Painting Fine Details and Choosing a Fine Detail brush.
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- Опубликовано: 8 сен 2024
- Often in youtube tutorials we tend to glaze over what to do with the little things. Well not this time, In this video I zoom in on a One Page Rules Jackal's Tracker to check out the finer points, of tiny things. To help out with this endeavour though I also explain what makes a good fine detail brush with a few suggestions of my favorites. As well as offer a few tips on how to stabilise the model so slight movements don't go messing things up.
If you like the model, check out the One Page Rules Patreon: www.patreon.com/onepagerules
Paintman Journeying is a Miniatures painting channel specializing in Tutorials, Fun challenges, Experimenting with paints and tools, as well as showcasing my painted models from Commissions. I paint every variety of 3D printed miniatures from companies like One Page Rules, Titan Forge, Artisans Guild and more. As well as digging into my stock of models from Mantic, Warhammer Age of Sigmar and 40K as well as Warmachine and Hordes from time to time.
After 18 years I am coming back to this hobby, not profesionally ofc! Never mastered it, but now it could be the time! 🎉
It's never a bad time to get started again. There's lots more resource for leaning too than there was 18 years ago.
I just bought my first miniature set and it has a lot of small details. This video really helped me relax about the prospect of painting them
Congratulations on the new set! The two easiest things to paint in my mind are the big things and the little things. It's those medium things that ya got to fear 😸
I just painted the same mini today! I started painting about 6 months ago so these videos are always nice for new techquies and reminders of the basics. Love the content!
I printed out a few Elites and a Vulture as well. They're all just such good models I want to paint more, but already have a backlog. x_x
Ahh man, you let the secret out of the bag about the 8408 Raphael. All through the pandemic I had a steady supply of them. 2 or 3 in my 2 sizes because people constantly go for the 8404 but the 8408 was in stock.
I love the sharpness of the 8408 for textures, tiny detail blending and the larger ones, like a 3 hold a lot of paint and still come to a fine nice point still.
I paint most of my gaming models 32mm with just a single 8408 number 1 but for the busts and larger scale I add in the other sizes when needed. Due to trial and error I have 000 through number 3 but will likely only rebuy the 1,2 and 3 in the future and still use the 8404 for larger wet blends.
One of the things that helped a few folks around me is to use their synthetic whenever possible, like for basing, block out large colors and anything thin like inks and washes and then switch to the 8408 for the technical stuff, like feathering and getting that last highlight blended.
Good video. Cheers.
I think you're still luckier than me, I've never been able to get an 8408 larger than my single 0 because the only place to get them for me was the UK or Australia, and shipping ends up being 2x the cost of the brush. But That's why I like the Green Stuff World brushes, because they have the same long bristle length of the 8408's, but a bit easier to get [though not as amazing as the 8408's still] I think if I ever got proposed to I'd only say yes if they proposed with a set of 8408's, that's how rare and expensive they are to me XD
@@PaintmanJourneying I buy them from DickBlick Art supplies online. Not sure if that is an option but the prices are reasonable and usually I can get free shipping as I usually buy all at once.
Thank you for these awesome tutorials. My painting still has a long way to go, but I've already improved from your tutorials
That's why it's a Journey, one little step at a time is how you improve! If you ever need help with anything or need a tutorial on something specific never be too shy to ask.
Raphael 8408 series is one of my favorite brush sets. I don't see many folks using them out here. The longer brush and belly are excellent, not to mention sharp tips! Thanks for the vid.
Became obsessed with the Jackal Faction thanks to this video ❤️
I think they're pretty obsession worthy too. Got one more release to go, so at least one more video including them :D
@@PaintmanJourneying awesome can't wait 😁
excellent video. thanks for posting. subbed!
That looks great, And all your information is very useful , I will be using it for detailing Hot Wheels cars
I just learned about a lot of these issues the hard way as I was painting a custom Mechagodzilla figure, and my paints kept drying up too quick, plus my smallest round brush couldn’t hold its tip well, yet the brush I had that was a tiny bit bigger but longer could hold it’s tip easier. Now I know how to fix both those issues, thanks
At least the hard way tends to be a good teacher, you tend to remember the lessons better 😹
good video, very professional
Nice video, thanks.
