I am on my second model aircraft (as an adult). I was a poor kid and could never afford good tools like airbrushes (or other brushes) or fancy masking tapes. My goal is constant improvement with every model, but I know each attempt will be flawed. This video helped me get better for the future (up my game). The things I liked about this video was that you enumerate all the ways you know about and/or tried. This helps because I did not know about parafilm. It also outlined a concept in Japanese culture called "wabi sabi" where we must accept things being imperfect. Each model is my creation and brings back memories dealing with the mistakes and learning. Great work on this video.
Thank you so much for your kind words. And thanks for letting me know about "wabi sabi" - that is interesting. And thank you for watching and commenting - I am grateful. Have fun with your modeling!
I modeled for about 30 years but stopped about 10 years ago. Renewed interest with my 13 year old grandson’s interest in the hobby. Used most of these techniques in the past ant this was a great way to review the pros and cons. I have also learned several new things. Thank you.
I have say this is one of the best modelling tutorials I have ever seen. Painting/masking canopies has always been a problem for me and therfore a bit discouraging but you have opened to my eyes new possibilities. As well as the technical advice you give being great, your style of presentation is very watchable and engaging and the advice on attitude and approach is very sensible and encouraging. Thank you and I look forward to putting your advice into practice and of course watching more of your videos.
Thanks so much for your kind words! And I am so happy to know the video was helpful. That is always something that encourages me to know. Thanks so much for watching and commenting. Happy day to you friend!
The information provided here is worth its weight in gold. Too many experienced modelers feel over time that their methods are best. Bottom line if you stop learning you're going to lose interest soon thereafter. Great video.
Great tips. Best advice you give is right at the end: 'If the goal is to have fun, it doesn't have to be about achieving perfection.' I bet many of us can use that reminder.
Hi Jon Thank you for this. The biggest takeaway for me is to leave striving for perfection and to enjoy the hobby. I have ordered my first roll of Parafilm
Yes! If you keep that as Rule #1, and all else points back to that, you will have fun. I think every video I have released basically is summed up in that. Perfection is impossible. Embrace the imperfection. 😉 Thanks so much for watching and commenting - happy day to you!
started modeling again since I've been retired. It gives me great satisfaction every part of it my skill is increased and I really enjoyed building these models. Except for Caterpies. This video is giving me the courage to move on with them and I'm going to try some this afternoon It is also a very clear video on what to expect and definitely the one thing you do is sit down and take your time. I'm right there with you Thanks again for this video excellent
Welcome back to the hobby, and congratulations on retiring! You are right - the road to success with canopies is patience! Enjoy the process. And thank you for watching and commenting!
Jon, a couple of simple tips that I find help. For a mini scraper, cut one end of a toothpick @ about 45 degrees or into a chisel shape point with a craft knife. Wooden coffee stirrers cut straight across @ an angle make a cheap burnisher. Liquid masking has been easier to cut & remove when you use several (3 or 4) coats of it. Vinyl contact paper is one of my favorite masking materials. You have some great content videos Jon. I've been a 1/24 model car builder & slot car racer for over 50 years. I don't do either steadily anymore, but occasionally I will still get involved. I first airbrushed in 1970 using a single action Binks. I still have it & three others, but they see limited use today.
I'm late to the party, but great tips. I do build for contests, those models get the "tried and true" techniques I've worked on in the past 30 years. The personal builds, trying new things all of the time. In the past 2 years, trying Mr. Surfacer for seam lines. Man, so good, now will go into the contest models. Also, for practice, the table top gaming (Flames of War, etc.) products are great to work with. Easy builds and hey, you may want to play the games when you're done! Thanks for the great videos!
I must admit I was really skeptical. I figured every method you were going to review, would be the same old tired ones I’ve tried before with little success. I couldn’t have been more wrong. Your video was packed with relevant and actionable information. Thank you very much! My Parafilm is on its way. I can’t wait to get started. Again, thank you Sir.
