About the Vallejo black primer, the Vallejo surface primers are a polyurethane enhanced primer. This means 2 things, they will be very durable, but they need to cure first. Prime the minis and give them time to cure and it won't come off. The bottle even mentions it needs 12 hours before applying masking, this is it's curing time.
I agree, I have even tried the vallejo as a brush on primer and if you cure it well... it is the best! Although any of the colored and white primers are air brush only imo... bubbles... I had a black vallejo primer that was stored in a cold area for a while, that one was never right after that... that is the only issue I have had with vallejo primer...
Also they need to be applied considerably. They are very very tricky to go through airbrush for novice. It will clog every 2 seconds if not handled the right way.
@@PerfectionHunter I use mix of 1 part flow improver to 3 parts thinner (by vallejo) and mix this with 1:1 ratio to primer. If it clogs, I increase ratio but also increase layers of primer
Vallejo Primer is the most durable primer, I think you must have thinned it if it chips off for you or maybe just a bad batch. The Grey and white Vallejo Primer Stick so well to my metal minis which have high chip potential. The main issue with it is it clogs the brush more easier the older the primer and brush gets. I've found Badger airbrush primer that pro painters I know use is thinner but much less durable and likely too chip. Also alot of airbrush primers application have to do with the age both the brush and primer, and how much you thin them(which should use barely or no thinner if new).
Putting Citadel plastic glue above Tamiya Extra Thin should be considered a war crime. Also for larger parts Tamiya do a different version with a white cap.
Non so che problemi hai incontrato con il primer vallejo ma lo trovo il miglior primer per aerografo. Va lasciato curare per un giorno e diventa resistente quasi quanto il chaos black. Invece ho trovato il "primer" molotov uno schifo😂 mi si è riattivato due giorni dopo mentre applicavo un protettivo. Un disastro.
I always had same issues with superglue, hated it, cap always stuck on, clogged etc. then someone told me not to screw cap back on, just place the cap back on the bottle gently. Voila. Never had an issue since. No clogging, easy flow etc.
@@ataraxiapainting it also depends on what colours you were using. One of the selling points is they don't artificially boost the opacity. Most hobby paints do this by adding titanium white. This makes mixing more difficult as things tend to grey. So, if you were basecoating yellow you may have noticed this lack of opacity. My trick for yellow is to paint the first few coats with a mix of yellow and white. This'll increase opacity so it takes less coats, then my last few coats are the pure yellow colour I want to use.
Airbrush primers are not going to chip if you use good ones. Gunze Mr. Hobby Finishing Surfacer 1500 is BY FAR the best primer there is anywhere. Source : trust me. Not acryllic but alcohol based. For the absolute chefs kiss finish use Mr Hobby Leveling Thinner 400. If you are still caveman priming with rattle cans you have to give this combo a try.
I'm glad it's not just me. After seeing a lot of recommendations for Winsor&Newton I had finally caved and picked up one of the Series 7 round this week and it has been by far the most disappointing brush I've tried to use.
i use Rosemary&Co sable series 8 instead of Artis Opus cheaper and just as good size 1 Rose&Co has a bigger body to hold more paint than Artis thats why i like them
I got 2 AK texture pastes and both are basically soup. You have about a 2 minute work time where you can put some texture into it with a brush. But I have to wait an hour for that 2 minute work period. Not fond.
I mix my own. I mix DAP lightweight drywall spackle, Liquitex matte fluid medium, plus craft paint for color and flocking and/or sand for texture. You can vary the mixture of spackle to medium to get whatever consistency you like, and it's meant for walls so it's very durable.
With the texture rollers there is a bit of a process to get them nice. I use primo sculpey and put it through a polymer clay press, this makes it equal thickness. then I cut out circles with round clay cutters, press those onto bases gently and apply some corn starch to the top ,roll the texture roller over it, then I use a tissue blade (long razor) to trim off the excess before baking them. Be careful with the tissue blade lol. I usually just print bases these days its less work.
