If there was a university who did a degree course on assembling models and creating dioramas, you would definetly have to be the course tutor. I can't think of anyone else who constantly provides the skills and knowledge about this hobby in such a succinct and informative way as you do David. Your channel is one of the best on the whole of RUclips.
PLASMO-I have been building models for 30 years now and I have learned something new, or a different way of doing something every time I watch your videos, please keep them comming and great work.
Plasmo I have to say your videos are some of the best out there! You definitely can tell you absolutely love this hobby because your work shows it in every build you do! I found this and most videos you do are very helpful indeed! Thanks for sharing your fine skills with the rest of the world!
I'm mainly a railway modeler, and have built a lot of PE/White metal Wagon and loccomotive kits. I go with the others who say that you must heat the joint with the flux on it first, and add the solder to it, then pull the tip of the iron allong the joint and the tin will follow when hot enough. This way you can make much neater joints, and enables you to solder joints that will be in sight, without unsightly blobs of solder. Soldering as much as you can on PE parts will make the end result stronger and more durable, any CA joint will fail over time, a good solder joint will last longer than the plastic of the model itself. I'm unfamiliar with the type of flux you use, the liquid resin. But it must have some advantages but also disadvantages over the type of flux I use, which is dilluted phosphoric acid. The main advantage of resin flux is the non-corrosive nature of it, so it doesn't need a very thorough cleaning procedure. But when I compare the way the tin flows in the video with the way tin flows with the phosphoric acid flux I use I conclude that the tin flows much better with the acid flux, and just leaves a very thin film of tin on the surface, that's because the acid flux etches all dirt of the metal including the oxide layer. But it keeps on etching into the metal so after soldering so I wash the parts with cleaning soda (sodium carbonate) to neutralize the acid, but baking soda will work equally well, then I wash the parts under the running tap to flush all residu away, using a toothbrush and an old paintbrush to go into the difficult to reach corners. A glassfibre pen is also a great tool to remove excess tin from vissible area's, it removes the tin very good without damaging the brass. And a warning when soldering on parts that have been glued with CA, the fumes are very irritating and toxic, as they contain cyanide, one of the worst chemical weapons that have been used during WW1, so don't breath those and don't get them in your eyes, that's very painfull as I can tell by experience.
Only one warning....it is very easy to overheat smaller parts and even burn yourself quite severely when handling the parts. Brass is an excellent conductor. I usually keep a wet rag and a bowl of ice water to cool parts after soldering them. This is because I have soldered one side before, only to lose the other because the heat reflowed the solder. Great video as usual.
Hi David, I've watched all these videos on soldering and have failed, I even bought new equipment. You've video was really, really helpful... as have been all your other videos. Thank you!
A very good Tutorial. I want to use the soldering technique for some of my pe-parts for my FW190. After i watched your tutorial i know how to do it, thank you.
Awesome!!! I subbed! I've done circuit boards, LED lights but never thought to solder my photo etched parts! Well I will from now on! Great tutorial friend.
Thanks David you make soldering such small parts look easy . I'm all all thumb when it come 2 handling these parts. I now feel confident now 2 be able 2 soldering my own photo etched parts.
Excellent David, I stumbled across one of aircraft builds, not only enjoying what you create, but also your choice of background music, some of which I have down loaded. Great Stuff!
A nice little video. A couple of things I would do slightly differently. I would use the small chisel tip as my main tip not the pointed one.Reason. It delivers heat quicker to the brass allowing faster solder coverage with less "wiping" of the tip on the edge of the brass, as shown here the brass is not heating fast and the solder not running with the flux without continual "wiping". Also cleaning the tip more frequently to ensure even whetting and remove any carbon or residue buildup. And for finishing do not clean the tip, leave a coating of solder on it when finished. Clean it by using the sponge before the next job. Never file, scrape or reshape a tip.
I like that bending tool, works a treat, as for the soldering, I was always taught to heat the materials to be joined then add solder to the work, however, that was for copper pipes, plumbing and building work etc Heating the materials like etched brass can distort the work piece if you get it too hot, also this is not under any stress so this method works well and won't distort your workpiece as heat is minimal. Looking at how you did it it looks faster too this way as your not having to heat up cold parts every time you solder, just my opinion I'm no expert by any means, great vid thank you
i guess Im randomly asking but does anyone know a tool to log back into an instagram account?? I somehow lost my login password. I love any assistance you can give me.