G'day Jon, 'Goose' here... No, I just wanted to prove I saw your 'Easter Egg' at the very end. Once again, Jon, that was a great video. People sometimes tell me I write comments that are too long, well, what can I say, I'm a writer... semi-retired but still writing around 1500 words a day... because I can and I'd just feel weird if I didn't. Just like modelling. A day without modelling is either a bad day or Christmas Day! What do I write? Well, mostly I write about military history. I was in the RAAF and got bitten by the old aircraft bug. I started talking to older pilots and aircrew; I started doing research and discovered I loved it. As for modelling, my specialty is Allied WW2 aircraft. Then I started to research Korean war aircraft which took me through the early jets and took my aircraft history interest up till about the late 70s, which is the time I got out of the RAAF to write full time. I must say that I think modern aircraft, although technologically amazing, they leave me stone cold. They are all shades of haze grey with very little artwork and colour. You gave fantastic advice on canopies. Any of us who have worked on many, many aircraft learn to get over 'Canopy Fear' and just treat it like another enjoyable session of tiny problem solving. I've done every masking method you mentioned, except for the parafilm. I've not seen or heard of it before. I'll buy some when the USPS drags itself out of its obscene package price rises. It has stopped me from dealing with many of my US suppliers; many of whom have become my friends over the years. I had the sad task of telling my good mates, John and Vanessa who run Old Model Kits on the internet that I couldn't trade with them until the USPS gets back to logical, fair shipping charges. They lost their international customers almost overnight, after the Postmaster General (appointed by the previous POTUS) decided he disliked international postage recipients and increased shipping fees by as much as five fold. (Don't get me started!) Anyway, canopies; after trying all manner of potions, tapes, fluids and voodoo chanting, I decided to just paint the canopy frames freehand with various brands of acrylics. Although, I think the pigments in the ‘Vallejo Air’ paints are pretty good value with real depth of colour. I made myself a small canopy 'jig' which I clamp underneath a magnifying lamp and use the tiniest brush I can find that holds a decent amount of paint. In the mornings, after a couple of mugs of tea, I can have a nice steady hand for about three hours and that usually does it. I had my 67th birthday three days ago and I'm way past agonising over minute detail. Like you, I take it slow and just get on with the job. During my RAAF service I learned so much from being up close and personal with our older aircraft and the canopy frames, inside and out were, in reality, pretty shoddy anyway, because they were well down the agenda of the Surface Finishers. They take a huge amount of wear and tear, so to speak. Likewise with our early jets, like the Australian CAC CA-27 AVON Sabre squadrons. They were kept with polished bare metal with vividly coloured flashes all over the wings and stabilisers. They looked great. When I came to try those 'bare metal' sheets on models like the AVON Sabre I learned that the filament sheets were extremely fragile. As years passed, those models I used the metal sheets on began to degrade even though they had a sealing gloss coat, prior to decaling, and sometimes two coats of clear semi-matt topcoats. It is just the nature of that product. Now I use metal paints that can be polished after they have cured hard. That seems to have worked fine on models that I finished some years ago. Old aircraft had, I believe, a real 'spirit' and 'personality' all their own. I love the way the old USN Gloss Dark Blue on carrier based Corsairs faded so badly leaving motley patches of different hues of blue; it gave each aircraft a unique character and bore witness to how hard they were flown and the toll of constant exposure to salt sea spray. Something for a modeller to get their teeth into. Even the B-17s, most of which were covered in olive drab livery still had so many variances and, always, wonderful 'nose art'. Finally, because I'm waffling on here... I went through a phase, like everyone, of using Pledge or Future or Humperdinck, or whatever it's called this month. It gave me some fantastic results until I remembered that when I was in the Air Force, I never saw an old canopy that pristine. So I stopped doing it. Sorry to ramble on, but I stayed up really late to catch up on your videos and now it's not long before breakfast, but it's been well worth it. Thank you, Jon. It's a great pity we can't meet up and talk modelling. Sadly, my doctors tell me I can't fly anymore. Just about the final, ironic insult for an old RAAFy Chappie like me. Oh, well, we age, we adapt and move forward. Cheers, mate and all the very best to you. Bill Halliwell
Hey Bill! It's great to hear from you! What wonderful stories - thank you for sharing them. And thanks your kind words too, as well as for watching and commenting! Happy day to you friend!
I’m using a method you didn’t mention - a hybrid method. Thinner slices of masking tape around the canopy edges (so they adhere to compound curves better) and then filling the center in with liquid mask.
I found that the liquid mask (VMS) leaves quite a bit of residue. I assume that it will come out with Novus1, but I am going to wait a few days to ensure that the frame paint is totally cured --wouldn't want to have the Novus1 obliterate the frame paint now!
It turns out that Novus will not get rid of the VMS liquid mask residue! I am going to have to wipe out everything and start from scratch again. I will never again use liquid mask to complete the masking of a canopy. ☹
Thankyou so much for taking your time to explain different ways of masking and how not to get to a stage where perfection is paramount. I now have enough moxi to deal with my models canopy which has many windows. Gulp! here I go .
Very informative. Thanks Jon for sharing this - lots of useful information! I also think your emphasis on just having fun is important to keep in mind. Every model has it's good and bad points. Along with having fun, you can ask if you learned anything which will improve the next one.
I would like to add another cautionary note with sticky tapes. I discovered the flexible curvy tapes for those wavy lines one wants. I thought it would simplify things. Imagine my surprise after stickng the tape down on the desired forms, stepping back to admire the work before painting, and seeing tape pulling away from the forms I am trying to achieve or protect. So you redo the masking because the stuff does not "correct". Turns out, it is "curvy" because of its elastic composition. Once placed along the curves, it shrinks and moves from its intended location because we naturally have a tendancy to "stretch" it some to conform with our desired lines. Correcting "in-situ" only stretches it again before it shrinks back once more. Hope this helps. Great video.
great vid Jon! I like your approach to laying out all the options with pros and cons. It definitely takes a little practice and finding your favorite method. I've tried most of them and the pre-cut masks are the way for me if I'm feeling lazy. Otherwise it's Tamiya tape. One item on that, if the canopy has a straight edge, I use the straight edge of the tape and line it along the edge, that's one less side I have to cut! I have been thinking about the Parafilm method for some time and may need to pick some up.
Thanks so much! Tamiya is easy for those "right angle" type masking scenarios. I still use it from time to time for that. Parafilm definitely wins the days when there are a lot of angles and curves involved in my opinion. Give it a try and see what you think! Thanks so much for watching and commenting!
Thanks Jon, your how-to was very helpful. It's been 60 years since I built a model and things have changed since then. I have a couple of health issues which restrict what I can do so I thought I'd try modelling again. Although the eyes are weaker and the hands are shakier , I just take my time and have fun.🇨🇦
Just about to jump back in after xxx decades of not modelling and it feels like there are so many options available but this is the first video I've seen that gives such a comprehensive comparison of the options. Thank you for the information and I think parafilm is certainly one to try. Great video, thanks. "Talk to me Goose 😂😂"
Welcome back to the hobby! I hope you have a fun time with it. And thanks for your kind words. I'm so glad that you found the video helpful. Thanks for watching and commenting - happy day to you friend!
