Please! For the love of all English speaking countries (outside of the North American continent) It’s not sodder. There’s an L in there and, (unusually), we use it!
According to OED it comes from old French “soudure,” I think the “L” got added to the spelling later by pedantic academics to reflect the Latin origin, same thing happened to “soldier” which was pronounced “sojer.”
Worked at a science center where one of the operations involved silver soldering a 100 lb assembly with 10-20 parts. The machinist/model maker used a big, very hot, oven th heat the entire assembly at one time. Then flowed the silver solder to all joints in one pass. About 5 lbs of solder. Took immense skill and was really neat to watch.
Quinn, I've done lots of normal soldering but never silver soldered. With the exception of pickling the processes are very similar. It's testament to how well you put together your series videos (A3 switcher) that I found this video to be more of a convenient reminder on how to do it as I'm pretty sure you've covered 95% of the info as you led us through the build process. We'll done.
Soldering thoughts (trained as a goldsmith in the early 2000's, mostly custom lighting for the last 18 years, lots of silver soldering, including single joints holding 400 lbs over people in an event venue): Cleaning: Sanding/scotchbrite right before flux works well. Maybe the dust carries away any skin/cutting oils, along with oxides? Comet is also excellent, the bleach really helps cut/oxidize any oils, I suspect. You can get a really good water break test result that way (credit to Robin Renzetti for that one). I like a flux mix of ~10 white flux to 1 black (it's not precise, but it's easy to add too much black, take it slow). I find it gives me just a slightly longer working time, while helping a little on oddball alloys that don't solder reliably with just white. The black works well, but as you note, makes the joint hard to read, and I find the orange flare pretty hard on my eyes if I'm doing lots of parts. Fixturing/set up: Don't fight gravity, use it! Solder will run uphill, but it is far from ideal. As Quinn notes, solder will flow towards a hotter area (I'm guessing the viscosity drops, causing it to wick in that direction?). The gold standard for a continuous joint, to my mind, is to add solder at one point and draw it from there. Once you get into adding at lots of locations, you can find you have pinholes the solder skipped. Pickle: pool 'pH down' (sodium bisulfate) works well! Broadly: If it is clean enough, and hot enough, it will solder. If it does not solder, it is not clean enough, or not hot enough. (Too hot gets you not clean enough, as does hot too long) With practice, you'll get a sense of where you can be a little lazy with prepping the joint (the flux will dissolve a certain amount of oxides). The more work you ask it to do, the more risk you're taking. But when in doubt, if you're running into problems, or if you absolutely cannot afford for it to go wrong: Clean everything scrupulously, scrub your solder with scotchbrite to get rid of oxides, get fresh flux (it can be contaminated in a busy shop, I usually work from a small jar and fill from the large), use distilled/RO water to thin it. Control your variables to control the outcome. :)
Hi Quinn! Excellent video as always! One quick fact: I deposited copper many times in the lab, were we are able to measure the thickness down to single atomic layers easily. If you can see the layer, it probably is at least a few 100s of nm. Thus about 1000s of atomic layers. A little thicker than what you said, but the conclusion is the same. This is irrelevant for the strength of the part.
Takes me back to my course in silversmithing. It was very cathartic to beat the hell out of a piece of metal, dunk it in acid, set it on fire, and dunk it in acid again. Sometimes the end result even came out as I expected. Will confirm that one should not heat the solder lest one end up with oxidized solder everywhere but in the joint, and that a poking bit of wire is very helpful and sometimes necessary to get the solder to flow.
This may not work for every situation but I have great results using a solder paste, typically used for SMT applications, and a stainless steel flux (hydrochloric acid and zinc chloride). The part I use this on is a stainless steel tube to a brass pipe fitting. It's then tested to 375 psi. I just use the cartridge torch with map plus (because I'm a cool kid 😉). Obviously all the same steps apply (you have a great resource), only the solder and flux are different, but I find it more controllable and cleaner. In fact the client I do this for, I have seen their products in your shop during some of your videos.
Cheapskate tip: Sparex seems to be based on sodium bisulfate, which is also sold as PH- for pools. I just tried that for removing mill scale from mild steel and it did an excellent job.
Thank you very much for sharing this information. I restore vintage fountain pens and have some brass parts that I want to silver solder for the sake of strength, so I appreciate your guidance greatly.
