You Missed The True #1 Mistake Friend As a Old Veteran Master Model Car Builders I Started Building At 11 years old in ,1973. Nearly Every Major Brand kit AMT, Monogram, Revell, MPC Stated on n Instructions Always Wash All parts in Warm Water and Dish Soap to Remove Mold Release Agent. Many actually Scrub with tooth Brush too from parts (Except Chrome & Tires) then then rinse with Warm Water. This makes Glue & Paint adhere Better. While not as Critical Today it's Still a Good Idea
A piece of advice I wish I knew when I started was to identify, and control the “completion high.” Jumping from one complete kit right into another build may lead to burnout, or silly/avoidable mistakes. I know the mantra is “never stop building.” But it’s ok to take breaks between models. Recoup, refresh, get new ideas, practice techniques. Then hit the next project.
Agreed. I was going to say something similar. A big mistake is being a quitter. I know so many guys who have huge stashes and jump to something new when they run into a problem. They never develop their skills, they have a pile of unfinished kits, and they generally just never follow through. I have been fortunate in being able to mentally push through problems, often learning A LOT while doing it. It's sad for me to see so many great guys quit so easily, wasting time, money and opportunities to learn.
I know a few guys at the club that build amazingly detailed models all the time. Every so often they will build an easy model " out of the box " . Just the model with a good paint job and no extras. They say it helps bring back the joy of building and stops the burnout from having to detail everything. I wish my detailed models looked as good as their simple ones lol.😂👍
I think your best tip was the last one. I'll never forget the second model I built as a kid. I got super, super impatient because I just wanted to get it done. It did not look good at all. I ended up buying the same kit again years later to do it again...the right way.
Started building models over 60 years ago but haven't built any in decades. I am amazed how far models have come over the years and the tools and accessories available. Although i no longer build, I enjoy watching videos like these. You do an excellent job communicating information. Always enjoy your stuff.....and your builds too.
@@oakfat5178 I can relate. I now do the 3D-printed thing. Usually, all I need to do is paint them. They lack the detail and customizability of the traditional 1/35 scale kits I made in my youth, however they are very convenient and fit my needs today. I posted above looking for painting tips - that's something I'm excited about (painting!).
Us too!--built them as a child, collected them for years. Now I am slowly dusting them off and unboxing, building and painting on our channel. It's fun to get back into it. Liked and subscribed.
Started building models when I was a kid in the 1960s. Back then the goal was get it done fast. Then go fly missions in the backyard before the sun went down when you could still smell the glue, and the decals were still wet. First one I painted was a little Revell Zero which ended up gold.
Brilliant! I have built kits for over 50 years now. You touch on so many of the mistakes I made in those early days. SO true! And the suggested glue and coats to use, etc., are spot on! You got this! I hope everyone starting out will watch this video. I would have saved so much time, and so many kits if I had seen it so many years ago!
It's also helpful to have everything in tact if you don't have a dedicated work area and you're building on the kitchen table and you need to put all the pieces back in the box until the next time you work on it.
Great video, and great advice. With more than 50 years of experience under my belt (and many awards), I hope you don't mind if I add a little. When you're cutting pieces off the sprue, be careful of flying parts. They can jump off and easily get lost in the, so called, 'carpet monster' - never to be seen again. With each of those tiny parts, take the time to clean up the sprue cut burs, and any mold seams. It's terrible to finish a seemingly perfect kit, only to discover that there's some unnatural blemish, in some odd location, caused by an imperfect clean-up job. Another challenge I still struggle with is determining when you're done. Either with the entire project, or with just one tiny phase. Although nothing is ever perfect, the more time you spend on even the tiniest step, the better your result will be. And don't be afraid to paint, repaint and touch-up repeatedly until you achieve the result you want.
My best lesson is: Never cut a part loose too closely. I've spent so much time fixing a nasty nick that I never snip too close... And I always remove the paint, clear or chrome coating from mating surfaces. It drives me nuts to see people gluing models together with glue between the paint, it will never create a good bond. 👍🏻👍🏻
Great beginner tips! I'd add 1.5: Wash the parts first. Manufacturer's spray silicone mold release agent onto the molds to help the plastic parts come away easily. Have you ever had a small part that the liquid plastic cement just won't stick, or do you find previously cemented parts sometimes fall off really easily? If you do that'll be silicone spray residue that prevents the cement melting the part. Try washing your parts in warm water and washing up liquid (not really hot water, the parts will warp)... no more glue that won't stick problems!😊 My other tip is to accept your limitations. There are some insanely good modellers on youTube... your first attempts could look pretty poor in comparison! That's to be expected, modelling is a skill that takes time to develop, so don't beat yourself up... just enjoy the process and let the quality improve over time. I'd also suggest keeping your first attempts no matter how bad they look to you, in less time than you'd think you'll be far more proficient at which point looking at your early efforts will make you see how much you've progressed... I bet you'll be pleasantly surprised!😊
Glad you said it, I am brand new to this and seeing other ppls masterpieces damn near made me just toss mine in the trash and quit immediately. Like wtf am I even doing? But I'll just press on and continue
@morningstar9317 I'm at least a year late answering you; you've probably realized this .. but I'll say it anyways, maybe it'll help others as well: Keep at it. Your first attempts may not work out like you want, but treat them as learning opportunities. Unless you simply give up or simply do not care, you WILL get better. I still get aggravated when a finished build didn't turn out quite right, the paint isn't perfect, a part droops slightly, and so on - but I've learned. I'm STILL learning.
Great advice. As a newb and therefore someone with no prior air brush experience whatsoever, the simplicity of the paint scheme was by far the biggest factor in my choice of first kit. For me this meant avoiding anything with any kind of camouflage. After much research I settled on the popular and inexpensive Tamiya 1/35 Panzer II. Build is almost complete and pretty much trouble free. Painting is to begin soon. I think it is important that the first few kits not only help to build skills but also help to build confidence and enthusiasm.
That ancient little 1/35 Tamiya Panzer II is a cracker for a beginner! Mind you, I just found one cheap about 5 years ago, and revisited it again 30 odd years after I built my first. Some of it is nostalgia, some of it is just purely fun to build, but a little champ, none the less! Edited. My phone is so used to “1/32“, it automatically changed 1/35 to 1/32 lol!
Great stuff. Regarding number 5, I had a metalwork teacher at school back in the late 70's who I remember giving virtually the same advice about not rushing things! I was into kit building back then but nearly 60 now and returning!
I'm a beginner, i bought a Revell kit like 5 days ago and i still inform myself about what i need to build it right, what i need to avoid doing etc etc. And yes, basically modelling is all about the process, i Saw a lot of vidéo about making a maquette hère and there and vert often people put a lot of effort in some things that will never be seen in the final production. But it's precisely this that make modélism good, work on a full model, know that every bit of that little thing was made by you
Started doing models in late 70's/ mostly stopped around '00-ish, & one great tip I learned (not a mistake as such) only a few years ago is to not cut fine pieces (antennas for example) right up against the sprue. The stresses caused by cutting may cause the part to break when being forced away from the anchor point (assuming the part is held @ 2 or more points). Cut a bit of the sprue off w/ the part, then trim it once the part is free. I wish I knew this when I was a teenager trying to repair broken tie rods (1/24 cars were my main passion) w/ a tube of good ol' Testors cement .
I recently restarted my scale model building hobby after a decades long hiatus. One thing I’ve learned is to practice my weathering and painting techniques on some styrene plastic sheets or a cheap model BEFORE I apply them to my principal model.
I have been modeling since 1975....EVERYTHING is so much easier now! Everything you pointed out is spot on. My biggest pet-peeve about myself is....I start A new kit and somewhere along the line.....I GET BORED with it! And of course...I buy and start A NEW ONE! Excellent video and you have A new subscriber...Thanks!
I've been building models off and on for over 40 years now.. Just a few years ago, got back into it.. I'm not a professional by any means.. especially when it comes to painting.. I joined a couple modeling groups on fb and have learned a lot.. But watching your video has helped me out in a few things I was doing wrong in regards to decals.. Thank you for this and look forward to watching more videos so that one day, maybe I can consider myself something more than a beginner... Well done sir...
Your advise on the beginner kits is so true. I remember starting with Matchbox 1:72 scale aircraft kits back in the late 70's. They were even molded in two colours. I loved the Mig 21 and Corsair kits. Some 46 years later, you still can build a decent model from these kits with some scratch build and aftermarket parts (specially wheels). Thanks for posting the video.
I was at a hobby store for the first time that specializes in this and I saw they had a vintage mig hotbox kit. That was one of the items that caught my eye and I actually pulled it out to take a look. I was about to purchase it but it since I’m just testing the waters I went light and got just a few things, sensory overload!
Modelling is definitely something that requires patience. I started building Pocher Alfa Romeo in 1/8th scale in the early 2000's, but stopped "temporarily" when my first son was born as I didn't have enough time. He turned 20 last year, and I have just started the process of finishing the model off this year. I've also got a 1/12th scale Airfix Bentley kit that my father got in 1974. It's still in the box waiting to be built. I'm hoping to get it completed this year before it's 50th birthday.
i've been building models for decades and i always feel i can learn something from another builder. Your vid was awesome, thanks and dont stop sharing those "ideas". you keep it simple enough for the novice and yet give enough info for the veteran builder like myself. Thanks for putting it out there.
As a returning modeler after a 30-year hiatus, these are some great tips that I had to relearn all over again.. things are so more advanced now. Thanks for posting!
Same situation here. Put them away many years ago (young, newly married, kids). Now kids are grown and I'm retired. I purchased many kits thru the years (too many), and have this urge to get busy. Started looking for the basic supplies, and suddenly felt kind of an anxiety by all the choices. And a lot of the ones I recognize are no longer available. Having fun catching up on whats new, and the anxiety is fading.
Tip number 4.5: Tamiya Airbrush cleaner is the exact same as the Thin Cement. The only difference is, you get a huge bottle of cleaner for $6-$7 so you spend less money and get more plastic cement. 🎉 The ingredient breakdown is the exact same. I think it was like 50% ammonia, as apposed to Thin Cements 49% 😂 JuanHidalgo Minitures does an entire video breaking down why they’re both virtually the same. Called “Get you’re Tamiya thin cement cheaper”
I've made so many mistakes and I've learned from each and everyone of them, that's how have I've grown as a modeler. It's one of the main reasons that I buy multiple copies of the kits I buy so that if I make a huge mistake that can be fixed then I can try with the other kit can hopefully to a much better the second time around. There's nothing that can't be fixed usually with a little hard work and a little know how. That's why I don't lose my mind when I do make a mistake. Great list and I glad I found your channel and yes I did subscribe so please keep up with awesome work and I promise to keep coming back for more and sharing your videos with as many people as I possibly can because in my humble opinion you definitely deserve more subscribers.
