I hope everyone enjoys this video! If you have any questions, or comments please comment below! If you're interested in other soldering videos....check out this one here.....ruclips.net/video/l79Wi1ov33Q/видео.html
Pls may I ask what sort of solder you use. I was thinking of making a roll cage out of metal coat hangers using this method, but not sure if ordinary solder would be good/strong enough. 🤔
Magnificent piece of art. ) I have a broad experience in soldering and I can imagine myself making such a thing and screaming very rude words when these tiny eyelets slip off my grip... )
You have taken me back to architecture school!!! I had to use piano wire instead of brass. I might start building models again. You get lost in the build and the world melts away. Great job and thank you for sharing in this video.
First time watcher, here. I had no idea about this craft hobby. But I LOVE it! Looking forward to diving into your previous vids and checking everything out. Masterfully done, sir!
Why have I never thought of using a soldering iron for little projects like this?!?!? That's like a million times better than a torch 🤦🏻♂️ thank you sir! You have just inspired several new projects 😂
Awesome Content Clay, I’m doing my 1st 1/25 All Brass TF Dragster frame & was thinking of ways to get my Blueprint to my Jig. 📍Exactly what I needed💯 Lee
I know I’m a little late to the party here, but are you willing to share your chassis drawings?(if even for a fee) I’ve drawn a few out in autocad, but can’t seem to be happy with the turnout. Regardless, love the videos! Absolutely awestruck each time I pull any of your videos up. Truly incredible work, and always look forward to seeing your builds!
Don't know if I'll ever attempt this but it sure is a pleasure to watch! Are your locating pins bits of copper wire? And do you go back and solder the opposite sides?
The pins were just solid 1/16" brass rod. Same diameter as what I was using for the frame rails. And yes, I go back and correct or add more solder to joints as I go along if needed. By using tube instead of rod it really pulls the solder into the joint, making for a cleaner connection.
Fantastic video !! Back in the late '60s i had grand ideas of scratch building a 1/20 scale rail dragster with aluminum square & round tubing (the scale was to match the awesome '68 Vette and AMX kits that i built) Alas, there was never a finished product as life got in the way but i still have the Corvette & AMX and last summer i started my covid project to replicate each car in metal...just to see if i could do it 😁
dude this is sick! I love the moderate randomness of your projects, like a micro rear axle! or scale wood! But it is so cool, and I might incorporate some of your techniques into my own work with micro crawlers.
Thanks for sharing your Idea... Its incredible to watch and learn... How strong are those joints made by soldering..?? Can we build a model for a truss like structure having nearly 60 joints to a 2 feet tall..?? can these joints withstand the self weight of such structure...?? Any input regarding this direction is appreciated... Thanks...
Dude, when I saw you reach in the shot with your hands I near had a aneurism, your hands and arms look so much like mine it's creepy beyond belief!!! It was like I was watching my hands and arms doing the prep and soldering instead of someone else's! That is WAY more disconcerting than I had ever supposed!!!!! Great work BTW, I'm going to watch the rest of your work on this model now to see the finished product, I am an avid model builder, anything scale modeling I enjoy it thoroughly. I have a long time subscription to Fine Scale Modeler and have a rather large collection of kits both built and not. I mean, what kind of modeler would I be if I didn't have my own collection of kits to choose from when I'm finished with one? Buying kits always seems to happen when I go to the store to get more paint or glue etc. to finish of what I have going, then when it's done I look through the ones I have and choose one that has usually been put off for too long, and start on it, then the cycle repeats. LOL
Ah... this reminds me of a "rail job" I built in the '60's. I had been making chassis for slot cars, so I had the soldering down pat. I made up the frame, got a blown Hemi from a plastic kit. Did spark plug wires from thread. A rear diff housing from yet another kit. Seat and steering wheel from other kits. The skinny front wheels and rear slicks were from slot cars. A "Moon" tank up front and parachute on the back. Chassis all from brass rod. Looked great. I entered it in a model contest... didn't even place. The winner was a kid that built a model of the Munster Coach, go figure.
As a recently retired welder (41 years worth) you absolutely dazzled me! Your channel popped up on my feed tonight, and within minutes I was subbed! My feelings were bruised when you started using that soldering iron though! I recently purchased a similar unit by a different manufacturer (ok, Harbor Freight, but you already knew that didn’t you?), and it is an absolute junker! Tips won’t take solder, and it won’t develop enough heat to solder small copper stranded wires together! Anyhow, excellent build!