I have a project that requires silver soldering. Thank you for this excellent video instruction. This makes me confident that I will get off to a good start and know what to look for. Thank you Quinn!
I've been silver soldering silver jewelry for the last 7 years, and I just wish I'd had this video available before learning all of the pitfalls firsthand. This is a fantastic resource, and has the information and production quality to rival any college courses I've had the displeasure of watching. Everything you touched on is also valuable information when soldering silver pieces together with the only exception being the type of silver solders used in silversmithing. I'm going to point people to this video any time I get questions about soldering issues in the future. Thank you for consistently providing top tier content!
And because we've watched both the results of following these guidelines and the results of not following these guidelines in extensive detail on this very channel I have absolute confidence in the information.
Once again Quinn blesses us with the absolute top tier educational content. This level of quality puts most of my university lecturers to shame. I've wanted to try silver soldering for years now, and I think I might actually be informed enough to do so now. Keep it up, Quinn. Amazing stuff.
Thanks. Very helpful. I've been told by people who know metallurgy that a major issue with welds is that the temperature gradient around the melt pool makes it pretty much inevitable that significant internal stresses will result. Those effectively subtract from the parent metal strength, which makes crack formation sites. The lower heat of brazing and silver soldering mitigates this problem. Seems to make sense.
In my experience the pickling isn't entirely necessary if you're quick. If you abrade or file the surface to be silver soldered and immediately apply your flux, it will be clean enough to let the solder grab hold. I'm talking apply the flux within 30 seconds of exposing fresh surface. Maybe not practical for a lot of situations, but useful for some. I like pickling in general and it's definitely the way to go if you're getting started, but for things like ferrous metals that don't need a super accurate dimension I've found it to be useful, especially on a time crunch
My pickle story: My parents were manufacturing silversmiths. In the shop, sitting in one of the back corners of the soldering bench, was a hot plate that kept a beaker full of a 10% H2SO4 pickle hot. One day, when my folks were out of town, I got into the shop, opened the door, and immediately went over to turn off the hot plate, which had been on all night long. Then I turned off the alarm system, and walked back out closing the door. After a couple of minutes, I went back in and opened windows of opposite sides of the shop, and left again. I also expressed gratitude that the electroplating setup (with open tanks of potassium silver cyanide) was in a different part of the building, and wasn't sitting exposed for hours to pickle fumes.
"The secret to success is that the metal itself must melt the solder. Not your heat source" Ex-electronics bench tech here, and with some experience on copper too. This is the correct technique. Don't heat the solder directly, heat the surface/join it is going to flow across/into.
If you don't have a torch you can always mean-mug your parts until the solder is intimidated enough to play ball. Make sure you have something to eat on hand, though. You might be a while.
One of my first jobs back in 1980 - 1984 was when we used oxy-acetylene when brazing/soldering parts of the chassis on a Volvo 240, 245 and Volvo 740 cars. The flux was included in the flame, also it was not silver solder...
I missed one tip. Reflowing cost/need more heat. So non critical items can be touched up with the same type of silver solder. I have learned that from you in other video's.
Hi Quinn , this post was recommended by RUclips and I immediately thought of you. It is about model railway construction and is called ProcessX which features a world renowned Japanese gentleman ! Edit : this was released one month ago !
silver soldering has such strong bond strength that the ATF considers it the same as welding when attaching a muzzle device to a rifle barrel to avoid its classification as a short barrel rifle.
I think you must have read my comment on the steam manifold video about silver soldering. This was a great tutorial and goes into my playlist in case I ever decide to do a project where silver soldering simply can’t be avoided or is required in abundance. Otherwise, the materials and equipment required are a bit too extensive for the rare necessity of having to do it (other than the bigger torch which would be very nice for heat treating). It’s also nice to get an idea of where I can find the right materials up here in Canuckistan should I ever need them.
I lied. In my last comment on your video from three months ago, I said that I watch your videos the first thing on Sunday mornings after breakfast. Howevver, I do watch them on a Saturday night too. Time zones are a mess, I guess. I hope your shoulder is feeling better. I am yet to start watching the video; so, if you have already given an update on that, please excuse the redundant question. Once again, thank you for sharing your gained knowledge with the world andddddd Yahtzee!
Silver solder may not be as pretty as a nice TIG weld but it's plenty strong for most jobs. I have a large low/no pressure boiler and the Harris Stay-Brite 8% was strong and easy to use. High pressure is whole different question.
