Thanks for the great educational video, and a huge thanks for not ruining it with crappy background music while you're talking. I don't know why some people are compelled to add annoying background music throughout the video.
When my dad explained a torque converter to me in 1964, I was amazed. Now almost 60 yrs L8R, I see this vid & I'm still amazed! Thanks so much for making & posting this.
I read a number of explanations over the years from 1979 to maybe 2005 and none of them mentioned the one-way clutch. But it never made sense the way the stator was said to divert the fluid and add to the torque unless there was also something to stop it from spinning backward. Finally, in 2005, I just added "one-way clutch" to a Google search on the subject and found a more complete explanation than I'd ever seen before. I guess I could have just asked a transmission shop, but the few I'd had reason to visit seemed too busy for educational questions.
This is a great video. Years ago I had a Rover 800 2.0 litre with ZF HP14 4-speed automatic gearbox. They were sold as Sterling in the US and I expect they had the 2.7 litre Honda engine over there. As I was having the engine and gearbox rebuilt I took the opportunity to have a custom-made torque converter. I told the torque converter company that I wanted the lowest stall speed possible. They said they could do it, but it wouldn't work as the engine would stall as soon as it was put in gear. I went away to think about it, and the maths involved, and I concluded that they were wrong, so I asked them to go ahead and build it that way. They supplied it to the mechanic who was putting the gearbox back together, and after having supplied it, someone higher up in the company rang him up and said, "We're sure it isn't going to work, so if you return it now before it's fitted, we'll put it back to normal at no extra cost". Clearly, the discussion about it had filtered up and someone more senior had eventually taken a look at the spec after it had already been despatched. I went away and thought about it again and simulated it in my head, and I concluded that I was simply going outside their normal envelope of experience, and that they were extrapolating linearly outside of their experience instead of in proportion to the cube root, which is indicated by the maths. Plus, I'd reached the point where I had to know if I was right or not. So I told the mechanic to go ahead and fit it. I've got to say that it was almost perfectly how I expected it to be, in that there was a bit of an extra 'kerthunk' when it went into Drive, and the engine vibrated a little more on tickover when stationary, as the torque converter was pulling harder at tickover, but it didn't even come close to stalling the engine. Driving through traffic was lovely, because a lot of the time I only needed to take my foot off the brake to keep up with slow traffic as it would creep at a much higher speed than normal. To make decent progress I only had to breathe on the accelerator and the first to second gear change was extra silky because then engine was revving so slowly when it happened. Commuting right across London at the time I managed to average 35mpg over a tankful, which is pretty good considering that it was a 2-litre, long and relatively heavy car, driving through one of the heaviest traffic areas of the UK for most of my journey each day. But I was especially delighted that my experiment had worked, and the experienced, qualified professionals were wrong. The downside is that at the traffic lights Grand Prix it was definitely slower, because the torque converter was holding the engine speed down to a lower speed all the way through each gear, but if you use a car for normal commuter driving and not racing, then a lower-stall-speed torque converter is much nicer to drive with.
I watched several other videos on stall speed and was nothing but disappointed. All of those people need to come and watch this and get an education from you professor. Fantastic video and 100% convinced me of who I need to go to for parts.
Let me simplify this for everyone....the front spinny thing uses fluid to make the back spinny thing go around and around. The engine speed required for the front spinny thing to spin the back spinny thing when you mash the accelerator thingy as fast as you can is called the stall speed. I don't know why they call it stall speed because it doesn't stall when its spinning.
Thank you for getting right to the point here and being actually educational. I know very little about how automatic transmissions work and i want to understand more so i’m gonna binge this whole series
As a student, I appreciate information that I can understand. This video helped me understand stall speed and the factors that influence its variability. Thank you.
Oh baby, this video packed a punch, I learned a lot, especially that I should call for recommendations even on a mils street combo, I finally get it. Excellent.
Nice to know RUclips listens to or watches my text messages..... 5 hours ago I had this exact discussion with my buddy about stalls and tq converters lol
I am getting started on my 1971 Nova build. Just got my 383 stoker built, I was thinking in my mind I need a 2,500 stall. I wake up this morning and this is the first video on my recommend list. LMAO 😂
I was glad to hear that about the foot brake stall. I don't like power braking at all and don't do it. I've taught my sons it's an embarrassment. If the car won't spin the wheels on it's own free will then build a bigger engine.
Turbo hydramatic 425s had a variable pitch stator. VERY efficient. Shame they quit making them. Caterpillar hydrostatic transmissions had a unique torque converter design... Ever seen one ?? Great video Sir.
Great video! The only question I have is how much a typical car torque converter waster energy (in kW) when the transmission in on Drive, the engine idling and the car is hold on brakes? Does different stall speed affect this?
I've got a .060" over 427 12.5:1 CR, Single plane intake with a 800 cfm dbl pmp Holly. Solid lifter cam, Advertised Duration: 304 Duration at .050" : 258 Lobe Separation : 108 .615" lift, 400 THM 4:56 12-bolt posi in a 4000lb 72 C/10. Can you recommend what stall speed I need? This truck wont see much street, track truck mostly...Thanks!
@@HughesPerformance NO, thank you for building quality parts. That's something we lost in this country over the years is quality, but you guys understand quality. I inspected the 2500 converter and it's great! Keep up the good work. 👍
Not usually as an automatic transmissions clutches are internal. And the new "manumatic" type automatics simply allow to specifically select an individual gear. Actual manual transmissions do not use a torque converter, just a clutch. To have both would require a massive bell housing and a very complicated hydraulic system from the transmission. Also, why would you want both? The complexety of an automatic is enough for most people. Why add to that by throwing an additional fly wheel clutch to the mix.
Lock-up torque converters first began use by US domestic manufacturers in 1978. A lock-up converter features a clutch inside the torque converter that applies at cruising speeds typically around 35 - 40 MPH depending on the application. This feature was originally incorporated by OEM's to help increase fuel efficiency and reduce engine emissions. The aftermarket has since adapted lock-up converter technology to some extreme high horsepower drag racing applications.
In the early days of automatics, there were actually Chryslers with a pedal-operated clutch and a fluid coupling (a torque converter without the stator). Some shifted automatically between 2 speeds, but you had to use the clutch to switch between "ranges". They were probably less confusing to drive than to explain. The comments on this video explain it better than I ever could. ruclips.net/video/p-wfIrtVUmk/видео.html Also, VW had something called an "Automatic Stick Shift" in the 1960s, with a torque-converter, a vacuum-operated clutch and a 3 speed manual gearbox. The clutch automatically disengaged if the transmission lever moved so the driver just had to shift. Both of these seemed kind of kludgy, but they still could idle in gear, and could be driven in high gear with no shifting as long as you weren't in a hurry.
