your grip strength at least as far as climbing goes, is gonna be in your finger strength, not how hard you can crush a bar in your hand. Strengthen from the fingers down to your forearms.
That one guy in India that learned how to climb from watching monkeys realised that fingers are the most important thing to train for grip and climbing, and he can climb pretty much any surface exactly like a monkey can, so I'll take his word for it.
When in doubt, go for sports specific exercise. You a rock climber, get a finger board which mimics the grips you will find on climbing. You a pull-up enthusiast, practice one arm hangs from that bar. And so on.
Izztory not necessarily! That study compared individual muscle testing and grip strength, but they didn’t measure anything else. Like maybe that training resulted in an injury you wouldn’t have gotten, or increased throwing force. Who knows 🤷🏻♂️
bro your channel is small but your quality is really good. i love the academic, scientific, and research approach to explaining concepts. really good educational material you made bro. good job continue the good work. subscribed.
How about a study that measures grip-strength before and after starting a grip challenging activity such as climbing and judo. Do you increase your grip strength by using your hands? As a judoka I’m very familiar with forearm fatigue.
Very interesting. But I think the main limiting factor in Ninja Warrior, and the greater limiting factor in climbing, is grip endurance, as opposed to a max grip measure. A ninja athlete is probably strong enough to do most of the obstacles when fresh, but the get fatigued when there are multiple obstacles. Strength and endurance may be causally related, but maybe not. I have seen videos of people who train and improve their hang time. Search also for the Magnus Midtbo ultimate climbing test, which gauges climbing fitness partly by hang time.
sure would be interesting to do a video on grip stregth and stuff compared to normal people metal workers propably are stronger than climbers seeing how you need to squeeze between 100-200lbs to cut off a bolt and stuff with pliers, sometimes even way more, but then you have a good chance of breaking your pliers
I recently seen a video saying dead hangs improve grip strength 🦾 so I do it at the end of my workouts - I noticed a gain - I do squats w/ 80 lb dumbbells & a 50lb vest & I noticed I can hold on longer 🤙 same thing with my rows 🤙
The muscles of the hand are the pri.ary activator of the motor system ,not the forearms. So how do you prevent loss of grip as you age? What modes,methods and application of these ,and where do you find the best equipment? Well nature has produced the animals with the strongest grips,so a good place to look would be in the environment of the animals that have the strongest grip.I will soon do a video dedicated to this subject
I will say that my grip strength triples after a hard cardio run of 30-40 min (can easily dead hang for over 1 minute). I am not sure how this works but it does. Lastly, grip strength in the morning is less than 10 seconds on the dead hangs.
this is very true i stareted doing grip training for about a year casual the gains are huge can close 60kg right now but still got long long way to go.
really enjoyed this video! the insights on grip strength are super helpful for anyone into fitness. however, i can't help but think that while grip strength is crucial, the overall technique and body control are just as important. some may argue that focusing too much on grip can lead to imbalances in training. what do you all think?
Not sure what you mean by a standard hand ergometer, that device that is shown at 3:44 is referred to as a Hand Dynamometer. And those researchers must of been complete novices, none of the five exercises listed at 5:25 specifically target the grip strength that is measured by a Hand Dynamometer. So not sure if you presented that research incorrectly or it was the so called researchers that just wasted everybody's time. Then at 5:47 you say "3 Months of dedicated forearm exercise made no difference in grip strength" Well duhhh LOL nobody trained their actual grip strength. A pinch-grip is not the same as gripping. Some constructive feedback, work on improving your research for your videos. Good luck !
Correct, I should've said dynamometer instead of ergometer at 3:44. When I worked in PT, my mentor called the device an ergometer. I'm used to using the terms interchangeably, but it turns out ergometers are devices meant to measure power, not force like the dynamometer shown. As for the study, I'm sure you already checked my sources in the description before commenting, but it's less of a "duhh LOL" moment and more of a "huh, well I guess that hypothesis wasn't as fruitful as we thought". Since the forearm muscles are responsible for grip, they wondered if strengthening those muscles would lead to increases in grip strength.
@@Corporis I might be grasping at straws a little here, but since the title had Grip Strength in it, that study seemed a little out of place in your video, my impression was that the study in of itself was not primarily focused on grip strength or was not conducted properly, the exercises in the study seemed like they were focused more on wrist control (because there is more to swinging a bat than just grip strength). So I am just having a hard time understanding how it related to your video. That's all. I hope this minor nitpicking serves as valuable feedback for future videos by the way. Lol.