Worth noting for any novices that Stay-Brite 8 (and the normal Stay-Brite) are lower melt tin based solders, with a single digit percentage amount of silver in each. Both great solders, but very different mechanism of bonding as well as temperature range (and flux!).
A jeweller told me to use PH Down for pickling solution, where pool supplies are sold. It's the exact same chemical but costs less. (Edit) The kind I've bought is granular to be mixed with water, and has the active ingredient sodium bisulfate, just like the pickling solution here.
I've been doing electronic soldering for many decades, but haven't gotten into this stuff at all, yet. Your videos are actually the first place I've run into it. I did think that the hearth idea was a good one, and will probably snag some firebrick one of these days. We do have a woodstove anyway that needs a bit of help there. "Amazing footage"? Looked more like elbowage to me...
@15:15 You can see how fast the heat is going away from the part right here...very neat visual effect of the coloring on the tank as it quickly cools when the torch is removed! PS: I learned a lot about using certain types of plastic containers for acids instead of metal containers when I watched Breaking Bad...the bathtub scene was awesomely funny :)
Metal fume fever is no joke! There are some great cadmium free silver solders out there, but it does, unfortunately, make for some very free-flowing alloys. The issue, to my understanding as well as experience, is generally in overheating the solder (if you see tiny bubbles, you're boiling out some of the alloy constituents, like cadmium!) or creating fine sanding dust. Keep your temperature down, and make sure you have good ventilation/respiratory protection.
Informative as ever, and good to see another Quinn video. When silver-soldering carbide to steel, I suppose that fixturing screws are not an option. IIRC Steve Jordan has a video showing how he does it. Personally, being somewhat lazy and inept, I use indexable carbide inserts in standard, commercial tools.
Best way with pocketed carbide silver soldering is to let gravity assist your efforts. Place the pocket in such a way as to have gravity hold the piece of carbide into the pocket and use a gentle flame. The heat will get there fast enough and you don't need the breeze from a fast flame moving your bits around.
That was truly amazing footage! lol. But for real I always enjoy your tutorials. Very detailed and educational. And I’m pretty sure now my silver solder at work is not the legit type.
Hi Quin. Great Visio. Question, I want to join two pieces of brass rod for a decorative handle, w.njsilver solder work, or would brass brazing be better? I do plan to fish mouth tge one peeve.
Have you ever considered using something like an inductive loop to heat the whole part quickly to silver solder? I'd imagine it could work well for smaller parts/assemblies?
The springer forks on my mid 70's VW trike has a silver soldered joint. Until I started following Quinn and these boiler builds, I didnt appreciate the wisdom of the choice to silver solder rather than weld these joints...
Q: where do I find the link you refer to at 15:50 in this video showing one person using propane to heat the general assembly and another using oxyacetylene to heat a specific area?? Please?
It should be pointed out that if you have a way of keeping citric acid warm, using it for pickling will be plenty quick enough. I use an old coffee maker thingy, which is essentially a hotplate and a glass pot. Works great, and even as concentrated as it gets, citric acid will never be harmful to touch directly. Well, maybe you shouldn't drink it or pour it in your eyes. Can't imagine that would be very pleasant.
Hey Quinn! Happy Thanksgiving from your cousins South of the Border (Tennessee). Another awesome video as always. Although, I doubt I will ever build a boiler, I learned other uses of silver soldering that I hadn't thought about. One big question. How do you fixture carbide tooling into steel if I wanted to build custom cutting tools? I sure can't drill, tap, and screw it together. I can only envision a "C" shaped, pinching type clamp gizmo.
![[#2024MAMA] ROSÉ (로제), Bruno Mars - APT. | Mnet 241122 방송](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/dgGqD28J6aQ/mqdefault.jpg)
Please! For the love of all English speaking countries (outside of the North American continent) It’s not sodder. There’s an L in there and, (unusually), we use it!
If she did that, there would be an opposite comment by someone else. People should be natural.
It’s not soldaa. There’s an R in there.
According to OED it comes from old French “soudure,” I think the “L” got added to the spelling later by pedantic academics to reflect the Latin origin, same thing happened to “soldier” which was pronounced “sojer.”
Sorry, the country that pronounces “Leicester” as “lester” gave up all right to complain about pronunciational consistency with spelling.
