Видео

@@timd4151 it’s measured in diameter Tim. As for street converters, I run what is optimal. I’ve never had a performance converter issue in all the years running one. I’ve had people tell me all sorts of untruths about high stall converters running on the streets. Thanks for your question 👍🏻

@@ronsmusclecargarage4060 Thank you for your reply. my new SBC motor isn't liking my factory stall convertor so I'm trying to learn more about them because I've never run a high stall convertor before and can't really afford to make the wrong choice on which to buy.

@@timd4151 I hear you, Tim!Converters are too expensive to guess at. My best advice is to contact Coan Engineering and talk to tech-support. Tell them you want your set-up to perform optimally and not bog off the line. They will then ask you several questions about the set up. If you don’t have all the answers when on the spot, ask them to email you a set up questionnaire sheet. Fill that out to the best of your knowledge then get back with tech-support. This is the best way to get you close to what you need. Please follow up to let me know how it goes and good luck 👍🏻

Lack of knowledge basically. In time, most will learn through the school of hard knocks.

I also have a Grand Cherokee. Mine has a 318 that’s stock. To answer your question, sorry, I wouldn’t know. This said, I would contact either Coan Engineering, or any other converter manufacturer. They may be able to take your vehicle information/engine/gear ratio/tire size and compute and give you a more accurate answer. Hope that helps.

They’ll love Top Fuel 😊

Thanks, 8.70s in the 1/4 and 5.60 flat in the 1/8th. This was with my then 565, I have now built it to a 568. It’s making an additional 33 hp. It’s naturally aspirated on ethanol. Also, I do have a 175 plate kit w/timer as I was going to race in an 8.50 event but have never sprayed it. I street this car more than race it. Best package at the track was a .001.

Nice, that’s some quick times! I remember running high 13’s in the mustang and thought I was on top of world lol, can’t imagine running an 8 second car! Yea Gainesville is only a few hours from here, so when my youngest is old enough to keep ear muffs on, will definitely take them. Never get tired of seeing a top fuel tear down the track. The funny cars are my favorite.

@@VetteWay2Fast I take my Grandson too and he loves it. I’m giving him the 69 when he’s 25. He’s only 14 now so it’ll be awhile. It is a great feeling launching and experiencing the G force. Mine has a glide so the best sixty foot is only 1.230 flat. It’s still quite the torque monster off the line as it dead hooks with no bog. Mine runs the Top et/Super Pro class so it’s a box car.

Nice, he’ll love that, especially if he shares the same passion for the sport as you! Man that’s quick, I can only imagine those G’s pulled. Bet that’s an adrenaline rush coming off the line!

That’s what I initially did but kept fighting a miss. Once I grounded both aluminum heads directly to battery ground, issue resolved.

👍🏻😊thx

Thank you, the car weighs 2,885 with me in it. Also, this was when the car ran three tenths slower than today’s setup.

@@ronthepoolstudent that’s awesome, it runs pretty close to my setup but my car is a little bit heavier. I’m going to try an NA converter to see if mine will pick up on the motor

@@overtimeracing9367 do you have data acquisition for rpm?

@@ronthepoolstudent yes sir, my rpm drop on the shift is pretty substantial on the motor. Shift at 7500 and drops down to 6000. Sprayed a 26 jet and only loosed the converter up 300 rpm

@overtimeracing9367 what does it flash at on the hit?

Return test comment

Thanks for the question, i’m not up on injection applications however. As far as water absorption, this is true for both ethanol and alcohol. This being said, after 14 years running ethanol, (in two cars) I’ve never had any issues. Also, sorry but I know of no additives for water absorption.

@@ronsmusclecargarage4060 Thanks Ron. I'll just make sure to start it every few weeks and bring it up to temp. It was easy when I had all-seasons on to just go get groceries, but it's on summer tires and I'm not going to drive on them under 45 degrees. Merry Christmas

@@TheMugwump1that sounds like a plan, I’d say you’ll be fine if you do that. Merry Christmas to you and yours as well 🎄🎅🏻🎄

Cool, it will work and same you a lot of frustration 👍🏻

To verify William, contact Coan Engineering’s tech support. Run those numbers by their expert, they will recommend a stall number. Tell them you’d like the converter to flash in the rpm range for the cam and package you have.

Thank you Dale for your question. Your question however is actually tough to answer. I recommend contacting Coan Engineering’s technical support. They will ask for more information and provide you with an accurate answer. Imo, the numbers you have provided seem too low. I would be curious to hear back from you, once you’ve reached out to Coan. Thank you once again and please stay in touch 👍🏻

My gut says you’ll need around a 4,500-5k to net your desired flash rpm Allen. To be sure, give Coan Engineering a call and run the numbers by them. My feeling is that 3,200-3,500 will be too tight.