Same here. I used to cut grass in the neighborhood for a couple of dollars or pick up bottles and turn them in at the store for a nickel a piece. As soon as I got enough money I head out to the dime store and buy a model and some glue. I agree, It was good days!
I have built so many models like that when I was young. Today they take many months. The worst thing is I dont like little tiny models. You do all this work and you have a model the size of a match box. Bigger models you can do much more detail and when you done they look like something. Im 67 and still love to build them.
Definitely agree with no5 my biggest tip is if it's not going right put it away and come back to it another time, I have saved so much money and time doing this step by not wrecking a model
#5 CODA - Manage expectations. I think you alluded to this in talking about instant gratification, but the biggest thing with modeling is that there are a lot of skills to learn. You have to break a few eggs along the way, so don't expect your first few models to look like a YT streamer. Set the expectation that you will learn and grow as you continue in the hobby.
Having watched model evolve over the last 50 years, I would say this guy is spot on. I use everything and more from what he is discussing. Have fun, dont worry about mistakes as we all make mistakes.
I'd add a few points. First, if you're interested in a good non-toxic glue I'd suggest Plastruct Weldene (Plastic Weld) liquid cement. Although non toxic glues have a reputation for poor bonding characteristics, Weldene works quite well. Second, have an Exacto knive for cutting smaller more delicate pieces from sprues. You can also use modeling razors as well, which are cheap and disposable. Finally, although not addressed specifically in this video, I'd suggest older Tamyia kids from the 70s & 80s for beginning modelers. They have good fit, have few parts, simple clearly written instructions and, generally speaking, still look pretty accurate when built up.
I started model building in the early sixties. It was a Sopwith Camel biplane. The wing struts drove me crazy. I discovered early on how Important it was to have a dedicated space to work in. When I didn’t I was often pressured to hurry up and get my mess out of the way. Once I had dedicated space in my room for model building, I was able to take my time and have a much higher quality builds. Well done video tips of mistakes for beginners to avoid.
Great tips. I was in hobby lobby recently and a mom was going to buy her son a model kit. I actually covered a few of your points, especially about not using tube glues. I picked up a bottle of thin cement and told her the advantages. She was very thankful !
Nice video and great advice. The only thing I might argue around is mistake Nr 1. Choosing the right model. If you really, really want to build a big Spitfire, go for it. Yes, you might fail (likely), but your motivation is super high! Then you might buy a second big Spitfire and build it better. Of course, one can check out easier or more difficult big Spitfires to build, but still. Some folks work like this, and just might become great builders because of this. For others, they will not build anything more. I am not saying it is right, but it is a variant that works for some folks.
@@elliotgregory3356 Yes they did. Had to get my dad to put the tracks on they were so tricky. I can still smell the melted rubber from the hot knife he used to join them in place.
@@simonleib1992 That's right. And it always showed in my case! I believe Revell now has that back catalogue although I found an M24 Chaffe on eBay 4 years ago which was an original Matchbox one.
@@elliotgregory3356 I've been collecting classic matchbox models mainly aircraft but a few tanks also. Quite a few on ebay. I think you are right Revell took matchbox over.
Started modeling at around 7 yrs old now 68 yrs old have modeled my whole life so I have seen just about every stage of improvement. Glues, paints, kits, and tools have come a long way in the last 60 yrs.
I build hard plastic miniatures for war games; while I'll acknowledge that the Tamiya plastic cement is spectacular, I've found that Testors 3507AT Liquid Cement is pretty good too. It's got a fantastic pinpoint applicator, and a one bottle of the stuff has lasted me many years.
Excellent tips. A couple I would add. Choosing the right kit - get one where the parts are clean and fit well. Take Airfix for example, they might do two Spitfires, one from the classic range dating back to the 1979s and a recent one. The initial attraction of the classic one is that it is cheaper and will appear simpler - but that is a false economy because you will end up with parts that are misaligned, have lots of flash and don’t fit that well. The newer kit, will be more complex, have more parts, but will be cleaner and will fit better and ultimately will be a lot easier for a beginner to build. The second is cement - it is a good idea to have some thicker cement too, the Tamiya standard is good, in the same sort of bottle as the Tamiya thin, but is more viscous and has a larger brush. Where this comes in handy is joining big parts, like the wing halves of the B-17 on your wall. Trying to use Tamiya thin will be frustrating because it will evaporate and dry faster than you can apply to the whole service. The standard cement has a bigger brush, so you can apply more and is more viscous so stays wetter for longer. Of course you could tape the parts dry and wick in the then, but I consider that a more advanced technique and you have to be very careful because the tin cement can wick around the tape ruining the visible surfaces of your parts.
Interesting stuff! i built many models as a kid in the 80s. I’ve gone back and forth over getting back into models, but I’m sure now it’s gonna happen. Just getting my bearings again, and I actually have money. Thank you.
I made models as a kid between 1968 to 1980. I'm getting near retirement and excited to start all over again with all the modern tips, supplies and kits. I'll start with my dad's plane from WWII, the B-24D from HobbyBoss. Not the easiest kit but hopefully I'll do a good-enough job to remember him by.
I have been building models since 1960, and tip number 5 is likely the best tip any beginner can take to heart. Even today, as I build, I still have to discipline myself once all the sub assemblies begin to come together. There is the desire to see the results of my labor, but remember, the enjoyment is in journey, not just the destination. I have finished models that have been completed for over half a century. They are a treasure, yes, but as a reminder of the journey.
Thanks for all your amazing videos! I am 66 y/o, retired and just getting into modeling in a serious way. Yes, I built many models as a kid with that messy cement and painted with a brush. All OK but now I am ready to make models that look great. I have the Sherman and panther kits you suggested and I am now purchasing supplies and tools to build them. I also purchased two tamiya panzer ii light tank kits (they were $15 each) to use as practice/experimental kits to hone my skills and try out different painting/weathering techniques, so if I really mess up I am not out a lot of money and time on a kit. Not in a hurry, I want to make the right purchases for the long term. I am really into WWII panzers. Thanks again, love to see more airbrush techniques, especially cleaning when switching colors during a painting session. Modeling rocks!
Modeling does rock!! Thank you for your support & I'm glad the videos have been helpful. I love me some Panzers as well, of course. Some great options to choose from 👍
I have been building plastic kits for over 60 years. I remember vividly a birthday gift from my father at 17 which was an airfix Lancaster bomber in black plastic with 'pre-sanitised' (flaming engine, coming in to land after a night bombing mission) box artwork. It was on the sideboard and it stirred my imagination in ways that I retain to this day. I still have the model (amongst hundreds of others now) and although I probably made all the beginner mistakes you mention, it still looks pretty good today and the decals are still stuck fast. It reminds me of my father every time I look up (my model aircraft are suspended from the ceiling). I thought it would be a great idea to get another of the same models to build for my 67th birthday and got my wife to 'surprise' me on my birthday with the very same kit from ebay. Ironically I sourced it from ebay in Germany! There it was, flaming engines and all and 50 years on, my imagination was sparked in the very same way. I have not yet commenced the build as I have had plenty of others to go at and it will be interesting to compare the two when I have done it.
Wonderful advice Hank, thank you very much! One item I keep on my hobby bench is a small, super bright flashlight and it comes in really handy when I drop small parts onto the rug or hardwood floor. I really enjoy your videos for the techniques you share and also for all the cool gear you’ve got on the walls of your Mancave. Take care!
Here’s my favorite tip. ALWAYS buy more than one! I typically start off with 3 of the exact same model before I begin. There is nothing more frustrating than getting to a critical section only to find the manufacturer included a flawed or useless part. Along those lines, be sure to have many blank panels just in case you have to manufacture a piece…
Excellent video. Important stuff to know for beginners. Pitfalls like these can discourage new hobbyists. If I make a few comments, I believe you left out a couple of things. Sprue cutters are absolutely NOT the only things to use when removing parts. In some cases, the gate can be extremely close to a part. And if the part is particularly small, damage can occur from trying to actually place the tool between the part and the sprue. As well as the cutting process causing the damage. In some cases a very fine razor saw is best. An X-Acto (hobby knife) with a sharp blade can also be used. Tamiya glue is excellent. But I wouldn't call it the "industry standard". For the same price of the Tamiya, you can buy a quart of MEK (methyl ethyl keytone) which is just as good, if not better. In regards to painting, not all brands of paint, and clear coats/ varnishes can be used together. In modeling, there are few things worse than laying down paint, especially a challenging paint scheme, just to have the clear coat lift or craze your paint job. I suggest testing your paint and clear coat combinations on scrap styrene ahead of time. Thanks for reading, and for producing an excellent video.
Oh, and the other thing where you're a genius? The point number five you made on this video: do not rush. I literally have said that over and over again for all of my projects since I've listened to this video. It is so completely true, that I would put it at number one - and say it as a mantra. I have a lot of hobbies, painting, drawing, modeling in plastic, modeling wooden ships, historical board wargames, and even cooking. And your 'Do not Rush' should be in all of our minds for all of our endeavours.
My advice is to first set up a dedicated place where you can work on your models. Whether it be the kitchen table (not ideal) or a dedicated hobby desk(better) you need to have a place to keep your paints, supplies and tools. This will grow quickly when you're new, that's why the kitchen table won't work very well, in the long run. After you have a place to build ready to go, don't put a lot of money into the first few kits. Don't even worry about whether you get a good result or not on the first couple. I suggest buying a larger scale for the first few like 1/32 or 1/35. The pieces are going to generally be a little bit larger, less fiddly and less prone to breakage/losing them in the carpet, than if you go small scale like 1/72. Use your first kits as test beds to practice the basics of cutting parts from the sprue, cleaning them up, cement, puttying/gap filling, sanding, masking and canopy preparation, prep for decals, decals, paint and weathering. You need to understand how to work with enamels and how to work with acrylics. One is oil based, the other is water based. If at all possible, invest in a good airbrush and a good set of brushes. Learn how to use washes and pigments...I would also suggest building projects that are dissimilar...for example, build a tank, then build an airplane...you might find that you have a preference for one over the other. After a couple of beginner kits hopefully you have a basic idea of what you're doing now, so that 3rd kit or so, push yourself to a little bit more challenging kit....and my last word of advice, when you make a mistake, don't be discouraged, use it as an opportunity to come up with a solution. Maybe you can scratch build a part, or repaint, or whatever...there's very few mistakes in modeling that don't have a solution.
I am 70 and returning to scale kits after many decades. I am building the AMT Starship Enterprise NCC 1701. Not too many parts or difficult painting. Already I can see, from your video, what I’ve done wrong and will invest in a spru-cutter soon. My hobby dealer sold me a can of Tamiya mist-gray spray paint for the body. I think it looks way too dark, but he said the smaller kits (1/650) look better a bit darker. What does the community think?