Do you chastise the French for not pronouncing or spelling it with an L, when they also don't pronounce the R in souder?
Worked at a science center where one of the operations involved silver soldering a 100 lb assembly with 10-20 parts. The machinist/model maker used a big, very hot, oven th heat the entire assembly at one time. Then flowed the silver solder to all joints in one pass. About 5 lbs of solder. Took immense skill and was really neat to watch.
That sounds amazing
Quinn, I've done lots of normal soldering but never silver soldered. With the exception of pickling the processes are very similar.
It's testament to how well you put together your series videos (A3 switcher) that I found this video to be more of a convenient reminder on how to do it as I'm pretty sure you've covered 95% of the info as you led us through the build process. We'll done.
Quinn - this may be the best tutorial on ANY technical process I've ever seen! Very clear, very detailed, always to the point, and a joy to watch!
Soldering thoughts (trained as a goldsmith in the early 2000's, mostly custom lighting for the last 18 years, lots of silver soldering, including single joints holding 400 lbs over people in an event venue):
Cleaning: Sanding/scotchbrite right before flux works well. Maybe the dust carries away any skin/cutting oils, along with oxides? Comet is also excellent, the bleach really helps cut/oxidize any oils, I suspect. You can get a really good water break test result that way (credit to Robin Renzetti for that one).
I like a flux mix of ~10 white flux to 1 black (it's not precise, but it's easy to add too much black, take it slow). I find it gives me just a slightly longer working time, while helping a little on oddball alloys that don't solder reliably with just white. The black works well, but as you note, makes the joint hard to read, and I find the orange flare pretty hard on my eyes if I'm doing lots of parts.
Fixturing/set up: Don't fight gravity, use it! Solder will run uphill, but it is far from ideal. As Quinn notes, solder will flow towards a hotter area (I'm guessing the viscosity drops, causing it to wick in that direction?). The gold standard for a continuous joint, to my mind, is to add solder at one point and draw it from there. Once you get into adding at lots of locations, you can find you have pinholes the solder skipped.
Pickle: pool 'pH down' (sodium bisulfate) works well!
Broadly:
If it is clean enough, and hot enough, it will solder.
If it does not solder, it is not clean enough, or not hot enough. (Too hot gets you not clean enough, as does hot too long)
With practice, you'll get a sense of where you can be a little lazy with prepping the joint (the flux will dissolve a certain amount of oxides). The more work you ask it to do, the more risk you're taking.
But when in doubt, if you're running into problems, or if you absolutely cannot afford for it to go wrong: Clean everything scrupulously, scrub your solder with scotchbrite to get rid of oxides, get fresh flux (it can be contaminated in a busy shop, I usually work from a small jar and fill from the large), use distilled/RO water to thin it. Control your variables to control the outcome. :)
Hi Quinn! Excellent video as always! One quick fact: I deposited copper many times in the lab, were we are able to measure the thickness down to single atomic layers easily. If you can see the layer, it probably is at least a few 100s of nm. Thus about 1000s of atomic layers.
A little thicker than what you said, but the conclusion is the same. This is irrelevant for the strength of the part.
Thank you🎯
I didn’t literally mean one atom thick, obviously.
Excellent tutorial! Incidentally "The Wind from the Torch" is my favourite 1970s Prog Rock Band.
Takes me back to my course in silversmithing. It was very cathartic to beat the hell out of a piece of metal, dunk it in acid, set it on fire, and dunk it in acid again. Sometimes the end result even came out as I expected. Will confirm that one should not heat the solder lest one end up with oxidized solder everywhere but in the joint, and that a poking bit of wire is very helpful and sometimes necessary to get the solder to flow.
This may not work for every situation but I have great results using a solder paste, typically used for SMT applications, and a stainless steel flux (hydrochloric acid and zinc chloride). The part I use this on is a stainless steel tube to a brass pipe fitting. It's then tested to 375 psi. I just use the cartridge torch with map plus (because I'm a cool kid 😉). Obviously all the same steps apply (you have a great resource), only the solder and flux are different, but I find it more controllable and cleaner. In fact the client I do this for, I have seen their products in your shop during some of your videos.
Cheapskate tip: Sparex seems to be based on sodium bisulfate, which is also sold as PH- for pools. I just tried that for removing mill scale from mild steel and it did an excellent job.
