Get Stronger Fingers with Less Hang Time *My Proven Method*
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- Опубликовано: 9 июн 2024
- Big thanks to @LatticeTraining for the ongoing training plan
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This is what pete performance looks like.
😂😂
That's a good line for a Pete themed sticker
Weighted shoulder shrugs made a huge difference in my (dummy level) climbing - my scapula feels so much more "stable" after just 3 months and I feel once I grab a hold I have this nice and still surprising stability in my arms.
Dummy level 😭😭💀
Are you doing them with one or two arms? I’ve been doing one arm pull-ups for a while but doing 8 good shrugs with one arm is still hard as hell!
@@V8chump I started from 2 arm shrugs, those I nowadays do with adding 40% of my weight and I will continue to increase. Month ago I added one arm shrugs with little weight added, but I still need to focus on maintaining the proper form. But my end goal is not one arm pull up, since I don't see the use case for it in outdoor climbing and as a small girl I don't have any reasons to practice for it for sake of showing off.
@@climblikeagirlhew! you went from doing 2 arm shrugs + %40 weight to one arm weighted shrugs? Shoulders are so weird. You’d figure doing 2 arm shrugs with +100% body weight would still be easier than doing 1 arm shrugs without any weight added since you don’t have to stabilize and stop yourself from swinging. It’s like bench press. If you use dumbbells in separate hands instead of the bar you’ll do less than 50% of your max weight in either hand because you have to stabilize the weight. For instance if you can bench press 200lbs (using a barbell) you can probably dumbbell press 70-80 in each hand. Figured that same principal would carry over. 2 arm shrugs at +100% weight would be about 70-80% as hard as a bodyweight one arm shrug.
farmer carries help make your body overall more stable especially the shoulders
As ever relentless hard work behind the scenes as we are just seeing a few minutes of the outcome of all that training. Brilliant effort
thanks!
For the lying shoulder rotations. In Bodybuilding its usually called a "pull over" 👌
Thanks for taking us along the way. Shoulder shrugs and shoulder strength in general is sth I work on more.
What’s up, Pete! I’ve been training calisthenics for a few years now in a commercial gym with conventional free weights and can say that my climbing has improved dramatically. “One hand position can improve the others”, 100% I agree. And hey, you’re book “Crack Climbing” has been a huge help. Cheers from Stoney Point in CA!
Good to see you making such improvements pete. Already such a beast climbing its going to be interesting to see how it translates to a hard project
Its funny what you say about how the new shoulders feel after doing those kind of excercises. I'm in the same boat and it feels seriously weird when I get holds and feel stupidly solid on them when I expect for it to be really bad or wobbly.
I've been doing rings work - 360 pulls, ring face pulls etc... and they are really making a difference!
Lattice: "Finger strength is your weakness"
Dead hanging world record holder: "You're damn right, I gotta train harder"
Really inspiring stuff Pete!!!
Not gonna lie, this is the single most eye-opening moment since I've started climbing 3 years ago. I climb 7a, 7a+ and I'm not really much weaker on the fingerboard. But Pete climbs on a completely different level. It's safe to say I've overrated strength a little bit ^^
How much percent of bodyweight can you hang on 20mm for 7s?
I dont really know much about climbing but what else is it about then?
@@magnus882Pulling strength, core, mobility. Technique, tactics, mentality, dedication. Probably some of those😁
You are quite the outlier there though. I climb some 7a+, boulder 7B and I am A LOT weaker on the fingerboard. I max out around 150% bodyweight on 20mm.
@@WyandWombat But then also your bouldering grade and fingerboard strength is way above your lead climbing. Guess the average 7b boulderer is more in the range of a 7c - 8a lead climber.
its great to know this i will definitely be using this to improve my climbing!
Something relatable and translatable to training. ❤
Damnn that thumbnail didn't realise pete had such a crazy physique... Giving Magnus a run for his money
Freaking awesome!!!
Best channel on RUclips
great results!
