Watching the dropknee section gave me an idea for a video I would love to see from ya'll: put one of those hangboards you have that measure force onto a normal climbing wall and then add a ton of different foot options below to see how much weight you can actually take off the hands using different techniques like dropknee/heelhooks/etc. Cheers great video :-)
Best tip I heard for "drop knees" is to rename them "drop hips". It's easy to not twist your hip enough and put all the pressure on your knee instead of hip flexor and glutes so people are scared of them
Man I just want to say, I fucking love climbing, so psyched at the minute, probably because the new big depot has opened and the routes are just all fucking majestic.
that double heelhook 'bathang' is really impressive, especially because the hold is rather poor i've tried hanging off my heels before and even though my heelhooks are a lot stronger than my toehooks i never even felt cose to pulling it off whereas a normal bathang is totally doable maybe i should try again some time...
It's so cool to watch incredibly strong, talented and skillful climbers talk about their knowledge in ways that somehow magically manages to seem useful to even a relative beginner like me. Incredibly useful stuff, even if things like deadpointing on a board is way outside of my capabilities currently 😂
I never use the "straight down heel" because i always think i can pull more with the twisted heel. I'm looking forward to experiment with it in my next session.
I think he kinda mislead some ppl (or potentially himself too?) with his wording there. Because when heel hooking, the „twist“ is mainly in the hips (external rotation) - it has to be to stay close to the wall. And will still does this with his style of hooking. He just sometimes uses another part of the shoe, utilizing the shape of the equipment for better „grip“ on the hold which puts him in a slightly different starting position (since he doesn’t need to twist his hips that much. But after establishing this position, he still does the same movement pattern. That’s why he still ends up in the more classical „sit on heel position“ at the end. You can really see it on the yellow example boulder. He said that he twists after the move but in reality, he just used the straight on heel to lock the heelhook in place (instead of using the outer part of the heel, twisting a little bit before the move) and then he twists on this more stable edge (instead of smearing/relying on friction with the outer part). But he does twist from his hip while doing the move - pretty textbook too. After that, he really overexaggerated the twist by completely sitting on the heel but he still did it before/while doing the move. So the „straight on“ is only used for the foot placement at the beginning. It’s another (interesting!) way of locking the heel in. But everything upwards of the foot moves rather classically after starting the movement (it has to since you can not not open the hips while doing an open hip movement). He still points his toes down, he still rotated his hip out, he still pulls with the leg in the exact same pattern you would with the outer heel. Only differences are the starting point of the twist is slightly more „straight“ and the edge-locked foot which allows him to pull harder - until it pops more unexpectedly (see the burden example) than with the classic outer edge. I don’t say that his tip here is wrong btw - on the contrary. It’s very useful in some situations - especially for advanced climbers who already know how to do heel hooks properly. It adds variance to their movement arsenal. But I think it’s very misleading for beginners and intermediates because of the way he said it. I immediately thought that this could lead to ppl using their heel hooks less actively/inefficient if they take the „no twist“ advice to their whole body instead of just to the foot placement.
The drop knees feel so incredible. As a tall guy (6'4) with kind of shit finger strength and bad elbows, those drop knees really help me get into those smaller boxes.
This is how you compromise your cardiac health. Don’t have grandchildren, don’t plan to far shead in the future. And when you kick it at 40, 50, 60 it won’t be me doing any mourning. Well not much. It’s the same as Meth. Stressing your little mammalian heart to exhaustion. And like in mountaineering circles, your woman hooks up with your best friend ( so called) buddy , and they say wonderful things about you while having at it… And it’s all your Idea. Climb on:))
![Noob To Max With DRAGON REWORK In Blox Fruits [FULL MOVIE]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/LnBMOinoOvA/mqdefault.jpg)
Watching the dropknee section gave me an idea for a video I would love to see from ya'll: put one of those hangboards you have that measure force onto a normal climbing wall and then add a ton of different foot options below to see how much weight you can actually take off the hands using different techniques like dropknee/heelhooks/etc. Cheers great video :-)
I would love to see some objective data from a video like that.
Lattice please run this experiment!
