Would have been good to note that a lockup converter won't have the issue of stalling higher than cruise RPM. Also, would like you to address what typical factory stall ratings are....maybe provide the stall figures for common vehicles to help us understand the impact of changing stall speeds for those vehicles.
This guy knows what he's talking about. Trust me. I've learned from trial and error. Blew my stator in a foot brake stall left me using my gears manually in a automatic transmission. Had a bad sprag and/or one way clutch.
Hi Rando, You have two obstacles to overcome. The lower numeric gear ration and stock converter. Increasing the stall is necessary, but without increasing the rear gear ratio you will not get the full benefit of the converter change. We’d recommend a TCI Breakaway series converter . It will give you about 1,000 more rpms stall speed than stack. Changing the rear gear to a 3.73:1 ratio will help maximize your overall performance.
In the interest of making the car more streetable, you should consider changing the camshaft first. Then, match the rear end gear and a new torque converter to the new cam. Thanks for watching! Please let us know if you have any additional questions.
I clicked, assuming that it would be yet another watered down Corporate Info Show... While still not going into depth on any specifics, I found that very informative and interesting!! 👍👍 I'll need to keep looking, because I'm trying to find the right Converter for a mildly modified 4.2L V6 2001 Mustang. You mentioned that a Big Block will stall a little higher than a Small Block... But what about the minority with V6s - or FOURS?? Now I remember back in the day, 4cyl Mustangs had typically 10-10.5" Converters. They stalled at around 2100-2300 RPM. A Converter LIKE that (yes, the stock 2.3L unit would IMPLODE in a Big Block!!), are usually in the 3000-3600 RPM range. So.... It kinda makes it difficult to figure out the Math, to get a Converter for smaller Engines.
PoorMan, Choosing the correct torque converter for any application takes some knowledge, experience and in some cases, some luck! While internal parts can be manipulated ... and are; external forces are a huge consideration. Things such as the weight of the vehicle, gear ratio and tire size. These are the resistance factors if you will. A heavier car with a stock gear ratio and a taller tire has more resistance to movement and may cause a higher stall speed. Now, on the input side, "the engine", generally speaking the more power spinning the converter the higher the stall will be. We shouldn't categorize this as a big or small block thing. There are some very powerful small engines out there! What is more important to consider is where the power band is for your engine. If it is possible to identify that, generally speaking, choose your converter stall speed to be approximately 500-800 RPM after the motor starts making power. In a perfect world a dyno sheet would be key here but, not all have that advantage so, a look at the power band on the cam card may be helpful. As stated earlier, internal parts of a torque converter also play a role in stall speed. Things such as case size, fin count and fin angle all have an affect. These things are chosen mainly by each manufacturer because they are the "secret sauce" so to speak that sets each one apart from the other. Not to mention, those parts take a deeper understanding of converter construction that many don't possess and therefore only add confusion to the process. Now these are very general points but, very important to keep in mind when choosing your torque converter! There is much more to torque converter science and many good resources available abroad for the inquiring mind!
For better acceleration with a stock engine, we would suggest a torque converter with an 1800-2000 rpm stall range. Anything higher than this will cause excessive heat in the transmission leading to potential premature failure.
Good afternoon, I have an edelbrock performer kit, for a 302, 81 of a bronco, they estimate 320 hp and 260 foot pounds of torque between 2000 and 4000 rpm (5500 rpm max). It has a 3-speed c6 box, standard differential and 33 wheels, I need to replace the torque converter, I appreciate your suggestion to choose the right one for these characteristics, the camshaft indicates, intake duration 204 degrees, exhaust duration 214 degrees, elevation intake .448", exhaust elevation .472", lobe separation 112 degrees, intake center line 107 degrees, vacuum 16", thank you very much and congratulations for the videos, they are of great help to incorporate knowledge.
The new camshaft will actually be the dictating factor in selecting the correct converter. Please supply the camshaft part number or specifications of the new cam so that we can make an accurate suggestion, hope to hear back from you soon!
I bought the Comp cam 07-503-8 for my 97 lt1 from summit now I'm looking into the stall converter. I've talked with a customer service rep. at summit on this but i was told its not the right one I need. I have an 87 year 700r4, 373 gears and run 275-60-15. What's best for my set up? Thanks
A high stall convertor is used in drag racing because it allows the engine RPM to reach efficient RPM before launch. A drag race engine makes peak horsepower HP and torque TQ at two different RPM points. Most efficient start RPM or Stall Speed is to be 200-300 RPM over peak torque RPM. For instance dragster engine makes peak torque @ 5800 rpm, so I have a 6100 stall convertor.
Great job explaining that. Glad you stated about the range and all the variables. That does make more sense. And I like the part about stalling at 500 rpm higher than camshaft . Also the part about choosing a converter that will stall below highway cruise rpm. Did not know that one.
The “Impeller pump” is a welded part of the Torque Converter outer case or Dome as your refer to it. The Stator splines onto the larger shaft on the front of the transmission an sits between the Impeller and Turbine. The Turbine is splined onto the actual input shaft of the transmission and turns the inner workings of the transmission.
A converter with a slightly higher than stock stall would be the right choice for your application. I suggest you go with a Summit brand converter part number SUM-G2704-12 ($229.95) for the best performance increase.
Thanks to you I was able to pick proper cams , torque converter wheel and tire size without guessing but at highway speed how much rpm above stall seed should you be a lot or a little or somewhere in the middle I used jegs calculator and came up with two gear options 4.11 which is about 300 rpm above stall(start) with my planed setup or 4.56 gears that are about 600 rpm above I also read your comments and I realized I'll need to upgrade my transmission cooler
A torque converter with roughly a 3,000 rpm stall rating likely would be the best choice for your combination. I suggest going with a part number HUP-GM30 ($329.95) converter.
A torque converter with a stall between 2,300 - 2,500 rpm would be the right choice for your Trans Am. If your vehicle still has the stock transmission (4L60E) in it, Hughes makes a converter that matches up very well. The part number for this torque converter is HUP-22-25L ($369.95).
I couldn't help but notice 7:51 into the video his beard grew and his hair got messy he even started sweeting. He probably didn't like to put all of his knowledge on video now he can get fired and the video used as a training vid. Thanks for the video buddy.
Summit, I am trying to find an upgraded converter for a 2013 Dodge Dart 2.0L with Power-tech 6F24. Here is some information to assist in this: Displacement - 1,995 cc Compression ratio - 10.2:1 Cam profile - Dual-Overhead / DOHC Injector size - 36 mm Transmission model year - 2013 Gear Ratios - 1st - 4.21 / 2nd - 2.64 / 3rd - 1.80 / 4th - 1.39 / 5th - 1.00 / 6th - 0.77 Rearend gear ratio - 3.20 (final-drive ratio) the torque rating is only capable of 185 ft-lb of torque and I know a lot of 2.4 and 2.0 guys are coming close to hitting that limiter with tunes and bolt on upgrades. The 2.4L stock from factory is already pushing, 174 lb-ft, and with only 185 ft-lbs available from the power-tech automatic, there is little room for growth. Let me know if you need any other information in regards to the Dart, I will try and help out as much as possible with the information I have. I think if we are able to get a past the stock 185 ft-lb torque rating on the power-tech a lot of others will see the potential in the automatic and the Dart.
A converter with a stall around 2,400 - 2,600 rpm would be the best choice for your combination. We suggest going with a Hughes HUP-22-25L converter which matches your combination very well. Thanks for watching! Please let us know if you have any additional questions :)
Some of this info is incorrect if you use a lock-up converter.. I know a guy who put a TCI 3000 stall converter in his 2007 mustang GT. He can footbrake stall it to 2500. He has 355 gears and it cruises at about 1800. He has been running it on the street and bracket races almost every weekend and has never had a problem in years and years. His is a multi disk LOCK_UP converter.
I learned one lesson, don't go by the advertised stall rating. Bought a B&M 2400 and it stalled pretty much on the money. Had to have it repaired during race season and replaced it with a Summit one that was advertised @ 3000, but it actually only stalled @ 2200. Boy, was that ever a let down. The B&M is back in it now. Anyone want the Summit converter ? Very low mileage. Probably only 25-50 miles on it. (Torqueflite 727)
It's a RANGE, not a specific number. They said that in the video like 10 times. But 800rpm is a bit too much. Baybe + or - 300rpm would be fine, but not 800.