I have a 72 350 motor 4 Main with a turbo 400 miles it and I can’t get the torque converter with the torque transmission through a belt was a shift kit what do I need in the torque in the transmission it would work with that transmission
So my truck makes 265 full at 2000 rpm. (Ford 300) if I foot brake it it does about 1500 rpm. Is there anyway to determine how to determine my stall speed based on that?. Its totally stock E4OD transmission
Maximum stall speed is determined by whatever RPM the engine will flash to upon initial acceleration under load whether that be from a stop or very slow roll. You can transition to wide open throttle immediately at the same time of releasing the foot brake at 1,500 RPM, observe the tachometer while doing so, and the initial flash RPM is the maximum stall speed of your converter. You'll probably only notice another 200 - 300 RPM of flash over your current footbrake stall speed with that combination.
i really appreciate this video, in short the more you slow down the fluid coupling from happening/ efficiency the higher the stall speed/ the more torque can be output by engine without overriding torque converter, trans, etc. Thank you so much finally understandable. :)
what stall do you recomend ? I have a 1982 dodge d150 short bed with mildly built 318 with stock 30 over flat top pistions with factory 360 Hipo cam . 727 auto none lockup with racing shift kit and rear is 8-1/4 with 3:55 gears . the front 15 x 7 with 235 /75/15 and rear is 15x 8-1/2 with 255/75/15 I was thinking 2000 stall ?????
Are there any markings/#s on torque converter to know if it's stock or performance ? (Part # ?) I bought a used C-4 with a converter. Was told it is 4,000 stall. Haven't found any #s to know if it's stock or performance.
very good presentation thanks for posting your host of knowledge i have a few questions id like to ask i will try giving you guys a call early next week thank you
Our part number 25-30LHD torque converter would work well with your combination. This is our Pro Street series billet single disc 265mm model featuring an advertised stall speed rating of 3,000 RPM. This converter works really well in high performance trucks; offering a nice overall blend between great drivability along with a significant improvement in overall acceleration and performance as compared to an OEM torque converter.
Can you talk about or make a video about convertor slip ?? I lost mph and et as my convertor aged. I still don’t understand why it happened and how to prevent it
Good afternoon, I have an edelbrock performer kit, for a 302, 81 of a bronco, they estimate 320 hp and 260 foot pounds of torque between 2000 and 4000 rpm (5500 rpm max). It has a 3-speed c6 box, standard differential and 33 wheels, I need to replace the torque converter, I appreciate your suggestion to choose the right one for these characteristics, the camshaft indicates, intake duration 204 degrees, exhaust duration 214 degrees, elevation intake .448", exhaust elevation .472", lobe separation 112 degrees, intake center line 107 degrees, vacuum 16", thank you very much and congratulations for the videos, they are of great help to incorporate knowledge.
Great video on understanding converters. Some shops i have spoken to ask specific engine build details is this really needed. Also is converter diameter a big factor in achieving what is needed as in smaller engines need smaller diameter for it to work. Thanks ray
Yes, when we provide a torque converter recommendation we want to know as many engine specifics as possible as well as vehicle weight, rear gear ratio, rear tire size, how the vehicle will be used, etc.
You guys do anything with the new 6 & 8 speed Chevy trans stall converter .like camaro and trucks, About 2400 stall, something to handle a 1k idle, and lock for street, I want to swap one into a older car, with older engine,
Can you tell me if there is anything like more or less hp or cam than one thinks that would cause the stall to be effected,I mean more or less than advertised?
Not going to read all the comments to see if my question is. My 3700 lbs with me in it Barracuda, 345ci LA engine is getting a 4 inch crank this winter. Have a built 904, 355 gear with a Gear Vendor unit. Now currently I cruise at 75 at 2700 rpm. How will that change with the 416 ci.. It has a tight 3000 convertor. The question is with the extra (just a guess) 60, 70 ftlbs of torque will the rpm cruising drop, stay the same or go up?
Can you make a video dedicated to the Allison 1000 TC considerations and different applications. I want a truck that can do it all. Street, track, tow/haul. I'm at 454hHP de-torqued to 800 lbs. with a 120hp tune looking at getting a transmission built and throwing in a 250hp tune for my 68mm, 10mil.stroked CP3 and 60 over injectors. Goal of 750hHP/1300TQ.
We don't get into Allison transmission builds here at Hughes, nor do we offer much for the diesel market apart from the typical billet triple disc converters and deep pans. If you're looking for hardcore diesel performance transmissions then you really need to be dealing with Suncoast.
I am Still Trying To Have My Older 7004 And My New Blue Print 383 Stroker Working Properly, I have PurchasedA Hughes 2600-2700 Stall Converter And The Engine was Surging I was Told To Unhook Plug On The Driver Side Of The Transmission .After Doing So The Engine Surge Has Gone Away But I Don't Want to Burn Up My Transmission. I Am Getting Conflicting Information On Whether Or Not This Will Happen. This Combination Is In My 55 Belair 2Dr. Htop Which I Have Owned For 51 Years And It Is A Beautiful Car! I Would Appreciate Any Assistance In Resolving This Problem! Thank You!
i have a 55 bel air with a ls3 and a brian tooley stage 2 cam, the cam is advertised to use the stock converter..... it has a 6l80e trans with 350 gears and its against the converter when i stop. What converter would you recommend for this application. Thanks, great video.
The BTR LS3 Stage 2 camshaft really works better with a higher stall torque converter. It's a great cam, but it's barely tolerable with a stock torque converter. I recommend our part number 65-25L. This is our Street Master 6L80 model that will typically provide stall speed in the range of 2,400 - 2,600 RPM with a combo like yours, will provide more favorable idling characteristics in gear, and still maintain fantastic drivability.
I have a Dodge Charger 5.7 AWD and find there's not enough stall which makes the engine not rev enough when hitting the gas fully to get the performance it should compared to a RWD... What can be done for this?
