Just ordered the 4 mounts from Rock Auto for $105 shipped. Gonna do this next week, can't say I'm looking forward to this job but this video will surely help me, thanks man.
newbie diy … thanks for making this video… your voice and narration is great to listen to guide me for future repair… excellent advise to watch out for… keep making this kinds of video 👊🏼👊🏼👊🏼
THANK You!!!!! You saved me a LOT of pain in a very simple, well-timed and edited video...all-around the BEST video I have watched on ANYthing auto related. You Rock - Wish you all the best!!
@@ixWebb It went well. I'd recommend ordering a few replacement bolts for the mounts. Really the only problems were: 1. I had to jack up the engine higher than I thought to get the new motor mount on. Pretty scary because I thought I was going to bend or break other things. Don't be afraid to jack it back up as needed to get the new motor mount on the stud and the other bolts lined up. Just don't go way crazy with it (you'd know if you were) 2. It was just a bit of a struggle to get the mount out once it was loose. Be patient patient patient. Other than that, you should be good
This video was super helpful and doesn't waste any time, thank you for making it! I'm currently in the middle of this project but am waiting on a replacement mount from Rock Auto. I bought the mount kit by SKP and the front mount was welded out of alignment so the bolt holes don't line up. Hard to describe without pictures but, if anyone is looking at mount kits, maybe try your luck with a different brand.
@@doiron12 maybe, but as a visual person this really helped me with preparing to do this replacement before I actually did it, regardless of who I bought the parts from. Some of these mount locations really tested my mf patience, but not too difficult of a task; takes a couple of hours in inexperienced hands
I hope that you will never adjust a jack while laying under the car again, especially with an oily engine. I know you had jack stands, but safety first man. You scared the hell out of me there! Other than that, you did a pretty good job. I have to replace one with a slightly bent frame on the driver's side, so we might be doing a video of how to bend it back with a sledge hammer and 2 x 6 if that is the case.
Awesome video, thank you soo for such a great explanation of the difference between the mounts and breaking down the steps on how to replace the mounts. Yes, keep it funny and light hearted as it made me smile and I genuinely enjoyed the video. I've ordered the hardened rubber 'Hardrace' right side mounts and plan to "fill" in the gaps of the OEM upper torque mount and lower mount with polyurethane. Civic FD1, 310bhp 250lbs-ft turbo'd R18, UK Keep up the great work! Peace Out.
If only the lower engine support has crack or need to replace..do i need to change the upper engine support, transmission support and the upper engine support passenger side?thanks
It depends on how long it has been bad. If the car was driven for a long time like that, the other mounts become more stressed and can fail soon after. If they are all original, it's highly likely the upper support is cracked too.
What's up Araparts I'm glad I came across your video for 2006 -2011 honda civic 1.8 motor mounts replacement. Great Job my boy. I have a question.... did you have to relearn or reprogram the ECM
@@veryrareray4462 it did fix it ever so slightly there’s still some vibrations but it’s not as bad as before. It’s not noticeable enough now for me to care. So yeah for how cheap the mounts are it’s worth it
That's true. It's technically not an engine mount. The official name is torque strut mount, but people have trouble finding it under it's own category. We include it with the other mounts as it performs the similar function of holding the engine from excessive rocking. There is an upper and lower torque strut mount.
Hi my friend. thank you , this video was excellent. i need help. i just bought a 2011 honda civic Lx. there are 2 bolt openings on the right side oil pan next to the pulleys. i see there is a part of the chasis that has 2 holes but i do not see any bolts thats holds the engine. the oil pan openins do not match with the 2 openis from the chasis. i was wondering if this car was involved in a crash and therefore the two parts do not match on the openins. other than this, the right arm was replaced snd engine mounta too. car runs perfect. i am not sure if i am missing a mount in this area where the bolts are missing. thank you in advance for helping
Superb detail! Thanks! I noticed you didn't mention anything about torque specs. Is that not a big deal in this application? Also, how do you know if the transmission mount is going bad? My 2011 Civic vibrates in Reverse only when the engine is cold. I took it to Firestone and a Honda specialist and they both confirmed that the front passenger side engine mount is wearing thin. No mention of the transmission mount. The car has 75K miles. Did you change the transmission mount due to mileage or? Thanks again for this thoughtful detailed video, I'm trying to save a few hundred bucks! :)
The service manual is online for free. The vibration in reverse from 8th gen Civics is usually due to the passenger side engine mount. The others are probably fine, but might as well replace them anyway while you're at it.