Thanks for watching Tom. I paid $40 for that Weller unit brand new off of ebay. Pretty cheap investment really. And I bought a couple extra of the ST1 mini-screwdriver tips. It really is the perfect combination for doing fine work like this.
Good to know so I don't get tempted to buy a no-name one on the cheap if mine ever gives out. How many corners do they cut to produce tips that won't take solder or a base unit that is junk? These things are generally so inexpensive even from trusted brands. I'm still using an Ungar adjustable that is over 20 years old, for circuit boards and wiring repairs.
@@charlieross-BRM the cheap ones work great. When they stop heating up its almost always the little heat diode. You can buy them in a 10 pack online with much better quality. I prefer my desk top expensive station for most of my soldering. Because i do alot of electronics and boards. Which require precise temperature settings. But honestly i use the heat gun alot more than the over priced station i have. But the best hand held iron thats mobile i have found is the milwaukee battery powered soldering gun. It had an adjustable tip angle and its totally wireless. Heats up in 18 seconds to full temp too. However it like all the rest have issues with cheaply made diodes in the heat element. But if you have another soldering iron you can fix them easy and they'll last forever. Just my 2 cents. Btw use flux and get some soldering iron tip tinner from amazon if you want to be able to transfer that heat and to melt solder uniformly
Could you please please please make plans free to print out some can build a midget chassis please. I build real 1:1 scale actuall sprint cars from a pile of tubing into a race ready car in a few months cuse I been racing since I I was 10 but having a hard time getting one scratch built or even a midget chassis scratch built in 1/24 scale due to not getting the scaling right or the tubing I'm right place it's not as easy as it looks guys
Well, thats because brass is a soft ass metal. I mean it would be somewhat realistic looking when crashed. But thats about the only reason to use it in an RC.
They got names for people like you. Awesome outstanding OMG. You make brains work and mine's going nuts. Don't know if you have seen my boat but the application of that drawing and Jig work may be of some assistance. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciate. Again awesome work beautifully done
God I wish you were still making videos on RUclips on how to build these more. Would really like to see your 1/10th scale Sprint car finished and running
Hi my name is Jeffrey Stokes I have been watching a video your work is amazing if you don't mind can you please tell the the name of the liquid flex that you use looks like good quality. Thank you so much. Form MR Jeffrey Stokes
Thumbs up for the great camera work and lack of music. I look forward to seeing how this turns out. Based on this video, I'd wager it'll be pretty awesome.
I built a smaller scale bicycle but used silver solder ( plumbers) and that was a pain, one mistake and I would scrap that part, lead solder would Have saved me on many parts. 🤪👍👍👍
I've heard if you plan on chrome plating your brass, it needs to be silver solder. All my frames get painted. And this solder is much easier to me to work with.
My solder teacher would always scold me when I would solder like you are, ( transfer soldering ) he would get so mad 😡! “Why even use rosin core solder if your just transfer soldering.” Then he would say “And you know it’s against tech data!”. (JSTD 001)
I've heard others mention to heat the joint and feed the solder into it. That doesn't work as well doing this type of work. As you can see, you gotta work quick, and with very little solder. Hit the joint and get out there! Thanks for watching!
@@ClayKemp I still solder most of the time just like your doing, with flux and solder on the tip of the iron!! He would always say that (my teacher) but he never soldered as I would solder day in and day out! For years! Great work!
A master craftsman, exceptionally talented. Racing and sports cars with bird cage frames are very complex great tips on how too make them ,you make the frames look easy LOL 👍👍👍👍
I had an idea to make Leonardo da Vinci's flying machine at a jewelry size or possibly slightly larger. And I had planned on using Bass and nickel and silver. You got me thinking again🤔
Nice work. We do a lot brass scratch building in 28mm, 1/32, 1/35 and primarily of late in 1:22.5. Couple of years ago upgraded from 30+ years of Weller to Hako, never looked back absolutely love it only regret is not doing sooner. Use a lot of resistance soldering (American Beauty) and sometimes even use a hot air unit (X-Tronic) for soldering. The resistance soldering advantage is its super precise and very little cleanup 👍along w limiting heat affecting nearby joints. Cut a ton of short solder pieces ahead of time and soldering goes super fast. Sometimes we still have to use multi-temp solder if joints are super close. Ditto on using a metal plate jig and magnets (use a mix of low strength hobby magnets along w N42 & N52s), ours has two plates at 90 deg. to each other. Again, nice work! As always YMMV. Just sharing, nothing more, nothing less.