As a rock climber training grip strength for a substantial period of time. I feel like a lot of the research papers you quoted is misleading. It takes significantly longer to have >10% gain in absolute weight. 4/5 weeks blocks are nothing. Try something like a year for 10% gains.
I noticed that about the experimental length too. I looked for longer duration training programs in the literature, and specifically looked for articles that used climbers as subjects, but alas, I couldn't find any on Google Scholar. I'm working on a follow up video to this one about how tendons get stronger -- if you have any scientific articles you'd recommend on the subject as a climber, let me know!
@@Corporis Hi! Lattice climbing in the UK done a lot of research, with large sample sizes and long durations. But they are not published. If I recall correctly, it's 5 to 10% gain per year in finger strength on edges if you're lucky. You can pop them an email tocask how much they can share. Dave MacLeod and Eva Lopez are both elite level climbers and also wrote some papers that are published too, but I am not sure on the duration.
The SAID principle is always there to an extent so try and mimic your sport? If you are hanging from bars, hang more, if you are climbing, do exercises other climbers use, improve the various types of grip strength similar to ways they are measure and presto, better grip.
I've found doing half push ups on your closed hand / fist works good and also balancing in the push up position on one hand / fist its an old martial arts technique.
I would think exercises that actually involve gripping would be ideal.Many of the exercises used were moving the wrist with weight one way or the other.When I think of grip strength I think of wrestling.
strengthening your grip to live longer? isnt the grip strength mortality relationship more because its an indictaion of your muscular atrophy/fitness level oerall. as if just improving grip extends your life. seems like confusion of causation and correlation to me
I feel like grip gets better over time in the movement you’re practicing it in. So like, rock climbing and grip for deadlifts are completely different. If you want better grip in hanging and climbing, than hang and climb more. If you wana get stronger grip for deadlifts, do more deadlifts. I think that’s really it. 1 way of training isn’t gonna improve your grip for every exercise/ activity.
No because your prime moving muscles will outgrow your grip strength for deadlifts. You can do grip training to avoid relying on straps. When it comes to climbing, you’re spot on
The experiment they did makes no sense whatsoever. How would they explain those who at one point can't do one pull up, then eventually be able to do 20 at a time, or rock climbers who can lift their entire bodyweight with just 3 fingers? Working the forearm alone doesn't make sense.
They done a lot of wrist exercises instead of actual grip exercises. Grip sport athletes would be laughing at this experiment those researchers know nothing. There are many types of grip specific strengths. Like crimp, pinch, support/open hand, crush, flat finger, phalange strength but they only focused on wrist flexion/extension and radial/ulnar deviations exercises and one plate pinch workout ofcourse there wouldn't be a noticeable increase in grip strength. Should of had them do one arm deadhangs off a bar instead that would show different results
They may have been trying to test a specific theory about forearms. Although I do tend to suspect that sport-science doesn't attract the Stephen Hawking-level intellects very often.
"we don't know how to improve grip strength" uhh gee, do you think the fact that climbers, butchers, handymen and weightlifters who constantly spend a long time moving their fingers against resisting force might have something to do with them having stronger grips????????
Yep, we're on the same page. To clarify, I never said "we don't know how to improve grip strength". The closest I came to saying that in the video was in reference to an RCT that looked at gains in grip strength experienced by elderly individuals. The trial was over a short-ish amount of time, and used a set of exercises that would've been challenging to that population. I expressed uncertainty because the researchers did. In that time frame, and for that experiment, the increase in grip strength could have come from neural adaptations or hypertrophy of the grip muscles. So yes, I think the fact that climbers spend a lot of time training grip strength has something to do with their stronger grips, but that's not applicable to the study I was referencing in the video. Let me know if that clarifies your comment.
None of what you are talking about makes any sense to me, before anyone sets fire to my comment (I warn you, you knew nothing of this subject when you began). With kindness set aside, am putting together a different approach to only weight lifting. The creator of this video has taken the time to simplify how our grips work. Will need to do some research (reading and watching videos as well as testing what is in this video to grasp a better understanding. Everyone starts at the bottom! Be kind!