6:28 I have a metal "burnisher" , by Rotring ( for rubbing down "Letraset dry lettering" , remember that ??) its like a pen handle and tapers to a small tip like the rounded side of a spoon . This makes sure the edges are stuck down ! 😄😄 wish they still did Letraset it could be very useful but needed a flat-ish area to apply onto . Wales UK.
Hi Jon, an message and compliment from the Netherlands. I normally do vehicles and I have searched an long time for a good way to work on the transparants. I have tried your method to paint it with acryl paint and than remove the rest with an toothpick and it works perfectly. Before I have always made the "black rubbers" with an permanent marker form edding but you had to be very carefull, no you can make some faults and you can remove it. Thanks for the tips. René de Caluwé, The Nether;lands
Hi René - I'm so glad you found that method helpful! I'm always happy to know that the videos are useful in helping people in the hobby. Thanks so much for watching and commenting - happy day to you! Jon - North Carolina, USA
Just about to mask a canopy with Micro Mask and thought I should get some advice. I used to free-hand it (years ago) and things usually got ugly but hey, it's the 21st century! Things have changed, right? Well, my hands shake more than ever but I am much more cunning now - there's YT now, full of advice and how-to's. Hmm .... luckily there's Jon Bius giving some sound advice to balance the three minute marvels. Thankyou Jon! I'm off to practice enjoying myself.
Jon, you have a really good channel. I just discovered and this was a very good session. I plan to use the parafilm from now on whenever I can. I tried the bare metal foil method but I found it very difficult to use. One problem is that I have limited time and it takes me awhile to get back to the canopy if I'm working on something else. Bare metal foil stuck to the canopy so tight when I tried it and it had been sitting for so long it was really difficult to get it off. As for the enemy of good enough is perfect, I learned that in the army. But that did not stop me from trying to be a perfectionist with model airplanes. I spent years trying to learn how to scribe panel lines on monogram kits. It nearly destroyed my interest in this hobby and in my opinion it isn't worth the effort. I just reduce and highlight raises detail on old kits now.
Thanks so much for your kind words, and for watching and commenting! I agree - there are things in modeling that the payoff and the effort required just don't balance out. Have fun with it - that's what matters! AATW!
Speaking of masking methods, before I learned about Tamiya masking tape, I discovered that Scotch Magic tape was perfect for masking clear parts. Then I tried the Tamiya, but I really stuck with the Scotch Magic tape. The Tamiya seems great for masking to paint the kit, but for the clear parts, Magic tape is perfect for me.
Definitely a stumbling block in my hobby process. Thanks for sharing your methods it has given me more tools to tackle this subject. If only more companies were like Eduard's ProfiPack models where masks are included with the kit.
Very informative. I had not heard of many of these methods and for me, some appeal more than others. I am relatively new to the hobby, well not quite true as I am returning to it. Currently I am watching and amassing information and ideas. Yours will be watched many for time I am sure. Now to subscribe to your channel. Thanks.
Glad it was helpful! And welcome back to the hobby - I hope you have fun with it. Give some of these ideas a try and see which ones you like. Many times modelers even hit upon a new method not mentioned, or a hybrid method. It's fun just to experiment. Thanks so much for watching, commenting, and subscribing. Happy day to you friend! :D
Can you recommend a masking fluid? i have an area i cannot mask due to the complexity and is a reasonably large area. This is a clear part that shows the interior. thanks.
Hey Jon, I’m waiting for my parafilm to arrive but in the meantime I was wondering if you had a favorite supplier of pre cut masking sheets? Thanks for your time.
I gave up on the precut stuff actually. It was a "politician's promise..." They sound very promising, but in reality deliver little. When I did use them, I leaned towards Eduard, but even those could be hit or miss. I eventually gave up bothering with them. HTH! Thanks for watching and commenting!
Capillary action tends to suck the paint under the mask. I have had no problems of this kind since I started pushing the airbrush trigger mainly down, and only a little bit backward, so that the airbrush puts out very little paint and a lot of air. Apply many of these dryish coats. Never allow the paint to pool.
Thank you Jonbius-san. You have enlightened me, not only on the techniques but also on living our hobby as well. May Allah shines His light upon you & your family🙏🏻🙂 Nb/ps: Now after 27 years i know how to well use that Parafilm M of mine😅
Depending on the size of the porthole, and its depth, I either used liquid masking fluid (on deeper recesses), or poster putty gently pushed down to the size of the opening. If you have a punch and die set that is the same size as the portholes, you can punch out tape masks that work quite well. HTH - Thanks for watching and commenting!
Yes, but it requires very good masking work that is fully burnished down, and light mist coats from the rattle can in quick passes. Even then it can be tricky. Thanks for watching and commenting!
@@RuweSaare There are a lot of factors involved in that. It's possible to get bleed with any method. There isn't a single method that is 100% bleed free all the time. The best strategy is to try different methods, see which one works best for you and the equipment you have available, and then learn how to deal with any bleed that may happen to occur. That way you will know how to minimize the risk of bleed, and deal with it when it does happen. HTH!
The Parafilm I have is labeled Parafilm M, and is made by Pechiney Plastic Packaging Company. It's 2" wide, though I'm not sure how long the roll is. I used to get it Micro-Mark, but it seems they no longer carry it. (You can see a picture of it in the thumbnail for the video.) HTH! Thanks for watching and commenting!