Hi Clay great video. I am about to start my first build of a 1/6 scale motorcycle. The frame will be constructed with various stainless steel tubes and rods between 1mm and 8mm. I was originally going to use silver solder and a torch but having watched your video my question is would your soldering iron technique be a better alternative ? Many thanks Tim
I've never tried to solder with stainless steel. I am not sure that would work or not? It may just fall apart. Unless there is a solder or some form of brazing that would hold it together. Worth trying anyway!
@@ClayKemp Thanks Clay I’m a bit impulsive and I’ve bought in the SS now so fingers crossed 😆 In hind sight I should have used brass tubes and nickel plated the finished frame oh well we live and learn. Thanks again.
Did the brass chassis while in Korea in 1968-69. Built the chassis for a Ford Cobra slot car, was a big thing back then. I was chassis challenged but, I had no parts outside wheels front, rear or sides, challenge denied, I was legal. Built two more before I left from spare parts. Great way to pass time, keeps your mind busy!
Absolutely beautiful and accurate cage. I’ve driven the tow truck and been on the safety crew at a dirt track for the last 15 years. I know people that would pay very good money for that model cage just to set it on their desk. Very good job! Are you building it as a Static or an RC?
Un mot, un seul ! Bravo ! Non, ce n'est pas vrai.... d'autres ont suivis, comme formidable, magique ! J'ai aimé la précision (la vidéo grossissait les détails) et le travail fait ! Un seul truc m'a inquiété : Les doigts ! De ces doigts tout le monde n'en à pas de si méticuleux ! Il faut y faire attention ! Modéliste ferroviaire et modeste constructeur j'ai appris de cette vidéo. Merci ! Bonnes continuations, bonne fêtes de fin d'année et à bientôt De cordiales civilités Patrick (France)
In the early 80s these frames were made for large scale scalectric cars and raced on large tracks in shopping centres. I was given one, the type of chassis was a wompie
The flux is made by Tix. I pick it up at my HobbyTown, or off of ebay. They make solder too, but I didn't have much luck with it. But the flux is excellent.
Thats very cool, I made a 1/10th scale Midget chassis out of Brass about 10 Years ago, Was intending to make it RC but never finished it off. Still have the Chassis sitting on the shelf in the garage thou.
I drew them myself in Adobe Illustrator. But there are all kinds of blueprints online if you search for what you are looking for. That's usually where I start.
What's that metal tray called or where do you purchase? I found them online but can't remember where. I build structures a lot and they would really help.. seems I remember them being overpriced but all the cool mini tools are.. Maybe it was in my Micromark wishbook.. I don't think a million would buy every tool in that book..
The metal piece I am working on is just a sheet of thin galvanized sheet metal. I found two sheets on ebay for under $10 I think..I just tape it down to the wood to work on. Doesn't need to be anything fancy, as long as the magnets hold your work down, you're set.
@@ClayKemp thanks. youre right, i try to finagle whatever whenever i can. i even made my own chopper which is way better than nwsl imo. it just looked like one i seen online that came with various magnets, squares and clamps. thanks for the info!
Awesome work Clay. I absolutely love watching your videos. Will there be a continuation of this build? would love to see all the step by steps of the entire process.
Masterfully done. I've been working with styrene for many years and at various points I have considered trying brass, however I just don't think I have the patience for it! Styrene is an extremely forgiving medium to work with, and like you say the principles and techniques are very similar, however with styrene you can work very fast. Nice soldering iron btw. :)
I built plastic frames for ever....I like the brass because it is strong, you can be so much more precise than with plastic when doing smaller braces and tabs. Plus it is fun to do more actual "fabricating" with brass.
I do all my drawing and layout in Adobe Illustrator. I can scale everything to 1/24 scale and give myself an accurate set of plans to work with. Helps keep everything in scale.
Fantastic video. I have always built all my military armor and now big rigs with brass built into their construction....I thought I was alone, til now. Immediately SUBSCRIBED and impressed.