So I’m currently trying to get the bolt off of the lower torque strut mount, the one close to the oil pan. And it just won’t come off, there are two side by side and then one up top, well I can’t get the one that is parallel to the other. It’s just stuck I’ve tried everything. Any help?
I'm assuming there's a lot of rust. Obviously make sure your car is secured on jack stands, and you are using a lot of leverage like a breaker bar. The other 2 methods to remove stubborn bolts are either applying heat or penetrating oil.
@@araparts thanks. No rust at all. Maybe a little but not in that area. It’s just really stuck. I’ve tried a breaker bar. And any spray fo penetrate the bolt to help it come off
My engine has shifted when replacing each mount and strut. I can't get the engine to stay still and I can't get everything bolted back together. Any advice or anyone else with the same problem?
Dude. Excellent coverage! I got started and the 2nd 19mm won’t break loose. The one on the post was fine. But Busted two adapters (1/2-3/8) using pipe to extend the ratchet on the 19mm closest to firewall. Wd40 did nothing. Thoughts?
You hay have gotten it by now, but if you haven't I'd recommend a durable 1/2 inch and lots of leverage which it looks like you already have. Soaking it with WD-40 is good but for the really stubborn ones I would use heat. You can use a torch, or just remove those bolts while the engine is still hot. Those 19mm bolts are steel and thread into the aluminum head. Aluminum expands more than steel at the same temperature. Just careful putting them back on. It's easy to cross thread a steel bolt into aluminum threads.
I'm wondering if it would be better to take out the bottom mount while you have the engine supported and the bolts of the upper front engine mount out? This should make lifting the engine easier to allow room for the bottom mount.
It would make it easier, but it's not necessary. I had the top mounts connected when I installed the bottom mount. The engine was very easy to move enough to remove and install the bottom mount.
I changed the front right engine mount on my 2007 Honda Civic with one of these after market parts! BIG MISTAKE! I can't imagine doing the whole engine. I had insane vibration through the whole car. The aftermarket mounts use a stiffer rubber which does not absorb the vibration very well when its cold. After the radiant heat from the engine heated up the rubber then the vibration would lessen but still nothing like the OEM part. Do yourself a solid and just get the OEM parts. You will save yourself money and time!
What aftermarket brand was it? I’m looking into AA ignition (GWA auto parts ) and ENA in Amazon. The reviews aren’t specific. They don’t mention if they used it for a couple months
@@45kingofkings Don't use any aftermarket parts at least not for the passenger engine mount, I bought a $50 westar brand mount which just sagged a few days after install. Then I bought a DEA brand one for $150 that claimed was hydraulic but it actually was just fully rubber just like the rest and did the same thing and started sagging a few days after. I bought OEM and I could tell it was hydraulic as I could feel the oil moving inside and I've had it on for a few months with no signs of the gap shrinking. The cost of course is more expensive it cost me about $330 with tax included and shipping in Canada but hey no more vibrations
It won't matter which ones you start off with. I personally started off with the top mounts on this vehicle and then did the lower torque strut mount (much easier than the upper mounts).
I have a 2010 Coupe LX. What brand of motor mounts would you recommend ? Impossibly a decent place to order them from or buy them thanks much cheers 🤘🏻, also any recommendations on brand of mass air flow sensor and a good place to purchase parts like these
We offer the aftermarket mounts for this type of car. The mounts we offer are on the better end of the quality scale. There is a link in the description. There aren’t many OEM brands like the euro guys have (like Febi or Corteco) for engine mounts. As far as the mass air flow sensor, I recommend Hitachi# MAF0033 which is an OEM brand. We are actually rebuilding our website to offer these OEM brands at a discount. It should be finished by the winter time. Otherwise, I would Google search that part number. There are a lot of other good retailers to find this part at.
Got quoted about 6 hrs of labor for all mounts and $150/part. Guy never gave me a specific number but I'm assuming $1500 easy. Gonna try doing this myself and buy the parts myself. Are the parts in your link OEM or aftermarket?
