With resin prints especially, I've found that the stuff softens when heated. Thin parts can warp! The reason gotcha here is that the curing process heats up the resin. As the part prints, it's being pulled off the build plate and this can cause defects in the softened resin. I don't have a good solution for everyone, but there are options. Taking the time to learn a slicer software means you can add more supports - better support keeps delicate parts in place. Alternatively, the harder route is to learn software like Blender, and thicken up thin parts directly - under the hood for example A bit of a tangent, based on 5:32, people who print dice add a TON of supports along straight "hanging" edges like the back of that bumper. Practically a solid wall of support for each edge; and then they trim the support off and sand the support nubs flat
Thanks for watching. This was an early print for me. Since then, I’ve upgraded printers and learned more about slicing and supporting. Watch one my recent videos and you’ll see a vast improvement.
a trick I learned to avoid the color bleeding under the tape is to spray the base color first after masking that way only the base color bleeds and do the black on top.
Hi FedEx, the only reason I got bleed through was because I was an idiot and didn’t double check to ensure everywhere was covered. There was no tape where the black was. I like your tip though! Thanks for watching 👍
Yeah, I'm one of those guys that slaps a big ole piece of tape over it and cuts it out,, lol. But it's always cool to see other ways to do things. Cool video.
I enjoyed the video. I do something similar, but I cut the tape on “wax paper” to ensure to keep max adhesion. I can also suggest nixing the toothpick and using a pencil. Slides super nice (because graphite) and you can sharpen or blunt the tip and it leaves a great visible line to cut etc.
heck yes would love to see you build the kit ( 3d Printed BMW M4 ) thanks for the tips on masking as with painting it is kind of an art well done thanks enjoyed oh and for your question yes guess its still box stock just like the car 3D box stock think the light will look good when all done..
Tape does not bend, as you can see over your doors. The result is always a messy, saw-toothed trim line. The places where you cut the tape in this video are flawless. It takes me a half hour to fully mask a car with the 'fresh exacto' cutting method. If you do make a mistake and cut into the painted area (which is easy to avoid, just press lightly), you can't see it at all. It's a way better option than 'bending' tape.
That’s a great tip. I usually clear before masking so I can quickly get rid of any overspray. That’s what I get for being in a hurry this time. Thanks for watching👍
Nice tutorial there James, thanks for taking the time to film and share with us all. I use the same method as you too, cut strips of tape and attach those. I don't cut along the lines as I'm always afraid the paint will get pulled too. However I also perform the masking procedure on a layer of 2K clear, never on the paint directly. I would like to see more updates on the M4, so please do share more progress with us all.
Hi Karl, that’s what I get for being in a hurry and skipping the inter clear coat. Ole Murphy taught me a lesson for it. The Porsche is painted, cleared and polished so any over spray will wipe right off when I do the trim on that one. That video is coming soon. Thanks for your support bud, much appreciated 👍
With regard to layer lines etc I used to remove every little imperfection, I might spend 20 hours getting a panel line perfect. I started to hate this aspect. Now I just clean things up as much as I can and get on with painting. I’m enjoying building much more and I’m actually getting kits finished.
Thank you Cycolac, I needed that! I kill myself sometimes trying to make everything so perfect and forget that this hobby is supposed to be fun. I appreciate your help and support.👍
@@ScaleModelExperiment when I was a kid I built a model in a weekend, now they take at least a month. After a couple of months I usually get bored of it. I’ve found shelf models solve the problem. No real research about colours, engine details etc. I just glue it together, paint the underside black, have five minutes thought about bodywork and interior colour and just do it. It’s quite liberating 😉
I need a lot more patience Shawn! Ever see Karl’s channel JDM24scale? He takes his time and does everything right. I need to slow down and quit rushing 😁 I appreciate you brother!
I think if you are talking box stock which is building a kit with all the parts provides by the manufacturer, if you consider the designer the manufacturer, then after printing all the parts from the designer you would have a box kit, so if you build it as is, that would be box stock. Not sure how that would fly at a model show but it is clearly a direction this hobby is moving toward. Maybe a printed category will become the norm for events.
