Thanks Terry, so many gear-heads get this wrong. If looking for optimal performance, we must have the converter gone through to match the setup 🤷🏻♂️👍🏻
On a side note, I called Hughes about a converter a guy had for sale. They told me do not buy one of our on the shelf converters, you will flash it too high. I suggest calling the converter manufacturer before making a buy, esp a buy 1500 rpm higher than you need rule, that advice would kill the performance of a high torque application
@@doomman700 it’s actually only accurate if true dyno data is known, otherwise, it’s a shot in the dark with guesstimated info. Guarantee the converter will need to be built from trial & error to get it right. I’ve seen countless fellow gear head friends chase converters these past 45 years.
@@ronthepoolstudent to a point I agree. However you are dealing with guys that build converters for a living and have seen a lot of the combinations being built.
The guys at road runner in Phoenix Arizona are awesome, they build my torque converters, and your exactly right, the right torque converter makes the car
I've gotten into so many arguments on the importance of having the right torque convertor and rear axle ratio matched to your engine build. So many people install hot cams in their engine and wonder why their car is slow.
Yes Gary, it’s all about hitting that sweet spot in terms of performance RPM. Optimal launch is dictated per everything that’s included within the power plant, suspension, gearing, car weight, and of course, the converter. A spot on converter makes all the difference in drag racing 👍🏻💪🏻👍🏻
Best money I have spent is on a custom converter and double adjustable shocks. Power doesn't matter until the engine is happy and it hooks to the track.
Amen to that Comet. My 67 has QA-1 adjustable shocks and a four link. I have it set up so no wheelie bars are needed. The car leaves level as it has an anti-roll setup. Also, Gun Lake Performance (Jeff Cuvey) did the back half work. That car is so well put together, it’s super smooth and has never gotten squirrelly out of 326 passes which is a testament to the car’s setup and also the tracks I raced at. The car ran 8.70s @ 152 mph then. Today, the engine puts out 33 more horsepower so it should run low 8.60s. I’m thinking the setup should still be adequate. Thanks for watching and for commenting 👍🏻
was nodding in and out while a few of this gentleman's videos played so I'm not entirely certain everything he's talking about.. But what I can say is that this guy definitely knows his shit. He can work on my gear any day of the weak.
Sorry I’m boring you 🤷🏻♂️ Btw, I’ve built 5 cars for friends through the years and have never charged a dime. They only needed to supply parts and paint. Today, I stick to my own junk.
you are the first person that explain right on the spot what a torque converter means here in the internet,,, there lot of guys saying oh,,, I just install my 3200 stall torque converter,, this is how it runs,,,!! but they do not explain what is the stall for,, thx for your info,, and I have a question ,,! I am building a 2008 corvette Ls3 making 571 crank HP, I like to know if you can help here, looking for a torque converter for it, car wight 3250 lb ,, 3.1 ratio, the guy that built my engine told me to use a 2200 stall, others tell me to use a higher one, so I am confuse here, if you can help please reply to my question ,,, thx,, keep it up,,!!!1
Thanks Oscar and thank you for your question. First off, that 2,200 suggested stall converter is way too low. That number would be more suited for a family type car. My best advice is to call Coan Engineering’s tech support then give them your info. They may also ask for more details. From this info, they will suggest a converter that’ll get you in the ball park. Also, what are your cam specs? I’ll await your reply before giving my personal stall advice. Thanks…
hi, and thx for you reply,, my cam specs are 227/235/ at.050 and 620/605 lift, and I think on the corvette came out with 3.1 ratio, not to sure,, @@ronthepoolstudent
@@oscaresquivel8583 thanks for the numbers Oscar. That cam is a low end torque cam so I’d rely on the converter company to plug in the numbers to see what they recommend. That’s the most accurate way to move forward. Please let me know what they say as I’m very curious. Thanks again 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
Thanks for the videos Ron! Im building a sbc427 for my street/strip 69 Nova. Dart SHP block, SRP Pro pistons, AFR220 65cc heads, Comp custom ground hyd roller cam, comp 1.6 rockers, Johnson lifters, and Smith Bros pushrods. I will eventually be putting it on a dyno but my goal is 600hp at the crank. I just had a guy build me a TH400 with 4L80e direct drum. He also suggested and provided the 10" 3400 stall converter with anti balloon plate from Precision Converters and I was wondering your thoughts on the setup. I am estimating the weight of the car with me in it at about 3575 lb.
That’s awesome Orange Crusher and thanks for subscribing 😊 My initial thoughts on your ten inch converter are this: If the converter is a shelf advertised number and has not been tweaked to fit your combo, I’m willing to bet it will not get you to your rpm range from what you’ve laid out. I’ve been down this road with my a 575 HP 427 I once had in my 69 car. (3,200 lbs w/me in it) I purchase a 4,000 advertised shelf converter and the car bogged in the first sixty foot. The only real way to get close is to send the converter to a reputable converter shop along with your dyno sheet and car setup info. From there, you should be very close to unleashing the full potential your combo has to offer. Hope that helped and thanks for watching/subscribing and for your question OC, let me know if you have more questions 👍🏻😊👍🏻
Great video, Thankyou. I have an 02 silverado 1500, 5.3ls 4l60/65e 3.42 end. For towing, daily driver, what torque converter speed do you recommend? A 1400-1600 or a 1650? Thankyou Again
Thank you Dale for your question. Your question however is actually tough to answer. I recommend contacting Coan Engineering’s technical support. They will ask for more information and provide you with an accurate answer. Imo, the numbers you have provided seem too low. I would be curious to hear back from you, once you’ve reached out to Coan. Thank you once again and please stay in touch 👍🏻
I have a 1965 sbf 289=300 hp at 4,000 rpm. In a 1964 econoline van with a new C-4 . The torque converter I chose is a 10.5 inch 2000/2400. The weight of the can is 3,500lb and the rearend is 3.25 sure trac. I’m changing the cam right now to a roller with roller hydraulic lifters at a 513 lift int/exhaust. Do you think that converter is good for this setup?
