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Scale Model Basics: Soldering Photo-etched Metal
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- Опубликовано: 30 июн 2022
- Welcome to FineScale Modeler magazine's Scale Model Basics: Soldering photo-etched metal. Soldering holds PE parts together more strongly. Watch to find out how we solder here at FineScale Modeler magazine and don't forget to be safe!
00:15 Why solder photo-etched metal?
00:45 What tools and supplies do you need for soldering?
05:45 Process of soldering PE metal parts
06:35 The tacking method
07:52 Soldering by running a bead
08:35 Cleaning up
09:15 Conclusion/summary
10:18 Sign off
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Thanks Tim. Good visual examples with a patient explanation, will help bunches 👍
Thanks for watching!
Tim, one thing to caution modelers about: the smoke from applying solder to the iron is extremely irritating and can put you in the hospital! I never realized how potent that smoke was 'til I caught a noseful and ended up in the ER. I think my reaction was extreme, but everyone needs to be aware of the risks. I've soldered for years with no issues, but that one time I just wasn't paying attention.
Thanks for the info Tim.
Very useful, thaks a lot! cheers
You're welcome!
I know this vid is aimed at beginners. But. If you’re a little more experienced modeler or very serious about your work…
One word “resistance solderer” 🤗. Ok, it’s $$$ expensive but once you make the leap you’ll never go back to iron/pencil soldering; except for electronics - never use a resistance unit on electronics. We’ve got an American Beauty resistance unit and a Hakko pencil station, and a few Wellers that spend most of their time in a drawer now. Another useful tool is a hot air desoldering station (hint it can also solder low temp solders). [edit: I’d be remiss not to mention Quad-Hands, awesome, the heavy weighted bases help keep from tipping and destroying hours of work, for 1/32-1/35 and larger look at their largest unit, I’ve got a Handley Page Victor held in one at the moment).]edit #2 we use our X-Tronic hot air unit for desoldering, soldering (24/26 gauge wiring) and…ta-dum …heating fibers for bending to fit in tight places, example is the BOP my youngest did for WF and Eaglequest years ago and which appeared in FSM, there was a TON of fiber in that thing. Was a lot safer for him to use, he was about 10/12 at the time, wow time flies he’ll be graduating University soon.].
Get a resist unit w a foot pedal or your preferred pencil solderer,a few different temp solders [edit: something akin to Carr’s] heat sinks (worst case) and some good liquid flux and your good to go. Don’t forget surface prep, clean (lacquer on brass) and/or lightly sand. With the resist soldering, we (my son and I) cut the solder into very tiny pieces and preplace them on the pieces to be soldered. A nice plus of a resist unit method - it can be far easier to setup and mount parts for soldering. No muss no fuss no unsightly solder showing. If someone reading this decides to get a resist unit, get one bigger than you think you’ll need, brass (typical in our hobby) can be a major heat sucker.
I’ve taught quite a few scouts and kids how to solder model components with both types, and 99% of the time they’ll head back to the resist unit, it’s really that much nicer to learn and use with precision.
Happy model building!
Hey Tim, we’ll see ya’ll (FSM) back at Wonderfest in 2024.
Not associated with any brands that might be mentioned in my comments, other than as a long-time (decades in most cases) user of a tool I’ve used extensively and enjoy using.
As always YMMV. Just sharing. Nothing more. Nothing less.
Thanks .Very useful content for biginners
You're welcome! Thanks for watching.
It would seem to me that if you wanted something to practice on, try soldering on the metal frame left after cutting off the PE pieces you want to use. Bend it into whatever shape you want. You were going to throw it away anyway.
Your could fold up an old PE fret an practice on that. Or if you have a fret of PE parts you didn't use on another kit, then fold those up and practice.
What alloy solder is used for the PE metal types? Are there different types of flux?
Because you aren't soldering water pipes, you can use tin/lead alloy or tinned copper, or you can opt for silver solder. Make sure to use get narrow gauge; we used 22AWG solder in the video. There are different types of fluxes. We used an all-purpose flux that can be used for hobbies and stained glass. No need for anything industrial.
Note: solder will flow wherever the flux is.
Sure, but you spoke in generalities and left off specifics. Like, what type of solder. What wattage of iron? etc etc.