If the AK texture pastes are not great, I suggest Vallejo’s texture paint. After spending money on citadel’s tiny pots that wouldn’t last long, I found AV’s texture paint to be great and you get a giant container for like, $12. Don’t like the color? Prime over it and paint it whatever you want. Also, I had been a Windsor Newton series 7 #2 fan for the last 15 years or so. And you’re right, the quality has really taken a shit the last couple years. I go for Monument Hobbies sable brushes now. For the price, you can’t get better sable brushes.
I used to like Vallejo primer, but they are different somehow, and they are a clumpy mess that clogs the airbrush. I use molotow One4All black because I've seen Marco Frasoni paint with it, and I gave it a try, and now it is my go-to because it sprays really well. I use the Montana Marker White refil for a shock white primer, and it never clogged or no tip dry on my airbrush after priming 10 models using my procon boy lwa with a .5mm needle.
Great vid! I didn't realize how useful a palette with wells would be, until you showed how you put a damp cloth over it and can store it in the fridge. That's really cool.
I've had similar experiences as you with W&N brushes. Started out using them, but was disappointed in their quality (for their price tag). Switched to Raphael 8404, and haven't looked back.
I bought 3 deluxe boxes of Artis Opus. S, M, and D. And they were very bad. I can tell that D is pretty much OK to bad quality, hairs are missing every session of drybrushing. Cheap alternatives goes with the same quality but with a fraction of a price (miniwarpaint for example). S and M boxes had roaming hair in every brush. Also some S brushes was struggling to keep sharp tip with a paint loaded to the half of a brush (not to ferrule). Well, the wooden boxes with navigator and Ninjon arts are pretty neat, but thats all about that brushes. They cannot compare in any way to raphael 8404 or roubloff kolinsky. My bet that I hit unlucky batch, but still was very disappointed.
Re: Paint handles... got a chinese knock off from amazon last year, ergonomic, copy of the expensive one you showed with a snap on metal top brace, only $10 cdn. Love it, use it constantly.. but i have rather large hands...
I bought a citadel handle years ago and never use it. I've got a bunch of 80/90s Citadel pots filled with sand for weight and just blutac stuff on top. Perfect.
After not using it for two years, I finally used my W&N series 7 brush a couple months ago. Much like you, I can't express how disappointing it was. Went back to using my old reliable brush after a couple weeks.
I love Windsor & Newton (bought about 7 months ago), but I only use acrylics. Thanks for your thoughts and content. I love getting different opinions and then deciding for myself.
lots of great info, thanks. one suggestion i have, is for the sprue cutters. i like to use cuticle nippers. less than half the price of the citadel cutters and they work just as good.
You should try black superglue. They are thicker than usual but includes rubber to make it a little bit more flexible. Also tamiya airbrush cleaner is basically plastic cement.
I like her. But she is exhausted. The cigarettes. The caffeine. The alcohol. The misanthropy. She looks and acts *exhausted*. I like her. I value her individuality. But, I think she could be feeling less exhausted, less pressed to the edges of herself. She looks exhausted. I think she needs better drugs, than caffeine, alcohol, and nicotine.
That Vallejo brush on black primer is fantastic. I'm sorry you had a negative experience. I use it all the time
About the Vallejo black primer, the Vallejo surface primers are a polyurethane enhanced primer. This means 2 things, they will be very durable, but they need to cure first. Prime the minis and give them time to cure and it won't come off. The bottle even mentions it needs 12 hours before applying masking, this is it's curing time.
I agree, I have even tried the vallejo as a brush on primer and if you cure it well... it is the best! Although any of the colored and white primers are air brush only imo... bubbles... I had a black vallejo primer that was stored in a cold area for a while, that one was never right after that... that is the only issue I have had with vallejo primer...
Also they need to be applied considerably. They are very very tricky to go through airbrush for novice. It will clog every 2 seconds if not handled the right way.
@@necpwnzSo with what do you dilute it, and how much?