I looove scalemates. I have been on it for years and as you, I look at every kit when it comes out. The timeline function is king. There you can see if a "New release" is garbage from the 1960s in a new package. love it
All my models were painted completely with testers brush on paint. No gloss or anything. I got pretty good at it but I do notice that no matter how good i got at brushing those decals had that silvering. Now keep in mind the last model I made was pre internet and I didn't have anyone to teach me..... anything. However I just found 12 WW2 airplane models at a VA benefit garage sale for 50¢ a piece! When snow locks me in im going to be ready this time with all the knowledge youtube can muster! Looking forward to modeling again by lantern light when the power goes out and the roads are closed! Love your channel buddy. Ty
Awhile back I started using a "Touch-N-Flo" cement applicator and it is now one of my FAVORITE tools. (The Deluxe Materials company makes a similar item they call a "pin flow applicator".) This is basically a small glass pipette with an extremely small stainless steel tube at the end. You just touch it to the joint and cement wicks into the joint and voila. And once you load it with cement, you can make many, many joints without having to keep going back to a cement jar and dipping into it like you have to do with a brush. It does require a little finesse to make sure you keep it clean an avoid clogging the tip with softened plastic. These are fine for any of the liquid cements like Tamiya, really any of the "styrene cements", Tenax 7R types of plastic welding cements (like Micro-Mark's "Same Stuff") and such.
Speaking as someone who wanted to get back into modelling after years, went nuts and bought a lot of kits, mainly as this was at the beginning of the pandemic and everyone else had the same idea, or they were on sale and worth the savings, it is a considerable investment in kits and equipment in doing it properly. You want to get it right without wasting too much money or screwing up too many kits in the process. So, I have a _lot_ in my stash and gradually building up my equipment inventory, but haven't so much as opened one box yet! It doesn't help watching videos by the gifted model makers and expecting those results first time. But, my mind keeps going back to the money issue. Of course I understand I can't be as good as they are, and that's taking weathering and all the other 'special effects' out of the equation, just thinking about putting it together and giving it a paint job to look like it did when it rolled out of the factory. I have since learned about a few of the techniques that had stumped me, but there is a list bigger than my stash waiting to be resolved. Does anyone else have this dilemma, or faced this before they bit the bullet and started? And how did you overcome it? Or will I be doomed to ruining a lot of kits, utterly destroying my $200 dream kit that breaks my heart each time I look at it on the shelf, before I eventually give up and sell the rest on eBay? I mean, I learned how to tile and rebuilt my bathroom first time and it's better than most pro jobs... but model building is way harder!
I think the best thing you can do is start working on kits! My goal for each build is to do it a little bit better than the last one. Small improvements each time. Practice makes progress, really! With each kit you complete, of course there will be some things you see and think to yourself "ah, I could have done that better...," but how would you know without taking the plunge, right? I totally understand not wanting to do a 'bad' job on expensive kits, so I'd recommend starting with some simpler kits (ideally under $50) to practice some techniques & then taking a shot at the bigger ones! Hope that helps - enjoy & happy building! 🍻
@Tom Stamford - I’m in a very similar situation to you. Started modelling after a 25+ year hiatus. My problem isn’t starting the kit, it’s getting it finished! In five years I’ve started about twenty kits but I don’t have a single one fully completed yet. In most cases it’s the painting that makes me anxious: I want the thing to be perfect, too perfect. And all these beautiful paint-jobs on youtube just make it seem so unattainable! One solution I’ve found is to rework or ‘tart up’ some of my old childhood models, or better still to buy some junk models on eBay. If they’re cheap enough there’s no stress. In most cases they’re already ruined, so any change I make to them is an improvement. It’s a great way to practice airbrushing and to find that confidence I had 25+ years ago. Hoping to get one finished fairly soon 😊.
Another tip, when you’re out of Tamiya extra thin cement, buy their Airbrush cleaner instead. It’s basically the same stuff and it works fantastic, just found that out.
#5 is very important. After ripping through my first kits, I now put emphasis on building the best result I can. Letting a gloss coat dry for 2 days can be annoying, but it's worth it. Adding additional detail may be a time consuming challenge, but it's worth it in the end. Look at better builders here and copy what they do. And with the cost of all things on the rise, doubling the time for assembling a kit cuts costs for kits per period in half. You build one kit in the same time you would otherwise maybe build two, you have to buy and pay for. The materials like glue and paint aren't such a cost factor for one or two models. Very helpful tip, thanks.
I'm on my 2nd model in my lifetime in my 40s. The 1st was only maybe 7 years ago. I had a crash course from an older gentleman that owned an independent hobby store that unfortunately has closed down after decades of business. It wasnt awful, but not exactly anything to make me go "ahhhhh". That was a revell p47 bubble top. I didn't really do any research before purchasing the Academy B25D I'm working on now, but took lessons from mistakes made from my 1st into this one, and I'm doing much better and much smoother with more confidence. 1st step was a pilots control gauges decal so I had to watch a video to do it right and got the clearcoat and successfully installed it. I was impressed off the bat lol. Better detail brushes and more patience with the painting. I've learned to make myself walk away while things are drying, be it glue or paint, before I get too ahead of myself working on multiple pieces at a time. Idk how bad it is, but for super hard pieces to glue together, small pieces with minimal contact to glue to, I've used a little gorilla super glue, just enough for an instant stick, then xacto blade trim any excess or simply paint over it blend in but so far only on parts that aren't easily visible, like interior parts. Look great so far but I need to look up stronger faster setting cement for the more visible areas as I wont want use the super glue where precision matters. I have the tamiya quick set thin and regular thin but my shake hands make it hard to hold some parts together long enough. I do have tweezers and an overhead lamp which is very important
Brilliant. I have signed up for the 1/35 perks simply because you're so good. I thank you for giving back to the community. I have come back from a decades long hiatus. Even your beginner information is much needed.
Tip 1b) After receiving the model read through the instructions complete before you start building. Tip 2b) There are sprue cutters and "sprue cutters". Do your research. A good sprue cutter should have a chisel nose (sharp). a narrow head, and a flat cutting surface. The Tamiya MH21D is pricey but brilliant, you can get some good cheap side cutters from most hardware stores. However Tip 5a) - if you are doing something small and fiddly (tank tracks/ painting figures) and you find yourself getting frustrated it is time for a cup of tea(coffee) or a break. A 15 to 20 minutes break will be all you need. Tip 6, dry fit before applying glue. Some older kits are not as precise and the pieces might need some cleaning up to fit properly. Also don't build when you are tired - you are more likely to make mistakes.
The adventure is all about the studying of instructions, parts clean up, dry testing fitting of parts, careful assembly, glue seam removal, painting, decalling and other finishing to the model. I personally love the weathering process to give a model that sense of being used and sometimes neglected. Oil stains, grime, paint chips, heat stress lines, salt marks you name it it can be weathered onto a model.
As a young model maker i agree with everything said on this video ive got 3 models f 35 spitfire and a sea harrier the harrier im doing now and im just doing the bombes missles and painting ive done EVERYTHING on this list and i agree 👍👍👍
Nice! More or less my top five but your delivery and the details you provide are superior to my own. I do add these tips: 1. Think about making a 1/48 or better, 1/32 scale model. If you are like me, super small parts are tricky to handle, even if you are using tweezers. 2. Invest in a basic tool kit. All of $15 and it makes life so much easier. 3. When you open the kit, find the parts diagram, and lay out the sprues. Hold off on removing the parts -- just compare them to the diagram. Know what's what! Many of the small parts need to be assembled to look like something recognizable (for instance, an engine), but they look like tiny doo-dads to start with. One thing I do: remove associated parts and put them in a plastic baggy, then label the baggy. 2. Go light on the glue. A little bit will hold. 3. Understand sanding: what grit of sandpaper to use, and what a sanding block is and how to use it. As it is with glue, go easy. 4. Set a goal and stop, particularly if drying time is needed for glue or paint. Slow and steady -- don't go on a 3-hour long assembly binge. You will get a better result. 5. Consider an airbrush. If that is reaching too far, okay, and you can go to spray paint. But bear in mind that what you want is a fine mist, not a heavy spray. Shake that can! Make sure the nozzle is clean, and spray from 12 inches away. Experiment a little, maybe with one of the sprues. Or turn over a part and practice spraying that way (when assembled, that side of the part is invisible so your painting experiment is, too). Bear in mind when selecting paint that you have the choice of flat, semi-gloss, or gloss. Think about what sort of finish is appropriate for the model. 6. Speaking of finish...compare the kit's instructions for paint colors with what is on the box. They aren't always the same! But if they are, is that what you want the model to look like? Maybe do a little research -- go online and check out the images. A current example: I live in San Diego and I want to get my scale model of the original WW II Corsair airplane to look exactly as it did when it left port here on carriers in 1943. But guess what? The plane on the box looks authentic, yes, but the paint job is tricked up and there are too many markings (decals in the model kit). The nice thing about this? It's actually less work. I am painting less and using only half of the decals.
I had bought a 1/48 kit of the Handley Paige Halifax. The only model of that aircraft at that size. Reading more on it found it was a total dog sbd ended up selling it. Another tool to remove small parts off a Sprue tree is using the small sawtooth blade on an x-acto handle. The snips that he recommends can cause bulging that will distort or bend delicate parts. Slowly sawing the tree connectors works fine and you can save the part from bending or breaking.
I kinda bought a kit on a whim with a few things like a few brushes, cement, paint, and the kit itself. I think I’ll go get a exacto knife and some fine grit sand paper and bust it out over the weekend. Nice video
At 61 yrs of age l tried modelling again. Bad eye sight,shaky hands the list goes on. I used to love doing 1/28 scales in WWll vintage war planes. What a rewarding experience. Good video. Nothing to add.
Ive did afew of these mistakes for my very first kit, just saw a model kit and bought it without any research, luckily it was an easy set though it didnt come with any paint or glue, ill avoid making more mistakes by not rushing my spitfire and getting a clear coat on it before adding the decals
Good job. You're the first 'How To' video to mention #5. Dont rush! You're not kidding with that one. Slow down, let it dry over night. If you feel like you're moving too fast STOP! Build the next section or start on another model! I build models for a living, 28 years full time. I'm always working on two models at a time. Occassionally I will check out a 'How To video just incase I might learn something new, we never stop learning. You gave good advice. Thank you.
I'm just picking up modelling after a break of like 40+ years and this video was so helpful. I've jusr ordered the cutters, varnish,glue you recommended and my 1st kit (the jeep kit!). Thank you.
i just spent $70 on a pair of godhand singleblade side cutters and its such a game changer. the cheapo snips work, but the god hands make the clean up so much easier.
I use diagonals for bigger part of the sprue, i do that to get to some small pieces hard to get to without snapping them. I use tube glue for bigger pieces like a ship hull or fuselage. Different glues for different needs.
