I live in Brazil, and I don't know how to speak English, I must understand about 70% of the video with automatic subtitles, which are not so precise or accurate. But even partially understanding, your videos have helped me a lot. The average salary in Brazil is just over $300 a month, and this camera costs $3200 here. This creates a lot of uncertainty when deciding which camera to buy, because this is a huge investment. And there is almost no video content about the Fugifilm XH2S in Portuguese. But through your videos I was encouraged to buy the XH2S, and I'm very excited about the next steps. Your videos help me a lot, thanks for making them. (Sorry for the English, I translated this on Google Translate)
@@de-graftasafo-adjei4646 Unfortunately in Brazil, Fugifilm still doesn't have much strength, so it's hard to find even new ones to buy. My only option at the moment is to buy imports through AliExpress from China, and hope not to be taxed by customs, which can increase the value by 60%.
@@davidboni7648 Please if you have a trusted friend abroad who has access to your desired camera. You can buy through that person and if he finds sne coming to Brazil, the person brings the camera along.
Oh man the af-lock button is a game changer. Coming from sony, you can switch between af and mf while recording which was very helpful - particularly with gimbal shots with foreground elements crossing between the camera and subject. Can't do that with the xh2s. Also, your iso workaround is super smart. Lots of cool tips here!
Actually, switching between MF and AF is achievable with the xh2s. in the AF+MF menu, select AF+MF to ON and then select Instant AF and switch to continuous. Now, anytime you are using continuous AF, you can turn the focus ring on your lens to manually focus, then when you want to switch back to autofocus all you have to do is hit the button that you have assigned to AF ON.
On my Fuji X100T, X100F and X100V I have found that shooting at ISO 800 enabled you to shoot at DR400 which is an amazing dynamic range, while shooting at lower ISO decreases the DR to 200 and 100. I treat my Fujis as film cameras, only changing shutter speed and aperture and keep them always at ISO800, occasionally I use the build in ND filter if I need to shoot in bright conditions. :)
The DR400 basically exposes the image at base ISO (160) but boosts the shadows accordingly. So DR200 boost shadows by 1 stop, and DR400 boost shadows by 2 stops. All this processing is done internally even to the RAW file. So essentially you can get the same result by shooting at 160 ETTR and bringing up shadows in post. Trying to boost shadows for shots at DR400 in post gets grainy very quickly as you're lifting maybe 3 stops or more. I only use the DR option for recipes, but for situations where I will do post-processing, I turn it off.
DR400 actually becomes available at ISO 640. It's a noticeable difference when you're shooting indoors and the windows aren't blown out as much. For example, I use DR400 for real estate shoots (video and photo) because it retains more HDR with the darker interior and much brighter windows. I you're outside with even lighting, it won't make much difference. Only in higher contrast lighting situations.
Thank you for making this video, Blase. and for doing it in such a calm and relaxed way. very informative and helpful. I just invested in a xh2s and can't wait to set it up.
Honestly, you're the one who gets the best shots from this camera 👏 I'm really curious about your flog2 color grading process. Can you make a video about it 🙏
Outstanding! Logical progression to follow and learn. Well done. BTW, I’m still unsure about connecting an external monitor as well as advantages? I bought a Ninja V for my SONY and still have never used. Early days G.A.S. Thanks for the recommendations on XH2 setup. I got a lot out of! Cheers.
Glad to hear it! Appreciate the feedback. External monitor are really for seeing a larger image. Helps with nailing exposure, focus, framing etc as the small screen has a lot jammed on to it. Hope that helps!
Great video, especially switching back to Fuji after 5 years. Very helpful to remind me of all the customization thats possible. Only thing I am confused about is how do you get to the MY Settings part and also customize the quick screen section?
This link might be easier than me explaining: fujifilm-dsc.com/en/manual/x-t2/shortcuts/my_menu/index.html - for the Q menu, its 'Set Up' then 'Button/Dial Setting' then Edit/Save Quick Menu for either Photo or Video
Dynamic Range to 400 is almost always better, please check some videos regarding it. Its a huge difference in detail you might be losing in some specific scenarios!
