Other controllers have either a EBS or EABS solder pad or if it doesn't say either of those it will say F4. You solder either of those to ground and when you activate your brake lever switch, regen comes on. I charge my battery with a voltage regulator so I can set the charge voltage, I undercharge my battery slightly by about a volt and a half so I don't trip my BMS overvolt protection circuit, otherwise I have to switch the battery off then again to power it back on. Another function I would defo recommend that most controller have is cruise control. You just wire the appropriate pad to ground via an inline switch and when at throttling you press the switch once and it keeps that level of throttle on until you either activate the throttle again or the switch again. Very good for long journeys as it takes away that strain you get from holding the throttle open all the time. Also riding no handed at 30 mph is fun!!! Be careful though!!
@@jeandard6416 Either through experience or by searching on the net etc. Defo worth wiring some of these functions in. One more thing to mention is, if you do a shunt mod on your china controller and also have done the regen you will notice not only an increase in power but also an increase in regen force. Just FYI.
@@landongill8827 not sure use a voltmeter to measure its output and see what it puts out while running. Also I may try shorting it to ground on one of my many controllers to see what it does. To be honest I only ever did the functions I wanted. Ds and X are regen on my current PCB. Others it's different.
See, now this is the right way to do it, so many implementations I've seen slow it down even while it's trying to coast, which is counterproductive. Probably increases brake life, too. All bike should be made this way. People have been arguing with me about why it can't be done and how inefficient it would be, this guy just blew them out of the water. You should market a book on how to do this.. you can make a fortune bro! Plus you'd 7:11 be doing a great service for the riders
i have been doing some research on the controller A2 goes to 5v when ebrake engaged K1 speed switch (green) X + DS Regen braking ZL PAS sensor XS throttle restrictor SL Ebrake active low SH Ebrake active high
Hello I haev question about that throttle restrictor. restriction is activated when that XS pin is connected somewhere, or it is actiwated when not connected? I have controller which came with speed and power limit (at least, seller wrote it in description) and in order to deactivate it, i should connect some blue wire which is embedded in controller..but there is no such wire...but I see XS connection on board and it is unoccupied .. what does it mean?
I only have free pins GK, DK, AD, HE, FD, SH, XS and YY/Tx1 in my unit, please don't you know which is for what? XS is throttle restriction, and SH is hight braking, I couldn't find the rest anywhere. Thank you very much for your opinion.
hey just wanna ask is every hub motor can do this regen breake？ after modified the controller like X + D or EABS or EBS to GND？ after that just need to press on the break than the break regen will automatic work？？
Thx! that worked for me, here in brazil we dont have much information about eletrical bikes, this video help me with that! i dont know if this happen with all motor controllers but mine controller only work the regenerative braking in medium speeds like a 10 mp/h , less than not work!
Hi just wondering I have 1000Watt direct drive just wondering does my display have to have that regenerative braking on it or as what you are saying about soldering to controller or does it make a difference
Nice video and hack! I have a 1500W controller of the same manufacturer. No X, DS, EABS or EBS, but there is an ABS with a GND right across the alley between the rowed solder pads, and think I'm gonna chance it with that.
I had ABS solder pad on mine. It worked!! Thannk you so much. But im not sure this fills up the battery back, also im not sure if there is any settings on my sw900 lcd panel. If someone notice me about that will be happy. My hub fits nicely on the chsasis, but a torque arm may still be needed, will see.
What regen voltage is generated ?. I measured a max of 23volts on my 36v system . You need 42v to charge a 36v battery ( you cannot put in a lower voltage than the battery has at the time) obviously if you apply the brakes the battery level will be higher than if it is under load. You would need a boost converter to achieve a high enough voltage to charge the battery ...... I think regen on bikes is a placebo.
How did u measure the voltage? I have regen on a hoverboard and it boosts the voltage 10 or more volts then the battery voltage (depending on the speed it cant generate enough voltage to keep the system on) Iven blown the fets when the bms disconnected the battery it reached 100 plus volts!
