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As someone who used for a long time brush on primer from AP and Vallejo, I think you just need to be careful. One coat without dilution so the primer doesnt lose its properties, well spread and thin.

Actually, olive green is even simpler, and contraintuitively, is not a mix of blue and yellow; it's a shade of yellow, a mixture of it and black. A good example of this is the zinc chromate green used as a protective coating in US aircraft during WWII - zinc chromate primer was applied as a yellow first coat, and the same primer with lamp black added (making it one of a variety of olive-green shades depending on how much lamp black was added) was applied as a second coat, the color difference telling workers what areas had already received their second coat. Zinc chromate green eventually became the standard interior green for aircraft, and remained so through the war.

just realized i hadnt seen you post in awhile. hope you doing well

Wow thank you I’m new to painting miniatures, my one model is like 6 inches in Length, I am debating if I should paint with brush or spray paint? I do have an airbrush it’s actually my husband’s but I have never used one before and don’t know what to do and rather practice on something I don’t care about first then just prime a model I care about. So the other pieces a brush seems more reasonable and less risk because they are extremely small pieces that like a few brush strokes will cover it. The main thing is the biggest piece, I am really torn on the best way to go about it. I may begin practicing on the airbrush to see if I will do a good enough job just to prime with it, then practice more with on fine details later, cause I need this model done before my daughters bday. Which I have time, if I start now. So let me know on a 6 inch model that doesn’t have really any knooks or crannies other than one small part where there is a gate on a wall where possibly paint could pool using a spray can if I wasn’t careful. A brush could work. Your tip with thinning the primer is genius! Cause on my tiny pieces I just need a slight coat to allow my paint to adhere to.

Great video One note - if you use a rattlecan clear spray - make 100% sure your model is dry - really dry - and it is not humid out when doing so - as it can affect how the clear dries.

What are the different papers you used at 6:20? The paper coming with mine does the same thing as the one in the middle and I find super hard to work with 😢

I tend to use Golden's high flow acrylics for thinning paints with a color when I'm not just letting my wet pallet do it's job, I do have a homemade thinner from Barbatos Rex that works wonders, but sometimes it's a little too much for some paints and it's best for use with the airbrush. I have NEVER had an ink jam an airbrush and I use a budget, $40 airbrush with a very mid-tier compressor. I think you need to play with your PSI and what you're using as thinner in the airbrush or how much you're using of it if you're getting jams frequently. I find that like two drops of thinner then the ink and a nice backwash blending is all you need to make it flow well.

Dang, I just used this for the first time and sadly my thinned paint still dried out quickly on the paper with water still in the palette, same as Redgrass and same as all the other palettes I've tried. Obviously, some kind of me problem. I do love the refill reservoir though, can't believe no other palette has that!

Huh that's so interesting, everyone loves ink whites for aibrush. Surprising to hear that! Interesting.

What medium did you use for the airbrushing before putting in the inks? Why do did you put it, to make it less opaque?

How oftern do you have to replace the wated conductive paper, the one that goes first on the sponge? I see the basic set comes with 3 of those and 10 color mixing papers. I suppose I'd need to get an additional set of the color mixing paper, but do I also need one for water conductive?

Mix your own thinner with flow improver and drying retarder: In one litre or quart of distilled water, mix ~ 7 drops (to taste) each of rinse aid (used with dishwashers) and vegetable glycerin/glycerol (it's used for making soap, on "smoke" machines, and for other uses, you can buy it at any chemist's in litre/quart bottles, or you can get a much smaller bottles).

Thanks for this wonderful video. It´s very relaxing to listen to you.

Thanks, appreciated this.

Great video! I know this is a little random but do you remember where you picked up that metal file from?

I'm more confused now than I was before you basically painted the model then did the dip. Makes no sense to me nothing about this is faster than just painting

Great video, I gotta say though when it comes to professionally produced polystyrene mini's, I am don't prime anymore. Metal and resin though, absolutely.

Cool bid

Thank you for the video. Fun and well-explained.