@@ScaleModelExperiment Great video, take this the right way please... Really got a lot out of seeing you make those couple of mistakes and how you corrected it. Subscribed and will be watching more mate. 👍
Great Video James. Thanks for sharing your technique. Why not show the rest of the M4. I don't believe anyone else has shown it built???? Interesting color. I'll be watching
Great topic. Exploring different types of tapes would be very helpful, especially for sharper curves like the bow or stern of a ship at the waterline or camo on a plane. Vinyl tape is supposed to easily form curves, but I struggle with even the thinnest vinyl tape to get a tight curve. I've seen it stretched a bit before applying, but I find it looses it's tack when stretched and still bunches up on the inside of the curve. AK makes a "masking tape for curves." Is this stuff any good? Any and all help would be appreciated.
I have some of the Tamiya tape for curves but haven’t used it in a while. I’ve found that the thinner the strip the better the curve. I just messed up the total coverage because I couldn’t see the tape on the body. Take care and thanks for watching 👍
Thanks for watching Flaretreks, I will be applying 2k clear now that the body is ready. I’m unsure that I would get a bad reaction with the clear and compound. Better safe than sorry.
you make me nervous cutting that tape right on the body. It takes experience, a sharp knife and a gentle touch, which you have. I never overlap tape I either but the prices up to eachother or use masking fluid.
I don’t like to cut on the body either. Some people do it often but it makes me nervous too. I should use masking fluid more often as I use a lot of tape!
Few questions. 1- why not just buy some 1mm or 2mm Tamiya tape instead of cutting the strips? 2- you said you could run into “trouble” doing the one big piece of tape around the window and trimming it. What trouble are you referring to? 3- why not use the pipette to draw the paint out of the bottle and also to put it in your airbrush instead of pouring? Great video and great information. Thanks
Hi again HandsOver, someone once told me that the tape edge is not ideal so a cut edge is better. Plus I get more mileage out of the 18mm tape by cutting it into strips. Trouble meaning that you are cutting the paint itself and risk lifting a layer of paint when you take the tape off. I’m silly cheap with some stuff and Pipettes are one of them. I reuse them for thinner and throw them away when they quit working. I can’t imagine trying to clean paint out of them… Thanks for watching and supporting the channel. I appreciate it.
Awesome masking technique! To answer the question, Yes I hate masking... Lol The way I see it, any demonstration you do has no baring on the model/printed model. If it pertains to the hobby, who care's what it is on. 🤔😎 Thanks for the video! LLAP 🖖
Any hints on masking the inside of rims. I get it done but I'm always willing to learn new methods. What a mess I made with my lotus 99t . I tried to put a matching stripe around the inside free hand and did well on the rears but I had to strip the fronts and start over
I’m not sure I understand, but I bought a circle template on Amazon for less than $5. I put the tape down on the cutting mat, trace the circle onto with pen and cut with a hobby knife. You can either use the middle or the outer to mask with.
@@ScaleModelExperiment I have that circle cutter thing that cost $50 and a regular aluminum circle templet like you mentioned. The technique you mention does work well, but I’m talking about a thin line on the inside wall of the hub itself. I tried a short pin striping brush with decanted Tamiya brilliant yellow ( incorrect but close enough) while spinning the wheel on a wooden dowel. I can’t get a consistent line at that angle. I guess I’ll try masking it or push the whole rim into a paint loaded ink pad and then wipe the edge.
@robertmassucci1 I understand now, just the edge of the rim. You’re on your own with that. I’ve never tried it. Please let me know if you figure out a good way to do it.