To verify William, contact Coan Engineering’s tech support. Run those numbers by their expert, they will recommend a stall number. Tell them you’d like the converter to flash in the rpm range for the cam and package you have.
With my Stock 12 inch, My El Camino would only lay 20 foot lines. I got one of the cheapest 10-inchers from JEGS, ($179 maybe?) and now I can smoke 'em halfway down the block. Cons: If I want to maintain low rpms at highway speed, I need to get up to around 5mph faster than my target speed, then carefully slow back down & feather the throttle.
Very interesting information! What I'm curious about lately is that I know that the weight, gear ratios, engine torque and HP and camshaft selection has a significant influence on torque converter requirements but what I'd like to know is how much influence intake manifold selection has on it. I know that the whole engine package should be matched up to complement each component and what you intend to do with the vehicle like daily driven or street and strip or strictly a strip car but how much of a factor does the intake manifold have overall. I remember when a good friend of mine built a '69 Chevelle back around 1990 or so for more or less a daily driver but also for good street performance. It was a .030 over 350 V-8 with a somewhat mild camshaft, a little lumpy but not much, and he had a Weiand high rise single plane intake put on and a torque converter from a Chevy Vega, a small converter, and of course a stock 350 turbo hydro automatic transmission. I remember he was a bit disappointed in it because it felt mushy on the bottom end, just as it took off from a stand still. The engine rpms seemed to rise up a bit high before the torque converter really dug in but I do remember the car ran nice and smooth, sounded good. Anyway, had he chose to put on say a Edlebrock Performer dual plane intake on it do you think it would have made a significant difference in the drivability or not much? Also, on the other end of the spectrum, if he'd have chose to install say a tall tunnel ram would that have made a significant difference in performance or if the bottom end would seem mushier or about the same. 20 years ago I was studying a lot of the performance builds and parts for hotrod's but over the years I've gotten a bit rusty on some of this kind of info and I don't really have much real world experience in it, mainly just from what others have said and theory so I'd like to hear your input on intake manifold selection and how much it has a factor on torque converter selection if any? Great video also, it's interesting to hear all of the perspectives people have on performance aspects. 👍
Thank you Jeff for your question. I can only tell you that I build/tune my drag engines for optimal intended performance first. I then fine tune on the dyno. From there, I have the converters custom built per dyno outcomes as indicated on the dyno sheet. I give this info along with car and drivetrain information to my converter builder, Coan Engineering. They do a great job of customizing what’s needed. Intakes: As a drag race guy, I’ve always opted for single plane intakes as they compliment a more aggressive cam grind and high flowing cylinder heads for drag racing. I’m not really qualified to talk about dual plane intakes so sorry about that. I might add: I do drive the streets however, but I would not want to build a tightly wound drag engine for distance driving. It all comes down to compromise per the build and what performance one is looking for…street or for the stripe 🤔🤷🏻♂️ Thanks again, I wish I could have helped more.
@@ronthepoolstudent Thanks for the response. I hear what you're saying, you sound like you're well versed in the drag race department which is just a pipe dream for me right now but maybe one of these days, if I ever have the means, I just might delve into it.
Can you tell me what are the brand of the wheels you have on the camaro? Looks like weldwheels but they aren’t they look better hope you can tell me and the model please
Weld Draglite wheels on the 69 and Weld Magnums on the front of the 67. To be truthful on those rears, I don’t know the brand. This being said, within the comments of one of my past videos, someone mentioned the name but that these are no longer available. Also, I would not recommend them anyway as they leak as they are a split type rim. I have to run live rubber tubes for that reason which adds 9 lbs per tire. They came with the car when I purchased it back in 06. NOT A FAN AT ALL. Sorry not to recall the brand Jax 🤷🏻♂️
Where do you race? Michigan here too. I’m working on my bucket list and building a 83 Z28. 450 hp sbc with a 700r4. I noticed a lot of converters are listed as reman. Is that normal?
I’m retired from actual racing now Festerman but I’ve raced at 131 Motorsports Park, Mid Michigan and NMDW. I first raced at Mid Michigan in 1979 (Stanton) as I lived in Rockford at that time and it was closest. As for remanufactured converters, that wouldn’t bother me. When I buy a converter these days, I have it gone through anyway and have it customized as mentioned in this video. This being said, my newest 9” Coan converter (for my 67 car) may or may not be a new piece 🤷🏻♂️ I’m inclined to think not as it was custom built for my setup so they most likely used a core to fit in the components into as needed. Hope that makes sense and thanks for your question. Also, it’s cool you’re building a car. I am curious as to why you decided on a 700R4 though? Thanks 👍🏻
Totally not an issue. I worked at an engine shop and they had a trans guy, but he previously worked in a shop that did exactly that. He said some cutting and welding is required 😃 Yep, that's probably the last frontier for the backyard crew to figure out, how to rebuild one. Pretty much anything else has been hacked so it can be repaired by the little guy, but the torque converter remains elusive 😃
@@MrTheHillfolk I leave the converter science up to the experts. I’m a bit worried about Coan however, I’ve heard their top people left and these were 20+ year veterans in the company.