@@felipehcraftgamer4193 on a bike ,I just turned the key switch to off , freewheeling powers my digi volt meter that I have ..so under no load (of the battery) i got 23v ,if you then connect a load that voltage will drop and you will feel the drag from the back emi , but as has been said regen only helps if you have spare inertia mass like on a heavy vehicle. my battery takes 8 hours at 42v at 2 amps to fully charge to 42v ,any voltage less than its current voltage cannot enter the battery. So if you could generate 42v at 2A from your breaking ....you only have to break for 8 hours to fully charge the battery .....thats a very long hill.. then how do you get back up that hill ......its basic physics
Hi can I get some help ? I livin UK and have a 1000w rear engine ebike custom build. My issue struggle to stopp on downhills my pads and discs worning out so quick. Where can I buy these regen ebike breaks? Cause I couldnt found them anywhere here in England.
Hi, at 3:50 you mentioned that regen is stopped when batter is charged up. How do you ensure this, and does not blow up the battery? Do you have to do any adjustment apart from soldering the 2 connection? Does this significantly slow down your bike when you hit the brakes? Thanks :)
lol all you have to do is go first and THEN stop, not the other way around! If you don't get the joke, continue reading... Look, on a level road, it is impossible to brake when the battery is full unless you are pedaling. A little overloading will probably not blow up the battery but shorten its life. Solder to a switch instead. Or, if your ride starts at the top of a hill do not fully charge, let regen charge it on the way down. On the video, you can see that regen produces 4 amps. My battery can only be charged at 2 amps, so I would need two batteries. Or, install a switch on the brake level cables so the controller has no clue when you are braking. Install a voltmeter so you can see it for yourself. get a capacitor/diode combination to take the regen load. etc. Just look at the video and know basic physics: Because of efficiency and drag forces, the bike needs more energy to gain speed than what it would need to slow it down, so it is impossible to overcharge if you are on a flat level road or you have solar panels, pedaling, a sail, being towed, etc. You just need to learn the basics of physics. In this universe, energy in = energy out ALWAYS unless you are God or you have some Godlike power. Charging a battery in a freezer and then moving it to a sauna will also cause the voltage to rise.
@@DonHavjuan does that really disconnect the regen though? Probably if controller is off yes, but does the control have a voltage regulation circuit? Or is this solder trick going to bypass something directly to ground in which case it might still push charge into the battery
I thought all that connection did was to have the motor slow you down. Those motors barely put out 12 volts when you are rolling. How does that charge a 52 volt battery? I had to use a voltage booster to do it.
@@sideproject4028 i am trying to find if the same controller is used in more expensive kits to see if any more features can be enabled. where did you find out about this mod?
i was just thinking, the solder jumper be replaced by a switch to make regen easy to switch on and off, then another thought occurs to me, can it be switched on the fly ? or coiuld the switch be replaced with a potentiometer? or some kind of pwm control to give variable regen.
That's great. I have a high power kit 52v 40 amps. Can go pretty fast. My city has no bike lanes so it's safer to go faster, when riding alongside the cars. I've been using the regen brake for the main purpose of assisting the brakes when braking from high speed. It's great. I don't even care about the battery regen, just the added brake power is awesome. I wonder why it's not more popular, some people don't even know their controllers are capable of regen braking. It's a great safety feature. I've been wondering if there is a way to use the brake levers sensor to make a brake tail light for the bike. Any ideas? Thanks.
@@shadoworkz123 Be aware. Some controllers have stronger regen brakes than others. The problem is most Chinese sellers don't mention the High brake power , so you have to kind count on luck. I guess the more powerful the controller the stronger the regen brake, but I'm not sure. I have ridden other bikes with much less powerful regen braking than mine. You might also be able to modify how strong you want the regen brake to be, but then again, it always depends on the controller. Good luck.
awesome video. my friend says that ahub motor can' t have regen if it has a free casette on the rear wheel? Is this true? I thought as long as the motor stator had the torque arms to keep it still then regen would work via the controlelr's electronics right?