Oh yes! I had used that method extensively before switching to Parafilm. While it worked very well, I felt it had a few drawbacks that made Parafilm a better choice. For one, the foil still left a bit of residue. Also, the cost was quite a bit more. At the time, I was building 30-35 aircraft a year, so it added up. And as the foil got older, it tended to crack, which made it difficult to work with. Switching to Parafilm took care of all those issues for me. But it definitely works!
If your Future starts thickening up, just save it to make headlight or landing light lens, or control panel dial glass. Just a tiny drop on the end of a toothpick.
A huge problem I have encountered over 45 years of modelbuilding (ww1 & ww2 planes), is people who are completely incapable of using tools, materials, products STILL believing building models is for them. Prime examples being using airbrushes in ways the airbrush is not designed for, leading to massive overspray and orangepeel (I'm watching you "blackbase" idiots). Buying products for top dollar when using a little common sense would let them know how to make the product themselves (Mig/Ammo loves these people). Or buying up all WnW kits just because "it's the latest thing" and the goverment gave you corona money..
I am on my second model aircraft (as an adult). I was a poor kid and could never afford good tools like airbrushes (or other brushes) or fancy masking tapes. My goal is constant improvement with every model, but I know each attempt will be flawed. This video helped me get better for the future (up my game). The things I liked about this video was that you enumerate all the ways you know about and/or tried. This helps because I did not know about parafilm. It also outlined a concept in Japanese culture called "wabi sabi" where we must accept things being imperfect. Each model is my creation and brings back memories dealing with the mistakes and learning. Great work on this video.
Thank you so much for your kind words. And thanks for letting me know about "wabi sabi" - that is interesting.
And thank you for watching and commenting - I am grateful. Have fun with your modeling!
Been modeling since me early teens. Glad that you are part of the hobby and good luck.
Your final notes on having fun and letting go… It’s what i needed to hear before i start this new project. Thank you!
You are so welcome! And thanks so much for the Super Thanks! I am grateful. (And for joining as a patron! :D )
Happy day to you friend!
I modeled for about 30 years but stopped about 10 years ago. Renewed interest with my 13 year old grandson’s interest in the hobby. Used most of these techniques in the past ant this was a great way to review the pros and cons. I have also learned several new things. Thank you.
I'm so glad you found it helpful! I can't wait until my grandsons are old enough to build. Have fun!
Thanks for watching and commenting!
I have say this is one of the best modelling tutorials I have ever seen. Painting/masking canopies has always been a problem for me and therfore a bit discouraging but you have opened to my eyes new possibilities. As well as the technical advice you give being great, your style of presentation is very watchable and engaging and the advice on attitude and approach is very sensible and encouraging. Thank you and I look forward to putting your advice into practice and of course watching more of your videos.
Thanks so much for your kind words! And I am so happy to know the video was helpful. That is always something that encourages me to know.
Thanks so much for watching and commenting. Happy day to you friend!
Great video. I'm new to this and will definitely try the parafilm method. Thanks
Glad it was helpful! Thanks so much for watching and commenting!
The information provided here is worth its weight in gold. Too many experienced modelers feel over time that their methods are best. Bottom line if you stop learning you're going to lose interest soon thereafter. Great video.
I'm glad you enjoyed it! Thanks for your kind words, and for watching and commenting!
Thanks. It gives me the courage to finally attempt my Zero canopy after months (literally) of indecision
Great! Just take your time and you'll get it squared away. Thanks so much for watching and commenting!
Great tips. Best advice you give is right at the end: 'If the goal is to have fun, it doesn't have to be about achieving perfection.' I bet many of us can use that reminder.
Thanks so much! I do hope it is an encouragement to many.
Thanks for watching and commenting!
Hi Jon Thank you for this. The biggest takeaway for me is to leave striving for perfection and to enjoy the hobby. I have ordered my first roll of Parafilm
Yes! If you keep that as Rule #1, and all else points back to that, you will have fun. I think every video I have released basically is summed up in that.
Perfection is impossible. Embrace the imperfection. 😉
Thanks so much for watching and commenting - happy day to you!
Whoever comes out with pre-masked canopies holds the keys to the model aircraft world.
LOL - I bet! The trick would be to get the masking off without leaving all that residue! 😊
Thanks for watching and commenting!
No, he holds the key to the wannabe model airplane builders market. Those models would end up destroyed or in some "stash".
@@PanzerChicken69 Why is that? We mask canopies as it is right now. Some are far, far from “wannabe” builders.
@@crackerbarrel6965 Im talking about the "pre" masked canopy part. Without masking it would simply be painted over, right?
started modeling again since I've been retired. It gives me great satisfaction every part of it my skill is increased and I really enjoyed building these models. Except for Caterpies. This video is giving me the courage to move on with them and I'm going to try some this afternoon It is also a very clear video on what to expect and definitely the one thing you do is sit down and take your time. I'm right there with you Thanks again for this video excellent
Welcome back to the hobby, and congratulations on retiring! You are right - the road to success with canopies is patience! Enjoy the process. And thank you for watching and commenting!
Jon, a couple of simple tips that I find help. For a mini scraper, cut one end of a toothpick @ about 45 degrees or into a chisel shape point with a craft knife. Wooden coffee stirrers cut straight across @ an angle make a cheap burnisher. Liquid masking has been easier to cut & remove when you use several (3 or 4) coats of it. Vinyl contact paper is one of my favorite masking materials. You have some great content videos Jon. I've been a 1/24 model car builder & slot car racer for over 50 years. I don't do either steadily anymore, but occasionally I will still get involved. I first airbrushed in 1970 using a single action Binks. I still have it & three others, but they see limited use today.