Doing wrist exercises wont improve grip strength much. Doing grip specific exercises will however. Stuff like hangboard training, thickbar, pinch training, gripper/crush training. Even some world class armwrestlers (armwrestlers have the strongest wrists) like Michael todd and Devon Larrat has pretty bad grip for someone with that frame and forearm strength. This research was bad instead of doing lots of wrist exercises they should of done grip specific exercises
This is really interesting.... Is the ability to hold a fist while curving the wrist down usual for any conditions? I attempted it and wasn't able to find a position where my fingers couldn't make a fist, but I do have a medical history of vaguely mentioned "low muscle tone and hyper flexibility". At the time this was explained to me as the elasticity of my muscles being a little slack but I haven't been able to find information on it, just gym articles about overall strength. If there are key words I could use to improve my research I'd be grateful to learn them!
Lots of people can do that, but anyone should lose significant gripping strength while curving the wrist down due to the tension of the extensor muscles working against the flexor muscles
Is it just me or are the exercises bs for grip strenght? You are not even gripping anything. You just move your wrist up and down, of course your grip wont improve
That's the million dollar question. The idea is that grip strength is dependent on forearm muscle, so training the forearm muscle should increase grip strength. Unfortunately, as you saw in the video, it's not that straightforward.
@@Corporis Not much of a million dollar question if you ask me. Getting good grip strenght is very straightforward, you grip heavy stuff. Maybe the fault in their thought process becomes more clear if you use a running analogy. Running involves muscles in the leg, thus I must train my leg muscles, thus I will try to squat 300. Pretty clear that this not going to help your running very much. They used this exact thought process for grip
Your comment got me curious, so I dug up some studies and it turns out that resistance training has been shown to improve sprinting performance. Here's a meta analysis from 2014 describing how increased lower body strength is related to improved sprint performance link.springer.com/article/10.1007/s40279-014-0227-1 and a 2016 meta analysis showing how strength training improved running economy www.ingentaconnect.com/content/wk/jsc/2016/00000030/00000008/art00038. Is it a substitute for improved running form or practice? No, but it's interesting how strength training can help
@@Corporis Yes I agree these results are interesting. Do note that in both expirements the subjects also did normal sprints. Maybe the forearm exercises help as a supplementary exercise when also doing normal grip exercises (e.g. captains of crush)
Good content, but could you please stop using background music? It's extremely disturbing. Something like repetitive noise, making it hard to concentrate on what you are telling.
It's crazy to realize that after so many years of science, we're still unable to say with exact confidence how our body works and how to improve it
no, its very simple. train the forearm evenly and strech at the end
@@davijan4460yeah lol
That is what they say about "The more you know, the more you're confused"
we barely know anything, but we know a whole lot more than nothing 😎
your grip strength at least as far as climbing goes, is gonna be in your finger strength, not how hard you can crush a bar in your hand. Strengthen from the fingers down to your forearms.
Correct! Someday I really want to do video about how tendons get stronger.
Ya you are correct man i have done it too and seen the reasult
Corporis yes please
@@Corporis That is super interesting, please do :)
@@Corporis great! Look forward to that!
I think my favorite part of cadaver lab was looking at the muscles, tendons, and ligaments of the arms. Much more complex than I ever expected.
That one guy in India that learned how to climb from watching monkeys realised that fingers are the most important thing to train for grip and climbing, and he can climb pretty much any surface exactly like a monkey can, so I'll take his word for it.
When in doubt, go for sports specific exercise.
You a rock climber, get a finger board which mimics the grips you will find on climbing. You a pull-up enthusiast, practice one arm hangs from that bar. And so on.
TIL that the forearm exercises i suffered through for softball were *useless*
Izztory not necessarily! That study compared individual muscle testing and grip strength, but they didn’t measure anything else. Like maybe that training resulted in an injury you wouldn’t have gotten, or increased throwing force. Who knows 🤷🏻♂️
bro your channel is small but your quality is really good. i love the academic, scientific, and research approach to explaining concepts. really good educational material you made bro. good job
continue the good work. subscribed.
I appreciate that! More videos coming soon
at the end of the day you’ll get more results from jumping into whatever you’re experiencing for than thinking too hard about it
They should include the pacer test
Water I had to look up what that was and now I’m afraid of the internet
@@Corporis lol 😂 never loose confidence and always believe in yourself.