@Knox Charlie i really appreciate your reply. I found the site through google and Im in the hacking process atm. I see it takes a while so I will reply here later with my results.
Parádní video. Moc díky za návod. Teď se můžu konečně pustit do vlastní stavby leptů. To nanášení kalafuny štětcem a lepení lepidlem před samotným pájením jsou skvělé tipy. Ušetří to spoustu starostí a nervů.
If you're soldering a part that will be visible and you'd like to keep the solder from flowing all over the place, you can restrict where it flows by drawing with a sharpie first...the solder won't cross the sharpie line.
Добрый вечер! Как всегда отличное у Вас видео получилось. Познавательное. делайте по больше таких видео. Удачи Вам и творческих успехов. с уважением Максим.
You still can use the soild rosin and dissolve it in alcohol, Isopropanol works great. The liquid flux, most of the time, isn't much else. You can even control the conistency by adding more IPA or letting it evaporate a bit. Done this for years and hat good luck with it. Maybe you can give it a try. And I really like your channel, great vids and many useful tips. Learned a lot from you, thanks. Měj se!
Большое спасибо! Очень полезное видео! Скорее хочется попробовать ваши советы на практике. Thank you very much! Very helpful video! Would rather try your advice.
Hmm... I'm unable to determine if half-eaten watermelon is a model or real. PLASMO is so good, you could tell me it was scratch built based on an old Monogram model of a Buick and I'd believe it :)
A great and interesting video indeed. Many thanks for sharing this video tutorial of how to solder PE Parts. It was very useful and I will keep it handy just in case I ever need to look back at it again. By the way Tigers don't eat watermelon, but I do so look out! LOL Have fun with your next project and many thanks again for sharing, Joe
So perfect! So useful and simple to understand! I often watch your videos again and again. Your mastering is so fantastic. I just try to do my best to repeat your technic. I know that you enjoy building planes.... I;d like to see your tanks building in 1:35 scale. May be WWII or modern. Best wishes!
Muy instructivo, la mejor parte....El porque de la pasta de soldar (tanto liquida como pasta), por fin entendi para que servia. Gracias y felicitaciones por el video MUY INSTRUCTIVO saludos
Great video! One idea: to avoid covering some area with solder, just apply there some lacquer. Easiest way is to use a simple permanent marker pen. For example, your hexagonal component lid soldering would be much easier to limit the solder flow.
I was taught by my grandfather that you always heat the work, NOT the solder! This is because you want the metal to wick the solder into the joint. Flux is only supposed to assist in this process. When done properly, the solder is fused into the metal. It's probably not that important for this type of model making, since you do not require the joint to be strong, but it is something to consider, especially when attempting to teach proper technique.
That's right. The flux also marks the area where the solder goes, you heat the metal and there will be just enough solder to fix the metals on exactly the right places.
No. It would be much easier to solder if you preheat the part and then apply the solder right to the part. Not to the iron tip. This kind of solder has flux in it already, but he burns it up before he even gets to the part he is soldering. Really, try it the other way and you will see.
You are right, But i worked before making amplifiers and speed is one of our elements pre heat or not if its soldered firmly it will last a great amount of time, But since this is "Scale Models" it is not necessary. Most modelers use glue instead and that is already strong then this method is far more stronger. But i think common sense rarely exist in your kind. I mean do you really need to comment something like that on a scale modelling video. LMAO
Hi, may I add that in a number of small previously bent parts construction, soldering a joint line from inside the part can avoid cleanup and so sanding away detail from the soft brass. Kind regards, Dave Porter UK
Thank you for this video. I've always wanted to try this (instead of the usual superglue methods) - but was just too nervous to actually do it. Now that I have seen you do it, I just HAVE to try!
I use zd-99 solder station. This is cheapest what I found. :-D www.conrad.com/ce/en/product/588415/Soldering-station-analogue-48-W-Basetech-ZD-99-150-up-to-450-C
Been thinking about having a go at soldering water melons...I mean photo etch (sorry got distracted there lol) Always been put off at the idea, but your tutorial demystified the process and I'm confident I will now be able to build models as good as you. 🤔😂
Interesting video. Can you please advise what brand is the liquid Flux you were using and is it an acid free version or do you have to clean any residue off after soldering?