Great information, and thanks for your kind words, and watching and commenting! I am grateful.
I'm late to the party, but great tips. I do build for contests, those models get the "tried and true" techniques I've worked on in the past 30 years. The personal builds, trying new things all of the time. In the past 2 years, trying Mr. Surfacer for seam lines. Man, so good, now will go into the contest models. Also, for practice, the table top gaming (Flames of War, etc.) products are great to work with. Easy builds and hey, you may want to play the games when you're done!
Thanks for the great videos!
Thanks for the kind words, and thank you for watching and commenting!
I must admit I was really skeptical. I figured every method you were going to review, would be the same old tired ones I’ve tried before with little success. I couldn’t have been more wrong. Your video was packed with relevant and actionable information. Thank you very much! My Parafilm is on its way. I can’t wait to get started. Again, thank you Sir.
Thanks so much for your kind words, and I'm so glad you found it helpful! I hope you enjoy using the Parafilm.
Thanks for watching and commenting!
G'day Jon, 'Goose' here... No, I just wanted to prove I saw your 'Easter Egg' at the very end. Once again, Jon, that was a great video. People sometimes tell me I write comments that are too long, well, what can I say, I'm a writer... semi-retired but still writing around 1500 words a day... because I can and I'd just feel weird if I didn't. Just like modelling. A day without modelling is either a bad day or Christmas Day!
What do I write? Well, mostly I write about military history. I was in the RAAF and got bitten by the old aircraft bug. I started talking to older pilots and aircrew; I started doing research and discovered I loved it.
As for modelling, my specialty is Allied WW2 aircraft. Then I started to research Korean war aircraft which took me through the early jets and took my aircraft history interest up till about the late 70s, which is the time I got out of the RAAF to write full time. I must say that I think modern aircraft, although technologically amazing, they leave me stone cold. They are all shades of haze grey with very little artwork and colour.
You gave fantastic advice on canopies. Any of us who have worked on many, many aircraft learn to get over 'Canopy Fear' and just treat it like another enjoyable session of tiny problem solving. I've done every masking method you mentioned, except for the parafilm. I've not seen or heard of it before.
I'll buy some when the USPS drags itself out of its obscene package price rises. It has stopped me from dealing with many of my US suppliers; many of whom have become my friends over the years.
I had the sad task of telling my good mates, John and Vanessa who run Old Model Kits on the internet that I couldn't trade with them until the USPS gets back to logical, fair shipping charges. They lost their international customers almost overnight, after the Postmaster General (appointed by the previous POTUS) decided he disliked international postage recipients and increased shipping fees by as much as five fold. (Don't get me started!)
Anyway, canopies; after trying all manner of potions, tapes, fluids and voodoo chanting, I decided to just paint the canopy frames freehand with various brands of acrylics. Although, I think the pigments in the ‘Vallejo Air’ paints are pretty good value with real depth of colour.
I made myself a small canopy 'jig' which I clamp underneath a magnifying lamp and use the tiniest brush I can find that holds a decent amount of paint.
In the mornings, after a couple of mugs of tea, I can have a nice steady hand for about three hours and that usually does it.
I had my 67th birthday three days ago and I'm way past agonising over minute detail. Like you, I take it slow and just get on with the job.
During my RAAF service I learned so much from being up close and personal with our older aircraft and the canopy frames, inside and out were, in reality, pretty shoddy anyway, because they were well down the agenda of the Surface Finishers. They take a huge amount of wear and tear, so to speak.
Likewise with our early jets, like the Australian CAC CA-27 AVON Sabre squadrons. They were kept with polished bare metal with vividly coloured flashes all over the wings and stabilisers. They looked great.
When I came to try those 'bare metal' sheets on models like the AVON Sabre I learned that the filament sheets were extremely fragile. As years passed, those models I used the metal sheets on began to degrade even though they had a sealing gloss coat, prior to decaling, and sometimes two coats of clear semi-matt topcoats. It is just the nature of that product. Now I use metal paints that can be polished after they have cured hard. That seems to have worked fine on models that I finished some years ago.
Old aircraft had, I believe, a real 'spirit' and 'personality' all their own. I love the way the old USN Gloss Dark Blue on carrier based Corsairs faded so badly leaving motley patches of different hues of blue; it gave each aircraft a unique character and bore witness to how hard they were flown and the toll of constant exposure to salt sea spray. Something for a modeller to get their teeth into. Even the B-17s, most of which were covered in olive drab livery still had so many variances and, always, wonderful 'nose art'.
Finally, because I'm waffling on here... I went through a phase, like everyone, of using Pledge or Future or Humperdinck, or whatever it's called this month. It gave me some fantastic results until I remembered that when I was in the Air Force, I never saw an old canopy that pristine. So I stopped doing it.
Sorry to ramble on, but I stayed up really late to catch up on your videos and now it's not long before breakfast, but it's been well worth it.
Thank you, Jon. It's a great pity we can't meet up and talk modelling. Sadly, my doctors tell me I can't fly anymore. Just about the final, ironic insult for an old RAAFy Chappie like me. Oh, well, we age, we adapt and move forward.
Cheers, mate and all the very best to you.
Bill Halliwell
Hey Bill! It's great to hear from you! What wonderful stories - thank you for sharing them. And thanks your kind words too, as well as for watching and commenting! Happy day to you friend!