@@ronthepoolstudent ok where are they out of,I have a 2,500 to 2,800 now I guess I've gotten use to it thank you sir have a blessed night.

@@allenslaughter1965 the flash rpm needs to match up with your cam’s sweet spot. This eliminates bogging off the line. And you as well Allen 👍🏻

@@ronthepoolstudent ok it takes off well I think I need a little more sir or maybe timing,I'll have my mechanic check ✔️ it out before I put it up for the winter thank you again sir .

Thank you PF, I appreciate the support. 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻

Thanks for subscribing T&K. The V pump is cog belt driven.

@@ronthepoolstudent another question…(we have big block, switched to running alky carb, but no V pump..looking to have one installed over the winter) what brand V pump do you have?

Yes James, the car weight is currently 2,700. It used to weigh 2,611 before I added a factory grill and headlights for street driving. Also, I upgraded to a Dart Big M block from a GM four bolt which added weight. Also upgraded to a Reid super case for the glide. The chassis is Chromoly but I still have the original front frame section in place. Front down bars are chromoly as well. All glass has been replaced with Lexan and there are no regulators. Breaks are Wilwood four piston drag breaks.

@@ronsmusclecargarage4060 Well thats superlight! I'm envious! My 71 Mustang weighs 3500 w/o driver and thats using a fiberglass hood and aluminum intake. I'm shaving some lbs as we speak. I had Aerospace Components brakes before but they are junk and using Baer now. So same there. New lithium starter battery replacing heavy Optima. New mini starter possibly. New aluminum timing cover. Maybe the carb gets updated from the old Holley but thats one of those things that needs to run right and as you can tell its not a light race car, but more of a cruiser. Cheers

@jamesmedina2062 this car runs in the NHRA Super Pro class James. Many door cars in this class run in the low nines while fewer run in the eights. Since the car is light, this did help it run consistently in the 8.70s on motor. (new engine build 8.60s) Also, the lighter weight is easier on drive train components. Another benefit; the 568 can run a less aggressive 280/291 @ .050 cam, which is great for street use as well. There are many benefits to running a light car for sure. Good luck shedding the weight, it’ll help in many ways 👍🏻

@@ronsmusclecargarage4060 Thanks man! Good luck too!! Regarding cams, is yours a solid roller?? Who is making good cams these days? Mine is a 215/215 at 0.050(hydraulic roller) but may want to run something a little healthier. My 383 stroker has 10:1 static compression. Oh yeah I use iron 351C Aussie heads but if I used aluminum I would lose some weight. Still 3300 though

@@ronsmusclecargarage4060 are you sure the 280/291 is not advertised duration? Thats big!

Thank you Jeff for your question. I can only tell you that I build/tune my drag engines for optimal intended performance first. I then fine tune on the dyno. From there, I have the converters custom built per dyno outcomes as indicated on the dyno sheet. I give this info along with car and drivetrain information to my converter builder, Coan Engineering. They do a great job of customizing what’s needed. Intakes: As a drag race guy, I’ve always opted for single plane intakes as they compliment a more aggressive cam grind and high flowing cylinder heads for drag racing. I’m not really qualified to talk about dual plane intakes so sorry about that. I might add: I do drive the streets however, but I would not want to build a tightly wound drag engine for distance driving. It all comes down to compromise per the build and what performance one is looking for…street or for the stripe 🤔🤷🏻‍♂️ Thanks again, I wish I could have helped more.

@@ronthepoolstudent Thanks for the response. I hear what you're saying, you sound like you're well versed in the drag race department which is just a pipe dream for me right now but maybe one of these days, if I ever have the means, I just might delve into it.

@@bodeine454 thanks Jeff, it has gotten very expensive which is why the sport has slacked off imo.

Money is no object, 500k racing through the years. Haters will always hate 🤦🏻‍♂️

That’s correct Dina and you’re welcome. Thanks for reaching out. Btw, I used to own then sold a 67 Charger.

So true, the MLS gaskets are an interruption in the grounding effect, I’m not sure how a copper gasket may work as I’ve never ran an O-ringed setup. It’s always good to battery ground the head.

Thanks, I’ll be confirming with a speedometer app soon. I’m thinking the speedo is off slightly as the bike runs great.

Yes Gary, it’s all about hitting that sweet spot in terms of performance RPM. Optimal launch is dictated per everything that’s included within the power plant, suspension, gearing, car weight, and of course, the converter. A spot on converter makes all the difference in drag racing 👍🏻💪🏻👍🏻

That’s a tough one Willie. You’ll definitely need to reach out to Coan Engineering. The horsepower to weight is rather low so they’ll have to answer that question.