Great tips! I've been building models for 12+ years and this still helped me. I've never used that particular cement (will try it now) and I've never cleared before decals but that makes alot of sense. Also not rushing is a big thing. I often try to rush the final assembly and it has resulted in some terrible mistakes in the end. Thanks for the wise words
I was addicted to plastic models as a kid, I made all the mistakes you mentioned, but still had a great time. But I must admit, the results were often less than stellar...lol
I spent nearly all of my pocket money on plastic kits. And then spent nearly all of the holidays building them! It was wonderful. I was just starting to get good when I discovered backpacking and girls…
Started in the 60's and into the 70's. Monogram, Airfix, Planes, Aurora armor kits, some of the early Tamiya and Hasegawa armor also. Got interested in girls, beer, etc. Now, am 62 and I could retire. My wife said "you need a hobby. something to do". I said I used to build models. She said get into that! Wish I had advice like this way back then, but then I was a kid and wanted to see the finished product.
I'm a long haul flatbed trucker; have been for 40 years now. 4 years ago, I fell and shattered my left leg (the clutch leg).. I was off the road for the better part of a year. I needed SOMETHING to do - a hobby. I got into model cars and trucks, something I hadn't done in almost 50 years. And I like it. A LOT. I'm now looking at disability because of the leg. It's leaving me a lot of bench time; and I'm starting to tackle BIG ideas - I'm fixing to start a 34 Ford pickup - chopping the cab, putting in a fully blown Ford big block, lowered, 4 link rear end clip, and that's for starters!!
As a beginner a great tip is don’t get discouraged. The first few aren’t going to look like the box or what you see on you tube. It takes time and practice to refine your skills and that’s ok. Like anything stick with it and it will come around. One other tip I learned early on, study the instructions and make a plan. Don’t hesitate to write on them to mark colors or parts you may need to remember. My kit instructions look like a kid wrote all over them, but it works for me.
All good tips and yes, these are a few of the mistakes I made when younger, EXCEPT for using TESTORS glue in a tube which I have always used and will only use. Way back in the mid 1960s, starting with my first models at age 5 or 6, Testors styrene cement was pretty much the only game in town...so I got used to it's properties as the decades past, such as it's wonderful NO DRIP NO RUN THICKNESS. Unlike watery stuff (including super runny gap filling crazy glue...which goes everywhere it likes to and stops running only when it wants to....and has RUINED many a beautifully prepped part), TESTORS goes EXACTLY where I put it, in exactly the amount I want, and no place else EVER, as well as having a much much longer "tack" time, (before it sets), than the watery stuff, allowing you to slowly take the time you need to position your parts EXACTLY the way you want them, and inspect them at length and shift or slide them around a bit if needed, before you decide you are satisfied, and clamp, tape, or set them aside to dry. After using TESTORS for over 50 years , I know EXACTLY what to expect from it...and I NEVER have any runny drippy overglued bad surprises or ruined parts. Testors is very high quality glue whos bonding strength ROCKS. It's my favorite by far and I will ONLY use TESTORS. Just sayin'...
Both old school Testors orange tube and Tamiya extra thin have places in my modeling tackle box... along with old school CA as well. That said, I can ruin any part at any time... glue type isn't the problem in that regard... lol.
Good stuff, thank ya !! And may I add ? Chose the proper kit- cars, tanks, planes, sci-fi ? Nah. Get into the most rewarding sub-genre of model kits. Warships !!... I have read that Tamiya's 1:350 USS FLETCHER is a great introductory model ship kit. As for myself ? My mother bought Revell's 1:570 TITANIC kit for me, my 1st kit ever- in 1976. 47 years later ? I am still at it building 1:700th scale kits. My current is Spanish Rebublican light cruiser LIBERTAD (a resin & photo etch kit- a true beauty !!), made by Five Star. Perk up some coffee, listen to the Phillies game & working on my kit ? Heaven !! 🚬😎👍
I just wanna say thank you for helping see what all I was doing wrong, I really wanna get into this stuff and do it the right way, glad I stopped by to watch this
I used to build scale models as a kid. Picking the hobby back up and getting started again with some Tamiya kits. Question for anyone who can give feedback. Is it still necessary to wash all the part sprues upon unboxing the model? I know this was needed on older kits, and resin parts, but is it still needed on todays modern plastic model kits? I always wipe down the larger assemblies with alcohol or water and soap before painting, but is it necessary to wash them out of the box before starting the build?
Not usually. If I have handled a model a lot while building, and I think it might have oil from my hands, I will wipe it over with some diluted alcohol.
Thanks for spending the time to put this video together. I’ve only just started getting into model building (leaning towards rc models) and I feel I am meditating when I do it. So awesome.
I do a fair amount of scratch building as well as restoration of old junkers. Tip #5 is so true. Often, there are no instructions in my work. You need to go slowly. There are times when your brain has to solve procedural challenges. Some of my models are over 60 years old. If you plan on keeping your work to enjoy down across the years, they are worth your loving care and time. Remember, it's not all about the destination, the journey builds memories.
Great tips, I am not a beginner, but still watch videos like this to see what I am missing regarding new tools and techniques. Regarding the clear coat, have you ever tried Pledge 'future' or 'revive' floor polish for the clear coat? I use it all the time, it works great, cost 10 bucks for a bottle that lasts for YEARS, and goes through an air brush or paint brush very easily. I only use it for my working layers, as in pre weathering / decals, etc... and then use a more robust lacquer or acrylic flat for my final finish, but it is great for 'saving your work' and preventing silvering. It also works great for making plane canopies shine. But it certainly leads into your best tip of all, patience! The more clear coats we do for various reasons the more it slows down the project. That is when the ability to multitask is helpful.
I have had a lot of success with Pledge as well! It was my go-to gloss coat before I started using the AK Gauzy (which is the best gloss I've ever worked with - I'll be hard-pressed to switch it up unless something amazing comes along). But definitely - the Pledge is a wonderful product & saves a lot of cash 👍
It may sound like blasphemy to many, but I'd argue that you don't always need to use a clear coat before the decal steps. Clear coats are difficult to apply since they are clear and can leave bad finishes if not applied properly such as orange peel or a chalky look. Main point being it takes a lot of practice to put down a good clear coat. I've put decals on a flat surface and had no issues with silvering. Other youtube modellers such as Michael Rinaldi and Wil Patterson subscribe to this approach. I'm not saying it's wrong to put down a clear coat, but I wouldn't say it's a mistake beginner's make. If a beginner can learn other decal techniques (using Mirco Set and Sol or the other Brand name setters), they can probably achieve good results without the clear coat.
Still patient with my tamiya wrc subaru model, I am just starting on the other half of the kit in 4 months, it can be so relaxing sometimes, started modeling from 10 yo so 4 years in total, this hobby comes from familys generaions.
I started building models again and after watching some scale modeling channels I entirely changed my game and got wayyyyy batter results with liquid cement, primer, clearcoat, panel scribe, line accent paint, and a Molotow chrome pen.
I still use the tube cement for certain parts that don't show as much like engine halves. Most times they get covered up by other parts and paint, or you don't see them at the end. Everything else is put together with Tamiya ultra thin.
One thing I would add. Thing about what order to paint things in and whether to paint certain parts "before" assembly. Paint the inside parts of the cockpit before assembly, sometimes even on the sprues . Likewise, small external parts like Jerry cans, Road wheels etc. You are never going to gain adequate access to paint those correctly once the thing has been put together, and yet there are still so many videos out there of a fully constructed kit being airbrushed top to toe. Silly.
That is what I am running into since I am working on my first kit. I’m looking for order of operations. Build/glue, prime, Paint inside then out, clear coat, decals, weather, varnish.
wife got me a Tamiya chieftain for a xmas gift. last time i did a model was 1984 and it was a tamiya king tiger. i see things have changed on glue so i got Mr.cement thin. not many stores around here. painting with a brush still. I did buy a emory stick since i broke rule #2. i do have a Xacto knife kit from the 70's on the fine parts though. Blades are still sharp. Great video & tips. working on my weathering now & making a camo net out of gauze. Testors back the 70's was easily bought back then for glue & paint. She did get me Xf-5 paint from amazon & i bought a testors 6 pack of military colors.
50 years modelling for me & your spot on - yes there are others but this is a great start. For me 1/32nd WW2 Aircraft 5 scratch builds with the last 2 ( 100% including making the decals) built together t took 9 years.
Any tips for painting 3D-printed models? I no longer have the motivation to build 1/35 scale models as I did in my youth, however I am stoked about the myriad of 3D-printed offerings available today, including customized models. I'm building quite a collection of WW2 AFV's in 1/32 scale and I want to get started painting them. What is recommended for primer coats? Are acrylics best? What works, what doesn't? How can I get optimal results?
Any mistakes you think I missed? Let's hear them in the comments! 👇
the mane thing i tell brand new builders is "have fun, don't worry about how it comes out . just have fun.
Or forget to put the cap back on 😣
The most common mistake is gluey styrene finger prints especially on clear parts
You Missed The True #1 Mistake Friend As a Old Veteran Master Model Car Builders I Started Building At 11 years old in ,1973. Nearly Every Major Brand kit AMT, Monogram, Revell, MPC Stated on n Instructions Always Wash All parts in Warm Water and Dish Soap to Remove Mold Release Agent. Many actually Scrub with tooth Brush too from parts (Except Chrome & Tires) then then rinse with Warm Water. This makes Glue & Paint adhere Better. While not as Critical Today it's Still a Good Idea
@@memorylanemodelcars Amen.
A piece of advice I wish I knew when I started was to identify, and control the “completion high.” Jumping from one complete kit right into another build may lead to burnout, or silly/avoidable mistakes. I know the mantra is “never stop building.” But it’s ok to take breaks between models. Recoup, refresh, get new ideas, practice techniques. Then hit the next project.
That's a great point! Thanks for sharing!
Agreed. I was going to say something similar. A big mistake is being a quitter. I know so many guys who have huge stashes and jump to something new when they run into a problem. They never develop their skills, they have a pile of unfinished kits, and they generally just never follow through. I have been fortunate in being able to mentally push through problems, often learning A LOT while doing it. It's sad for me to see so many great guys quit so easily, wasting time, money and opportunities to learn.
@@shawnshuler2286 spot on brother
I know a few guys at the club that build amazingly detailed models all the time. Every so often they will build an easy model " out of the box " . Just the model with a good paint job and no extras. They say it helps bring back the joy of building and stops the burnout from having to detail everything. I wish my detailed models looked as good as their simple ones lol.😂👍
@@darrinwatts3419 actually a really good idea I never thought about! lol
I think your best tip was the last one. I'll never forget the second model I built as a kid. I got super, super impatient because I just wanted to get it done. It did not look good at all. I ended up buying the same kit again years later to do it again...the right way.
Started building models over 60 years ago but haven't built any in decades. I am amazed how far models have come over the years and the tools and accessories available. Although i no longer build, I enjoy watching videos like these. You do an excellent job communicating information. Always enjoy your stuff.....and your builds too.
