Having two of literally the best outdoor boulderers in the entire world be this accessible is unheard of in any other sport. I love climbing and the community it creates
Definitely enjoyed the interview format! I'd be interested to see one focused on heel hooks in all their nuances...technique, training, etc...or a broader focal point of maximizing weight onto the feet in general - seems like a nuanced topic with the potential for great insights from experience!
Hangboard, attached to resistance band and do finger curls. It essentially isolates the fingers and wrists for when the shoulders, core and/or other muscle groups are too tired to Hangboard.
Absolutely do more of these. Love to see y'all using your brand to give strong climbers a platform to share their insights! Thank you, it is a great service to the climbing community.
This was an awesome offering. It helps that the climbers you chose could clearly articulate their responses in an in depth way without getting too far in the weeds. Good stuff. Definitely enjoyed it.
Would love to see more of these. I think what really helps are the good relevant questions but also the wide variety of climbers you've asked. Could have one episode themed on projecting, how people approach problems/routes they want to do, and how they troubleshoot moves etc
I would love to see some videos for training or exercise for heavier climbers! As someone that's 195lbs but been Climbing about 9years now and alway feel wight has held me back over finger strength. I'm able to pull 70-85% (174lbs) body weight on one hand lifts but still struggle on steep Climbing and board climbing. any recommendations??
About a month in as a beginner rock wall climbing and I've just had my first minor ring finger tweak. Will definitely try some of these training techniques once I'm back to 100 percent.
This was excellent. I would love a more in-depth interview with a single climber. I am a brand new climber, and I’m absolutely hooked. I know that this is something I want to do for as long as I am physically able. So I want to know how to make a plan to train and climb for both progress but climbing-longevity. I would also like to know how to coach my young kids, who both love the sport. So I think an in-depth interview with a single climber that probes their career trajectory and settled program of training and climbing. I want to know every detail. How many days per week to they train/climb and for how long? What’s the intensity? What’s the routine? How much do they eat and sleep and do before and after their training and climbing? How exactly do they warm up? Etc. I’ll keep pouring through your videos and perhaps answer some of these questions, but it would help me so much to be able to identify a climber that I related to in terms of temperament, attitude, style, etc and be able to deeply study them and everything they do. I can’t move to the UK and I can’t afford a coach of the caliber and quality as your star climbers. But I want them as a guru or sorts. So I want to “make” them my guru through focused study of their entire philosophy and practice of climbing and training. Thank you for reading this.
You'll find a lot of information on this RUclips channel. If you dig back into some of our oldest videos, we used to do more sit down interviews. You might also be interested in our podcast among other climbing podcasts. They are better suited to long-form interviews that cover more depth and breadth. One word of caution, don't ONLY learn from pro climbers or those at the top of their game. They are not necessarily "built" like the rest of us. Use their experience as inspiration but modify any lessons so they apply to you.
Loving the abilities. I rewound the video to make sure I got all the pro tips. Main takeaways: eat more parmesan and get a good lawyer for the missing dividend of finger training.
Im not a climber (yet. Got some nerve damage from my second session ever lol). I figured you can do finger strength with a resistance band. Stand on it and you can pull as progressively hard as you need. You can do individual fingers too. Actually feels bettwr than doing all at the same time
I have pretty strong fingers I think, I can do mono or two finger crimps on climbs when necessary, and people say I have strong fingers. I think the best way to train finger strength is to climb outdoors a lot, and to climb climbs that make you try hard. Not necessarily projecting, but climb a lot of climbs, particularly at or near your maximum onsight/flash grade. Don't forget to try a grade harder every couple climbs to avoid overtraining at one grade (once you onsight a grade higher, switch up a grade in your training). Nothing trains your fingers and crimps like climbing outside. Also don't injure yourself: back off if you're feeling exhausted, don't train to failure. In fact... This is pretty much how one would improve as a climber in general :)
Amazing format, would love to see more like that. It’s very interesting, maybe it would be nice to give your perspective on all answers on each question. As example, it’s interesting to notice that for several questions they all had kind of the same answer. For the first one consistency came back pretty much by everyone. And so on. PS: i loved the funny abilities such as “to be better than Olie…”
I've seen Emil Abrahamsson recent video talking with the Narasaki brothers, and interestingly enough, they said they're only using the spray wall for building finger strength
great, informative video! I would love to see a video like this based solely on board climbing/training. I have a home wall and access to a moon board. It would be useful to know like what they do for training on the board. Volume of training/repetitions/etc.