Assuming the car is street driven and the “Torque Converter Lock up” feature is still being used, we would recommend that you use a 2400-2600 stall speed for best results.
Watching in earnest. My big questions: Best rear gear and TQ stall/model with just a tune and CAI. Peak torque stock is 4250rpm. I've read two trains of thought: 1. Get a TC that stalls at or close to the peak. 2. Get a TC that stalls at 500-700 rpm below the peak. No racing(?), just street-highway. 2004 Mercury Marauder. Torque Peak stock at 4250 rpm. Stock stall rating: 2850 to 3011 rpm.
We have a few additional questions that we would like to ask you. This is a bit of a complex topic that would be better to discuss with our tech line. Please give our tech line a call at 1-330-630-0240 so we can give you the best suggestion. Thank you for watching and we hope to hear from you soon!
I listen to these types of videos for entertainment only. I bought a B&M 3500 stall converter and it worked on my 76 Nova stalling to 3200-3500. This was what I expected. Both cars about the same. Then bought a Summit brand and put it in my S10 with a 400hp 406, broke the tires lose at 1800-2100. Now some people would say thats because the S10 was lighter. I don't thing so. These test were done sitting still holding the brake. There is no way for my converter to tell the difference between my tire size, vehicle weight or any other factors. B&M says 33200-3500 that is what you get. Off brand converters you will never know what you're gonna get. So, the next converter I bought was a BossHog converter from summit. This one pulled the same crap on me, it broke the tires lose at 1800 to 2000 rpm; Had a talk with the company in Muscle Shoals they went into vehicle weight, gear ratio, horse power and their usual bullshit. Sorry, I don't buy those concepts! In the end the BossHog converter loosened up and managed to make it up to 3200-3300 in my S10. But I still don't buy into all the science they say goes into a converter. My 2 cents. Buy quality first and you wont be disappointed. It's all about buying a quality product in the beginning. You get what you pay for.
C4, okay - thank you. Please consider the following: How aggressive do you want to be - how much efficiency are you willing to give up? Your gear choice sort of indicates where you are headed, but I do not want to read between the lines.And, what is your tire diameter in inches? I appreciate the P-metric information but please measure for me.
THANK YOU! omg, my cuda is nonstop overheat on the hwy even in cold with a new radiator. now I know why. 2.73 gears and 27" tires equals 2200rpm @ 65. NEVER gets above the 2400 stall converter (cam is rated for 2000). Time for a rear gear change!
Thanks Summit for the help. I knew the gear ratio was not high enough but with a 3 speed and no OD, I wasn't sure if I would just be constructing a gas hog. I plan on going to a different tranny, then the rear end will be upgraded. My F150 has a 3.73, so I know what a difference it makes. Thanks again.
I have a 1970 C10, it differently has a after market cam installed. the dealer that I got it from doesn't know what cam was put in before, my mechanic installed a fuel injector system because of the carburetor just wasn't cutting it, but I have great cruising speeds but terrible acceleration, it's time to upgrade the converter, wish me luck
thank you so much that was absolutely fantastic level of education and just such a short amount of time. I am searching for a torque converter upgrade for my 2003 F150 but after this video it seems like I should order OEM tour converter so not to screw anything up. Unless there are some F150 guys out there that no for a fact there is a good torque converter upgrade for better performance
I was going to go ahead and and watch this video, but I had to go ahead and go. Later, I will go ahead watch it, if I don't go ahead with something else.
I want mine changed to a higher end torque because in the summer, the oil gets too hot and causes slipping and also the engine goes any where from 1100 RPM to 1700 RPM just getting on a Hwy. That is way to high from my learning and it came that way even after having the trans rebuilt and modified after the inner bell cracked. Less engine wear and better mileage is what I'm looking at. No pulling trailers.
I've a Chevy Step-Side with a 427 Rat with a mild cam pushing a quality 3800 - 4000 ish stall torque converter. The transmission is a 3 speed 400 Turbo with 4:11 gears in the rear and 33" tires. The truck, I suspect, was properly built for very serious bush-bashing. I would like the Rat to be able to go to sleep on the highway (overdrive, likely), and be fun to drive around town. It drives city & highway alright already, but I feel it could hook up sooner, shift more positively/immediately. Putting along at 60 mph, it feels well hooked up at 3200 rpm or so, but the 427 makes so much torque, I feel it doesn't need to be spinning like that. I want to be able to do it all. I want to drive it in the city, the highway, and the track. Slush-boxes are beautiful when you get them right, but so confusing to get there. Oh, hell … I'll probably just put a 5 or 6 speed in the thing, and get on with it - haha. Any advice? It is a set up full of contrasts. An interesting puzzle.
Diesel Ready, It really depends on whether or not you want to keep an automatic or switch to a manual. You’re going to have about the same cash outlay either way and both will require a new driveshaft and crossmember. Give us a call and we’ll help you put a parts list together. 1-330-630-0240. We look forward to your call. Thanks for watching!
While we are at it do you know the weight of your Fairmont? Has it been lightened? Is this a street only, dual purpose or entry level race only vehicle? Let me know, I would like to help
Ok I need a little more help please. I have 3.90 gears and I'm currently building a 440 with an old ERSON .486 dual lift for intake & exhaust. Well, It's ready to be installed now actually. And at 55 miles per hour the RPM is right around 2000 -2200. which is about as high as care to go for cruising. Curious as if u have suggestion for RPM stall. Thinking 2000 is plenty but I'm a little unsure. It's my first car build in almost 30 yrs and I just don't fully trust my judgment anymore. Any advise u have would be great.
Guido Sarducci, I was a GM mechanic back in the day, I went to a 373 gear, If you have the HP it's enough to light them up and lets you work on suspension and tires to get the power to the ground, but still let's you drive, I don't like going to a 4 gear unless its block to block racing, I know how fast that can be but it's too tall for me.
thank you...I went way too high a gear ratio and stall. I went with 2400 stall but it hooks @ around 2700 with this new motor. It's not really good for anything but burn outs and city light to light. (fun for what it is, but gets old fast) Plus I don't need any tickets - I've been warned twice already. I regret my choices. I can't hardly go anywhere. I'm dropping everything down. I'm fully comfortable going w/ 3.55 rear and 2000 stall. It was a learning experience for sure. I appreciate your input & taking the time very much just the same.
Guido Sarducci Choosing cam, rear end gear and converter is a bitch, I was a GM mechanic and my uncle who built pro stock machines still helped me pick an incorrect combination, I'm thinking 355 gear and 2 grand stall is now falling on the lame side, 355 is Too much of a grandpa gear, That's when breaking them loose and hooking up(wrinkle wall) becomes hard, I would go a tad TALLER, keep that converter up above mild 2 grand-ish stalls, not much poop there, Oh fuck I'm no professor, Just don't go too mild, Like to meat up at a red light some night.
Quick question 🤔 do I need to adjust my to tq convert if I changed my tire and rim size? I went from a 17inch rim to a 20inch chrome rim. I don't notice a acceleration drop do to having a jms pedalmax that eliminate the drive wire delay. I have it set at 75%. I tried it at 100% once. And it was to touchy. 75% is the kinda sweet spot.
I overhauled my engine in my 1997 silverado with stock parts and now my transmission stalls. But before the repair,I didnt have that issue.Like I would accelerate ant I would be gone!...zoom!! Could it be that my engine has gained more power due to the repairs that the torque converter now doesnt respond fast enough??
What size/stall speed would you suggest for a 1989 G30 Class C RV that has a TH400 3-speed transmission. weighs roughly 10,000 lbs and 12,000 pounds if towing a small trailer? The engine is a new Chevrolet L05 TBI 350 crate engine rated at 210 hp at 4000 RPM and 300 lb-ft torque at 2800. Engine specs are: 9.4 to 1 compression ratio , Camshaft with 165/174 duration at 0.050, 0.382 In./0.402 ex. lift, 1.94 in. intake/1.50 in. exhaust valves, cylinder heads (65.3cc chambers). The rear axle ratio is 4.10. I see towing torque converters with a 1200 RPM stall speed. Would this be suggested for this application or will it cause poor performance and bogging and stalling when putting into gear? Should I just use the stock converter?
