Bob, this video saved me so much time. Just what I needed to hook up a new kitchen sink and make the switch to pvc. Now I can get back to practicing my piano and singing for the next gig!
Wow, what a great video. Thanks for the great professionalism in teaching us novice homeowners who want to do the work ourselves how to do it the correct way. I live in WA state and should have known to look for a New Yorker to instruct on the right way to get the job done. Bob, you the man. Wish I could take you to lunch for all the help you gave me. Thanks again. Frank Conley
BTW great tutorial on a valuable subject, many are clueless on the various options in undersink hookups. I was too before I worked in a plumbing department for 6-1/2 years, I got way more than just a paycheck from that job, I learned how to maintain and work on pretty much every aspect of my own house and do it right.
Thanks for the great video. It can be very confusing even for a handy person as there are many ways to do this work and we don't do it every day. Plumbing materials have changed too (PEX, etc) but I have all metal plumbing in my house. I often go to the plumbing supply as they offer valuable advice after I tell them what I want to do and they have never failed me. I replaced a bathroom trap that rotted out with PVC in a similar fashion as you show, connected to a copper drain line with a hubless fitting. I also replaced a tub drain above a garage with a finished ceiling. Only made a 6" x 4" hole to get to it. The hardest part was screwing out the 60 year old pop up drain. I recently replaced a garbage disposal that is smaller than the old one and the drain didn't line up. As a temporary measure, I used a flexible plastic accordion pipe but don't trust those. I later removed it and replaced it with a slip coupling 1 1/2" 90 degree elbow and a PVC tailpiece pipe to the disposer and another PVC pipe to the brass trap. Lots of dry fitting and cutting but no leaks. I tend to error on too long and cut again - too short is worse for sure.
Great video Bob. In Massachusetts we can use 1 1/2 for k sink and lav, 2" after the trap for a lav wet vent and trap adaptor can only be on the house side.
Bobs you are excellent plumber, can you do a video explaining the distance that every stuff could be, from the wall. for example a toilet 12". A P-Trap how far it could be? From the sink, and how many P-Trap can we use in a bathroom. Thank you for all your video, and God Bless you.
+Francisco Garcia Here's the toilet video:ruclips.net/video/kDujiqXeXvY/видео.html. Manufacturers always supply recommended rough in measurements with their fixtures, but they can vary depending on job conditions. One trap per fixture is code here in N.Y.C., distances from the wall to the trap will vary, but as a rule of thumb I'll set my waste lines approx. 15" to 20" off the floor. The waters lines 22" to 25" off the floor. Again that can vary depending on the manufacturers specs. Thanks for watching, Bob.
Great video. I was planning on putting a new vanity set in my bathroom 48” with the sink centered in the middle and the existing trap and 48” vanity is not centered. It is 14” from the wall to the center of the trap. I need to move the trap over 12” to center it. How do I go about doing this?
I am confused about why you attached the trap adapter with a slip fitting inside that pipe at 6:14, because it reduces the inside of the 2" pipe. Doesn't the Uniform Plumbing code forbid doing this? I usually cement the trap adapter to the outside of the PVC pipe.
I don't care for having the trap glued up, real pita if you need to snake it or clear it. To me the trap shouldn't have to be cut out to clear a stoppage. The threaded sch. 40 trap you showed seems like the way to go for maintenance.
I had no idea there was places where it was anything other than tubular 1-1/2" for kitchen and 1-1/4" tubular for lavatory as here in Illinois, though I try and use 1-1/2" for both kitchen and lavatory. Showers are 2" and toilets are either 3" or 4" -- all our traps are usually in the tubular and the heavy schedule 40 starts with a trap adapter at the wall -- all ive ever seen here is a trap adapter from sch. 40 to tubular at the wall and tubular the rest of the way out to the sink drains with the trap being directly under the sink as you say. But im just a DIY guy so im sure theres lots I haven't seen.