Really, a 700R4 transmission? An overdrive trans for the track is not really necessary. And a overdrive trans for the street is not happy with big lope cam. I'm not criticizing you, just trying to figure out the advantage of a 700R4 over a power glide, or a4L80 if you need the overdrive.
Shout out to Performance Engineering. We always used them for machine work and I currently have them building me a 509 for my late father's Monte Carlo. 7:45
Hi Jeff, I saw a comment yesterday that you posted asking me to check out a speed shop. I’m not finding it so please give me the name once again if you would, thanks 👍🏻
Once again, sorry to hear about your father Jeff. Thank you as well for sharing his inventory. If I ever need anything, I’ll reach out. Thanks again! Also, subscribed 👍🏻
Great info thank you. I have a new motor but dont have the exact specs. Trying to figure out the converter for it makes it rough without real world experience. 347 stroker with a c4. Est. 400hp/400tq. Street car . 66 mustang. Going with 3.5-3.7 rear end gears. Short of finding a dyno somewhere what would be a safe choice? And do brands matter ? I dont want junk!!! Thanks so much.
Thank you Dave, I appreciate it. Although there are a few great converter companies, i’m a Coan Engineering guy. I’ve been running their converters for many years without issue. My suggestion would be to call the company to discus your package. Their expert will more accurately steer you into the converter that fits your needs and provide pricing. Please let me know what you find out as I’m curious. Thanks again 👍🏻
@ronthepoolstudent so I talked with them this morning. They are going to build me one, and he said the stall would end up around 2600 rpm based on my estimated setup. Great customer service. I dropped your name too👍 Thank you
I’m building mainly a street car 69 Camaro. Full interior. Need to reweigh it but probably 3600+ lbs. have a 498 built waiting for dyno so I can do just what you are saying.
Nice Gary, you’ll be doing it right by going this rout. We can guess, but it’s like hitting the lotto if you nail it this way 🤷🏻♂️ As far as weight, when I built my 69, this was always in the back of my mind. I wanted a custom deluxe interior package and glass widows w/regulators so I needed to trim the fat in other areas. Before this latest steering and brake upgrade, mine was at 3,020 pounds with an iron headed 427. (without me) it should be 2,900ish this go round.
I have jeep grand cherokee wj 4.7 v8, 4 speed , 245 horse power engine , Automatic Suv and with 3.73 Axle gear ratio front dana 30 and rear dana 44 and I am using 17" wheels rims with tyre's 265 width Can you tell and help with type of stall torque converter will be suitable for my engine
I also have a Grand Cherokee. Mine has a 318 that’s stock. To answer your question, sorry, I wouldn’t know. This said, I would contact either Coan Engineering, or any other converter manufacturer. They may be able to take your vehicle information/engine/gear ratio/tire size and compute and give you a more accurate answer. Hope that helps.
I have a 5.7 2015 8 speed dodge charger it’s a DD with a mild street cam and a Procharger making about 500 to the wheels. What stall speed would be best for me or should I stay with the stock converter.
It all depends if the engine is into its power band at launch. The cam grind makes the engine come alive with optimal power during take off if the rpm is correct. If the rpm is too low, the engine will bog. There are several factors that play into converter selection. This being said, you’ll need to provide this info to your converter manufacturer so they can recommend which converter fits your total package. Horsepower alone is not enough info. Car weight, gear ratio along with engine information is needed to more accurately make a determination. My recommendation would be to call a company like Coan Engineering, to speak with one of their experts. They will help square you away. Good luck and let me know how it all plays out. Thank you 👍🏻
@@ronthepoolstudent I am trying to find the cam card but I also have 8 speed 3.06 gears Procharger 6.5 lbs of boost .500whp car is like 4,000 plus lbs. if I am not mistaken stock converter flash’s 1800-2000 but not sure.
Would a 3200 to 3500 stall be good for a 383 stroker with 5 to 6hhp ,it's in a 1984 chevy Silverado c/10 short bed ,with a 350 turbo C /converter lock 411 gears posi?.
My gut says you’ll need around a 4,500-5k to net your desired flash rpm Allen. To be sure, give Coan Engineering a call and run the numbers by them. My feeling is that 3,200-3,500 will be too tight.
@@ronthepoolstudent ok it takes off well I think I need a little more sir or maybe timing,I'll have my mechanic check ✔️ it out before I put it up for the winter thank you again sir .
if i may ask a question about my not off the shelf converter but there wasn't any dyno sheets exchanged when i bought it. just few msg back and forth telling the builder vehicle weight swapped motor and a list of mods to that motor and i think he also asked for rear gear if memory serves me correct, tho it often dose not lol. witch is a S10 3k lbs 6.0L with 4l80 swapped out of 05 express chev van cam'ed springs saft mnt roll rocks LS3 flat topps turbo charged. but getting back to my prob dumb question because i am a circle tack guy trying my hand at going straight auto is totally alien to me. sorry side tracked again. k my question is when i dropped my gear in my stock rear end down to 4.56 the stall would over shoot by almost 1000ish well Did anyways the half dozen passed or so i got tell Pop! went the 10 bolt. so i built a custom narrowed 8.8 witch is in it now witch i didn't mess with gears just left the 3.27 that where in it alone witch now it no longer overs it is smack on the converters advertised stall speed. so if again want to do lower gears in the new 8.8 will i need to send it out to get worked on? or should i of sent it out back when i was over shooting, just went so quickly focus from converter to a new rear end plans after the pop. what would be your next move if you where in my shoes?