So if I have a LS swapped conversion and I feel that at idle the engine is over powering the brakes do I get a bigger converter? Or should I consider a different automatic transmission with a lower first gear ratio
i got a question for u ..i got a 1990 k5 blazer 700r trans 2000 to 2400 torque converter in it and im thinking about buying this race motor it has 12.5 to 1 sbc 355 030 over with elgin e-1090p solid flat tappet cam with scorpion 1.6 rockers for total lift of 573 intake 594 exhust can i use the torque converter i have on this engine,,..i no i got alot of things to change because it is a tbi fuel injection
What is the difference between a low hp max effort small cu in converter, like an NHRA stock eliminator like a K/SA, and say a 400hp bracket car of equal weight?
Thank you for this great explanation. I was wondering why does the slip ratio reduce as RPM increases, I.e.: if you have a flash stall of say 3,000 rpm then you have close to a 3,000 rpm difference in input shaft to output shaft speed, but once the engine reaches say 6,000 rpm the output shaft would be much closer to the input shaft speed. Thank you for explaining that centrifugal force enables the fluid to transfer more energy.
Sorry to be offtopic but does anyone know of a method to log back into an Instagram account? I stupidly lost my password. I would love any help you can give me!
@Jayce Jaime thanks so much for your reply. I found the site on google and im in the hacking process now. I see it takes quite some time so I will reply here later with my results.
do people upgrade torque converters to deal with larger mud tires ? Seems like a good idea to me. I know a lot regear. I don't hear many people talking about torque converters though which to me would make sense also.
Up to the end of the 1967 model year, GM made "switch pitch" torque converters, which increased the stall speed if the accelerator was depressed most of the way. It seemed like the best of both worlds, but I've heard it could be a reliability trouble spot. Do any aftermarket builders make switch-pitch converters today?
If you are running a converter with a stall speed of 2200 to 2600 and you are running at 65 mph on the freeway with the engine turning at 2000 rpm's at 65mpr will the torque converter, be slipping causing heat and poor efficiency?
I actually had a couple sent to me when I talked and said this is what the gearing is this is what the trans is set up as hp rating and what my customer is looking for. getting the right torque converter to every set up is always a good thing when dealing with the final set up no one wants to take back out the trans just to fix a issue
Thank you for making these videos. Curious about stall speed application. I’m guessing a high rpm hydraulic hookup would be used for drag racing where ya only care about 4-8k rpm. A slow hydraulic hookup, say 800 rpm for a Diesel tractor. Am I in the ballpark?
Thanks for your support and for commenting! We really appreciate it!! You're definitely thinking along the right lines. The vast majority of torque converters that we build for dedicated drag racing applications will typically provide a flash RPM of anywhere from 4,500 RPM to as much as 7,000 RPM and beyond, depending on the application. We tailor the necessary stall speed characteristics and converter coupling point to each specific application when it comes to our custom converter builds. Modified street-driven diesel applications will typically utilize a torque converter that only provides around 1,000 - 1,500 RPM of flash stall speed. Due to the torque output of diesel engines and the relatively low RPM ceiling, diesel applications typically need a very low coupling point in the converter. Hope this helps!!
A steel stator is ultimately stronger than an aluminum stator. That being said, modern billet aluminum stator designs are incredibly strong as well. What it really boils down to is selecting the right stator design that will provide the correct flash RPM, torque multiplication, and converter coupling characteristics for a given combination. Correctly designed steel stators will typically (though not always) offer increased flash RPM, less torque multiplication, and greater converter coupling ability when compared to similar aluminum stator models.
I really appreciate the vid..My knowledge of "High stall" is to get the engine in the sweet spot when you stab it as well as be able to idle with a large cam(low manifold vac) but the actual size of the converter is much smaller as the stall speed increases (Factory V8 converter over 3500 rated converter)....I'd like to know is that a smaller oil volume thing...
Great question!! Thanks for commenting here. Oil volume inside a torque converter does indeed play a significant role in the stall speed characteristics and coupling efficiency of a torque converter. As torque converter diameter decreases, oil volume obviously decreases as well. As oil volume decreases, there is less fluid available to offer resistance against the impeller as the engine is running as well as less leverage being generated from the impeller to the turbine due to the smaller, shorter impeller vanes. Consequently, as more engine torque is applied to the impeller, a corresponding rise in stall speed occurs. Additionally, most smaller diameter torque converter cores typically come from OEM applications that feature small engine displacement with relatively low torque output. As a result, the impeller designs commonly used with many smaller diameter torque converter cores feature more neutral or even negative impeller vane angles. As the impeller vane angle becomes more neutral or negative, stall speed increases due to the higher RPM required to create efficient fluid acceleration between the impeller and turbine.
@@sswcustomsewing4276 so if I had a six-cylinder with the same transmission and put it behind the big block it will make more torque with the big block
Great video, very informative, in depth explanation delivered in an easy to understand presentation. That said, I have to aak....what in the world is the guy with the air tool destroying? I'm no transmission expert but I find it impossible to believe any transmission requires 20 minutes of off and on grinding with an airtool. Thanks again for the video. All the best.
Hey guys. I have a 2011 Camaro SS full boltons with 3200 Circle D stall with 391 gears.it makes 380 rwhp and 400 ft lbs torque. I can't footbrake it past 1800 rpm with pushing through the brakes. Is that right? Thanks
Yes, because as he mentioned, foot-brake is your lowest read stall, because you're limited by your traction. Now if you can get your wheels to remain locked and do it again, you should be far closer to your stall speed.
There's not necessarily a "right" amount of footbrake stall speed. Flash stall speed is really what's more important. That being said, we can tune your Circle D torque converter for increased footbrake stall speed if that's something you desire.
Switch pitch torque converters can alter the stator vane angle (or "pitch") when the switch pitch feature is activated. The stall speed will increase when the feature is activated which contributes to faster engine & vehicle acceleration from a stop or low speed.
@@HughesPerformance Came to ask the same thing, I rebuilt an ST400 trans and stuck it behind a 472-inch Caddy in my rat rod but didn't fully understand how the switch-pitch function works. Thanks!
@@guardiandogoargentinos1385 I believe the solenoid that controlled the pitch of the vanes was connected to a switch that detected the throttle position, but it could easily have been connected to a manual switch.
hello, i have a 1969 ford galaxie sportsroof (Heavy car), 3.50 rear gears, wheels = 255 60 15, C6 trans (w/ transgo shift kit), 390FE, edelbrock perfomer intake, holley carb 600cfm, FPA shorty headers, isky RV part#351256-262 cam (Hyd Flat Tappet, Advertised Duration 256/262, Lift .492/.488) what can you do for me for stall? It's a street car (won't see strip)
Part number 35-20 would be a fantastic choice for your combination. This is our Street Rod series converter featuring an advertised stall speed rating of 2,000 - 2,200 RPM. This model will provide a noticeable improvement in low speed acceleration and general performance while still maintaining excellent overall drivability, responsiveness, and converter efficiency. We keep this model in stock and ready to ship. 😉
I recommend torque converter part number 22-25ELMAX. This converter will provide 2,400 - 2,600 RPM of flash stall speed with your combination all while maintaining excellent drivability.