Hi Clay, looks like this is going to be another great build. Will this be a Larson or sunshine or a mystery build? Well I really can't wait to see the rest. Thank you for taking time to video the build and your techniques. Never have tried a midget brass frame build, only done a front end steering gasser plastic model build. Used to build slot car chassis from scratch, kind of have an idea of what you are doing. Thanks and see you later.
How do you solder something so close to another joint without the existing one coming apart? This is the stuff that drives me crazy when things get about half as complex as your frame.
One thing... you need a hot iron that you can heat, melt the solder, and get off the joint quickly. Also a wet rag on the nearby soldered joint. Flux (I use rosin, not acid flux).
I want to make a good rock crawler frame to add my custom arduino controls to it. Do you know where i can find a schematic to make the frame with the same technique as yours? Or perhaps i have hand draw it myself. Great video!
@@ClayKemp yeasterday i made a couple of test and using regular solder i achieve a good joint. Rock crawlers have a good amount of flexibility due to the suspension. Im measuring the total weight to make the build as lightweight as possible to minimize the risk of stressing the joints.
I hope everyone enjoys this video! If you have any questions, or comments please comment below! If you're interested in other soldering videos....check out this one here.....ruclips.net/video/l79Wi1ov33Q/видео.html
Pls may I ask what sort of solder you use. I was thinking of making a roll cage out of metal coat hangers using this method, but not sure if ordinary solder would be good/strong enough. 🤔
Magnificent piece of art. ) I have a broad experience in soldering and I can imagine myself making such a thing and screaming very rude words when these tiny eyelets slip off my grip... )
Y
Cool! I stumbled onto this. I have wondered about making models from brass. Subscribed! 💡💡💡
How strong are the solder joints compared to the brass? This method for making a chassis sounds like a ton of fun
You have taken me back to architecture school!!! I had to use piano wire instead of brass. I might start building models again. You get lost in the build and the world melts away. Great job and thank you for sharing in this video.
Glad you liked it. Thanks for watching!
Architecture School studios were grueling!!! Late nights, all-nighters...graduated 2001...4 months after 9/11. Thanks for the memories
Absolutely outstanding my friend!! Love watching the master!! Thanks for sharing bro!!
Thank ya buddy!
Could you please tell me what gauge tubing this is? Is it half hard? I am looking to build a sturdy sculpture for outdoors. Thanks!
Great vid Clay, thanks for sharing! 👍👍👍
First time watcher, here. I had no idea about this craft hobby. But I LOVE it! Looking forward to diving into your previous vids and checking everything out. Masterfully done, sir!
Awesome! Thank you!
Hey Clay. I just now stumbled across your channel! I know, what's taken me so long, aye? Brilliant content, thanks for sharing your skills.
Good to hear from you old friend. Thanks for checking me out. I'm a big fan of your channel as well!
Another masterpiece in the making Clay. Been in awe of your models for a while now.
Why have I never thought of using a soldering iron for little projects like this?!?!? That's like a million times better than a torch 🤦🏻♂️ thank you sir! You have just inspired several new projects 😂
Awesome! Good luck! Soldering like this can be a blast when it all goes like it is supposed to!
now make it pass the 1/24 tech inspection
Clay. This is an OUTSTANDING instructional video. Great style. Keep these coming.
Thank ya buddy! I'm still learning, and trying to find what works best for me. Thanks for watching, and commenting!
Awesome Content Clay, I’m doing my 1st 1/25 All Brass TF Dragster frame & was thinking of ways to get my Blueprint to my Jig.
📍Exactly what I needed💯
Lee
I know I’m a little late to the party here, but are you willing to share your chassis drawings?(if even for a fee) I’ve drawn a few out in autocad, but can’t seem to be happy with the turnout. Regardless, love the videos! Absolutely awestruck each time I pull any of your videos up. Truly incredible work, and always look forward to seeing your builds!
Another great video….thank you clay
This is an Amazing video !! Thank you for sharing your talents on Brass Bending and Soldering .....Truly a MasterClass !!!
Don't know if I'll ever attempt this but it sure is a pleasure to watch! Are your locating pins bits of copper wire? And do you go back and solder the opposite sides?