Different methods in different parts of the country. In N.Y.C. Kitchen sinks, laundry sinks, washing machine stand- pipes are all 2" diameter. Lavatories are 1 1/2", showers 2", toilets are 3" or 4" I like to get as close as possible to the fixture before converting to tubular. But that's my personal preference
Very helpful information! My bathroom sink P-trap is leaking at the joint where the trap outlet is connected to the drain adapter horizontally directly, at a 45-degree angle without modification. The weird thing is that no leaking occurs when the faucet water is running. Only a few droplets dripped a minute later after the water was off. I replaced the P-trap according to the manufacture, but it's still leaking. I have tried numerous tips to fix it, but none of them worked in my case. What else could cause the leaking? Thank you for your help.
You’re not allowed to use tubular fittings under the sinks where you live? It’s so much simpler and easier to take apart if someone needed to run a cable down the sink.
Yes thank you Bob. I have a situation where the Standing waste is connected to a galvanized trap that connects to the soil line and electrolytic action has corroded the galvanized trap and is leaking where it is joined. I haven't done this before. I am sure I will have to cut it out. I am thinking that I need to use PVC to connect I guess a new brass trap to the soil line or PVC trap with an female adapter.
Do you have a video where the P-trap drains into a floor pipe? In my old house, the previous remodeler put the waste pipe in the floor, and the centerline of the sink drain pipe is almost on top of the floor drain pipe, so there's not enough room for the P-trap. The previous owner forced the pipes into place and that's why I'm looking for suggestions now.
This is a good question. If I'm using a tubular trap I'll some times flip the trap around and connect the tailpiece into the shorter end of the trap. Not necessarily the correct way to do it, but in a pinch, it will work. Extreme cases, open the wall and lower the stub-out!
If it's coming up from the floor (not code here in NYC) you can use an "S" trap amzn.to/2izRC8j. Our kitchen sinks have to be 2" but I know in parts of the country you can use 1 1/2". Check your local codes.
The title says "Sink drain doesnt " line up". Was that suppose to mean its P trap coming from the sink doesn't align over the pipe coming out from the wall? My problem is the what if the sink is "offset" an inch or two to one side from the "line" of the pipe coming in? I tried using one of those "accordion flex tubes" and it worked fine....but over several months got CLOGGED with crap that got "trapped" in the accordion part of the coupling.
You could use an 1 1/2" rough brass waste offset. You can an adjust the distance (offset) depending on where you make the cut. No ribb's to worry about.
Bugs I bought a sink strainer and I having trouble to put it together to a P- trap. can you help me please? I did what you said by buying a bushing and a trap adapter, everything went right until I have to connect the one from the P trap to the sink strainer.
If you can use two 45's or if no room, use a TY and 90 -degree elbow or street elbow. Glue at threaded adapter on the top of the TY and plug it with a threaded plastic plug for future cleanout access.
Found your video searching for a solution. I am in NYC. My kitchen brass p-trap is attached/screwed onto the galvanized 2" nipple coming out of the wall. I can't unscrew the p-trap from the nipple - this thing has been there for over 30 yrs. I'm trying to avoid cutting the nipple. Am I allowed to attach a long sweep 90 to the drain tailpiece, then connect that to the galvanized nipple using various PVC bushings and adapters?
If you're going to leave the trap, sure but check out this video. You can cut off the threads just behind the installed trap and convert to p.v.c. I'll assume you have enough of a nipple coming out of the wall to clamp on to. ruclips.net/video/Wdt4O3uFEtY/видео.html
@@BobsPlumbingVideos Thanks for the reply Bob. I was hoping not to cut the nipple b/c it is in great shape and I'd like to keep the heavy duty brass trap which is similar to the one you show in your video. But if I can't finagle the tailpiece and elbow to fit, that's what I may just have to do. Thanks again!
1.5" & 2" PEX exists, but it's professionally installed stuff for commercial, high volume supply lines, not DWV. Also, the tools needed to expand those sizes of PEX-A aren't priced in the homeowner range. There aren't traps to connect to that size PEX, and you can't just bend it in the radius needed for a trap either. Basically, no, you wouldn't use PEX for drain, only supply.
Bob, this video saved me so much time. Just what I needed to hook up a new kitchen sink and make the switch to pvc. Now I can get back to practicing my piano and singing for the next gig!
Excellent! Glad you found it helpful!