This is why a dyno session is so important Jesse. Chasing your tail takes lots of time and money. First off, you’ll need to install a data acquisition system that measures rpm. This will tell you your stall at the hit, at the shift point/points and at the stripe. From this data, you can then share it with your converter builder along with the other information they require. This will save you from guessing. Good luck 👍🏻🍀 PS, Innovate makes an affordable data acquisition system. It’s a daisy chain setup which allows you to add additional data point measurements for other areas such as driveshaft speed, oil pressure etc etc etc…
That’s not an easy answer CC. The safest way would be to contact a reputable converter company like Coan Engineering to ask for guidance. They’ll ask questions pertaining to your power plant and vehicle, then give a recommendation of size. That’s my best answer and I wish you luck.
@@ronthepoolstudent nah that still doesn't answer the question. Some of us would like to know why one is better than the other in different situations or just how they behave. Picking parts in a street car is all about compromise. So it's never as simple as picking the right part for the fastest ET and I have yet to have an expert pick the right part for my cars in the last 20 years. Every single time I've ended up swapping there suggestion a few months later for what they talked me out of and the part they talked me out of worked better for what I wanted.
@@nashvilleoutlaw Converter builds are science. I’ve had them built per dyno sheet and track performance based on data logging. Generally, I’ve had great success with Coan. This being said, it may require a second trip back to them for a tweak to catch that performance one is striving for. The bottom line; it’s up to the person to make the decisions that best suit their needs.
Yes James, the car weight is currently 2,700. It used to weigh 2,611 before I added a factory grill and headlights for street driving. Also, I upgraded to a Dart Big M block from a GM four bolt which added weight. Also upgraded to a Reid super case for the glide. The chassis is Chromoly but I still have the original front frame section in place. Front down bars are chromoly as well. All glass has been replaced with Lexan and there are no regulators. Breaks are Wilwood four piston drag breaks.
@@ronsmusclecargarage4060 Well thats superlight! I'm envious! My 71 Mustang weighs 3500 w/o driver and thats using a fiberglass hood and aluminum intake. I'm shaving some lbs as we speak. I had Aerospace Components brakes before but they are junk and using Baer now. So same there. New lithium starter battery replacing heavy Optima. New mini starter possibly. New aluminum timing cover. Maybe the carb gets updated from the old Holley but thats one of those things that needs to run right and as you can tell its not a light race car, but more of a cruiser. Cheers
@jamesmedina2062 this car runs in the NHRA Super Pro class James. Many door cars in this class run in the low nines while fewer run in the eights. Since the car is light, this did help it run consistently in the 8.70s on motor. (new engine build 8.60s) Also, the lighter weight is easier on drive train components. Another benefit; the 568 can run a less aggressive 280/291 @ .050 cam, which is great for street use as well. There are many benefits to running a light car for sure. Good luck shedding the weight, it’ll help in many ways 👍🏻
@@ronsmusclecargarage4060 Thanks man! Good luck too!! Regarding cams, is yours a solid roller?? Who is making good cams these days? Mine is a 215/215 at 0.050(hydraulic roller) but may want to run something a little healthier. My 383 stroker has 10:1 static compression. Oh yeah I use iron 351C Aussie heads but if I used aluminum I would lose some weight. Still 3300 though
That’s a tough one Willie. You’ll definitely need to reach out to Coan Engineering. The horsepower to weight is rather low so they’ll have to answer that question.
They are fun that’s for sure Nick 👍🏻 To be competitive in either Top ET or Super Pro however, ya gotta have an auto trans with rpm shifter. We need tight packages to make it to the winner’s circle. In many cases, the package needs to be within thousandths of a second. (.001-.006)
Based on my personal experience you are spot on. Great info to share. The right converter makes such a difference.
Thanks Terry, so many gear-heads get this wrong.
If looking for optimal performance, we must have the converter gone through to match the setup 🤷🏻♂️👍🏻
Coe-Ann is one of the best convertor made. I been running Dave and now Jasons stuff 4 decades now. Never left me stranded.
Thank you Dooman 👍🏻
On a side note, I called Hughes about a converter a guy had for sale. They told me do not buy one of our on the shelf converters, you will flash it too high. I suggest calling the converter manufacturer before making a buy, esp a buy 1500 rpm higher than you need rule, that advice would kill the performance of a high torque application
@@doomman700 it’s actually only accurate if true dyno data is known, otherwise, it’s a shot in the dark with guesstimated info. Guarantee the converter will need to be built from trial & error to get it right.
I’ve seen countless fellow gear head friends chase converters these past 45 years.
@@ronthepoolstudent to a point I agree. However you are dealing with guys that build converters for a living and have seen a lot of the combinations being built.
The guys at road runner in Phoenix Arizona are awesome, they build my torque converters, and your exactly right, the right torque converter makes the car
Good to know Barn House and thanks.
The converter is key for sure.
Thanks also for watching and for your comment 👍🏻😊👍🏻
I've gotten into so many arguments on the importance of having the right torque convertor and rear axle ratio matched to your engine build. So many people install hot cams in their engine and wonder why their car is slow.
Lack of knowledge basically. In time, most will learn through the school of hard knocks.