Yes, there are 2 notches in the snout of the torque converter. When the converter is properly installed; those notches will engage the drive lugs in the pressure pump on the front of the transmission turning it at engine/flywheel speed.
I want maximum elapsed time what brand and converter stall do you think? 3,570 pound leaf spring car, with me 160 pounds total weight = 3,730 275-60 R15 tire 27.7 OD. 350 turbo trans just shift kit and manual valve body with Electric shifter. Trans not finished yet. I plan on installing 400 turbo with trans brake with Gear Vendor or 4L80E trans brake or something else very strong with a low gear set. 4.11 spool rear gear in now and 4.56 new chunk will try 4.56 some time Use to stall 4,000 9.5" converter stall but converter broke only goes to 3,000 now. Still goes down track but would be way off at track. I bought the best converter at the time won't say what brand of converter. Car has about 7,000 miles on it. I'd have to look to be for sure. Mostly street and some track. Engine power on Dyno no power adder yet 700 HP at 5,600 710 TQ at 4000 572 BBC
So couldn’t you run a higher stall than your cruising speed if you also install a torque converter lock up switch? I have a 77 Chevy k10 with an 1800-2000 or so stall and I would like to increase the stall for a better launch but it cruises at 1800 rpms at 60 mph. It also tries to die when put into gear but I’m running a comp cams Xtreme energy 268 cam. It starts making power around 15-1600 rpms
Our tech department has a few questions for you before a suggestion can be made. Would you mind giving our tech department a call? 1-330-630-0240. Thank you for watching!
After looking at your combination, I suggest going with a converter that stalls around 3,000 rpm. We hope this helps! Please let us know if you have any additional questions.
One thing I dont understand at all is the BBC vs SBC explanation at about 9:30 . If the big block has more low-end torque, wouldn't it need a lower stall range than a SBC which produces less low-end torque? Since the BBC Engines powerband starts peaking so early on in the RPM range, wouldn't it be more beneficial to lock up the converter earlier on to get as much of that maximum torque to the wheels? Thanks
Hello, Brother if you can suggest me, I do have a gmc c25 that I swapped L77 6.0 in it. With BTR stage 4 package cam. Denali manifold, K&N cold intake. Upgraded pushing in the rockers, oil pump by mailing. Long tube header 3” 1/-7/8 with full catback by magnaflow. Upgraded 4l80E kit by tci up 800 hp. I tuned it and made up to 469 HP. What torque converter stall will be perfect for me ? Thanks
I would have sworn that the factory motor was a 425. However if this is a factory piece then you have the THM425 transmission for the front wheel drive. If that is the case then please use the stock torque converter. Good luck.
So wonder if your brake and flash stall are at the same point? In my 96 Ram with 156K on the original trans, I can hold the brake (and use E-brake to prevent wheelspin) and hit about 2200rpm. When I punch it from a dead stop, I also flash to about 2200rpm on stock diameter tires and 4.10 gear, truck at ±4800lbs. Why would they be the same?
What do I do for an LS swap with a 6L80 that over powers the brakes when you put it in drive? Should I get a torque converter with a higher stall speed or maybe a 4l60 with a lower 1 gear ratio?
I’m interested in buying one of your brand converters. Do you guys have technicians that can help choose which torque converter will work for my setup?
You will want to go with a converter that stalls around 2,000 rpm. I suggest go with with one of our Summit converters part # SUM-G2704-12 ($229.95) for the best performance. Thanks for watching and please let us know if you have any additional questions.
I like the sounds of a stroker LT1. Be sure to employ all of the essentials involved in building the 383 stroker. Be careful once you start getting past the 500 HP level with the factory block. I’m not saying that it can’t be done because it can - I’m just saying have all of your ducks in a row and be careful. Good luck and thanks for watching. Please let us know if you have any additional questions!
Hey Summit Racing I have a 2016 ram 1500 Tsp stage 1 cam kit Headers 3.21 rear gear On 35/12.50/20 And I still tow very often was wondering what converter you would recommend thanks
Ive always used a stock converter no matter what engine is in there. I like to build old classic Chevy Trucks and currently have a 66 Ford F100 project plan. I was looking at a 390 FE crate engine at 420HP and it says a stall is required with that engine. Why does the engine need a stall if I have no need to rev the engine up so I can get a big launch??? Im not building a drag racing truck....I just want a powerful engine to play with on the street. I dont need it to run up to 3000 RPM before it takes off. So why would it say a stall converter is " REQUIRED"??? When I touch the pedal I want it to take off immediately and go llke every other truck ive had. This 390 Ford big block will have more torque than all the Chevy small blocks ive had bolted to turbo 350 transmissions with stock converters. It should have gobs of torque right from the start so I dont get why a stall is " required" for that engine. Im just ignorant on the subject because ive never used one or had manual transmissions so please forgive me. I just want a 66 Ford truck high power cruiser....not a drag truck.
thanks for the above response, one more question... the notch in the front of the torque converter, does it lock into the actual gear of the transmission pump?...
Looking at the combination you will be putting together, your vehicle will require a minimum of a 2,500 stall converter to perform well. I suggest going with a Hughes converter part # HUP-24-25 ($249.95) for the best performance. Please let us know if you have any additional questions. Thanks for watching!
Hi. What will happen if I fit an automatic transmission and torque converter from a 2.5 litre V6 car into a car that has a 1.8 litre 4 cylinder? The final drive will be from a manual 4 cylinder.
This video helped a ton. What size do you recommend for the following specs: Auto 01 Mustang GT (supercharged and cammed) 4.10s I have comp cams stage II, with operating range 1800-5800 Tires are 315/35-17
I recently purchased a brand new 350 Chevy SB crate engine (part number 19420880). I have no idea on how to determine what the RPM starting range is on the camshaft that the engine came with. I am using a TH350 transmission along with the new engine. Could you tell me what torque converter I would need for this engine?
Hey! We would be happy to help, we just need a little more information about your engine/vehicle combination before we can suggest anything. Can you give us the following information: - Camshaft specs - Vehicle type - Rear gear ratio - How the vehicle mainly will be used
I have a 1966 valiant with 360 small block around 400 ho and tq have .486 lift cam 279 intake duration 296 exhaust duration .473 exhaust lift 107 lobe separation 20-600-4 cam # it is used for street mostly track a few times 1/8 mile frame connectors auto 904 built gear ratio is 3.55 8.75 rear end compression is around 9.5 any help would be great
I am having a hard time picking the right stall for my set up....i have a restored 71 chevelle with a 6.0 LS with efi (not carb converted) and a 4l60e with 4.11 gears....car weight is roughly 3900lbs ....cam operating range is 2500-6500rpm....do I need a 2500-3000rpm stall converter, or a 2000-2500rpm stall converter.....this is only my second hotrod build with an automatic trans....i usually go with manual transmissions but I'm getting old and I wanted this chevelle to be a nice cruiser that my wife can drive without smoking my clutch or giving us whiplash...the last time I built a hotrod with an automatic it was a 70 Nova with a 355ci th350 and 3.73 gears....it had a comp 280/480 with a range of2000-6000 and I used a stall I purchased from a friend who said it was either a 3000 or a 3500rpm stall converter...he couldn't remember but he said it would be close enough....well it wasnt even close to being applicable and the car felt like crap! By the time it started moving it was halfway thru the engine power curve....or at least it felt that way. It was so off the mark that I ended up removing the motor and stall and dropping in a 290hp stock 350ci crate motor and a stock converter.....the crate motor with its 290hp made the nova faster than it was with the 355ci that I built....it had fresh reworked 041 iron heads with some minor port and bowl work done by a very reputable shop, all good valves and springs and titanium retainers and locks....zero decked with flat top pistons...steel crank and aftermarket 5.7 rods ...the 280/480 cam and an old torker intake and 750cfm 4150.,...it wouldn't be jack shit these days but back in 1995 it was a good little daily driver build....the problem wasn't the motor it was the wrong stall....i sold the motor to my brother who put it in his 4sp 81 z28 and it ran great....but in my nova with that awful stall it was a turd.....i do not want to make the same mistake with my chevelle....if anyone takes the time to read all this I'd really like to hear your thoughts on what you think would be the best stall converter size/range would be for my is swapped chevelle....i mentioned above the trans and rear gears....if it helps my motor is a 2004 lq4 with fresh 243 heads with good valves and hardware....compression ratio is close to 10.5 ...cam is 221/232 -.545/.545 112+5 with a 2500-6500 power range....tbss intake (for now)....ls7 lifters/ ls9 valve springs....7.400 pushrods...long tube headers...36lb injectors...92mm TB....trunion upgraded rocker arms.....pretty much stock but should be over 400hp....didnt try to build a racecar.....just a good cruiser with a good stereo to take the ol lady out on country rides on the weekends and do a good burn outs.....i just want to make sure I choose the right stall this time so it isn't a dog like my nova was for awhile.
