I never did this when got my 4l60e built with new converter and 2 years of not being nice to the truck I haven't had any issues, so thank you car gods ? 🙏
You da man! I watched 3 other videos before yours. They talked forever and took measurements, and I never did figure it out. But seeing yours stabbed in the motor and the torque converter sliding forward when you go to tighten the bolts was the best explanation.
I watched all your 4L60E videos and I really appreciate the videos. One thing you bring up the most that I notice others dont. Replacing the bushings and I like that. Thats why when i get the money, Heavy Hauler for my 2000 Chevy S10 4.3L would be built and bought by PerformaBuilt. You're the only ones I would trust because I plan to keep this truck until Im in the grave haha. Im just trying to figure out if I would need a different stall for the converter but it seems like a lot goes into it. Just taking me a bit save because I want to do a new motor as well as a new transmission at the sametime and knock 2 birds with one stone out of the way. It's honestly all I have left. I already rebuilt the whole suspension on my truck from front to back.
Thanks brother..I've seen where you say same trans but diff bell housings will differ as well..i swapped bell housing and I now have to shin converter..lobe the vids keep em coming..
Do you know of a good kit with AN fittings and steel braided trans cooler lines that will go from the 08+ fitting threads to the stock trans cooler threads?
I remember back in the 80’s in auto tech class a student said he couldn’t find the hole on something and our shop instructor told him to put a little hair on it. Times have changed😂…
You mentioned if the converter is installed correctly, it should spin freely, no grindy noises..etc. I think mine is installed correctly. With converter all the way back towards pump, I have just over an inch from (4l60e) bellhousing mating surface to converter mounting and can't slip my fingers behind the converter. I have right at 1/8" from converter mounting pads to flexplate . It's a pretty tight 1/8". It is a reman converter so would think it shouldn't be so tight?. Anyway, when I rotate it, it spins freely but makes a gritty sound. It makes the same gritty sound when I pull the converter back and forth to the flexplate/pump before installing the bolts. I looked back at my pictures and saw there was a bit of rust inside the converter hub smooth section. Could this be the noise that I'm hearing ? Me hearing the noise sliding it in and out as well as rotating it has me curious. Could it be a low fluid thing ?Thanks! Been lurking your videos for some time. Just subscribed. Thank you for all you're doing!
@@PerformaBuiltTransmissions Thanks. I thought TC Remanufacturing was supposed to decent but obviously got it from local parts store... Sucks... This may mean there's rust inside too I'm guessing? Dang... About ready to put the exhaust back on but this has been gnawing at me and I finally came across your video that specifically mentioned the grainy metallic sound.... Was going to check if maybe it was possible that the crank end was making the racket since I didn't grease it.Sigh.. ..Thank you!..
I definitely don’t understand what you mean, you space it then you bolt it in? What were you spacing because wouldn’t the torque converter just move towards the flex plate when bolted?
Took me a while to understand as well. The converter needs to be able to move back and forth. The flex plate actually bends just so slightly when the engine is running. The spacing is to ensure that there is enough room to allow the converter and flex plate to move without damaging the trans and the engine.
Think of it like this Hunter… with the converter all the way in, it should only move outward .125”-.187” to touch the converter pads to the flex plate.
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I never did this when got my 4l60e built with new converter and 2 years of not being nice to the truck I haven't had any issues, so thank you car gods ? 🙏
You da man! I watched 3 other videos before yours. They talked forever and took measurements, and I never did figure it out. But seeing yours stabbed in the motor and the torque converter sliding forward when you go to tighten the bolts was the best explanation.
Thanks Bro, Nice Job Explaining Proper Spacing.
Extremely understanding of this process now.. thank you
Your weight loss journey is going well!
I never wanna do chassis work again
😂
Thanks Ryan and thanks for the transmission.