Honestly the hardest parts for me are -
1: keeping the paint from drying out on really small brushes, and
2: trying to figure out what paints I should use for Jackals' fur! Any suggestions there?
Good video
Do you have any advice on painting small freehand items such as shoulder patches or vehicle graffiti? Things that are too small and insignificant for a decal but would still be noticed on the figure.
Hahaha :D I was thinking about using some retarder medium and I already ordered some for this purpose! It's so funny to see that my theory was right. :D I can't wait to try this! Always had the paint dry on the brush when I was trying to do the eyes and such. Nothing more frustrating than when you hit the eye and the brush doesn't release paint! xD
I hear ya there! That's pretty much the main reason I do that because by the time the brush is lined up with the pupil and I surgically and slowly move the brush to the model...the dam tip already dried!
@@PaintmanJourneying Haha perfect! I'm so glad there's a solution to this problem :D
Hell... I would love to have your steady hand and patience. I'm currently painting my Saurian Starhost Army and my minis look like a big color clumb compared to yours. :(
I wish it were that easy to just share hands around. Though I think in this case it might just be the difference in miniatures. The Saurian SH to me are very much like the Space marines of OPR Sci-fi. Very easy to have colour schemes that are just a couple of colours, one for scales one for armor. There's not a lot of little bits around, while the jackals have straps and hoods and fur and gismos and backpacks, stuff you need to paint small.
So I think my Starhost would be a lump of a couple colours as well, just haven't decided on what those colours will be yet.
@@PaintmanJourneying I gave every unit type a different "scale color" and then added some bright colors for the armor. My goal was to make them really colorful (in contrast to my imperial army, which are basically Steel Legion with Jeans^^).
Good stuff. Have you ever tried a sharpened toothpick for ultra fine details?
The biggest problem I have, with brush or pick, is that the paint almost always beads up a millimeter or two *above* the very tip of the brush.
So I have no paint transferring from the very pointy tip, but a big glob of paint sitting just past the tip.
So I'm either getting nothing from the tip, or a big messy glob if I use the portion just past the tip.
...any ideas or advice?
I've not used a toothpick for that. My air is very dry here and wood sucking all the moisture out would just mean the paints not wet by the time I get it too the model.
What you can try doing with a fine brush is loading it with water, then dab just the tip on a tissue paper, then roll just the tip in the paint. The moisture from the back of the brush should keep it wet but without beading up since it has to travel through the bristles to get there.
The other option is to just use a micron pen with a super fine tip. Or I know there's even pencils from AK designed for miniatures. Something that works dry can't dry up or be super wet so should be just right each time!
@@PaintmanJourneying Thanks, I'll give the wet/dry brush tip a try.
I've used some pens/markers, but I find they stop working VERY quickly. Like yesterday I used some brand new silver sharpy markers, and they all stopped working a minute after starting. Even though they are all full of fluid. 🤷♂️
I had that problem with the .3mm micron. That's why I mentioned the pencils, which I actually have some of the metallic ones from AK so maybe I should do a video on them :D
@@PaintmanJourneying That would be cool. I don't know what "AK" is, or how these pencils work, though I have some nice Prismacolor color pencils for drawing that I've used in the past. They worked ok for some things.
Sorry AK interactive, they make miniatures supplies too. They happen to do a line of weathering pencils made for miniatues: ak-interactive.com/product/weathering-pencils-full-range-cloth-case/
The Raphael 8408 isn't all that rare. You can easily find them if you look around.
Can I ask what kind of glue you use to stick the mini to the wood base that you later swap with the final base?
I use a Gorilla Glue brand Gel super glue. So just a dab in the center of their feet so the edge doesn't get covered in glue at all and I can get a knife under them.
What is the color grid behind you?
It's basically a self made mixing guide of all the Scale 75 Artist colours from when I first got the kit. I'm kinda softly planning on doing another one with the current Jo Sonja paints I have but not too sure when I'll get around to that fully.
What’s the name of the tripod?
Oddly enough it's an energizer branded mini tripod. Though I got it a long time ago so don't know if it's even a thing anymore.
Any small tripod with a ball head would do the same thing though I imagine.
Hey there just started painting and my first minis was aos stormcast vindictor, and im struggling when painting details in the shield, rn im using free citadel brush from paint + tool set, so for beginners like me is it okay to buy raphael 8408 brush 0 size ? Or what size or brush do you recommended for me?