The 'go-to' for modelling advice. David, have you ever used Fryolux 'solder paint' - a mix of solder and flux that can be painted on and soldered? I would like your opinion.
You might want to try limiting where you put the flux rather than flooding the area, so perhaps look for a flux between the two types that you showed, and paint it on the inside rather than the outside, and don't be frightened of the larger tips, I always use a hoof when ever possible , it holds a reservoir of solder so gives a much more uniform thickness. the chisel point is also good for soldering edges. Also wipe your tip each time you charge it with solder. Soldering is a matter of confidence which comes with practice.
Thanks for another great how to video. Last time I did any soldering was doing a crows foot on a WW 2 German tank which was 30 years ago? It came out okay, meaning I was happy with the result, but.... Didn't know soldering guns now come with different tips and liquid flux even existed.
If there was a university who did a degree course on assembling models and creating dioramas, you would definetly have to be the course tutor. I can't think of anyone else who constantly provides the skills and knowledge about this hobby in such a succinct and informative way as you do David. Your channel is one of the best on the whole of RUclips.
I'm 72 and learned something new today. Thank you!
PLASMO-I have been building models for 30 years now and I have learned something new, or a different way of doing something every time I watch your videos, please keep them comming and great work.
I just love the tiger climbing the watermelon at the end of the video! Thanks for the tip!
Plasmo I have to say your videos are some of the best out there! You definitely can tell you absolutely love this hobby because your work shows it in every build you do! I found this and most videos you do are very helpful indeed! Thanks for sharing your fine skills with the rest of the world!
I'm mainly a railway modeler, and have built a lot of PE/White metal Wagon and loccomotive kits.
I go with the others who say that you must heat the joint with the flux on it first, and add the solder to it, then pull the tip of the iron allong the joint and the tin will follow when hot enough.
This way you can make much neater joints, and enables you to solder joints that will be in sight, without unsightly blobs of solder.
Soldering as much as you can on PE parts will make the end result stronger and more durable, any CA joint will fail over time, a good solder joint will last longer than the plastic of the model itself.
I'm unfamiliar with the type of flux you use, the liquid resin.
But it must have some advantages but also disadvantages over the type of flux I use, which is dilluted phosphoric acid.
The main advantage of resin flux is the non-corrosive nature of it, so it doesn't need a very thorough cleaning procedure.
But when I compare the way the tin flows in the video with the way tin flows with the phosphoric acid flux I use I conclude that the tin flows much better with the acid flux, and just leaves a very thin film of tin on the surface, that's because the acid flux etches all dirt of the metal including the oxide layer.
But it keeps on etching into the metal so after soldering so I wash the parts with cleaning soda (sodium carbonate) to neutralize the acid, but baking soda will work equally well, then I wash the parts under the running tap to flush all residu away, using a toothbrush and an old paintbrush to go into the difficult to reach corners.
A glassfibre pen is also a great tool to remove excess tin from vissible area's, it removes the tin very good without damaging the brass.
And a warning when soldering on parts that have been glued with CA, the fumes are very irritating and toxic, as they contain cyanide, one of the worst chemical weapons that have been used during WW1, so don't breath those and don't get them in your eyes, that's very painfull as I can tell by experience.
Simple, direct and very instructive. Congratulations for your video.
Only one warning....it is very easy to overheat smaller parts and even burn yourself quite severely when handling the parts. Brass is an excellent conductor. I usually keep a wet rag and a bowl of ice water to cool parts after soldering them. This is because I have soldered one side before, only to lose the other because the heat reflowed the solder. Great video as usual.
Wonderful tip about using CA to tack the joint before soldering! Thank you my friend.
Another excellent video David. There is no end to your skills! Thanks.
The best photoetch video I have watched. Thank you. I will give it a try.
Excellent tutorial!!!
Very concise and easy to follow.
Hi David, I've watched all these videos on soldering and have failed, I even bought new equipment. You've video was really, really helpful... as have been all your other videos. Thank you!
