
Very nice. I use Tamiya tape too, but I also use Parafilm, which conforms to any shape. When stretched out it can be very thin, thinner than the paint, so though it will not let the paint bleed through, it may be harder to remove. To cure this, I just use two layers of film. It can be cut with a knife most easily if the Xacto blade has the slightest curve to the tip so the usual sharp point will not tear the film. I modified a #11 blade for this purpose. For longer curves, like canopy bows, you can roll the knife edge, rather than dragging the blade. I also use a rolling circular blade tool of .5 inch diameter to cut straight runs where corners are not an issue. Thanks for a great demo.
Thanks for the great info on using Parafilm. That is another great way to masks canopies that may be easier and better. I know Parafilm has been around a long time but embarrassingly enough, I have actually never given it a try. Sounds like I may have to now. Really appreciate the helpful input. It certainly will help others that may be fearful of cutting on a new clear part. Cheers!
I haven’t tried this yet but you make it seem so easy. I’m working on my first 1:72 scale plane and deathly afraid to scratch or cut the clear plastic and I definitely know brush painting it is a whole new level of hell. Thank you for putting time into this video, it was a great watch! 👍
This method does take a little practice and a steady hand. There's certainly a risk when cutting on the clear parts. I use it for 1:72 builds as well as 1:32 and as long as you take your time and use a fresh blade, you shouldn't have an troubles. Thanks for taking the time to comment on the video.
Hi Chad, i use same technique. Yesterday i have a bad time with my corsair canopy because of the curves in scale 1/72. The rear canopy goes wonderful but the front side i struggeld so much. I repeated it three times and at last it looks ok but not good.😩 I think of next time to use masking liquid because of the roundings. So today i make the last touches and then she is done. Pics are following.😊
I look forward to seeing those pics, Mathias. Maybe, if you are good with it, I will post some of your final pics on my community tab here on the channel. Sometimes in the small scales, making these masks can be a little challenging, especially as I get older and my eyes and hands don't work as well as they should :)
Great stuff! I'm curious, though, as to why you sprayed black first. Why not just use the final color and spray it in several light coats? Thanks for the information.
Thanks for the good words. I painted the frames black first as this will be seen from the inside and match the upper cockpit color (assuming it would be black). It was just for demonstration purposes to show how to match the inside cockpit color with the first coat.
I do something similar- but I trace the edges of the frame with a pen first and then remove the tape and cut it on a the mat. This way I won't heavy hand cut the clear part too. I build 1/72 scale and it's been the easiest way I have found.
Another great method. That is a safer approach for sure. I hate that feeling of the heavy hand or slip and then it's canopy sanding and polishing time. No fun there. Better safe than sorry for sure!! Thanks for sharing!!
I used your technique of oil paints wash/weathering for my Typhoon ! Just a small part of the plane (engine cowling, landing gear) but looks great ! Thanks 😊
For sure. I've started playing around with various colors to see what kind of effects I can create. Always fun to try new things. Let me know if you find something that works out great!
I remember years ago when I found out how to do canopies :))) I nearly flipped out. Aaahhh that’s how they do it. Was always trying to brush along the lines. One thing I don’t get though is how some paint the real thin ejection canopy break wires on canopies like on the harrier planes. Have you tried painting the inside seams with a Matt clear varnish, it matts the shine in the canopy making the black areas more dull.
Hey Alex, thanks for the comments. Brush painting never gets the job done right. As far as those break wires, I think that there are aftermarket sets available that make the job much easier. I haven't used 'em though. I have painted the insides with a matte coat. It works well. Great add for the community here to see that extra step. Thanks again!
Way to go, showing a technique that is fast becoming redundant with the vast selection of masking & stencil sets now available... fact is, not all kits have aftermarket masks and them waiting for out of stock items can put a project from prime position on the bench to bsck - burner because of the lack of confidence and the requisite skill to mask - up a canopy... once so much an integral skill... :)
Thanks, Christian. I was in no way trying to tell folks not to buy masks but like you said, sometimes they aren't available or in stock and sometimes, I feel like I spend way too much on a mask set that doesn't really buy me much other than save me a couple of mins. I personally enjoy my time at the workbench so doing canopies this way is a little relaxing for me. I totally understand, though, that using an aftermarket mask set can save some time and headache for others.