To finish the original story, after deciding to strip the two front rims, I accidentally picked up one of the two good rears and stripped that one by accident. What an idiot I am
Hi Peter, thanks for watching. I use an Anycubic Mono X2 printer and water washable resin. Here is link to the files: cults3d.com/en/3d-model/game/bmw-m4-2021
Great video James, 3D printed wow cool. So the tape you cut into strips was "3M masking tape"? I use the same, the thinner you cut the "strips" of tape the tighter the curve you can take. Also I have never seen a black Q-tip....Great video as always, thanks for sharing.
Thanks for watching 👍 the tape I use is Tamiya 18mm tape and yes I like to cut the thin strips to bend it around turns. The black q-tips are something I picked up in Japan. Silly aren’t they?
I use a Piece a glass to lay my tape on to cut when I'm cutting my thin strips for pinstriping or from my low rider designs. And use Automotive masking tape 3m I get mine from walmart and it's the same color as the frog tape that's Stuff sucks I hate frog tape wast of money
I always did the trim free hand, but when I started taping the lines, wow the difference. I enjoy the build. Thanks.
Thanks for watching Luna, I love crisp clean lines and smooth paint. My brush painting skills suck so I have to do what I do… 👍
I always want to see all of yours builds.
Thanks so much John! I appreciate your support bud.👍
It never occurred to me to use thin strips of tape to outline, genius idea. I'll also use the liquid mask/toothpick trick. Great tips, thanks.
Hi Larry, I learned the technique from a Japanese modeler Ao-San on RUclips. He is the master masker. Thanks for watching 👍
Keep doing what you enjoy. After all it is a hobby and should be fun for you James.
Thanks MMM, I appreciate your support bud!
I need to try more multi color paint jobs. Thanks for showing your method James!
Absolutely bud! Thanks for watching 👍
Thank you for taking the time to share your tips and tricks. It is very helpful. Keep modeling! Keep the videos coming!
Absolutely my pleasure Ronald, I’ve gotten a lot of positive feedback from the community so I’ll continue with the build. Thanks for watching.
Nice masking tutorial James. I'm always interested in your builds. Thanks for the video 😎👍
Thanks for watching Mike. I appreciate your support👍
Yes I like content like this. Thanks for the tips! Keep building!! Cheers!
Thanks so much for watching Rolland. I have gotten a lot of positive feedback so I will continue with this build on the channel. 👍
Great tutorial. Thanks for sharing James! 😎🇨🇦
Thanks for watching Peter 👍 I appreciate your support.
With resin prints especially, I've found that the stuff softens when heated. Thin parts can warp! The reason gotcha here is that the curing process heats up the resin. As the part prints, it's being pulled off the build plate and this can cause defects in the softened resin.
I don't have a good solution for everyone, but there are options. Taking the time to learn a slicer software means you can add more supports - better support keeps delicate parts in place.
Alternatively, the harder route is to learn software like Blender, and thicken up thin parts directly - under the hood for example
A bit of a tangent, based on 5:32, people who print dice add a TON of supports along straight "hanging" edges like the back of that bumper. Practically a solid wall of support for each edge; and then they trim the support off and sand the support nubs flat
Thanks for watching. This was an early print for me. Since then, I’ve upgraded printers and learned more about slicing and supporting. Watch one my recent videos and you’ll see a vast improvement.
@@ScaleModelExperiment Always good to see the journey; I'm still learning as I go myself 👍
@@nonamo5700 thanks for all of your help 👍
Thank you for sharing your technic, James.
Thank you for watching ModelRestorations, I appreciate your support 👍
Good tips on masking. That's looking good.
Thank you so much for watching Alva, I appreciate your support 👍
Great masking tutorial! It was great to see you on Model Car Muse!
Thanks Swamp Fox, that was amazing for Doug to consider me and my work as worthy of being on his channel. I’m honored. Thanks for all of your support.
a trick I learned to avoid the color bleeding under the tape is to spray the base color first after masking that way only the base color bleeds and do the black on top.
Hi FedEx, the only reason I got bleed through was because I was an idiot and didn’t double check to ensure everywhere was covered. There was no tape where the black was. I like your tip though! Thanks for watching 👍
She's looking good.