We've not done exactly this but something similar. Have you seen this video -> ruclips.net/video/UvLeiqBjYM8/видео.html
I'm a simple man, I see Will in a video, I click
First tip is really Will's, you can see on his hardest sends the incredible accuracy on each move, executed to perfection. Nice video
Best tip I heard for "drop knees" is to rename them "drop hips". It's easy to not twist your hip enough and put all the pressure on your knee instead of hip flexor and glutes so people are scared of them
Man I just want to say, I fucking love climbing, so psyched at the minute, probably because the new big depot has opened and the routes are just all fucking majestic.
hell yeah
Yeah, having new sets to try is one helluva drug
will pretending to fall off that orange deadpoint move is hilarious
Great to see Will (=best boulderer) to struggle with a deadpoint move at the gym - great video!
that double heelhook 'bathang' is really impressive, especially because the hold is rather poor
i've tried hanging off my heels before and even though my heelhooks are a lot stronger than my toehooks i never even felt cose to pulling it off whereas a normal bathang is totally doable
maybe i should try again some time...
It's so cool to watch incredibly strong, talented and skillful climbers talk about their knowledge in ways that somehow magically manages to seem useful to even a relative beginner like me. Incredibly useful stuff, even if things like deadpointing on a board is way outside of my capabilities currently 😂
Always here for a Will video - great tips, and consistently the psychedest man alive
Love Will. His energy is just infectious.
I never use the "straight down heel" because i always think i can pull more with the twisted heel. I'm looking forward to experiment with it in my next session.
I think he kinda mislead some ppl (or potentially himself too?) with his wording there. Because when heel hooking, the „twist“ is mainly in the hips (external rotation) - it has to be to stay close to the wall. And will still does this with his style of hooking. He just sometimes uses another part of the shoe, utilizing the shape of the equipment for better „grip“ on the hold which puts him in a slightly different starting position (since he doesn’t need to twist his hips that much. But after establishing this position, he still does the same movement pattern. That’s why he still ends up in the more classical „sit on heel position“ at the end.
You can really see it on the yellow example boulder. He said that he twists after the move but in reality, he just used the straight on heel to lock the heelhook in place (instead of using the outer part of the heel, twisting a little bit before the move) and then he twists on this more stable edge (instead of smearing/relying on friction with the outer part). But he does twist from his hip while doing the move - pretty textbook too. After that, he really overexaggerated the twist by completely sitting on the heel but he still did it before/while doing the move.
So the „straight on“ is only used for the foot placement at the beginning. It’s another (interesting!) way of locking the heel in. But everything upwards of the foot moves rather classically after starting the movement (it has to since you can not not open the hips while doing an open hip movement). He still points his toes down, he still rotated his hip out, he still pulls with the leg in the exact same pattern you would with the outer heel. Only differences are the starting point of the twist is slightly more „straight“ and the edge-locked foot which allows him to pull harder - until it pops more unexpectedly (see the burden example) than with the classic outer edge.
I don’t say that his tip here is wrong btw - on the contrary. It’s very useful in some situations - especially for advanced climbers who already know how to do heel hooks properly. It adds variance to their movement arsenal. But I think it’s very misleading for beginners and intermediates because of the way he said it. I immediately thought that this could lead to ppl using their heel hooks less actively/inefficient if they take the „no twist“ advice to their whole body instead of just to the foot placement.
The drop knees feel so incredible. As a tall guy (6'4) with kind of shit finger strength and bad elbows, those drop knees really help me get into those smaller boxes.
That's what I like about climbing: Everyone has the same issues, the same struggle... just in different grades ;-)
Can you do a video on how to climb open handed/drag? What s&c to do to support this climbing. Thanks bye
double heel hook bat hang is crazy!
Quality stuff
great video :)
Secrets are out, I'm ready for burden of dreams 💪
How do you find dropknees? I would like to learn how to do them, but I don't know how to reconige the oppertunity
I've always used Gresham's Masterclass drop knee warm up (watch?v=2HmQ27XEipg). I'll try adding in your extra hip/torso twist. Thanks
It's a bit strange to see Will indoors 😅
How does one identify a deadpoint move?
I think most moves can be deadpointed. It's just if it's the best choice or not.
Straight heel hook😂 takes so much on my heels. Hurting so much😂
The last 3 moves I’ve gotten stuck, the answer was a drop knee
straight heel hurts my heel bone
Skill issue, unfortunately.
This is how you compromise your cardiac health. Don’t have grandchildren, don’t plan to far shead in the future. And when you kick it at 40, 50, 60 it won’t be me doing any mourning. Well not much. It’s the same as Meth. Stressing your little mammalian heart to exhaustion. And like in mountaineering circles, your woman hooks up with your best friend ( so called) buddy , and they say wonderful things about you while having at it… And it’s all your Idea. Climb on:))
exercise is the same as meth??? 🤣
you good mate?
wat
omg most useful climbing video ever, thanks guys
i love you