Definitely good format. Can you make video about strength and conditioning training? Can you also invite Toby Roberts? because when I watched climbing world cup his body has changed incredibly over that period.
Sick video and great information:) It would also be very interesting to focus on how the average climber can apply this to their training since there may be quite a gap in knowlegde, time and ressources between pro athletes and the average climber:)
If you do pull ups once a week for example, would you try to hang more from fingers or take a deeper palm grip? Same for just regular dead hangs if you're training for grip, any opinions? Much appreciated.
IMO keep the pull-ups focused on pulling strength and use which ever grip feels strongest. Don't take a shallow grip (with just fingers) in a effort to train both grip and pull-ups at the same time. It's likely you won't get as good a training response for your fingers or pulling compared to a standalone pull-up and hangboard session.
Hopefully the pros answer - but I've used a gyro ball for years as a low level intensity tool....I think ARCing or easy volume climbing is probably better if you have the wall to do it. Anyway, I think the idea is to increase blood flow for increased recovery. Enough aerobic stimulation also leads to increased capillary density over the long term...that said, a lot of this is happening in the forearm muscles - at the level of the fingers you're probably increasing fluid exchange to help the healing process (nutrients in, waste out). Just my two cents FWIW.
When you say finger strength, are you referring to strength, as in the ability to hold/pull your body weight easier? Or like endurance? Or is that one and the same? I’m pretty new to climbing so forgive the silly question. Haha
60 something climber here. My fingers are my limiting factor in how often i can climb. My concern with peeps doing really hard finger strength training in their 20s is they might be setting up for worn out fingers in their 60s 70s 80s when they still want to be climbing as much as possible.
good informative video! it would be interesting to see the same format but with less elìte climbers... "more average" people that climbed and trained already for some years but are doing 6s and 7s grades... i guess they would be a lot more relatable than these kind 8c+ beasts 😂
Having two of literally the best outdoor boulderers in the entire world be this accessible is unheard of in any other sport. I love climbing and the community it creates
To be fair they probably don't make a bunch of money, so doing some quick videos to get free coaching is probably quite nice for them.
Amazing community, not many sports where your top-of-the-pack athletes have active RUclips channels.
@@lucdutoit256disc golf 😊
Definitely enjoyed the interview format! I'd be interested to see one focused on heel hooks in all their nuances...technique, training, etc...or a broader focal point of maximizing weight onto the feet in general - seems like a nuanced topic with the potential for great insights from experience!
Hangboard, attached to resistance band and do finger curls. It essentially isolates the fingers and wrists for when the shoulders, core and/or other muscle groups are too tired to Hangboard.
Absolutely do more of these. Love to see y'all using your brand to give strong climbers a platform to share their insights! Thank you, it is a great service to the climbing community.
Loved it! Please do more videos like this ... The one about endurance sounds like a great one.
This was an awesome offering. It helps that the climbers you chose could clearly articulate their responses in an in depth way without getting too far in the weeds. Good stuff. Definitely enjoyed it.
Would love to see more of these. I think what really helps are the good relevant questions but also the wide variety of climbers you've asked. Could have one episode themed on projecting, how people approach problems/routes they want to do, and how they troubleshoot moves etc
I would love to see some videos for training or exercise for heavier climbers! As someone that's 195lbs but been Climbing about 9years now and alway feel wight has held me back over finger strength. I'm able to pull 70-85% (174lbs) body weight on one hand lifts but still struggle on steep Climbing and board climbing. any recommendations??
yes, please do explore this type of video more. It really has me engaged, taking notes on the side and stuff. absolutely love it.
Thanks, really enjoyed listening. Perfect timing. One other interesting question would be what they do to prevent finger injuries.
Great video! Keep it up, love you Guys❤
Really enjoyed this format! Good stuff!
10:05 Ah yes Will, I am sure we all have this problem often!
10 - 20% bodyweight is very little though, or did he mean 10 - 20% bodyweight on one arm?