A 0 of most brush manufactures will end up having a similar tip if an 8404 or 8408 is hard to get. But I would go with something from a different company than GW. Green Stuff World silver brushes are cheaper and great natural hair brushes to get started with without needing to spend too much. But rosemary and co are also quite good though a bit more expensive. So since you're just getting started I would say the GSW silver are the best bet at the lower price point but still great quality and might actually be available more locally if a game shop near you have green stuff world products.
@@PaintmanJourneying and i cant find green stuff world brush only wet pallete available
@@dision24 www.greenstuffworld.com/en/brushes/1280-silver-series-kolinsky-brush-size-0.html# here's a link to their direct site to the silver 0. They also have a 2 1 and 00. Also a gold series which are a little higher quality but also a bit more expensive. Also since you only have the one brush the set of 4 might also be useful. If you use metalics on your stormcast though save your GW for doing those.
@@PaintmanJourneying aight thanks man, shipping to my country is too pricy so i only buy from my online local marketplace and i think i will stick to 8408, so for 8408 is this the right product if i want to buy the 0 size ? "Raphael Kolinsky 8408 round tip sable brush"
@@dision24 If you can get the 8408 more locally then definitely go with it, I have to get them shipped regardless so tend not to worry about that side of it that much.
And yes that would be correct. Round is just the style of brush because once you get into artist brushes you can start to get things like flat head, angled, filbert, fan brushes etc, round is just one of those. Kolinski Sable is the type of natural hair bristle, it comes from a Sable. Other bristle types are things like hogs hair, rabbit fur, or synthetic. We only tend to use sable and synthetic in miniatures painting. Synthetic is the better moral choice, but sable is expensive for a reason.
Re brush selection -
Been watching some of your videos and you seem to be the kind of guy that's into things beyond miniatures too, so maybe you're the guy to ask this. Why in the world do miniature painters like using natural fiber brushes with acrylic paints. It's the only painting discipline that I know of that does this.
I have even seen a couple of mini painters say that you should use synthetics when you're working with oils and enamels or other things where strong solvents are involved and that you definitely shouldn't expose your natural fiber brushes to these solvents.
For the life of me, I just can't figure it out. From an outside perspective it seems just genuinely truly bizarre. In basically any other painting discipline, it's basically the worst possible advice you could give someone.
I'm definitely open to the idea that there's some good reason for it that I'm just not seeing. My best guess ATM is that it's some kind of bizarre bubble where some influential guy gave people some bad advice and it stuck. As far as I can tell, the miniature painting world has been really badly segregated from the rest of the art world and there's just not that much crossover for a whole host of reasons, and that could definitely give rise to such a bubble.
I'd say it actually has to do with how we use acrylics for models verses how they'd be used for canvas.
On a canvas, it doesn't matter how thick the paint is. The artist is just trying to create a 2d image when looked on from the front.
Miniature painting though, thick paint is the bane of miniatures as it'll obscure the sculpted detail.
So what we have is a situation where we need a durable paint, acrylic. But treat it like a watercolor, thinned consistency with transparent layers.
So it's not that surprising that natural hair brushes normally used for and produced for watercolor actually handle better for miniature painting.
There's also how much paint the belly will hold. In synthetics they hold less than the kolinsky Sable. So when it comes to painting large surfaces, even though the surface is in some kinda twisted shape like a cloak, the more paint you can put down in a single stroke will reduce brush lines. Which canvas painters might want for texture. But we don't at all, so prefer a brush that holds more.
There's also the issue of bendy tips. Synthetic tips will generally curve a bit after much use while Sable stays strait. On a huge canvas, a bend means nothing. A belt buckle on a mini's belt that's only .5mm big in total, that synthetic hook can make things difficult.
So while there's some truth to the idea that mini painters are in a bubble. In this case most of us got our start with games workshop who sold natural hair brushes for mini painting, so there was some influence on what the right tool for the job is from the get go. In this case even though some of us escape the bubble we tend to find that our preference stays on Sable.
Though there are those that prefer synthetic for certain tasks. I know Toad painting uses nothing but synthetics. And Sam Lenz will use synthetics on the larger size of brushes and only use Sable for the small details, when that tip bend starts to become a problem.