Thanks Jon! Didn't know about para tape, will search for it!
Thanks for watching and commenting!
The Parafilm is great stuff! It's so very useful for masking.
this looks great , normally you can't see the edges of the cockpit frame even through Tamiya masking tape unles they have a good ridge around them.
I’m using a method you didn’t mention - a hybrid method. Thinner slices of masking tape around the canopy edges (so they adhere to compound curves better) and then filling the center in with liquid mask.
Yep - I've used that. It certainly works. Thanks!
I found that the liquid mask (VMS) leaves quite a bit of residue. I assume that it will come out with Novus1, but I am going to wait a few days to ensure that the frame paint is totally cured --wouldn't want to have the Novus1 obliterate the frame paint now!
It turns out that Novus will not get rid of the VMS liquid mask residue! I am going to have to wipe out everything and start from scratch again. I will never again use liquid mask to complete the masking of a canopy. ☹
@@jesusdapena1296 I'm sorry to hear that! Perhaps try something like Parafilm?
My favourite, too!
Thankyou so much for taking your time to explain different ways of masking and how not to get to a stage where perfection is paramount. I now have enough moxi to deal with my models canopy which has many windows. Gulp! here I go .
I'm glad it was helpful! Take your time and it will work out just fine. :)
Thanks for watching and commenting. Happy day to you friend!
Very informative. Thanks Jon for sharing this - lots of useful information! I also think your emphasis on just having fun is important to keep in mind. Every model has it's good and bad points. Along with having fun, you can ask if you learned anything which will improve the next one.
Absolutely! Have fun, and keep learning.
Thanks so much for watching and commenting!
I would like to add another cautionary note with sticky tapes. I discovered the flexible curvy tapes for those wavy lines one wants. I thought it would simplify things. Imagine my surprise after stickng the tape down on the desired forms, stepping back to admire the work before painting, and seeing tape pulling away from the forms I am trying to achieve or protect. So you redo the masking because the stuff does not "correct". Turns out, it is "curvy" because of its elastic composition. Once placed along the curves, it shrinks and moves from its intended location because we naturally have a tendancy to "stretch" it some to conform with our desired lines. Correcting "in-situ" only stretches it again before it shrinks back once more. Hope this helps. Great video.
Thanks so much for watching and commenting!
great vid Jon! I like your approach to laying out all the options with pros and cons. It definitely takes a little practice and finding your favorite method. I've tried most of them and the pre-cut masks are the way for me if I'm feeling lazy. Otherwise it's Tamiya tape. One item on that, if the canopy has a straight edge, I use the straight edge of the tape and line it along the edge, that's one less side I have to cut! I have been thinking about the Parafilm method for some time and may need to pick some up.
Thanks so much!
Tamiya is easy for those "right angle" type masking scenarios. I still use it from time to time for that. Parafilm definitely wins the days when there are a lot of angles and curves involved in my opinion. Give it a try and see what you think!
Thanks so much for watching and commenting!
Thanks Jon, your how-to was very helpful. It's been 60 years since I built a model and things have changed since then. I have a couple of health issues which restrict what I can do so I thought I'd try modelling again. Although the eyes are weaker and the hands are shakier , I just take my time and have fun.🇨🇦
That's the main thing - take your time and have fun! Enjoy the hobby your way.
And thank you for your kind words, and for watching and commenting!
Just about to jump back in after xxx decades of not modelling and it feels like there are so many options available but this is the first video I've seen that gives such a comprehensive comparison of the options. Thank you for the information and I think parafilm is certainly one to try.
Great video, thanks.
"Talk to me Goose 😂😂"
Welcome back to the hobby! I hope you have a fun time with it. And thanks for your kind words. I'm so glad that you found the video helpful.
Thanks for watching and commenting - happy day to you friend!
6:28 I have a metal "burnisher" , by Rotring ( for rubbing down "Letraset dry lettering" , remember that ??) its like a pen handle and tapers to a small tip like the rounded side of a spoon . This makes sure the edges are stuck down ! 😄😄 wish they still did Letraset it could be very useful but needed a flat-ish area to apply onto . Wales UK.
That's a handy tool!
Great job! I too am very comfortable masking as all I build is aircraft. I always enjoy watching other modelers thinking. I like your demeanor
Thank you so much! I am grateful for your kind comments.
Happy modeling!
Thank you Jon. I’ve learned from this video and I’ll be applying these methods soon. You’re very much appreciated. 👌👍
I'm so glad to hear it was helpful, and I'm grateful for your kind words. Thank you so much for watching and commenting! :D
Hi Jon, an message and compliment from the Netherlands. I normally do vehicles and I have searched an long time for a good way to work on the transparants. I have tried your
method to paint it with acryl paint and than remove the rest with an toothpick and it works perfectly. Before I have always made the "black rubbers" with an permanent marker form edding but
you had to be very carefull, no you can make some faults and you can remove it. Thanks for the tips.
René de Caluwé, The Nether;lands
Hi René - I'm so glad you found that method helpful! I'm always happy to know that the videos are useful in helping people in the hobby.
Thanks so much for watching and commenting - happy day to you! Jon - North Carolina, USA
Just about to mask a canopy with Micro Mask and thought I should get some advice. I used to free-hand it (years ago) and things usually got ugly but hey, it's the 21st century! Things have changed, right? Well, my hands shake more than ever but I am much more cunning now - there's YT now, full of advice and how-to's. Hmm .... luckily there's Jon Bius giving some sound advice to balance the three minute marvels. Thankyou Jon! I'm off to practice enjoying myself.