A very good Tutorial. I want to use the soldering technique for some of my pe-parts for my FW190. After i watched your tutorial i know how to do it, thank you.
Awesome!!! I subbed! I've done circuit boards, LED lights but never thought to solder my photo etched parts! Well I will from now on! Great tutorial friend.
Could I just ask you, if you didn't use solder for your metal photo etched parts, what did you use instead ?
Thanks David you make soldering such small parts look easy . I'm all all thumb when it come 2 handling these parts. I now feel confident now 2 be able 2 soldering my own photo etched parts.
Very informative. Thank you. Now I'm going to dig out my Dad's old soldering iron, get some supplies and try it out!
Excellent David, I stumbled across one of aircraft builds, not only enjoying what you create, but also your choice of background music, some of which I have down loaded. Great Stuff!
A nice little video. A couple of things I would do slightly differently. I would use the small chisel tip as my main tip not the pointed one.Reason. It delivers heat quicker to the brass allowing faster solder coverage with less "wiping" of the tip on the edge of the brass, as shown here the brass is not heating fast and the solder not running with the flux without continual "wiping". Also cleaning the tip more frequently to ensure even whetting and remove any carbon or residue buildup. And for finishing do not clean the tip, leave a coating of solder on it when finished. Clean it by using the sponge before the next job. Never file, scrape or reshape a tip.
I like that bending tool, works a treat, as for the soldering, I was always taught to heat the materials to be joined then add solder to the work, however, that was for copper pipes, plumbing and building work etc
Heating the materials like etched brass can distort the work piece if you get it too hot, also this is not under any stress so this method works well and won't distort your workpiece as heat is minimal.
Looking at how you did it it looks faster too this way as your not having to heat up cold parts every time you solder, just my opinion I'm no expert by any means, great vid thank you
i guess Im randomly asking but does anyone know a tool to log back into an instagram account??
I somehow lost my login password. I love any assistance you can give me.
@Knox Charlie i really appreciate your reply. I found the site through google and Im in the hacking process atm.
I see it takes a while so I will reply here later with my results.
@Knox Charlie It did the trick and I now got access to my account again. I am so happy!
Thank you so much you saved my ass :D
@Jonas Ezequiel Happy to help xD
Thanks for the handy tip there. Looking forward to seeing the Tiger v watermelon build.
Parádní video. Moc díky za návod. Teď se můžu konečně pustit do vlastní stavby leptů. To nanášení kalafuny štětcem a lepení lepidlem před samotným pájením jsou skvělé tipy. Ušetří to spoustu starostí a nervů.
That was excellent always wondered why I never see anyone putting photo etch together like this now I know so again great video.
Very nice video
Hello, the fastest model builder in the world :-D Seriously, you are excellent and thanks.
Thank you I love your work as well .
Andy's Hobby Headquarters i love your videos
wow didn't expect to see you here!
Andy's Hobby Headquarters Andy i love your videos
If you're soldering a part that will be visible and you'd like to keep the solder from flowing all over the place, you can restrict where it flows by drawing with a sharpie first...the solder won't cross the sharpie line.
I was going to suggest a mask that is a great idea are there other techniques like this to use? Steven columbus michigan
From David to David.....thanks for the great video!
I didn't know you could do this...very nice video for us newbies still at the basic level of model building, Thank You.
Excellent video - thanks for the series. I find them very helpful!
Thanks so much for posting another great video. I look forward to you posting more of your videos. Thanks. Keep them coming.
Another helpful video from you PLASMO. Thank you again for sharing these great tips and information.
Когда смотришь со стороны все так просто и расслабляюще🙏🏻
Как сам начинаешь🤕😁
Красивая у Вас всегда работа👍
Добрый вечер! Как всегда отличное у Вас видео получилось. Познавательное. делайте по больше таких видео. Удачи Вам и творческих успехов. с уважением Максим.
Большое вам спасибо, и я приветствую Россию
@@idaemonplasmo david i always thought you are czech
You still can use the soild rosin and dissolve it in alcohol, Isopropanol works great. The liquid flux, most of the time, isn't much else. You can even control the conistency by adding more IPA or letting it evaporate a bit. Done this for years and hat good luck with it. Maybe you can give it a try.