Going from a 3000 stall B and M converter to a 2000 stall B and M made a big difference.
Now I go forward off the line instead of burning the tires.
Yes Gary, it’s all about hitting that sweet spot in terms of performance RPM.
Optimal launch is dictated per everything that’s included within the power plant, suspension, gearing, car weight, and of course, the converter.
A spot on converter makes all the difference in drag racing 👍🏻💪🏻👍🏻
Best money I have spent is on a custom converter and double adjustable shocks. Power doesn't matter until the engine is happy and it hooks to the track.
Amen to that Comet. My 67 has QA-1 adjustable shocks and a four link. I have it set up so no wheelie bars are needed. The car leaves level as it has an anti-roll setup. Also, Gun Lake Performance (Jeff Cuvey) did the back half work. That car is so well put together, it’s super smooth and has never gotten squirrelly out of 326 passes which is a testament to the car’s setup and also the tracks I raced at. The car ran 8.70s @ 152 mph then. Today, the engine puts out 33 more horsepower so it should run low 8.60s. I’m thinking the setup should still be adequate.
Thanks for watching and for commenting 👍🏻
was nodding in and out while a few of this gentleman's videos played so I'm not entirely certain everything he's talking about.. But what I can say is that this guy definitely knows his shit. He can work on my gear any day of the weak.
Sorry I’m boring you 🤷🏻♂️
Btw, I’ve built 5 cars for friends through the years and have never charged a dime. They only needed to supply parts and paint.
Today, I stick to my own junk.
New subscriber!!🔥🔥🔥🔥
Thank you PF, I appreciate the support.
👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
I'm into Mopar (old school) but the same thing applies , thanks for the info
That’s correct Dina and you’re welcome. Thanks for reaching out.
Btw, I used to own then sold a 67 Charger.
you are the first person that explain right on the spot what a torque converter means here in the internet,,, there lot of guys saying oh,,, I just install my 3200 stall torque converter,, this is how it runs,,,!! but they do not explain what is the stall for,, thx for your info,, and I have a question ,,! I am building a 2008 corvette Ls3 making 571 crank HP, I like to know if you can help here, looking for a torque converter for it, car wight 3250 lb ,, 3.1 ratio, the guy that built my engine told me to use a 2200 stall, others tell me to use a higher one, so I am confuse here, if you can help please reply to my question ,,, thx,, keep it up,,!!!1
Thanks Oscar and thank you for your question. First off, that 2,200 suggested stall converter is way too low. That number would be more suited for a family type car.
My best advice is to call Coan Engineering’s tech support then give them your info. They may also ask for more details. From this info, they will suggest a converter that’ll get you in the ball park.
Also, what are your cam specs?
I’ll await your reply before giving my personal stall advice.
Thanks…
hi, and thx for you reply,, my cam specs are 227/235/ at.050 and 620/605 lift, and I think on the corvette came out with 3.1 ratio, not to sure,, @@ronthepoolstudent
@@oscaresquivel8583 thanks for the numbers Oscar.
That cam is a low end torque cam so I’d rely on the converter company to plug in the numbers to see what they recommend.
That’s the most accurate way to move forward.
Please let me know what they say as I’m very curious.
Thanks again 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
Thanks for the videos Ron! Im building a sbc427 for my street/strip 69 Nova. Dart SHP block, SRP Pro pistons, AFR220 65cc heads, Comp custom ground hyd roller cam, comp 1.6 rockers, Johnson lifters, and Smith Bros pushrods. I will eventually be putting it on a dyno but my goal is 600hp at the crank. I just had a guy build me a TH400 with 4L80e direct drum. He also suggested and provided the 10" 3400 stall converter with anti balloon plate from Precision Converters and I was wondering your thoughts on the setup. I am estimating the weight of the car with me in it at about 3575 lb.
That’s awesome Orange Crusher and thanks for subscribing 😊
My initial thoughts on your ten inch converter are this:
If the converter is a shelf advertised number and has not been tweaked to fit your combo, I’m willing to bet it will not get you to your rpm range from what you’ve laid out.
I’ve been down this road with my a 575 HP 427 I once had in my 69 car. (3,200 lbs w/me in it)
I purchase a 4,000 advertised shelf converter and the car bogged in the first sixty foot.
The only real way to get close is to send the converter to a reputable converter shop along with your dyno sheet and car setup info.
From there, you should be very close to unleashing the full potential your combo has to offer.
Hope that helped and thanks for watching/subscribing and for your question OC,
let me know if you have more questions 👍🏻😊👍🏻
Great video, Thankyou. I have an 02 silverado 1500, 5.3ls 4l60/65e 3.42 end. For towing, daily driver, what torque converter speed do you recommend? A 1400-1600 or a 1650? Thankyou Again
Thank you Dale for your question. Your question however is actually tough to answer.
I recommend contacting Coan Engineering’s technical support. They will ask for more information and provide you with an accurate answer.
Imo, the numbers you have provided seem too low. I would be curious to hear back from you, once you’ve reached out to Coan.
Thank you once again and please stay in touch 👍🏻
I have a 1965 sbf 289=300 hp at 4,000 rpm. In a 1964 econoline van with a new C-4 . The torque converter I chose is a 10.5 inch 2000/2400. The weight of the can is 3,500lb and the rearend is 3.25 sure trac. I’m changing the cam right now to a roller with roller hydraulic lifters at a 513 lift int/exhaust. Do you think that converter is good for this setup?