Hey @blasepivovar really enjoying the content - super helpful as I continue to learn my fuji camera. Right now it seems like I'm having trouble getting quality footage in post, compared to some other footage I have seen. And I realized I'm still pretty unsure about which settings I should use in the editing software to work with my fuji files - especially F-log2 (if there is anything unique for these files). I wanted to see if you had any suggestions of where I could find this information or maybe this could be a suggestion for future content. (I use Final Cut, but I'm guessing may of them are the same across different editing software)
hey! are you wondering specifically about color grading? if so several videos on my channel about my process. if not, let me know more specifically what i could help with
@@blasepivovar thanks for the response! Honestly, I think I'm running into a bit of "not knowing what I don't know" - so I'm not sure how great of an explanation I will have 😅... In retrospect, I think some or all of what I may have been running into is underexposing (which you had some great content addressing). But I also recently heard someone say basically "make sure to select such and such in the editing software if you're using f-log2"... of course the "such and such" was actually real advice that I've forgotten. Overall I just am wondering if part of the problem may be any settings that I am using/not using in Final Cut Pro that may be specific to f-log 2 footage. I had resorted to using film simulations (which I do think are great at least) but this got me to try some test footage with f-log2 again. In this pretty controlled environment it did turn out well. Maybe no real issue other than perhaps underexposing, but I wanted to see if there may be anything I'm overlooking in the editor. Thanks again!!
@@tad7358 totally understand. I would say, get an image that looks properly exposed in camera to your eye. from there, grade with luts that you like. I have some I sell on my site but there are lots out there. there are no special settings you necessarily have to enable in your software when grading flog 2. if you watch any of my videos on color grading, i walk though the basics of how to get a better looking image that straight out of camera. hope that helps! keep at it
@@blasepivovar I appreciate it, and the reassurance in itself is helpful. Definitely going to give flog another go with proper exposure. Thanks for sharing your knowledge, I appreciate the time!
Hello brother in Christ! Thanks for this video, I really like the way you present and edit your video's. You air a certain calmness that is really different from standard RUclips video's, which are often too hyped up. Also nice that you choose the NR level that you actually want, instead of following the mainstream advices. It makes the set-up video feel genuine and down-to-earth. Little question: thus far, I wanted to upgrade to the X-2HS for my second Fuji camera body (I'm a X-T3 user, just like you were). But now the Lumix S5II is announced, I am a little hesitant. The price is lower and for that you get better autofocus, a full-frame image with great looking colors and very good IBIS and a plethora of video assist tools. Also, the Lumix S (f/1,8) lenses are actually cheaper than most Fuji (f/1,4) lenses. What reasons would there be to still go for the X-H2S?
Thanks so much! Happy to be doing things a little different here on youtube and glad it is refreshing to you. I think that is a super fair question. The S5II looks amazing. For me, since I shoot a lot of projects where I need 2-3 cameras (interviews / live music captures / etc) it is important that all my cams match pretty easily. I own two XT3's and then the XH2S which makes things pretty easy. If you only need one camera, it could just come down to your needs and deciding if moving to Panasonic would be best for the type of work you are doing. Hope that helps!
@@blasepivovar That’s actually a very good point, that I honestly forgot in my thought process. I already own a X-T3, so the X-H2S will complement it perfectly for a duo-camera video setup, or for a second photography camera body for weddings. The S5II would force me to buy a second S5II or a lower-grade Lumix camera body, but I love my X-T3 for photography.
Hugely helpful video and thank you for this great video! One thing though, about 2:14 for "Data Level Setting" - the manual says for "Video Range, the signal range for 8-bit movies is limited to 16-235 and that for 10-bit movies to 64-940. Full range: the signal ranges for 8-bit and 10-bit movies are respectively 0-255 and 0-1023". I'm quite confused and your explanation of whether shooting ProRes didn't help too much yet. Do you mind explaining this a little more if you have a chance? Thank you!