I have made an ebike 1000W zelus, activated regen braking on the controller cause I live in a hilly area, battery Samsung - 15Q cells used 13s20p. It's 30Ah 1.638kWh 360A max continuous discharge current. I use it for uber eats, my problem is that after I have discovered that the max speed is set by the smart "those 2 white wires coming out of the controller". I had to upgrade the battery fuse from 30 to 40A, all well until today. The trouble is that I need a new fuse.... Any suggestion?
man,now think twice. use a 1000W front and a 100W Rear Motor,activaiting on boht the Break and NOW install a 750/1000W Bafang Mid Motor. Use the Midmotor and push the same time a Brekas and you drive with the Mid Motor, near the both Hub Motor produce power.if you use less Power for the Mid then both Motor produce,will your battery never be discharged. it means you have 3 Motors,can use all 3,but most time can 2 of them produce power and charge the hole time. you can programm the Hub to break after a Speedlimit,for exempel 20Mph,but your mid motor can drive 40 Mph,so your Hubs start with 20Mph to charge . for the Mid drive a Thump throttel and for the Hubs a Twist throttel som can be deativated. so it will be a mid drive in the first pleace and a Rocker in the secound because of 3 Motor with 3000 Watt. if you balance breaking of the hubs and the max speed of the mid,can the hubs not be to hot and the mid motor must not work so hard if you use gears also for more thorgue,not speed. if you can drive 30 Mph with the Mid Motor and the Buhs break with 5Mph will the mid motor not rich the 1000Watt he can use. or you drive fast,but later you drive slow and break hard to charge faster. a endless Bike ;-) or use a Car Alternator ;-)
Can someone help me please? i've a kt controller that has regen as far as i know but when i brake it says that the brakes are activated but it will not do regen... so you may say it does not have regen but if i ride for a longer distance the regen works after a lot of km, in the beginning it does it vert weak and then it keeps braking harder but by the moment it does that the battery is almost empty so yeah i wanted to work al the time and with my old kt controller 25amps max it worked all the time and now with my 40amp controller it doenst work. Can someone help me out?
Other controllers have either a EBS or EABS solder pad or if it doesn't say either of those it will say F4. You solder either of those to ground and when you activate your brake lever switch, regen comes on. I charge my battery with a voltage regulator so I can set the charge voltage, I undercharge my battery slightly by about a volt and a half so I don't trip my BMS overvolt protection circuit, otherwise I have to switch the battery off then again to power it back on. Another function I would defo recommend that most controller have is cruise control. You just wire the appropriate pad to ground via an inline switch and when at throttling you press the switch once and it keeps that level of throttle on until you either activate the throttle again or the switch again. Very good for long journeys as it takes away that strain you get from holding the throttle open all the time. Also riding no handed at 30 mph is fun!!! Be careful though!!
thanks for the info ! where did you find all of this ?
@@jeandard6416 Either through experience or by searching on the net etc. Defo worth wiring some of these functions in. One more thing to mention is, if you do a shunt mod on your china controller and also have done the regen you will notice not only an increase in power but also an increase in regen force. Just FYI.
@@jcreedy20 do you know what f5 is? Really curious
@@landongill8827 not sure use a voltmeter to measure its output and see what it puts out while running. Also I may try shorting it to ground on one of my many controllers to see what it does. To be honest I only ever did the functions I wanted. Ds and X are regen on my current PCB. Others it's different.
What is appropriate pad to wire for cruise? I’d like to mod cruise for my bike. Thanks
See, now this is the right way to do it, so many implementations I've seen slow it down even while it's trying to coast, which is counterproductive. Probably increases brake life, too. All bike should be made this way. People have been arguing with me about why it can't be done and how inefficient it would be, this guy just blew them out of the water. You should market a book on how to do this.. you can make a fortune bro! Plus you'd 7:11 be doing a great service for the riders
i have been doing some research on the controller
A2 goes to 5v when ebrake engaged
K1 speed switch (green)
X + DS Regen braking
ZL PAS sensor
XS throttle restrictor
SL Ebrake active low
SH Ebrake active high
Hello I haev question about that throttle restrictor. restriction is activated when that XS pin is connected somewhere, or it is actiwated when not connected? I have controller which came with speed and power limit (at least, seller wrote it in description) and in order to deactivate it, i should connect some blue wire which is embedded in controller..but there is no such wire...but I see XS connection on board and it is unoccupied .. what does it mean?
@@EduardRitok normally the speed limiter is the K1 pad wired via a white or green cable to ground
Wow, that worked for me too!😍
Thank u
I only have free pins GK, DK, AD, HE, FD, SH, XS and YY/Tx1 in my unit, please don't you know which is for what? XS is throttle restriction, and SH is hight braking, I couldn't find the rest anywhere. Thank you very much for your opinion.