Really interesting video! I appreciate being able to get a glimpse into what some training protocols are like, especially for a professional climber like yourself! I think the thing I liked the most was being able to see how much of a process it actually is. I think when we go into training programs it can be easy to assume we should see instant gains or whatever else it is, but I actually liked that we saw the biggest takeaway was that your RH evened out and with that, that provides a good baseline for your next phase/block in training. It certainly makes you appreciate that aspect of 'trusting the process' and appreciating it is something that takes time (on top of all of the other projects/climbing/etc. that you are doing). I also agree with the conditioning of the shoulders and such too. Sometimes gains might not be seen in numbers but the overall feeling of stability and consistency is really important.
Thank you as always for the vids! This definitely inspired to look more into my training and introduce some structure (I also struggle with doing things in an organized way so I probably put in a lot of junk mileage...). Cheers!
Appreciate the thoughts and comment 👍 thanks
You are incredible
Here for the mismatched socks, not disappointed
Thanks!
Glad it was useful 👍
Some more useful training bits in next week's video 👌
easy going bloke
Good effort and merci for sharing ;)
What do you think about rest days? How long do you rest after such a session (8x10s with extra weight)?
I climbed a few weeks ago with an 40 years old woman from Poland. She is a 8c climber and she told me that she made a finger strength test when she was a total beginner 10 years ago and she came out with the same finger strength as an 8c climber. She never had training. She was always been able to screw on small crimps like nothing. so she had that already in her genetics what makes me feel a bit of not fair haha.
This just reminded me about one of the vids with Adam Ondra where he said that it seems to him that his finger strength hasn't changed since he was like 13 or something
@@dondoken1353Yeah except adam ondra started climbing at 6 years old, and at 13 years old he already climbed a 9a. Not saying this 40 yr old lady is lying or anything, but perhaps that test was not very accurate. Seems far fetched to me. I'm no expert tho.
@@merikslingerland1293 I mean that was just the finger strength test and we all know that finger strength is not everything. its just one part of climbing and it was her main power.
@@paulheimwehI wonder what she did as her occupation? If she was a beginner 10 years ago, at 30 years old, and had that strength as a beginner… I don’t know many ordinary non-climber women with strong grip let alone that strength 🤣😅
@@dondoken1353Adam has also gained about 60kg and can fit less fingers on each hold now that he’s an adult…. Gotta consider those factors BIG TIME
hi ! Seeing the results i can't help but wonder, if you followed a 2 hand hang protocol, could it be the reason why the weaker hand caught up so much but the other kinda stagnated ? because we tend to equalize the weight on the two hands while hanging, could it be that the hangs where more strenuous for your weaker hand than your stronger, and thus kinda held it back a little ? wouldnt it be preferable to have separate hangs, taking off an the appropriate amount of weight so your stronger hand can keep improving as well ?
it's poorly worded but i hope you get what i mean
I was in a bouldering contest back in 1982(?) at Magnolia Boulders, Santee, California when Tony Yaniro did a first ascent on an extremely overhanging fingercrack. He taped all the toes on one foot as well.
10:08 you’ll have better success doing those off a step, doing it on the floor you end up crimping your body up, you leave weakness at your end range of motion because whenever you train, your crimped up. See if you can hang from anywhere higher, see if you see the difference. I know I notice when I do them that way
Maybe in the future make a summary list (before and after, a written one), is so much easier to follow along. The same goes for the training plans. Other than that, great video. Thank you for sharing.
Watch this weeks video for training plan
ruclips.net/video/-39r--MFctU/видео.html
Besy hype man in climbing! :D Dude actually made u try :D
Just admiring the new Mosquito harness 😍
Mosquito Pro. Really really nice 👌
I wish I had a hypeman for my hangboarding days. Or just anyone to hangboard with, lol
The odd socks 🧦 ❤
Think some people need to realise that the exercises he does have been specially selected by coaches to improve HIS weaknesses and not your weaknesses so they may not be applicable to you. That cavite would be quite important in the video
I've typically always trained much shorter contraction times than 10s, however I also exclusively boulder. Is the longer hang period for a reduced focus on maximum contraction?