I'm glad you found it useful! Thanks so much for watching and commenting. Happy day to you! 😊
Thank you so much. Very informative and helpful advices.
I'm glad you found it helpful! Thanks so much for watching and commenting!
Jon, you have a really good channel. I just discovered and this was a very good session. I plan to use the parafilm from now on whenever I can. I tried the bare metal foil method but I found it very difficult to use. One problem is that I have limited time and it takes me awhile to get back to the canopy if I'm working on something else. Bare metal foil stuck to the canopy so tight when I tried it and it had been sitting for so long it was really difficult to get it off. As for the enemy of good enough is perfect, I learned that in the army. But that did not stop me from trying to be a perfectionist with model airplanes. I spent years trying to learn how to scribe panel lines on monogram kits. It nearly destroyed my interest in this hobby and in my opinion it isn't worth the effort. I just reduce and highlight raises detail on old kits now.
Thanks so much for your kind words, and for watching and commenting!
I agree - there are things in modeling that the payoff and the effort required just don't balance out. Have fun with it - that's what matters!
AATW!
Great tips ty. I'm a car guy so this will be my first canopy and can use all the help I can get lol.
Thanks so much! I'm glad it was helpful. Patience is the key!
Thanks so much for watching and commenting!
Love your advice and knowledge of scale modeling.
I appreciate that! And thank you for watching and commenting!
Cheers Jon, I appreciate the time you took to make this video. Some really great points you’ve made. Thank you
Glad you enjoyed it! Thanks for watching and commenting! 😊
Speaking of masking methods, before I learned about Tamiya masking tape, I discovered that Scotch Magic tape was perfect for masking clear parts. Then I tried the Tamiya, but I really stuck with the Scotch Magic tape. The Tamiya seems great for masking to paint the kit, but for the clear parts, Magic tape is perfect for me.
Definitely a stumbling block in my hobby process. Thanks for sharing your methods it has given me more tools to tackle this subject. If only more companies were like Eduard's ProfiPack models where masks are included with the kit.
Glad to help! Thanks for watching and commenting!
Those masks are a nice inclusion aren't they?
Excellent tips Jon, good time too. Thank you No mask needed in our car. Be safe.
Thanks so much John!
I liked the part about perfection. That is a trap I was stuck in for the longest time, and going for perfect took a lot of the fun away.
It can definitely be a trap! I have to remind myself of that continually.
Thanks for watching and commenting!
Good to see your channel jwb! Thanks for sharing.
Thanks so much! I am grateful!
I had never thought about Parafilm. I need to give that a try.
It's great stuff! Thanks for watching and commenting.
Thank you very much for this valuable information. That was right that I was searching for!
Glad it was helpful! Thanks so much for watching and commenting!
35 aircraft a year! thats a full time job!
WELL DONE!
It did keep me busy! One year I actually did 39!😴😅
Thanks for this video on Masking. It was helpful. Also, thanks for the chuckles in through it.
I'm so glad you enjoyed it! Thanks for watching and commenting. 😊
Very informative. I had not heard of many of these methods and for me, some appeal more than others. I am relatively new to the hobby, well not quite true as I am returning to it. Currently I am watching and amassing information and ideas. Yours will be watched many for time I am sure. Now to subscribe to your channel.
Thanks.
Glad it was helpful! And welcome back to the hobby - I hope you have fun with it. Give some of these ideas a try and see which ones you like. Many times modelers even hit upon a new method not mentioned, or a hybrid method. It's fun just to experiment.
Thanks so much for watching, commenting, and subscribing. Happy day to you friend! :D
Thank you for this, very useful tips.
Glad it was helpful! Thanks for watching and commenting!
masking is one thing I really hate, but this has given me some really great tips. Thanks.
Glad to hear it - thank you watching and commenting! Happy day to you!
Thanks for the information.
Thanks so much for watching and commenting!
Great info for a newbie. Thanks. Now if I can figure out how to reform a fuselage on a B-2 .
Thanks for watching and commenting!
However you do it, do it stealthily! 🤣
@@JonBius Right...I need to heat the plastic to move it so the clear plastic will fit. Never had to do this before.
Man talks a lot of sense. Liked and subbed. Cheers, Dan
Thanks so very much - I am grateful! Happy day to you!
Thanks for your very helpful video
Thanks so much for watching and commenting! Happy day to you!
Great summation..
Thanks for watching and commenting!
Can you recommend a masking fluid? i have an area i cannot mask due to the complexity and is a reasonably large area. This is a clear part that shows the interior. thanks.
Most masking fluids will work fine. Vallejo is always a good bet though - give them a try!
Thanks for watching and commenting!
Hey Jon, I’m waiting for my parafilm to arrive but in the meantime I was wondering if you had a favorite supplier of pre cut masking sheets? Thanks for your time.
I gave up on the precut stuff actually. It was a "politician's promise..." They sound very promising, but in reality deliver little.
When I did use them, I leaned towards Eduard, but even those could be hit or miss. I eventually gave up bothering with them.
HTH! Thanks for watching and commenting!
Another great video, Jon!
Glad you enjoyed it! Thanks so much for watching and commenting!
this is great Jon!! I have been having trouble with leaking around the tape. Thanks!
I'm so glad to know this has been helpful!
Thanks for watching and commenting!
make sure you press the edges down ! this is what people forget .