Great video on adapters 😊😊
Thanks for watching
Wow, what a great video. Thanks for the great professionalism in teaching us novice homeowners who want to do the work ourselves how to do it the correct way. I live in WA state and should have known to look for a New Yorker to instruct on the right way to get the job done. Bob, you the man. Wish I could take you to lunch for all the help you gave me. Thanks again. Frank Conley
You're very welcome Frank. Regards, Bob.
Watching Bob put those pipes together reminded of a conductor in front of an orchestra making sure everything worked how it's supposed to.
Your videos are so good. Thank you.
BTW great tutorial on a valuable subject, many are clueless on the various options in undersink hookups. I was too before I worked in a plumbing department for 6-1/2 years, I got way more than just a paycheck from that job, I learned how to maintain and work on pretty much every aspect of my own house and do it right.
Excellent! That's the way it should be....thanks for checking out the video. Regards, Bob.
Fantastic video Bob. This was a great source of information!
Many thanks!
Excellent explanation!!!! Thank you 🙋🏼♀️
Thank you for watching my video👍 Regards, Bob
Thanks for the great video. It can be very confusing even for a handy person as there are many ways to do this work and we don't do it every day. Plumbing materials have changed too (PEX, etc) but I have all metal plumbing in my house. I often go to the plumbing supply as they offer valuable advice after I tell them what I want to do and they have never failed me. I replaced a bathroom trap that rotted out with PVC in a similar fashion as you show, connected to a copper drain line with a hubless fitting. I also replaced a tub drain above a garage with a finished ceiling. Only made a 6" x 4" hole to get to it. The hardest part was screwing out the 60 year old pop up drain. I recently replaced a garbage disposal that is smaller than the old one and the drain didn't line up. As a temporary measure, I used a flexible plastic accordion pipe but don't trust those. I later removed it and replaced it with a slip coupling 1 1/2" 90 degree elbow and a PVC tailpiece pipe to the disposer and another PVC pipe to the brass trap. Lots of dry fitting and cutting but no leaks. I tend to error on too long and cut again - too short is worse for sure.
You're welcome, it's a process and after doing it for close to thirty-eight years I'm still learning. Thanks for checking out the video. Regards, Bob.
Thank you so very much. Best video yet
Awesome knowledge you have shared...once again very informative!
Have a great day..
Lord bless!
Thank you for your kind words, truly appreciated. Bob
There's a whole plethora of fittings you can use to make it work.
That brass trap is pretty neat btw...
Agreed!
Awesome video, thanks.. especially the explanation of how to go from 2" pvc down to 1 1/4", was able to do it myself and it worked out great.
tjocus43 Excellent! Thanks for watching, regards. Bob
Good job Bob. That covers all my questions. Thank You.....
Great! glad to help. Regards, Bob.
dude I was going nuts trying to figure this shit out, your a life saver..great video
+esad beharovic Thanks for watching! HAPPY PLUMBING! Regards, Bob.
Great video Bob. In Massachusetts we can use 1 1/2 for k sink and lav, 2" after the trap for a lav wet vent and trap adaptor can only be on the house side.
Thanks Brian! Here in NYC it's 2" for a kitchen sink and 1 1/2" for lav's and tubs. I appreciate the comments! Regards, Bob.
Great video! Thanks for posting
Your welcome!
Excellent video very detail.
Thany You, I appreciate you checking out the video. Regards, Bob.
Priceless info. Thanks so much.
You're very welcome! Please keep coming back for some great money saving tips. HAPPY PLUMBING!
great options/job thanks so much
+Chris Jeffers You're welcome, thanks for watching!
Excellent video!
+Lars Turner Thank You Lars! My pleasure. Regards. Bob.
Thanks. Very informative!
Thanks Very Much! Have any specials requests? e-mail them to info@bobsplumbingvideos.com and I'll post it to you-tube. HAPPY PLUMBING!
Forgot to mention, yes, here in WA it's 11/2" pipes for kitchen sinks and 1 1/4" for bathrooms sinks.
Bobs you are excellent plumber, can you do a video explaining the distance that every stuff could be, from the wall. for example a toilet 12". A P-Trap how far it could be?
From the sink, and how many P-Trap can we use in a bathroom.