The parts in the link are aftermarket. If they are quoting $150 per mount, that sounds about what the OEM mounts would cost if you buy them yourself…. shops may quote that price for aftermarket mounts too, so I would ask them what type of mounts they are quoting you for.
@@araparts If I take my time to do it right what do you think I can expect with time commitment? Keep in mind I'm not super experienced with DIY car repair, but I'm very meticulous and deliberate.
@@tun6006 Taking into consideration that you are not experienced with DIY, I would give yourself a solid late morning to early afternoon, and that's being a bit liberal with time...aka about 6-8 hours taking your time. I think you can knock it out faster than that honestly, and once you knock it out, you'll realize that this isn't too bad. A professional should be able to knock all 4 engine mounts out in less than 2 hours. I won't knock the shop for charging what they charge, but this can be done for a LOT less. Their quote takes into consideration the overhead - labor costs, rent, liability, shop manual subscriptions, warranty, etc. All of these are only getting more expensive by the week & if something goes wrong, they are on the hook. In my opinion, this job is not hard at all, but that is only opinion from someone with 18 years of DIY experience (with 5 of those years working at a shop). Here are some of the challenges and time consuming things you may run into: -Finding the right tool. This is where a lot of my time still goes haha. -Dropping and losing/attempting to retrieve a tool -Having trouble getting the mounts to line up. Remember to raise or lower the engine. and watch your hands & fingers. -Rounding off or cross threading bolts. At 2:11 the 19 mm bolt and stud should be threaded in by hand carefully. Sometimes it might come out with the nut. If it does, just carefully thread it back on. It doesn't need to be tightened like a bolt. Just thread it all the way down. The 19mm stud & bolt are steel that thread into an aluminum head, which is VERY easy to cross thread. Take your time threading these in by hand before you start tightening them. If you live in the rust belt, and you see a lot of rust, I would consider using heat (any torch from Autozone, Home Depot, Walmart, etc) OR penetrating oil to get the bolts to loosen up. Some of them are tight, so make sure you have a breaker bar/ a lot of leverage to break those bolts loose.
Hello great video. When disconnecting the ECU and connecting it back does it need to be reset or is everything just plug and everything will start working normal again ?
It won't need to be reset or anything like that. The act of disconnecting the battery will reset the ECU. It's basically bolt off, bolt on and you're good to go.
Any tips on lining up the bolts for the lower/rear mount? The stock mount slid out easily but I can not for the life of me slide in the new mount into the area. Seems like the fatter part of the mount facing the rear of the car is too thick and won't slide in there. I eventually gave up and put back in the torn up mount that I just took out 😔. I ordered it from 1AAUTO. Looks identical to the stock mount but just doesn't slide in there
The only thing I can think of is to raise the engine more with your jack, which I'm sure you've already done. I had to lift the engine more upon the install of the lower torque strut mount.
Do we need to follow the same pattern as you use first change the side engine mount than lower torque mount and in the last transmission mount or randomly change all of them??
I've done 3 of the four . Trans is the last one. My car still has a vibration when ac compressor kicks on . Goes away when kicks off . But the trans acts normal . You guys think it's the trans ? Or do these cars still vibrate a bit with ac on max ?
If the problem remains the same after replacing all 4 mounts, then I would rule out bad mounts. I would start checking other related components that can affect idle speed like the AC compressor, IACV, etc
Thank you for the video! Very helpful! I did this and have a couple questions for you for a year 2006, manual transmission: 1) in my car, there is a hard line above the transmission side mount to where I had to hacksaw the old piece of metal connecting the mount to the engine and it made it really difficult to get the new one on, do you know what this is? It's not in this video and is not in another I saw. Also, my transmission side mount does not have a metal piece that goes on top, it wasn't there in the first place - do you know if this was added in later years? 2) I accidentally bought the automatic transmission struts. Do you know the risk of using these in a manual transmission car instead of the metal ones? Much thanks and keep up the great videos!
1 - I'm not familiar with a hard line in that area. It could be an extra option or an aftermarket accessory. As for the metal piece on top, I would think that all of the years had this, though the car in this video is a 2006 model (the first year) so I can't confirm that 100%. 2- I would rather use the torque strut mounts that are designated for the car. They do look similar, and seem possible to swap, but it doesn't seem worth it imo.
@@araparts Thanks for the follow-up! I found out that the hard line is for the clutch. And thanks for the advice about the struts - I plan on getting to them pretty quickly!