It’s a confusing topic for sure and I don’t exactly even understand it all. Camera settings/specs wizard Gerald Undone said what I did in the video and i’ve just gone with what he recommended. His video on the XH2S might be more helpful to watch that me trying to explain :)
Thanks to your videos, I already sent to order my XH2s, I wanted to ask you a question, hopefully it will make me understand why I am using the translator since I speak Spanish... I am thinking of buying a Lexar v60, do you think they are enough to start... since I ran out of money for the cfexpress type b
If you are just wanting to shoot with the settings I use (200 MPBS, H.265, Long GOP) you can get by with just a V30 UHS-I U3 Card. I use these: amzn.to/3ennxLI
Noticed that you said you shoot with Sigma Art lenses. What mount converter do you use and what’s your experience shooting apsc through full frame glass?
yo! essentially just a quick way for me to switch between 24fps for real time stuff (classic chrome or flog 2) and then higher frame rates for slow motion (with both options of classic chrome or flog 2). Just depends on the project / scene i am capturing and if it is going to be real time or slow motion. And then so I want to shoot in Log or not. Hope that helps!
Great presentation thank you! If your using devinci, what color management setting are you using for the source space since there still is no Flog2 input gamma, only Flog?
@blasepivovar 👍. Fwiw, I've got a background in still imaging. My xh is on it's way here and I've been digging to find the color managed workflow for Devinci. Running CM will give better recovery results than a lut for grading bad footage or where you want to push things far from normal. The only things I'm reading are using the Arri log3. Until a proper Flog2 transform gets released . I guess I'll try it and see. I'm at the early stages of video but some things carry from still work..... And some don't 🍻
I believe they label it as Photometry and you can assign it to the Q Menu manually. Button/Dial settings > Edit/Save Quick Menu > Pick Slot to Edit > Assign Photometry. Hope that helps!
@@blasepivovar Ok I got it in q menu, it shows up as a little yellow bird??? now I have 2 birds, the other one is the subject detect, strange. Don't know why they just can't call it metering mode like the rest of the world? BUT now that it's there, how to go through the metering modes, can't get it to do anything. Now on the phone with FUJI and they can't figure it out. I have had many cameras, shouldn't be this hard. They had me find it in settings and it's grayed out? WTH getting pissed now.
@@bcrphoto7 is this in photo mode or video mode? mine is greyed out if I have face detection or subject detection enabled so you could try turning those off. if you are in video mode, the best place to access it might just be page 2 of Movie Settings.
@@blasepivovar It was photo mode, and it worded by taking bird detection off, Don't u think that's STUPID? If I'm in on a bright heron, it would be nice to bring up metering mode and switch to spot metering mode. Now I have to turn off subject detcion, then go to metering mode. Bird will be in the next county by then.
Hey Blase, thanks for the great video - I'm using Flog2 (iso 1250) and I've noticed some lights jumps in my footage when there's less light (dusk outdoor/darker indoor) and I'm trying to figure out what is causing it. When I have good lighting I have zero issues. Thanks for your answer!
Hmmm. Not sure what you mean as I have not experienced anything like that. If you wanted to email me a link to the footage I would be happy to take a look!
Thanks again Blase for taking the time to review my footage and help me find the solution! Solution was: my shooting mode was set to P/Program which was causing these rapid automated exposure shifts. My shooting mode is now set to Manual and it all works perfectly fine, no weird light jumps anymore.
I’ve been having trouble getting any Opengate signal to come through my external monitor. Even with the HDMI info screen set to “on”. Can’t seem to find anyone who can solve this issue. Is it just an XH2s issue that I have to live with?
Sorry to hear you have been having issues. What monitor are you using? I have two different monitors that behave differently. On one of them I have to turn on the HDMI info display to send. On the other which is newer, it simply can get a clean feed without that setting on.
Hi, I wanted to make similar settings for C1, but many options are not highlighted (cannot be set). Do you know why this might be? Thanks for the video!
Hey Mateusz! Good question. I am not sure, but have you checked that you have C1 set to Movie mode instead of Stills? They let you set each custom button separately. To check, go to Movie Setting - Page 3 - Custom Mode Setting and ensure they are set to Movie. If that is not the issue, let me know specifically which options cannot be set and I can help troubleshoot :)
The XH2S is not a full frame camera, therefore does have a crop. However this camera does not have any additional crop while shooting at 60fps. Hope that helps!