So stall speed is the amount of RPMs the engine has to make to get the driven wheels to turn? I can see how such an application would be needed for racing, but what is the advantage for street? Does the engine always have to hit the stall speed to make the car go? Say 3,000 stall speed. Does the engine have to reach 3,000 before the car will start to move? Sorry if I seem a bit thick, but this has always been somewhat confusing and have have yet to get a good answer. Your video did seem to help me understand, if I did indeed understand it correctly. Thanks.
The stock stall is the best until it’s not. Typically large cams will cause the need for a higher than stock stall. The stall speed needed will be based on all of what he said as far as variables. Also it’s not a on off operation. It will work in the same principles as stock but at a higher rpm. The stall is where in theory a X rpm the engine can push through your brakes. Hold your brake down and slowly press your throttle you will feel basically a breaking point then the vehicle begins to move. To low of a stall the cam lope will start to shake your vehicle and perhaps try to move the car eft.
A higher stall speed converter will still provide drive power to the wheels at engine RPM below the actual stall speed rating of a given converter. However, a higher stall speed converter will display a higher percentage of slippage as drive power is initially being generated to the wheels, much in the same manner of slipping a clutch on initial throttle application and acceleration in a vehicle equipped with a manual transmission.
Hughes Performance I have a 383 with a SS 23-2500 and it feels like I’m driving a snowmobile with shift points I can’t even feel. Do I need an 1800 SS converter? Throttle response to power feels sluggish and my shifting is so soft, I can’t feel it. I’m confused as I used to feel every shift point on my stock setup
In my Dodge truck, I could foot-brake stall and get the same as static stall. I pressed foot down hard on the brakes, and also pulled the E-brake, and that was enough to keep the tires from spinning under a WOT punch. Got ~2200rpm
@@lost1mp Yeah really, in a dodge it won't put up with that long, sad when a company makes a worse slush box than GM does, but yet fiat dodge does LOL.
Some vehicles do have enough brake system holding power to achieve maximum converter stall speed. As engine torque output increases with modifications, that becomes much more difficult to achieve.
The most important aspect of explaining stall speeds that you missed is uses of stall speeds. Why you'd want a low stall speed vs high stall speed. What benefits from low stall speed and high stall speeds. Should have done that just after you explained what stall.speed is at the beginning before going into what affects stall speed.
Very good video! Thanks for not having lame music or a bunch of other theatrics, just straight to the education.
Yes!
But..but..but you've got to be a crowd pleaser at all costs because the dum dums make the rules!!
Thanks for the great educational video, and a huge thanks for not ruining it with crappy background music while you're talking. I don't know why some people are compelled to add annoying background music throughout the video.
Fuckin Aye
When my dad explained a torque converter to me in 1964, I was amazed. Now almost 60 yrs L8R, I see this vid & I'm still amazed!
Thanks so much for making & posting this.
I read a number of explanations over the years from 1979 to maybe 2005 and none of them mentioned the one-way clutch. But it never made sense the way the stator was said to divert the fluid and add to the torque unless there was also something to stop it from spinning backward. Finally, in 2005, I just added "one-way clutch" to a Google search on the subject and found a more complete explanation than I'd ever seen before. I guess I could have just asked a transmission shop, but the few I'd had reason to visit seemed too busy for educational questions.
This is a great video. Years ago I had a Rover 800 2.0 litre with ZF HP14 4-speed automatic gearbox. They were sold as Sterling in the US and I expect they had the 2.7 litre Honda engine over there. As I was having the engine and gearbox rebuilt I took the opportunity to have a custom-made torque converter. I told the torque converter company that I wanted the lowest stall speed possible. They said they could do it, but it wouldn't work as the engine would stall as soon as it was put in gear. I went away to think about it, and the maths involved, and I concluded that they were wrong, so I asked them to go ahead and build it that way. They supplied it to the mechanic who was putting the gearbox back together, and after having supplied it, someone higher up in the company rang him up and said, "We're sure it isn't going to work, so if you return it now before it's fitted, we'll put it back to normal at no extra cost". Clearly, the discussion about it had filtered up and someone more senior had eventually taken a look at the spec after it had already been despatched. I went away and thought about it again and simulated it in my head, and I concluded that I was simply going outside their normal envelope of experience, and that they were extrapolating linearly outside of their experience instead of in proportion to the cube root, which is indicated by the maths. Plus, I'd reached the point where I had to know if I was right or not. So I told the mechanic to go ahead and fit it.
I've got to say that it was almost perfectly how I expected it to be, in that there was a bit of an extra 'kerthunk' when it went into Drive, and the engine vibrated a little more on tickover when stationary, as the torque converter was pulling harder at tickover, but it didn't even come close to stalling the engine. Driving through traffic was lovely, because a lot of the time I only needed to take my foot off the brake to keep up with slow traffic as it would creep at a much higher speed than normal. To make decent progress I only had to breathe on the accelerator and the first to second gear change was extra silky because then engine was revving so slowly when it happened. Commuting right across London at the time I managed to average 35mpg over a tankful, which is pretty good considering that it was a 2-litre, long and relatively heavy car, driving through one of the heaviest traffic areas of the UK for most of my journey each day. But I was especially delighted that my experiment had worked, and the experienced, qualified professionals were wrong. The downside is that at the traffic lights Grand Prix it was definitely slower, because the torque converter was holding the engine speed down to a lower speed all the way through each gear, but if you use a car for normal commuter driving and not racing, then a lower-stall-speed torque converter is much nicer to drive with.
That was the best in-depth explanation on torque converters I have ever heard.
Cheers😊
I watched several other videos on stall speed and was nothing but disappointed. All of those people need to come and watch this and get an education from you professor. Fantastic video and 100% convinced me of who I need to go to for parts.
Let me simplify this for everyone....the front spinny thing uses fluid to make the back spinny thing go around and around. The engine speed required for the front spinny thing to spin the back spinny thing when you mash the accelerator thingy as fast as you can is called the stall speed. I don't know why they call it stall speed because it doesn't stall when its spinning.
