I'm still waiting for the 2 minute hang challenge on a 2" rotating bar. I'm sure you & Pete could do it, but it would be nice to see you crush it with your insane strength & endurance. Also it would be nice to see other climbers in the climbing gym attempt it also. :)
@@billding6626 Of course I saw the video of Magnus & Pete complete the 2 minute challenge, but it was done on a skinny diameter spinning bar which isn't as hard as a larger 2" diameter bar. I would say the same thing if Magnus did all of his climbing videos climbing up the wall using the easier routes. There is a reason why some hang challeng locations use a 2" diameter spinning bar, because it is almost impossible for everyone that tries. Because Magnus is such a high-level athlete I'm sure that he could do it, but it would be nice to see how easy he could crush the challenge on a 2" diameter spinning bar. :)
Sorry about the knee, Pete. I know that we all loved the collabs with Magnus. I think those are some of his most enjoyable videos. Great video chemistry. I hate that it happened, man. I hope that it won’t prevent you from making more videos with Magnus.
yeh doing the vids with Magnus was really good fun! hopefully we can get a little bit of outdoor climbing in next time. we had planned to do a bit, but the weatehr was so awful we had to gym it for 3 days
@@WideBoyz hey, I hope your knee will heal nicely, when I heard that sound in Magnus' video I was like oh shit sounds like something broke. Good luck mate!
I started watching you and magnus about two weeks ago and y’all motivated me to start working out again. Watching from the North East corner of Texas!!
I've commented elsewhere that there's an enormous difficulty gap between the 20 second L-sit and the 5 second front lever. I can do the 20 second L-sit, but I'm not even close to getting into the front lever--I'm not even able to do some of the exercises (such as a bent-leg front lever) that people do to work into the front lever. Given some of the amazing leavittation crack climbing stuff I've seen you do, there's absolutely no way you and I should be getting the same core score. If there's one improvement I'd make to the test, closing the gap between 6 and 7 for the core segment somehow would be the thing.
That's very true. Bent leg FL seems like the best intermediate exercise. So maybe bin off the 15/20sec L sit and instead have 5/10sec bent knee FL? Could be better (and more conducive to climbing movement) 🤷♂️
10 30 60s should be the L-sit scale... i also wonder how a front lever should convert into good climbing. all those moves that are close to this contain dynamics and/or feet interactions with the wall...
Nice video Pete! After watching you do the test I see we have something in common, I too can touch my nose with my tongue! I wished it would have been my climbing but well.. a skill is a skill!
Mari is super charming. well done on the tests! hope your knee is better, Pete. I had the same thing happen to my knee once a few years back. took little while to heal properly.
Mari is like: "Frontlever? Wait a second and let me grab my heaviest boots." And @Pete; hope your your knee is getting better fast. :/ Even watching the video after that noise was painfull.
thanks, yes knee is getting there :) I replied to some other comments (which are pretty high up on the comment list about the knee situation). It's all very kind of you guys to be asking about my knee, haha! I've had so many people asking I can't keep up with the messages!
"Off width climbing pumps you in your soul!" LOL!! I'm dying!! My partner and I are going to do this test tomorrow!! Thanks Magnus and Pete for getting us psyched!!
Very inspirational in terms of firing me up for training and deeply depressing in terms of what I can actually do at the moment...Guess I have to sign up for that Lattice Training thing :)
It's always good to see your vids. I was hoping to see you do this test, after I saw Magnus do it, and I haven't been decieved! (Talking about him, I saw your replies in other comments about that knee injury. Good to see it's getting better!)
Great video and really nice editing - I must say that Wide Boyz' skills in the area of video production have come a long way an it shows! Thanks for the video and all the best in the New Year!
This high pitched bell is really irritating. When I turn my head I can here it is part of the background music, but just watching the video it sounds like an electrical device somewhere in my room.
5 weeks on from doing it. made good improvements. I was 1 footed climbing for a while, and now i'm back to two foot climbing and controlled bouldering. Its only specific movements i can't do. Got a rehab and exercise program going. should be all good i hope, I just have to not get over excited now i've made good progress intially :) thanks for asking
@@WideBoyz Sorry, english isn't my native language and I have trouble understanding this line: "5 weeks on from doing it." Does this mean it has been 5 weeks since your injury, or that it will take 5 weeks until it's healed?
Very motivating video! I was inspired and tried it out myself. So last spring I climbed my first 7c and after a lot of lockdown strength training, the test says 8a+ for me. Soooo, super psyched for the coming spring!
@@dalivanwyngarden3204 Quite bad :D I was way too motivated and got my shoulders inflamated, resulting in a 4 month break and rehab afterwards. Currently I can climb again, but it‘s a slow process to go get the strength back without getting injured again
@@ShaoSeh1 I‘m sorry to hear that. That happened to me before the lockdown hahah I didn’t really listen to my body and had some injures due to that that couldn’t heal cuz I was continuing climbing, so it was really good for me to had a pause. It was really tough to start slowly again this summer tho :D Keep it up! Hope you get to your old level and better soon :)
Sorry about your knee! Same exact thing happened to me a few months ago and it took quite a while for it to feel normal again. Hope you are feeling well soon.