@@fredtedstedman Thanks!
Capillary action tends to suck the paint under the mask. I have had no problems of this kind since I started pushing the airbrush trigger mainly down, and only a little bit backward, so that the airbrush puts out very little paint and a lot of air. Apply many of these dryish coats. Never allow the paint to pool.
@@jesusdapena1296 Thank you!!!
I love the chapter index so I can jump right to where I want to go. 👍. Masking canopies is something struggle with.
Glad you like those! And I hope you found the video to be helpful.
Thanks for watching and commenting!
@@JonBius It does help. Your videos are easy to watch and understand. Other RUclipsrs explain something without showing examples. You do. 👍
@@Talon0524 Thank you so much! 😁
The info. is great...but I really apreciate your presentation style...you're easy to listen to.
I appreciate that - thank you so much!
And thanks for watching and commenting!
Thank you very much!
You're welcome! Thanks so much for watching and commenting!
Thanks for the video.
Thank you for watching and commenting!
Jon great information.
Thanks so much for watching and commenting! 😊
Is there a specific brand or type of parafilm you would recommend? I'm struggling with this aspect, building my first kit in decades.
Parafilm M is the brand to look for! If you're in the US, I think micromark.com carries it.
Thanks for watching and commenting!
Thanks for the info.
Thank you for watching and commenting - I am grateful!
Good stuff, Thanks.
Glad you enjoyed it! Thanks for watching and commenting!
Thank you Jonbius-san. You have enlightened me, not only on the techniques but also on living our hobby as well. May Allah shines His light upon you & your family🙏🏻🙂 Nb/ps: Now after 27 years i know how to well use that Parafilm M of mine😅
I'm glad you found it helpful! Thanks for watching and commenting!
Thanks for the tips !
No problem! Thanks for watching and commenting!
GOOD VIDEO...CHEERS FROM ENGLAND AND A NEW SUBSCRIBER
Thanks for the sub, for watching, and for your kind words! Happy day to you!
Wondering what your thoughts are about masking porthole windows on civilian airliners.
Depending on the size of the porthole, and its depth, I either used liquid masking fluid (on deeper recesses), or poster putty gently pushed down to the size of the opening.
If you have a punch and die set that is the same size as the portholes, you can punch out tape masks that work quite well.
HTH - Thanks for watching and commenting!
I’ve always used Scotch tape. I’ll have to try Parafilm.
Give it a shot! I think you'll like it!
Thanks for watching and commenting!
Is it possible to paint with spray cans without paint bleeding under the masking tape?
Yes, but it requires very good masking work that is fully burnished down, and light mist coats from the rattle can in quick passes. Even then it can be tricky.
Thanks for watching and commenting!
@@JonBius Is it easier to just brush paint then? Are the bleeding possibility smaller?
@@RuweSaare There are a lot of factors involved in that. It's possible to get bleed with any method. There isn't a single method that is 100% bleed free all the time.
The best strategy is to try different methods, see which one works best for you and the equipment you have available, and then learn how to deal with any bleed that may happen to occur. That way you will know how to minimize the risk of bleed, and deal with it when it does happen. HTH!
Quick question. Amazon lists several types of parafilm, which type are you using? Thanks for that. Then...excellent video!!!
The Parafilm I have is labeled Parafilm M, and is made by Pechiney Plastic Packaging Company. It's 2" wide, though I'm not sure how long the roll is. I used to get it Micro-Mark, but it seems they no longer carry it. (You can see a picture of it in the thumbnail for the video.) HTH!
Thanks for watching and commenting!
@@JonBius Thanks very much!
hey jon i like the pun you make in almot evry video!
Thanks! They're jest in pun! 🤣🤣
This is the way!
Thanks so much for watching and commenting!
The other method I hear about is using Bare Metal Foil as a masking material. Have you ever tried that before?
Oh yes! I had used that method extensively before switching to Parafilm. While it worked very well, I felt it had a few drawbacks that made Parafilm a better choice.
For one, the foil still left a bit of residue. Also, the cost was quite a bit more. At the time, I was building 30-35 aircraft a year, so it added up. And as the foil got older, it tended to crack, which made it difficult to work with.
Switching to Parafilm took care of all those issues for me.
But it definitely works!
If your Future starts thickening up, just save it to make headlight or landing light lens, or control panel dial glass. Just a tiny drop on the end of a toothpick.
Good advice! Thanks for watching and commenting!
Has anyone attempted to use Reynolds Wrap brand Press N’ Seal film as you would Parafilm?
I haven't, but I reckon it's worth a shot! Thanks for watching and commenting!
Top gun 🤘🏽🤘🏽🤘🏽❤️❤️❤️
😁🤣🤣😎
The foil it oxidizes with contatact with oxygen over time
That it does! That's another reason Iike Parafilm. 😊
Thanks for watching and commenting!
I use it to mask camo in 1/72 wwii planes.
A huge problem I have encountered over 45 years of modelbuilding (ww1 & ww2 planes), is people who are completely incapable of using tools, materials, products STILL believing building models is for them. Prime examples being using airbrushes in ways the airbrush is not designed for, leading to massive overspray and orangepeel (I'm watching you "blackbase" idiots). Buying products for top dollar when using a little common sense would let them know how to make the product themselves (Mig/Ammo loves these people). Or buying up all WnW kits just because "it's the latest thing" and the goverment gave you corona money..
Thanks for watching and commenting~
@@JonBius You are welcome
Thanks, good info.
Thanks, and thanks for watching and commenting!