@@gingobingo1567 Most likely
@@gingobingo1567 for sure one arm
One arm is what I assumed as well
He says its more applicable if you’re doing one arm hangs and then gives the 10% 20% stat afterwards
Very cool. I'm in your training program now. It was interesting to hear these different views!
I wish I was near you so I could get your coaching! Great video!
About a month in as a beginner rock wall climbing and I've just had my first minor ring finger tweak. Will definitely try some of these training techniques once I'm back to 100 percent.
Great and exciting video. Format is great. Short but with lots of important information and knowledge. Thank you!
this was one of your best videos. thank you. i would appreciate more like this
Great video format, would love to see more!
great format - thank you!
Great format, would love more of this!
Really cool video, great to hear these perspectives
Love this format!
This was excellent. I would love a more in-depth interview with a single climber. I am a brand new climber, and I’m absolutely hooked. I know that this is something I want to do for as long as I am physically able. So I want to know how to make a plan to train and climb for both progress but climbing-longevity. I would also like to know how to coach my young kids, who both love the sport. So I think an in-depth interview with a single climber that probes their career trajectory and settled program of training and climbing. I want to know every detail. How many days per week to they train/climb and for how long? What’s the intensity? What’s the routine? How much do they eat and sleep and do before and after their training and climbing? How exactly do they warm up? Etc. I’ll keep pouring through your videos and perhaps answer some of these questions, but it would help me so much to be able to identify a climber that I related to in terms of temperament, attitude, style, etc and be able to deeply study them and everything they do. I can’t move to the UK and I can’t afford a coach of the caliber and quality as your star climbers. But I want them as a guru or sorts. So I want to “make” them my guru through focused study of their entire philosophy and practice of climbing and training. Thank you for reading this.
You'll find a lot of information on this RUclips channel. If you dig back into some of our oldest videos, we used to do more sit down interviews. You might also be interested in our podcast among other climbing podcasts. They are better suited to long-form interviews that cover more depth and breadth. One word of caution, don't ONLY learn from pro climbers or those at the top of their game. They are not necessarily "built" like the rest of us. Use their experience as inspiration but modify any lessons so they apply to you.
Loving the abilities. I rewound the video to make sure I got all the pro tips. Main takeaways: eat more parmesan and get a good lawyer for the missing dividend of finger training.
Im not a climber (yet. Got some nerve damage from my second session ever lol). I figured you can do finger strength with a resistance band. Stand on it and you can pull as progressively hard as you need. You can do individual fingers too. Actually feels bettwr than doing all at the same time
I have pretty strong fingers I think, I can do mono or two finger crimps on climbs when necessary, and people say I have strong fingers. I think the best way to train finger strength is to climb outdoors a lot, and to climb climbs that make you try hard. Not necessarily projecting, but climb a lot of climbs, particularly at or near your maximum onsight/flash grade. Don't forget to try a grade harder every couple climbs to avoid overtraining at one grade (once you onsight a grade higher, switch up a grade in your training). Nothing trains your fingers and crimps like climbing outside. Also don't injure yourself: back off if you're feeling exhausted, don't train to failure. In fact... This is pretty much how one would improve as a climber in general :)
Stellar content. The only feedback I have might be throwing in a question about plateauing, as it pertains to the subject in question.
Love the video! Need more like this
Definitely like this type of content, thanks for some great info!
Amazing format, would love to see more like that. It’s very interesting, maybe it would be nice to give your perspective on all answers on each question. As example, it’s interesting to notice that for several questions they all had kind of the same answer. For the first one consistency came back pretty much by everyone. And so on.
PS: i loved the funny abilities such as “to be better than Olie…”
This is great, feels like a bunch of podcasts buttoned up into a easy to digest short format!
Great format, really interesting to hear how some of the strongest climbers train finger strength!
Yes, good video. More, please!!!😊
Brilliant stuff!
Nice video, definitely enjoyed it!!
I've seen Emil Abrahamsson recent video talking with the Narasaki brothers, and interestingly enough, they said they're only using the spray wall for building finger strength
great, informative video! I would love to see a video like this based solely on board climbing/training. I have a home wall and access to a moon board. It would be useful to know like what they do for training on the board. Volume of training/repetitions/etc.