@@FlyingSModels There is the price point to consider with dye - cut masks, too, with very basic Eduard items in particular fetching a proportional cost of the actual kit in many cases, so to acquire and practice this skill is, I agree, great time put in at my bench also. As for stencil sets, well frankly I don't have a "cricut"... can't even spell it (?!), yet with the inclusion of a canopy mask, Montex are offering some okay value for money... you no the other hand there are techniques I still use to procure markings and numbering that belong to a not too distant past which I enjoy tackling myself... even the correct blades are so cheap as is the abundance of Washi Tape in my drawer! Keep it coming at us, mate and warm regards from my bench and household always :)
Happens to me all the time, Christian. Maybe I'm just too cheap of a modeler. But paying the same price (or even half the price) of the kit for a mask set kind of makes me pass on 'em most of the time. Besides, I usually only use a fraction of what's on the mask set.
Sure thing, Edward. I appreciate the feedback. I'm currently working on a few more full builds. Some old kits just for fun and some new ones. Always open to suggestions if you have something specific you think would be good to share :)
@@FlyingSModels hi chad.. looking forward to seeing them. I think a great build would be the swordfish.. I think you could really do it justice. I cant seem to find one where I am... always loved that plane. As always keep up the excellent work and looking forward to watching your next video👍
@@FlyingSModels thanks chad.. the bigger the better!! I'm finding it difficult to find a swordfish where I live but would definitely like one in my collection . Happy hunting. Keep safe. Edd
@@eddielane72 I like your style. The bigger the better for sure. I should be able to find a 1/32 Trumpy kit over this way without too many troubles. Stay safe on your end. Cheers!
Good tutorial, do you have any tips on how to paint near masked areas so the paint doesnt slip inside of the masked tape? this always happens to me even though i make a good seal. (i use handbrushes by the way). Thanks.
Thanks for the feedback. Using brushes is tricky, for sure. I always airbrush so it avoids that problem. I'm sure you have tried both of these but you might have been luck painting from the mask toward the canopy frame so you don't push paint up under the seal. Also, using less paint is always advisable. I know you can get a much better seal with Scotch clear tape but it's not low tack, unfortunately.
Nice tutorial. I am masking the canopies more or less the same way. It is easy to paint 1/48 or 1/32 canopies. It is getting a nightmare with scale 1/72 😅
Thanks for taking the time to provide some feedback. I agree, far more difficult in 1/72 but can be done with a lot of patience and a strong magnifying lens.
Another excellent video. Thank you so much. I've been plucking up the courage to have a go at a BF109 for example. I'm finding the prospect of tackling the mottling effect you see on certain WWII planes quite daunting. Do you have any hints and tips for how best to approach this please?
Thank you, Horatio. I appreciate the kind feedback. With regards to the mottling, there are several different ways to achieve this. I usually freehand mine using my fine tipped airbrush (0.2mm nozzle). But there are masks and stencils out there if you do not want to freehand. Here's an example of the masks but there are many varieties out there: www.hannants.co.uk/product/AEMM502?result-token=ZGv7I
@@horatiosplodge3370 That is the best way. I usually spray it at around 15-17 psi and make sure the paint is nice and thin (not too thin) so that it doesn't clog the brush. And then I spray it rally close to the surface.
Sure could and should, David. I just didn't do it as I wanted to show the masking part but if I were doing it "for real" I would have dipped it and allowed to cure for 24 hours before masking and spraying per the steps in the video.
Thanks Chad, The cutting for the compound curve, it's such an obvious answer and one I've been looking for. I've finally been able to pick up a Tamiya Corsair and I'm at the decaling stage, do you have a Facebook page or similar where we can share build photos? Cheers
For sure! You can share them here: facebook/flyingSmodels or you can go to my website: flyingsmodels.com and contact me through the contact section. We can establish an email link and share them that way. I can post on my facebook page and on the youtube community tab. Glad the compound curve slits helped and can't wait to see your awesome Corsair!
I use a thin band of tape cut with a ruler on my cutting mat and run it along the edge right up to the demarcation line. Thinner tamiya tape will have enough flex for compound curves, No need to cut on the model and ensures a straight edge using the natural edge of the tape. The corners can be cut to shape on the cutting mat and added. Then mask the remainder with the thicker stuff.
I've done that too. Works pretty well but there have been times when the curves at the rear of the canopy are tricky for the thin tape to navigate and then stay down. But it does work well, for the most part, and is definitely "safer" than cutting on the model if the modeler has any reservations about that. Appreciate the tip/advice on alternate approaches. Always good to provide the community with as many options as possible. Cheers!