Brooo I’m trying to order all 4 OEM motor mounts from a Honda dealership for my 2010 Honda Civic Coupe but can you give me the exact nomenclature for the parts? Or even better, the part numbers? I don’t wanna order the wrong parts
Not sure if you still need the numbers, but here is what I have. Keep in mind, these part numbers may have been superseded, but the dealers can usually find what you need, even with a superseded number: 50820-SVA-A05 Right hand mount (main oil filled mount) 50890-SNA-A81 Lower Torque Strut Mount (AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION ONLY) 50890-SNA-A02 Lower Torque Strut Mount (MANUAL TRANSMISSION ONLY) 50880-SNA-A81 Upper Torque Strut Mount (AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION ONLY) 50880-SNA-A02 Upper Torque Strut Mount (MANUAL TRANSMISSION ONLY) 50850-SNA-A01 Transmission Mount
The 2006 Civic EX has 4 mounts: 1: Right hand passenger's side (by the timing cover) 2:Transmission mount (driver's side) 3: Lower torque strut mount 4: Upper torque strut mount (Connects to right hand mount)
For most vehicles, we see an average of around 5 years. Some shorter, and some much longer. It depends on the climate, driving style, and which mount location. Drier climates see more wear in the rubber, aggressive acceleration from stop and go will definitely shorten the life, and the mounts the typically wear faster in this type of vehicle layout (transverse layout for front wheel drive vehicles) are usually the mounts closest to the timing cover as those mounts carry most of the engine weight and forces. Also, if any oil is leaking onto the mounts, that will drastically shorten the life of the mount.
If you're having trouble with the lower mount, you have to raise the engine up a little bit more. I was not able to remove or install the mount without lifting the engine up.
Araparts is there such a thing as raising the engine too high? lol .....I practically popped it out the front when I raised it to try and get it in place. Do the other engine mounts need to be installed prior to installing this 1?
@@rafapz2347 Yes - If you lift too much, you can actually lift up the front end of the entire car! 😲 So watch out for that. It won't matter which mount you install first.
This was a great tutorial. I have a big problem though. I changed the driver side engine mount a week ago (upper right). There were vibrations before which went away immediately. What is troubling me is is that on a cold start, the vibration is back (exact same vibration when the mount was broken). It goes away after about 10-15 minutes of driving and never comes back untill the next day cold start. What could it be? I can't seem to find an answer.
Try removing and reinstalling the top aluminum bracket for that mount. If it is overtightened, it can stretch (twist) the rubber causing it to be stiffer than intended, and even wear prematurely. I would try doing that first. The one bolt in particular you want to focus on is the one right on the top of the rubber part of the mount.
@@araparts Thanks. I'm going to a workshop soon to loosen bolts for all the mounts, 're seat' the engine properly and then tighten bolts to spec. Something I should have done before.
I think this can be done at home since it's only 1 bolt in particular. It's not guaranteed to fix the problem, but it's one of the reasons this can happen. It's the 17mm (I believe) bolt that holds the bracket to the rubber at 6:12 in the video. If that bolt is too tight, the rubber starts to twist. When it twists, it stiffens the rubber up, and can cause all sorts of vibration problems. The other bolts can be as tight as you want and wouldn't cause that particular issue, though I wouldn't recommend going ham on all of them for no reason lol. I'd just loosen the bolt up and re tighten it. I believe the manual states 52 ft lbs for that bolt in particular.
What I have noticed right away as soon as honda started building there cars in the u.s wierd thing started showing up .I yhin the u,s wanted the Honda built over the U,S so they can start putting shitty parts in to make the honda try and fail Just like the big three does the use shit parts So every thing falls apart faster the shoul of left the honda cars Being built still in Japan there was never any wierd problems until they were built in the US SOUND LIKE A ATTACK TO MR
![[Tutorial] 2006 - 2011 Honda Civic Upper Motor Mount Replacement](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/FPWpmCJSDUQ/mqdefault.jpg)
One of the best videos out there for doing these mount change outs; you Sir, deserve many (many) more Thumbs Ups!
Bolt torque specifications would be the best thing to add. Other than that, it's the best video I've found.
The service manual is online for free.
36 to the car, 47 to the mount, and i think 54 on the engine.