Thanks very much - I really appreciate the support!
I'm the same, although the reason I began watching modelling clips was thinking maybe I'd have a go at another one some day.
@@oakfat5178 I can relate. I now do the 3D-printed thing. Usually, all I need to do is paint them. They lack the detail and customizability of the traditional 1/35 scale kits I made in my youth, however they are very convenient and fit my needs today. I posted above looking for painting tips - that's something I'm excited about (painting!).
@@jefesalsero That sounds like a good direction to go in.
Us too!--built them as a child, collected them for years. Now I am slowly dusting them off and unboxing, building and painting on our channel. It's fun to get back into it. Liked and subscribed.
You forgot step 3.5! DO NOT SPILL THE TAMIYA CEMENT!!
Hahah yeah that's never fun! 😅 a worthy amendment, thank you 👍
Oh my god I spilled Tamiya black panel line color all over a model once it was horrible
Yep, did that myself:P
Ive spilled it twice and it removed the white lines on my cutting mat and stunk the room up pretty good
Jesus! That sucks, I have done that a few times! Never ruined a model but have had to order another bottle(s).
Started building models when I was a kid in the 1960s. Back then the goal was get it done fast. Then go fly missions in the backyard before the sun went down when you could still smell the glue, and the decals were still wet. First one I painted was a little Revell Zero which ended up gold.
Brilliant! I have built kits for over 50 years now. You touch on so many of the mistakes I made in those early days. SO true! And the suggested glue and coats to use, etc., are spot on! You got this! I hope everyone starting out will watch this video. I would have saved so much time, and so many kits if I had seen it so many years ago!
Also a tip I would like to share: do NOT cut off all the parts off a sprue. You will have a hard time remembering what number belonged to what part.
Fair point!!
Also helps as a second "hand" holding a piece if you have to glue two teeeeny tiny parts together. :)
Toenail clippers
It's also helpful to have everything in tact if you don't have a dedicated work area and you're building on the kitchen table and you need to put all the pieces back in the box until the next time you work on it.
They’re called flush cuts.
Great video, and great advice. With more than 50 years of experience under my belt (and many awards), I hope you don't mind if I add a little. When you're cutting pieces off the sprue, be careful of flying parts. They can jump off and easily get lost in the, so called, 'carpet monster' - never to be seen again. With each of those tiny parts, take the time to clean up the sprue cut burs, and any mold seams. It's terrible to finish a seemingly perfect kit, only to discover that there's some unnatural blemish, in some odd location, caused by an imperfect clean-up job.
Another challenge I still struggle with is determining when you're done. Either with the entire project, or with just one tiny phase. Although nothing is ever perfect, the more time you spend on even the tiniest step, the better your result will be. And don't be afraid to paint, repaint and touch-up repeatedly until you achieve the result you want.
Some very good points for sure - thank you for adding to the list! 🍻
My best lesson is: Never cut a part loose too closely. I've spent so much time fixing a nasty nick that I never snip too close... And I always remove the paint, clear or chrome coating from mating surfaces. It drives me nuts to see people gluing models together with glue between the paint, it will never create a good bond. 👍🏻👍🏻
oh! how true!!
I use masking tape to secure smaller parts while I cut them off the sprue. My carpet monster is very, very well-fed.
@@MGower4465 I try to cut parts inside the model kit box itself.
Great beginner tips! I'd add 1.5: Wash the parts first. Manufacturer's spray silicone mold release agent onto the molds to help the plastic parts come away easily. Have you ever had a small part that the liquid plastic cement just won't stick, or do you find previously cemented parts sometimes fall off really easily? If you do that'll be silicone spray residue that prevents the cement melting the part. Try washing your parts in warm water and washing up liquid (not really hot water, the parts will warp)... no more glue that won't stick problems!😊
My other tip is to accept your limitations. There are some insanely good modellers on youTube... your first attempts could look pretty poor in comparison! That's to be expected, modelling is a skill that takes time to develop, so don't beat yourself up... just enjoy the process and let the quality improve over time. I'd also suggest keeping your first attempts no matter how bad they look to you, in less time than you'd think you'll be far more proficient at which point looking at your early efforts will make you see how much you've progressed... I bet you'll be pleasantly surprised!😊
Glad you said it, I am brand new to this and seeing other ppls masterpieces damn near made me just toss mine in the trash and quit immediately. Like wtf am I even doing? But I'll just press on and continue
Also good to wash off mold release for better paint adhesion.
@morningstar9317 I'm at least a year late answering you; you've probably realized this .. but I'll say it anyways, maybe it'll help others as well:
Keep at it. Your first attempts may not work out like you want, but treat them as learning opportunities. Unless you simply give up or simply do not care, you WILL get better. I still get aggravated when a finished build didn't turn out quite right, the paint isn't perfect, a part droops slightly, and so on - but I've learned. I'm STILL learning.
Great advice. As a newb and therefore someone with no prior air brush experience whatsoever, the simplicity of the paint scheme was by far the biggest factor in my choice of first kit. For me this meant avoiding anything with any kind of camouflage. After much research I settled on the popular and inexpensive Tamiya 1/35 Panzer II. Build is almost complete and pretty much trouble free. Painting is to begin soon. I think it is important that the first few kits not only help to build skills but also help to build confidence and enthusiasm.
That's great! The Panzer II is a wonderful little kit - I thoroughly enjoyed building mine up 👍
That ancient little 1/35 Tamiya Panzer II is a cracker for a beginner! Mind you, I just found one cheap about 5 years ago, and revisited it again 30 odd years after I built my first. Some of it is nostalgia, some of it is just purely fun to build, but a little champ, none the less!
Edited. My phone is so used to “1/32“, it automatically changed 1/35 to 1/32 lol!
Great stuff. Regarding number 5, I had a metalwork teacher at school back in the late 70's who I remember giving virtually the same advice about not rushing things! I was into kit building back then but nearly 60 now and returning!
I'm a beginner, i bought a Revell kit like 5 days ago and i still inform myself about what i need to build it right, what i need to avoid doing etc etc. And yes, basically modelling is all about the process, i Saw a lot of vidéo about making a maquette hère and there and vert often people put a lot of effort in some things that will never be seen in the final production. But it's precisely this that make modélism good, work on a full model, know that every bit of that little thing was made by you
Started doing models in late 70's/ mostly stopped around '00-ish, & one great tip I learned (not a mistake as such) only a few years ago is to not cut fine pieces (antennas for example) right up against the sprue. The stresses caused by cutting may cause the part to break when being forced away from the anchor point (assuming the part is held @ 2 or more points). Cut a bit of the sprue off w/ the part, then trim it once the part is free. I wish I knew this when I was a teenager trying to repair broken tie rods (1/24 cars were my main passion) w/ a tube of good ol' Testors cement .
I recently restarted my scale model building hobby after a decades long hiatus. One thing I’ve learned is to practice my weathering and painting techniques on some styrene plastic sheets or a cheap model BEFORE I apply them to my principal model.
I have been modeling since 1975....EVERYTHING is so much easier now! Everything you pointed out is spot on. My biggest pet-peeve about myself is....I start A new kit and somewhere along the line.....I GET BORED with it! And of course...I buy and start A NEW ONE! Excellent video and you have A new subscriber...Thanks!
Yeah, to the aggravation of my wife, I have about a hundred like that....
I've been building models off and on for over 40 years now.. Just a few years ago, got back into it.. I'm not a professional by any means.. especially when it comes to painting.. I joined a couple modeling groups on fb and have learned a lot.. But watching your video has helped me out in a few things I was doing wrong in regards to decals.. Thank you for this and look forward to watching more videos so that one day, maybe I can consider myself something more than a beginner... Well done sir...
Your advise on the beginner kits is so true. I remember starting with Matchbox 1:72 scale aircraft kits back in the late 70's. They were even molded in two colours. I loved the Mig 21 and Corsair kits. Some 46 years later, you still can build a decent model from these kits with some scratch build and aftermarket parts (specially wheels). Thanks for posting the video.
I was at a hobby store for the first time that specializes in this and I saw they had a vintage mig hotbox kit. That was one of the items that caught my eye and I actually pulled it out to take a look. I was about to purchase it but it since I’m just testing the waters I went light and got just a few things, sensory overload!
Modelling is definitely something that requires patience. I started building Pocher Alfa Romeo in 1/8th scale in the early 2000's, but stopped "temporarily" when my first son was born as I didn't have enough time. He turned 20 last year, and I have just started the process of finishing the model off this year. I've also got a 1/12th scale Airfix Bentley kit that my father got in 1974. It's still in the box waiting to be built. I'm hoping to get it completed this year before it's 50th birthday.
Very nice! I hope you get a chance to finish them, too! 👍
i've been building models for decades and i always feel i can learn something from another builder. Your vid was awesome, thanks and dont stop sharing those "ideas". you keep it simple enough for the novice and yet give enough info for the veteran builder like myself. Thanks for putting it out there.
As a returning modeler after a 30-year hiatus, these are some great tips that I had to relearn all over again.. things are so more advanced now. Thanks for posting!
Thanks for watching & welcome back!
Same situation here. Put them away many years ago (young, newly married, kids). Now kids are grown and I'm retired. I purchased many kits thru the years (too many), and have this urge to get busy. Started looking for the basic supplies, and suddenly felt kind of an anxiety by all the choices. And a lot of the ones I recognize are no longer available.
Having fun catching up on whats new, and the anxiety is fading.
Not just a video for beginners, but a good reminder for even a veteran model builder.
Tip number 4.5: Tamiya Airbrush cleaner is the exact same as the Thin Cement. The only difference is, you get a huge bottle of cleaner for $6-$7 so you spend less money and get more plastic cement. 🎉
The ingredient breakdown is the exact same. I think it was like 50% ammonia, as apposed to Thin Cements 49%
😂
JuanHidalgo Minitures does an entire video breaking down why they’re both virtually the same. Called “Get you’re Tamiya thin cement cheaper”
I've made so many mistakes and I've learned from each and everyone of them, that's how have I've grown as a modeler. It's one of the main reasons that I buy multiple copies of the kits I buy so that if I make a huge mistake that can be fixed then I can try with the other kit can hopefully to a much better the second time around. There's nothing that can't be fixed usually with a little hard work and a little know how. That's why I don't lose my mind when I do make a mistake. Great list and I glad I found your channel and yes I did subscribe so please keep up with awesome work and I promise to keep coming back for more and sharing your videos with as many people as I possibly can because in my humble opinion you definitely deserve more subscribers.
I'm 68 and can remember putting together many 2 dollar AMT car kits with a 20 cent tube of cement. Good days.
Right there with ya, bro. I'm 69.