Hey man! Thans for this nice content :) When I record and I try to watch ProRes 422 HQ videos in my laptop is not possible. Do you know what may be the problem? Do I need to decode it or transform the file?
@@blasepivovar I have just realized that very short videos filmed in 6k and weight less that 1,5 GB I can watch them. Then once they´re heavier than 1,5 GB my laptop doesn´t play it, davinci doesn´t recognise it and many other problems where a try to transcode the videos doesn´t recognise them either. My laptop is a gaming one (Pulse 15 b13v) so I would say that it is powerful enough to handle these files. Did you ever have this problem before?
@@albertotudelacrespo1880 Interesting. I am on an M1 Pro MacBook and have no issues with playback. I don't really know much about gaming laptops unfortunately and what might be causing that issue. Resolve uses the GPU for image processing so my guess it would be something with that. Sorry I can't be of more help!
For F-Log2 in ProRes 422 MOV, is it still right to set it to 'Video Range' for the video data setting, or in that scenario since it's LOG footage should it be set to 'Full Range'? Can't seem to find a definitive answer anywhere. Thx!
I don't often film in ProRes but my understanding is still that anything filmed in ProRes = Video Range, and then anything filmed in H265/264 = Full Range. I'd would do your own testing to verify that but has been consistent with what i have heard. Hope that helps!
I don't think I can explain what they are in a comment but essentially you want 'Full Range" for non ProRes files and "Video Range" for ProRes files. Has something to do with how your editor will interpret the color data when grading I believe. Hope that helps
Pretty much still using all these settings as stated, however I have been using High ISO NR of 0 as it has yielded better results for me.
with flog-2 ? you are saying NR -0?
Yep
And for f log 2… Are you using sharpness -4 and interframe nr to off? You only speak of those 2 settings in Classic Chrome. Thank you in advance.
I live in Brazil, and I don't know how to speak English, I must understand about 70% of the video with automatic subtitles, which are not so precise or accurate. But even partially understanding, your videos have helped me a lot.
The average salary in Brazil is just over $300 a month, and this camera costs $3200 here. This creates a lot of uncertainty when deciding which camera to buy, because this is a huge investment.
And there is almost no video content about the Fugifilm XH2S in Portuguese.
But through your videos I was encouraged to buy the XH2S, and I'm very excited about the next steps. Your videos help me a lot, thanks for making them.
(Sorry for the English, I translated this on Google Translate)
The English was perfect man! No worries. Greeting’s from Holland
Thanks so much David! Yeah it is definitely not the cheapest camera out there. Glad my videos have been helpful to you over in Brazil :)
You can also cut cost by being buying used in the used market or the second hand market from KEH, B&H, and also MPB
@@de-graftasafo-adjei4646 Unfortunately in Brazil, Fugifilm still doesn't have much strength, so it's hard to find even new ones to buy. My only option at the moment is to buy imports through AliExpress from China, and hope not to be taxed by customs, which can increase the value by 60%.
@@davidboni7648 Please if you have a trusted friend abroad who has access to your desired camera. You can buy through that person and if he finds sne coming to Brazil, the person brings the camera along.
Oh man the af-lock button is a game changer. Coming from sony, you can switch between af and mf while recording which was very helpful - particularly with gimbal shots with foreground elements crossing between the camera and subject. Can't do that with the xh2s. Also, your iso workaround is super smart. Lots of cool tips here!
Thanks so much! Glad you found a few of them helpful!
Actually, switching between MF and AF is achievable with the xh2s. in the AF+MF menu, select AF+MF to ON and then select Instant AF and switch to continuous. Now, anytime you are using continuous AF, you can turn the focus ring on your lens to manually focus, then when you want to switch back to autofocus all you have to do is hit the button that you have assigned to AF ON.
I’ve just bought an XH2s, this video is a God send thank you so much
Love to hear that. Happy to help!
This is the video I was looking for. Answered every single one of my questions. Thank you!
Love that. So glad it was helpful 🤘🏽
This is the best settings and tips video I could found on yt. thank you !
glad to hear that!