You beat me to it, with the cheapskate tip!! 😆
Thank you very much for sharing this information. I restore vintage fountain pens and have some brass parts that I want to silver solder for the sake of strength, so I appreciate your guidance greatly.
I have a project that requires silver soldering. Thank you for this excellent video instruction. This makes me confident that I will get off to a good start and know what to look for. Thank you Quinn!
I've been silver soldering silver jewelry for the last 7 years, and I just wish I'd had this video available before learning all of the pitfalls firsthand. This is a fantastic resource, and has the information and production quality to rival any college courses I've had the displeasure of watching. Everything you touched on is also valuable information when soldering silver pieces together with the only exception being the type of silver solders used in silversmithing. I'm going to point people to this video any time I get questions about soldering issues in the future. Thank you for consistently providing top tier content!
And because we've watched both the results of following these guidelines and the results of not following these guidelines in extensive detail on this very channel I have absolute confidence in the information.
Once again Quinn blesses us with the absolute top tier educational content. This level of quality puts most of my university lecturers to shame.
I've wanted to try silver soldering for years now, and I think I might actually be informed enough to do so now.
Keep it up, Quinn. Amazing stuff.
Thanks Quinn! I genuinely had no idea silver solder joints had the ability to flex. That explains so much itself. 👍
Thanks. Very helpful. I've been told by people who know metallurgy that a major issue with welds is that the temperature gradient around the melt pool makes it pretty much inevitable that significant internal stresses will result. Those effectively subtract from the parent metal strength, which makes crack formation sites. The lower heat of brazing and silver soldering mitigates this problem. Seems to make sense.
Excellent how-to description. You expanded my silver knowledge 1000%.
In my experience the pickling isn't entirely necessary if you're quick. If you abrade or file the surface to be silver soldered and immediately apply your flux, it will be clean enough to let the solder grab hold. I'm talking apply the flux within 30 seconds of exposing fresh surface. Maybe not practical for a lot of situations, but useful for some. I like pickling in general and it's definitely the way to go if you're getting started, but for things like ferrous metals that don't need a super accurate dimension I've found it to be useful, especially on a time crunch
@09:38: "There he lies, so still and placid,
because he added water to the acid"
“He should’ve done what he ‘oughter’: put the acid into water”
Great tutorial. Complete "how to in less than 30 min". Bravo! Thank you!
My pickle story: My parents were manufacturing silversmiths. In the shop, sitting in one of the back corners of the soldering bench, was a hot plate that kept a beaker full of a 10% H2SO4 pickle hot. One day, when my folks were out of town, I got into the shop, opened the door, and immediately went over to turn off the hot plate, which had been on all night long. Then I turned off the alarm system, and walked back out closing the door. After a couple of minutes, I went back in and opened windows of opposite sides of the shop, and left again. I also expressed gratitude that the electroplating setup (with open tanks of potassium silver cyanide) was in a different part of the building, and wasn't sitting exposed for hours to pickle fumes.
Really good to have this information in one place as well as being sidebars in other videos. Thanks.
"The secret to success is that the metal itself must melt the solder. Not your heat source"
Ex-electronics bench tech here, and with some experience on copper too. This is the correct technique. Don't heat the solder directly, heat the surface/join it is going to flow across/into.
If you don't have a torch you can always mean-mug your parts until the solder is intimidated enough to play ball. Make sure you have something to eat on hand, though. You might be a while.
Great tutorial on silver solder. Thanks!
really good episode. I learned that I was not cleaning the metal well enough and that I need a bigger torch. Thanks!
One of my first jobs back in 1980 - 1984 was when we used oxy-acetylene when brazing/soldering parts of the chassis on a Volvo 240, 245 and Volvo 740 cars. The flux was included in the flame, also it was not silver solder...
because it was brazing, NOT soldering
some people use term "brazing" incorrectly 🤪
If you don't have access to acetylene and a friend, you can always just spend a little bit extra and use a self-sealing stay bolt instead.
Thanks for taking the time to teach !
Quinn This is A great clinic, thank you for teaching us!
I missed one tip.
Reflowing cost/need more heat. So non critical items can be touched up with the same type of silver solder.
I have learned that from you in other video's.
Awesome underpants gnome reference
Thank you for give me a bit joy today. I had a really bad day.