Wow I got 11 points which comes up at 7a+/5.12a, but the highest I've red pointed was a 6b+/5.11a indoors and that was a strugglefest. Outdoor my max is 6b/5.10d. I do a lot more bouldering than sport climbing though. My max ever bouldering was 6c/v5 indoor, 6b/v3 outdoor. Not sure how boulder grades compare to sport grades, but based on my score I think I need to drop some weight and work on some endurance and technique lol... Hope the knee is alright Pete!
I’m gonna predict 9a+ before watching the rest. Can’t believe that Magnus is 5weeks behind with his vlogs, saw you comment below. Hope your knee is back to 100% soon ;) can’t believe how it happened, didn’t even look like you were straining.
Wide Boyz think he just snuck a cheeky holiday in. Thought u were still in Norway until you posted a new vid. More videos of you two ahead? :D yes, can’t believe we’re still left without gyms for a while yet, lucky to be able to sneak out for a boulder in the gower when it’s dry :) curious, have you climbed at tremadog before? If so did you do Neb direct? Crack climb ;)
Nice to think you’ve done it ;) I did the pitches up to the roof like 10 years ago as it looked cool, realised I’m not a crack climber and how big the roof was and decided to finish with the E1 instead on the left lol.
Would be interesting to see what happens to the actual climbing grade that you can send if you just trained to maxed out the 4 different aspects of the test 🤔
5 weeks on from doing it. made good improvements. I was 1 footed climbing for a while, and now i'm back to two foot climbing and controlled bouldering. Its only specific movements i can't do. Got a rehab and exercise program going. should be all good i hope, I just have to not get over excited now i've made good progress intially :) thanks for asking
@@joaopedroberlim6452 a 100% strength at doing the same type as move as how i injured it is probably 6 months. But I can do a whole load of other stuff and climbing with no problems at all before this. I mean I can climb now, i just can't do deep rock overs or heel hooks on the left side, which means i just have to pull with my arms a bit harder...so in theory i'm actually hoping to come back having got stronger ;) because at the moment I can't technique my way around some things, haha
@@WideBoyz Thats great to hear! i really cringed when i heard those pops in magnus's video. And also the confusion on your face, felt really bad. Anyway, great to hear you are doing well, Cheers from the netherlands!
I have two problems with this test: 1. Hanging (endurance test) with thumb over or under can make a big difference depending how strong your thumb is. Magnus got 4.28 min with thumb over and 4.13 min with thumb under (On a norwegian show). I'm not saying Pete lacks endurance, but it would be interesting to see how he would score with thumb over. 2. To do a front lever is much more depend on you lats and back strength than the strength of your core muscles. If you can do 15 sec of v-sits, your abs are probably strong enough to do 10-15 sec of front lever.
Hey Pete, i really hope you recover your knee quickly! You are a beast and an inspiration! My guess before watching is that you're going to get 8c grade.
what I've learnt from this is just how bad my technique is then. the test being bang on accurate for you while best I've lead it 6c but test said I had strength for 7c. so time to work on movement and mentality I think.
@@MarkusSojakka fair enough if you stick to what you enjoy that's a great way to ensure motivating. But always suggest trying the different aspects of climbing.
nice one! i like that test a lot. for me it showed where i could be if i had better technic and less fear of falling. as my pr onesight and redpoint grade are far below the score from the test showed.