Amazing video!
I find it estonishing that you can hang 1 finger mono on 1 arm on the beastmaker 2000(deep mono) yet cant do 4 finger open hand on a 20mm on 1 arm.
Quite interesting
My fingers are so fat i can jam it 😅
It's abit worse than doing a sling mono, so it's actually quite good
@@WideBoyz ok well still the fact that you can hang on 1 finger is very strong! and u trained that probably a lot by doing hard small cracks!
It shows the diference between pulling with your fingerflexors and just hanging by your super strong tendons i guess
I'm here for the thumbnail
I've always been in awe of how massive your hands are. Now they're like soccer goalie gloves o.o
What and where is the project you’re working on, Pete?
Where can I get this trainingscemes?
I don't understand the finger workout, if I do the full 4 fingers , should I do 4 or 8 reps?
Hi do you mind sharing the exact training plan? thanks so much
the video this sunday has much more detail about the full plan, so look out for that
You know what you're saying is true when you start having subtitles on the wall behind you 6:12
Wondering a bit about how to do alpine climbing in south america with no alps available... ;P
Patagonia
I'm 110 kg. I don't feel so bad about barely hanging the Lattice board now
It’s all about edge size and % of body weight pulled. That’s why at the end when they go over it they say he’s pulling 88% of his body weight with 1 hand, instead of just raw KG, because bodyweight changes and skews the data.
Been wondering this for a while now. Is the edge where you test your 1 hand open, half crimp and full crimp also 20mm? I know the max weighted hangs is tested on 20mm, but I don't think I have heard anyone saying the size of the other edge, where critical force etc. is tested.
20mm edge, with 10mm radius. The Lattice rung
I'm only here for the doggo
A graphic with the numbers during the discussion would have been nice.
ah yes, that would have been good. thanks for suggestion.
Damn! Huge hands and fingers 😱
haha, not the first time i've heard that...and most likely not the last
14:54 wtf it's not the lens thats making pete's hand look HUGE in relation to his head?
bro has wreck-it-ralph hands
That’s what pro climbers hands look like. They end up getting really thick fingers. Alex Honnold has baseball mitts for hands too.
It’s probably a result of all the crimping and also skin calcifying on the hands from the abrasive rock when they’re climbing.
I’d like to see a program that aims to improve core strength in practical ways, that actually improves climbing performance. I’m not sure how well front levers, L sits, or planks translate? They seem to be popular as can be with climbers; especially front levers with advanced climbers.
I'm skeptical of front levers and any front/back ab work. From other climbing training vids obliques are king of the abs and it sure feels that way on the wall. Copenhagen planks (adductors so underrated) with hip dips and cossack squats (generate power from stretched leg positions) have helped me a ton and I feel the the strength gains in those muscles directly on most moves. Can't say I've ever failed a move cause I felt too weak in the front abs
The rectus abdominus is most relevant for tight toehooks, however neither the L-sit nor the front lever are ab excercises primarily. When executed properly, the L sit can do a great deal in terms of shoulder stability, the front lever will always stay a lat excercise primarily, but can also be a decent training tool for shoulder stability. Planks are truely problematic though, since they primarily target the abs and the time under tension is too high and the load to low for most of us to reap climbing related benefits.
What frequency did you do? Twice per week, in addition to your regular climbing? You didn't mention that in the video.
Interesting conservative gains for an advanced climber, thanks for the video. Refreshing to see that, versus overhyped videos of beginner gains gaining +10kg/month because they never hangboarded much..