YOU,RE A SAVIOR, IT WORKED ON MY SPRINTER S1010 CONTROLLER
Nice video, thanks! On some other controllers there is no X + DS, instead you connect EABS or EBS to GND.
your comment was very helpful after 5 years i started my regen journey now
hey just wanna ask is every hub motor can do this regen breake？ after modified the controller like X + D or EABS or EBS to GND？ after that just need to press on the break than the break regen will automatic work？？
Awsome life hack. Is working for me too. Thanks a lot!
Very cool! That should be the default setting on every e-bike with a hub motor. You wouldn't even need a rear brake!
Thx! that worked for me, here in brazil we dont have much information about eletrical bikes, this video help me with that! i dont know if this happen with all motor controllers but mine controller only work the regenerative braking in medium speeds like a 10 mp/h , less than not work!
Thanks for sharing this info. I got really excited when I found your video.
How on earth did you find out about this little solder trick ?
Update: Jumping ABS to ground on controller model 2018122YF works!
Wow thanks! X to DS worked for me. I love regen braking
worked for me too!
only idea to make it even better, hybrid battery managment with super capacitors and li ion batteries using caps as buffer for high amps when breaking
Drive down a mountain to recharge your battery.
Regen mod is cool I will be doing this to mine very soon, but...how do you get the display on the phone??? its awesome!
Does this work on most controllers and what am I looking for on the controller board
yes
Hi just wondering I have 1000Watt direct drive just wondering does my display have to have that regenerative braking on it or as what you are saying about soldering to controller or does it make a difference
My controller only has SD and XS? I have some pics I can upload, could I get some help?
Nice video and hack! I have a 1500W controller of the same manufacturer. No X, DS, EABS or EBS, but there is an ABS with a GND right across the alley between the rowed solder pads, and think I'm gonna chance it with that.
I had ABS solder pad on mine. It worked!! Thannk you so much. But im not sure this fills up the battery back, also im not sure if there is any settings on my sw900 lcd panel. If someone notice me about that will be happy. My hub fits nicely on the chsasis, but a torque arm may still be needed, will see.
what kind of phone blutooth connectivity you used for the controller?
So did you converted the controller? I am not sure how did you do it?
Is this what I do with my Voliamart controlle?
That's my question, with a smaller Voilamart controller
Can you control the amount of braking regeneration? Harder you pull on brakes more regeneration?
Yeah if pull lightly on the levers it only charges a little but if you crank hard and fly over the handlebars you can have a full battery
Can I install a regenerate system on my mid drive motor electric bike with CYC X1 Pro Gen2 5KW with 72 volts battery?? Where to purchase the system?
What regen voltage is generated ?. I measured a max of 23volts on my 36v system . You need 42v to charge a 36v battery ( you cannot put in a lower voltage than the battery has at the time) obviously if you apply the brakes the battery level will be higher than if it is under load. You would need a boost converter to achieve a high enough voltage to charge the battery ...... I think regen on bikes is a placebo.
How did u measure the voltage?
I have regen on a hoverboard and it boosts the voltage 10 or more volts then the battery voltage (depending on the speed it cant generate enough voltage to keep the system on)
Iven blown the fets when the bms disconnected the battery it reached 100 plus volts!
@@felipehcraftgamer4193 on a bike ,I just turned the key switch to off , freewheeling powers my digi volt meter that I have ..so under no load (of the battery) i got 23v ,if you then connect a load that voltage will drop and you will feel the drag from the back emi , but as has been said regen only helps if you have spare inertia mass like on a heavy vehicle. my battery takes 8 hours at 42v at 2 amps to fully charge to 42v ,any voltage less than its current voltage cannot enter the battery. So if you could generate 42v at 2A from your breaking ....you only have to break for 8 hours to fully charge the battery .....thats a very long hill.. then how do you get back up that hill ......its basic physics
Hi thanks for the insight would this be done on the low brakes or hight brake option
What app are you using
I Tried sodering those exact pinta together and no regenerative braking .
Gear Drive motors won't work(bafang 250w, 350w). RegenBrake normally works on those 1000w+ motors.
Hi can I get some help ? I livin UK and have a 1000w rear engine ebike custom build. My issue struggle to stopp on downhills my pads and discs worning out so quick.