To verify William, contact Coan Engineering’s tech support.
Run those numbers by their expert, they will recommend a stall number. Tell them you’d like the converter to flash in the rpm range for the cam and package you have.
With my Stock 12 inch, My El Camino would only lay 20 foot lines. I got one of the cheapest 10-inchers from JEGS, ($179 maybe?) and now I can smoke 'em halfway down the block. Cons: If I want to maintain low rpms at highway speed, I need to get up to around 5mph faster than my target speed, then carefully slow back down & feather the throttle.
The correct converter allows the engine to cam within its power range 👍🏻
Very interesting information!
What I'm curious about lately is that I know that the weight, gear ratios, engine torque and HP and camshaft selection has a significant influence on torque converter requirements but what I'd like to know is how much influence intake manifold selection has on it. I know that the whole engine package should be matched up to complement each component and what you intend to do with the vehicle like daily driven or street and strip or strictly a strip car but how much of a factor does the intake manifold have overall. I remember when a good friend of mine built a '69 Chevelle back around 1990 or so for more or less a daily driver but also for good street performance. It was a .030 over 350 V-8 with a somewhat mild camshaft, a little lumpy but not much, and he had a Weiand high rise single plane intake put on and a torque converter from a Chevy Vega, a small converter, and of course a stock 350 turbo hydro automatic transmission. I remember he was a bit disappointed in it because it felt mushy on the bottom end, just as it took off from a stand still. The engine rpms seemed to rise up a bit high before the torque converter really dug in but I do remember the car ran nice and smooth, sounded good. Anyway, had he chose to put on say a Edlebrock Performer dual plane intake on it do you think it would have made a significant difference in the drivability or not much? Also, on the other end of the spectrum, if he'd have chose to install say a tall tunnel ram would that have made a significant difference in performance or if the bottom end would seem mushier or about the same. 20 years ago I was studying a lot of the performance builds and parts for hotrod's but over the years I've gotten a bit rusty on some of this kind of info and I don't really have much real world experience in it, mainly just from what others have said and theory so I'd like to hear your input on intake manifold selection and how much it has a factor on torque converter selection if any?
Great video also, it's interesting to hear all of the perspectives people have on performance aspects. 👍
Thank you Jeff for your question. I can only tell you that I build/tune my drag engines for optimal intended performance first. I then fine tune on the dyno.
From there, I have the converters custom built per dyno outcomes as indicated on the dyno sheet. I give this info along with car and drivetrain information to my converter builder, Coan Engineering.
They do a great job of customizing what’s needed.
Intakes:
As a drag race guy, I’ve always opted for single plane intakes as they compliment a more aggressive cam grind and high flowing cylinder heads for drag racing.
I’m not really qualified to talk about dual plane intakes so sorry about that.
I might add:
I do drive the streets however, but I would not want to build a tightly wound drag engine for distance driving.
It all comes down to compromise per the build and what performance one is looking for…street or for the stripe 🤔🤷🏻♂️
Thanks again, I wish I could have helped more.
@@ronthepoolstudent Thanks for the response.
I hear what you're saying, you sound like you're well versed in the drag race department which is just a pipe dream for me right now but maybe one of these days, if I ever have the means, I just might delve into it.
@@bodeine454 thanks Jeff, it has gotten very expensive which is why the sport has slacked off imo.
Can you tell me what are the brand of the wheels you have on the camaro? Looks like weldwheels but they aren’t they look better hope you can tell me and the model please
Weld Draglite wheels on the 69 and Weld Magnums on the front of the 67. To be truthful on those rears, I don’t know the brand. This being said, within the comments of one of my past videos, someone mentioned the name but that these are no longer available. Also, I would not recommend them anyway as they leak as they are a split type rim. I have to run live rubber tubes for that reason which adds 9 lbs per tire.
They came with the car when I purchased it back in 06.
NOT A FAN AT ALL.
Sorry not to recall the brand Jax 🤷🏻♂️
Where do you race? Michigan here too. I’m working on my bucket list and building a 83 Z28. 450 hp sbc with a 700r4.
I noticed a lot of converters are listed as reman. Is that normal?
I’m retired from actual racing now Festerman but I’ve raced at 131 Motorsports Park, Mid Michigan and NMDW.
I first raced at Mid Michigan in 1979 (Stanton) as I lived in Rockford at that time and it was closest.
As for remanufactured converters, that wouldn’t bother me.
When I buy a converter these days, I have it gone through anyway and have it customized as mentioned in this video.
This being said, my newest 9” Coan converter (for my 67 car) may or may not be a new piece 🤷🏻♂️ I’m inclined to think not as it was custom built for my setup so they most likely used a core to fit in the components into as needed.
Hope that makes sense and thanks for your question.
Also, it’s cool you’re building a car. I am curious as to why you decided on a 700R4 though?
Thanks 👍🏻
Totally not an issue.
I worked at an engine shop and they had a trans guy, but he previously worked in a shop that did exactly that.
He said some cutting and welding is required 😃
Yep, that's probably the last frontier for the backyard crew to figure out, how to rebuild one.
Pretty much anything else has been hacked so it can be repaired by the little guy, but the torque converter remains elusive 😃
@@MrTheHillfolk I leave the converter science up to the experts.
I’m a bit worried about Coan however, I’ve heard their top people left and these were 20+ year veterans in the company.