Too tight imo.

It all depends if the engine is into its power band at launch. The cam grind makes the engine come alive with optimal power during take off if the rpm is correct. If the rpm is too low, the engine will bog. There are several factors that play into converter selection. This being said, you’ll need to provide this info to your converter manufacturer so they can recommend which converter fits your total package. Horsepower alone is not enough info. Car weight, gear ratio along with engine information is needed to more accurately make a determination. My recommendation would be to call a company like Coan Engineering, to speak with one of their experts. They will help square you away. Good luck and let me know how it all plays out. Thank you 👍🏻

@@ronthepoolstudent I am trying to find the cam card but I also have 8 speed 3.06 gears Procharger 6.5 lbs of boost .500whp car is like 4,000 plus lbs. if I am not mistaken stock converter flash’s 1800-2000 but not sure.

@@KillerPowerslave the cam card will definitely help.

Sorry I’m boring you 🤷🏻‍♂️ Btw, I’ve built 5 cars for friends through the years and have never charged a dime. They only needed to supply parts and paint. Today, I stick to my own junk.

Are you in West Michigan?

Btw, I’m reaching out to GoFast Productions (where I bought it from) to get the actual name of the manufacturer for you so hang tight.

@@ronsmusclecargarage4060 I’m not. I’m down in SC.

@@stibiumev1586 ahh, ok. I just spoke to my buddy that owns GoFast Productions. The rack that I bought is a Flaming River. These are basically Ford Pinto racks just so you know. I believe Summit Racing sells them also. Let me know if you have more questions 👍🏻

I didn’t know they made a 55cc version of the trail 90, thanks 👍🏻

I will and thanks. I’ll shoot a video this winter of the gas tank project. Stay tuned as it will be published on my RUclips channel.

Thank you Dave, I appreciate it. Although there are a few great converter companies, i’m a Coan Engineering guy. I’ve been running their converters for many years without issue. My suggestion would be to call the company to discus your package. Their expert will more accurately steer you into the converter that fits your needs and provide pricing. Please let me know what you find out as I’m curious. Thanks again 👍🏻

@ronthepoolstudent so I talked with them this morning. They are going to build me one, and he said the stall would end up around 2600 rpm based on my estimated setup. Great customer service. I dropped your name too👍 Thank you

@@DaveIrish66 glad it worked out Dave, I’m sure you’ll be happy with their converter. Thanks again for reaching out 👍🏻

That’s not an easy answer CC. The safest way would be to contact a reputable converter company like Coan Engineering to ask for guidance. They’ll ask questions pertaining to your power plant and vehicle, then give a recommendation of size. That’s my best answer and I wish you luck.

​@@ronthepoolstudent nah that still doesn't answer the question. Some of us would like to know why one is better than the other in different situations or just how they behave. Picking parts in a street car is all about compromise. So it's never as simple as picking the right part for the fastest ET and I have yet to have an expert pick the right part for my cars in the last 20 years. Every single time I've ended up swapping there suggestion a few months later for what they talked me out of and the part they talked me out of worked better for what I wanted.

@@nashvilleoutlaw Converter builds are science. I’ve had them built per dyno sheet and track performance based on data logging. Generally, I’ve had great success with Coan. This being said, it may require a second trip back to them for a tweak to catch that performance one is striving for. The bottom line; it’s up to the person to make the decisions that best suit their needs.

Thanks Oscar and thank you for your question. First off, that 2,200 suggested stall converter is way too low. That number would be more suited for a family type car. My best advice is to call Coan Engineering’s tech support then give them your info. They may also ask for more details. From this info, they will suggest a converter that’ll get you in the ball park. Also, what are your cam specs? I’ll await your reply before giving my personal stall advice. Thanks…

hi, and thx for you reply,, my cam specs are 227/235/ at.050 and 620/605 lift, and I think on the corvette came out with 3.1 ratio, not to sure,, @@ronthepoolstudent

@@oscaresquivel8583 thanks for the numbers Oscar. That cam is a low end torque cam so I’d rely on the converter company to plug in the numbers to see what they recommend. That’s the most accurate way to move forward. Please let me know what they say as I’m very curious. Thanks again 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻

The correct converter allows the engine to cam within its power range 👍🏻

This is why a dyno session is so important Jesse. Chasing your tail takes lots of time and money. First off, you’ll need to install a data acquisition system that measures rpm. This will tell you your stall at the hit, at the shift point/points and at the stripe. From this data, you can then share it with your converter builder along with the other information they require. This will save you from guessing. Good luck 👍🏻🍀 PS, Innovate makes an affordable data acquisition system. It’s a daisy chain setup which allows you to add additional data point measurements for other areas such as driveshaft speed, oil pressure etc etc etc…

Thank you Ronnie 👍🏻😊

@@ronsmusclecargarage4060 My car runs 5.66 @ 123 1/8 track I never run a 1/4 I just run foot brake a 1/4 would probably scare me !! Lol

@ronnielewis1862 glide or turbo 350/400?

