Great video! Inexpensive diamond needle files work great for sanding the nubs off PE parts. They remove material on the forward and back stroke and won't snag and bend the PE part like steel files can.
Good thing i've gotten over my fear of PE, thry aren't that dreadful, just need a little more patience due to butterfingers lol. Oh and that shirt rocks!
I found this video/tutorial very interesting and useful. I was wondering if you have already done one on how to cut, mask and paint vac-u-form clears or possibly if you could post one on this topic. Thank you and forgive my bad English.
I have yet to tackle a model with PE but look forward to trying one someday (soon I hope), Those are all EXCELLENT tips and address the issues I hear people complaining about PE. Thanks!
I've been using E6000 to attach larger parts like metal barrels. I may try it on some PE as well. It claims to adhere to any material, and while it was originally a construction adhesive, it comes in "hobby sized" tube now.
Another great video! I didn't know you could use liquid model cement on these parts, so I learned a valuable tip today-thank you. I've always relied on super glue or clear varnish. By the way, if you're looking for a fun addition to your modeling gear, don't forget to check out the 'Don't Feed the Carpet Monster!' T-shirt in my online shop! (Shameless plug, I know!) 😜 Have a great weekend! -David
Another adhesive for those parts that might be subject to some flexing, such as walkways, is clear canopy cement. If you get too much, let it dry and then hold the part from moving and peel the excess away. If it isn't quite right it can be removed and, after peeling off the old adhesive, reattached a second time.
I have literally just started using photo etch and resin parts, my first impression is that by being slow and methodical makes the process of cutting components of off PE (and not loosing them) far easier than I thought it would be, I used the same technique for cutting them off the sprue as you described, using a rocking motion that makes a very precise and clean cut, I do like the “Post-It” idea 💡 I think I will give that a try, anything that makes it easier to not loose parts has to be a good idea, but I am not so sure about the “Zip-Lock” bag approach is for me, I already use spectacles 👓 due to diminishing eyesight and the extra plastic bag might obscure the cutting point of the item I am removing, it is a good idea, just not for myself, but I am sure it will work for the vast majority of PE users.
Great tips Aaron! I personally prefer the Xuron PE nippers as I have little or no clean-up afterwards on the removed parts. I have also recently come to appreciate Ammo by Mig Ultra Glue for attaching PE parts as it allows some time for positioning and will not fog clear parts nearby.
Thank you Aaron. The sticky area of Post-It notes are good for placing your removed parts as well. The pesky things otherwise have a tendency to get lost if you just leave them on your work area. I like Ultra-Glue for attaching PE - especially if there is a good amount of surface to glue. It's easier to position the part and then clean off any surplus glue with a paint brush.
And now an episode about repairing/shaping babbitt metal parts that come deformed. I learned some the hard way. For thin parts, a lighter is enough for example.
Pro tip: I'm not a pro but here's a tip. You guys that have ladies getting their nails done, get the files. They can't legally reuse them for sanitary reasons and they will gladly give them to you. They usually have two grits on each side and you can cut them too whatever shape you want.
You can get lacquer thinner at your local hardware store. Every brand has its own proprietary mix, but basically it is a paint thinner/stripper that can dissolve paints up to and including lacquers.
There are wax pencils that are good for picking up small parts. The room can't be too cool, though, because the wax has to be soft to be tacky. The biggest problem I have is with essential tremors -- involuntary shaking of my dominant hand caused by an inherited nervous disorder. Any advice on how to place PE parts more accurately with this condition would be welcome.
A wax pencil will work, too, and we definitely employ them around the FSM workshop. As for your tremors, a lot of modelers suffer from hand shakes, so it is not as uncommon as some people may think. There are a couple of things you can do: First, do not place your PE part while holding the model in one hand and your wax pencil/tweezers in the other. Make sure the model is positioned on a stable surface and the only thing moving is the tool with the PE part. Second, try to get the most comfortable angle for placing the PE part. If you're uncomfortable--twisted, contorted, hunched, etc.--you're going to tire quicker and be more stressed, which will exacerbate your tremor. Third, use your free hand to steady the hand you're holding the tool and part with. This could mean cupping your hand/wrist with your free hand or using your free hand as a guide near the end of the tool where you're going to place the part. Fourth, use a rest for the hand holding the tool. This can be as simple as a rolled hand or body towel on your workbench surface, or, if you need more height, a block of wood with pad or rolled towel on top of it. Hope these suggestions help!