Really, a 700R4 transmission? An overdrive trans for the track is not really necessary. And a overdrive trans for the street is not happy with big lope cam. I'm not criticizing you, just trying to figure out the advantage of a 700R4 over a power glide, or a4L80 if you need the overdrive.
Shout out to Performance Engineering. We always used them for machine work and I currently have them building me a 509 for my late father's Monte Carlo. 7:45
They are truly the best imo Jeff
👍🏻😊👍🏻
Thank you for subscribing Jeff.
👍🏻😊👍🏻
Hi Jeff, I saw a comment yesterday that you posted asking me to check out a speed shop. I’m not finding it so please give me the name once again if you would, thanks 👍🏻
@@etenterprises ahh, gotcha 👍🏻
Will look now…
Once again, sorry to hear about your father Jeff.
Thank you as well for sharing his inventory. If I ever need anything, I’ll reach out.
Thanks again!
Also, subscribed 👍🏻
Great info thank you. I have a new motor but dont have the exact specs. Trying to figure out the converter for it makes it rough without real world experience.
347 stroker with a c4.
Est. 400hp/400tq.
Street car . 66 mustang. Going with 3.5-3.7 rear end gears.
Short of finding a dyno somewhere what would be a safe choice? And do brands matter ? I dont want junk!!! Thanks so much.
Thank you Dave, I appreciate it.
Although there are a few great converter companies, i’m a Coan Engineering guy.
I’ve been running their converters for many years without issue.
My suggestion would be to call the company to discus your package. Their expert will more accurately steer you into the converter that fits your needs and provide pricing.
Please let me know what you find out as I’m curious.
Thanks again 👍🏻
@ronthepoolstudent so I talked with them this morning. They are going to build me one, and he said the stall would end up around 2600 rpm based on my estimated setup.
Great customer service. I dropped your name too👍 Thank you
@@DaveIrish66 glad it worked out Dave, I’m sure you’ll be happy with their converter.
Thanks again for reaching out 👍🏻
I’m building mainly a street car 69 Camaro. Full interior. Need to reweigh it but probably 3600+ lbs. have a 498 built waiting for dyno so I can do just what you are saying.
Nice Gary, you’ll be doing it right by going this rout.
We can guess, but it’s like hitting the lotto if you nail it this way 🤷🏻♂️
As far as weight, when I built my 69, this was always in the back of my mind. I wanted a custom deluxe interior package and glass widows w/regulators so I needed to trim the fat in other areas. Before this latest steering and brake upgrade, mine was at 3,020 pounds with an iron headed 427. (without me)
it should be 2,900ish this go round.
I have jeep grand cherokee wj 4.7 v8, 4 speed , 245 horse power engine , Automatic Suv and with 3.73 Axle gear ratio front dana 30 and rear dana 44 and I am using 17" wheels rims with tyre's 265 width
Can you tell and help with type of stall torque converter will be suitable for my engine
I also have a Grand Cherokee. Mine has a 318 that’s stock.
To answer your question, sorry, I wouldn’t know. This said, I would contact either Coan Engineering, or any other converter manufacturer. They may be able to take your vehicle information/engine/gear ratio/tire size and compute and give you a more accurate answer. Hope that helps.
I have a 5.7 2015 8 speed dodge charger it’s a DD with a mild street cam and a Procharger making about 500 to the wheels. What stall speed would be best for me or should I stay with the stock converter.
It all depends if the engine is into its power band at launch.
The cam grind makes the engine come alive with optimal power during take off if the rpm is correct. If the rpm is too low, the engine will bog.
There are several factors that play into converter selection. This being said, you’ll need to provide this info to your converter manufacturer so they can recommend which converter fits your total package. Horsepower alone is not enough info. Car weight, gear ratio along with engine information is needed to more accurately make a determination.
My recommendation would be to call a company like Coan Engineering, to speak with one of their experts. They will help square you away.
Good luck and let me know how it all plays out. Thank you 👍🏻
@@ronthepoolstudent I am trying to find the cam card but I also have 8 speed 3.06 gears Procharger 6.5 lbs of boost .500whp car is like 4,000 plus lbs. if I am not mistaken stock converter flash’s 1800-2000 but not sure.
@@KillerPowerslave the cam card will definitely help.
Do you know what your rpm range is on your camshaft by chance.
My 568 made its peak power at 6,900 rpm while my 489 street engine made its peak power at 6,500 rpm.
Would a 3200 to 3500 stall be good for a 383 stroker with 5 to 6hhp ,it's in a 1984 chevy Silverado c/10 short bed ,with a 350 turbo C /converter lock 411 gears posi?.
My gut says you’ll need around a 4,500-5k to net your desired flash rpm Allen. To be sure, give Coan Engineering a call and run the numbers by them.
My feeling is that 3,200-3,500 will be too tight.
@@ronthepoolstudent ok where are they out of,I have a 2,500 to 2,800 now I guess I've gotten use to it thank you sir have a blessed night.
@@allenslaughter1965 the flash rpm needs to match up with your cam’s sweet spot. This eliminates bogging off the line.