Thank you for all your video, and God Bless you.
+Francisco Garcia Here's the toilet video:ruclips.net/video/kDujiqXeXvY/видео.html. Manufacturers always supply recommended rough in measurements with their fixtures, but they can vary depending on job conditions. One trap per fixture is code here in N.Y.C., distances from the wall to the trap will vary, but as a rule of thumb I'll set my waste lines approx. 15" to 20" off the floor. The waters lines 22" to 25" off the floor. Again that can vary depending on the manufacturers specs. Thanks for watching, Bob.
+BobsPlumbingVideos I see all your video,
Muchas Gracias Querido Bubs.
Great video. I was planning on putting a new vanity set in my bathroom 48” with the sink centered in the middle and the existing trap and 48” vanity is not centered. It is 14” from the wall to the center of the trap. I need to move the trap over 12” to center it. How do I go about doing this?
I am confused about why you attached the trap adapter with a slip fitting inside that pipe at 6:14, because it reduces the inside of the 2" pipe. Doesn't the Uniform Plumbing code forbid doing this? I usually cement the trap adapter to the outside of the PVC pipe.
Thank you!!!! Needed this info.
Thank you for checking out the video! Regards, Bob.
Great video.thanks
You're Welcome! HAPPY PLUMBING!
I don't care for having the trap glued up, real pita if you need to snake it or clear it. To me the trap shouldn't have to be cut out to clear a stoppage. The threaded sch. 40 trap you showed seems like the way to go for maintenance.
Whatever works for you, that's just the way I do it! Regards, Bob.
To each his own, if its working don't fix it-! lol
Absolutely!
I had no idea there was places where it was anything other than tubular 1-1/2" for kitchen and 1-1/4" tubular for lavatory as here in Illinois, though I try and use 1-1/2" for both kitchen and lavatory. Showers are 2" and toilets are either 3" or 4" -- all our traps are usually in the tubular and the heavy schedule 40 starts with a trap adapter at the wall -- all ive ever seen here is a trap adapter from sch. 40 to tubular at the wall and tubular the rest of the way out to the sink drains with the trap being directly under the sink as you say. But im just a DIY guy so im sure theres lots I haven't seen.
Different methods in different parts of the country. In N.Y.C. Kitchen sinks, laundry sinks, washing machine stand- pipes are all 2" diameter. Lavatories are 1 1/2", showers 2", toilets are 3" or 4" I like to get as close as possible to the fixture before converting to tubular. But that's my personal preference
Very helpful information! My bathroom sink P-trap is leaking at the joint where the trap outlet is connected to the drain adapter horizontally directly, at a 45-degree angle without modification. The weird thing is that no leaking occurs when the faucet water is running. Only a few droplets dripped a minute later after the water was off. I replaced the P-trap according to the manufacture, but it's still leaking. I have tried numerous tips to fix it, but none of them worked in my case. What else could cause the leaking? Thank you for your help.
Maybe, this will help? ruclips.net/video/AuKHMyyRu9k/видео.html
nice video. thank q so much
+Kishore Kkd You're welcome and thanks for watching!
and the height from the floor to the center of wall outlet
A minimum of 6"-8" to a max of 19" off the cabinet base. Anywhere in between will work.
You’re not allowed to use tubular fittings under the sinks where you live? It’s so much simpler and easier to take apart if someone needed to run a cable down the sink.
Bob, I know this is off topic, but I would love to see a video on a standing waste for a tub.
I will definitely put that one together, Anything,in particular,you want to know about standing waste and overflows?
Yes thank you Bob. I have a situation where the Standing waste is connected to a galvanized trap that connects to the soil line and electrolytic action has corroded the galvanized trap and is leaking where it is joined. I haven't done this before. I am sure I will have to cut it out. I am thinking that I need to use PVC to connect I guess a new brass trap to the soil line or PVC trap with an female adapter.
Common repair for the plumbers here in Brooklyn! I'll get to work on the video!
i have leaking on the trap adaptor.. Is sipping out slowly. Is chrome bend pipe..