Same here. I used to cut grass in the neighborhood for a couple of dollars or pick up bottles and turn them in at the store for a nickel a piece. As soon as I got enough money I head out to the dime store and buy a model and some glue. I agree, It was good days!
I'm trying to negotiate a modeling world without Monogram and Testors.
I have built so many models like that when I was young. Today they take many months. The worst thing is I dont like little tiny models. You do all this work and you have a model the size of a match box. Bigger models you can do much more detail and when you done they look like something. Im 67 and still love to build them.
Definitely agree with no5 my biggest tip is if it's not going right put it away and come back to it another time, I have saved so much money and time doing this step by not wrecking a model
#5 CODA - Manage expectations. I think you alluded to this in talking about instant gratification, but the biggest thing with modeling is that there are a lot of skills to learn. You have to break a few eggs along the way, so don't expect your first few models to look like a YT streamer. Set the expectation that you will learn and grow as you continue in the hobby.
Definitely! Good point
Having watched model evolve over the last 50 years, I would say this guy is spot on. I use everything and more from what he is discussing. Have fun, dont worry about mistakes as we all make mistakes.
I'd add a few points. First, if you're interested in a good non-toxic glue I'd suggest Plastruct Weldene (Plastic Weld) liquid cement. Although non toxic glues have a reputation for poor bonding characteristics, Weldene works quite well. Second, have an Exacto knive for cutting smaller more delicate pieces from sprues. You can also use modeling razors as well, which are cheap and disposable. Finally, although not addressed specifically in this video, I'd suggest older Tamyia kids from the 70s & 80s for beginning modelers. They have good fit, have few parts, simple clearly written instructions and, generally speaking, still look pretty accurate when built up.
Some great points - thank you!
I started model building in the early sixties. It was a Sopwith Camel biplane. The wing struts drove me crazy. I discovered early on how Important it was to have a dedicated space to work in. When I didn’t I was often pressured to hurry up and get my mess out of the way. Once I had dedicated space in my room for model building, I was able to take my time and have a much higher quality builds.
Well done video tips of mistakes for beginners to avoid.
Great tips. I was in hobby lobby recently and a mom was going to buy her son a model kit. I actually covered a few of your points, especially about not using tube glues. I picked up a bottle of thin cement and told her the advantages. She was very thankful !
Nice video and great advice. The only thing I might argue around is mistake Nr 1. Choosing the right model. If you really, really want to build a big Spitfire, go for it. Yes, you might fail (likely), but your motivation is super high! Then you might buy a second big Spitfire and build it better.
Of course, one can check out easier or more difficult big Spitfires to build, but still. Some folks work like this, and just might become great builders because of this. For others, they will not build anything more. I am not saying it is right, but it is a variant that works for some folks.
Showing my age here but started as a kid with Matchbox model planes. Plus some Airfix. Now I build Airfix and Tamiya. Great tips.
Fantastic!
I started with Matchbox tanks. They came with a little diorama.
@@elliotgregory3356 Yes they did. Had to get my dad to put the tracks on they were so tricky. I can still smell the melted rubber from the hot knife he used to join them in place.
@@simonleib1992 That's right. And it always showed in my case! I believe Revell now has that back catalogue although I found an M24 Chaffe on eBay 4 years ago which was an original Matchbox one.
@@elliotgregory3356 I've been collecting classic matchbox models mainly aircraft but a few tanks also. Quite a few on ebay. I think you are right Revell took matchbox over.
Started modeling at around 7 yrs old now 68 yrs old have modeled my whole life so I have seen just about every stage of improvement. Glues, paints, kits, and tools have come a long way in the last 60 yrs.
I build hard plastic miniatures for war games; while I'll acknowledge that the Tamiya plastic cement is spectacular, I've found that Testors 3507AT Liquid Cement is pretty good too. It's got a fantastic pinpoint applicator, and a one bottle of the stuff has lasted me many years.
Ah interesting! Great to know, thanks 👍
Excellent tips. A couple I would add. Choosing the right kit - get one where the parts are clean and fit well. Take Airfix for example, they might do two Spitfires, one from the classic range dating back to the 1979s and a recent one. The initial attraction of the classic one is that it is cheaper and will appear simpler - but that is a false economy because you will end up with parts that are misaligned, have lots of flash and don’t fit that well. The newer kit, will be more complex, have more parts, but will be cleaner and will fit better and ultimately will be a lot easier for a beginner to build.
The second is cement - it is a good idea to have some thicker cement too, the Tamiya standard is good, in the same sort of bottle as the Tamiya thin, but is more viscous and has a larger brush. Where this comes in handy is joining big parts, like the wing halves of the B-17 on your wall. Trying to use Tamiya thin will be frustrating because it will evaporate and dry faster than you can apply to the whole service. The standard cement has a bigger brush, so you can apply more and is more viscous so stays wetter for longer. Of course you could tape the parts dry and wick in the then, but I consider that a more advanced technique and you have to be very careful because the tin cement can wick around the tape ruining the visible surfaces of your parts.
Interesting stuff! i built many models as a kid in the 80s. I’ve gone back and forth over getting back into models, but I’m sure now it’s gonna happen. Just getting my bearings again, and I actually have money. Thank you.
I made models as a kid between 1968 to 1980. I'm getting near retirement and excited to start all over again with all the modern tips, supplies and kits. I'll start with my dad's plane from WWII, the B-24D from HobbyBoss. Not the easiest kit but hopefully I'll do a good-enough job to remember him by.
Good thing i started with LEGO 1:29
I have been building models since 1960, and tip number 5 is likely the best tip any beginner can take to heart. Even today, as I build, I still have to discipline myself once all the sub assemblies begin to come together. There is the desire to see the results of my labor, but remember, the enjoyment is in journey, not just the destination. I have finished models that have been completed for over half a century. They are a treasure, yes, but as a reminder of the journey.
Mistake 6: Don’t eat the model glue, although it taste good, don’t do it
O god, that clear shit he talked about is super toxic.
As the wise Homer Simpson once said: "The cream looks delicious, but don't eat too much"
Thanks for all your amazing videos! I am 66 y/o, retired and just getting into modeling in a serious way. Yes, I built many models as a kid with that messy cement and painted with a brush. All OK but now I am ready to make models that look great. I have the Sherman and panther kits you suggested and I am now purchasing supplies and tools to build them. I also purchased two tamiya panzer ii light tank kits (they were $15 each) to use as practice/experimental kits to hone my skills and try out different painting/weathering techniques, so if I really mess up I am not out a lot of money and time on a kit. Not in a hurry, I want to make the right purchases for the long term. I am really into WWII panzers. Thanks again, love to see more airbrush techniques, especially cleaning when switching colors during a painting session. Modeling rocks!
Modeling does rock!! Thank you for your support & I'm glad the videos have been helpful. I love me some Panzers as well, of course. Some great options to choose from 👍
I have been building plastic kits for over 60 years. I remember vividly a birthday gift from my father at 17 which was an airfix Lancaster bomber in black plastic with 'pre-sanitised' (flaming engine, coming in to land after a night bombing mission) box artwork. It was on the sideboard and it stirred my imagination in ways that I retain to this day. I still have the model (amongst hundreds of others now) and although I probably made all the beginner mistakes you mention, it still looks pretty good today and the decals are still stuck fast. It reminds me of my father every time I look up (my model aircraft are suspended from the ceiling). I thought it would be a great idea to get another of the same models to build for my 67th birthday and got my wife to 'surprise' me on my birthday with the very same kit from ebay. Ironically I sourced it from ebay in Germany! There it was, flaming engines and all and 50 years on, my imagination was sparked in the very same way. I have not yet commenced the build as I have had plenty of others to go at and it will be interesting to compare the two when I have done it.
Wonderful advice Hank, thank you very much! One item I keep on my hobby bench is a small, super bright flashlight and it comes in really handy when I drop small parts onto the rug or hardwood floor. I really enjoy your videos for the techniques you share and also for all the cool gear you’ve got on the walls of your Mancave. Take care!
Here’s my favorite tip. ALWAYS buy more than one! I typically start off with 3 of the exact same model before I begin. There is nothing more frustrating than getting to a critical section only to find the manufacturer included a flawed or useless part. Along those lines, be sure to have many blank panels just in case you have to manufacture a piece…
I am not about to spend £90 on a £30 kit. I ain’t that rich🤣
Excellent video. Important stuff to know for beginners. Pitfalls like these can discourage new hobbyists.
If I make a few comments, I believe you left out a couple of things.
Sprue cutters are absolutely NOT the only things to use when removing parts. In some cases, the gate can be extremely close to a part. And if the part is particularly small, damage can occur from trying to actually place the tool between the part and the sprue. As well as the cutting process causing the damage. In some cases a very fine razor saw is best. An X-Acto (hobby knife) with a sharp blade can also be used.
Tamiya glue is excellent. But I wouldn't call it the "industry standard".
For the same price of the Tamiya, you can buy a quart of MEK (methyl ethyl keytone) which is just as good, if not better.
In regards to painting, not all brands of paint, and clear coats/ varnishes can be used together. In modeling, there are few things worse than laying down paint, especially a challenging paint scheme, just to have the clear coat lift or craze your paint job. I suggest testing your paint and clear coat combinations on scrap styrene ahead of time.
Thanks for reading, and for producing an excellent video.
Oh, and the other thing where you're a genius? The point number five you made on this video: do not rush. I literally have said that over and over again for all of my projects since I've listened to this video. It is so completely true, that I would put it at number one - and say it as a mantra. I have a lot of hobbies, painting, drawing, modeling in plastic, modeling wooden ships, historical board wargames, and even cooking. And your 'Do not Rush' should be in all of our minds for all of our endeavours.
My advice is to first set up a dedicated place where you can work on your models. Whether it be the kitchen table (not ideal) or a dedicated hobby desk(better) you need to have a place to keep your paints, supplies and tools. This will grow quickly when you're new, that's why the kitchen table won't work very well, in the long run. After you have a place to build ready to go, don't put a lot of money into the first few kits. Don't even worry about whether you get a good result or not on the first couple. I suggest buying a larger scale for the first few like 1/32 or 1/35. The pieces are going to generally be a little bit larger, less fiddly and less prone to breakage/losing them in the carpet, than if you go small scale like 1/72. Use your first kits as test beds to practice the basics of cutting parts from the sprue, cleaning them up, cement, puttying/gap filling, sanding, masking and canopy preparation, prep for decals, decals, paint and weathering. You need to understand how to work with enamels and how to work with acrylics. One is oil based, the other is water based. If at all possible, invest in a good airbrush and a good set of brushes. Learn how to use washes and pigments...I would also suggest building projects that are dissimilar...for example, build a tank, then build an airplane...you might find that you have a preference for one over the other. After a couple of beginner kits hopefully you have a basic idea of what you're doing now, so that 3rd kit or so, push yourself to a little bit more challenging kit....and my last word of advice, when you make a mistake, don't be discouraged, use it as an opportunity to come up with a solution. Maybe you can scratch build a part, or repaint, or whatever...there's very few mistakes in modeling that don't have a solution.