Thinner @@PerfectionHunter
@@PerfectionHunter I use mix of 1 part flow improver to 3 parts thinner (by vallejo) and mix this with 1:1 ratio to primer. If it clogs, I increase ratio but also increase layers of primer
Vallejo Primer is the most durable primer, I think you must have thinned it if it chips off for you or maybe just a bad batch. The Grey and white Vallejo Primer Stick so well to my metal minis which have high chip potential. The main issue with it is it clogs the brush more easier the older the primer and brush gets. I've found Badger airbrush primer that pro painters I know use is thinner but much less durable and likely too chip. Also alot of airbrush primers application have to do with the age both the brush and primer, and how much you thin them(which should use barely or no thinner if new).
Even 48h no issues
Putting Citadel plastic glue above Tamiya Extra Thin should be considered a war crime.
Also for larger parts Tamiya do a different version with a white cap.
Non so che problemi hai incontrato con il primer vallejo ma lo trovo il miglior primer per aerografo. Va lasciato curare per un giorno e diventa resistente quasi quanto il chaos black. Invece ho trovato il "primer" molotov uno schifo😂 mi si è riattivato due giorni dopo mentre applicavo un protettivo. Un disastro.
The liquitex matte medium from the art supplies store works a treat! I'd put it on the S-tier.
Because you put citadel spray in A tier I bet you never used Colour Forge? CF are top choice.
And I’m guessing cheaper? 👀 tell me more lol
@@ataraxiapaintingcheaper and bigger can . Works with contrast better than GW does 😂
I always had same issues with superglue, hated it, cap always stuck on, clogged etc. then someone told me not to screw cap back on, just place the cap back on the bottle gently. Voila. Never had an issue since. No clogging, easy flow etc.
Interesting to note that all the Artis Opus brushes are made for them by English company Rosemary and Co. They are top quality.
I respectfully disagree about Kimera. I use their core 13 colours for *all* my painting and don't find issues with basecoating.
It’s fair to say I might have the bad first batch of kimera basic set
@@ataraxiapainting it also depends on what colours you were using. One of the selling points is they don't artificially boost the opacity. Most hobby paints do this by adding titanium white. This makes mixing more difficult as things tend to grey.
So, if you were basecoating yellow you may have noticed this lack of opacity.
My trick for yellow is to paint the first few coats with a mix of yellow and white. This'll increase opacity so it takes less coats, then my last few coats are the pure yellow colour I want to use.
Great video totally S-tier video
Ahah glad you enjoyed it!!
Airbrush primers are not going to chip if you use good ones.
Gunze Mr. Hobby Finishing Surfacer 1500 is BY FAR the best primer there is anywhere. Source : trust me.
Not acryllic but alcohol based. For the absolute chefs kiss finish use Mr Hobby Leveling Thinner 400.
If you are still caveman priming with rattle cans you have to give this combo a try.
I'm glad it's not just me. After seeing a lot of recommendations for Winsor&Newton I had finally caved and picked up one of the Series 7 round this week and it has been by far the most disappointing brush I've tried to use.
i use Rosemary&Co sable series 8 instead of Artis Opus cheaper and just as good size 1 Rose&Co has a bigger body to hold more paint than Artis thats why i like them
I got 2 AK texture pastes and both are basically soup. You have about a 2 minute work time where you can put some texture into it with a brush. But I have to wait an hour for that 2 minute work period. Not fond.
I mix my own. I mix DAP lightweight drywall spackle, Liquitex matte fluid medium, plus craft paint for color and flocking and/or sand for texture. You can vary the mixture of spackle to medium to get whatever consistency you like, and it's meant for walls so it's very durable.
With the texture rollers there is a bit of a process to get them nice. I use primo sculpey and put it through a polymer clay press, this makes it equal thickness. then I cut out circles with round clay cutters, press those onto bases gently and apply some corn starch to the top ,roll the texture roller over it, then I use a tissue blade (long razor) to trim off the excess before baking them. Be careful with the tissue blade lol. I usually just print bases these days its less work.
Vallejo Black Primer works great for me.
Really? Now I am shocked ahah
I much prefer plastic glue with a brush compared to the squeeze out bottle.