Some thoughts on the test: 1. It’s a proxy for climbing strength but doesn’t account for technique, this was stressed by Magnus in his video 2. Because of 1 it’s probably much more applicable and accurate for advanced level climbers (like you both, and Magnus and the guys who invented the test) 3. I’m a rubbish climber, but have good core strength so did the L-sit for 20 seconds just fine but both hanging exercises crushed me, so my thought is if you have one or two of four where you excel then it is skewing the score and it would give an over inflated score for novices like me
Yes I agree with this :) the test results are only going to show resonable results if you have some basic technique and don't completely max on some areas and fail at others. for exmaple calithenics folks and gymnasts would get much higher grades than they would be able to climb. their finger strength score would be very low which is one of the most important factors in climbing, yet their front lever would be impressive, which is much less important creating a bit of an invalid score
Pete & Magnus have incredible grip/hang strength. Tazio Biondo “The Italian Butterfly” isn’t bad at hanging either! LOL I would like to see if you and other RUclipsrs can do a 2 minute hang challenge using a 2” rotating bar. You & Magnus did a hang challenge video using an easier “Skinny Bar”, but I’d like you & Magnus step-it-up & use a 2” diameter bar than spins like some of the harder Hang Challenges locations have. I’m sure that you & Magnus could do it, but I’d like to see a video showing the difference in difficultly in the bar size for you guys, and Mari too if she can do it. If you can’t figure out how to do the challenge to a 2” diameter bar you could copy my rotating bar setup that I made to practice at home. It is a wood pole the same 2” diameter as 2 minute challenge at Knott’s Berry Farm Amusement Park in CA USA that I go to. It sits on top of my square pullup bar frame & has two U-shaped muffler clamps bolted over the top of the square pullup frame on each side of wood pole on both ends to hold it in place, but still allows it to spin. I got the muffler clamps at an auto parts store and the pole from “Home Depot” home improvement store. The bar only contacts the pullup bar frame on both sides & there is little contact between the bar & tops of the “U shaped” muffler clamps, so not allot of resistance to keep in from spinning. (With ball bearings it would be even harder) A larger diameter bar is more difficult since you can't get your fingers around the bar as much & you can’t place your thumb over your finger to keep the bar from rotating. Using a larger diameter bar means that your forearms must hold your wrist in that position to keep the bar from rotating. It causes your forearms to fatigue quicker due to the wrist/muscle being flexed & since it must support your full body weight for 2 min. Knott’s Berry Farm Amusement Park where I go uses a 2” over-sized spinning bar: Google “Knott's Berry Farm Hang Time - Hang for 120 second” and you will see a 6 year old girl complete the 2 min challenge on a 2” spinning bar, she is amazing! She had to hang from a “false-grip” for 2 min while the bar kept spinning! I’ve seen some adults only last 10-20 seconds. I’ve completed the Knott’s hang challenge many times (I have a yearly pass) and I’ve never seen anyone else complete it while I was there. The video of the 6 year old girl the only other successful attempt that I’ve seen. I saw one teenager fall off the bar with 1 second left! Google “2 minutes hang challenge! (possible?)” to see how most average adults do at the challenge.
That’s to be avoided during training. The full crimp with arched fingers which that thumb involved diverts force through the knuckles and pulley ligaments. Half crimp transmits the force longitudinally through the tendons into the fkexor muscles.
The odd socks are hilarious, and Mari deliberately showed it off while saying nothing other than "proof you are lifting your legs". She was zooming in deliberately.
For beginners and intermediate climbers you have to cap your score at the finger strength test. For example: Before I started climbing I could do a 4 min hang, 5 sec front lever and 150% pull up. My fingers would have only got to level 1... but my score would be a 5.12c or 7b level climber. NOW I can only get to level 2 on the finger test if I cap the rest at 2 (2+2+2+2=8) I get a 5.11 or 6b+ (at best I've done 5.10c but I'm sure better technique could carry me another grade or 2) That's totally realistic for my strength. There's no way I'm climbing 7a routes just because I can do a front lever
I think thats one of the hardest things to stack. Going for a V-Sit would be limited by flexibility. Going for a full front lever from a 20s L-Sit is quite the increase in difficulty especially for your lats. But a high end climber is probably on the way to achieve a front lever. I can hold a tuck FL for about 7s, but thats not limited by my core strength.
Maybe Pete needs to watch Magnus's front lever tutorial to clean up that form 😜 Seems like you could train up to it pretty easily though since you at least held it.
The funny thing is that front level requires more Lat strength than core strength. In addition, the taller you are, the significantly more challenging the exercise typically becomes. I feel like strict, long-level planks would be a better assessment of core strength
MY GUESS BEFORE WATCHING AND 2 YEARS LATE: 8C to 8C+ baby! I think front levers are gonna be hard, 10 sec max. 160% body weight pullup and 5sec hang. 45 minute hang obviously. Right around 30-32 points. EDIT: Yo I was spot on! Also you did a 5sec front lever which gave you 7 points and a total of 32 me boy! Good job to both of you!
I adapted this to use 4 times the Harmonic Mean of the results of the four tests. This penalises climbers that are not balanced in their performance across the tests, e.g: Normal scoring of test: 4 x mean(10,10,1,1)=22 --> 8a Harmonic mean scoring: 4 x harMean(10,10,1,1)=7 --> 6c+ I've no idea of the merit in this, but I 'feel' like a balanced test result should result in a higher predicted grade
Lol ah man. Ya'll had me seriously feeling bad for a second there lol. When you said the weighted pullups were based on how much weight you had strapped on and showed the scale I was over here like "What?! I have to strap on 180 lbs to get 1 point??!?!?! There's no way." Lol phew. Had me worried. Trying to be somewhat in shape over here but that would have been disheartening.
definitely dubious. front levering is a weird one, if I just do it for a few weeks I can get it back reasonably easily, but if i've been off it for a few months its about as ropey as it looked in the vid, haha!
I predict a 9a score ! let's see :) Edit: well I might have been a bit too optimist for your score. By the way I scored 8a and thus I haven't climbed above that grade already (I do 8a in 3 to 6 tries), I feel like I can climb harder routes by just putting more time in redpointing them, That's why I though this test would produce a higher score than what you're capable of now.