I hear you friend…👊
❤ exended my bike steerer tube today with Brenzomatic silver solder, worked great 🎉🎉🎉
Great tips and tricks video Quinn, thanks.
The Master in Silver Soldering, FINALLY put out a video on Silver Soldering.
Hi Quinn , this post was recommended by RUclips and I immediately thought of you. It is about model railway construction and is called ProcessX which features a world renowned Japanese gentleman ! Edit : this was released one month ago !
silver soldering has such strong bond strength that the ATF considers it the same as welding when attaching a muzzle device to a rifle barrel to avoid its classification as a short barrel rifle.
Excellent video Quinn. I've watched all of your previous videos but it's great to have all of this detail in a single video.
I think you must have read my comment on the steam manifold video about silver soldering. This was a great tutorial and goes into my playlist in case I ever decide to do a project where silver soldering simply can’t be avoided or is required in abundance. Otherwise, the materials and equipment required are a bit too extensive for the rare necessity of having to do it (other than the bigger torch which would be very nice for heat treating). It’s also nice to get an idea of where I can find the right materials up here in Canuckistan should I ever need them.
I lied. In my last comment on your video from three months ago, I said that I watch your videos the first thing on Sunday mornings after breakfast. Howevver, I do watch them on a Saturday night too. Time zones are a mess, I guess. I hope your shoulder is feeling better. I am yet to start watching the video; so, if you have already given an update on that, please excuse the redundant question. Once again, thank you for sharing your gained knowledge with the world andddddd Yahtzee!
That is excellent detail. Very grateful for this illustrative exhaustive explanation. No wonder I find it daunting. Unique video material. thanks.
Silver solder may not be as pretty as a nice TIG weld but it's plenty strong for most jobs. I have a large low/no pressure boiler and the Harris Stay-Brite 8% was strong and easy to use. High pressure is whole different question.
Worth noting for any novices that Stay-Brite 8 (and the normal Stay-Brite) are lower melt tin based solders, with a single digit percentage amount of silver in each. Both great solders, but very different mechanism of bonding as well as temperature range (and flux!).
A jeweller told me to use PH Down for pickling solution, where pool supplies are sold. It's the exact same chemical but costs less. (Edit) The kind I've bought is granular to be mixed with water, and has the active ingredient sodium bisulfate, just like the pickling solution here.
Thanks so much. Your pickle bath was always such a mystery to me.
Nice vintage Dremel!
Adding a drop of washing up soap to the flux mixture helps with applying it in my experiance
It seems that "silver soldering" could more accurately be called "preparation". Just like painting.
Thank You Quinn Dunki...EXCELLANT EXPLANATION....Much appreciated...A#1👍👍👍👍👍
Thank you Quinn…❤its been a looooooooong two weeks😢
I put my parts in boiling water to remove the flux and then pickle. A bit too much flux sometimes and the part doesn't pickle under the flux.
Great video as usual. Thanks for sharing your knowledge!
I've been doing electronic soldering for many decades, but haven't gotten into this stuff at all, yet. Your videos are actually the first place I've run into it. I did think that the hearth idea was a good one, and will probably snag some firebrick one of these days. We do have a woodstove anyway that needs a bit of help there. "Amazing footage"? Looked more like elbowage to me...
I would call that "Amazing Elbowage..."
Any thougts on using air-acetylene? I've had good luck with that gas combination, particularly for non-huge assemblies.
Hope you're feeling better.
@15:15 You can see how fast the heat is going away from the part right here...very neat visual effect of the coloring on the tank as it quickly cools when the torch is removed!
PS: I learned a lot about using certain types of plastic containers for acids instead of metal containers when I watched Breaking Bad...the bathtub scene was awesomely funny :)
I rarely silver solder - but I do a lot of electrical soldering. Same things apply. Solder follows the heat..
Great video and i think it will help me. Thank you
Brilliant. Great timing, thanks!
Excellent video. Thanks.
Very well done.
3:32 Cadmium is a leading cause of posioning, and can lead to typoxicity.
Metal fume fever is no joke! There are some great cadmium free silver solders out there, but it does, unfortunately, make for some very free-flowing alloys. The issue, to my understanding as well as experience, is generally in overheating the solder (if you see tiny bubbles, you're boiling out some of the alloy constituents, like cadmium!) or creating fine sanding dust. Keep your temperature down, and make sure you have good ventilation/respiratory protection.
