Silence (9c) - Can the crack be jammed?
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- Опубликовано: 25 июн 2024
- Silence is the hardest rock climb in the world, and seeing as though a very small portion of the crux has a crack on it, we wanted to see if we could find some jams and actually hang on!
Note from Pete:
Just making it clear on a few points right from the beginning :)
I never started the crack from ‘below the crack’, so I have no idea whether the sequence I was using would in fact work when climbing from below. Yes, you can get your hands and feet into the positions I had them in, but whether you can get them into these positions well enough to enable you to execute the crack climbing sequence above, I’ve no idea.
The crack climbing sequence that I used wasn’t simple, it involved thin and technical foot and hand jamming. Secure, but technical and difficult would be my words to describe it.
I hope it’s an alternative sequence that someone strong enough can climb into, use effectively and find useful for a future ascent.
And of course thanks to Adam, for bringing this route to light, sending us some comments and continuing to lead our sport with inspiration for everyone.
Note from Adam:
I really enjoyed watching this video and I was looking forward to when Pete or Tom would finally check it out. Linking the crux (even though there are harder single moves lower down) was jamming my left foot properly, while being super extended holding the slopey hole with right hand down low, and then getting into the holds right underneath the foot jam. From there on, it was all about this massive drop knee, which makes the “crack section” a one mover, instead of technical jamming and making more moves.
I would often get into the position where Pete is starting from, with my foot jam sliding half out and there was no way to drop the knee, because I was in the air before I dropped the knee.
At the same time, if the foot jam stuck perfectly, I would never fall in the drop knee any more. So, I do not think that the new jamming beta would help me because you still need the foot jam in the correct place in order to move your feet higher.
In my point of view, I guess the new beta might be similar difficulty for me (I totally agree I still have a lot to learn about jamming though), but new beta requires wearing flat shoes on both feet (instead of soft downturn shoe on my right) which would definitely make the other sections harder for me.
Great news is that the route is possible without dislocating the knee though, which makes the route much better!
0:00 Silence, can the crack be jammed?
5:00 Climbing
10:05 How difficult is the jamming?
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Not a single scream, that’s what you’re missing Pete
dammit, haha. I'll bring my best scream to the rock next time
Climb 8c above this crux hahahah
I was actually expecting screams lol
And on today's episode: Pete accidentally sends V15
More like... climbs 2 of Adams moves in 5...
@@WideBoyz Lmao Pete's too humble fool doesn't realize he's a beast
Since it seems not many people are reading the description.
*Note from Adam:*
I really enjoyed watching this video and I was looking forward to when Pete or Tom would finally check it out. Linking the crux (even though there are harder single moves lower down) was jamming my left foot properly, while being super extended holding the slopey hole with right hand down low, and then getting into the holds right underneath the foot jam. From there on, it was all about this massive drop knee, which makes the “crack section” a one mover, instead of technical jamming and making more moves.
I would often get into the position where Pete is starting from, with my foot jam sliding half out and there was no way to drop the knee, because I was in the air before I dropped the knee.
At the same time, if the foot jam stuck perfectly, I would never fall in the drop knee any more. So, I do not think that the new jamming beta would help me because you still need the foot jam in the correct place in order to move your feet higher.
In my point of view, I guess the new beta might be similar difficulty for me (I totally agree I still have a lot to learn about jamming though), but new beta requires wearing flat shoes on both feet (instead of soft downturn shoe on my right) which would definitely make the other sections harder for me.
Great news is that the route is possible without dislocating the knee though, which makes the route much better!
Pretty classy of him to respond
Yep, cos he's a ledge :)
@@WideBoyz more of a crimp than a ledge.
Wait adam was dislocating his knee?!
@@OttoIncandenza i think he was just joking around
Legend goes, if you're real quiet in the mornings you can still hear Ondra screaming faintly in the silence
Cant wait for the ondra cellar ep
we're keeping our fingers crossed for something to happen. who knows...
hello storror ! ur the best
hi toby
E
@@WideBoyz still waiting buddy!
A Wide Boyz x Adam Ondra collab would be the best thing we've ever seen, really hope it will happen. "Czech youngster tries Sheffield crack in a basement"
we're keeping our fingers crossed he'll come to the UK in Autumn, then we can lure him in. I reckon he'd be a weapon in the cellar
@@WideBoyz Collab would also mean vice versa could be interesting if you really try to stuff your bodies in the crux of pitch 1 of CHange for example (just for reference: ruclips.net/video/V0uesTSgMys/видео.html ) ;) anyway would love to see it
I think this should be rephrased to "Czech youngster tries crack in a Sheffield basement"
Ondra is 28 or 29. Not quite a youngster innit?