So I just primed my new CSM army and realized after the fact that there’s some minis that didn’t get coated entirely. I didn’t do a very good job of hitting all the angles from underneath. Since I used army painter Matt black and I’m doing Black Legion can I just hit all the areas I missed with something like citadel Abaddon Black? I’m not concerned with the blacks being a match, only trying to avoid going out to buy another rattle can and have to spray again cause it’s so hard to get the right temp and humidity where I’m at.

How does this not have more views and likes? Excellent vid, and the wet blending technique where you put down medium before the wash is very clever - I will need to try this on some of my genestealer cult hybrids.

I have been looking for pp who are using artist paints for models or mini, ty for your video. Would you recommend heavy or soft for base coat ( not spray), im also using oil for parts.

I use inks and Apple Barrel for white for almost everything.

"Brush on Primer hasn't been shown in any detail." God, don't I know it. I love using a brush but it feels like priming is never discussed, and people just scoff at it. Basically all Brush discussion on gunpla and model kits have been tossed aside, and only a few use it on minatures.

I absolutely love how you are mixing the paint on video. As someone learning to do this and color theory this is worth more than gold!

You da MAN!

You know, why I wanna use a prime with a brush? To paint the gaps and fissures of my metal dice, not the whole thing, sooo let´s give it a try ^^

Hate to bug ya again, but if you had to pick out some premade colors - Vallejo, Army Painter, Citadel, etc - to recreate the fur with, what would you go for? I'm having a really hard time mixing up/picking out good colors!

Honestly the hardest parts for me are - 1: keeping the paint from drying out on really small brushes, and 2: trying to figure out what paints I should use for Jackals' fur! Any suggestions there?

I am so glad to see another painter using acrylic gouache. I have been using them for two years now. Love what they do. And pretty versatile especially when used with mediums.

What resin did you use?M They came out nice and sharp, it seems!

The paint will spill out if it is not laid flat?

I just thin it with water and do several thin coats. Works every time.

Just found your videos and have been really enjoying them! Love all the OPR features as well. Prepainting bases before gluing the models on always made me nervous. Do you find that the superglue binds the mini to the base decently, even with paint on the resin? It might be better than my current process of scratching some hashmarks into the two surfaces I am gluing together and hoping for the best. Resin tends not to glue well. Also, I tend to overuse glue. I am scared that the dried glue might mess up my painting.

What brand of Paints do you use?

Thanks for this video. Am sold to the idea of having a journal!

Make the ‘finger hole’ larger so it’ll fit a pot of Nuln Oil, preventing it from tipping over 👌

brilliant and concise explanations on how to use inks - this noob learned a ton and is going to get some inks!

I love contrast paint and I'm happy that these paint finally exist after 30 or what years. However watching your video I realized two thing 1: your ink method looks much more smooth and steady and 2: contrast are a solution to a very specific GameWorkshop problem, wanting to sell minis and heaving massive armies you need to paint before you can enjoy your games. In any other branch of painting miniatures something like "slap chop" + contrast wouldn't be such a help as with massive scale miniature wagrames like with 40K

After struggling for ages, a hygrometer 3 different palettes, I followed your advice and the dspiae palette sorted it. I note all their products are next level. The single sided nippers are noteworthy too as are the glass files. Best products on the market by some margin.

Great thanks

Curious, why would an ink stain more? And compared to what?

Will two thin coats of brush on primer work?

Gotta recommend medium instead of water to thin paints, gives a more uniform color rather than diluting the pigments

Where is this available to buy. Can’t find it anywhere

This really enhanced the painting experience for me. It was awesome to hear how you see your minis while painting them!

Just found this video (looking for the vid on coming up with a paint scheme to share with a friend - your reco to look at pro sports teams was genius Where did you get the pullover?

This is such a cool video. I have the RGG Wet Palette v2, and while it is really good, my studio tends to need the AC on since it can get pretty hot, which leads to my wet palette drying out pretty quickly. I'll see if I can find this one and try it out!

There's a few people at the local store using that palette, I'm still dipping my brush in the pot lol

Good to see you back from hiatus ❤