And I really like your channel, great vids and many useful tips. Learned a lot from you, thanks.
Měj se!
really ? i have no idea that rosin is dissolve in IPA alcohol,, so we cut a piece of rosin and drop some IPA onto it, until it mostly dissolve ?
Should be fine, so long as there isn't a spark or a flame anywhere near you@@hl1796
"had good luck with it" is exactly what you had. I'd be surprised if you haven't ignited the IPA yet.
David,我喜歡你的教學影片，一步一步的，很清楚，背景音樂也搭配的很好，希望有朝一日也能像你一樣厲害。
Thank you David for posting this video, it was very interesting as I'am just starting to use PE upgrade parts for my Saturn 1B and Saturn V.
Greetings from Brazil...awesome video and new thecnique for me. keep up the terrific job.
Большое спасибо! Очень полезное видео! Скорее хочется попробовать ваши советы на практике.
Thank you very much! Very helpful video! Would rather try your advice.
Was a good tutorial! Nice to see what you look like too!
I learned something today! Thanks
Tnx for a great how to... Really need to get myself a soldering iron now... Have some huge pe parts coming up.
Love your videos. Great content and fun to watch.
Genuinely helpful, thank you! Terry Pratchett fan?
Finally another video! Welcome back!!
I was out only one month. funny vacation. Corsica GR20 trip
Thanks David 4 the soldering tutorial. Very helpfull!
Excellent presentation. Thank you.
Great video, makes it look quite easy.
Spot on. How do you bend very tiny bits into curves or round shapes? LIke fender hinges?
Отличное и очень познавательное видео. Спасибо! Арбуз выглядит очень аппетитно ☺
very nice video indeed, a pleasure to watch.
Very useful tips, thanks. It is good to finally match a face to the voice too.
I just want to say that I know how to do this... I learned how to solder in elementary school... You make it look deceptively easy.
Very instructive demo. Thank you
лучший канал! The best channel
Great video! I might have to pick up a soldering iron now! Also, that Tiger is coming for your watermelon!
Hmm... I'm unable to determine if half-eaten watermelon is a model or real. PLASMO is so good, you could tell me it was scratch built based on an old Monogram model of a Buick and I'd believe it :)
Very, very funny Ross! For such a meticulous artist, this seems a strange lapse on the part of Mr Plasmo
Great video. Lots of good tips and techniques. Will be subscribing!
Thanks for making yet another inspiring and useful video tutorial.
"Be careful, Tiger needs watermelon!" LOL! :-)
Hello very good video, or can we find the small bottle of liquid that I use you, I can not find on the internet
Thank you that was very informative. I learned a lot from watching your video.
Thanks was very interesting. Have tried before with a paste flux but looks like I will get some fluid and give it another go.
A great and interesting video indeed. Many thanks for sharing this video tutorial of how to solder PE Parts. It was very useful and I will keep it handy just in case I ever need to look back at it again.
By the way Tigers don't eat watermelon, but I do so look out! LOL
Have fun with your next project and many thanks again for sharing,
Joe
So perfect! So useful and simple to understand! I often watch your videos again and again. Your mastering is so fantastic. I just try to do my best to repeat your technic. I know that you enjoy building planes.... I;d like to see your tanks building in 1:35 scale. May be WWII or modern. Best wishes!
Hello from Canada. 🇨🇦 Loving your videos. Subscribed!
Muy instructivo, la mejor parte....El porque de la pasta de soldar (tanto liquida como pasta), por fin entendi para que servia.
Gracias y felicitaciones por el video MUY INSTRUCTIVO
saludos
This was really useful! Thank you so much. I wish there was a list of where to buy those strange parts, like the sheet bending apparatus.
Great video! One idea: to avoid covering some area with solder, just apply there some lacquer. Easiest way is to use a simple permanent marker pen. For example, your hexagonal component lid soldering would be much easier to limit the solder flow.
I was taught by my grandfather that you always heat the work, NOT the solder! This is because you want the metal to wick the solder into the joint. Flux is only supposed to assist in this process. When done properly, the solder is fused into the metal.
It's probably not that important for this type of model making, since you do not require the joint to be strong, but it is something to consider, especially when attempting to teach proper technique.