The turbine is stalled.
It does stall out tho the fluid starts to move backwards actually
So the spinny spin spinner, spin the spinny spin spin?
and this is why i prefer a manual. 😂
@@jeffhaire1984you should get yourself an automatic transmission with 10 gears
Thank you for getting right to the point here and being actually educational. I know very little about how automatic transmissions work and i want to understand more so i’m gonna binge this whole series
Well what a shock to pull up a video done by none other than PETE! Wow that caught me off guard.
As a student, I appreciate information that I can understand. This video helped me understand stall speed and the factors that influence its variability. Thank you.
Thanks for your kind words and your support!
I went through several other videos myself before finding this one!
Oh baby, this video packed a punch, I learned a lot, especially that I should call for recommendations even on a mils street combo, I finally get it. Excellent.
Thank you!!
Once again, excellent, concise with some impeller/stator/turbine design details and stall speed clarification.
If I install a stage 2 cam kit, will I need a different tipe of torque converter for a stick 5.3L?
Nice to know RUclips listens to or watches my text messages..... 5 hours ago I had this exact discussion with my buddy about stalls and tq converters lol
Google says, "you're welcome" 😂😂😂
Hughes Performance lol!! Definitely got me subbed buddy!!
I have a Hughes converter that I am running in my s10 pickup. Would Hughes have a record of my converter I purchased 6 years ago.
I am getting started on my 1971 Nova build. Just got my 383 stoker built, I was thinking in my mind I need a 2,500 stall. I wake up this morning and this is the first video on my recommend list. LMAO 😂
Building a 74 nova going with a 350 and 2500 stall 700r4 3.73 gears
Then Super T-10 and 400 hp 5.3 ls
I was glad to hear that about the foot brake stall. I don't like power braking at all and don't do it. I've taught my sons it's an embarrassment. If the car won't spin the wheels on it's own free will then build a bigger engine.
Spining wheels at 60 mph it takes torque period!!!!! Engine gotta be on the money cant make the power if the engine not burning the fuel
Very good! I tested a Dodge Dakota 3.9, V6 and I had 1600rpm. Is it right?
Turbo hydramatic 425s had a variable pitch stator. VERY efficient. Shame they quit making them.
Caterpillar hydrostatic transmissions had a unique torque converter design...
Ever seen one ??
Great video Sir.
We've rebuilt many variable pitch GM converters over the years, but not that particular Caterpillar unit you mentioned.
Great video! The only question I have is how much a typical car torque converter waster energy (in kW) when the transmission in on Drive, the engine idling and the car is hold on brakes? Does different stall speed affect this?
I've got a .060" over 427 12.5:1 CR, Single plane intake with a 800 cfm dbl pmp Holly. Solid lifter cam, Advertised Duration: 304
Duration at .050" : 258
Lobe Separation : 108 .615" lift, 400 THM 4:56 12-bolt posi in a 4000lb 72 C/10. Can you recommend what stall speed I need? This truck wont see much street, track truck mostly...Thanks!
I just purchased a Hughes converter. Works great 👍👍
Thank you!!
@@HughesPerformance NO, thank you for building quality parts. That's something we lost in this country over the years is quality, but you guys understand quality. I inspected the 2500 converter and it's great! Keep up the good work. 👍
Are there application for using both a torque converter and clutch at the same time?
Not usually as an automatic transmissions clutches are internal. And the new "manumatic" type automatics simply allow to specifically select an individual gear. Actual manual transmissions do not use a torque converter, just a clutch. To have both would require a massive bell housing and a very complicated hydraulic system from the transmission.
Also, why would you want both? The complexety of an automatic is enough for most people. Why add to that by throwing an additional fly wheel clutch to the mix.
Lock-up torque converters first began use by US domestic manufacturers in 1978. A lock-up converter features a clutch inside the torque converter that applies at cruising speeds typically around 35 - 40 MPH depending on the application. This feature was originally incorporated by OEM's to help increase fuel efficiency and reduce engine emissions. The aftermarket has since adapted lock-up converter technology to some extreme high horsepower drag racing applications.
In the early days of automatics, there were actually Chryslers with a pedal-operated clutch and a fluid coupling (a torque converter without the stator). Some shifted automatically between 2 speeds, but you had to use the clutch to switch between "ranges". They were probably less confusing to drive than to explain. The comments on this video explain it better than I ever could.
ruclips.net/video/p-wfIrtVUmk/видео.html
Also, VW had something called an "Automatic Stick Shift" in the 1960s, with a torque-converter, a vacuum-operated clutch and a 3 speed manual gearbox. The clutch automatically disengaged if the transmission lever moved so the driver just had to shift.
Both of these seemed kind of kludgy, but they still could idle in gear, and could be driven in high gear with no shifting as long as you weren't in a hurry.
Thankyou for sharing this video. I have a 02 silverado 1500, 5.3ls, 3.42 end, all stock. What stall would you recommend for towing, daily driver?
I have a 72 350 motor 4 Main with a turbo 400 miles it and I can’t get the torque converter with the torque transmission through a belt was a shift kit what do I need in the torque in the transmission it would work with that transmission
Excellent engine and transmission combination right there. Hopefully you got everything figured out and have it running great.
man, you are the best :) so nice for understanding about, thanks so much
Best stall speed video on RUclips 👍
Can you take t400 with 10" convertor stalls 3500rpm change to 2500rpm with dump valves? Charging fluid? Thankyou
So my truck makes 265 full at 2000 rpm. (Ford 300) if I foot brake it it does about 1500 rpm. Is there anyway to determine how to determine my stall speed based on that?. Its totally stock E4OD transmission
Maximum stall speed is determined by whatever RPM the engine will flash to upon initial acceleration under load whether that be from a stop or very slow roll. You can transition to wide open throttle immediately at the same time of releasing the foot brake at 1,500 RPM, observe the tachometer while doing so, and the initial flash RPM is the maximum stall speed of your converter. You'll probably only notice another 200 - 300 RPM of flash over your current footbrake stall speed with that combination.