The pins were just solid 1/16" brass rod. Same diameter as what I was using for the frame rails. And yes, I go back and correct or add more solder to joints as I go along if needed. By using tube instead of rod it really pulls the solder into the joint, making for a cleaner connection.
Fantastic video !!
Back in the late '60s i had grand ideas of scratch building a 1/20 scale rail dragster with aluminum square & round tubing (the scale was to match the awesome '68 Vette and AMX kits that i built)
Alas, there was never a finished product as life got in the way but i still have the Corvette & AMX and last summer i started my covid project to replicate each car in metal...just to see if i could do it 😁
I would have loved to see a whole series on this model build. The result is outstanding!
Nice very nice
dude this is sick! I love the moderate randomness of your projects, like a micro rear axle! or scale wood! But it is so cool, and I might incorporate some of your techniques into my own work with micro crawlers.
Thanks for sharing your Idea... Its incredible to watch and learn...
How strong are those joints made by soldering..?? Can we build a model for a truss like structure having nearly 60 joints to a 2 feet tall..?? can these joints withstand the self weight of such structure...?? Any input regarding this direction is appreciated... Thanks...
Dude, when I saw you reach in the shot with your hands I near had a aneurism, your hands and arms look so much like mine it's creepy beyond belief!!! It was like I was watching my hands and arms doing the prep and soldering instead of someone else's! That is WAY more disconcerting than I had ever supposed!!!!! Great work BTW, I'm going to watch the rest of your work on this model now to see the finished product, I am an avid model builder, anything scale modeling I enjoy it thoroughly. I have a long time subscription to Fine Scale Modeler and have a rather large collection of kits both built and not. I mean, what kind of modeler would I be if I didn't have my own collection of kits to choose from when I'm finished with one? Buying kits always seems to happen when I go to the store to get more paint or glue etc. to finish of what I have going, then when it's done I look through the ones I have and choose one that has usually been put off for too long, and start on it, then the cycle repeats. LOL
Ah... this reminds me of a "rail job" I built in the '60's. I had been making chassis for slot cars, so I had the soldering down pat. I made up the frame, got a blown Hemi from a plastic kit. Did spark plug wires from thread. A rear diff housing from yet another kit. Seat and steering wheel from other kits. The skinny front wheels and rear slicks were from slot cars. A "Moon" tank up front and parachute on the back. Chassis all from brass rod. Looked great. I entered it in a model contest... didn't even place. The winner was a kid that built a model of the Munster Coach, go figure.
I think we've all been there! Thanks for watching...
As a recently retired welder (41 years worth) you absolutely dazzled me! Your channel popped up on my feed tonight, and within minutes I was subbed! My feelings were bruised when you started using that soldering iron though! I recently purchased a similar unit by a different manufacturer (ok, Harbor Freight, but you already knew that didn’t you?), and it is an absolute junker! Tips won’t take solder, and it won’t develop enough heat to solder small copper stranded wires together! Anyhow, excellent build!
Thanks for watching Tom. I paid $40 for that Weller unit brand new off of ebay. Pretty cheap investment really. And I bought a couple extra of the ST1 mini-screwdriver tips. It really is the perfect combination for doing fine work like this.
Good to know so I don't get tempted to buy a no-name one on the cheap if mine ever gives out. How many corners do they cut to produce tips that won't take solder or a base unit that is junk? These things are generally so inexpensive even from trusted brands. I'm still using an Ungar adjustable that is over 20 years old, for circuit boards and wiring repairs.
You need to tin your tips first and use lots of flux.
@@charlieross-BRM the cheap ones work great.
When they stop heating up its almost always the little heat diode. You can buy them in a 10 pack online with much better quality.
I prefer my desk top expensive station for most of my soldering. Because i do alot of electronics and boards. Which require precise temperature settings.
But honestly i use the heat gun alot more than the over priced station i have.
But the best hand held iron thats mobile i have found is the milwaukee battery powered soldering gun. It had an adjustable tip angle and its totally wireless. Heats up in 18 seconds to full temp too. However it like all the rest have issues with cheaply made diodes in the heat element. But if you have another soldering iron you can fix them easy and they'll last forever.
Just my 2 cents.
Btw use flux and get some soldering iron tip tinner from amazon if you want to be able to transfer that heat and to melt solder uniformly
This was the fuel I needed to start making Drag chassis. Thanks brother.