@@WideBoyz don’t keep your fingers crossed. Keep your hands jammed.
yes get him to the cellar!
Spencer McKay we need to get him there. I think he's keen 😉
@@WideBoyz This is the youtube co-lab the world needs right now. what is he doing? training for the Olympics? pfffft he has a whole year for that
@@georgehart1122 crack cellar, then olympics
Sounds wrong
I like how one of the world's best crack climbers is capable of climbing the hardest part of the world's hardest climb, but won't even try the rest. It kind of shows how amazing Ondra to be able to do it all.
Which "worlds best crack climber" are you referring to? Nothing close to that here. I actually dont have any idea what is actually going on in the video other than a very strange attempt to get views while avoiding some very obvious questions any climber would have about what he's doing.
@@go2cloudbase He is obviously referring to Pete, the guy in the video, which is one of the best crack climbers in the world. If you don't know him you know little about crack climbing.
@@go2cloudbase bro what is wrong with you lol “one of the world’s best crack climbers”
@@go2cloudbase strange..
Pete literally wrote the book on crack climbing.
@@go2cloudbase Pete Whittaker (the guy in the video) is one of the best crack climbers around. I don’t get people like you, are you incapable if even using Google before commenting on things you’re wrong about?
It's really odd seeing someone other than Ondra climbing Silence.
..... trying to climb....😅
@@WideBoyz it is so nice of you to respond like this
I liked Adam's comments and the fact you showed him the video already before releasing. Good stuff!
Dusk extra bit of gold getting some comments from Adam
Pete is hilarious, love watching him in any climbing content
😅
“Can we not just go cragging like normal people?” 😂😂😂
classic comment from behind the camera. we went normal cragging the next day.
Cracked me up
As a non native speaker I always wondered whether ‚cragging‘ might be just another term for, well, something else, lol. It kinda sounds like. Seems not.
Cracking to see somebody else trying Silence!
yep, it was fun to try the short 5m section at least :)
HAHAHAAHAH adam is hilarious. "Great news is that the route is possible without dislocating the knee though, which makes the route much better!
"
what a legend!!
I truly hope Adam sees this video and has a chuckle
Danny Swayze Read the description. They showed it to him before releasing it which I like. His comments I liked too
Adam has seen the video before it was released. He enjoyed it and added a nice comment, check out the description 🙂👍
Ah! Mobil RUclips doesn’t show the description, have to use the drop down 😓
Glad he liked it tho.
So cool to see in Stefano's video that Adam watched this and took notes
Fascinating. And Adam's reply is equally interesting.
Yes, it was a little gem to get some comments from Adam as well. very fun :)
When I first saw the title of the video I thought you were just going to try the recreation of the crux that adam made in a climbing gym but you ACTUALLY went there and sent it! very impressed
I didn't go there for this purpose, haha!! but I was there already so felt I couldn't miss a good opportunity to have a cheeky little look :)
I enjoyed this way to much. And the music choice was just icing on the cake
Excellent
"I think he has something to learn with some jamming. I'm just putting it out there."
Some quality lines - nothing less than I expected from Pete! Fantastic vid!
indeed, just putting it out there. letting it simmer. glad you enjoyed the video. thanks for watching
Maybe it’s just me, but I find this comment from Pete a bit off putting? It seems to be said as though, “I am a crack climber & I found what I think is better beta, that adam did not find & it makes it easier. Looks like someone might have something to learn.” When in reality, the beta was already acknowledged and discarded because there were reasons below the moves tried in the video that hindered the ability to perform this sequence.
@@mero8351 Nah it was ok. He acknolowdged Adams superiority in a lot of sequences. Stating that it is the hardest route in the world, talking that he is happy that he can do 1 move of the route and completing every other 9C move is impossible for him. And Adam even said himself that he has to learn a few things about crack climbing which is Petes specialty.
I thought it was hilarious, and also awesome of you to go out there just to try the one move! Even showing the vid to Adam ahead of time
Thanks for the comments in the description, very interesting, especially Adam's take on it
GigglySam Entz yep thank Adam for that one 🙂👍
Seriously impressed Pete, you’re an inspiration to me mate.