Thanks Travis 👍
Yeah, I'm one of those guys that slaps a big ole piece of tape over it and cuts it out,, lol. But it's always cool to see other ways to do things. Cool video.
Thanks for watching Justin, I really appreciate your support.
this is the way
I enjoyed the video. I do something similar, but I cut the tape on “wax paper” to ensure to keep max adhesion.
I can also suggest nixing the toothpick and using a pencil. Slides super nice (because graphite) and you can sharpen or blunt the tip and it leaves a great visible line to cut etc.
That’s a great idea to use a pencil. Thanks for the tip! I appreciate you watching and commenting👍
heck yes would love to see you build the kit ( 3d Printed BMW M4 ) thanks for the tips on masking as with painting it is kind of an art well done thanks enjoyed oh and for your question yes guess its still box stock just like the car 3D box stock think the light will look good when all done..
Thanks for watching the video Deen, I appreciate your support and answering my questions. The show will go on!
Very cool! Thanks for sharing.
Thanks for watching Alan! I appreciate you man!
Tape does not bend, as you can see over your doors. The result is always a messy, saw-toothed trim line. The places where you cut the tape in this video are flawless. It takes me a half hour to fully mask a car with the 'fresh exacto' cutting method. If you do make a mistake and cut into the painted area (which is easy to avoid, just press lightly), you can't see it at all. It's a way better option than 'bending' tape.
Thanks for watching and commenting. 👍
Very nice masking technique. Very similar to how I mask. Keep doing videos on this one. Thanks for sharing.
Thanks Michael, I appreciate all of your support.
Thanks James, much appreciated !
Thanks so much Andrew for watching 👍
Love It, Keep them coming.
Thanks Terry for watching, I really do appreciate it.
Great tips James! That's gonna be cool when finished.
Thanks for watching Jeff, I agree with you, I have a difficult interior scheme to mask when the body is done. I appreciate you man!
A trick to help stop any bleed thru under the tape is to hit it all with a mist coat of clear after masking and before the second color.
That’s a great tip. I usually clear before masking so I can quickly get rid of any overspray. That’s what I get for being in a hurry this time. Thanks for watching👍
Thanks for sharing this masking video with us Sir. It would be cool if you decide to do more of them for us.👌👌
Thanks Willy for watching, with all of the feedback I’ll continue to make more videos like this.
Thank you, I love how to videos, very informative
Thanks for watching Terry, I appreciate the feedback.
Great demonstration, thank you. I’m always looking for new techniques or ways to improve present one’s. Car’s turning into a real looker.
Thanks Antitheseis, wait till you see the interior I want to do for it. It’ll take some masking too…. Stay tuned. Thanks for your support bud.
Nice tutorial there James, thanks for taking the time to film and share with us all. I use the same method as you too, cut strips of tape and attach those. I don't cut along the lines as I'm always afraid the paint will get pulled too. However I also perform the masking procedure on a layer of 2K clear, never on the paint directly. I would like to see more updates on the M4, so please do share more progress with us all.
Hi Karl, that’s what I get for being in a hurry and skipping the inter clear coat. Ole Murphy taught me a lesson for it. The Porsche is painted, cleared and polished so any over spray will wipe right off when I do the trim on that one. That video is coming soon. Thanks for your support bud, much appreciated 👍
With regard to layer lines etc I used to remove every little imperfection, I might spend 20 hours getting a panel line perfect. I started to hate this aspect. Now I just clean things up as much as I can and get on with painting. I’m enjoying building much more and I’m actually getting kits finished.
Thank you Cycolac, I needed that! I kill myself sometimes trying to make everything so perfect and forget that this hobby is supposed to be fun. I appreciate your help and support.👍
@@ScaleModelExperiment when I was a kid I built a model in a weekend, now they take at least a month. After a couple of months I usually get bored of it.