Where can I buy these regen ebike breaks? Cause I couldnt found them anywhere here in England.
Hi, at 3:50
you mentioned that regen is stopped when batter is charged up.
How do you ensure this, and does not blow up the battery? Do you have to do any adjustment apart from soldering the 2 connection?
Does this significantly slow down your bike when you hit the brakes?
Thanks :)
lol all you have to do is go first and THEN stop, not the other way around!
If you don't get the joke, continue reading... Look, on a level road, it is impossible to brake when the battery is full unless you are pedaling. A little overloading will probably not blow up the battery but shorten its life. Solder to a switch instead. Or, if your ride starts at the top of a hill do not fully charge, let regen charge it on the way down. On the video, you can see that regen produces 4 amps. My battery can only be charged at 2 amps, so I would need two batteries. Or, install a switch on the brake level cables so the controller has no clue when you are braking. Install a voltmeter so you can see it for yourself. get a capacitor/diode combination to take the regen load. etc. Just look at the video and know basic physics: Because of efficiency and drag forces, the bike needs more energy to gain speed than what it would need to slow it down, so it is impossible to overcharge if you are on a flat level road or you have solar panels, pedaling, a sail, being towed, etc. You just need to learn the basics of physics. In this universe, energy in = energy out ALWAYS unless you are God or you have some Godlike power. Charging a battery in a freezer and then moving it to a sauna will also cause the voltage to rise.
@@productcheck Or just turn the bike off for that first hill ... you're going down hill, why do you need it on?
@@DonHavjuan does that really disconnect the regen though? Probably if controller is off yes, but does the control have a voltage regulation circuit? Or is this solder trick going to bypass something directly to ground in which case it might still push charge into the battery
Hi, I 'm looking at activating regenerative braking but on a throttle instead...
Seemingly making more sense
I thought all that connection did was to have the motor slow you down. Those motors barely put out 12 volts when you are rolling. How does that charge a 52 volt battery? I had to use a voltage booster to do it.
mine was puting out max 30v if i had some speed, but still i had to use a boost converter. I dont see how that controller is able to up the voltage
It will use the motor coils very like a boost converter
Pulsing then to ground then to vcc through the diodes on the motor controaller
@@felipehcraftgamer4193 I read that article. Those cheap controllers don't have that boost circuit
This is amazing!
how have you got bluetooth connected to this controller?
im sure its conected to the batter bms NOT the controller
Is this what you guys do in your spare time?
I'm impressed
i have the same controller, how are you getting the information from your controller to your phone??
Phone is connected to BMS! There is no Bluetooth connection on the controller
@@sideproject4028 is there any way to connect a lcd to this controller?, i seen there are a lot of spare pads on the board.
@@geofrancis2001 That I don't know. There might be a way, but it's probably easier to just get one with LCD connector already on it
@@sideproject4028 i am trying to find if the same controller is used in more expensive kits to see if any more features can be enabled. where did you find out about this mod?
i was just thinking, the solder jumper be replaced by a switch to make regen easy to switch on and off, then another thought occurs to me, can it be switched on the fly ? or coiuld the switch be replaced with a potentiometer? or some kind of pwm control to give variable regen.
How do I learn which thing to solder in my smaller controller?
hi, i activated my regen braking and then the brake was too powerful that my wheel almost loose grip. how do i fix that?
You can use torque arm, or cut a fitting wrench and screw to the chasis
How apply brakes create charging to the battery?
Dose your brake generate the charge or the hub motor create charge? How?
Basically the motor becomes a generator and charges the battery when you apply the brakes when regeneration braking is on.
What brand is the speed controller and hub motor? Thanks
So, like 3 out of 21 = 1/7 or14.5%?
Not bad!
That's great. I have a high power kit 52v 40 amps. Can go pretty fast. My city has no bike lanes so it's safer to go faster, when riding alongside the cars. I've been using the regen brake for the main purpose of assisting the brakes when braking from high speed. It's great. I don't even care about the battery regen, just the added brake power is awesome. I wonder why it's not more popular, some people don't even know their controllers are capable of regen braking. It's a great safety feature.
I've been wondering if there is a way to use the brake levers sensor to make a brake tail light for the bike. Any ideas?
Thanks.