On my Fuji X100T, X100F and X100V I have found that shooting at ISO 800 enabled you to shoot at DR400 which is an amazing dynamic range, while shooting at lower ISO decreases the DR to 200 and 100. I treat my Fujis as film cameras, only changing shutter speed and aperture and keep them always at ISO800, occasionally I use the build in ND filter if I need to shoot in bright conditions. :)
I’ll have to do some tests! That is good to know
The DR400 basically exposes the image at base ISO (160) but boosts the shadows accordingly. So DR200 boost shadows by 1 stop, and DR400 boost shadows by 2 stops. All this processing is done internally even to the RAW file. So essentially you can get the same result by shooting at 160 ETTR and bringing up shadows in post. Trying to boost shadows for shots at DR400 in post gets grainy very quickly as you're lifting maybe 3 stops or more. I only use the DR option for recipes, but for situations where I will do post-processing, I turn it off.
@@professionalpotato4764 Thanks for that explanation. Totally makes sense. Love that Fuji gives us that option in camera!
DR400 actually becomes available at ISO 640. It's a noticeable difference when you're shooting indoors and the windows aren't blown out as much. For example, I use DR400 for real estate shoots (video and photo) because it retains more HDR with the darker interior and much brighter windows. I you're outside with even lighting, it won't make much difference. Only in higher contrast lighting situations.
Other then not really showing us how you got to those menus which caused me to go hunting. This was an extremely helpful video!
Thanks for the feedback. Glad that you found the video helpful!
@@blasepivovar thank you for taking the time to make it!
Thank you for making this! Greetings from Australia.
Happy to! Glad you enjoyed it :)
Thank you for making this video, Blase. and for doing it in such a calm and relaxed way. very informative and helpful. I just invested in a xh2s and can't wait to set it up.
Glad to hear it was helpful. Thanks for the feedback 🤘🏽
Super helpful! Thank you for making this! Great way to kickstart filming with my xh2s
Glad to hear that!
Honestly, you're the one who gets the best shots from this camera 👏 I'm really curious about your flog2 color grading process. Can you make a video about it 🙏
Ah thanks so much! That video is on my list to make here soon :)
@Blase Pivovar awesome! I've been struggling with grading it too so I'd love to see what you're doing!
Actually recently posted a video with my color grading process with these luts! Hope it helps!
@@blasepivovar awesome! I'll check it out!
Great tips. Thanks for this!
Glad to help! Thanks so much.
SUPER helpful video, Blase. Thank you! Can I ask about the gorgeous piece of music at the end?
Thank you! Song is 'Andes' by Inola available on Musicbed
Hi Blaise! Funny im commenting here! Just traded my xt5 for xh2s for the flip screen and watched your video immediately :)
Oh no way! Nice. Happy to help!
This is so good. Straight to the point
thanks so much! glad it helped
Great usefull video! Tks for sharing! 👌🏽🙏🏼
Your welcome! Thanks so much 🙏🏽
Outstanding! Logical progression to follow and learn. Well done. BTW, I’m still unsure about connecting an external monitor as well as advantages? I bought a Ninja V for my SONY and still have never used. Early days G.A.S. Thanks for the recommendations on XH2 setup. I got a lot out of! Cheers.
Glad to hear it! Appreciate the feedback. External monitor are really for seeing a larger image. Helps with nailing exposure, focus, framing etc as the small screen has a lot jammed on to it. Hope that helps!
Thank you for this great Video ! Thumbs up 👍🏻 keep it up
Thanks Stephan!
Great video, especially switching back to Fuji after 5 years. Very helpful to remind me of all the customization thats possible. Only thing I am confused about is how do you get to the MY Settings part and also customize the quick screen section?
This link might be easier than me explaining: fujifilm-dsc.com/en/manual/x-t2/shortcuts/my_menu/index.html - for the Q menu, its 'Set Up' then 'Button/Dial Setting' then Edit/Save Quick Menu for either Photo or Video
Great video! Thanks!
You are welcome! Appreciate it :)
Dynamic Range to 400 is almost always better, please check some videos regarding it. Its a huge difference in detail you might be losing in some specific scenarios!
send me some links and ill check them out
Great vid!