For a heavy car with taller gears I would stick with something in the 2400-2700 range like this Summit Racing Torque converter. www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-700338
@@SummitRacing I took your advice and and bought the summit pro ls converter part number sum-700338.....i hope it does well....if not than in going to buy a Ouija board and tell the demons you been talk smack about their mama.
Hello, I am DIY replacing an engine on 2018 Hyundai Tucson. I've separated the transmission. But having trouble removing the torque converter from the engine and caused a slight crack on the tip facing in towards the transmission. Is that going to be a huge issue? Or must replace?
A torque converter with a stall of around 2,500 rpm would be the best choice for your combination. Assuming that your truck has either a 4L60E or 4L80E transmission, I suggest go with a HUP-22-25EL ($419.95) for the 4L60E or a HUP-22-25L ($569.95) if it has a 4L80E transmission. Please let us know if you have any additional questions :)
What about lockup tq converters? Like in a camaro, is a 2800-3000 stall possible?, with lockup converter, and 3.45 gears? Cruse at about 1800 rpm , its a street car, 385 cid. 11:1, comp nos hp cam . 2800-6800, but I would like to cruse at 1800-2k,
What is the transmission - C4, AOD, AODE? How aggressive do you want to be - how much efficiency are you willing to give up? Your gear choice sort of indicates where you are headed, but we do not want to read between the lines. Let us know, we would like to help.
Please Help...1991 C 1500...What will cause my 700r4 to lose reverse in a short 1 mile distance from a cold start or very slow to go in reverse but will slip if i give it gas and i lose O/D in short distance say 1 mile and trans will slip if going up a hill and steep grade and then i hear a shutter i assume is coming from the toque converter. When cold you take off and gun it it dont slip at all. Does like it should but only last a short time then i lose od and reverse and will slip if i put small amount of throttle. Please help me if you can. I am a poor 60 yr old man and trying to fix this on my own from another trans i pulled less than a yr ago because it wouldnt shift right no matter the adjustment on the tv cable. Got to were it took 40 plus mile a hr b4 it would shift from 1st to second. Im trying to fix one from two. Dont matter witch one long as I can get back on the road. Anyway I hope you see this and can help me. I cant afford to pay anybody to help me so I really would appreciate any help you can give me. Thank You...
So if I have 3:73 gears running 275/55/20 and camshaft 2500 -3000rpm powerband... I need a 298mm billet lockup converter and what stall should I get for my 4l60e
Ok, regarding stall below highway cruising rpm, that is irrelevant if using a lockup type converter, correct? Say my engine needs a 3500 stall for the build, but gets driven on the highway at 75mph at 2500rpm, if using a lockup style, that's still fine, correct?
I'm rebuilding a chrysler 400 big block w/ keith black 9 to 1's, stock heads/rods/crank. Very short stroke for a big block, so i'm looking at alot of torque with quick revs too. Ideal camshaft is around .500 to .530-ish lift, good duration, power from 2,000 rpm to 6,500 rpm, like an edelbrock performer RPM or mopar purple cam. Torqueflite w/ 8-3/4 rear, in a 1973 Plymouth, weighs about two tons. What sort of stall would you suggest for daily driver and the occasional quarter mile pass?
so at cruise speed you say you want the TC to stall out or it will be slipping but that dosent make sense because at cruise speed the clutches will be locked so there is no fluid coupling occurring anyway...
a friend of mine is putting a 650 HP LS motor with a 3500 RPM stall , into a car with a 2.7 back end . Hes a know-all who doesnt listen , but how will that affect it ? seems to me its going to be driving around everywhere slipping , as well as slowing the accelaration due to being so tall geared
Hi, would I have any issues by going from a low stall converter to a Med stall converter?I am replacing my transmission, and the replacement transmission has this converter, same specs as my old one but with higher stall, DLPF 2420 9245 TC-GM35CW Torque converter, 700-R4, 4L60E, 30 Spline, Medium Stall (Woven carbon) Woven Carbon Clutch, Codes: DCNF, DLNF, DLPF Medium Stall (1600-1800) 12" diameter, 298mm, Pilot 1.703", 3 Pads, 30 spline, PWM with ECCC my old converter has these specs: (lower stall) DHPF2420 6163 TC-GM33CW Torque converter, 700-R4, 4L60E, 30 Spline, Low Stall (Woven carbon) Woven Carbon Clutch,Codes: DHPF, DHPG, DKNF, DKPF Low Stall (1400-1600) 12" diameter, 298mm, Pilot 1.703", 3 Pads, 30 spline, PWM with ECCC
i have a 2001 5.3 that has 3.73 gears and going to be adding a cam here pretty soon what type of converter would i need for a street/strip install it is a daily driver.
I had a 10.4 in. factory converter it would "stall" @ 1,800 behind a 273 behind a 440 it went to 2,500. It is cubic ins. and torque that makes it work. Have all the info. BEFORE you order the parts.
My car has two symptoms listed Poor acceleration and lunging tires 26" high, rear end 3.25:1 sbf 331, 650 holley, performer RPM mani cam is a 268. Long tubes, xpipe duals C4. Is this enough info to recommend a torque converter The car (67 'stang) is very fast at top end but the throttle must be advanced slowly during acceleration because you can feel the car not using all the fuel being delivered at low end. Thanks
I have a 94 camaro z28 with an intake and magnaflow exhaust. My plans for my car are headers, cam, heads, and porting my lt1 from 350 to 383 and putting in 3.73 gears. Its a 4l60e that's being built to handle 600hp. I was thinking a yank ss3600. Opinions?
I have a 68 GTO, stock 350hp 400 c.i. engine, stock camshaft, TH400, and a 3.42 rear end. I don't know what stall speed the torque converter in it now has, but I ordered a 1400 rpm aprox. Stall speed converter for it. Does this sound like a good combination?
![Torque Converter Install and Setback Clearance - THE SKID FACTORY - [Quick Tech]](/img/1.gif)
Would have been good to note that a lockup converter won't have the issue of stalling higher than cruise RPM. Also, would like you to address what typical factory stall ratings are....maybe provide the stall figures for common vehicles to help us understand the impact of changing stall speeds for those vehicles.
hands down the best explanation i've heard yet. it finally clicked with this video
Great video, I think this guy knows his stuff, the torque converter is a very complicated part, as is the automatic transmission...Ed
I like the screwdriver in the engine stand.
:)
Whatevers clever
You'd love to watch me work on my truck 😂 you would not believe where I can put tools for safe keeping lol
There's another way to do it??? Lmao
Ryan Kelly, Exactly! Lol..
I like the screwdriver in the engine stand peg hole keeping that chevy small block from flipping over. Good car guy stuff there.
This guy knows what he's talking about. Trust me. I've learned from trial and error. Blew my stator in a foot brake stall left me using my gears manually in a automatic transmission. Had a bad sprag and/or one way clutch.
Hey, thanks for the suggestion. We will get the lock up torque converter video done. We should post it some time next week!
Whats a good tourque converter for rx8 with sport mode.
Thanks for the info! Someone give me a dollar for everytime he says "which is gonna go ahead and.."
Hi Rando, You have two obstacles to overcome. The lower numeric gear ration and stock converter. Increasing the stall is necessary, but without increasing the rear gear ratio you will not get the full benefit of the converter change. We’d recommend a TCI Breakaway series converter . It will give you about 1,000 more rpms stall speed than stack. Changing the rear gear to a 3.73:1 ratio will help maximize your overall performance.