Hi. Did you modify also your controller just like in the video to enable regen braking of your controller?
@@shadoworkz123 no. The controller came with the function. I just had to connect the wires.
@@Lucaslfm1 oh good thing. I am planning to buy 2000w motor w/ 40amp controller also. Regen braking help a lot when stopping. Thanks bro.
@@shadoworkz123 Be aware. Some controllers have stronger regen brakes than others. The problem is most Chinese sellers don't mention the High brake power , so you have to kind count on luck. I guess the more powerful the controller the stronger the regen brake, but I'm not sure. I have ridden other bikes with much less powerful regen braking than mine. You might also be able to modify how strong you want the regen brake to be, but then again, it always depends on the controller.
Good luck.
@@Lucaslfm1 You can't adjust the strength via display monitor? I have electric kick scooter, it can be adjusted from non to high.
awesome video. my friend says that ahub motor can' t have regen if it has a free casette on the rear wheel? Is this true? I thought as long as the motor stator had the torque arms to keep it still then regen would work via the controlelr's electronics right?
your friend is wrong
awesome. would this work on a BBSHD middrive (Nireeka Prime)? I do a lot of uphill downhill...
no regen cannot work with motors that have a freewheel
I have made an ebike 1000W zelus, activated regen braking on the controller cause I live in a hilly area, battery Samsung - 15Q cells used 13s20p. It's 30Ah 1.638kWh 360A max continuous discharge current. I use it for uber eats, my problem is that after I have discovered that the max speed is set by the smart "those 2 white wires coming out of the controller". I had to upgrade the battery fuse from 30 to 40A, all well until today. The trouble is that I need a new fuse.... Any suggestion?
How did you activate regen on the zelus controller cant seem to find it?
i get max 4-6A brake Amps .... how to get stronger Regen? i want to stop in 20m or so...
Wich motor are you using?
A smaller wheel diammeter paired with a geared hub motor should give you super regen
@@felipehcraftgamer4193 most geared hub motors freewheel like a cog/chain does.
thanks!!! did same
Is this only possible when uve got the brakes supplied installed? Obviously, I hear you say lol
Yes you need a brake handle installed so controller knows when you press it. You might be able to just rig up a switch or something instead
@@sideproject4028 i seen a video where someone used a second throttle to vary the regen and activate it
DS stands for 电刹（dian sha）
If I'm correct the motor is inductive in nature, how does it generate electricity?
It's a brushless(hall sensors) dc motor with magnets. It's not an induction motor.
the same way the Hoover dam generates. by rewiring the circuit.
man,now think twice. use a 1000W front and a 100W Rear Motor,activaiting on boht the Break and NOW install a 750/1000W Bafang Mid Motor. Use the Midmotor and push the same time a Brekas and you drive with the Mid Motor, near the both Hub Motor produce power.if you use less Power for the Mid then both Motor produce,will your battery never be discharged. it means you have 3 Motors,can use all 3,but most time can 2 of them produce power and charge the hole time. you can programm the Hub to break after a Speedlimit,for exempel 20Mph,but your mid motor can drive 40 Mph,so your Hubs start with 20Mph to charge . for the Mid drive a Thump throttel and for the Hubs a Twist throttel som can be deativated. so it will be a mid drive in the first pleace and a Rocker in the secound because of 3 Motor with 3000 Watt. if you balance breaking of the hubs and the max speed of the mid,can the hubs not be to hot and the mid motor must not work so hard if you use gears also for more thorgue,not speed. if you can drive 30 Mph with the Mid Motor and the Buhs break with 5Mph will the mid motor not rich the 1000Watt he can use. or you drive fast,but later you drive slow and break hard to charge faster. a endless Bike ;-) or use a Car Alternator ;-)
Here is a good idea. Use it to charge your phone.
Can someone help me please? i've a kt controller that has regen as far as i know but when i brake it says that the brakes are activated but it will not do regen... so you may say it does not have regen but if i ride for a longer distance the regen works after a lot of km, in the beginning it does it vert weak and then it keeps braking harder but by the moment it does that the battery is almost empty so yeah i wanted to work al the time and with my old kt controller 25amps max it worked all the time and now with my 40amp controller it doenst work.
Can someone help me out?
no
Never became a succes
Only in hilly areas
saves on pads.....