Anyone any idea?...I have the Beaufighter revel 1/32...I dipped the canopys in Klear and a few weeks later the canopys went cloudy/foggy...It hadn't happened before to any of my other kits...but I cant seem to get rid of it which spoils the model actually...Ive tried dipping the canopys in windolene as someone suggested to get rid of the Klear...Not sure what to do..any help would be appreciated...Thanks
I've never had that problem with canopies but I did have trouble using Future Floor Polish as a clear sealer after many years of success. I switched over to AK Real Gauzy and have had great luck with that product.
@@FlyingSModels Thanks for the reply...I've posted this question on a few canopy videos and I'll see what folks have to say...Someone suggested polishing it out which may work but at the moment I'm not sure if it's the plastic or the Klear that is the issue...Weird, I've never had the issue before using Klear...the other canopys I've done with Klear are really clear...Good community the modeling community...Big Thanks again
Thanks, Harry. The techniques are the same no matter what the canopy and scale. Just a little more tedious for the B-17, that's for sure. I would think that Eduard would make masks for both the 17 and 88.
@@FlyingSModels Sure that would be great used to have a Badger 150 but it died so I would need to get another airbrush Looking for decent quality without ridiculous price
I could but the process would just be the same. Cutting each square window one at a time. I thought it might not be such a "quick" tip if I did one of those. But you are right, other canopies are more time consuming and complex. This video was just to show the process as some folks had asked about it in comments to previous videos. Cheers!
Piotrek Szczepanski I was assuming Adam was talking about the glue he used to attach the canopy/windscreen. I don’t think I want to try masking with Elmers, although I remember as a kid using it to make a “skin” by spreading it on my palm, letting it dry, and peeling it up...haha.
I use the same techniques for all of my canopies. I don't go into detail but I think you can see the results in this and other 1/72 video builds I have up on the channel: ruclips.net/video/ICFMqUqBUKo/видео.html
@@FlyingSModels nice work on the mustang. I'm not disagreeing just saying it can be very hard to do this with some models 2 examples bf110 and ju88 in 1/72. The less panels there are the easier it is like the mustang or even a me262. 👍
Totally understand. Just takes more time. Always good to have options like buying an aftermarket mask set. The good thing about the 110 and Ju-88's, though, is that most of the panels are square and easier to cut than the ones with compound curves. Just a lesson in patience, though. Cheers!
For me, it's because it's about showing the technique that can be applied to any model. I have used the same techniques for the 1/72 build videos that are up here on the channel.
I haven't had a good of luck with Frog tape (and similar brands) in getting crisp demarcation lines. Maybe they have some new stuff out there that I haven't tried, though.
First interior and second exterior colour, thats a big brain move, thanks for that👌🏻
Hope it helps. Does leave the interior color a bit too glossy when viewed from the inside but it's a lot easier than masking the inside. Happy modeling!
thanks for this. I now have an idea of the techniques that are used and the equipment I need. thanks!
Glad it helped! Appreciate the feedback!
I purchased an inexpensive led light board from Amazon for a different task. I'll have to give that try for this tip. Love the videos.
That's a great idea and much better than holding it up to the light above. May have to pick one up myself. Glad the videos are helpful. Appreciate the feedback.
I Love the QuiK TiP :Pro Result...thanks Chad!!!
Thanks! I hope they are helpful! Cheers!!
definitely the most challenging part for those who initiate plastic modeling.
Yep. I wouldn't say it's my favorite part but it's all part of the process, I guess. Cheers!
@@FlyingSModels Haha yeh. Especially on planes like a G4M or Ju 87
@@beaverchicken For sure!!
Now let’s see you do a 1/72 B-29 canopy… lol great video as always mate.
Thanks! I just need to get that clear printing resin printer and I'll be set!
Sorry, that probably made no sense. Was thinking you had commented on the 3D printing video. I need to get that 1/72 kit and mask it up in a new video!!
@@FlyingSModels lol, Nah you’ll be pulling your hair out masking that…I am sure someone does one it 1/144…
I'm trying to get back into modeling, and your didactic is a gift! Hope to see some new videos!
Thank you, Pablo. I'm am hopeful that the videos continue to provide a little help and enjoyment. Welcome back to the hobby!
Best new model building channel on RUclips! Can’t wait for more content! Keep up the great work!