This was super fun to watch! I gotta try it now. How long did this take to do time-wise? And how much time did you give yourselves to rest in between? I'm just curious what is considered allowable for resting vs getting too much of a break in between the exercises.
I predict you´ll end up at 8b max - I think the test is pretty tough and you can climb harder as it says because this is just telling how much power you need but not how "smart" you climb. Anyways it´s interesting to do the test and see how far you can push yourself just to get the best result possible!
not sure i could do a 1 arm pull up when i did that test. I can only do them when i've been training them, otherwise there is no hope for me, haha! i do think however when I train my 1 arm pull up it can drastically imporve without really affecting the pull rate of my weighted 2 arm. strange, but i think the way that you engage the muscle set is maybe different from 1 arm to two arm
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20 pts 7C+
15:24 is that Tom's child gates up there? Haha Is he saving them for when there's a Pete junior? 🤣
Yessss been waiting for someone to try this!
You didn't guess
I'm still waiting for the 2 minute hang challenge on a 2" rotating bar. I'm sure you & Pete could do it, but it would be nice to see you crush it with your insane strength & endurance. Also it would be nice to see other climbers in the climbing gym attempt it also. :)
Can you please try this
@@anthonyclimbs3582 Did you watch the video you goon he said in it that magnus has already done it
@@billding6626 Of course I saw the video of Magnus & Pete complete the 2 minute challenge, but it was done on a skinny diameter spinning bar which isn't as hard as a larger 2" diameter bar. I would say the same thing if Magnus did all of his climbing videos climbing up the wall using the easier routes. There is a reason why some hang challeng locations use a 2" diameter spinning bar, because it is almost impossible for everyone that tries. Because Magnus is such a high-level athlete I'm sure that he could do it, but it would be nice to see how easy he could crush the challenge on a 2" diameter spinning bar. :)
Sorry about the knee, Pete. I know that we all loved the collabs with Magnus. I think those are some of his most enjoyable videos. Great video chemistry. I hate that it happened, man. I hope that it won’t prevent you from making more videos with Magnus.
yeh doing the vids with Magnus was really good fun! hopefully we can get a little bit of outdoor climbing in next time. we had planned to do a bit, but the weatehr was so awful we had to gym it for 3 days
@@WideBoyz we’d love some outdoor vids. I know that they don’t always garner a lot of views, but those of us that climb love them
@@WideBoyz hey, I hope your knee will heal nicely, when I heard that sound in Magnus' video I was like oh shit sounds like something broke. Good luck mate!
Next episode should be "Crack Climber vs Climber on Crack", could be interesting I reckon
followed by "climbers vs crackers", an extreme food challenge
Pete is my favorite youtube climber... he's always so genuine and lighthearted (and modest considering the badassery the he puts out there)
I started watching you and magnus about two weeks ago and y’all motivated me to start working out again. Watching from the North East corner of Texas!!
I've commented elsewhere that there's an enormous difficulty gap between the 20 second L-sit and the 5 second front lever. I can do the 20 second L-sit, but I'm not even close to getting into the front lever--I'm not even able to do some of the exercises (such as a bent-leg front lever) that people do to work into the front lever. Given some of the amazing leavittation crack climbing stuff I've seen you do, there's absolutely no way you and I should be getting the same core score. If there's one improvement I'd make to the test, closing the gap between 6 and 7 for the core segment somehow would be the thing.
Front lever is really challenging for the back.The core is involved but in general it's not the limiting factor.
That's very true. Bent leg FL seems like the best intermediate exercise. So maybe bin off the 15/20sec L sit and instead have 5/10sec bent knee FL? Could be better (and more conducive to climbing movement) 🤷♂️
Isn't front lever easier if you're shorter as well?
10 30 60s should be the L-sit scale... i also wonder how a front lever should convert into good climbing. all those moves that are close to this contain dynamics and/or feet interactions with the wall...
Can't you use some kind of rubber band?
Wow, Mari is such a beast!
Hope for a speedy knee recovery, Pete. Cheers.
Nice video Pete! After watching you do the test I see we have something in common, I too can touch my nose with my tongue! I wished it would have been my climbing but well.. a skill is a skill!
I love the idea of a trick test. That’d be fun to watch. Also keep cranking out the content! Been loving it.
you guys should prepare a crack climbing test! Depending on your result you'd know what's your crack climbing grade is!!
Yes, i think we should make one of these up
Yeah, that would be fun
@@WideBoyz This is history in the making
@@WideBoyz Make all them Japanese do the test, then!
@@WideBoyz will one of the tests be without chalk? for european sandstone comparison reasons...
Mari is super charming. well done on the tests! hope your knee is better, Pete. I had the same thing happen to my knee once a few years back. took little while to heal properly.
Mari is like: "Frontlever? Wait a second and let me grab my heaviest boots."