Do you have a video where the P-trap drains into a floor pipe? In my old house, the previous remodeler put the waste pipe in the floor, and the centerline of the sink drain pipe is almost on top of the floor drain pipe, so there's not enough room for the P-trap. The previous owner forced the pipes into place and that's why I'm looking for suggestions now.
Send me some pictures of the situation, I'll take a look. Forward them to - info@robertsessaplumbing.com.
My kitchen sink has offset drains with a garbage disposer. Please make a video on that.
Send me a couple of photos of your situation. info@bobsplumbingvideos.com. Thanks!
BobsPlumbingVideos ok. Will do. Thanks
What's up with the gloves. It is clean work!
Just got use to wearing them! Regards, Bob.
What if stub out pipe is ruffed in is higher than trap.
This is a good question. If I'm using a tubular trap I'll some times flip the trap around and connect the tailpiece into the shorter end of the trap. Not necessarily the correct way to do it, but in a pinch, it will work. Extreme cases, open the wall and lower the stub-out!
what if your pipe come straight up from the floor not the wall?
If it's coming up from the floor (not code here in NYC) you can use an "S" trap amzn.to/2izRC8j. Our kitchen sinks have to be 2" but I know in parts of the country you can use 1 1/2". Check your local codes.
The title says "Sink drain doesnt " line up". Was that suppose to mean its P trap coming from the sink doesn't align over the pipe coming out from the wall? My problem is the what if the sink is "offset" an inch or two to one side from the "line" of the pipe coming in? I tried using one of those "accordion flex tubes" and it worked fine....but over several months got CLOGGED with crap that got "trapped" in the accordion part of the coupling.
You could use an 1 1/2" rough brass waste offset. You can an adjust the distance (offset) depending on where you make the cut. No ribb's to worry about.
It keeps showing how to "line up" in the description of the video yet nothing in the entire video addresses that problem.
Bugs I bought a sink strainer and I having trouble to put it together to a P- trap. can you help me please? I did what you said by buying a bushing and a trap adapter, everything went right until I have to connect the one from the P trap to the sink strainer.
+Francisco Garcia Send me some photos Francisco. Send them to info@bobsplumbingvideos.com.
Any advise about slope towards the waste line?
Thanks.
If you're starting at the sink, you must pitch down toward the drain 1/8"/1/4" per foot. If starting at the drain, you must pitch up toward the sink!
What is the rough in is 'too low'? Is it possible to use two 90s to rise the effective height of the stub out (inside the cabinet)?
If you can use two 45's or if no room, use a TY and 90 -degree elbow or street elbow. Glue at threaded adapter on the top of the TY and plug it with a threaded plastic plug for future cleanout access.
Found your video searching for a solution. I am in NYC. My kitchen brass p-trap is attached/screwed onto the galvanized 2" nipple coming out of the wall. I can't unscrew the p-trap from the nipple - this thing has been there for over 30 yrs. I'm trying to avoid cutting the nipple. Am I allowed to attach a long sweep 90 to the drain tailpiece, then connect that to the galvanized nipple using various PVC bushings and adapters?
If you're going to leave the trap, sure but check out this video. You can cut off the threads just behind the installed trap and convert to p.v.c. I'll assume you have enough of a nipple coming out of the wall to clamp on to. ruclips.net/video/Wdt4O3uFEtY/видео.html
@@BobsPlumbingVideos Thanks for the reply Bob. I was hoping not to cut the nipple b/c it is in great shape and I'd like to keep the heavy duty brass trap which is similar to the one you show in your video. But if I can't finagle the tailpiece and elbow to fit, that's what I may just have to do. Thanks again!
HELP!!!
Why not PEX ?
You can use plastic if you like! No problem!
Pretty sure Moon Pie is right... I think PEX is only for supply lines.
1.5" & 2" PEX exists, but it's professionally installed stuff for commercial, high volume supply lines, not DWV. Also, the tools needed to expand those sizes of PEX-A aren't priced in the homeowner range. There aren't traps to connect to that size PEX, and you can't just bend it in the radius needed for a trap either. Basically, no, you wouldn't use PEX for drain, only supply.
Do not make more videos talking. This is not necessary. Use the characters in moments. And the video says the rest. Thank you for your time
Thanks, Nelson!