Really appreciate that, Nacho. I've always got new stuff in the works. Just need to get my video production crew to speed things up...hahaha. Thanks again!
@@FlyingSModels have you considered a Patreon account? I would be willing to support the channel to keep up the great content.
Thank you, Nacho. I really appreciate that generous offer. I thought about it but really didn't like the idea of looking like I was "begging" for money. It does take a good bit of energy and effort to make the content so I appreciate your recognition of that. Maybe in the future I'll do something like that but for now, I'm enjoying making videos and sharing tips, techniques, and builds with this great community. Again, really appreciate the offer!
Great video. I just got back into modeling after 40 years and the canopy painting has been troubling. The back lighting and the pencil will be a big help. Thanks.
Glad it may have helped. Thanks for taking the time to provide some good feedback!
I used to cut masks directly on the clear parts as shown in your video. Now I use thin strips of Tamiya tape, and Tamiya tape circles for really tight curves. The circles can be bought in precut sheets of different sizes, or you can use a circle cutter to make larger circles. This method is much more time consuming than cutting directly on the clear parts, but WAY less stressful and risky. I’d rather take more time making a mask in a leisurely relaxed manner rather than take the chance of ruining the parts.
Yes, that is a much less risky approach. And taking the time helps practice patience too so it's a two for one. Thanks for the great tip.
Very nice. I use Tamiya tape too, but I also use Parafilm, which conforms to any shape. When stretched out it can be very thin, thinner than the paint, so though it will not let the paint bleed through, it may be harder to remove. To cure this, I just use two layers of film. It can be cut with a knife most easily if the Xacto blade has the slightest curve to the tip so the usual sharp point will not tear the film. I modified a #11 blade for this purpose. For longer curves, like canopy bows, you can roll the knife edge, rather than dragging the blade. I also use a rolling circular blade tool of .5 inch diameter to cut straight runs where corners are not an issue. Thanks for a great demo.
Thanks for the great info on using Parafilm. That is another great way to masks canopies that may be easier and better. I know Parafilm has been around a long time but embarrassingly enough, I have actually never given it a try. Sounds like I may have to now. Really appreciate the helpful input. It certainly will help others that may be fearful of cutting on a new clear part. Cheers!
Underlaying black for inside, excellent tip, thanks 😀
Glad you liked the tip. Thanks for checking out the video.
That is an excellent tip. Thanks so much for the demo.
@@QMore-fp7wn Thank you, Quinn. I hope it helps a little.
I haven’t tried this yet but you make it seem so easy. I’m working on my first 1:72 scale plane and deathly afraid to scratch or cut the clear plastic and I definitely know brush painting it is a whole new level of hell. Thank you for putting time into this video, it was a great watch! 👍
This method does take a little practice and a steady hand. There's certainly a risk when cutting on the clear parts. I use it for 1:72 builds as well as 1:32 and as long as you take your time and use a fresh blade, you shouldn't have an troubles. Thanks for taking the time to comment on the video.
That really was very helpful thank you very much for making the tutorial . Regards Gav.
Thank you, Gavin. I'm glad that it was helpful. Just wish I had a light box on my work table so the video would have been a little better :)
Outstanding video and presentation.
Thank you for the kind words.
Great Tutorial, thanks for sharing.
Thanks! I appreciate the feedback. Hope the video helps.
An outstanding video! Great tip!!!!
Thanks, David. Hope it helps a little.
Hi Chad, i use same technique. Yesterday i have a bad time with my corsair canopy because of the curves in scale 1/72. The rear canopy goes wonderful but the front side i struggeld so much. I repeated it three times and at last it looks ok but not good.😩 I think of next time to use masking liquid because of the roundings. So today i make the last touches and then she is done. Pics are following.😊
I look forward to seeing those pics, Mathias. Maybe, if you are good with it, I will post some of your final pics on my community tab here on the channel. Sometimes in the small scales, making these masks can be a little challenging, especially as I get older and my eyes and hands don't work as well as they should :)
Very helpful,thank you.
Your welcome. Glad it was helpful.
Brilliant. Thank you
Thank you for the feedback!
Nice video. Thanks.
Thank you. Hope it was helpful.
Thanks for the tip
Sure thing. Appreciate the feedback!
Great stuff! I'm curious, though, as to why you sprayed black first. Why not just use the final color and spray it in several light coats?
Thanks for the information.