And @Pete; hope your your knee is getting better fast. :/ Even watching the video after that noise was painfull.
thanks, yes knee is getting there :) I replied to some other comments (which are pretty high up on the comment list about the knee situation). It's all very kind of you guys to be asking about my knee, haha! I've had so many people asking I can't keep up with the messages!
@@WideBoyz was about to ask the same.
good to hear its getting better.
Came for the climbing, stayed for the personality’s! 👌🏻 Awesome content!
thank you
"Off width climbing pumps you in your soul!" LOL!! I'm dying!!
My partner and I are going to do this test tomorrow!! Thanks Magnus and Pete for getting us psyched!!
Very inspirational in terms of firing me up for training and deeply depressing in terms of what I can actually do at the moment...Guess I have to sign up for that Lattice Training thing :)
Anybody else read this as "Crack Climber Very Severe 9c" and get very confused at that grading?
Haha yes
haha i hadn't actually thought that, but makes sense. maybe it should have been Crack Climber (H)VS 9c Strength Test
I read this as "Crack Climber Victoria's Secret 9c"
I assumed it was Scottish.
This may be the most banging video on the channel. Edits were supreme. Well done
It's always good to see your vids. I was hoping to see you do this test, after I saw Magnus do it, and I haven't been decieved! (Talking about him, I saw your replies in other comments about that knee injury. Good to see it's getting better!)
Great video and really nice editing - I must say that Wide Boyz' skills in the area of video production have come a long way an it shows!
Thanks for the video and all the best in the New Year!
Definitely try this again when you're feeling more fit, I think you could get 9a, especially if you practice front levers a bit
Hi guys!
We are a small team of beginner climbers tried the test and here are our results:
Misha - level 6c/7a; got 20 points - 7c+
Sasha - level 6a; got 14 points - 7b
Varya - level 6b; got 15 points - 7b+
Oleg - level 6a; got 10 points - 7a
Tanya - level 6a/6a+; got 9 points - 7a
Pasha - level 6c/7a; got 15 points - 7b+
Our conclusion - Technique in rock climbing is definitely the key!
This high pitched bell is really irritating. When I turn my head I can here it is part of the background music, but just watching the video it sounds like an electrical device somewhere in my room.
Its in the video?? It was driving me crazy
I'VE BEEN WAITING FOR A VIDEO LIKE THIS FOR SOOOOO LONG!!!! Yes Pete!!! This is the best video yet!!!!!
How's the knee Pete? ouch!
5 weeks on from doing it. made good improvements. I was 1 footed climbing for a while, and now i'm back to two foot climbing and controlled bouldering. Its only specific movements i can't do. Got a rehab and exercise program going. should be all good i hope, I just have to not get over excited now i've made good progress intially :) thanks for asking
@@WideBoyz I enjoy the videos. Good to hear Ur rehabbing well. Looking forward to seeing you back. PS crack climbing is scary 🤣
@@WideBoyz Sorry, english isn't my native language and I have trouble understanding this line: "5 weeks on from doing it." Does this mean it has been 5 weeks since your injury, or that it will take 5 weeks until it's healed?
@@Xeno87 He had the injury 5 weeks ago. And he has been rehabbing the injury since then
Was the LCL completely torn?
This is the content I needed today. TYSM
Praying for your quick recovery. That crack was real scary to hear.
There is some sort of alarm clock sound in the music. It really grinds my gears
This was edited really well and made the test very easy to understand. I didn't really know what was going on in the Magnus video.
Glad you liked it! thanks
Would love to see Adam Ondra and Alex Megos do the Test!
the test was said to be based on alex megos training in the original
Very motivating video! I was inspired and tried it out myself. So last spring I climbed my first 7c and after a lot of lockdown strength training, the test says 8a+ for me. Soooo, super psyched for the coming spring!
How did it turn out?
@@dalivanwyngarden3204 Quite bad :D I was way too motivated and got my shoulders inflamated, resulting in a 4 month break and rehab afterwards. Currently I can climb again, but it‘s a slow process to go get the strength back without getting injured again
@@ShaoSeh1 I‘m sorry to hear that. That happened to me before the lockdown hahah I didn’t really listen to my body and had some injures due to that that couldn’t heal cuz I was continuing climbing, so it was really good for me to had a pause. It was really tough to start slowly again this summer tho :D
Keep it up! Hope you get to your old level and better soon :)
Turns out I'm overtrained and underskilled. I've got 8a from the test, but my max is 7b.
get on my level! 7c on the test, 6a in reality.
I tested to 7b but I can only climb 5b.
Love your belt Mari :) I have the same :)! Hope you are doing well Pete and I am sure you will go hard again soon, wish you the best.
Sorry about your knee! Same exact thing happened to me a few months ago and it took quite a while for it to feel normal again. Hope you are feeling well soon.