ah yes, so on a hard week:
2 arm hangs, 8 reps. 1 time per week (like shown in video)
1 arm hangs, 6 reps (10-15 sec hangs). 2 times per week
Total - 20 hangs in a week (really focusing on quality, form and intensity)
shoulder exercises
shrugs before every training session
other shoulder exercises 2 times per week
make sure to check out our next video this Sunday, as there is more training info coming on other things I do during the week and how it's all mixed together :)
@@WideBoyz Thanks for the detailed response, may your gains continue and your fingers stay healthy 💪
The 1 arm hangs also weren't mentioned in this video, but from what you just wrote I muster it's also almost max hangs half crimp. So 3 times per week max hangboarding (plus lots of climbing I'm sure), which I think only very advanced climbers can get away with, that's too much load for intermediate climber's fingers😅 unless your climbing is only endurance and no additional bouldering, or some clever combination of hangs+shorter bouldering in one sesh - we'll see
Looking forward to the next video on how you mix everything else together.) I would suggest switching from your terminology of "8 reps" into "8 sets", which is what your Crimpd app and the rest of the community uses. Each set in max hangs consists only of one rep, but still the 3 minute rest is between the sets. For repeaters in the app, you see it has 6 reps in each set, rest 3 minutes between sets, and 6 sets total..
@@Armstrongifyable yes all half crimp, I have trained no other grip type on the fingerboard in 6 months. I obvioulsy do use other grip types when climbing on a board etc, so they are still being worked.
Yes, I should have been saying sets, that is correct.
Question: Why do climbers not train/use the pinky with hangboard stuff? Doesn't it make sense to include the pinky finger in controlled training so it doesn't lag behind the others too much?
I do a mixture of front 3 and back 3 seperately. And also all 4 fingers together
How big are the edges on the first exercises? 10mm?
20mm with 10mm radius i believe. The Lattice edge
For some reason I thought in the conclusion of the initial assessment video, Tom said i don't want you to go away and do a bunch of fingerboarding
the conclusion to the other video was 'don't just go away and hang on the fingerboard extensively, and only that'
I've been mixing (a relatively small amount of) fingerboard, with a lot of other things. the video this coming sunday will explain more about the other training.
When are we ever going to see the Adam Ondra in the cellar video? Rumor has it he has already been there.
@@boogaloo4640 Thank you for the info. Where was that announced?
what app does he use for the timers?
Lattice app
Watching this, I got an uncanny feeling: "Wide Boyz" originated partly out of rehashing that idea of the punky, "1980s, on the dole in someone's Sheffield basement" scene; it was reminicient of Jerry Moffat traversing endlessly at Stoney then going to the US to burn everyone off. Now, it's Pete - sweet and hapless as ever - sponsored by drinks companies with road names and spectacled kids explaining data from a laptop, on behalf of a lucrative company purveying training programmes. I wonder... for all the strength gains... what has been lost!
I'm sure that my climbing would improve ten-fold if I wasn't so distracted by the mis-matched socks :) Oh.. and more dogs in videos please!
dogs...socks...noted, haha
Awesome video! Really interesting to see how shoulder stability translates to stronger grip and climbing. One thing that I'm surprised about is that 20kg weighted hangs on 3 fingers felt hard for you, but i've watched a youtube shorts where you do a 1 finger pull up (ruclips.net/user/shorts_Ad5zFKTiHc). Don't get me wrong, 20kg on 3 fingers is for sure challenging, but it is much easier than 1 finger pull up. As a reference, i'm currently able to hang 15kg on 20mm edge with 3 fingers (i'm a v9/10 climber), but nowhere close to even hanging on 1 finger, so just curious on what you think about it
I'm strong in open hand and on monos/pockets, I always have been. chisel/half crimp i've always lacked. The 3 finger hangs I was doing were half crimp and not open hand, which is why they were much harder for me :)
the strength in different grip positions, can vary massively. it's quite common to be incredibly strong in 1 grip position, but lacking in another, usually due to the fact that when climbing you automatically trend to your naturally strongest grip type
@@WideBoyz yea, that makes total sense. thanks for the reply!
Does anybody know what app Pete used for the countdowns while he was hanging?
Not sure if it's what they use in the center, but the thing that is available to us and supports (at least the lattice side) them is "Crimpd".
