FineScale Modeler Scale Model Basics: 5 mistakes to avoid with clear parts
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- Опубликовано: 30 июл 2024
- Welcome to FineScale Modeler Scale Model Basics: 5 mistakes to avoid with clear parts! In this episode, Tim Kidwell talks about ways to protect and take care of your clear plastic parts.
00:00 Opening and intro
00:20 How clear plastic parts are packaged
02:29 Keeping parts contained and scratch-free
04:12 Plastic parts can be brittle, how to not break them
07:22 Don't force it
08:42 Don't clear coat
10:05 What NOT to use when attaching clear parts
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Развлечения
Excellent video. Thanks.
Thanks for watching!
Elmer's makes a clear PVA now and it is really nice. It's clear in the bottle and dries crystal clear. It's also easy to remove if needed.
Great tip! Thank you.
No5, that's why Tamiya makes multipurpose cement (clear) for clear parts such as canopy.
Bob Smith Super Gold will not fog clear parts if you want to use ca glue.
One thing I do to remove clear parts from the sprue is use a hobby knife. I heat up a bit and very gently remove it
Right Tim, rules to live by when working with plastic.
Now I have to go shovel snow from the driveway and sidewalk.
Another great show Tim! Your fixes and suggestions are always spot on. Some may be old school to veterans, but your shows are a refreshing reminder of the dos and don'ts of plastic modeling from a top notch source.
Hopefully I am not out of line for suggesting, but how about a series on "late in construction modeling mistakes" and how to possibly fix or correct them. Like spilling Tamiya ExtaThin Cement or CA glue on a late stag or done paint job, or maybe decals that desolve and how to replace them? The point is, between you, Aaron and other contributors... I'm sure you've seen it all and I for one, would love to pick your brains for better and easy ideas.
Thanks for your kind words, David, and the suggestions. Many of those could be videos all by themselves. I'll talk to the team and see what we can come up with. -TK
wonderful video series.
forget the ones with music playing.
I am here to learn and in this case words are worth more than pictures.
thank you thank you. clear and concise
good vid..also the cutting mat is class too
Thanks!
Estupendo. Pero sugiero una mejora en su escenario, pongan luces led cálidas al estante con las maquetas de fondo 😉
Oh, i almost forgot. Thats a nice A6 Intruder with wingtip speed brakes deployed open. One of my favorite attack aircraft.
Thanks! It's a new 1/72 scale Trumpeter kit built by reviewer Paul Boyer. You can read his review here: finescale.com/product-info/kit-reviews/2024/02/workbench-review-trumpeter-172-scale-a-6a-intruder-plastic-model-kit
@FineScaleModelermagazine
I super jealous as I want that model. Timing to do a little shopping.
I learned the hard way....( ruined a couple of canopies )NOW I use Micro Krystal clear everytime...best on the market. It takes a bit of time to start to dry and bond but its worth it and rubber tight fitting gloves are a must!! 😊
Ha! This video came out two weeks too late for me. I snapped my Corsair canopy in half the way you described. I know clear plastic is brittle but couldn't help myself trying to make it fit just a bit better. Lesson learned the hard way.
Sorry to hear that! Hope you were able to get a replacement.
@FineScaleModelermagazine Yes, I was able to locate a vacuum formed canopy. Had to modify it and the fuselage to make it work, but got it done! I'm happy with the result.
Thank you! Great subject covering and tips.
Glad it was helpful!
Gloss Mod Podge also works very well for larger clear parts.
That's a great tip, Calvin. Thanks for sharing! -TK
I use a cheap PVA glue that cures transparent and stays flexible. Not only to glue clear parts in place, but also as masking fluid.
Great tips Tim! I use a razor saw and single blade nippers for removal from the sprue and G-S Hypo Cement to attach clear parts. The single blade nippers do not pinch the plastic, and as you demonstrated, the saw is ideal for long attachment points. In my experience, the Hypo cement dries "clearer" than other adhesives designed for use with clear parts.
Great video. I have some experience building models but its always great to be reminded of the right way to do things.
Thank you and thanks for watching!
Nice tips. Thanks for sharing.
Thanks for watching!
So cool.
I use watch crystal glue for securing clear parts on kits.
We've never used that. We'll have to give it a try.
@@FineScaleModelermagazine MicroMark sells tubes
I speak from not having cracked a kit open yet, but watching builders applying the extra thin cement in a big 'dab' and let capillary action distribute the liquid along a join, I always thought that any overflow onto the surface of the parts would affect the plastic (regular parts - not clear parts).
Granted those parts will be painted and any visible marks covered, but as it's designed to weld the plastic, any excess cement that spread across a surface rather than along a join, would still damage that surface.
I saw a lot of speeches but the demonstration of how to cut it perfectly. My life is short for the right moment so I run away from this video. But still thanks.
i used plastic cement on a clear part, mostly fine but i think there was a tiny bit on my finger and theres a small cloud at one edge and a print on a coloured part next to it. Is there any way to clear this up? (pardon the pun), would it perhaps polish out??
Some of the Oderless CA (aka Super Glues) will not fog clear parts. If you accidentally get a finger print in the clear part, some of the oderless CA's can be removed with careful polishing with a product like PlasticX from Meguiar's.
I use es 6000 Love that stuff
VO: "When you want to make sure that windshield stays put, go industrial, go E6000." We've never tried it, but it looks like it would do the trick. We'll take a look.
@@FineScaleModelermagazine I'm Sorry it is e6000 I just use a toothpick to apply it
Tim, nice vid. I was hoping you would get into clear parts repair, i.e. polishing out scratches, etc. Maybe next time.
Make sure to come back this Friday ...
Have you ever heard about "dry-brushing". In case you haven't it involves removing most of the paint from a paintbrush before applying it to the model; the same method is to be used when applying Tamiyas extra thin cement. You remove so much of the glue from the brush that you're not even sure there is any glue left on there at all, then you apply it to the model. Not only does this lessen the problems with ghostseams, it makes it much easier to use it to glue clear parts without crazing. And that carzing problem does not only go for clear parts, it goes for the entire model if you are one of those people who prefers not using primers.
I've managed to ruin a few parts with saw marks 😵💫
You'll want to swing back next week for that SMB. We'll talk about that.
I learned hard way, DO NOT CUT clear parts out of bag or off sprue till your ready to test fit & use them.
Wont loose them, wont wreck them...
I was in a hobby shop and the woman who owned it corrected me when i said Sprue. She said you mean "Parts Tree"? Actually theyre called both but most commonly called Sprues..Know -it- alls annoy the heck out of me.
Ahh yes, one of those things where there is the industry technical term, the common consumer vernacular, and regional variations too; RST, Runner, Sprue, Tree.