Awesome video! Great work!
Thank you! Cheers!
I changed my grip position for badminton listening to this vid, and WOW! Thank you bro,
Thanks for the extensive and thorough explanation on this topic! And I like that you listed out the references to back up what you said.
Absolutely! I find that many folks who watch this channel want to read the follow up sources, so I always include them!
I like the explanation you give with relevant examples. this helps me understand the science a lot better.
I appreciate the kind words. Take care!
Same !!
How about a study that measures grip-strength before and after starting a grip challenging activity such as climbing and judo. Do you increase your grip strength by using your hands? As a judoka I’m very familiar with forearm fatigue.
Directly training your grip like you do in rock climbing is the only way sure-fire way of improving your grip afaik
When you see a new video but you get two unskipable ad
Very interesting. But I think the main limiting factor in Ninja Warrior, and the greater limiting factor in climbing, is grip endurance, as opposed to a max grip measure. A ninja athlete is probably strong enough to do most of the obstacles when fresh, but the get fatigued when there are multiple obstacles. Strength and endurance may be causally related, but maybe not. I have seen videos of people who train and improve their hang time. Search also for the Magnus Midtbo ultimate climbing test, which gauges climbing fitness partly by hang time.
I love Magnus' channel
I watched the whole 2 min ad for you.... #getpaid
sure would be interesting to do a video on grip stregth and stuff compared to normal people
metal workers propably are stronger than climbers seeing how you need to squeeze between 100-200lbs to cut off a bolt and stuff with pliers, sometimes even way more, but then you have a good chance of breaking your pliers
I'm gonna try this isometric holding exercises for a few weeks to see if I can improve my extensors and my grip strenght as well.
Very interesting video! Gave me a lot to think about re: what my focus really should be and how to attain it.
This is an excellent video.
I recently seen a video saying dead hangs improve grip strength 🦾 so I do it at the end of my workouts - I noticed a gain - I do squats w/ 80 lb dumbbells & a 50lb vest & I noticed I can hold on longer 🤙 same thing with my rows 🤙
The muscles of the hand are the pri.ary activator of the motor system ,not the forearms. So how do you prevent loss of grip as you age? What modes,methods and application of these ,and where do you find the best equipment? Well nature has produced the animals with the strongest grips,so a good place to look would be in the environment of the animals that have the strongest grip.I will soon do a video dedicated to this subject
I will say that my grip strength triples after a hard cardio run of 30-40 min (can easily dead hang for over 1 minute). I am not sure how this works but it does. Lastly, grip strength in the morning is less than 10 seconds on the dead hangs.
look at that flick of that wrist wOOP
As a ninja warrior competitor, this video was super interesting
this is very true i stareted doing grip training for about a year casual the gains are huge can close 60kg right now but still got long long way to go.
great info, awesome vid!
Awesome. U made it fun watch.
Thanks for the information given in this video
really enjoyed this video! the insights on grip strength are super helpful for anyone into fitness. however, i can't help but think that while grip strength is crucial, the overall technique and body control are just as important. some may argue that focusing too much on grip can lead to imbalances in training. what do you all think?
Did you ever make that video how tendonds get stronger? Love your channel!
I haven't yet, but someday!
Not sure what you mean by a standard hand ergometer, that device that is shown at 3:44 is referred to as a Hand Dynamometer. And those researchers must of been complete novices, none of the five exercises listed at 5:25 specifically target the grip strength that is measured by a Hand Dynamometer. So not sure if you presented that research incorrectly or it was the so called researchers that just wasted everybody's time. Then at 5:47 you say "3 Months of dedicated forearm exercise made no difference in grip strength" Well duhhh LOL nobody trained their actual grip strength. A pinch-grip is not the same as gripping. Some constructive feedback, work on improving your research for your videos. Good luck !
Correct, I should've said dynamometer instead of ergometer at 3:44. When I worked in PT, my mentor called the device an ergometer. I'm used to using the terms interchangeably, but it turns out ergometers are devices meant to measure power, not force like the dynamometer shown.
As for the study, I'm sure you already checked my sources in the description before commenting, but it's less of a "duhh LOL" moment and more of a "huh, well I guess that hypothesis wasn't as fruitful as we thought". Since the forearm muscles are responsible for grip, they wondered if strengthening those muscles would lead to increases in grip strength.