In the interest of making the car more streetable, you should consider changing the camshaft first. Then, match the rear end gear and a new torque converter to the new cam. Thanks for watching! Please let us know if you have any additional questions.
Are you telling the oil what to do in the torque converter? There are way too many "go ahead" phrases for a descriptive vid ...
@@Faolan161🎉
I clicked, assuming that it would be yet another watered down Corporate Info Show...
While still not going into depth on any specifics, I found that very informative and interesting!! 👍👍
I'll need to keep looking, because I'm trying to find the right Converter for a mildly modified 4.2L V6 2001 Mustang.
You mentioned that a Big Block will stall a little higher than a Small Block...
But what about the minority with V6s - or FOURS??
Now I remember back in the day, 4cyl Mustangs had typically 10-10.5" Converters. They stalled at around 2100-2300 RPM. A Converter LIKE that (yes, the stock 2.3L unit would IMPLODE in a Big Block!!), are usually in the 3000-3600 RPM range.
So.... It kinda makes it difficult to figure out the Math, to get a Converter for smaller Engines.
PoorMan,
Choosing the correct torque converter for any application takes some knowledge, experience and in some cases, some luck! While internal parts can be manipulated ... and are; external forces are a huge consideration. Things such as the weight of the vehicle, gear ratio and tire size. These are the resistance factors if you will. A heavier car with a stock gear ratio and a taller tire has more resistance to movement and may cause a higher stall speed. Now, on the input side, "the engine", generally speaking the more power spinning the converter the higher the stall will be. We shouldn't categorize this as a big or small block thing. There are some very powerful small engines out there! What is more important to consider is where the power band is for your engine. If it is possible to identify that, generally speaking, choose your converter stall speed to be approximately 500-800 RPM after the motor starts making power. In a perfect world a dyno sheet would be key here but, not all have that advantage so, a look at the power band on the cam card may be helpful. As stated earlier, internal parts of a torque converter also play a role in stall speed. Things such as case size, fin count and fin angle all have an affect. These things are chosen mainly by each manufacturer because they are the "secret sauce" so to speak that sets each one apart from the other. Not to mention, those parts take a deeper understanding of converter construction that many don't possess and therefore only add confusion to the process.
Now these are very general points but, very important to keep in mind when choosing your torque converter! There is much more to torque converter science and many good resources available abroad for the inquiring mind!
For better acceleration with a stock engine, we would suggest a torque converter with an 1800-2000 rpm stall range. Anything higher than this will cause excessive heat in the transmission leading to potential premature failure.
This is great information, I found my self LOL half way thru the video everytime he said "go ahead"
Thanks for watching!
Good afternoon, I have an edelbrock performer kit, for a 302, 81 of a bronco, they estimate 320 hp and 260 foot pounds of torque between 2000 and 4000 rpm (5500 rpm max). It has a 3-speed c6 box, standard differential and 33 wheels, I need to replace the torque converter, I appreciate your suggestion to choose the right one for these characteristics, the camshaft indicates, intake duration 204 degrees, exhaust duration 214 degrees, elevation intake .448", exhaust elevation .472", lobe separation 112 degrees, intake center line 107 degrees, vacuum 16", thank you very much and congratulations for the videos, they are of great help to incorporate knowledge.
The new camshaft will actually be the dictating factor in selecting the correct converter. Please supply the camshaft part number or specifications of the new cam so that we can make an accurate suggestion, hope to hear back from you soon!
I bought the Comp cam 07-503-8 for my 97 lt1 from summit now I'm looking into the stall converter. I've talked with a customer service rep. at summit on this but i was told its not the right one I need. I have an 87 year 700r4, 373 gears and run 275-60-15. What's best for my set up? Thanks
A high stall convertor is used in drag racing because it allows the engine RPM to reach efficient RPM before launch. A drag race engine makes peak horsepower HP and torque TQ at two different RPM points. Most efficient start RPM or Stall Speed is to be 200-300 RPM over peak torque RPM.
For instance dragster engine makes peak torque @ 5800 rpm, so I have a 6100 stall convertor.
Great job explaining that. Glad you stated about the range and all the variables. That does make more sense. And I like the part about stalling at 500 rpm higher than camshaft . Also the part about choosing a converter that will stall below highway cruise rpm. Did not know that one.
The “Impeller pump” is a welded part of the Torque Converter outer case or Dome as your refer to it. The Stator splines onto the larger shaft on the front of the transmission an sits between the Impeller and Turbine. The Turbine is splined onto the actual input shaft of the transmission and turns the inner workings of the transmission.
By the way I bought a transgo shift kit from you guys to put in when I do the build. You guys have excellent service!
A converter with a slightly higher than stock stall would be the right choice for your application. I suggest you go with a Summit brand converter part number SUM-G2704-12 ($229.95) for the best performance increase.
Thanks to you I was able to pick proper cams , torque converter wheel and tire size without guessing but at highway speed how much rpm above stall seed should you be a lot or a little or somewhere in the middle I used jegs calculator and came up with two gear options 4.11 which is about 300 rpm above stall(start) with my planed setup or 4.56 gears that are about 600 rpm above I also read your comments and I realized I'll need to upgrade my transmission cooler
A torque converter with roughly a 3,000 rpm stall rating likely would be the best choice for your combination. I suggest going with a part number HUP-GM30 ($329.95) converter.
A torque converter with a stall between 2,300 - 2,500 rpm would be the right choice for your Trans Am. If your vehicle still has the stock transmission (4L60E) in it, Hughes makes a converter that matches up very well. The part number for this torque converter is HUP-22-25L ($369.95).
I couldn't help but notice 7:51 into the video his beard grew and his hair got messy he even started sweeting. He probably didn't like to put all of his knowledge on video now he can get fired and the video used as a training vid. Thanks for the video buddy.
Summit, I am trying to find an upgraded converter for a 2013 Dodge Dart 2.0L with Power-tech 6F24. Here is some information to assist in this:
Displacement - 1,995 cc
Compression ratio - 10.2:1
Cam profile - Dual-Overhead / DOHC
Injector size - 36 mm
Transmission model year - 2013
Gear Ratios - 1st - 4.21 / 2nd - 2.64 / 3rd - 1.80 / 4th - 1.39 / 5th - 1.00 / 6th - 0.77
Rearend gear ratio - 3.20 (final-drive ratio)
the torque rating is only capable of 185 ft-lb of torque and I know a lot of 2.4 and 2.0 guys are coming close to hitting that limiter with tunes and bolt on upgrades. The 2.4L stock from factory is already pushing, 174 lb-ft, and with only 185 ft-lbs available from the power-tech automatic, there is little room for growth. Let me know if you need any other information in regards to the Dart, I will try and help out as much as possible with the information I have. I think if we are able to get a past the stock 185 ft-lb torque rating on the power-tech a lot of others will see the potential in the automatic and the Dart.
How can I tell when my torque Converter is bad and it's not the transmission?
A converter with a stall around 2,400 - 2,600 rpm would be the best choice for your combination. We suggest going with a Hughes HUP-22-25L converter which matches your combination very well. Thanks for watching! Please let us know if you have any additional questions :)
Some of this info is incorrect if you use a lock-up converter.. I know a guy who put a TCI 3000 stall converter in his 2007 mustang GT. He can footbrake stall it to 2500. He has 355 gears and it cruises at about 1800. He has been running it on the street and bracket races almost every weekend and has never had a problem in years and years. His is a multi disk LOCK_UP converter.
I learned one lesson, don't go by the advertised stall rating. Bought a B&M 2400 and it stalled pretty much on the money. Had to have it repaired during race season and replaced it with a Summit one that was advertised @ 3000, but it actually only stalled @ 2200. Boy, was that ever a let down. The B&M is back in it now. Anyone want the Summit converter ? Very low mileage. Probably only 25-50 miles on it. (Torqueflite 727)
It's a RANGE, not a specific number. They said that in the video like 10 times. But 800rpm is a bit too much. Baybe + or - 300rpm would be fine, but not 800.
moparnutjim still have it? 😂
moparnutjim what is for. Im looking for one
Assuming the car is street driven and the “Torque Converter Lock up” feature is still being used, we would recommend that you use a 2400-2600 stall speed for best results.