Thanks for the good words. I painted the frames black first as this will be seen from the inside and match the upper cockpit color (assuming it would be black). It was just for demonstration purposes to show how to match the inside cockpit color with the first coat.
Very nice
I just subscribed
Thank you for the feedback, John. And I appreciate the sub as well! Cheers!
I do something similar- but I trace the edges of the frame with a pen first and then remove the tape and cut it on a the mat. This way I won't heavy hand cut the clear part too. I build 1/72 scale and it's been the easiest way I have found.
Another great method. That is a safer approach for sure. I hate that feeling of the heavy hand or slip and then it's canopy sanding and polishing time. No fun there. Better safe than sorry for sure!! Thanks for sharing!!
I used your technique of oil paints wash/weathering for my Typhoon ! Just a small part of the plane (engine cowling, landing gear) but looks great ! Thanks 😊
I'm glad you tried it and got some good results. It's a very versatile technique.
@@FlyingSModels yes I think Even could be used as wash but I think I’ll need more oil paints something similar to rust and smoke but thanks a lot !
For sure. I've started playing around with various colors to see what kind of effects I can create. Always fun to try new things. Let me know if you find something that works out great!
I remember years ago when I found out how to do canopies :))) I nearly flipped out. Aaahhh that’s how they do it. Was always trying to brush along the lines.
One thing I don’t get though is how some paint the real thin ejection canopy break wires on canopies like on the harrier planes. Have you tried painting the inside seams with a Matt clear varnish, it matts the shine in the canopy making the black areas more dull.
Hey Alex, thanks for the comments. Brush painting never gets the job done right. As far as those break wires, I think that there are aftermarket sets available that make the job much easier. I haven't used 'em though. I have painted the insides with a matte coat. It works well. Great add for the community here to see that extra step. Thanks again!
Way to go, showing a technique that is fast becoming redundant with the vast selection of masking & stencil sets now available... fact is, not all kits have aftermarket masks and them waiting for out of stock items can put a project from prime position on the bench to bsck - burner because of the lack of confidence and the requisite skill to mask - up a canopy... once so much an integral skill... :)
Thanks, Christian. I was in no way trying to tell folks not to buy masks but like you said, sometimes they aren't available or in stock and sometimes, I feel like I spend way too much on a mask set that doesn't really buy me much other than save me a couple of mins. I personally enjoy my time at the workbench so doing canopies this way is a little relaxing for me. I totally understand, though, that using an aftermarket mask set can save some time and headache for others.
@@FlyingSModels There is the price point to consider with dye - cut masks, too, with very basic Eduard items in particular fetching a proportional cost of the actual kit in many cases, so to acquire and practice this skill is, I agree, great time put in at my bench also. As for stencil sets, well frankly I don't have a "cricut"... can't even spell it (?!), yet with the inclusion of a canopy mask, Montex are offering some okay value for money... you no the other hand there are techniques I still use to procure markings and numbering that belong to a not too distant past which I enjoy tackling myself... even the correct blades are so cheap as is the abundance of Washi Tape in my drawer! Keep it coming at us, mate and warm regards from my bench and household always :)
@@FlyingSModels Correction : after referring to "cricut" should read "yet on the" other hand... blah blah blah... SwiftKey fail... :)
Happens to me all the time, Christian. Maybe I'm just too cheap of a modeler. But paying the same price (or even half the price) of the kit for a mask set kind of makes me pass on 'em most of the time. Besides, I usually only use a fraction of what's on the mask set.
@@FlyingSModels :)
Once again thanks for sharing Chad. Great tip. I use this method and it works the best for me. Any more build videos in the pipeline? Kind regards.
Sure thing, Edward. I appreciate the feedback. I'm currently working on a few more full builds. Some old kits just for fun and some new ones. Always open to suggestions if you have something specific you think would be good to share :)
@@FlyingSModels hi chad.. looking forward to seeing them. I think a great build would be the swordfish.. I think you could really do it justice. I cant seem to find one where I am... always loved that plane. As always keep up the excellent work and looking forward to watching your next video👍
Great suggestion, Edward. I love the Swordfish and have never built one. Might have to start looking for one. Now...1/48 or 1/32...hmmmm.
@@FlyingSModels thanks chad.. the bigger the better!! I'm finding it difficult to find a swordfish where I live but would definitely like one in my collection . Happy hunting. Keep safe. Edd
@@eddielane72 I like your style. The bigger the better for sure. I should be able to find a 1/32 Trumpy kit over this way without too many troubles. Stay safe on your end. Cheers!