This was exactly what I was looking for. Thanks 👍
I watched two of your explanation videos and knew right away to subscribe. Excellent and very helpful!
i really appreciate this video, in short the more you slow down the fluid coupling from happening/ efficiency the higher the stall speed/ the more torque can be output by engine without overriding torque converter, trans, etc. Thank you so much finally understandable. :)
I am confused. So, do higher rpm stalls above new specs indicate worn converters or do lower rpm stalls indicate worn fins or leak by?
what stall do you recomend ? I have a 1982 dodge d150 short bed with mildly built 318 with stock 30 over flat top pistions with factory 360 Hipo cam . 727 auto none lockup with racing shift kit and rear is 8-1/4 with 3:55 gears . the front 15 x 7 with 235 /75/15 and rear is 15x 8-1/2 with 255/75/15
I was thinking 2000 stall ?????
Are there any markings/#s on torque converter to know if it's stock or performance ? (Part # ?) I bought a used C-4 with a converter. Was told it is 4,000 stall. Haven't found any #s to know if it's stock or performance.
very good presentation thanks for posting your host of knowledge i have a few questions id like to ask i will try giving you guys a call early next week thank you
I have 1500 silverado with 4l80e and ls3 gt12 cam 373 gear what is best converter
Our part number 25-30LHD torque converter would work well with your combination. This is our Pro Street series billet single disc 265mm model featuring an advertised stall speed rating of 3,000 RPM. This converter works really well in high performance trucks; offering a nice overall blend between great drivability along with a significant improvement in overall acceleration and performance as compared to an OEM torque converter.
Thanks
Can you talk about or make a video about convertor slip ?? I lost mph and et as my convertor aged. I still don’t understand why it happened and how to prevent it
Will do!
Every word is informative!❤️
Thank you so much. 🙂
Ok what is a reinforced converter? When I had my 200 4R trans built the builder recommended I get one.
Good afternoon, I have an edelbrock performer kit, for a 302, 81 of a bronco, they estimate 320 hp and 260 foot pounds of torque between 2000 and 4000 rpm (5500 rpm max). It has a 3-speed c6 box, standard differential and 33 wheels, I need to replace the torque converter, I appreciate your suggestion to choose the right one for these characteristics, the camshaft indicates, intake duration 204 degrees, exhaust duration 214 degrees, elevation intake .448", exhaust elevation .472", lobe separation 112 degrees, intake center line 107 degrees, vacuum 16", thank you very much and congratulations for the videos, they are of great help to incorporate knowledge.
Can you assist me in a torque converter question on the correct torque converter for my setup?
Great video on understanding converters. Some shops i have spoken to ask specific engine build details is this really needed. Also is converter diameter a big factor in achieving what is needed as in smaller engines need smaller diameter for it to work. Thanks ray
Yes, when we provide a torque converter recommendation we want to know as many engine specifics as possible as well as vehicle weight, rear gear ratio, rear tire size, how the vehicle will be used, etc.
Does more vehicle weight require a higher or lower stall speed?
Lower because they weight of the vehicle will allow for more
You guys do anything with the new 6 & 8 speed Chevy trans stall converter .like camaro and trucks, About 2400 stall, something to handle a 1k idle, and lock for street, I want to swap one into a older car, with older engine,
We sure do! We have options available for the 6L80, 6L90, and 8L90.
One question. When talking about measured stall speed did you say "Flat" stall speed or "Flash" stall speed?
"Flash"
Learned a lot, thank you.
Can you tell me if there is anything like more or less hp or cam than one thinks that would cause the stall to be effected,I mean more or less than advertised?
Can’t wait to get my 408 sbm with twins together to start building the A999 to go behind it. You’ll be hearing from me.
Can you tell us if more or less hp,torque or cam would effect the stall of the converter one buys,up or down?
What is the lowest usable stall for a 2700 lb oval track race car.
4.88 rear gear.
Not going to read all the comments to see if my question is. My 3700 lbs with me in it Barracuda, 345ci LA engine is getting a 4 inch crank this winter. Have a built 904, 355 gear with a Gear Vendor unit.
Now currently I cruise at 75 at 2700 rpm. How will that change with the 416 ci.. It has a tight 3000 convertor. The question is with the extra (just a guess) 60, 70 ftlbs of torque will the rpm cruising drop, stay the same or go up?
love the channels. filled with great info 🤟🏾
Can you make a video dedicated to the Allison 1000 TC considerations and different applications. I want a truck that can do it all. Street, track, tow/haul. I'm at 454hHP de-torqued to 800 lbs. with a 120hp tune looking at getting a transmission built and throwing in a 250hp tune for my 68mm, 10mil.stroked CP3 and 60 over injectors. Goal of 750hHP/1300TQ.
We don't get into Allison transmission builds here at Hughes, nor do we offer much for the diesel market apart from the typical billet triple disc converters and deep pans. If you're looking for hardcore diesel performance transmissions then you really need to be dealing with Suncoast.
I am Still Trying To Have My Older 7004 And My New Blue Print 383 Stroker Working Properly, I have PurchasedA Hughes 2600-2700 Stall Converter And The Engine was Surging I was Told To Unhook Plug On The Driver Side Of The Transmission .After Doing So The Engine Surge Has Gone Away But I Don't Want to Burn Up My Transmission. I Am Getting Conflicting Information On Whether Or Not This Will Happen. This Combination Is In My 55 Belair 2Dr. Htop Which I Have Owned For 51 Years And It Is A Beautiful Car! I Would Appreciate Any Assistance In Resolving This Problem! Thank You!
so I have a 454 bored 030, 10.5:1CR, 280H comp cam, TH400, 3.42:1 posi rear and tires are 26" tall. what is the ideal torque converter?
Now on that flash stall speed is that just before redline and then you can tell what your stall speed is by rpm or before the trans changes gears?
i have a 55 bel air with a ls3 and a brian tooley stage 2 cam, the cam is advertised to use the stock converter..... it has a 6l80e trans with 350 gears and its against the converter when i stop. What converter would you recommend for this application. Thanks, great video.
The BTR LS3 Stage 2 camshaft really works better with a higher stall torque converter. It's a great cam, but it's barely tolerable with a stock torque converter. I recommend our part number 65-25L. This is our Street Master 6L80 model that will typically provide stall speed in the range of 2,400 - 2,600 RPM with a combo like yours, will provide more favorable idling characteristics in gear, and still maintain fantastic drivability.
@@HughesPerformance Thanks for the response, i will be getting with you to order that converter.... Thanks
@@robertwilcox393 Do you recommend a trans cooler, or is it necessary.
@@bobwilcox5775 an external transmission fluid cooler is always a sound investment.
I have a Dodge Charger 5.7 AWD and find there's not enough stall which makes the engine not rev enough when hitting the gas fully to get the performance it should compared to a RWD... What can be done for this?