Could you please please please make plans free to print out some can build a midget chassis please. I build real 1:1 scale actuall sprint cars from a pile of tubing into a race ready car in a few months cuse I been racing since I I was 10 but having a hard time getting one scratch built or even a midget chassis scratch built in 1/24 scale due to not getting the scaling right or the tubing I'm right place it's not as easy as it looks guys
nice work any chance on sharing the blueprint? would like to try building this myself.
Nice very good video , someday I'm going to try and build one .. Thanks for the video
Where did you come up with the blueprints? Did you design them yourself?
Do tou have links for the size tubing you used? Or just all the materials?
Fantastic video clay. Thanks. What temp is your soldering iron set to?
Thank you....I just crank mine up all the way to 5 and leave it there.
Next step . folding th beer cans into bodies for said cars .. My grandfather used fosters cans
So glad you made this video! Any hints on where to get certain sizes of albion materials?
I ordered these from Sprue Brothers. But I have also seen different combinations of sizes on ebay.
i gotta 3d print one of those flux holders. the tix flux and solder is some of my favorite but i knock over the bottle ever time i work with it
Hello, where can i print off this blue print so as i can start making my own chassis?
Yes thats great i can lern any more things .Thank you!
as someone who used to build custom rc's back in the day, i never thought of using brass tubes. lot's of respect to you for your creativity, sir.
Well, thats because brass is a soft ass metal.
I mean it would be somewhat realistic looking when crashed.
But thats about the only reason to use it in an RC.
It's a genuine pleasure to watch a master at work
Lol the magnetic field is messing with your mic. Cool.
Nice. To anyone who can answer: Is it better/easier to work with brass or copper?
Or... you could make it out of nitinol and crash it and smash it and put it in hot water to fix it!
Mantap om hadir menyimak om moga sukses selalu ya
I did this build for a 1/10 scale R/C over 20 years ago, thanks for sharing. ⛏️⛏️⛏️🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸💪💪💪🎄
Nice build. How do you get such nice bright (shinny) solder joints? Mine tend to be gray. Thanks, Curt
I think that is mostly due to the Tix flux. And I use very little solder. Thanks for watching!
They got names for people like you. Awesome outstanding OMG. You make brains work and mine's going nuts. Don't know if you have seen my boat but the application of that drawing and Jig work may be of some assistance. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciate. Again awesome work beautifully done
God I wish you were still making videos on RUclips on how to build these more. Would really like to see your 1/10th scale Sprint car finished and running
Thanks for watching, but you might have me confused with someone else. I usually only work in 1/24 scale. I haven't done anything in 1/10.
Hi my name is Jeffrey Stokes I have been watching a video your work is amazing if you don't mind can you please tell the the name of the liquid flex that you use looks like good quality. Thank you so much. Form MR Jeffrey Stokes
Hi Jeffrey, thanks for watching. That flux is made by a company called "TIX" I get it from my hobby shop, or off of ebay.
Cool! I broke my PVC scratch build RC Rollcage several times,now its Brass time!
I would like to learn from You master… it’s so coool
Thank you!
Thumbs up for the great camera work and lack of music. I look forward to seeing how this turns out. Based on this video, I'd wager it'll be pretty awesome.
Where do you get the blueprints for the chassis
Ou se procurer les mesure d'un châssis midget 1/24
I built a smaller scale bicycle but used silver solder ( plumbers) and that was a pain, one mistake and I would scrap that part, lead solder would Have saved me on many parts. 🤪👍👍👍
I've heard if you plan on chrome plating your brass, it needs to be silver solder. All my frames get painted. And this solder is much easier to me to work with.
Turned out absolutely beautiful. Would be a shame to cover it with paint and body panels.
I left it just as it is, other than a coat of clear to keep it from tarnishing.
Love it, do you have a place to print out template and parts list.
Where did u get the container to hold your brass tubing
That looks amazing!! I want to try this but I'm pretty sure it won't turn out quit as nice as this! LOL
I'm sure you could pick it up pretty quick, Matt. If nothing else it is fun to practice!
Where can I get the printable jig from ?