Agreed it's much more accurate and easy to get the right amount!
If the AK texture pastes are not great, I suggest Vallejo’s texture paint. After spending money on citadel’s tiny pots that wouldn’t last long, I found AV’s texture paint to be great and you get a giant container for like, $12. Don’t like the color? Prime over it and paint it whatever you want.
Also, I had been a Windsor Newton series 7 #2 fan for the last 15 years or so. And you’re right, the quality has really taken a shit the last couple years. I go for Monument Hobbies sable brushes now. For the price, you can’t get better sable brushes.
I used to like Vallejo primer, but they are different somehow, and they are a clumpy mess that clogs the airbrush. I use molotow One4All black because I've seen Marco Frasoni paint with it, and I gave it a try, and now it is my go-to because it sprays really well. I use the Montana Marker White refil for a shock white primer, and it never clogged or no tip dry on my airbrush after priming 10 models using my procon boy lwa with a .5mm needle.
Is there no such thing as a good airbrush primer? I've never seen one that was complimented without being called trash by someone else.
Dam what resin r u using that its that brittle
Great vid! I didn't realize how useful a palette with wells would be, until you showed how you put a damp cloth over it and can store it in the fridge. That's really cool.
What about Baba Booey?
I've had similar experiences as you with W&N brushes. Started out using them, but was disappointed in their quality (for their price tag). Switched to Raphael 8404, and haven't looked back.
I bought 3 deluxe boxes of Artis Opus. S, M, and D. And they were very bad.
I can tell that D is pretty much OK to bad quality, hairs are missing every session of drybrushing. Cheap alternatives goes with the same quality but with a fraction of a price (miniwarpaint for example).
S and M boxes had roaming hair in every brush. Also some S brushes was struggling to keep sharp tip with a paint loaded to the half of a brush (not to ferrule).
Well, the wooden boxes with navigator and Ninjon arts are pretty neat, but thats all about that brushes. They cannot compare in any way to raphael 8404 or roubloff kolinsky.
My bet that I hit unlucky batch, but still was very disappointed.
Re: Paint handles... got a chinese knock off from amazon last year, ergonomic, copy of the expensive one you showed with a snap on metal top brace, only $10 cdn. Love it, use it constantly.. but i have rather large hands...
I bought a citadel handle years ago and never use it. I've got a bunch of 80/90s Citadel pots filled with sand for weight and just blutac stuff on top. Perfect.
Tamiya Extra Thin Cement is S tier and you can't change my mind. Seeing it below Citadel's garbage glue blows my mind lol.
After not using it for two years, I finally used my W&N series 7 brush a couple months ago. Much like you, I can't express how disappointing it was. Went back to using my old reliable brush after a couple weeks.
love the content! keep it up!
I love Windsor & Newton (bought about 7 months ago), but I only use acrylics. Thanks for your thoughts and content. I love getting different opinions and then deciding for myself.
I got the GW mold line remover but its a diffrent type. And its great! Exacto knives I never got the handle of.
lots of great info, thanks. one suggestion i have, is for the sprue cutters. i like to use cuticle nippers. less than half the price of the citadel cutters and they work just as good.
Also try dspiae etching sheets with adhesive sandpaper you get super thin sanding sticka that can fit in tight areas.
That was a helpful insight into the diverse paints, primers, brushes, palettes, etc., out there.
Thanks for sharing! :)
You should try black superglue. They are thicker than usual but includes rubber to make it a little bit more flexible.
Also tamiya airbrush cleaner is basically plastic cement.
What?? Ab cleaner is plastic cement?? 🤯
Spray priming with the Rollie on is a power move
love your videos!
22:47 😍
I like her.
But she is exhausted. The cigarettes. The caffeine. The alcohol. The misanthropy. She looks and acts *exhausted*.
I like her. I value her individuality. But, I think she could be feeling less exhausted, less pressed to the edges of herself.
She looks exhausted. I think she needs better drugs, than caffeine, alcohol, and nicotine.