Really Solid video content And concept 💡. Please do More of these!👍👍
Definitely good format. Can you make video about strength and conditioning training?
Can you also invite Toby Roberts? because when I watched climbing world cup his body has changed incredibly over that period.
Great video. I would love to be in a Lattice video. I use a quad block sometimes and have fingerboarding as part of a warm up.
Yo! Where can one procure one those pinch thingys that David was using?? I want one!
instagram.com/pinchthing/
yes please more of these
Sick video and great information:) It would also be very interesting to focus on how the average climber can apply this to their training since there may be quite a gap in knowlegde, time and ressources between pro athletes and the average climber:)
Good feedback thanks! I'll try to add some coaching perceptive if we do this video again :)
Been bouldering for 2 weeks so this really helps :) thank you!!
Great video, so important for all of us climbers!
Really helpful! Would love to know more about training tips for other parts of the body
If you do pull ups once a week for example, would you try to hang more from fingers or take a deeper palm grip? Same for just regular dead hangs if you're training for grip, any opinions? Much appreciated.
IMO keep the pull-ups focused on pulling strength and use which ever grip feels strongest. Don't take a shallow grip (with just fingers) in a effort to train both grip and pull-ups at the same time. It's likely you won't get as good a training response for your fingers or pulling compared to a standalone pull-up and hangboard session.
Great video. Lots of takeaways. Cheers
Great vid, definitely continue
This is a good idea & if you ask them about their diet . It would help.
Would love to see one on endurance or staying injury free
More of this❤
This was great thanks so much!
7:58 What are the benefits of low level airobic finger training?
endurance
Hopefully the pros answer - but I've used a gyro ball for years as a low level intensity tool....I think ARCing or easy volume climbing is probably better if you have the wall to do it. Anyway, I think the idea is to increase blood flow for increased recovery. Enough aerobic stimulation also leads to increased capillary density over the long term...that said, a lot of this is happening in the forearm muscles - at the level of the fingers you're probably increasing fluid exchange to help the healing process (nutrients in, waste out). Just my two cents FWIW.
Volume, variety, and not over training.
The answers to Q No.4 are all surprisingly relatable even to an amauter like me
More of this please
More like this please!
Really good video format
Really informative and cool video 👍👍
Love it!!
this style is sick
This was definitely a good video, and confirmed some of my ideas.
More videos like this pls❤
I looked foward to getting to know the mindset of these athletes 👍
As a French, consuming English content. I can't tell how beautiful and amazing it is to find videos with an English accent !
Yeah this was a good format 👍
“Find something you like and you’ll stick to it”
“Transition your training to the board”
this was great, more like this.
When you say finger strength, are you referring to strength, as in the ability to hold/pull your body weight easier? Or like endurance? Or is that one and the same? I’m pretty new to climbing so forgive the silly question. Haha
The former, we aim to do a follow up video on endurance.
That was awesome :)
The must interesting video ever 🤩
Great vid thank you
More of this
Mindset would be good to see.
I would love to see some lead climbing
Great video
Yes pls
Sick video
60 something climber here. My fingers are my limiting factor in how often i can climb. My concern with peeps doing really hard finger strength training in their 20s is they might be setting up for worn out fingers in their 60s 70s 80s when they still want to be climbing as much as possible.
Overcoming isometrics
good informative video! it would be interesting to see the same format but with less elìte climbers... "more average" people that climbed and trained already for some years but are doing 6s and 7s grades... i guess they would be a lot more relatable than these kind 8c+ beasts 😂
AWESOME
Moreeee
I like how Will Bosi's mistake was to basically get too strong (on certain edges). That must be awful, being too strong 😂
9:58 my mistake was getting too strong 🤣
You know how the girl got those strong fingers 😂😂
She's had years of home training 😂😂😂
the number one method is to have good genetics.
👍
9:50 Is Aiden saying that while recovering from a finger tweak, he's taking it too easy? That's the sense I got, but just wanted to confirm
I thought he was saying he's taking it easy enough rather than too easy
No, hes saying his mistake was pushing it too much.
Bro these guys are masculine from the hands
Genetics
haha true
bro how do u get good tech lol
Love this format!
Great vid, definitely continue
More of these please