Watching in earnest. My big questions: Best rear gear and TQ stall/model with just a tune and CAI. Peak torque stock is 4250rpm. I've read two trains of thought: 1. Get a TC that stalls at or close to the peak. 2. Get a TC that stalls at 500-700 rpm below the peak. No racing(?), just street-highway. 2004 Mercury Marauder. Torque Peak stock at 4250 rpm. Stock stall rating: 2850 to 3011 rpm.
We have a few additional questions that we would like to ask you. This is a bit of a complex topic that would be better to discuss with our tech line. Please give our tech line a call at 1-330-630-0240 so we can give you the best suggestion. Thank you for watching and we hope to hear from you soon!
I listen to these types of videos for entertainment only. I bought a B&M 3500 stall converter and it worked on my 76 Nova stalling to 3200-3500. This was what I expected. Both cars about the same. Then bought a Summit brand and put it in my S10 with a 400hp 406, broke the tires lose at 1800-2100. Now some people would say thats because the S10 was lighter. I don't thing so. These test were done sitting still holding the brake. There is no way for my converter to tell the difference between my tire size, vehicle weight or any other factors. B&M says 33200-3500 that is what you get. Off brand converters you will never know what you're gonna get. So, the next converter I bought was a BossHog converter from summit. This one pulled the same crap on me, it broke the tires lose at 1800 to 2000 rpm; Had a talk with the company in Muscle Shoals they went into vehicle weight, gear ratio, horse power and their usual bullshit. Sorry, I don't buy those concepts! In the end the BossHog converter loosened up and managed to make it up to 3200-3300 in my S10. But I still don't buy into all the science they say goes into a converter. My 2 cents. Buy quality first and you wont be disappointed. It's all about buying a quality product in the beginning. You get what you pay for.
I'd say the problem was with the rear brakes in your S10!
C4, okay - thank you. Please consider the following: How aggressive do you want to be - how much efficiency are you willing to give up? Your gear choice sort of indicates where you are headed, but I do not want to read between the lines.And, what is your tire diameter in inches? I appreciate the P-metric information but please measure for me.
What converter would y’all recommend for a 2014 6.2 procharged silverado?
THANK YOU! omg, my cuda is nonstop overheat on the hwy even in cold with a new radiator. now I know why. 2.73 gears and 27" tires equals 2200rpm @ 65. NEVER gets above the 2400 stall converter (cam is rated for 2000). Time for a rear gear change!
Thanks Summit for the help. I knew the gear ratio was not high enough but with a 3 speed and no OD, I wasn't sure if I would just be constructing a gas hog. I plan on going to a different tranny, then the rear end will be upgraded. My F150 has a 3.73, so I know what a difference it makes. Thanks again.
I have a 1970 C10, it differently has a after market cam installed. the dealer that I got it from doesn't know what cam was put in before, my mechanic installed a fuel injector system because of the carburetor just wasn't cutting it, but I have great cruising speeds but terrible acceleration, it's time to upgrade the converter, wish me luck
thank you so much that was absolutely fantastic level of education and just such a short amount of time. I am searching for a torque converter upgrade for my 2003 F150 but after this video it seems like I should order OEM tour converter so not to screw anything up. Unless there are some F150 guys out there that no for a fact there is a good torque converter upgrade for better performance
I was going to go ahead and and watch this video, but I had to go ahead and go. Later, I will go ahead watch it, if I don't go ahead with something else.
I want mine changed to a higher end torque because in the summer, the oil gets too hot and causes slipping and also the engine goes any where from 1100 RPM to 1700 RPM just getting on a Hwy. That is way to high from my learning and it came that way even after having the trans rebuilt and modified after the inner bell cracked. Less engine wear and better mileage is what I'm looking at. No pulling trailers.
Perfect timing! Thank you for your feedback and your business!
I've a Chevy Step-Side with a 427 Rat with a mild cam pushing a quality 3800 - 4000 ish stall torque converter. The transmission is a 3 speed 400 Turbo with 4:11 gears in the rear and 33" tires. The truck, I suspect, was properly built for very serious bush-bashing. I would like the Rat to be able to go to sleep on the highway (overdrive, likely), and be fun to drive around town. It drives city & highway alright already, but I feel it could hook up sooner, shift more positively/immediately. Putting along at 60 mph, it feels well hooked up at 3200 rpm or so, but the 427 makes so much torque, I feel it doesn't need to be spinning like that. I want to be able to do it all. I want to drive it in the city, the highway, and the track. Slush-boxes are beautiful when you get them right, but so confusing to get there. Oh, hell … I'll probably just put a 5 or 6 speed in the thing, and get on with it - haha. Any advice? It is a set up full of contrasts. An interesting puzzle.
Diesel Ready,
It really depends on whether or
not you want to keep an automatic or switch to a manual. You’re going to have
about the same cash outlay either way and both will require a new driveshaft
and crossmember. Give us a call and we’ll help you put a parts list together. 1-330-630-0240. We look forward to your call. Thanks for watching!
While we are at it do you know the weight of your Fairmont? Has it been lightened? Is this a street only, dual purpose or entry level race only vehicle? Let me know, I would like to help
I didn't know Tim Tebow worked for Summit?
Ok I need a little more help please. I have 3.90 gears and I'm currently building a 440 with an old ERSON .486 dual lift for intake & exhaust. Well, It's ready to be installed now actually. And at 55 miles per hour the RPM is right around 2000 -2200. which is about as high as care to go for cruising. Curious as if u have suggestion for RPM stall. Thinking 2000 is plenty but I'm a little unsure. It's my first car build in almost 30 yrs and I just don't fully trust my judgment anymore. Any advise u have would be great.
Guido Sarducci, I was a GM mechanic back in the day, I went to a 373 gear, If you have the HP it's enough to light them up and lets you work on suspension and tires to get the power to the ground, but still let's you drive, I don't like going to a 4 gear unless its block to block racing, I know how fast that can be but it's too tall for me.
thank you...I went way too high a gear ratio and stall. I went with 2400 stall but it hooks @ around 2700 with this new motor. It's not really good for anything but burn outs and city light to light. (fun for what it is, but gets old fast) Plus I don't need any tickets - I've been warned twice already. I regret my choices. I can't hardly go anywhere. I'm dropping everything down. I'm fully comfortable going w/ 3.55 rear and 2000 stall. It was a learning experience for sure. I appreciate your input & taking the time very much just the same.
Guido Sarducci Choosing cam, rear end gear and converter is a bitch, I was a GM mechanic and my uncle who built pro stock machines still helped me pick an incorrect combination, I'm thinking 355 gear and 2 grand stall is now falling on the lame side, 355 is Too much of a grandpa gear, That's when breaking them loose and hooking up(wrinkle wall) becomes hard, I would go a tad TALLER, keep that converter up above mild 2 grand-ish stalls, not much poop there, Oh fuck I'm no professor, Just don't go too mild, Like to meat up at a red light some night.
Yes this is very good but what about lockup torque converters? They are becoming very popular. I hope to see a part 2 so they can be explained.
Quick question 🤔 do I need to adjust my to tq convert if I changed my tire and rim size? I went from a 17inch rim to a 20inch chrome rim. I don't notice a acceleration drop do to having a jms pedalmax that eliminate the drive wire delay. I have it set at 75%. I tried it at 100% once. And it was to touchy. 75% is the kinda sweet spot.
I overhauled my engine in my 1997 silverado with stock parts and now my transmission stalls. But before the repair,I didnt have that issue.Like I would accelerate ant I would be gone!...zoom!!
Could it be that my engine has gained more power due to the repairs that the torque converter now doesnt respond fast enough??
What size/stall speed would you suggest for a 1989 G30 Class C RV that has a TH400 3-speed transmission. weighs roughly 10,000 lbs and 12,000 pounds if towing a small trailer? The engine is a new Chevrolet L05 TBI 350 crate engine rated at 210 hp at 4000 RPM and 300 lb-ft torque at 2800. Engine specs are: 9.4 to 1 compression ratio
, Camshaft with 165/174 duration at 0.050, 0.382 In./0.402 ex. lift, 1.94 in. intake/1.50 in. exhaust valves, cylinder heads (65.3cc chambers). The rear axle ratio is 4.10. I see towing torque converters with a 1200 RPM stall speed. Would this be suggested for this application or will it cause poor performance and bogging and stalling when putting into gear? Should I just use the stock converter?