I watched all your 4L60E videos and I really appreciate the videos. One thing you bring up the most that I notice others dont. Replacing the bushings and I like that. Thats why when i get the money, Heavy Hauler for my 2000 Chevy S10 4.3L would be built and bought by PerformaBuilt. You're the only ones I would trust because I plan to keep this truck until Im in the grave haha. Im just trying to figure out if I would need a different stall for the converter but it seems like a lot goes into it.
Just taking me a bit save because I want to do a new motor as well as a new transmission at the sametime and knock 2 birds with one stone out of the way. It's honestly all I have left. I already rebuilt the whole suspension on my truck from front to back.
I appreciate that your a man of details and showing dedication to your build! Hats off, we will build you a mean Heavy hauler!
Thanks brother..I've seen where you say same trans but diff bell housings will differ as well..i swapped bell housing and I now have to shin converter..lobe the vids keep em coming..
Interesting I’ve never once heard of this before!
Penny just dropped, wish i had of found your video sooner 😢
Thanks to you, i wont make same mistakes twice. 💯🤞
Great video! Question, how do you adjust if the measurement is off?
Cheers Bloke 💪🇦🇺
Kool channel
Best video
Happy Easter Uncle Ryan
Happy Easter Addy
Do you know of a good kit with AN fittings and steel braided trans cooler lines that will go from the 08+ fitting threads to the stock trans cooler threads?
You will have to match that up. The fittings are definitely available but kits are becoming a thing of the past
@PerformaBuiltTransmissions thank you 👍
Insert joke here...hahhaa..never been good at finding the hole
I remember back in the 80’s in auto tech class a student said he couldn’t find the hole on something and our shop instructor told him to put a little hair on it. Times have changed😂…
You mentioned if the converter is installed correctly, it should spin freely, no grindy noises..etc. I think mine is installed correctly. With converter all the way back towards pump, I have just over an inch from (4l60e) bellhousing mating surface to converter mounting and can't slip my fingers behind the converter. I have right at 1/8" from converter mounting pads to flexplate . It's a pretty tight 1/8". It is a reman converter so would think it shouldn't be so tight?. Anyway, when I rotate it, it spins freely but makes a gritty sound. It makes the same gritty sound when I pull the converter back and forth to the flexplate/pump before installing the bolts. I looked back at my pictures and saw there was a bit of rust inside the converter hub smooth section. Could this be the noise that I'm hearing ? Me hearing the noise sliding it in and out as well as rotating it has me curious. Could it be a low fluid thing ?Thanks! Been lurking your videos for some time. Just subscribed. Thank you for all you're doing!
Id ditch that converter if its a reman with rust. It will tear up your pump bushing. Get a reputable converter and dont look back
@@PerformaBuiltTransmissions Thanks. I thought TC Remanufacturing was supposed to decent but obviously got it from local parts store... Sucks... This may mean there's rust inside too I'm guessing? Dang... About ready to put the exhaust back on but this has been gnawing at me and I finally came across your video that specifically mentioned the grainy metallic sound....
Was going to check if maybe it was possible that the crank end was making the racket since I didn't grease it.Sigh.. ..Thank you!..
I definitely don’t understand what you mean, you space it then you bolt it in? What were you spacing because wouldn’t the torque converter just move towards the flex plate when bolted?
Then there would be too much space if you just bolt it because it would flex and come out. Rewatch itll make sense
Took me a while to understand as well. The converter needs to be able to move back and forth. The flex plate actually bends just so slightly when the engine is running. The spacing is to ensure that there is enough room to allow the converter and flex plate to move without damaging the trans and the engine.
Exactly!
Think of it like this Hunter… with the converter all the way in, it should only move outward .125”-.187” to touch the converter pads to the flex plate.
Washers between the converter and flexplate space the converter out further.
What if you don’t have enough spacing
this thing will beat the living shit outta ur pump😂😂😂😂😂😂
I laughed at that part as well.
Very animated
.good stuff
@3:51 just call me out like that.