Do u have any HP 2215 valve body replacement gaskets.
Yes, you can order those under part number HP2216 which comes as a pair.
@@HughesPerformance
Thanks for the response been a great transbrake.
So if I want to push more horsepower and torque on my 1999 CRV, would an aftermarket torque converter be ideal?
So if I have a LS swapped conversion and I feel that at idle the engine is over powering the brakes do I get a bigger converter? Or should I consider a different automatic transmission with a lower first gear ratio
Sounds like you need a higher stall converter to me.
i got a question for u ..i got a 1990 k5 blazer 700r trans 2000 to 2400 torque converter in it and im thinking about buying this race motor it has 12.5 to 1 sbc 355 030 over with elgin e-1090p solid flat tappet cam with scorpion 1.6 rockers for total lift of 573 intake 594 exhust can i use the torque converter i have on this engine,,..i no i got alot of things to change because it is a tbi fuel injection
What is the difference between a low hp max effort small cu in converter, like an NHRA stock eliminator like a K/SA, and say a 400hp bracket car of equal weight?
Thank you for this great explanation. I was wondering why does the slip ratio reduce as RPM increases, I.e.: if you have a flash stall of say 3,000 rpm then you have close to a 3,000 rpm difference in input shaft to output shaft speed, but once the engine reaches say 6,000 rpm the output shaft would be much closer to the input shaft speed. Thank you for explaining that centrifugal force enables the fluid to transfer more energy.
Sorry to be offtopic but does anyone know of a method to log back into an Instagram account?
I stupidly lost my password. I would love any help you can give me!
@Ronnie Randy Instablaster :)
@Jayce Jaime thanks so much for your reply. I found the site on google and im in the hacking process now.
I see it takes quite some time so I will reply here later with my results.
@Jayce Jaime It worked and I actually got access to my account again. I am so happy!
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@Ronnie Randy Happy to help :D
do people upgrade torque converters to deal with larger mud tires ? Seems like a good idea to me. I know a lot regear. I don't hear many people talking about torque converters though which to me would make sense also.
Up to the end of the 1967 model year, GM made "switch pitch" torque converters, which increased the stall speed if the accelerator was depressed most of the way. It seemed like the best of both worlds, but I've heard it could be a reliability trouble spot. Do any aftermarket builders make switch-pitch converters today?
Excellent explanation. Great information-packed video.
If you are running a converter with a stall speed of 2200 to 2600 and you are running at 65 mph on the freeway with the engine turning at 2000 rpm's at 65mpr will the torque converter, be slipping causing heat and poor efficiency?
Great lesson, if I get into the market for a custom design I'm calling you! Thanks.
I actually had a couple sent to me when I talked and said this is what the gearing is this is what the trans is set up as hp rating and what my customer is looking for. getting the right torque converter to every set up is always a good thing when dealing with the final set up no one wants to take back out the trans just to fix a issue
This video really help me with my concern
amazing video...thanks...it's a generous amount of info to freely give to the car community.
Thank you for making these videos. Curious about stall speed application. I’m guessing a high rpm hydraulic hookup would be used for drag racing where ya only care about 4-8k rpm. A slow hydraulic hookup, say 800 rpm for a Diesel tractor. Am I in the ballpark?
Thanks for your support and for commenting! We really appreciate it!!
You're definitely thinking along the right lines. The vast majority of torque converters that we build for dedicated drag racing applications will typically provide a flash RPM of anywhere from 4,500 RPM to as much as 7,000 RPM and beyond, depending on the application. We tailor the necessary stall speed characteristics and converter coupling point to each specific application when it comes to our custom converter builds.
Modified street-driven diesel applications will typically utilize a torque converter that only provides around 1,000 - 1,500 RPM of flash stall speed. Due to the torque output of diesel engines and the relatively low RPM ceiling, diesel applications typically need a very low coupling point in the converter.
Hope this helps!!
I have a 2002 mustang gt stage 4 comp cams and 3200 stall converter do I need a tune again?
all i want to know is what do i need for a 1/2 ton work truck with a small 4.8l v8 and 4L60E tranny? high or low stall speed?
What's the advantage of going with a steel stator compared to a aluminum stator ? Is it just that it can handle more power ?
A steel stator is ultimately stronger than an aluminum stator. That being said, modern billet aluminum stator designs are incredibly strong as well.
What it really boils down to is selecting the right stator design that will provide the correct flash RPM, torque multiplication, and converter coupling characteristics for a given combination.
Correctly designed steel stators will typically (though not always) offer increased flash RPM, less torque multiplication, and greater converter coupling ability when compared to similar aluminum stator models.
Amazing video you said it best trust in this gent he knows what he says
Excellent video. I get it now. Thank you.
I really appreciate the vid..My knowledge of "High stall" is to get the engine in the sweet spot when you stab it as well as be able to idle with a large cam(low manifold vac) but the actual size of the converter is much smaller as the stall speed increases (Factory V8 converter over 3500 rated converter)....I'd like to know is that a smaller oil volume thing...
Great question!! Thanks for commenting here. Oil volume inside a torque converter does indeed play a significant role in the stall speed characteristics and coupling efficiency of a torque converter.
As torque converter diameter decreases, oil volume obviously decreases as well. As oil volume decreases, there is less fluid available to offer resistance against the impeller as the engine is running as well as less leverage being generated from the impeller to the turbine due to the smaller, shorter impeller vanes. Consequently, as more engine torque is applied to the impeller, a corresponding rise in stall speed occurs.
Additionally, most smaller diameter torque converter cores typically come from OEM applications that feature small engine displacement with relatively low torque output. As a result, the impeller designs commonly used with many smaller diameter torque converter cores feature more neutral or even negative impeller vane angles. As the impeller vane angle becomes more neutral or negative, stall speed increases due to the higher RPM required to create efficient fluid acceleration between the impeller and turbine.
Great video, thanks for the info!!!
Whatcha advise for a 64 Impala with a LS1 swap? Ls6 intake, 216/224 115 lsa cam. 155/80/13 tires. 3.00 gears?
You're running an LS on 155 tires? Wth? That thing ain't gonna know what traction is. Lol
Lowrider with 14 batteries in the tru k plus hydraulics. Lots of us have them lol ;)
Picked the 2300 stall for what I’m doing
All that engine work and highdros,...ok hope it’s not a hopper and looks good man.
lost1mp Full restore, everything chromed and gold plated, piston pump to the nose, it hops like Jordan when I need it to lol!!! Candy black
Used Vega convertors with turbo 400 with shift kit and manual valve body and big blocks on the street for years.