That is important when dealing with electronics because heating up the component too much can damage it, not an issue here
That's right. The flux also marks the area where the solder goes, you heat the metal and there will be just enough solder to fix the metals on exactly the right places.
No. It would be much easier to solder if you preheat the part and then apply the solder right to the part. Not to the iron tip. This kind of solder has flux in it already, but he burns it up before he even gets to the part he is soldering. Really, try it the other way and you will see.
It didn't :) Not for a person who does solering regulary...
You are right, But i worked before making amplifiers and speed is one of our elements pre heat or not if its soldered firmly it will last a great amount of time, But since this is "Scale Models" it is not necessary. Most modelers use glue instead and that is already strong then this method is far more stronger. But i think common sense rarely exist in your kind. I mean do you really need to comment something like that on a scale modelling video. LMAO
Nice video tutorial! Thanks! 👍
u r a gifted master. I build trains and study your technique.
Hi, may I add that in a number of small previously bent parts construction, soldering a joint line from inside the part can avoid cleanup and so sanding away detail from the soft brass. Kind regards, Dave Porter UK
Another great How-to video. Thank you.
Again, great!!! You are so skilled, man. I wish I was like you... :-)
Thanks for the video, it has definitely helped me with soldering photoetch.
What is the name of that metal bending tool? Thank you outstanding models bro!
Great video. Thanks for sharing.
Thanks David. Very good Video.
And now learning by doing
Thank you for this video. I've always wanted to try this (instead of the usual superglue methods) - but was just too nervous to actually do it. Now that I have seen you do it, I just HAVE to try!
Очень сложный и кропотливый процесс со сваркой ! Мне понравилось , однозначно Лайк !
Thanks for this video, now I understand how to soldeiring P E, thanks my friend
You are a genius man, thank so much, excelent work
good video.learn somethink.Can i know what solder you use plumbing solder core or pcb solder?
Hey there! Thanx for the video. Can you share more about the soldering station that you are using?
I use zd-99 solder station. This is cheapest what I found. :-D www.conrad.com/ce/en/product/588415/Soldering-station-analogue-48-W-Basetech-ZD-99-150-up-to-450-C
Great video as usual. I definitely learned some new techniques,thank you. Oh,and beware of the tiger lol
You’re a master.
im just a few steps away from a massive photo etch session on my model, this was perfect timing plasmo :D
cool. I hope that will be useful.
Been thinking about having a go at soldering water melons...I mean photo etch (sorry got distracted there lol)
Always been put off at the idea, but your tutorial demystified the process and I'm confident I will now be able to build models as good as you. 🤔😂
Love your work very informative nice nice and excellent !
Love your videos.
Interesting video. Can you please advise what brand is the liquid Flux you were using and is it an acid free version or do you have to clean any residue off after soldering?
The 'go-to' for modelling advice. David, have you ever used Fryolux 'solder paint' - a mix of solder and flux that can be painted on and soldered? I would like your opinion.
You might want to try limiting where you put the flux rather than flooding the area, so perhaps look for a flux between the two types that you showed, and paint it on the inside rather than the outside, and don't be frightened of the larger tips, I always use a hoof when ever possible , it holds a reservoir of solder so gives a much more uniform thickness. the chisel point is also good for soldering edges. Also wipe your tip each time you charge it with solder. Soldering is a matter of confidence which comes with practice.
Thank you very much for showing these tips...they´re very useful...great work btw :)
Thanks for another great how to video. Last time I did any soldering was doing a crows foot on a WW 2 German tank which was 30 years ago? It came out okay, meaning I was happy with the result, but.... Didn't know soldering guns now come with different tips and liquid flux even existed.
you can also get solder and flux together as a paste, apply to the joint with a brush and heat the metal till it melts, the paste does the rest
Yeeeeej finally a new video!!!!!
Nice video can i ask will soldering work on diecast cars if i strip the paint?
Thanks Dave. Can you tell me what you use to clean up the residue from the solder with
hey ur the best model maker on youtube! Could you build next a Finnish bf 109 g for the 100 year-old finland this year?
Excellent video! Thank you for that!
Please can you tell me the name of your soldering iron and the name of the flux you use Thank you, Bob UK