I am 70 and returning to scale kits after many decades. I am building the AMT Starship Enterprise NCC 1701. Not too many parts or difficult painting. Already I can see, from your video, what I’ve done wrong and will invest in a spru-cutter soon. My hobby dealer sold me a can of Tamiya mist-gray spray paint for the body. I think it looks way too dark, but he said the smaller kits (1/650) look better a bit darker. What does the community think?
I looove scalemates. I have been on it for years and as you, I look at every kit when it comes out. The timeline function is king. There you can see if a "New release" is garbage from the 1960s in a new package. love it
It's the best, right!?
All my models were painted completely with testers brush on paint. No gloss or anything. I got pretty good at it but I do notice that no matter how good i got at brushing those decals had that silvering. Now keep in mind the last model I made was pre internet and I didn't have anyone to teach me..... anything. However I just found 12 WW2 airplane models at a VA benefit garage sale for 50¢ a piece! When snow locks me in im going to be ready this time with all the knowledge youtube can muster! Looking forward to modeling again by lantern light when the power goes out and the roads are closed! Love your channel buddy. Ty
Awhile back I started using a "Touch-N-Flo" cement applicator and it is now one of my FAVORITE tools. (The Deluxe Materials company makes a similar item they call a "pin flow applicator".) This is basically a small glass pipette with an extremely small stainless steel tube at the end. You just touch it to the joint and cement wicks into the joint and voila. And once you load it with cement, you can make many, many joints without having to keep going back to a cement jar and dipping into it like you have to do with a brush. It does require a little finesse to make sure you keep it clean an avoid clogging the tip with softened plastic. These are fine for any of the liquid cements like Tamiya, really any of the "styrene cements", Tenax 7R types of plastic welding cements (like Micro-Mark's "Same Stuff") and such.
You have a great channel. Keep up the good work.
Speaking as someone who wanted to get back into modelling after years, went nuts and bought a lot of kits, mainly as this was at the beginning of the pandemic and everyone else had the same idea, or they were on sale and worth the savings, it is a considerable investment in kits and equipment in doing it properly. You want to get it right without wasting too much money or screwing up too many kits in the process.
So, I have a _lot_ in my stash and gradually building up my equipment inventory, but haven't so much as opened one box yet!
It doesn't help watching videos by the gifted model makers and expecting those results first time. But, my mind keeps going back to the money issue. Of course I understand I can't be as good as they are, and that's taking weathering and all the other 'special effects' out of the equation, just thinking about putting it together and giving it a paint job to look like it did when it rolled out of the factory. I have since learned about a few of the techniques that had stumped me, but there is a list bigger than my stash waiting to be resolved.
Does anyone else have this dilemma, or faced this before they bit the bullet and started? And how did you overcome it? Or will I be doomed to ruining a lot of kits, utterly destroying my $200 dream kit that breaks my heart each time I look at it on the shelf, before I eventually give up and sell the rest on eBay? I mean, I learned how to tile and rebuilt my bathroom first time and it's better than most pro jobs... but model building is way harder!
I think the best thing you can do is start working on kits! My goal for each build is to do it a little bit better than the last one. Small improvements each time. Practice makes progress, really! With each kit you complete, of course there will be some things you see and think to yourself "ah, I could have done that better...," but how would you know without taking the plunge, right? I totally understand not wanting to do a 'bad' job on expensive kits, so I'd recommend starting with some simpler kits (ideally under $50) to practice some techniques & then taking a shot at the bigger ones! Hope that helps - enjoy & happy building! 🍻
@Tom Stamford - I’m in a very similar situation to you. Started modelling after a 25+ year hiatus. My problem isn’t starting the kit, it’s getting it finished! In five years I’ve started about twenty kits but I don’t have a single one fully completed yet. In most cases it’s the painting that makes me anxious: I want the thing to be perfect, too perfect. And all these beautiful paint-jobs on youtube just make it seem so unattainable!
One solution I’ve found is to rework or ‘tart up’ some of my old childhood models, or better still to buy some junk models on eBay. If they’re cheap enough there’s no stress. In most cases they’re already ruined, so any change I make to them is an improvement. It’s a great way to practice airbrushing and to find that confidence I had 25+ years ago. Hoping to get one finished fairly soon 😊.
Another tip, when you’re out of Tamiya extra thin cement, buy their Airbrush cleaner instead. It’s basically the same stuff and it works fantastic, just found that out.
#5 is very important. After ripping through my first kits, I now put emphasis on building the best result I can. Letting a gloss coat dry for 2 days can be annoying, but it's worth it. Adding additional detail may be a time consuming challenge, but it's worth it in the end. Look at better builders here and copy what they do. And with the cost of all things on the rise, doubling the time for assembling a kit cuts costs for kits per period in half. You build one kit in the same time you would otherwise maybe build two, you have to buy and pay for. The materials like glue and paint aren't such a cost factor for one or two models. Very helpful tip, thanks.
Great points for sure - thank you!
I'm on my 2nd model in my lifetime in my 40s. The 1st was only maybe 7 years ago. I had a crash course from an older gentleman that owned an independent hobby store that unfortunately has closed down after decades of business. It wasnt awful, but not exactly anything to make me go "ahhhhh". That was a revell p47 bubble top. I didn't really do any research before purchasing the Academy B25D I'm working on now, but took lessons from mistakes made from my 1st into this one, and I'm doing much better and much smoother with more confidence. 1st step was a pilots control gauges decal so I had to watch a video to do it right and got the clearcoat and successfully installed it. I was impressed off the bat lol. Better detail brushes and more patience with the painting. I've learned to make myself walk away while things are drying, be it glue or paint, before I get too ahead of myself working on multiple pieces at a time. Idk how bad it is, but for super hard pieces to glue together, small pieces with minimal contact to glue to, I've used a little gorilla super glue, just enough for an instant stick, then xacto blade trim any excess or simply paint over it blend in but so far only on parts that aren't easily visible, like interior parts. Look great so far but I need to look up stronger faster setting cement for the more visible areas as I wont want use the super glue where precision matters. I have the tamiya quick set thin and regular thin but my shake hands make it hard to hold some parts together long enough. I do have tweezers and an overhead lamp which is very important
Brilliant. I have signed up for the 1/35 perks simply because you're so good. I thank you for giving back to the community. I have come back from a decades long hiatus. Even your beginner information is much needed.
Tip 1b) After receiving the model read through the instructions complete before you start building.
Tip 2b) There are sprue cutters and "sprue cutters". Do your research. A good sprue cutter should have a chisel nose (sharp). a narrow head, and a flat cutting surface. The Tamiya MH21D is pricey but brilliant, you can get some good cheap side cutters from most hardware stores. However
Tip 5a) - if you are doing something small and fiddly (tank tracks/ painting figures) and you find yourself getting frustrated it is time for a cup of tea(coffee) or a break. A 15 to 20 minutes break will be all you need.
Tip 6, dry fit before applying glue. Some older kits are not as precise and the pieces might need some cleaning up to fit properly.
Also don't build when you are tired - you are more likely to make mistakes.
All good points - thanks!
The adventure is all about the studying of instructions, parts clean up, dry testing fitting of parts, careful assembly, glue seam removal, painting, decalling and other finishing to the model. I personally love the weathering process to give a model that sense of being used and sometimes neglected. Oil stains, grime, paint chips, heat stress lines, salt marks you name it it can be weathered onto a model.
As a young model maker i agree with everything said on this video ive got 3 models f 35 spitfire and a sea harrier the harrier im doing now and im just doing the bombes missles and painting ive done EVERYTHING on this list and i agree 👍👍👍
My last model I built was 20+ years ago. I’m about to get back into the game with my kiddos. so just doing my research. Thanks for the video!
I love #5. It takes experience to know when that point is and when to stop for a break.
Nice! More or less my top five but your delivery and the details you provide are superior to my own. I do add these tips: 1. Think about making a 1/48 or better, 1/32 scale model. If you are like me, super small parts are tricky to handle, even if you are using tweezers. 2. Invest in a basic tool kit. All of $15 and it makes life so much easier. 3. When you open the kit, find the parts diagram, and lay out the sprues. Hold off on removing the parts -- just compare them to the diagram. Know what's what! Many of the small parts need to be assembled to look like something recognizable (for instance, an engine), but they look like tiny doo-dads to start with. One thing I do: remove associated parts and put them in a plastic baggy, then label the baggy. 2. Go light on the glue. A little bit will hold. 3. Understand sanding: what grit of sandpaper to use, and what a sanding block is and how to use it. As it is with glue, go easy. 4. Set a goal and stop, particularly if drying time is needed for glue or paint. Slow and steady -- don't go on a 3-hour long assembly binge. You will get a better result. 5. Consider an airbrush. If that is reaching too far, okay, and you can go to spray paint. But bear in mind that what you want is a fine mist, not a heavy spray. Shake that can! Make sure the nozzle is clean, and spray from 12 inches away. Experiment a little, maybe with one of the sprues. Or turn over a part and practice spraying that way (when assembled, that side of the part is invisible so your painting experiment is, too). Bear in mind when selecting paint that you have the choice of flat, semi-gloss, or gloss. Think about what sort of finish is appropriate for the model. 6. Speaking of finish...compare the kit's instructions for paint colors with what is on the box. They aren't always the same! But if they are, is that what you want the model to look like? Maybe do a little research -- go online and check out the images. A current example: I live in San Diego and I want to get my scale model of the original WW II Corsair airplane to look exactly as it did when it left port here on carriers in 1943. But guess what? The plane on the box looks authentic, yes, but the paint job is tricked up and there are too many markings (decals in the model kit). The nice thing about this? It's actually less work. I am painting less and using only half of the decals.
Tip#5 is great... I find after a break I'm refreshed and find my mistakes or get an idea to make my build better.
I had bought a 1/48 kit of the Handley Paige Halifax. The only model of that aircraft at that size. Reading more on it found it was a total dog sbd ended up selling it.
Another tool to remove small parts off a Sprue tree is using the small sawtooth blade on an x-acto handle. The snips that he recommends can cause bulging that will distort or bend delicate parts. Slowly sawing the tree connectors works fine and you can save the part from bending or breaking.
I kinda bought a kit on a whim with a few things like a few brushes, cement, paint, and the kit itself. I think I’ll go get a exacto knife and some fine grit sand paper and bust it out over the weekend. Nice video
At 61 yrs of age l tried modelling again. Bad eye sight,shaky hands the list goes on. I used to love doing 1/28 scales in WWll vintage war planes. What a rewarding experience. Good video. Nothing to add.
Ive did afew of these mistakes for my very first kit, just saw a model kit and bought it without any research, luckily it was an easy set though it didnt come with any paint or glue, ill avoid making more mistakes by not rushing my spitfire and getting a clear coat on it before adding the decals
Thanks!