Nice tutorial.
Thank you! Hope it helps a little.
Good tutorial, do you have any tips on how to paint near masked areas so the paint doesnt slip inside of the masked tape? this always happens to me even though i make a good seal. (i use handbrushes by the way). Thanks.
Thanks for the feedback. Using brushes is tricky, for sure. I always airbrush so it avoids that problem. I'm sure you have tried both of these but you might have been luck painting from the mask toward the canopy frame so you don't push paint up under the seal. Also, using less paint is always advisable. I know you can get a much better seal with Scotch clear tape but it's not low tack, unfortunately.
Nice tutorial. I am masking the canopies more or less the same way. It is easy to paint 1/48 or 1/32 canopies. It is getting a nightmare with scale 1/72 😅
Thanks for taking the time to provide some feedback. I agree, far more difficult in 1/72 but can be done with a lot of patience and a strong magnifying lens.
Another excellent video. Thank you so much. I've been plucking up the courage to have a go at a BF109 for example. I'm finding the prospect of tackling the mottling effect you see on certain WWII planes quite daunting. Do you have any hints and tips for how best to approach this please?
Thank you, Horatio. I appreciate the kind feedback. With regards to the mottling, there are several different ways to achieve this. I usually freehand mine using my fine tipped airbrush (0.2mm nozzle). But there are masks and stencils out there if you do not want to freehand. Here's an example of the masks but there are many varieties out there: www.hannants.co.uk/product/AEMM502?result-token=ZGv7I
@@FlyingSModels Thanks for the tips. I think I'll have a good long practice session with my airbrush on paper. All the best to you.
@@horatiosplodge3370 That is the best way. I usually spray it at around 15-17 psi and make sure the paint is nice and thin (not too thin) so that it doesn't clog the brush. And then I spray it rally close to the surface.
Technically complicated part for me is that cutting stage. So easy to scratch a canopy
Yep, that's for sure. I guess that's where buying the precut masks really lowers the risk (assuming they are available).
Ok for a P-51 canopy it's fine, but when you have a Heinkel 111 or Ju88 etc, Eduard set comes in handy.😉👍
No doubt. Although I've used this method for some pretty difficult tasks too...probably just being too cheap and stubborn...hahaha. Cheers!
It's a bit easier on the JU-88 because most of the windows are square. Just cut thin strips
Could you first dip the canopy in AK Gauzy and then mask and paint as shown in the video?
Sure could and should, David. I just didn't do it as I wanted to show the masking part but if I were doing it "for real" I would have dipped it and allowed to cure for 24 hours before masking and spraying per the steps in the video.
Thanks Chad, The cutting for the compound curve, it's such an obvious answer and one I've been looking for. I've finally been able to pick up a Tamiya Corsair and I'm at the decaling stage, do you have a Facebook page or similar where we can share build photos? Cheers
For sure! You can share them here: facebook/flyingSmodels or you can go to my website: flyingsmodels.com and contact me through the contact section. We can establish an email link and share them that way. I can post on my facebook page and on the youtube community tab. Glad the compound curve slits helped and can't wait to see your awesome Corsair!
Don't contact me anymore
Do I have to use wax remover after removing a low-tack tape, if I need to paint that area?
I have never had to use any remover like that. Are you getting residue from your tape?
@@FlyingSModels A little bit.
@@bassstudent4life Sometimes I'll just use a cotton swab and a little alcohol or white spirits to rub that off.
I use a thin band of tape cut with a ruler on my cutting mat and run it along the edge right up to the demarcation line. Thinner tamiya tape will have enough flex for compound curves, No need to cut on the model and ensures a straight edge using the natural edge of the tape. The corners can be cut to shape on the cutting mat and added. Then mask the remainder with the thicker stuff.
I've done that too. Works pretty well but there have been times when the curves at the rear of the canopy are tricky for the thin tape to navigate and then stay down. But it does work well, for the most part, and is definitely "safer" than cutting on the model if the modeler has any reservations about that. Appreciate the tip/advice on alternate approaches. Always good to provide the community with as many options as possible. Cheers!
Anyone any idea?...I have the Beaufighter revel 1/32...I dipped the canopys in Klear and a few weeks later the canopys went cloudy/foggy...It hadn't happened before to any of my other kits...but I cant seem to get rid of it which spoils the model actually...Ive tried dipping the canopys in windolene as someone suggested to get rid of the Klear...Not sure what to do..any help would be appreciated...Thanks
I've never had that problem with canopies but I did have trouble using Future Floor Polish as a clear sealer after many years of success. I switched over to AK Real Gauzy and have had great luck with that product.