9a for sure! Really hope the knee heals man.. I feel for you
Wow I got 11 points which comes up at 7a+/5.12a, but the highest I've red pointed was a 6b+/5.11a indoors and that was a strugglefest. Outdoor my max is 6b/5.10d. I do a lot more bouldering than sport climbing though. My max ever bouldering was 6c/v5 indoor, 6b/v3 outdoor. Not sure how boulder grades compare to sport grades, but based on my score I think I need to drop some weight and work on some endurance and technique lol...
Hope the knee is alright Pete!
Those 6 minutes must have felt an eternity
I’m gonna predict 9a+ before watching the rest. Can’t believe that Magnus is 5weeks behind with his vlogs, saw you comment below. Hope your knee is back to 100% soon ;) can’t believe how it happened, didn’t even look like you were straining.
you've gotta keep some content in the bank, so you have something to fall back on when all the gyms close, haha
Wide Boyz think he just snuck a cheeky holiday in. Thought u were still in Norway until you posted a new vid. More videos of you two ahead? :D yes, can’t believe we’re still left without gyms for a while yet, lucky to be able to sneak out for a boulder in the gower when it’s dry :) curious, have you climbed at tremadog before? If so did you do Neb direct? Crack climb ;)
@@Ukfreestyler yes climbed at tremadog a whole bunch. And yes done neb direct. That's a good little crack classic 💪
Nice to think you’ve done it ;) I did the pitches up to the roof like 10 years ago as it looked cool, realised I’m not a crack climber and how big the roof was and decided to finish with the E1 instead on the left lol.
Ps: I’m sure you did finger licker E4 too!
Would be interesting to see what happens to the actual climbing grade that you can send if you just trained to maxed out the 4 different aspects of the test 🤔
Great editing 👌
Don't let Tom know you did this instead of the Lattice test, you'll break his heart.
might do the lattice test to see what I come out at, haha!
Pete, hows the knee? hope you doing well man!
5 weeks on from doing it. made good improvements. I was 1 footed climbing for a while, and now i'm back to two foot climbing and controlled bouldering. Its only specific movements i can't do. Got a rehab and exercise program going. should be all good i hope, I just have to not get over excited now i've made good progress intially :) thanks for asking
@@WideBoyz how long until you're at 100%
@@WideBoyz Glad to hear it's going fairly well. Keep being careful about recovery!
@@joaopedroberlim6452 a 100% strength at doing the same type as move as how i injured it is probably 6 months. But I can do a whole load of other stuff and climbing with no problems at all before this. I mean I can climb now, i just can't do deep rock overs or heel hooks on the left side, which means i just have to pull with my arms a bit harder...so in theory i'm actually hoping to come back having got stronger ;) because at the moment I can't technique my way around some things, haha
@@WideBoyz Thats great to hear! i really cringed when i heard those pops in magnus's video. And also the confusion on your face, felt really bad. Anyway, great to hear you are doing well, Cheers from the netherlands!
6min Hang is impressive, but we knew that that's your strenght. You're a fighter
I have two problems with this test:
1. Hanging (endurance test) with thumb over or under can make a big difference depending how strong your thumb is. Magnus got 4.28 min with thumb over and 4.13 min with thumb under (On a norwegian show). I'm not saying Pete lacks endurance, but it would be interesting to see how he would score with thumb over.
2. To do a front lever is much more depend on you lats and back strength than the strength of your core muscles. If you can do 15 sec of v-sits, your abs are probably strong enough to do 10-15 sec of front lever.
Hey Pete, i really hope you recover your knee quickly! You are a beast and an inspiration! My guess before watching is that you're going to get 8c grade.
what I've learnt from this is just how bad my technique is then. the test being bang on accurate for you while best I've lead it 6c but test said I had strength for 7c. so time to work on movement and mentality I think.
My gave 8c (only 3 min hang :( ) and I have never tryed sport climbing
@@MarkusSojakka dam that's a great score tho. Maybe try it out and see how close to that score you can get
@@Madness200Gaming I am not really intrested in sport climbing, but maybe I will try the hardest route in Finland at some point ( 8c+).
@@MarkusSojakka fair enough if you stick to what you enjoy that's a great way to ensure motivating. But always suggest trying the different aspects of climbing.
nice one! i like that test a lot. for me it showed where i could be if i had better technic and less fear of falling. as my pr onesight and redpoint grade are far below the score from the test showed.
Good job, well done 👏
I was way off. Sorry I doubted you sir and such a bummer about the knee. Hope you heel fast!