I just did 100 on the serious bolts to the frame. If it's good enough for my lug nuts it's good enough for my engine mount.
Just ordered the 4 mounts from Rock Auto for $105 shipped. Gonna do this next week, can't say I'm looking forward to this job but this video will surely help me, thanks man.
just ordered all 4 manual mounts from rock auto too, how well did tha installation process go
Awesome detail and explanation! Good job, Araparts!! You're one of the better demonstrators of repairs out there. I subscribed!
Don't fool around with unnecessary remarks on your videos. They are very good, helpful & people need to get the job done. Thanks for your help.
newbie diy … thanks for making this video… your voice and narration is great to listen to guide me for future repair… excellent advise to watch out for… keep making this kinds of video 👊🏼👊🏼👊🏼
THANK You!!!!! You saved me a LOT of pain in a very simple, well-timed and edited video...all-around the BEST video I have watched on ANYthing auto related. You Rock - Wish you all the best!!
Awesome..! I'm ready to replace the motor mount on my Honda civic 2009.
You're the best..Thanks man..!!
Thank you! Picked up a 2006 Manual and need to replace the mounts. Your video has me anxiously excited to dig in and get it done, thank you!
Thanks for the info on the auto vs. manual mounts!! Did not find that anywhere else.
Best video I've seen about replacing engine mounts. Going to order the parts and use this guide to change them. Much thanks brother!
How did it go?
@@ixWebb It went well. I'd recommend ordering a few replacement bolts for the mounts. Really the only problems were:
1. I had to jack up the engine higher than I thought to get the new motor mount on. Pretty scary because I thought I was going to bend or break other things. Don't be afraid to jack it back up as needed to get the new motor mount on the stud and the other bolts lined up. Just don't go way crazy with it (you'd know if you were)
2. It was just a bit of a struggle to get the mount out once it was loose. Be patient patient patient.
Other than that, you should be good
Thx brother for this video, you can be a host speaker or a reporter. A big job explained in an easy fashion thx
Thanks for the video, man. I'm doing this job on my daughter's car soon. It'll save her a grand.
This video was super helpful and doesn't waste any time, thank you for making it!
I'm currently in the middle of this project but am waiting on a replacement mount from Rock Auto.
I bought the mount kit by SKP and the front mount was welded out of alignment so the bolt holes don't line up.
Hard to describe without pictures but, if anyone is looking at mount kits, maybe try your luck with a different brand.
One of the more informative how to videos out there well done.
Excellent video! Good details that other videos didn't include. Thank you!
You rule for taking the time to make this!
Its because they're trying to promote their inferior after market parts
@@doiron12 maybe, but as a visual person this really helped me with preparing to do this replacement before I actually did it, regardless of who I bought the parts from. Some of these mount locations really tested my mf patience, but not too difficult of a task; takes a couple of hours in inexperienced hands
good video my mounts were very tight over 400 ft. pounds of torque! but again the video was great!
Thanks a ton. Saved a lot of money following your video. Thanks again.
Thank u broski👍🏼😎that was so dope how u diagramed the bolt mm size in the videos with arrows...and also explained the parts in the beginning...thanx
Thank you SO! very much, bro. EXCELLENT! video. I'm impressed. Keep up the great work and have a great one!
Sooo glad this is useful to you!!
I hope that you will never adjust a jack while laying under the car again, especially with an oily engine. I know you had jack stands, but safety first man. You scared the hell out of me there! Other than that, you did a pretty good job. I have to replace one with a slightly bent frame on the driver's side, so we might be doing a video of how to bend it back with a sledge hammer and 2 x 6 if that is the case.
You're awesome dude, thanks so much, saved me so much time and confusion
Hey man thank you sooo much. You literally just saved me like 1200 bucks
Thanks so much!! You saved me hundreds.
Stoked on this vid bro!
Nice video! Thank you!
Nice video doing these this weekend on my 08 civic. Nice to know the difference with the auto and manual torque rods. Many thanks
Awesome video, thank you soo for such a great explanation of the difference between the mounts and breaking down the steps on how to replace the mounts.
Yes, keep it funny and light hearted as it made me smile and I genuinely enjoyed the video.
I've ordered the hardened rubber 'Hardrace' right side mounts and plan to "fill" in the gaps of the OEM upper torque mount and lower mount with polyurethane.