I was thinking the same thing that worked yet they sure built some heat.
@@sswcustomsewing4276 so if I had a six-cylinder with the same transmission and put it behind the big block it will make more torque with the big block
I mean to say it would give it more stall
Great video, very informative, in depth explanation delivered in an easy to understand presentation.
That said, I have to aak....what in the world is the guy with the air tool destroying? I'm no transmission expert but I find it impossible to believe any transmission requires 20 minutes of off and on grinding with an airtool.
Thanks again for the video.
All the best.
I will definitely be calling.
Hey guys. I have a 2011 Camaro SS full boltons with 3200 Circle D stall with 391 gears.it makes 380 rwhp and 400 ft lbs torque. I can't footbrake it past 1800 rpm with pushing through the brakes. Is that right? Thanks
Yes, because as he mentioned, foot-brake is your lowest read stall, because you're limited by your traction. Now if you can get your wheels to remain locked and do it again, you should be far closer to your stall speed.
There's not necessarily a "right" amount of footbrake stall speed. Flash stall speed is really what's more important. That being said, we can tune your Circle D torque converter for increased footbrake stall speed if that's something you desire.
@@HughesPerformance Thanks for the response. I havnt flashed it at the track yet. But i sure will give it a go.👍
@@JoeIsCrazyWillman Thanks Joe👌
Thanks for the great video! What is going on with a GM Switch Pitch / variable vane torque converter? How do they work and do they have any benefits?
Switch pitch torque converters can alter the stator vane angle (or "pitch") when the switch pitch feature is activated. The stall speed will increase when the feature is activated which contributes to faster engine & vehicle acceleration from a stop or low speed.
@@HughesPerformance Came to ask the same thing, I rebuilt an ST400 trans and stuck it behind a 472-inch Caddy in my rat rod but didn't fully understand how the switch-pitch function works. Thanks!
@@HughesPerformance So, are you saying you can have a switch where you go from stock to high stall speed???!?
@@guardiandogoargentinos1385 I believe the solenoid that controlled the pitch of the vanes was connected to a switch that detected the throttle position, but it could easily have been connected to a manual switch.
Great video, thanks for taking some of the mystery out converters.
Nice job with good tech.TY!
hello, i have a 1969 ford galaxie sportsroof (Heavy car), 3.50 rear gears, wheels = 255 60 15, C6 trans (w/ transgo shift kit), 390FE, edelbrock perfomer intake, holley carb 600cfm, FPA shorty headers, isky RV part#351256-262 cam (Hyd Flat Tappet, Advertised Duration 256/262, Lift .492/.488)
what can you do for me for stall? It's a street car (won't see strip)
Part number 35-20 would be a fantastic choice for your combination. This is our Street Rod series converter featuring an advertised stall speed rating of 2,000 - 2,200 RPM.
This model will provide a noticeable improvement in low speed acceleration and general performance while still maintaining excellent overall drivability, responsiveness, and converter efficiency.
We keep this model in stock and ready to ship. 😉
@@HughesPerformance thx!
@@ramiram84 you're welcome!! 😀
Bro! The banshee in the back ground 😂
So if I have a stall of 3000 my vehicle won’t move until I get to 3000 rpm? I’m still confused
Fooshbadadcadoosh no it’s just the speed at which the tc is applying full transfer from engine to trans
good explanation 🎉
I have a silverado 1500 with headers c.a.i and underdrive pulley what will be the best torque converter for this setup
4.8with 4l60 and 3.42 gears
I recommend torque converter part number 22-25ELMAX. This converter will provide 2,400 - 2,600 RPM of flash stall speed with your combination all while maintaining excellent drivability.
So stall speed is the amount of RPMs the engine has to make to get the driven wheels to turn? I can see how such an application would be needed for racing, but what is the advantage for street? Does the engine always have to hit the stall speed to make the car go? Say 3,000 stall speed. Does the engine have to reach 3,000 before the car will start to move? Sorry if I seem a bit thick, but this has always been somewhat confusing and have have yet to get a good answer. Your video did seem to help me understand, if I did indeed understand it correctly. Thanks.
The stock stall is the best until it’s not. Typically large cams will cause the need for a higher than stock stall. The stall speed needed will be based on all of what he said as far as variables. Also it’s not a on off operation. It will work in the same principles as stock but at a higher rpm. The stall is where in theory a X rpm the engine can push through your brakes. Hold your brake down and slowly press your throttle you will feel basically a breaking point then the vehicle begins to move. To low of a stall the cam lope will start to shake your vehicle and perhaps try to move the car eft.
A higher stall speed converter will still provide drive power to the wheels at engine RPM below the actual stall speed rating of a given converter. However, a higher stall speed converter will display a higher percentage of slippage as drive power is initially being generated to the wheels, much in the same manner of slipping a clutch on initial throttle application and acceleration in a vehicle equipped with a manual transmission.
Hughes Performance I have a 383 with a SS 23-2500 and it feels like I’m driving a snowmobile with shift points I can’t even feel. Do I need an 1800 SS converter? Throttle response to power feels sluggish and my shifting is so soft, I can’t feel it. I’m confused as I used to feel every shift point on my stock setup
Very interesting.
Previous to this I was pretty much in the dark as to how torque converters function.
👍
Excellent video
In my Dodge truck, I could foot-brake stall and get the same as static stall. I pressed foot down hard on the brakes, and also pulled the E-brake, and that was enough to keep the tires from spinning under a WOT punch. Got ~2200rpm
JoeIsCrazyWillman my condolences to your trans.
@@lost1mp Yeah really, in a dodge it won't put up with that long, sad when a company makes a worse slush box than GM does, but yet fiat dodge does LOL.
Some vehicles do have enough brake system holding power to achieve maximum converter stall speed. As engine torque output increases with modifications, that becomes much more difficult to achieve.
Great video .Thank`s.
Great Video ! Thank You
Fantastic video, thanks!!
The most important aspect of explaining stall speeds that you missed is uses of stall speeds. Why you'd want a low stall speed vs high stall speed. What benefits from low stall speed and high stall speeds. Should have done that just after you explained what stall.speed is at the beginning before going into what affects stall speed.
People have short attention spans....if you wanted to see this vid., you likely know what stall speed relates to IMO.