Thanks!
Great run through. Thank you!
Thanks Shawn! Appreciate the feedback :)
I saw a couple of your weddings great work! Were those shot on the Fuji xH2S as well?
Thanks so much. Recent films yes! Older films were the XT3
Hey @blasepivovar really enjoying the content - super helpful as I continue to learn my fuji camera. Right now it seems like I'm having trouble getting quality footage in post, compared to some other footage I have seen. And I realized I'm still pretty unsure about which settings I should use in the editing software to work with my fuji files - especially F-log2 (if there is anything unique for these files). I wanted to see if you had any suggestions of where I could find this information or maybe this could be a suggestion for future content. (I use Final Cut, but I'm guessing may of them are the same across different editing software)
hey! are you wondering specifically about color grading? if so several videos on my channel about my process. if not, let me know more specifically what i could help with
@@blasepivovar thanks for the response! Honestly, I think I'm running into a bit of "not knowing what I don't know" - so I'm not sure how great of an explanation I will have 😅...
In retrospect, I think some or all of what I may have been running into is underexposing (which you had some great content addressing). But I also recently heard someone say basically "make sure to select such and such in the editing software if you're using f-log2"... of course the "such and such" was actually real advice that I've forgotten. Overall I just am wondering if part of the problem may be any settings that I am using/not using in Final Cut Pro that may be specific to f-log 2 footage.
I had resorted to using film simulations (which I do think are great at least) but this got me to try some test footage with f-log2 again. In this pretty controlled environment it did turn out well.
Maybe no real issue other than perhaps underexposing, but I wanted to see if there may be anything I'm overlooking in the editor.
Thanks again!!
@@tad7358 totally understand. I would say, get an image that looks properly exposed in camera to your eye. from there, grade with luts that you like. I have some I sell on my site but there are lots out there. there are no special settings you necessarily have to enable in your software when grading flog 2. if you watch any of my videos on color grading, i walk though the basics of how to get a better looking image that straight out of camera. hope that helps! keep at it
@@blasepivovar I appreciate it, and the reassurance in itself is helpful. Definitely going to give flog another go with proper exposure. Thanks for sharing your knowledge, I appreciate the time!
Hello brother in Christ! Thanks for this video, I really like the way you present and edit your video's. You air a certain calmness that is really different from standard RUclips video's, which are often too hyped up. Also nice that you choose the NR level that you actually want, instead of following the mainstream advices. It makes the set-up video feel genuine and down-to-earth.
Little question: thus far, I wanted to upgrade to the X-2HS for my second Fuji camera body (I'm a X-T3 user, just like you were). But now the Lumix S5II is announced, I am a little hesitant. The price is lower and for that you get better autofocus, a full-frame image with great looking colors and very good IBIS and a plethora of video assist tools. Also, the Lumix S (f/1,8) lenses are actually cheaper than most Fuji (f/1,4) lenses. What reasons would there be to still go for the X-H2S?
Thanks so much! Happy to be doing things a little different here on youtube and glad it is refreshing to you. I think that is a super fair question. The S5II looks amazing. For me, since I shoot a lot of projects where I need 2-3 cameras (interviews / live music captures / etc) it is important that all my cams match pretty easily. I own two XT3's and then the XH2S which makes things pretty easy. If you only need one camera, it could just come down to your needs and deciding if moving to Panasonic would be best for the type of work you are doing. Hope that helps!
@@blasepivovar That’s actually a very good point, that I honestly forgot in my thought process. I already own a X-T3, so the X-H2S will complement it perfectly for a duo-camera video setup, or for a second photography camera body for weddings. The S5II would force me to buy a second S5II or a lower-grade Lumix camera body, but I love my X-T3 for photography.
@@BTMovieSecondChannel Yeah that is what I was thinking!
Legend. Thanks for this :)
Good to see someone using High ISO Noise Reduction as I’ve been back and forward on this myself.
Yo thanks Ross! Glad that it was helpful 🤘🏽
and yeah, high iso NR has been nice for me!