Mike 649Foxx thanks 👍
Been waiting years for this! Quality content for sure
Tristan Mayfield thanks 🙂 and thanks for watching.
3:15 The comment of a defeated partner "Could we not just go cragging like normal people do?"
It's a fair point 😅
Great video 👍
I remember watching Adam climbing Silence a few years back... Interesting to see someone else with different techniques and different approach on a section of it.
Congrats! Very entertaining 🤙
Great, thanks for watching.
Blimey, this is pretty impressive! By the way congratulations to Tom for the Langdale loop. But I'm afraid I must challenge him to a loop-off. I recently completed the Krkonoše loop. It is 31.5km of relaxed walking, 5 boulders and a highball, with stops for goulash soup and blueberry ice cream! Tom Randall, I challenge you! May the loopiest looper win.
I'm sure Tom would be up for the challenge, he has some great running foods including caterpillar cakes...
@@WideBoyz lovely😂
I've seen it when came out and rewatch after Stafano's video of the crux. Pete you are a legend! Technique over brute power to solve a problem, the best form of art in climbing in my humble opinion. Respect!
This just confirms how much of a beast Adam is.
Soo much Love in this like.. That's true perspective & good jab on jamming, mate.
Glad you enjoyed it, thanks for watching!!
Super cool that you went out and tried this !!!
had to a least give it a little look, couldn't help myself
Very interesting! I was waiting this since Magnus went to the cellar and you talked about it.
Great video
Glad you liked it!
Such a beautiful place... I need to get my life together and start climbing harder and visiting all these cool spots! So cool to see someone else on Silence. It's one of the weirdest routes I've ever seen
Zeke The Taco Master there is lots of nice climbing at flatanger of all grades.
PROPS FOR TRYING IT! I love seeing people try things that are their next level. Its humbling even as a lower grade climber.
Definitely so fun to try, I felt like a tourist climber...Just out to have a look and fumble some holds 🙂
Yes!!!
I have been waiting for this to happen for almost three years now, and then we get to see that the worlds best crack climber actually has something to teach Adam Ondra. :-)
Otoh, we also get confirmation that the entire climb is simply ridiculous.
I can confirm that the start of the crux did look quite ridiculous, pure bouldery looking moves, where you actually have to hold some poor holds with zero chance of jamming.
Have you ever considered doing the sound effects for the IFSC events commentating next to Charlie Boscoe? I can imagine you just snapping/tsjirping every hand/foot move the athletes make x)
I'll sign that petition
They need some more cracks in those ISFC comps, then I'm ready with the sound effects 😎
I like the added interaction with Adam in the description.
Fascinating! Loved this video. I would be psyched to see you climbing a crack climb with Ondra :)
hopefully in the cellar in Sheffield, we'll see
Silence: "It's not easy, is it?"
no, haha! bloody desperate
Usual massive understatement 😁
You gotta be chuffed with that Pete!!!
Good work!! :)
haha, cheers
Love it! great attitude, cheeky humor!
Kerwin Loukusa thanks 🤙
This is awesome, nice one Pete! I hope it reaches Adam, it would be interesting to hear his take on it
Check the description they have a note from Adam. Some interesting insight on the route and the "new beta" of jamming it.
@@hellowordl9466 oh cool, thanks for pointing that out
Check the description. Adam has seen the video and gave us a nice comment to post with it.
Such a interesting climb to be the hardest on the planet. Reading Adams note in the comment made me think about the type of shoes you’d have to wear to do this beta and how that would make the other sections harder. Man, seems like no matter how you would do it, it’d still be 9c. Truly an example of having to be the best all around climber to send it, not just pulling hard
Yep you have to actually be able to pull hard and climb well it seems for this one.
This really puts into perspective how heinous this problem is.
yep, and I didn't even try the henious bit of the heinous section, haha
JUST
EPIC
!!
The crux comparison shot has a nice touch.
thanks
The camerawoman breaking into a whisper in the middle of a conversation is really something
we've had so many comments about Mari's voice, haha!!
her voice is in high demand
Really nice video, I was laughing hard on the conversations you guys had. It’s still an unsolved mystery for me though how you manage to climb those hard crags. Fantastic! Thought the same after your latest videos with Magnus in Oslo, I am living nearby and as a boulderer already sh*t my pants looking at the roof in Oslo
haha, is the roof crack still up in Oslo Klatresenter? has anyone been up there since? you should get yourself up there to get some sneaky jams in
Wide Boyz I have to admit that I do not know if it is still up. The summer in Norway is too short for indoor climbing 🇳🇴🥶
@@relied0246 haha yes, stay outside for as long as possible!!