My solder teacher would always scold me when I would solder like you are, ( transfer soldering ) he would get so mad 😡! “Why even use rosin core solder if your just transfer soldering.” Then he would say “And you know it’s against tech data!”. (JSTD 001)
I've heard others mention to heat the joint and feed the solder into it. That doesn't work as well doing this type of work. As you can see, you gotta work quick, and with very little solder. Hit the joint and get out there! Thanks for watching!
@@ClayKemp I still solder most of the time just like your doing, with flux and solder on the tip of the iron!! He would always say that (my teacher) but he never soldered as I would solder day in and day out! For years! Great work!
A master craftsman, exceptionally talented. Racing and sports cars with bird cage frames are very complex great tips on how too make them ,you make the frames look easy LOL 👍👍👍👍
I don't get it, where your brothers at?
I had an idea to make Leonardo da Vinci's flying machine at a jewelry size or possibly slightly larger. And I had planned on using Bass and nickel and silver. You got me thinking again🤔
Nice work. We do a lot brass scratch building in 28mm, 1/32, 1/35 and primarily of late in 1:22.5. Couple of years ago upgraded from 30+ years of Weller to Hako, never looked back absolutely love it only regret is not doing sooner. Use a lot of resistance soldering (American Beauty) and sometimes even use a hot air unit (X-Tronic) for soldering. The resistance soldering advantage is its super precise and very little cleanup 👍along w limiting heat affecting nearby joints. Cut a ton of short solder pieces ahead of time and soldering goes super fast. Sometimes we still have to use multi-temp solder if joints are super close. Ditto on using a metal plate jig and magnets (use a mix of low strength hobby magnets along w N42 & N52s), ours has two plates at 90 deg. to each other. Again, nice work! As always YMMV. Just sharing, nothing more, nothing less.
Hi Clay great video. I am about to start my first build of a 1/6 scale motorcycle. The frame will be constructed with various stainless steel tubes and rods between 1mm and 8mm. I was originally going to use silver solder and a torch but having watched your video my question is would your soldering iron technique be a better alternative ? Many thanks Tim
I've never tried to solder with stainless steel. I am not sure that would work or not? It may just fall apart. Unless there is a solder or some form of brazing that would hold it together. Worth trying anyway!
@@ClayKemp Thanks Clay I’m a bit impulsive and I’ve bought in the SS now so fingers crossed 😆 In hind sight I should have used brass tubes and nickel plated the finished frame oh well we live and learn. Thanks again.
Did the brass chassis while in Korea in 1968-69. Built the chassis for a Ford Cobra slot car, was a big thing back then. I was chassis challenged but, I had no parts outside wheels front, rear or sides, challenge denied, I was legal. Built two more before I left from spare parts. Great way to pass time, keeps your mind busy!
Absolutely beautiful and accurate cage. I’ve driven the tow truck and been on the safety crew at a dirt track for the last 15 years. I know people that would pay very good money for that model cage just to set it on their desk. Very good job! Are you building it as a Static or an RC?
Thanks Matt....I just build static models. This chassis was built just for the video.
@@ClayKemp you willing to sell it so one of us can micro RC it?
Un mot, un seul ! Bravo ! Non, ce n'est pas vrai.... d'autres ont suivis, comme formidable, magique ! J'ai aimé la précision (la vidéo grossissait les détails) et le travail fait ! Un seul truc m'a inquiété : Les doigts ! De ces doigts tout le monde n'en à pas de si méticuleux ! Il faut y faire attention ! Modéliste ferroviaire et modeste constructeur j'ai appris de cette vidéo. Merci ! Bonnes continuations, bonne fêtes de fin d'année et à bientôt De cordiales civilités Patrick (France)
hello you share the file to carry out the project
In the early 80s these frames were made for large scale scalectric cars and raced on large tracks in shopping centres.
I was given one, the type of chassis was a wompie
It's not a problem if you put a quiet song in background when soldier with asmr sounds.🥰
Thanks for the inspiring video Clay, I now have the confidence to work on my Landy projects to build a roof rack and rollcage.
How hard it will be to make a model car RC? Put a DC/BLDC motor inside the engine,put a small electronic inside the seats and it can be really great 👍
Cool! I'm hoping to apply this to 1/72 scale wwi aircraft.
great video, can i ask what kind of brush on flux your using thank you
The flux is made by Tix. I pick it up at my HobbyTown, or off of ebay. They make solder too, but I didn't have much luck with it. But the flux is excellent.