I’ve found shelf models solve the problem. No real research about colours, engine details etc. I just glue it together, paint the underside black, have five minutes thought about bodywork and interior colour and just do it. It’s quite liberating 😉
Hell yes! Thanks bud!
You have a lot of patience James ❤❤
I need a lot more patience Shawn! Ever see Karl’s channel JDM24scale? He takes his time and does everything right. I need to slow down and quit rushing 😁 I appreciate you brother!
I think if you are talking box stock which is building a kit with all the parts provides by the manufacturer, if you consider the designer the manufacturer, then after printing all the parts from the designer you would have a box kit, so if you build it as is, that would be box stock. Not sure how that would fly at a model show but it is clearly a direction this hobby is moving toward. Maybe a printed category will become the norm for events.
Thanks Spencer for your well thought out response. I agree 100% 😁. I also see a new category at contests soon of printed kits. Take care my friend👍
Clean work. I really dislike working with masking that is the same color as the item I'm working on.
That was a huge mistake on my part. I have a different color tape now just for Yellow cars.👍 thanks for watching.
Nice one, been looking for a detailed tutorial on masking
Thanks so much for watching Spaceman, I really appreciate the support.👍
@@ScaleModelExperiment Great video, take this the right way please... Really got a lot out of seeing you make those couple of mistakes and how you corrected it. Subscribed and will be watching more mate. 👍
Thank you Spaceman, nobody is perfect. When things happen we learn how to solve the problems. I take no offense at all. Thanks for your support👍
Great Video James. Thanks for sharing your technique. Why not show the rest of the M4. I don't believe anyone else has shown it built???? Interesting color. I'll be watching
Thanks for watching Mike. I will continue on with the M4 on the channel. I have a few reviews lined up first though. Stay tuned…
Thanks brother
👊🤩💪
No, thank you OG!
This was very helpful:) Thank you!
My pleasure, thanks for watching and commenting 👍
Great topic. Exploring different types of tapes would be very helpful, especially for sharper curves like the bow or stern of a ship at the waterline or camo on a plane. Vinyl tape is supposed to easily form curves, but I struggle with even the thinnest vinyl tape to get a tight curve. I've seen it stretched a bit before applying, but I find it looses it's tack when stretched and still bunches up on the inside of the curve. AK makes a "masking tape for curves." Is this stuff any good? Any and all help would be appreciated.
I have some of the Tamiya tape for curves but haven’t used it in a while. I’ve found that the thinner the strip the better the curve. I just messed up the total coverage because I couldn’t see the tape on the body. Take care and thanks for watching 👍
actually you could use tamiya compound to remove the black overspray
Thanks for watching Flaretreks, I will be applying 2k clear now that the body is ready. I’m unsure that I would get a bad reaction with the clear and compound. Better safe than sorry.
thanks for the very useful video sir
Thanks for watching and supporting the channel Sean. I appreciate ya👍
Thanks for the video! Appreciate the tips!!
Thanks for watching 717sms, I appreciate your support.
you make me nervous cutting that tape right on the body. It takes experience, a sharp knife and a gentle touch, which you have. I never overlap tape I either but the prices up to eachother or use masking fluid.
I don’t like to cut on the body either. Some people do it often but it makes me nervous too. I should use masking fluid more often as I use a lot of tape!
Few questions.
1- why not just buy some 1mm or 2mm Tamiya tape instead of cutting the strips?
2- you said you could run into “trouble” doing the one big piece of tape around the window and trimming it. What trouble are you referring to?
3- why not use the pipette to draw the paint out of the bottle and also to put it in your airbrush instead of pouring?
Great video and great information. Thanks
Hi again HandsOver, someone once told me that the tape edge is not ideal so a cut edge is better. Plus I get more mileage out of the 18mm tape by cutting it into strips.
Trouble meaning that you are cutting the paint itself and risk lifting a layer of paint when you take the tape off.
I’m silly cheap with some stuff and Pipettes are one of them. I reuse them for thinner and throw them away when they quit working. I can’t imagine trying to clean paint out of them…
Thanks for watching and supporting the channel. I appreciate it.