Hugely helpful video and thank you for this great video! One thing though, about 2:14 for "Data Level Setting" - the manual says for "Video Range, the signal range for 8-bit movies is limited to 16-235 and that for 10-bit movies to 64-940. Full range: the signal ranges for 8-bit and 10-bit movies are respectively 0-255 and 0-1023". I'm quite confused and your explanation of whether shooting ProRes didn't help too much yet. Do you mind explaining this a little more if you have a chance? Thank you!
It’s a confusing topic for sure and I don’t exactly even understand it all. Camera settings/specs wizard Gerald Undone said what I did in the video and i’ve just gone with what he recommended. His video on the XH2S might be more helpful to watch that me trying to explain :)
@@blasepivovar Thank you for your reply! I'll check out his video then! I do know of him, I'll search the exact video :)
Thanks to your videos, I already sent to order my XH2s, I wanted to ask you a question, hopefully it will make me understand why I am using the translator since I speak Spanish... I am thinking of buying a Lexar v60, do you think they are enough to start... since I ran out of money for the cfexpress type b
If you are just wanting to shoot with the settings I use (200 MPBS, H.265, Long GOP) you can get by with just a V30 UHS-I U3 Card. I use these: amzn.to/3ennxLI
Noticed that you said you shoot with Sigma Art lenses. What mount converter do you use and what’s your experience shooting apsc through full frame glass?
Great question. I've actually got a video all about that if you haven't checked it out yet: ruclips.net/video/S8C5BPDjPss/видео.html
@@blasepivovar oh awesome I’ll check it out! Thanks
Hey Bro,
could you talk more about why is your custom settings like that? like if you're at c1 what kind of situations do you use that? and so on.
yo! essentially just a quick way for me to switch between 24fps for real time stuff (classic chrome or flog 2) and then higher frame rates for slow motion (with both options of classic chrome or flog 2). Just depends on the project / scene i am capturing and if it is going to be real time or slow motion. And then so I want to shoot in Log or not. Hope that helps!
Great presentation thank you! If your using devinci, what color management setting are you using for the source space since there still is no Flog2 input gamma, only Flog?
thanks! i have several videos here on my channel about how I approach grading. In short, Davinci YRGB and my own LUTs
@blasepivovar 👍. Fwiw, I've got a background in still imaging. My xh is on it's way here and I've been digging to find the color managed workflow for Devinci. Running CM will give better recovery results than a lut for grading bad footage or where you want to push things far from normal. The only things I'm reading are using the Arri log3. Until a proper Flog2 transform gets released . I guess I'll try it and see. I'm at the early stages of video but some things carry from still work..... And some don't 🍻
Why can't I find metering modes on this h2s camera.I thought they should be there when I push the Q button.
I believe they label it as Photometry and you can assign it to the Q Menu manually. Button/Dial settings > Edit/Save Quick Menu > Pick Slot to Edit > Assign Photometry. Hope that helps!
@@blasepivovar Ok I got it in q menu, it shows up as a little yellow bird??? now I have 2 birds, the other one is the subject detect, strange. Don't know why they just can't call it metering mode like the rest of the world? BUT now that it's there, how to go through the metering modes, can't get it to do anything. Now on the phone with FUJI and they can't figure it out. I have had many cameras, shouldn't be this hard. They had me find it in settings and it's grayed out? WTH getting pissed now.
@@bcrphoto7 is this in photo mode or video mode? mine is greyed out if I have face detection or subject detection enabled so you could try turning those off. if you are in video mode, the best place to access it might just be page 2 of Movie Settings.
@@blasepivovar It was photo mode, and it worded by taking bird detection off, Don't u think that's STUPID? If I'm in on a bright heron, it would be nice to bring up metering mode and switch to spot metering mode. Now I have to turn off subject detcion, then go to metering mode. Bird will be in the next county by then.
Hey Blase, thanks for the great video - I'm using Flog2 (iso 1250) and I've noticed some lights jumps in my footage when there's less light (dusk outdoor/darker indoor) and I'm trying to figure out what is causing it. When I have good lighting I have zero issues. Thanks for your answer!
Hmmm. Not sure what you mean as I have not experienced anything like that. If you wanted to email me a link to the footage I would be happy to take a look!