@@FlyingSModels Thanks for the reply...I've posted this question on a few canopy videos and I'll see what folks have to say...Someone suggested polishing it out which may work but at the moment I'm not sure if it's the plastic or the Klear that is the issue...Weird, I've never had the issue before using Klear...the other canopys I've done with Klear are really clear...Good community the modeling community...Big Thanks again
lightbulb moment
One way to use those lightbulbs :) Hope it helped!
Nice job on this canopy, but why doesn't anyone do a 1/72 scale canopy like ( B-17, or aJU-88 ) Because you cannot always find pre cut masks.
Thanks, Harry. The techniques are the same no matter what the canopy and scale. Just a little more tedious for the B-17, that's for sure. I would think that Eduard would make masks for both the 17 and 88.
Wait...you painted olive drab over black on the canopy frame, and the black 'rivets' were still visible? How?
Since those were recessed rivets, I painted a light coat of OD over the black and didn't put a lot of paint in those rivet holes.
@@FlyingSModels And here I thought they were raised rivets. Perception isn't my strongest feature, LOL. Thanks for the reply.
@@TheSeanBampton kind of looked that way, didn’t they?
Mmm 🤔 interesting 🧐
Yep, just one approach to do the job.
What are you using for an airbrush
I'm currently using a Badger Velocity Renegade. I think I have a link to it in the video description if you want to check it out.
@@FlyingSModels
Sure that would be great used to have a Badger 150 but it died so I would need to get another airbrush
Looking for decent quality without ridiculous price
@@jimr7154 Here's the one I'm using. Good brush. I think I like it better than my old Tamiya one. Not too bad on price either: amzn.to/37wuYcz
Why don't you do another one on the more detailed one on a ju88 canopy or something like a B29 canopy a P-51 so simply.
I could but the process would just be the same. Cutting each square window one at a time. I thought it might not be such a "quick" tip if I did one of those. But you are right, other canopies are more time consuming and complex. This video was just to show the process as some folks had asked about it in comments to previous videos. Cheers!
Now do the canopies for a 1/72 B17 lol
I just use Elmer's glue
Hahaha...just a little more time consuming for sure!
wait what?
Piotrek Szczepanski I was assuming Adam was talking about the glue he used to attach the canopy/windscreen. I don’t think I want to try masking with Elmers, although I remember as a kid using it to make a “skin” by spreading it on my palm, letting it dry, and peeling it up...haha.
@@FlyingSModels lok makes sense now i also did the same thing.
@@FlyingSModels no I mask with it. Very easy
How easy, could you use a bigger canopy? Nothing wrong with instructions here but this isn't so easy on 1/72
I use the same techniques for all of my canopies. I don't go into detail but I think you can see the results in this and other 1/72 video builds I have up on the channel: ruclips.net/video/ICFMqUqBUKo/видео.html
@@FlyingSModels nice work on the mustang. I'm not disagreeing just saying it can be very hard to do this with some models 2 examples bf110 and ju88 in 1/72. The less panels there are the easier it is like the mustang or even a me262. 👍
Totally understand. Just takes more time. Always good to have options like buying an aftermarket mask set. The good thing about the 110 and Ju-88's, though, is that most of the panels are square and easier to cut than the ones with compound curves. Just a lesson in patience, though. Cheers!
Now mask a 1/144 Stuka canopy
Hahaha...That's a challenge. Send me the kit and I'm on it...lol!
Why do all these masking videos show a simple to mask modern fighter canopy , what about 1/72 and 1/144 scale ww2 canopies huh ???
For me, it's because it's about showing the technique that can be applied to any model. I have used the same techniques for the 1/72 build videos that are up here on the channel.
FROG tape is the same thing but you get 50 times the tape for the money.
I haven't had a good of luck with Frog tape (and similar brands) in getting crisp demarcation lines. Maybe they have some new stuff out there that I haven't tried, though.
That is a HUGE P-51 canopy. Easy to tape off and paint. How about trying a multi-framed canopy in 1/72 scale. Not as easy as he makes it!
I've done the same thing on the multi-framed windscreens for the various 1/72 builds I have up on the channel. Works well in all scales.