Awesome masking technique! To answer the question, Yes I hate masking... Lol
The way I see it, any demonstration you do has no baring on the model/printed model.
If it pertains to the hobby, who care's what it is on. 🤔😎
Thanks for the video!
LLAP 🖖
Thanks Bruce for watching and yes, the build will go on. The positive feedback I received so far is overwhelming.
Nice 👍🏿
Thanks for watching bud👍
Any hints on masking the inside of rims. I get it done but I'm always willing to learn new methods. What a mess I made with my lotus 99t . I tried to put a matching stripe around the inside free hand and did well on the rears but I had to strip the fronts and start over
I’m not sure I understand, but I bought a circle template on Amazon for less than $5. I put the tape down on the cutting mat, trace the circle onto with pen and cut with a hobby knife. You can either use the middle or the outer to mask with.
@@ScaleModelExperiment I have that circle cutter thing that cost $50 and a regular aluminum circle templet like you mentioned. The technique you mention does work well, but I’m talking about a thin line on the inside wall of the hub itself. I tried a short pin striping brush with decanted Tamiya brilliant yellow ( incorrect but close enough) while spinning the wheel on a wooden dowel. I can’t get a consistent line at that angle. I guess I’ll try masking it or push the whole rim into a paint loaded ink pad and then wipe the edge.
@robertmassucci1 I understand now, just the edge of the rim. You’re on your own with that. I’ve never tried it. Please let me know if you figure out a good way to do it.
To finish the original story, after deciding to strip the two front rims, I accidentally picked up one of the two good rears and stripped that one by accident. What an idiot I am
@robertmassucci1 oh no! Sorry to hear that. Keep working, you’ll get it and then share your experience with the rest of us.
Ah, the joys of masking. Where did you get the file(s) to print, and what printer and resin did you use?
Hi Peter, thanks for watching. I use an Anycubic Mono X2 printer and water washable resin. Here is link to the files:
cults3d.com/en/3d-model/game/bmw-m4-2021
@@ScaleModelExperiment Hey James, thanks for the info. I have a Photon Mono, I might give it a try, the kit is about $32 AUD. Cheers.
Great video James, 3D printed wow cool. So the tape you cut into strips was "3M masking tape"? I use the same, the thinner you cut the "strips" of tape the tighter the curve you can take. Also I have never seen a black Q-tip....Great video as always, thanks for sharing.
Thanks for watching 👍 the tape I use is Tamiya 18mm tape and yes I like to cut the thin strips to bend it around turns. The black q-tips are something I picked up in Japan. Silly aren’t they?
Cool info man….any word on the release of a 2020 Vette from your friend on the inside? Thanks man
Nothing yet Tracy. I’ll keep asking though.
Thanks bro!! Im anticipating a”pre-order/coming soon” announcement from Revell or AMT hopefully soon
Start saving for a case of them!
whered u gfet the BMW M4? nice vid
I bought the files for the BMW from Cults3D and printed the body on my 3d printer. Thanks for watching 👍
👌👌
Right back at you Eric 👍👍 thanks for watching.
I use a Piece a glass to lay my tape on to cut when I'm cutting my thin strips for pinstriping or from my low rider designs. And use Automotive masking tape 3m I get mine from walmart and it's the same color as the frog tape that's Stuff sucks I hate frog tape wast of money
What is the reason for the glass? Any problems with adhesion or pulling paint off using the 3M? Inquiring minds need to know…
what kit is that?
That is a 3d printed BMW M4. I bought the files from cults 3d and printed them myself. Thanks for watching👍
🤓👍
Thanks again ModelCars!
Loved the video, but your Bimmer is giving me the stink eye! lol
Haha.JD, she is kinda odd. She’ll be nice after a polish I promise.
Nice 😅....show the rest
Thanks for watching Daniel, I appreciate the support. The show will go on!
@@ScaleModelExperiment your welcome 😁......all right 👍