Bloody amazing mate!
cheers
Awesome, it feels like a cross over episode!
Daaah Dah!
we're still hoping for a cellar crossover episode ;)
Fantastic!
Glad you like it!
Great job!
Class acts--Pete and Adam both
nice one, thanks. and cheers for watching
Best intro for a long time :D
Matti Peltonen 😉
What is the song that they are humming? So familiar, but i cant remember what is it from. Im so stupid.
@@Borsoo13 eye of the tiger
@@WideBoyz Oh, okay. Of course. Thanks :D
First video I’ve seen where Pete isn’t climbing with the Norwegian chalk monster and it made me realize, he’s a really handsome guy! He’s also good at crack climbing.
your audio quality is completly over the top for a climbing video. Sounds like the best asmr i have ever heard.
What on earth is the equipment you are using?
Really?! Haha. Just a little Zoom h1n for audio. With the big fluffy wind stopper on for outdoors.
Thats got to be the best intro ever
Siiick! Seems as though your top rope solo system is just a gri gri which is a system I’ve been using. Did you solely use the gri gri without any other gear and was it made safe by just having a back up knot ?
Love the quote!!
from Adam? yes nice to get a little comment from the master
This video ticks so many boxes for me it’s crazy
excellent, thanks for watching
Great fight from Pete, nice video and a very lovely audio clear voice from background. Thats something special. If the girlfriend, you re a lucky boy :)
Mad Genin excellent, I worked on getting the audio a bit better after some comments from previous videos 👍
Yes it's Mari (girlfriend) filming.
OK, next time, +5 min bonus with mari please, that is antistress voice therapy :)
Mad Genin 5mins here ruclips.net/video/nbc0ytdo2To/видео.html
Awesome idea! I’ve totally been wondering what that section might look like with more of an in depth look....
thanks, yes it was fun to dangle a bout and give it a try. cheers for watching
A man of the people
haha, shamelessy doing what everyone secretly wants to find out and know
Great video with good humor
Michael Prettl thanks 👍
So how dangerous is doing this with a GriGri? Why are you not clipping the backup knot to your harness in case the GriGri breaks (apparently this has happened).
Michael K I've pretty much done all my top rope, hang dogging, working out sequences, using a gri gri, way back from when I was 16 practicing routes on the grit updated to now. So 13 years without this method, I've never had a problem, cos I've never fallen more than about 1 foot. System seems fine to me 👍
Oh shit! So thats where my hangboard went😅 on the warmup wall in the barn😂
😂
best intro ever seen
😉👊
Flipping loved this Pete. Where were the post screams though?
thanks. yes someone else mentioned the screaming. I think this probably comes if you climb more than 5 moves, haha.
The fact that ondra actually sent this route is ridiculous. I wonder if it will ever even see a repeat.
Dustin it'll see a repeat, but when, who knows 🤷♂️
Excellent video, really wish he would tie a knot after his gri gri though, it was making me super anxious 🤣
that intro is dope! Can you make a full version of this? =D
The eye of the tiger part is damn funny haha
Excellent video but am a bit disappointed that you didn't show Pete dogging up the first half of the route. Was it just a case of sitting on the bolts and stick clipping them all one by one, or did he actually do any of the moves?
aspuzling it's 8b to the beginning of the crux. I climbed that as a route by itself, during the trip. Then I just reached from bolt to bolt through the crux.
Checking out "Crack action" is why we are all here. LET THE CRACKTION BEGIN!
Evan Burgeson someone else mentioned 'Cracktion' need to start using that word
Thanks so much Pete for doing this! Everybody wanted to know how the short section of crack would go for the best crack climbers, and now we know! I think the beta you unlocked will hopefully encourage more people to try Silence! I am hoping we will have a repeat in our lifetime.
How would you compare the difficulty of this small section to the crux on Recovery Drink?
Jose Gutierrez this small section, is more comparable to sections of crack climbs we've done in the desert, I.e. Pure crack climbing. It doesn't really compare to RD at all, that route is a sporty crack which you can climb without much jamming technique if you really wanted to.