@@ronsmusclecargarage4060 Its a glide 180 straight cut planetary , got 500 9" 35 spline axels, Vega Wagon I built in 2013!! Consistent !!

@@ronnielewis1862 cool, my 67 has a Coan internals, Reid Super Case glide. (176) Car weight is 2,885 race ready w/me. Old build made 875 n/a hp but new 568 made 908 n/a dyno hp. Best 1/8th et with old build was a 5.60 flat @ 124.76. 1/4 et @ 8.77 @ 154.31. Best package .002 and also very consistent of ethanol. Have not and won’t be running the car to see what it may run as I’m selling it and don’t want to damage anything as it’s entirely fresh from engine/trans/rear end. Should run low to mid 8.60s n/a.

Thank you Dooman 👍🏻

On a side note, I called Hughes about a converter a guy had for sale. They told me do not buy one of our on the shelf converters, you will flash it too high. I suggest calling the converter manufacturer before making a buy, esp a buy 1500 rpm higher than you need rule, that advice would kill the performance of a high torque application

@@doomman700 it’s actually only accurate if true dyno data is known, otherwise, it’s a shot in the dark with guesstimated info. Guarantee the converter will need to be built from trial & error to get it right. I’ve seen countless fellow gear head friends chase converters these past 45 years.

@@ronthepoolstudent to a point I agree. However you are dealing with guys that build converters for a living and have seen a lot of the combinations being built.

The cam was not the correct grind for e85 actually. You need At least 10° separation between the intake and exhaust with ethanol. Once I changed out the cam to a 280/291, the engine really woke up. 8.90s to an 8.77 best. Today, the engine makes 33 more horsepower. It will run 8.60s on motor.

@@ronthepoolstudent Nice.. good info. 👍

@@Torquemonster440 Bullet Cams helped me out with the correct grind. What a huge difference.

Hello Freddie, I did not weigh the difference between components but the weight savings was quite significant. My intention is to weigh the total package once all mods have been completed. The car weighed an even 3,020 pre modifications so I’m predicting it will be in the 2,850-2,900 range next time to the scales.

Awesome, give me a shout if you have any questions and thanks for subscribing 👍🏻😊👍🏻

Nice Gary, you’ll be doing it right by going this rout. We can guess, but it’s like hitting the lotto if you nail it this way 🤷🏻‍♂️ As far as weight, when I built my 69, this was always in the back of my mind. I wanted a custom deluxe interior package and glass widows w/regulators so I needed to trim the fat in other areas. Before this latest steering and brake upgrade, mine was at 3,020 pounds with an iron headed 427. (without me) it should be 2,900ish this go round.

Not heard of them, thanks 🤔🤷🏻‍♂️

Coan is top notch

Good units for sure 👍🏻

Once again, I’d have to search through all past video comments to find that answer. I’ll do a quick search as it may have been mentioned within the polishing vid.

I’ve searched through a few videos where I thought the brand was mentioned but did not see the comment. I know it’s somewhere so if you watch more vids, please check the back and forth threads as I had a conversation about these rims there. Thanks again 👍🏻

Weld Draglite wheels on the 69 and Weld Magnums on the front of the 67. To be truthful on those rears, I don’t know the brand. This being said, within the comments of one of my past videos, someone mentioned the name but that these are no longer available. Also, I would not recommend them anyway as they leak as they are a split type rim. I have to run live rubber tubes for that reason which adds 9 lbs per tire. They came with the car when I purchased it back in 06. NOT A FAN AT ALL. Sorry not to recall the brand Jax 🤷🏻‍♂️

They are truly the best imo Jeff 👍🏻😊👍🏻

Thank you for subscribing Jeff. 👍🏻😊👍🏻

Hi Jeff, I saw a comment yesterday that you posted asking me to check out a speed shop. I’m not finding it so please give me the name once again if you would, thanks 👍🏻

@@etenterprises ahh, gotcha 👍🏻 Will look now…

Once again, sorry to hear about your father Jeff. Thank you as well for sharing his inventory. If I ever need anything, I’ll reach out. Thanks again! Also, subscribed 👍🏻

Thanks man 👍🏻