Yes, there are 2 notches in the snout of the torque converter. When the converter is properly installed; those notches will engage the drive lugs in the pressure pump on the front of the transmission turning it at engine/flywheel speed.
I want maximum elapsed time what brand and converter stall do you think?
3,570 pound leaf spring car, with me 160 pounds total weight = 3,730
275-60 R15 tire 27.7 OD.
350 turbo trans just shift kit and manual valve body with Electric shifter. Trans not finished yet. I plan on installing 400 turbo with trans brake with Gear Vendor or 4L80E trans brake or something else very strong with a low gear set.
4.11 spool rear gear in now and 4.56 new chunk will try 4.56 some time
Use to stall 4,000 9.5" converter stall but converter broke only goes to 3,000 now. Still goes down track but would be way off at track. I bought the best converter at the time won't say what brand of converter.
Car has about 7,000 miles on it. I'd have to look to be for sure. Mostly street and some track.
Engine power on Dyno no power adder yet
700 HP at 5,600
710 TQ at 4000
572 BBC
So couldn’t you run a higher stall than your cruising speed if you also install a torque converter lock up switch? I have a 77 Chevy k10 with an 1800-2000 or so stall and I would like to increase the stall for a better launch but it cruises at 1800 rpms at 60 mph. It also tries to die when put into gear but I’m running a comp cams Xtreme energy 268 cam. It starts making power around 15-1600 rpms
Our tech department has a few questions for you before a suggestion can be made. Would you mind giving our tech department a call? 1-330-630-0240. Thank you for watching!
I need a torque converter for my bicycle, However I can't find a torque converter with a stalll speed of 90 rpms
After looking at your combination, I suggest going with a converter that stalls around 3,000 rpm. We hope this helps! Please let us know if you have any additional questions.
One thing I dont understand at all is the BBC vs SBC explanation at about 9:30 . If the big block has more low-end torque, wouldn't it need a lower stall range than a SBC which produces less low-end torque?
Since the BBC Engines powerband starts peaking so early on in the RPM range, wouldn't it be more beneficial to lock up the converter earlier on to get as much of that maximum torque to the wheels? Thanks
Hello,
Brother if you can suggest me, I do have a gmc c25 that I swapped L77 6.0 in it. With BTR stage 4 package cam. Denali manifold, K&N cold intake. Upgraded pushing in the rockers, oil pump by mailing. Long tube header 3” 1/-7/8 with full catback by magnaflow. Upgraded 4l80E kit by tci up 800 hp. I tuned it and made up to 469 HP. What torque converter stall will be perfect for me ? Thanks
I would have sworn that the factory motor was a 425. However if this is a factory piece then you have the THM425 transmission for the front wheel drive. If that is the case then please use the stock torque converter. Good luck.
So wonder if your brake and flash stall are at the same point?
In my 96 Ram with 156K on the original trans, I can hold the brake (and use E-brake to prevent wheelspin) and hit about 2200rpm. When I punch it from a dead stop, I also flash to about 2200rpm on stock diameter tires and 4.10 gear, truck at ±4800lbs.
Why would they be the same?
Very good information since I'm about to buy a new converter... :-)
What do I do for an LS swap with a 6L80 that over powers the brakes when you put it in drive? Should I get a torque converter with a higher stall speed or maybe a 4l60 with a lower 1 gear ratio?
What would be the best rpm stall for a 5.3 with a 230/236 114 LSA with a 4L60 transmission and 3.73 gears
I’m interested in buying one of your brand converters. Do you guys have technicians that can help choose which torque converter will work for my setup?
You will want to go with a converter that stalls around 2,000 rpm. I suggest go with with one of our Summit converters part # SUM-G2704-12 ($229.95) for the best performance. Thanks for watching and please let us know if you have any additional questions.
this is a very helpful video. just learning about these and want to make right choice. thank you.
I like the sounds of a stroker LT1. Be sure to employ all of the essentials involved in building the 383 stroker. Be careful once you start getting past the 500 HP level with the factory block. I’m not saying that it can’t be done because it can - I’m just saying have all of your ducks in a row and be careful. Good luck and thanks for watching. Please let us know if you have any additional questions!
Hey Summit Racing I have a 2016 ram 1500
Tsp stage 1 cam kit
Headers
3.21 rear gear
On 35/12.50/20
And I still tow very often was wondering what converter you would recommend thanks
Ive always used a stock converter no matter what engine is in there. I like to build old classic Chevy Trucks and currently have a 66 Ford F100 project plan. I was looking at a 390 FE crate engine at 420HP and it says a stall is required with that engine. Why does the engine need a stall if I have no need to rev the engine up so I can get a big launch??? Im not building a drag racing truck....I just want a powerful engine to play with on the street. I dont need it to run up to 3000 RPM before it takes off. So why would it say a stall converter is " REQUIRED"??? When I touch the pedal I want it to take off immediately and go llke every other truck ive had. This 390 Ford big block will have more torque than all the Chevy small blocks ive had bolted to turbo 350 transmissions with stock converters. It should have gobs of torque right from the start so I dont get why a stall is " required" for that engine. Im just ignorant on the subject because ive never used one or had manual transmissions so please forgive me. I just want a 66 Ford truck high power cruiser....not a drag truck.
You only need a stall if you are running a radical cam. It lets the engine idle when stopped.
thanks for the above response, one more question... the notch in the front of the torque converter, does it lock into the actual gear of the transmission pump?...
Never been satisfied with anything I ever bought from summit always had better luck with OEM stuff been a mechanic for 30 years
Hi Donnie, we are sorry you feel that way. We do carry a ton of OE parts as well. Let us know if we can help you in any way.
Looking at the combination you will be putting together, your vehicle will require a minimum of a 2,500 stall converter to perform well. I suggest going with a Hughes converter part # HUP-24-25 ($249.95) for the best performance. Please let us know if you have any additional questions. Thanks for watching!
The video was okay but I would have liked more actual recommendations for different types and sizes of engines and or vehicles
Hi. What will happen if I fit an automatic transmission and torque converter from a 2.5 litre V6 car into a car that has a 1.8 litre 4 cylinder? The final drive will be from a manual 4 cylinder.
This video helped a ton. What size do you recommend for the following specs:
Auto 01 Mustang GT (supercharged and cammed)
4.10s
I have comp cams stage II, with operating range 1800-5800
Tires are 315/35-17
I recently purchased a brand new 350 Chevy SB crate engine (part number 19420880). I have no idea on how to determine what the RPM starting range is on the camshaft that the engine came with. I am using a TH350 transmission along with the new engine. Could you tell me what torque converter I would need for this engine?