@@Corporis I might be grasping at straws a little here, but since the title had Grip Strength in it, that study seemed a little out of place in your video, my impression was that the study in of itself was not primarily focused on grip strength or was not conducted properly, the exercises in the study seemed like they were focused more on wrist control (because there is more to swinging a bat than just grip strength). So I am just having a hard time understanding how it related to your video. That's all. I hope this minor nitpicking serves as valuable feedback for future videos by the way. Lol.
Why is no one talking about 0:24 ?
Truly informative
Interesting video , did you get any research with anyone who trains grip strength specifically?
Hmmmm you pronounced hypertrophy TOTALLY different than I do- I have always pronounced it Hyper- Trophy. LOL. thanks for the education
As a rock climber training grip strength for a substantial period of time. I feel like a lot of the research papers you quoted is misleading. It takes significantly longer to have >10% gain in absolute weight. 4/5 weeks blocks are nothing. Try something like a year for 10% gains.
I noticed that about the experimental length too. I looked for longer duration training programs in the literature, and specifically looked for articles that used climbers as subjects, but alas, I couldn't find any on Google Scholar. I'm working on a follow up video to this one about how tendons get stronger -- if you have any scientific articles you'd recommend on the subject as a climber, let me know!
@@Corporis Hi! Lattice climbing in the UK done a lot of research, with large sample sizes and long durations. But they are not published. If I recall correctly, it's 5 to 10% gain per year in finger strength on edges if you're lucky. You can pop them an email tocask how much they can share. Dave MacLeod and Eva Lopez are both elite level climbers and also wrote some papers that are published too, but I am not sure on the duration.
The SAID principle is always there to an extent so try and mimic your sport? If you are hanging from bars, hang more, if you are climbing, do exercises other climbers use, improve the various types of grip strength similar to ways they are measure and presto, better grip.
I've found doing half push ups on your closed hand / fist works good and also balancing in the push up position on one hand / fist its an old martial arts technique.
This really helped me with parkour thx
so if i wanted to improve/strengthen my grip a good exercise would be the one shown at 6:50 ??
I would think exercises that actually involve gripping would be ideal.Many of the exercises used were moving the wrist with weight one way or the other.When I think of grip strength I think of wrestling.
strengthening your grip to live longer? isnt the grip strength mortality relationship more because its an indictaion of your muscular atrophy/fitness level oerall. as if just improving grip extends your life.
seems like confusion of causation and correlation to me
I feel like grip gets better over time in the movement you’re practicing it in. So like, rock climbing and grip for deadlifts are completely different. If you want better grip in hanging and climbing, than hang and climb more. If you wana get stronger grip for deadlifts, do more deadlifts. I think that’s really it. 1 way of training isn’t gonna improve your grip for every exercise/ activity.
No because your prime moving muscles will outgrow your grip strength for deadlifts. You can do grip training to avoid relying on straps. When it comes to climbing, you’re spot on
The experiment they did makes no sense whatsoever. How would they explain those who at one point can't do one pull up, then eventually be able to do 20 at a time, or rock climbers who can lift their entire bodyweight with just 3 fingers? Working the forearm alone doesn't make sense.
They done a lot of wrist exercises instead of actual grip exercises. Grip sport athletes would be laughing at this experiment those researchers know nothing. There are many types of grip specific strengths. Like crimp, pinch, support/open hand, crush, flat finger, phalange strength but they only focused on wrist flexion/extension and radial/ulnar deviations exercises and one plate pinch workout ofcourse there wouldn't be a noticeable increase in grip strength. Should of had them do one arm deadhangs off a bar instead that would show different results
They may have been trying to test a specific theory about forearms. Although I do tend to suspect that sport-science doesn't attract the Stephen Hawking-level intellects very often.
3:36
Guys, this explains everything!
fabulous!
"we don't know how to improve grip strength" uhh gee, do you think the fact that climbers, butchers, handymen and weightlifters who constantly spend a long time moving their fingers against resisting force might have something to do with them having stronger grips????????