@@WideBoyz Thanks for the response and the awesome videos on RD! Maybe this is also a bad comparison since its an endurance climb, but how would the crack beta on Silence stack compare in difficulty to the crux mono spin through and ring lock on the Kraken? EDIT: Not commenting about the grades between the two b.c. Silence (V15) adds difficult boulder moves into the crack, just curious about the pure crack moves.
Do a lot of people go to that cave to climb? Are there 'easier routes' or is it just nails problems everywhere?
hyau23 there are routes at all grades at the same crag. But if think you can probably make the most of the area and best if you're climbing 7a and up. However there are a couple if fantastic 6b's which I did as well, as good as anything else
"It destroys your boots". Charles Cole just did a 360 in his grave, thanks Adidas.
haha
Great!
thanks :)
Cool video! Awesome effort Pete! It's cool to see Adam's response too. Funny as it reminds me of Tom Randall on Enormocast where he said he did try to wind up Adam by suggesting that the crack could be climbed easier.
Anyway, we need more crack climbing in Europe. Also, cracks in gyms everywhere! How cool would that be?
there is still plenty of crack climbing in Europe I think, I guess we just don't have the meccas like Indian Creek for example. There is still plenty to be had both hard and easy :)
Cracks in gyms....we're trying to sort that out for everyone with crack climbing holds. give it a few more years and they'll be an essential hold for every climbing wall ;)
Magnus bought me here😍
Vincent Krause Magnus is the man 👍
Confirms what we have all long suspected. Adam is too thin to be a Wide Boy..
i'm definitely the widest. look at my little chubby cheeks, haha. Tom and Adam are lean beans! they can be the slender gents
How hard route can you climb without jams?
The sheepish assertion at the end :)
ho ho ho...
Say sike right now. Adam ondra in the cellar will be legendary
Great video thanks Pete!
Maybe useful new beta for Stefano if he ever decides to project Silence after Change and the competition 😊
Olmuradiel or Change to Move after Silence...
@@WideBoyz Ahahaha giving the climbing puns 😁
Nice one! We all wanted to know! :D :D
Thanks! 😃
Yunno what silence needs? A stiff 9" offwidth... maybe a 7" ow as well... or just make it all an offwidth
We'd have to transport it to Canyonlands to fit in if it was all offwidth!
Is that Stefano Ghisolfi on Change in the background?
kamil stanik haha no. He wasn't there when I went up this
@@WideBoyz thanks for the reply! Just saw the person in the background climbing and I saw online that he was trying Change, so just jumped to conclusions:D
@@hashiramasenju5001 There were some other very strong and nice Italians there, one was trying Move, but Stefano came afterwards
@@WideBoyz pretty sure i heard Finish in the background. Andy gulsten & co were up there just about that time :D can you confirm this?
badbunnyTUBE yes Andy and Mikkel were there
I was impressed
👍
Did you happen to run into Stefano giasolfi while you were there?
Schmetterling left before he came
I can see where you're going wrong, Adam in his attempt actually starts climbing himself.
At 6:50 I'm fairly sure I heard Andy Gullsten (current Finnish national lead and boulder champion) in the background lol :D
Exactly right 👍
isnt stefano gosolfi in flatanger right now?
Melanie Robertson Yes, projecting Change.
Yes
So cool that a different beta is feasible, it appears that the new beta would likely not change the grade though
i'd be interested to see what the second ascent decides to use. It would be quite pleasing for me to see them jam :) although i'm guessing the probably won't to be honest
Wonder if Stephano uses the wide boyz beta!
Ya piss me man that rocky tune wi crack hands n foot jams🤣🤣😭🤣
You know, this is the first video of silence I've seen with a ground POV. I've never realized that the crux is practically vertical -- that's pretty insane!
Same! I had no idea it was so high off the ground either
Wouldn't it be a lot easier if it was vertical?
Nice video
Thanks
BIG QUESTION!: is it glued or what was it all about?
I've no idea what all that stuff is about and I wasn't paying any attention. Purely focussed on climbing 2m worth of crack
🤔 So, how many more experts do we need for each type of movement to actually send it altogether? 🤯
PolGZ many more, haha. Adam is so good at everything, we'd need an endurance climber, kneebar specialist, v15 fridge hugger, crack climber, and a power endurance enthusiast and to get us to the chains. Anyone find those for us, so we can tag team it 😅
Wide Boyz this comment is gold 😂😂
@@WideBoyz this is turning into the climbing version of Ocean's 11
Good effort
Thanks