![I.N "HALLUCINATION" | [Stray Kids : SKZ-PLAYER]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/n5B5q1Hwt_U/mqdefault.jpg)
Good stuff. I do about all of that. But my pain is attaching PE to PE. Especially the stuff that can’t be soldered.
Very helpful tips. Using the sticky note tip was the best one. I would never have thought of that.
Glad it was helpful!
Gotta thank you.. there were a couple of really great tips that I'd never heard of (like the post-it note) and will now be using.
Glad it was helpful!
Awesome! Glad we could help!
Very nice, realy the pick up tip with tooth pick an blue tac.
Keep these tips coming FSM, its great ti share the know how.
More to come!
Vinegar etches the PE helps glue better
Great video! Inexpensive diamond needle files work great for sanding the nubs off PE parts. They remove material on the forward and back stroke and won't snag and bend the PE part like steel files can.
Thank you! And your file comment is right on.
Good thing i've gotten over my fear of PE, thry aren't that dreadful, just need a little more patience due to butterfingers lol.
Oh and that shirt rocks!
Great tips, especially for those that enjoy building those Metal Earth kits.
Thank you I’ve just gotten a few kits with pe and have been looking for some tips!! You did that.
You're welcome!
Good stuff, Aaron! Thanks for sharing!
Thanks for watching!
I found this video/tutorial very interesting and useful. I was wondering if you have already done one on how to cut, mask and paint vac-u-form clears or possibly if you could post one on this topic. Thank you and forgive my bad English.
I have yet to tackle a model with PE but look forward to trying one someday (soon I hope), Those are all EXCELLENT tips and address the issues I hear people complaining about PE. Thanks!
Simple tutorial, great tips! 👍
I prefer epoxies for attaching pe, more working time and doesn't become brittle, like cyano.
I've been using E6000 to attach larger parts like metal barrels. I may try it on some PE as well. It claims to adhere to any material, and while it was originally a construction adhesive, it comes in "hobby sized" tube now.
Another great video! I didn't know you could use liquid model cement on these parts, so I learned a valuable tip today-thank you. I've always relied on super glue or clear varnish. By the way, if you're looking for a fun addition to your modeling gear, don't forget to check out the 'Don't Feed the Carpet Monster!' T-shirt in my online shop! (Shameless plug, I know!) 😜
Have a great weekend!
-David
Sticky note tip is BRILLIANT!! Why didn't I know that?
Thank you!
Great tips😊
Thanks! 😊
I'm glad you left that blooper in the video, we've ALL been there. Good tips too.
I wouldn't call it a blooper. I call it a good demonstration of what can happen
As usual, great tips.
Glad you like them!
Thanks! Very helpful!
That ziplock bag is a great tip that I will use for clipping plastic parts too
Excellent! Glad to help.
Very nice tips on using photo etch parts. Thanks for sharing.
Thank you. You're welcome!
Another adhesive for those parts that might be subject to some flexing, such as walkways, is clear canopy cement. If you get too much, let it dry and then hold the part from moving and peel the excess away. If it isn't quite right it can be removed and, after peeling off the old adhesive, reattached a second time.
Thanks for those tips appreciate it
Happy to help!
I have literally just started using photo etch and resin parts, my first impression is that by being slow and methodical makes the process of cutting components of off PE (and not loosing them) far easier than I thought it would be, I used the same technique for cutting them off the sprue as you described, using a rocking motion that makes a very precise and clean cut, I do like the “Post-It” idea 💡 I think I will give that a try, anything that makes it easier to not loose parts has to be a good idea, but I am not so sure about the “Zip-Lock” bag approach is for me, I already use spectacles 👓 due to diminishing eyesight and the extra plastic bag might obscure the cutting point of the item I am removing, it is a good idea, just not for myself, but I am sure it will work for the vast majority of PE users.