Yep, we're on the same page. To clarify, I never said "we don't know how to improve grip strength". The closest I came to saying that in the video was in reference to an RCT that looked at gains in grip strength experienced by elderly individuals. The trial was over a short-ish amount of time, and used a set of exercises that would've been challenging to that population. I expressed uncertainty because the researchers did. In that time frame, and for that experiment, the increase in grip strength could have come from neural adaptations or hypertrophy of the grip muscles.
So yes, I think the fact that climbers spend a lot of time training grip strength has something to do with their stronger grips, but that's not applicable to the study I was referencing in the video. Let me know if that clarifies your comment.
@@Corporis i was being intentionally inflammatory and antagonistic. sowwwwweeeeeeeeee
None of what you are talking about makes any sense to me, before anyone sets fire to my comment (I warn you, you knew nothing of this subject when you began). With kindness set aside, am putting together a different approach to only weight lifting. The creator of this video has taken the time to simplify how our grips work. Will need to do some research (reading and watching videos as well as testing what is in this video to grasp a better understanding.
Everyone starts at the bottom! Be kind!
That's a great reminder. If you'd like further reading, I linked to all of my sources in the description.
Doing wrist exercises wont improve grip strength much. Doing grip specific exercises will however. Stuff like hangboard training, thickbar, pinch training, gripper/crush training. Even some world class armwrestlers (armwrestlers have the strongest wrists) like Michael todd and Devon Larrat has pretty bad grip for someone with that frame and forearm strength. This research was bad instead of doing lots of wrist exercises they should of done grip specific exercises
Mr K. Remember me it’s Ayden
Waw. I learned nothing. It was like a audio essay
Lmao just do dead hangs 🤸🤾
This is really interesting.... Is the ability to hold a fist while curving the wrist down usual for any conditions? I attempted it and wasn't able to find a position where my fingers couldn't make a fist, but I do have a medical history of vaguely mentioned "low muscle tone and hyper flexibility". At the time this was explained to me as the elasticity of my muscles being a little slack but I haven't been able to find information on it, just gym articles about overall strength. If there are key words I could use to improve my research I'd be grateful to learn them!
Lots of people can do that, but anyone should lose significant gripping strength while curving the wrist down due to the tension of the extensor muscles working against the flexor muscles
Is it just me or are the exercises bs for grip strenght? You are not even gripping anything. You just move your wrist up and down, of course your grip wont improve
That's the million dollar question. The idea is that grip strength is dependent on forearm muscle, so training the forearm muscle should increase grip strength. Unfortunately, as you saw in the video, it's not that straightforward.
@@Corporis Not much of a million dollar question if you ask me. Getting good grip strenght is very straightforward, you grip heavy stuff.
Maybe the fault in their thought process becomes more clear if you use a running analogy. Running involves muscles in the leg, thus I must train my leg muscles, thus I will try to squat 300. Pretty clear that this not going to help your running very much. They used this exact thought process for grip
Your comment got me curious, so I dug up some studies and it turns out that resistance training has been shown to improve sprinting performance. Here's a meta analysis from 2014 describing how increased lower body strength is related to improved sprint performance link.springer.com/article/10.1007/s40279-014-0227-1 and a 2016 meta analysis showing how strength training improved running economy www.ingentaconnect.com/content/wk/jsc/2016/00000030/00000008/art00038.
Is it a substitute for improved running form or practice? No, but it's interesting how strength training can help
@@Corporis Yes I agree these results are interesting. Do note that in both expirements the subjects also did normal sprints. Maybe the forearm exercises help as a supplementary exercise when also doing normal grip exercises (e.g. captains of crush)
@@stefanchannel11 I'm curious did you actually read those links or are you just pretending to lmao
I just listen to Brian Shaws advice, because hes Brian Shaw.
Nice
Thank you! Fun one to make
hey great video! what about the hand's own muscles like mm. interossei and lumbricales?
Pick something heavy up. Put it back down. Do this over and over. Make that item heavier and heavier as you repeat. Pick up. Put down.
Wow 7.5 minutes of we're not sure.
I'm so lost.
Ohh no! What can I clear up for you?
Moneys have no problem with Ninja warriors parkour
That makes cents.
5:29
Good content, but could you please stop using background music? It's extremely disturbing. Something like repetitive noise, making it hard to concentrate on what you are telling.
In one of this type of competition I saw a female former gymnast kick the asses of all the fit males.
Video was a waste of time
Hanayama pathetic
first
Great video!!
4:30
3:37