I'm a bit skeptical about advising to prioritize heels over toes. It's true that heels are an extremely powerful technique when the situation is right, and they are very useful to suck your hips in, but I see too many people who climb mostly indoors and learn to use heels even before their master the full potential of what they can do with the point of their foot. Knowing how to position precisely the toe, trust the friction and build body tension with poor footholds is an underestimated skill, and much more versatile than heels, that are like a more specific weapon in my opinion (it also requires relatively specific strengths like flexibility and powerful hamstrings)
Yep, all this is true. But I don't think I said heels should be prioritized over toes. Simply that rocking onto a heel gives you a mechanical advantage compared to rocking onto a toe. So it must be considered. This isn't to say there aren't countless possible situations where a toe is better. Rocking onto a heel can 'lock you in' in really well but then also limit your movement afterwards.
I got way better with my heels before my toes were ever useful, few years of board climbing later my toes have definitely caught up but still any given foot big enough for my heel can always take a significant more weight than my toe just because it can let you sit lower under a hold and is literally a foot closer to your center of mass
I have the opposite problem😢 bad score on the hangboard(more or less 120%) and in difficulty on 7c+ - 8a…. (Should be something like 7a by following finger assesment) But the point is that even though I train a lot with many different methods…. Fingerer's strength is so difficult to improve…😢 is anyone stuck in the same situation?😅
Got it. Condition the skin of my hips, decelerate my grip versatility, and sand down holds to improve crimps.
Make sure to chip in jugs on your gyms rock wall
I just came from a session thinking that I need to work on crimps. Thanks for this!
I'm a bit skeptical about advising to prioritize heels over toes. It's true that heels are an extremely powerful technique when the situation is right, and they are very useful to suck your hips in, but I see too many people who climb mostly indoors and learn to use heels even before their master the full potential of what they can do with the point of their foot. Knowing how to position precisely the toe, trust the friction and build body tension with poor footholds is an underestimated skill, and much more versatile than heels, that are like a more specific weapon in my opinion (it also requires relatively specific strengths like flexibility and powerful hamstrings)
Yep, all this is true. But I don't think I said heels should be prioritized over toes. Simply that rocking onto a heel gives you a mechanical advantage compared to rocking onto a toe. So it must be considered. This isn't to say there aren't countless possible situations where a toe is better. Rocking onto a heel can 'lock you in' in really well but then also limit your movement afterwards.
I got way better with my heels before my toes were ever useful, few years of board climbing later my toes have definitely caught up but still any given foot big enough for my heel can always take a significant more weight than my toe just because it can let you sit lower under a hold and is literally a foot closer to your center of mass
This was sick tbf new to climbing and will defo give those a go
thank you lattice training for making climbing more understandable
awesome, great attention for detail and movement skills. thanks
Really nice job Josh! 💪💪
Concept 0.5 to crimping harder: be Will Bosi.
What’s the brand of the stone crimp?
Does anyone have the link to the full-crimping vid with Anna? I can't find it...
I have the opposite problem😢 bad score on the hangboard(more or less 120%) and in difficulty on 7c+ - 8a…. (Should be something like 7a by following finger assesment) But the point is that even though I train a lot with many different methods…. Fingerer's strength is so difficult to improve…😢 is anyone stuck in the same situation?😅