Great information! I might suggest: Have the parent/adult watch the presentation with the young modeler. Good bonding time and that way the adult knows what to look for also.
Good video. I am a muzzleloader gunbuilder as well as a modeler. I anneal brass and solver daily in my work. A few tips. I always quench in water. It won't harden, quenching only does that with steel. Anybody who works with metal knows, ALL metal in the shop can be hot metal, eventually you will grab a hot piece you thought had cooled. Just quench the brass and keep working Second, if you anneal brass and bend it a few times, it will reharden and might need to be reannealed more than once. Thanks again for a useful video
I left the roof of the M1070 tractor cab under a pile of heavy books for a week hoping to get it to flatten out to no avail. This video will come in handy for future builds. thank you
Good technique with the heater... I did try a torch on a piece of brass grid to anneal it, and exactly what you showed happened - it burnt away. :) Funny in retrospect, not so much when it happened. Now I know how it's done, thank you!
Thank you, and great question! The simple answer is you don't. Heating the metal will burn the paint away. Part of the problem we find with pre-painted PE parts that you have to shape is that the paint can crack or flake off. Pre-painted PE is a good idea and has it's place, but it also has it's drawbacks.
It will help if you need to solder a curve because the annealed part will hold its shape better. But if you're just soldering a 90-degree corner, there's no reason to anneal the metal.
My oven goes to 550 degrees. Can I put the entire sheet on a sheet pan and anneal it that way? My plan is to put the sheet in first. Then turn the oven on. When it reaches temperature, turn it off and allow it to cool before removing.
Great information! I might suggest: Have the parent/adult watch the presentation with the young modeler. Good bonding time and that way the adult knows what to look for also.
Good video. I am a muzzleloader gunbuilder as well as a modeler. I anneal brass and solver daily in my work. A few tips.
I always quench in water. It won't harden, quenching only does that with steel. Anybody who works with metal knows, ALL metal in the shop can be hot metal, eventually you will grab a hot piece you thought had cooled. Just quench the brass and keep working
Second, if you anneal brass and bend it a few times, it will reharden and might need to be reannealed more than once.
Thanks again for a useful video
Silver. DOH!
I left the roof of the M1070 tractor cab under a pile of heavy books for a week hoping to get it to flatten out to no avail. This video will come in handy for future builds. thank you
We're glad it helped!
Apply some soap to the brass before heating. Apply heat until the soap turns black which is an indicator of the correct temperature.
Good technique with the heater... I did try a torch on a piece of brass grid to anneal it, and exactly what you showed happened - it burnt away. :) Funny in retrospect, not so much when it happened. Now I know how it's done, thank you!
You're welcome! Thanks for watching.
Good, succinct explanation. Enough said.
Thank you!
I didn't know this was possible, thank you for the video.
We're happy to help!
Wow, what an eye opener !
Glad to help!
Nice tutorial!
Thanks! We're glad you liked it.
Fantastic video, wish I had known this before trying to do the curve in the Panzer III turret armor.
Thank you! Hope this can help with future models!
Are you touching the heating element or holding just above?
The photo-etched metal part is touching the heating element.
awesome video, much appreciated! and to think i was trying all this time annealing with a candle and getting frustrated it "doesn't work"
Thank you! We're glad we were able to help.
Great tip
Glad it was helpful!
Great video, but one question: how do you anneal prepainted photoetch like what Eduard provides in its kits?
Thank you, and great question! The simple answer is you don't. Heating the metal will burn the paint away. Part of the problem we find with pre-painted PE parts that you have to shape is that the paint can crack or flake off. Pre-painted PE is a good idea and has it's place, but it also has it's drawbacks.
Great Video.
Thanks!
Stupid question. Should I anneal the entire sheet of parts. Or should only anneal the individual part when it comes time to use that part?
Good question! Anneal individual parts as you're ready to use them.
question: will this help in soldering parts as well? as a preparation process?
It will help if you need to solder a curve because the annealed part will hold its shape better. But if you're just soldering a 90-degree corner, there's no reason to anneal the metal.
My oven goes to 550 degrees. Can I put the entire sheet on a sheet pan and anneal it that way? My plan is to put the sheet in first. Then turn the oven on. When it reaches temperature, turn it off and allow it to cool before removing.
Hi Vince: To anneal brass, you'll need to get between 600 and 800 degrees. We would not recommend you try to use your oven.
Lay the small piece upon a thicker piece & heat the thick piece from below with the flame. This way the small part won't be overheated.
Great video thanks
Glad you enjoyed it
Great video! I am now well informed. More informative and demonstrative that some other annealing videos put out by famous phptpetch companies.
Thank you! Glad you found it helpful!
Thank you
You're welcome!
Great instructional video.
Question: Can this be done with a heat gun as opposed to a torch?
Thanks! No. You're looking to get the metal near that 600-degree range and a heat gun won't get the metal to that point.
Why not use an oven and put the entire photoetch sheet on a cookie pan and put it in an oven for 400 degrees for a period of time?
An oven won't get the parts hot enough to anneal them.
In the last minute or so of this video, you sounded just like a Scoutmaster.
Be prepared.
Just a comment
for the algorithm
Do not try this with pre-painted photo etch! Don’t ask me how i know this.
Exactly!