Great tips Aaron! I personally prefer the Xuron PE nippers as I have little or no clean-up afterwards on the removed parts. I have also recently come to appreciate Ammo by Mig Ultra Glue for attaching PE parts as it allows some time for positioning and will not fog clear parts nearby.
Thanks for the great tips.
Our pleasure!
Thank you Aaron. The sticky area of Post-It notes are good for placing your removed parts as well. The pesky things otherwise have a tendency to get lost if you just leave them on your work area.
I like Ultra-Glue for attaching PE - especially if there is a good amount of surface to glue. It's easier to position the part and then clean off any surplus glue with a paint brush.
Thank you for the advice wasn't going to start my first PE kit with out learning about them first.
Good tips.
Glad you think so!
Great presentation. Thank you.
Very good information, Aaron. I always struggle with PE.
Thanks, Chad!
thank you for the tips! (also i love your sailor moon shirt :)) )
👍👍 Space 1999 Eagle model in background.
I heard that PVA glue works well for photoetch, especially any parts that need to go on clear parts, as well.
The Sailor Moon shirt is fire!!!
And now an episode about repairing/shaping babbitt metal parts that come deformed. I learned some the hard way. For thin parts, a lighter is enough for example.
Great tips
Thanks for watching!
2:44 bag trick os great
Instead of sanding you can also use a metal etching primer. Mr Metal Primer, Tamiya Metal primer, and others.
Definitely another route you can take. Good share!
Pro tip: I'm not a pro but here's a tip. You guys that have ladies getting their nails done, get the files. They can't legally reuse them for sanitary reasons and they will gladly give them to you. They usually have two grits on each side and you can cut them too whatever shape you want.
What is lacquer thinner? Is that the same as crylic thinners or the acrylic lacquer paint thinner aka Tamiya or Mr.Hobby?
You can get lacquer thinner at your local hardware store. Every brand has its own proprietary mix, but basically it is a paint thinner/stripper that can dissolve paints up to and including lacquers.
There are wax pencils that are good for picking up small parts. The room can't be too cool, though, because the wax has to be soft to be tacky.
The biggest problem I have is with essential tremors -- involuntary shaking of my dominant hand caused by an inherited nervous disorder. Any advice on how to place PE parts more accurately with this condition would be welcome.
A wax pencil will work, too, and we definitely employ them around the FSM workshop.
As for your tremors, a lot of modelers suffer from hand shakes, so it is not as uncommon as some people may think. There are a couple of things you can do: First, do not place your PE part while holding the model in one hand and your wax pencil/tweezers in the other. Make sure the model is positioned on a stable surface and the only thing moving is the tool with the PE part. Second, try to get the most comfortable angle for placing the PE part. If you're uncomfortable--twisted, contorted, hunched, etc.--you're going to tire quicker and be more stressed, which will exacerbate your tremor. Third, use your free hand to steady the hand you're holding the tool and part with. This could mean cupping your hand/wrist with your free hand or using your free hand as a guide near the end of the tool where you're going to place the part. Fourth, use a rest for the hand holding the tool. This can be as simple as a rolled hand or body towel on your workbench surface, or, if you need more height, a block of wood with pad or rolled towel on top of it. Hope these suggestions help!
I also use vinegar to wash the p/e
Also a viable option.
The whole reason i got really good with replicating parts is using tweezers with photoetch.😂
I use masking tape rather than a post it note.
Looked like parts from USS texas
Instead of post it notes just use masking tape. Excellent ideas.
Cut pe parts on a thick piece of tempered glass.
That works, too, but anything hard should prevent deformation.
3.06 ... file, not sand.
I bet you lose pieces
Not often.
I must be tired but Aaron's accent sounds American and Australian lol.....i am tired..
You are not tired ... it is both Australian and American.