Where do you get your templates from
This flies in the face of YT viewers' obsession with craftsmanship applied to crap materials like popsicle sticks, cardboard, legos, etc. Well done.
Back in the 90's we built our own brass slot car chassis'. We used 1/25th scale race car model kit bodies on them. That is fun to build
Thats very cool, I made a 1/10th scale Midget chassis out of Brass about 10 Years ago, Was intending to make it RC but never finished it off. Still have the Chassis sitting on the shelf in the garage thou.
Bob East might have a job for you if you weld as good as you solder a chassis!
Nice work!
Amazingly satisfied
Nice build. Where did you get the plans?
I drew them myself in Adobe Illustrator. But there are all kinds of blueprints online if you search for what you are looking for. That's usually where I start.
What's that metal tray called or where do you purchase? I found them online but can't remember where. I build structures a lot and they would really help.. seems I remember them being overpriced but all the cool mini tools are.. Maybe it was in my Micromark wishbook.. I don't think a million would buy every tool in that book..
The metal piece I am working on is just a sheet of thin galvanized sheet metal. I found two sheets on ebay for under $10 I think..I just tape it down to the wood to work on. Doesn't need to be anything fancy, as long as the magnets hold your work down, you're set.
@@ClayKemp thanks. youre right, i try to finagle whatever whenever i can. i even made my own chopper which is way better than nwsl imo. it just looked like one i seen online that came with various magnets, squares and clamps. thanks for the info!
hey man well done bugy...
where do you get the patterns
Most impressive
i like your style
Awesome work Clay. I absolutely love watching your videos. Will there be a continuation of this build? would love to see all the step by steps of the entire process.
Thanks Ross...I don't think this one will go any further. But I may do a sprint car project in the future.
Masterfully done. I've been working with styrene for many years and at various points I have considered trying brass, however I just don't think I have the patience for it! Styrene is an extremely forgiving medium to work with, and like you say the principles and techniques are very similar, however with styrene you can work very fast. Nice soldering iron btw. :)
I built plastic frames for ever....I like the brass because it is strong, you can be so much more precise than with plastic when doing smaller braces and tabs. Plus it is fun to do more actual "fabricating" with brass.
how are you doing the template? this is something ive been wanting to try for a while
I do all my drawing and layout in Adobe Illustrator. I can scale everything to 1/24 scale and give myself an accurate set of plans to work with. Helps keep everything in scale.
Fantastic video.
I have always built all my military armor and now big rigs with brass built into their construction....I thought I was alone, til now.
Immediately SUBSCRIBED and impressed.
Thanks for watching, and the sub! I appreciate it.
Man you gotta make it rc
Yes sir.
Hi Clay, looks like this is going to be another great build. Will this be a Larson or sunshine or a mystery build? Well I really can't wait to see the rest. Thank you for taking time to video the build and your techniques. Never have tried a midget brass frame build, only done a front end steering gasser plastic model build. Used to build slot car chassis from scratch, kind of have an idea of what you are doing. Thanks and see you later.
Were can I get the planes for the build would love to have a crack at it
There are several midget chassis diagrams on google. That was where I started, then I just redrew them to fit the style of car I wanted to built.
in which program did you make the project?
Adobe Illustrator CC
Wow, Clay, this is going to be AMAZING!!!!
This is a cool thing you can do, I would like to try you inspire me thanks.
How do you solder something so close to another joint without the existing one coming apart? This is the stuff that drives me crazy when things get about half as complex as your frame.
One thing... you need a hot iron that you can heat, melt the solder, and get off the joint quickly. Also a wet rag on the nearby soldered joint. Flux (I use rosin, not acid flux).
Exactly. You gotta work quick. Alligator clips can also be used as heat sinks to draw the heat away. Or in my case, your fingers. :)
I want to make a good rock crawler frame to add my custom arduino controls to it. Do you know where i can find a schematic to make the frame with the same technique as yours? Or perhaps i have hand draw it myself. Great video!
I'm not sure if it would be strong enough to take the beating a rock crawler would have or not. YOu may need to pin the joints for extra strength.
@@ClayKemp yeasterday i made a couple of test and using regular solder i achieve a good joint. Rock crawlers have a good amount of flexibility due to the suspension. Im measuring the total weight to make the build as lightweight as possible to minimize the risk of stressing the joints.