Hey! We would be happy to help, we just need a little more information about your engine/vehicle combination before we can suggest anything. Can you give us the following information:
- Camshaft specs
- Vehicle type
- Rear gear ratio
- How the vehicle mainly will be used
I have a 1966 valiant with 360 small block around 400 ho and tq have .486 lift cam 279 intake duration 296 exhaust duration .473 exhaust lift 107 lobe separation 20-600-4 cam # it is used for street mostly track a few times 1/8 mile frame connectors auto 904 built gear ratio is 3.55 8.75 rear end compression is around 9.5 any help would be great
I am having a hard time picking the right stall for my set up....i have a restored 71 chevelle with a 6.0 LS with efi (not carb converted) and a 4l60e with 4.11 gears....car weight is roughly 3900lbs ....cam operating range is 2500-6500rpm....do I need a 2500-3000rpm stall converter, or a 2000-2500rpm stall converter.....this is only my second hotrod build with an automatic trans....i usually go with manual transmissions but I'm getting old and I wanted this chevelle to be a nice cruiser that my wife can drive without smoking my clutch or giving us whiplash...the last time I built a hotrod with an automatic it was a 70 Nova with a 355ci th350 and 3.73 gears....it had a comp 280/480 with a range of2000-6000 and I used a stall I purchased from a friend who said it was either a 3000 or a 3500rpm stall converter...he couldn't remember but he said it would be close enough....well it wasnt even close to being applicable and the car felt like crap! By the time it started moving it was halfway thru the engine power curve....or at least it felt that way. It was so off the mark that I ended up removing the motor and stall and dropping in a 290hp stock 350ci crate motor and a stock converter.....the crate motor with its 290hp made the nova faster than it was with the 355ci that I built....it had fresh reworked 041 iron heads with some minor port and bowl work done by a very reputable shop, all good valves and springs and titanium retainers and locks....zero decked with flat top pistons...steel crank and aftermarket 5.7 rods ...the 280/480 cam and an old torker intake and 750cfm 4150.,...it wouldn't be jack shit these days but back in 1995 it was a good little daily driver build....the problem wasn't the motor it was the wrong stall....i sold the motor to my brother who put it in his 4sp 81 z28 and it ran great....but in my nova with that awful stall it was a turd.....i do not want to make the same mistake with my chevelle....if anyone takes the time to read all this I'd really like to hear your thoughts on what you think would be the best stall converter size/range would be for my is swapped chevelle....i mentioned above the trans and rear gears....if it helps my motor is a 2004 lq4 with fresh 243 heads with good valves and hardware....compression ratio is close to 10.5 ...cam is 221/232 -.545/.545 112+5 with a 2500-6500 power range....tbss intake (for now)....ls7 lifters/ ls9 valve springs....7.400 pushrods...long tube headers...36lb injectors...92mm TB....trunion upgraded rocker arms.....pretty much stock but should be over 400hp....didnt try to build a racecar.....just a good cruiser with a good stereo to take the ol lady out on country rides on the weekends and do a good burn outs.....i just want to make sure I choose the right stall this time so it isn't a dog like my nova was for awhile.
For a heavy car with taller gears I would stick with something in the 2400-2700 range like this Summit Racing Torque converter.
www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-700338
@@SummitRacing I took your advice and and bought the summit pro ls converter part number sum-700338.....i hope it does well....if not than in going to buy a Ouija board and tell the demons you been talk smack about their mama.
Hello, I am DIY replacing an engine on 2018 Hyundai Tucson. I've separated the transmission. But having trouble removing the torque converter from the engine and caused a slight crack on the tip facing in towards the transmission. Is that going to be a huge issue? Or must replace?
A torque converter with a stall of around 2,500 rpm would be the best choice for your combination. Assuming that your truck has either a 4L60E or 4L80E transmission, I suggest go with a HUP-22-25EL ($419.95) for the 4L60E or a HUP-22-25L ($569.95) if it has a 4L80E transmission. Please let us know if you have any additional questions :)
So my echo has bigger the stock tires higher stall converter would be better
This is great. This is amazing video
What about lockup tq converters? Like in a camaro, is a 2800-3000 stall possible?, with lockup converter, and 3.45 gears? Cruse at about 1800 rpm , its a street car, 385 cid. 11:1, comp nos hp cam . 2800-6800, but I would like to cruse at 1800-2k,
What is the transmission - C4, AOD, AODE?
How aggressive do you want to be - how much efficiency are you willing to give up? Your gear choice sort of indicates where you are headed, but we do not want to read between the lines. Let us know, we would like to help.
Please Help...1991 C 1500...What will cause my 700r4 to lose reverse in a short 1 mile distance from a cold start or very slow to go in reverse but will slip if i give it gas and i lose O/D in short distance say 1 mile and trans will slip if going up a hill and steep grade and then i hear a shutter i assume is coming from the toque converter. When cold you take off and gun it it dont slip at all. Does like it should but only last a short time then i lose od and reverse and will slip if i put small amount of throttle. Please help me if you can. I am a poor 60 yr old man and trying to fix this on my own from another trans i pulled less than a yr ago because it wouldnt shift right no matter the adjustment on the tv cable. Got to were it took 40 plus mile a hr b4 it would shift from 1st to second. Im trying to fix one from two. Dont matter witch one long as I can get back on the road. Anyway I hope you see this and can help me. I cant afford to pay anybody to help me so I really would appreciate any help you can give me. Thank You...
So if I have 3:73 gears running 275/55/20 and camshaft 2500 -3000rpm powerband... I need a 298mm billet lockup converter and what stall should I get for my 4l60e
Ok, regarding stall below highway cruising rpm, that is irrelevant if using a lockup type converter, correct? Say my engine needs a 3500 stall for the build, but gets driven on the highway at 75mph at 2500rpm, if using a lockup style, that's still fine, correct?
Correct
I'm rebuilding a chrysler 400 big block w/ keith black 9 to 1's, stock heads/rods/crank. Very short stroke for a big block, so i'm looking at alot of torque with quick revs too.
Ideal camshaft is around .500 to .530-ish lift, good duration, power from 2,000 rpm to 6,500 rpm, like an edelbrock performer RPM or mopar purple cam.
Torqueflite w/ 8-3/4 rear, in a 1973 Plymouth, weighs about two tons. What sort of stall would you suggest for daily driver and the occasional quarter mile pass?
so at cruise speed you say you want the TC to stall out or it will be slipping but that dosent make sense because at cruise speed the clutches will be locked so there is no fluid coupling occurring anyway...
a friend of mine is putting a 650 HP LS motor with a 3500 RPM stall , into a car with a 2.7 back end . Hes a know-all who doesnt listen , but how will that affect it ? seems to me its going to be driving around everywhere slipping , as well as slowing the accelaration due to being so tall geared
Hi, would I have any issues by going from a low stall converter to a Med stall converter?I am replacing my transmission, and the replacement transmission has this converter, same specs as my old one but with higher stall,
DLPF 2420 9245
TC-GM35CW Torque converter, 700-R4, 4L60E, 30 Spline, Medium Stall (Woven carbon)
Woven Carbon Clutch, Codes: DCNF, DLNF, DLPF Medium Stall (1600-1800)
12" diameter, 298mm, Pilot 1.703", 3 Pads, 30 spline, PWM with ECCC my old converter has these specs: (lower stall)
DHPF2420 6163
TC-GM33CW Torque converter, 700-R4, 4L60E, 30 Spline, Low Stall (Woven carbon)
Woven Carbon Clutch,Codes: DHPF, DHPG, DKNF, DKPF Low Stall (1400-1600)
12" diameter, 298mm, Pilot 1.703", 3 Pads, 30 spline, PWM with ECCC
i have a 2001 5.3 that has 3.73 gears and going to be adding a cam here pretty soon what type of converter would i need for a street/strip install it is a daily driver.
Thanks. This video was very helpful.
Thank you for watching!
1956 Chevy 2 dr wagon SBC350 325Hp Th 350 stock 56 rear end 3,200 lbs … was talkin to hot rod son he sai 1,600-2,100 low Stall any advice .please
I had a 10.4 in. factory converter it would "stall" @ 1,800 behind a 273 behind a 440 it went to 2,500. It is cubic ins. and torque that makes it work. Have all the info. BEFORE you order the parts.
No problem! Let us know if you have any additional questions. Good luck!
My cruise is at about 1500 or so, so you are saying if I get a 2800 stall speed,
it would never get into overdrive?
My car has two symptoms listed Poor acceleration and lunging tires 26" high, rear end 3.25:1 sbf 331, 650 holley, performer RPM mani cam is a 268. Long tubes, xpipe duals C4. Is this enough info to recommend a torque converter The car (67 'stang) is very fast at top end but the throttle must be advanced slowly during acceleration because you can feel the car not using all the fuel being delivered at low end. Thanks
So if my cam is rate it to 1800 rpm, should i get a 400 more of a converte?
Your website says a stall at 2200-2400 would be best or my cam. I saw you guys have a 2000-2400 and 2400 to 2800. Which would be better?
I have a 94 camaro z28 with an intake and magnaflow exhaust. My plans for my car are headers, cam, heads, and porting my lt1 from 350 to 383 and putting in 3.73 gears. Its a 4l60e that's being built to handle 600hp. I was thinking a yank ss3600. Opinions?
I have a 68 GTO, stock 350hp 400 c.i. engine, stock camshaft, TH400, and a 3.42 rear end. I don't know what stall speed the torque converter in it now has, but I ordered a 1400 rpm aprox. Stall speed converter for it. Does this sound like a good combination?