And you as well Allen 👍🏻
@@ronthepoolstudent ok it takes off well I think I need a little more sir or maybe timing,I'll have my mechanic check ✔️ it out before I put it up for the winter thank you again sir .
if i may ask a question about my not off the shelf converter but there wasn't any dyno sheets exchanged when i bought it. just few msg back and forth telling the builder vehicle weight swapped motor and a list of mods to that motor and i think he also asked for rear gear if memory serves me correct, tho it often dose not lol. witch is a S10 3k lbs 6.0L with 4l80 swapped out of 05 express chev van cam'ed springs saft mnt roll rocks LS3 flat topps turbo charged. but getting back to my prob dumb question because i am a circle tack guy trying my hand at going straight auto is totally alien to me. sorry side tracked again. k my question is when i dropped my gear in my stock rear end down to 4.56 the stall would over shoot by almost 1000ish well Did anyways the half dozen passed or so i got tell Pop! went the 10 bolt. so i built a custom narrowed 8.8 witch is in it now witch i didn't mess with gears just left the 3.27 that where in it alone witch now it no longer overs it is smack on the converters advertised stall speed. so if again want to do lower gears in the new 8.8 will i need to send it out to get worked on? or should i of sent it out back when i was over shooting, just went so quickly focus from converter to a new rear end plans after the pop. what would be your next move if you where in my shoes?
This is why a dyno session is so important Jesse. Chasing your tail takes lots of time and money.
First off, you’ll need to install a data acquisition system that measures rpm. This will tell you your stall at the hit, at the shift point/points and at the stripe. From this data, you can then share it with your converter builder along with the other information they require. This will save you from guessing.
Good luck 👍🏻🍀
PS, Innovate makes an affordable data acquisition system.
It’s a daisy chain setup which allows you to add additional data point measurements for other areas such as driveshaft speed, oil pressure etc etc etc…
How do you choose the size of them? For example I can use a 285mm or 300mm
That’s not an easy answer CC.
The safest way would be to contact a reputable converter company like Coan Engineering to ask for guidance.
They’ll ask questions pertaining to your power plant and vehicle, then give a recommendation of size.
That’s my best answer and I wish you luck.
@@ronthepoolstudent nah that still doesn't answer the question. Some of us would like to know why one is better than the other in different situations or just how they behave. Picking parts in a street car is all about compromise. So it's never as simple as picking the right part for the fastest ET and I have yet to have an expert pick the right part for my cars in the last 20 years. Every single time I've ended up swapping there suggestion a few months later for what they talked me out of and the part they talked me out of worked better for what I wanted.
@@nashvilleoutlaw Converter builds are science. I’ve had them built per dyno sheet and track performance based on data logging. Generally, I’ve had great success with Coan. This being said, it may require a second trip back to them for a tweak to catch that performance one is striving for. The bottom line; it’s up to the person to make the decisions that best suit their needs.
Thought SBC 325 Hp 350 TH350 1,600-2,100 Stall what do You Think .
Too tight imo.
Abruzzi racing converters and transmissions
👍🏻 thanks 👍🏻
How did you get your car to be so light. It must weigh 2700 without you. Thats lighter than my Civic!
Yes James, the car weight is currently 2,700. It used to weigh 2,611 before I added a factory grill and headlights for street driving.
Also, I upgraded to a Dart Big M block from a GM four bolt which added weight. Also upgraded to a Reid super case for the glide.
The chassis is Chromoly but I still have the original front frame section in place. Front down bars are chromoly as well. All glass has been replaced with Lexan and there are no regulators. Breaks are Wilwood four piston drag breaks.
@@ronsmusclecargarage4060 Well thats superlight! I'm envious! My 71 Mustang weighs 3500 w/o driver and thats using a fiberglass hood and aluminum intake. I'm shaving some lbs as we speak. I had Aerospace Components brakes before but they are junk and using Baer now. So same there. New lithium starter battery replacing heavy Optima. New mini starter possibly. New aluminum timing cover. Maybe the carb gets updated from the old Holley but thats one of those things that needs to run right and as you can tell its not a light race car, but more of a cruiser. Cheers
@jamesmedina2062 this car runs in the NHRA Super Pro class James. Many door cars in this class run in the low nines while fewer run in the eights. Since the car is light, this did help it run consistently in the 8.70s on motor.
(new engine build 8.60s)
Also, the lighter weight is easier on drive train components.
Another benefit; the 568 can run a less aggressive 280/291 @ .050 cam, which is great for street use as well.
There are many benefits to running a light car for sure.
Good luck shedding the weight, it’ll help in many ways 👍🏻
@@ronsmusclecargarage4060 Thanks man! Good luck too!!
Regarding cams, is yours a solid roller?? Who is making good cams these days? Mine is a 215/215 at 0.050(hydraulic roller) but may want to run something a little healthier. My 383 stroker has 10:1 static compression. Oh yeah I use iron 351C Aussie heads but if I used aluminum I would lose some weight. Still 3300 though
@@ronsmusclecargarage4060 are you sure the 280/291 is not advertised duration? Thats big!
Fti transmissions and torque converters💪
Not heard of them, thanks 🤔🤷🏻♂️
Coan is top notch
Good units for sure 👍🏻
1956 Chevrolet 2 Dr wagon 3,200 lbs I think
That’s a tough one Willie.
You’ll definitely need to reach out to Coan Engineering. The horsepower to weight is rather low so they’ll have to answer that question.
The best torque converter? None, a manual transmission all the way.
They are fun that’s for sure Nick 👍🏻
To be competitive in either Top ET or Super Pro however, ya gotta have an auto trans with rpm shifter.
We need tight packages to make it to the winner’s circle. In many cases, the package needs to be within thousandths of a second. (.001-.006)
Oh wow lol. Stop.
Thanks for watching and commenting.
CRAZY . all that money down the tube for ego .
Money is no object, 500k racing through the years.
Haters will always hate 🤦🏻♂️