Some thoughts on the test:
1. It’s a proxy for climbing strength but doesn’t account for technique, this was stressed by Magnus in his video
2. Because of 1 it’s probably much more applicable and accurate for advanced level climbers (like you both, and Magnus and the guys who invented the test)
3. I’m a rubbish climber, but have good core strength so did the L-sit for 20 seconds just fine but both hanging exercises crushed me, so my thought is if you have one or two of four where you excel then it is skewing the score and it would give an over inflated score for novices like me
Yes I agree with this :) the test results are only going to show resonable results if you have some basic technique and don't completely max on some areas and fail at others. for exmaple calithenics folks and gymnasts would get much higher grades than they would be able to climb. their finger strength score would be very low which is one of the most important factors in climbing, yet their front lever would be impressive, which is much less important creating a bit of an invalid score
69kg, oh man I have fat to burn. That was motivational, thanks
Having COVID back in March shaved off 6kg for me. Try that? Please excuse my humour. Couldn't resist
Pete & Magnus have incredible grip/hang strength. Tazio Biondo “The Italian Butterfly” isn’t bad at hanging either! LOL
I would like to see if you and other RUclipsrs can do a 2 minute hang challenge using a 2” rotating bar. You & Magnus did a hang challenge video using an easier “Skinny Bar”, but I’d like you & Magnus step-it-up & use a 2” diameter bar than spins like some of the harder Hang Challenges locations have. I’m sure that you & Magnus could do it, but I’d like to see a video showing the difference in difficultly in the bar size for you guys, and Mari too if she can do it.
If you can’t figure out how to do the challenge to a 2” diameter bar you could copy my rotating bar setup that I made to practice at home. It is a wood pole the same 2” diameter as 2 minute challenge at Knott’s Berry Farm Amusement Park in CA USA that I go to. It sits on top of my square pullup bar frame & has two U-shaped muffler clamps bolted over the top of the square pullup frame on each side of wood pole on both ends to hold it in place, but still allows it to spin. I got the muffler clamps at an auto parts store and the pole from “Home Depot” home improvement store. The bar only contacts the pullup bar frame on both sides & there is little contact between the bar & tops of the “U shaped” muffler clamps, so not allot of resistance to keep in from spinning. (With ball bearings it would be even harder)
A larger diameter bar is more difficult since you can't get your fingers around the bar as much & you can’t place your thumb over your finger to keep the bar from rotating. Using a larger diameter bar means that your forearms must hold your wrist in that position to keep the bar from rotating. It causes your forearms to fatigue quicker due to the wrist/muscle being flexed & since it must support your full body weight for 2 min.
Knott’s Berry Farm Amusement Park where I go uses a 2” over-sized spinning bar:
Google “Knott's Berry Farm Hang Time - Hang for 120 second” and you will see a 6 year old girl complete the 2 min challenge on a 2” spinning bar, she is amazing! She had to hang from a “false-grip” for 2 min while the bar kept spinning! I’ve seen some adults only last 10-20 seconds. I’ve completed the Knott’s hang challenge many times (I have a yearly pass) and I’ve never seen anyone else complete it while I was there. The video of the 6 year old girl the only other successful attempt that I’ve seen. I saw one teenager fall off the bar with 1 second left!
Google “2 minutes hang challenge! (possible?)” to see how most average adults do at the challenge.
8b+, I think pete's technique is better than his strength.
Its such an advantage if you are able to hang with the thumb pressing on the indexfinger. I think that makes a huge differnece
That’s to be avoided during training.
The full crimp with arched fingers which that thumb involved diverts force through the knuckles and pulley ligaments.
Half crimp transmits the force longitudinally through the tendons into the fkexor muscles.
Yes but i ment pete when he was hanging at the bar. Not the crimp
The odd socks are hilarious, and Mari deliberately showed it off while saying nothing other than "proof you are lifting your legs".
She was zooming in deliberately.
OK Pete. I go with 8c+ . I love the very gentle "come on" @ 1' 55" .. and would love to know where all the 9cs are with holds like these ;) Good fun.
Congrats on the scores guys!
Ah yes, the classic british grade of VS 9c, I'd love to see you try the E11 3a sketch test next
For beginners and intermediate climbers you have to cap your score at the finger strength test.
For example: Before I started climbing I could do a 4 min hang, 5 sec front lever and 150% pull up. My fingers would have only got to level 1... but my score would be a 5.12c or 7b level climber.
NOW I can only get to level 2 on the finger test if I cap the rest at 2 (2+2+2+2=8) I get a 5.11 or 6b+ (at best I've done 5.10c but I'm sure better technique could carry me another grade or 2)
That's totally realistic for my strength. There's no way I'm climbing 7a routes just because I can do a front lever
4:26 Nice
That l sit hold to front lever hold is the craziest jump in difficulty.
I think thats one of the hardest things to stack. Going for a V-Sit would be limited by flexibility. Going for a full front lever from a 20s L-Sit is quite the increase in difficulty especially for your lats.
But a high end climber is probably on the way to achieve a front lever. I can hold a tuck FL for about 7s, but thats not limited by my core strength.
Before watching whole vid, I reckon you're going to get a solid 8b+ or more.
Smash it Pete!