Hard (high temp) silver solder for jewelry making is around 75% silver.
*so many people* don't understand the truth about the yellow cylinders, thank you!
always entertaining and informative Quinn
It is prudent to pickle properly, prepping priority proves procrastination puts pressure per plentiful previous poor periods.
Do as you oughta, add acid to water.
AAA: Always Add the Acid
You beat me to it so I'll add in (of torches) A before O or up you'll go.
Thanks Quinn, good topic.
Informative as ever, and good to see another Quinn video.
When silver-soldering carbide to steel, I suppose that fixturing screws are not an option. IIRC Steve Jordan has a video showing how he does it. Personally, being somewhat lazy and inept, I use indexable carbide inserts in standard, commercial tools.
Best way with pocketed carbide silver soldering is to let gravity assist your efforts. Place the pocket in such a way as to have gravity hold the piece of carbide into the pocket and use a gentle flame. The heat will get there fast enough and you don't need the breeze from a fast flame moving your bits around.
Awesome video, lots of information. Thank you.
Perfect timing!!!
Great information , thank you Quinn
Thanks Quinn
The precursor to Led Zeppelin: Copper Balloon
Great video, thanks for sharing 👍.
Oxy propane torches can be good to use instead of oxyacetylene
Happy Thanksgiving.
Excellent video. Lots of useful info. I also love the self-trolling comments and imagery. I laughed a lot.
That was truly amazing footage! lol. But for real I always enjoy your tutorials. Very detailed and educational. And I’m pretty sure now my silver solder at work is not the legit type.
I live in a high rise condo and torches are very illegal. I live vicariously through your soldering videos.
It's only illegal if someone witnesses it.
@@danilonascimento9866 Condo safety :: research Grenfell Tower fire.
You speak highly of the roofing torch, but can a weed burner be used?
I'd also be interested to hear if anyone has experience with this.
Hi Quin. Great Visio. Question, I want to join two pieces of brass rod for a decorative handle, w.njsilver solder work, or would brass brazing be better? I do plan to fish mouth tge one peeve.
Have you ever considered using something like an inductive loop to heat the whole part quickly to silver solder? I'd imagine it could work well for smaller parts/assemblies?
It would be very slow and use enormous amounts of electricity
WooHoo! first one again... Thank you for posting Quinn
What about brazing tools? You aren't screwing down carbide....
You braze the carbide down then grind the tool to shape, so some movement isn't an issue.
Over here we cal it hard solder ;)
The springer forks on my mid 70's VW trike has a silver soldered joint. Until I started following Quinn and these boiler builds, I didnt appreciate the wisdom of the choice to silver solder rather than weld these joints...
I'll add a certain amount of hydrogen peroxide to the pot to get rid of the copper bloom on silver items.
Thank you for the video :D
Fab! Thanks!
Where does one dispose of used heavily-contaminated Sparex Number 2? Asking for a friend
Many areas have hazardous waste disposal services, they would give you better advice than youtube.
Slowly add baking soda until it doesn't react any longer. What you do after that depends on where you are.
excellent as usual. no screw in the boring bar?
Q: where do I find the link you refer to at 15:50 in this video showing one person using propane to heat the general assembly and another using oxyacetylene to heat a specific area?? Please?
In the description
@@Blondihacks Many thanks for responding so quickly.
When rinsing after removing the flux in the pickling acid, do you use a base like baking soda or just pure water?
Just water is fine
Masterclass 👏👏👍😀
Is it soldering? Brazing? Welding? HOT GLUE?
It should be pointed out that if you have a way of keeping citric acid warm, using it for pickling will be plenty quick enough. I use an old coffee maker thingy, which is essentially a hotplate and a glass pot. Works great, and even as concentrated as it gets, citric acid will never be harmful to touch directly. Well, maybe you shouldn't drink it or pour it in your eyes. Can't imagine that would be very pleasant.
Hey Quinn! Happy Thanksgiving from your cousins South of the Border (Tennessee). Another awesome video as always. Although, I doubt I will ever build a boiler, I learned other uses of silver soldering that I hadn't thought about.
One big question. How do you fixture carbide tooling into steel if I wanted to build custom cutting tools? I sure can't drill, tap, and screw it together. I can only envision a "C" shaped, pinching type clamp gizmo.
What about phosphoric acid for pickling?