It is the New lattice app
lattice app. more on that in sundays video
Is a one arm pull up off a 14mm hangboard edge impressive, using half crimp? I’m more of a solo outdoor climber anymore so I only have a couple people to ask for outside opinions
sounds impressive to me
solo outdoor boulderer 🥹
@@MonkeyBarsEverydaysketchy sketchy! just avoid highballs and have 3 crash pads, you should be solid. Just don’t let your ego get you hurt. Low caves and ceiling problems are your friend👌🏽
@@WideBoyz🙏🏽 high praise coming directly from the horses mouth. Those weighted hangs you did on 19mm are simply insane! I’ll be there one day.
@Wide Boyz one way to blow up your grip strength on pinch or crimp is also to work on your extensors with something like a power web (get the black one). Most people train pinching and squeezing so much and generate an imbalance.
That vertical metal rod which hold the weights together just below you when you're hanging on two fingers looks like a disaster in the making 😅
An interesting trip to A&E: "Noooo - I was just working my finger strength, I fell, and it just went in there!"
@@TheMerryDwarfI've seen these ER Drs. On RUclips too😂
On a different note: anyone a hint on what timer app to use for such training for iPhone?
He's using the Lattice app :)
your clock
The linebreaker app also works.
@@climbrR my clock cannot audibly count me in/out, count the reps and time the breaks etc. Maybe you haven't tried those exercises yourself and your experience is with other types of training?
@chaosengine4597 IntervalTimer
What climbing centre is this
Awesome walls Sheffield
Thumbnail looks like you've photo-shopped your head on Megos's body!
Have you thought about doing Emil´s fingerboard program ? It would be very interesting to see the your results after doing it.
I did think about it in the past. But I'm very happy working with Lattice at the moment 👍
@@WideBoyz in fact the Crimpd app has Emil's protocol now
14:15 oooh big stretch
14:15 who is the little stretchy guy?
whats the app name? (the countdown thing)
Lattice training app
Where’s tom been? He hasn’t been in a wideboyz video for awhile
last videos were crack fest. we had some climbing ones in the pipeline but the weather didn't hold for us. we're filming together in a few weeks again
can we see the making of the thumbnail pls? :D
do you purposely try to not get to muscular? like why dont you do more intensive calisthenics all around?
If I had to have guessed what your weaknesses were, it would never occurred to me, finger strength.
It's all relative right? His fingers were probably still way stronger than the average climber to begin with
I am not so sure about it. I think I could do a 20kg three finger drag and I am far away from Pete climbing wise.
what gym is he in?
Awesome Walls, Sheffield
anyone noticed the mismatched socks lol
Just what we needed, another ag1 add.
Say what you will, there’s a reason they’re everywhere. It’s good shit.
@@kieran1289 raid shadow legends
@@kieran1289not sure about ag1 specifically, but don't confuse a great marketing budget with great product quality.
He needs to make a living. I'll just skip the part if I'm not interested. Pretty easy :)
@@kieran1289it is Not, there is a lot of research around about These Supplements, worst case it gets you cancer if taking it for a Long Time.
Pete the Beast coming soon…!
I'm not sure if I trust these test results. Last time we had a professional looking science man in a proper scientific coat to record these measurements. This new guy looks like he might be a coach and what do they know about the sciency stuff? I wonder if Pete actually got stronger, or these are just measurement errors? 🤔
what gym is this?
Awesome Walls, Sheffield
@@WideBoyz thanks :)
Does anyone know what the timing app is called please?
Crimpd.
nice gym, where is that?
Awesome walls, Sheffield
This whole video seems like a really long commercial of products one after another...
Bro Collab with bear grills
Oppo
What gym is this
Awesome Walls, Sheffield
@@WideBoyzthank you
Finishes bag of doritos*
There never enough Finger strength
That’s a deceiving thumbnail
Pete needs a sock sponsor
Shoulder shrugs while holding 20 kg with your other hands' fingers sound like cheating 😂 Are you sure it's the shrugs that help or is just the holding of the plate with a pinch? 😂
Buy some new socks with the revenue from this comment :)
why don't your socks match?
bourgeois
@@Potti314 I wouldn't say Pete is bourgeois, that's rude
🦍🔥🦍🫡