Maybe Pete needs to watch Magnus's front lever tutorial to clean up that form 😜 Seems like you could train up to it pretty easily though since you at least held it.
my form was bloody awful, defintiely not acceptable, hahah
Them socks! Love it. 😅
such a huge step up from 20 sec l-hang to 5 sec front lever
Was thinking exactly the same thing
4:26 just commenting for the meme
that intro was hilarious mate
Chest to the bar on the pull ups lad!
"Offwidth is like pumping your soul". Thanks Mari.
based on the grades of the cellar projects i'm gonna predict 7B, that's the hardest cellar project sofar right? :P
7B boulder, 8a route, haha
@@WideBoyz ah, right! my bad :P
8c i think, hope for 9a. Keep up the good Work, love your contributions on all channels. How's the knee? All the best.
knee is getting there. I replied to a few comments high on the comment list about the knee as well. cheer for asking :)
The funny thing is that front level requires more Lat strength than core strength. In addition, the taller you are, the significantly more challenging the exercise typically becomes. I feel like strict, long-level planks would be a better assessment of core strength
i predict 8a+ because skill is way more important then pure strength and I'm guessing you've got a brilliant skills :-)
Cool concept
thanks for the video
Point deduction on the pullup for kipping 😘
Love the vids!
haha, dammit!!
@@WideBoyz ❤
9a+, Pete. I haven't finished the video and I think it's going to tell you that you can climb 9a+
music makes it like a constant alarm clock going off lol
MY GUESS BEFORE WATCHING AND 2 YEARS LATE: 8C to 8C+ baby! I think front levers are gonna be hard, 10 sec max. 160% body weight pullup and 5sec hang. 45 minute hang obviously. Right around 30-32 points.
EDIT: Yo I was spot on! Also you did a 5sec front lever which gave you 7 points and a total of 32 me boy! Good job to both of you!
the beeping sound is killing it
No one can suffer like a crack climber, respect
I predict 8B+ ! Very impressed with the bar hang , youth.
My immediate thought was 9a, and then within seconds you're discounting it. Oh well I'll stick with 9a.
8c, now watching!
I adapted this to use 4 times the Harmonic Mean of the results of the four tests.
This penalises climbers that are not balanced in their performance across the tests, e.g:
Normal scoring of test: 4 x mean(10,10,1,1)=22 --> 8a
Harmonic mean scoring: 4 x harMean(10,10,1,1)=7 --> 6c+
I've no idea of the merit in this, but I 'feel' like a balanced test result should result in a higher predicted grade
Lol ah man. Ya'll had me seriously feeling bad for a second there lol. When you said the weighted pullups were based on how much weight you had strapped on and showed the scale I was over here like "What?! I have to strap on 180 lbs to get 1 point??!?!?! There's no way." Lol phew. Had me worried. Trying to be somewhat in shape over here but that would have been disheartening.
Bruh that 6m hang though
That front lever 5s was OK, that should give you 9a :)
definitely dubious. front levering is a weird one, if I just do it for a few weeks I can get it back reasonably easily, but if i've been off it for a few months its about as ropey as it looked in the vid, haha!
@@WideBoyz that part of the test is not very accurate though. there's a huge gap between 20s L-sit and 5s front lever
I predict a 9a score ! let's see :)
Edit: well I might have been a bit too optimist for your score.
By the way I scored 8a and thus I haven't climbed above that grade already (I do 8a in 3 to 6 tries), I feel like I can climb harder routes by just putting more time in redpointing them, That's why I though this test would produce a higher score than what you're capable of now.
the only thing about the test is the front lever, its about being short, good at wighted pullups and ofc knowing front lever technique
The thumbnail is 10 year old me when my mom says we have to leave the playground
This was super fun to watch! I gotta try it now. How long did this take to do time-wise? And how much time did you give yourselves to rest in between? I'm just curious what is considered allowable for resting vs getting too much of a break in between the exercises.
Took a couple of hours. Take a good rest between exercises. You want two be recovered. Do exercises in the order we do them 👍
I am going to give up climbing for a bit, and just work on the skills in this test. ;)
need a pinch test
seems like you have excellent technique
according to this I have 8a strenght... which is pretty accurate since its a frenc grade which apparently translates to 7a+ font or V7
I predict you´ll end up at 8b max - I think the test is pretty tough and you can climb harder as it says because this is just telling how much power you need but not how "smart" you climb. Anyways it´s interesting to do the test and see how far you can push yourself just to get the best result possible!
9a predict!!! Have high hopes man!
You may score better on the hanging if the bar is higher and you don't have to hold your legs up.
How can Pete do so many one arm pull-ups and only get the same weighted pull-up score as me?
not sure i could do a 1 arm pull up when i did that test. I can only do them when i've been training them, otherwise there is no hope for me, haha!
i do think however when I train my 1 arm pull up it can drastically imporve without really affecting the pull rate of my weighted 2 arm. strange, but i think the way that you engage the muscle set is maybe different from 1 arm to two arm