Wow - thank you SO much! Very generous - I really appreciate the support! 👍
Good job. You're the first 'How To' video to mention #5. Dont rush! You're not kidding with that one. Slow down, let it dry over night. If you feel like you're moving too fast STOP! Build the next section or start on another model! I build models for a living, 28 years full time. I'm always working on two models at a time.
Occassionally I will check out a 'How To video just incase I might learn something new, we never stop learning. You gave good advice. Thank you.
Thank you very much!! I'm glad to hear this was helpful, especially from a full-timer! Cheers 🍻
I'm just picking up modelling after a break of like 40+ years and this video was so helpful. I've jusr ordered the cutters, varnish,glue you recommended and my 1st kit (the jeep kit!). Thank you.
i just spent $70 on a pair of godhand singleblade side cutters and its such a game changer. the cheapo snips work, but the god hands make the clean up so much easier.
This is really helpful. I started modelling 6 months ago and my first model was really bad but I watched this and learned great things
I use diagonals for bigger part of the sprue, i do that to get to some small pieces hard to get to without snapping them. I use tube glue for bigger pieces like a ship hull or fuselage. Different glues for different needs.
Hi . Should all the spruces be washed in luke warm water and dishwashing detergent to remove the releasing agent that was in the mold ?
Great video; saved me a good 5 mistakes !!! Ill be watching the rest of your videos !! Thanks !!
Great tips! I've been building models for 12+ years and this still helped me. I've never used that particular cement (will try it now) and I've never cleared before decals but that makes alot of sense. Also not rushing is a big thing. I often try to rush the final assembly and it has resulted in some terrible mistakes in the end. Thanks for the wise words
Thank you & thanks for watching!
Tip 5 is the best advice. I’ve been modeling for years. Great job on this video.
I was addicted to plastic models as a kid, I made all the mistakes you mentioned, but still had a great time. But I must admit, the results were often less than stellar...lol
Haha we've all been there 👍
I spent nearly all of my pocket money on plastic kits. And then spent nearly all of the holidays building them! It was wonderful. I was just starting to get good when I discovered backpacking and girls…
Started in the 60's and into the 70's. Monogram, Airfix, Planes, Aurora armor kits, some of the early Tamiya and Hasegawa armor also. Got interested in girls, beer, etc. Now, am 62 and I could retire. My wife said "you need a hobby. something to do". I said I used to build models. She said get into that! Wish I had advice like this way back then, but then I was a kid and wanted to see the finished product.
I'm a long haul flatbed trucker; have been for 40 years now. 4 years ago, I fell and shattered my left leg (the clutch leg).. I was off the road for the better part of a year. I needed SOMETHING to do - a hobby. I got into model cars and trucks, something I hadn't done in almost 50 years. And I like it. A LOT.
I'm now looking at disability because of the leg. It's leaving me a lot of bench time; and I'm starting to tackle BIG ideas - I'm fixing to start a 34 Ford pickup - chopping the cab, putting in a fully blown Ford big block, lowered, 4 link rear end clip, and that's for starters!!
As a beginner a great tip is don’t get discouraged. The first few aren’t going to look like the box or what you see on you tube. It takes time and practice to refine your skills and that’s ok. Like anything stick with it and it will come around. One other tip I learned early on, study the instructions and make a plan. Don’t hesitate to write on them to mark colors or parts you may need to remember. My kit instructions look like a kid wrote all over them, but it works for me.
Definitely - those are some fantastic points! 👍
Mine never look like the box but I keep building. 👍
A big thank you, from someone who has committed ALL of those mistakes.
All good tips and yes, these are a few of the mistakes I made when younger, EXCEPT for using TESTORS glue in a tube which I have always used and will only use. Way back in the mid 1960s, starting with my first models at age 5 or 6, Testors styrene cement was pretty much the only game in town...so I got used to it's properties as the decades past, such as it's wonderful NO DRIP NO RUN THICKNESS. Unlike watery stuff (including super runny gap filling crazy glue...which goes everywhere it likes to and stops running only when it wants to....and has RUINED many a beautifully prepped part), TESTORS goes EXACTLY where I put it, in exactly the amount I want, and no place else EVER, as well as having a much much longer "tack" time, (before it sets), than the watery stuff, allowing you to slowly take the time you need to position your parts EXACTLY the way you want them, and inspect them at length and shift or slide them around a bit if needed, before you decide you are satisfied, and clamp, tape, or set them aside to dry. After using TESTORS for over 50 years , I know EXACTLY what to expect from it...and I NEVER have any runny drippy overglued bad surprises or ruined parts. Testors is very high quality glue whos bonding strength ROCKS. It's my favorite by far and I will ONLY use TESTORS. Just sayin'...
Both old school Testors orange tube and Tamiya extra thin have places in my modeling tackle box... along with old school CA as well. That said, I can ruin any part at any time... glue type isn't the problem in that regard... lol.
Good stuff, thank ya !! And may I add ? Chose the proper kit- cars, tanks, planes, sci-fi ? Nah.
Get into the most rewarding sub-genre of model kits. Warships !!...
I have read that Tamiya's 1:350 USS FLETCHER is a great introductory model ship kit.
As for myself ? My mother bought Revell's 1:570 TITANIC kit for me, my 1st kit ever- in 1976.
47 years later ? I am still at it building 1:700th scale kits.
My current is Spanish Rebublican light cruiser LIBERTAD (a resin & photo etch kit- a true beauty !!), made by Five Star.
Perk up some coffee, listen to the Phillies game & working on my kit ? Heaven !!
🚬😎👍
I just wanna say thank you for helping see what all I was doing wrong, I really wanna get into this stuff and do it the right way, glad I stopped by to watch this
I used to build scale models as a kid. Picking the hobby back up and getting started again with some Tamiya kits. Question for anyone who can give feedback. Is it still necessary to wash all the part sprues upon unboxing the model? I know this was needed on older kits, and resin parts, but is it still needed on todays modern plastic model kits? I always wipe down the larger assemblies with alcohol or water and soap before painting, but is it necessary to wash them out of the box before starting the build?
Not usually. If I have handled a model a lot while building, and I think it might have oil from my hands, I will wipe it over with some diluted alcohol.
Thanks for spending the time to put this video together. I’ve only just started getting into model building (leaning towards rc models) and I feel I am meditating when I do it. So awesome.
with the old tube glue i quickly learned to squeeze it on to another surface then use a cocktail stick to apply it to the model
I do a fair amount of scratch building as well as restoration of old junkers. Tip #5 is so true. Often, there are no instructions in my work. You need to go slowly. There are times when your brain has to solve procedural challenges. Some of my models are over 60 years old. If you plan on keeping your work to enjoy down across the years, they are worth your loving care and time. Remember, it's not all about the destination, the journey builds memories.
Great tips, I am not a beginner, but still watch videos like this to see what I am missing regarding new tools and techniques. Regarding the clear coat, have you ever tried Pledge 'future' or 'revive' floor polish for the clear coat? I use it all the time, it works great, cost 10 bucks for a bottle that lasts for YEARS, and goes through an air brush or paint brush very easily. I only use it for my working layers, as in pre weathering / decals, etc... and then use a more robust lacquer or acrylic flat for my final finish, but it is great for 'saving your work' and preventing silvering. It also works great for making plane canopies shine. But it certainly leads into your best tip of all, patience! The more clear coats we do for various reasons the more it slows down the project. That is when the ability to multitask is helpful.
I have had a lot of success with Pledge as well! It was my go-to gloss coat before I started using the AK Gauzy (which is the best gloss I've ever worked with - I'll be hard-pressed to switch it up unless something amazing comes along). But definitely - the Pledge is a wonderful product & saves a lot of cash 👍
It may sound like blasphemy to many, but I'd argue that you don't always need to use a clear coat before the decal steps. Clear coats are difficult to apply since they are clear and can leave bad finishes if not applied properly such as orange peel or a chalky look. Main point being it takes a lot of practice to put down a good clear coat. I've put decals on a flat surface and had no issues with silvering. Other youtube modellers such as Michael Rinaldi and Wil Patterson subscribe to this approach. I'm not saying it's wrong to put down a clear coat, but I wouldn't say it's a mistake beginner's make. If a beginner can learn other decal techniques (using Mirco Set and Sol or the other Brand name setters), they can probably achieve good results without the clear coat.
Still patient with my tamiya wrc subaru model, I am just starting on the other half of the kit in 4 months, it can be so relaxing sometimes, started modeling from 10 yo so 4 years in total, this hobby comes from familys generaions.
I started building models again and after watching some scale modeling channels I entirely changed my game and got wayyyyy batter results with liquid cement, primer, clearcoat, panel scribe, line accent paint, and a Molotow chrome pen.
Just starting out as a pensioner. Your videos got me all enthusiastic. Thank you.
Do YOU ever paint parts before assembly? Thanks again, Michael 🇦🇺
you are an exeptional teacher and nice guy for giving us modeling newbies great info!
I still use the tube cement for certain parts that don't show as much like engine halves. Most times they get covered up by other parts and paint, or you don't see them at the end. Everything else is put together with Tamiya ultra thin.
One thing I would add. Thing about what order to paint things in and whether to paint certain parts "before" assembly. Paint the inside parts of the cockpit before assembly, sometimes even on the sprues . Likewise, small external parts like Jerry cans, Road wheels etc. You are never going to gain adequate access to paint those correctly once the thing has been put together, and yet there are still so many videos out there of a fully constructed kit being airbrushed top to toe. Silly.
Fair point!
That is what I am running into since I am working on my first kit. I’m looking for order of operations. Build/glue, prime, Paint inside then out, clear coat, decals, weather, varnish.
wife got me a Tamiya chieftain for a xmas gift. last time i did a model was 1984 and it was a tamiya king tiger. i see things have changed on glue so i got Mr.cement thin. not many stores around here. painting with a brush still. I did buy a emory stick since i broke rule #2. i do have a Xacto knife kit from the 70's on the fine parts though. Blades are still sharp. Great video & tips. working on my weathering now & making a camo net out of gauze. Testors back the 70's was easily bought back then for glue & paint. She did get me Xf-5 paint from amazon & i bought a testors 6 pack of military colors.
50 years modelling for me & your spot on - yes there are others but this is a great start.
For me 1/32nd WW2 Aircraft 5 scratch builds with the last 2 ( 100% including making the decals) built together t took 9 years.
Any tips for painting 3D-printed models? I no longer have the motivation to build 1/35 scale models as I did in my youth, however I am stoked about the myriad of 3D-printed offerings available today, including customized models. I'm building quite a collection of WW2 AFV's in 1/32 scale and I want to get started painting them. What is recommended for primer coats? Are acrylics best? What works, what doesn't? How can I get optimal results?