Thanks@@blasepivovar!, just sent you an email
Thanks again Blase for taking the time to review my footage and help me find the solution!
Solution was: my shooting mode was set to P/Program which was causing these rapid automated exposure shifts.
My shooting mode is now set to Manual and it all works perfectly fine, no weird light jumps anymore.
Glad we got it sorted out!.@@Clovistvt
I’ve been having trouble getting any Opengate signal to come through my external monitor. Even with the HDMI info screen set to “on”. Can’t seem to find anyone who can solve this issue. Is it just an XH2s issue that I have to live with?
Sorry to hear you have been having issues. What monitor are you using? I have two different monitors that behave differently. On one of them I have to turn on the HDMI info display to send. On the other which is newer, it simply can get a clean feed without that setting on.
why not use dr200 when your not using flog so you can have a safety net for highlights?
Just personal preference. It raises the lowest possible ISO which I don't prefer + I have really only seen photo shooters using that setting.
@@blasepivovar understood. I’ll do some testing on it as well to see if it benefits the workflow or not.
Quick question: For grain effect I noticed it wasn't an option? Can you only use the grain effect for photos?
Correct, just for photos!
Hi, I wanted to make similar settings for C1, but many options are not highlighted (cannot be set). Do you know why this might be? Thanks for the video!
Hey Mateusz! Good question. I am not sure, but have you checked that you have C1 set to Movie mode instead of Stills? They let you set each custom button separately. To check, go to Movie Setting - Page 3 - Custom Mode Setting and ensure they are set to Movie.
If that is not the issue, let me know specifically which options cannot be set and I can help troubleshoot :)
Thanks for sharing 🙏 small question: the 4k 50/60p on this camera have additional crop or it's full sensor size?
The XH2S is not a full frame camera, therefore does have a crop. However this camera does not have any additional crop while shooting at 60fps. Hope that helps!
would you be open to make some xt3 video tips and tricks video ?
For sure! I still love my XT3! Anything you would be interested in hearing about in that video?
Hey man! Thans for this nice content :) When I record and I try to watch ProRes 422 HQ videos in my laptop is not possible. Do you know what may be the problem? Do I need to decode it or transform the file?
what laptop are you using and what program are you attempting to play the footage in?
@@blasepivovar I have just realized that very short videos filmed in 6k and weight less that 1,5 GB I can watch them. Then once they´re heavier than 1,5 GB my laptop doesn´t play it, davinci doesn´t recognise it and many other problems where a try to transcode the videos doesn´t recognise them either. My laptop is a gaming one (Pulse 15 b13v) so I would say that it is powerful enough to handle these files. Did you ever have this problem before?
@@albertotudelacrespo1880 Interesting. I am on an M1 Pro MacBook and have no issues with playback. I don't really know much about gaming laptops unfortunately and what might be causing that issue. Resolve uses the GPU for image processing so my guess it would be something with that. Sorry I can't be of more help!
For F-Log2 in ProRes 422 MOV, is it still right to set it to 'Video Range' for the video data setting, or in that scenario since it's LOG footage should it be set to 'Full Range'? Can't seem to find a definitive answer anywhere. Thx!
I don't often film in ProRes but my understanding is still that anything filmed in ProRes = Video Range, and then anything filmed in H265/264 = Full Range. I'd would do your own testing to verify that but has been consistent with what i have heard. Hope that helps!
Okay thank you for the info! If I find out any other details I'll return here.@@blasepivovar
Hey I know you! How are the boots?
It's why I'm here too
haha happy to report they are alive and well. swapped out no issue :)
Do you need to use VND filters with the ISO that high?
to shoot wide open at f1.8 in direct sun, yes
What was this shot on?
Hello! As I was filming my XH2S, this was shot on the XT3 and the Sigma Art 18-35.
Hi, what are data level setttings?
I don't think I can explain what they are in a comment but essentially you want 'Full Range" for non ProRes files and "Video Range" for ProRes files. Has something to do with how your editor will interpret the color data when grading I believe. Hope that helps
Its a good start, i was trying to find it online, but not much luck. Neither does the fuji manual give context.