Civic FD1, 310bhp 250lbs-ft turbo'd R18, UK
Keep up the great work! Peace Out.
Very good job. Good explanation. Your are awesome guys.
Great video thanks, humpur always appreciated, can do more😂
Great Video.. Thanks for the detail. Anyone have a long term review on these parts? Thanks
thanks a million , God bless you 🤙🏽🔧
If only the lower engine support has crack or need to replace..do i need to change the upper engine support, transmission support and the upper engine support passenger side?thanks
It depends on how long it has been bad. If the car was driven for a long time like that, the other mounts become more stressed and can fail soon after. If they are all original, it's highly likely the upper support is cracked too.
Thanks for the video very helpful
Ay man I really appreciate you taking the time to make this video, you did a great job and it saved my ass
What's up Araparts I'm glad I came across your video for 2006 -2011 honda civic 1.8 motor mounts replacement. Great Job my boy. I have a question.... did you have to relearn or reprogram the ECM
Didn't need to relearn or reprogram ECU in this case. Just plugged in back in and was good to go.
@@araparts I wanted to share, on my behalf that by far you have great videos best channel for learning thank you
Supreme victory
Excelente curso gracias muy entendido
Thank you !!
Great video
Did this helps anyones vibration around 1,000 rpm?
Did you ever figure it out or change the mounts ??
@@veryrareray4462 it did fix it ever so slightly there’s still some vibrations but it’s not as bad as before. It’s not noticeable enough now for me to care. So yeah for how cheap the mounts are it’s worth it
11:08 - It looks like the jack stand is not on the pinch weld. The pinch weld appears to be a few inches in front of the jack stand.
Very good video.
There's three mounts and a dog bone/ torque rod unless I'm missing something. The torque rod isn't a mount
That's true. It's technically not an engine mount. The official name is torque strut mount, but people have trouble finding it under it's own category. We include it with the other mounts as it performs the similar function of holding the engine from excessive rocking. There is an upper and lower torque strut mount.
Thank you Awasome video
Hi my friend. thank you , this video was excellent. i need help. i just bought a 2011 honda civic Lx. there are 2 bolt openings on the right side oil pan next to the pulleys. i see there is a part of the chasis that has 2 holes but i do not see any bolts thats holds the engine. the oil pan openins do not match with the 2 openis from the chasis. i was wondering if this car was involved in a crash and therefore the two parts do not match on the openins. other than this, the right arm was replaced snd engine mounta too. car runs perfect. i am not sure if i am missing a mount in this area where the bolts are missing. thank you in advance for helping
Superb detail! Thanks! I noticed you didn't mention anything about torque specs. Is that not a big deal in this application? Also, how do you know if the transmission mount is going bad? My 2011 Civic vibrates in Reverse only when the engine is cold. I took it to Firestone and a Honda specialist and they both confirmed that the front passenger side engine mount is wearing thin. No mention of the transmission mount. The car has 75K miles. Did you change the transmission mount due to mileage or? Thanks again for this thoughtful detailed video, I'm trying to save a few hundred bucks! :)
The service manual is online for free. The vibration in reverse from 8th gen Civics is usually due to the passenger side engine mount. The others are probably fine, but might as well replace them anyway while you're at it.
So I’m currently trying to get the bolt off of the lower torque strut mount, the one close to the oil pan. And it just won’t come off, there are two side by side and then one up top, well I can’t get the one that is parallel to the other. It’s just stuck I’ve tried everything. Any help?
I'm assuming there's a lot of rust. Obviously make sure your car is secured on jack stands, and you are using a lot of leverage like a breaker bar. The other 2 methods to remove stubborn bolts are either applying heat or penetrating oil.
@@araparts thanks. No rust at all. Maybe a little but not in that area. It’s just really stuck. I’ve tried a breaker bar. And any spray fo penetrate the bolt to help it come off
My engine has shifted when replacing each mount and strut. I can't get the engine to stay still and I can't get everything bolted back together. Any advice or anyone else with the same problem?
I'd hire you if you were close.
Dude. Excellent coverage!
I got started and the 2nd 19mm won’t break loose. The one on the post was fine. But Busted two adapters (1/2-3/8) using pipe to extend the ratchet on the 19mm closest to firewall. Wd40 did nothing. Thoughts?
You hay have gotten it by now, but if you haven't I'd recommend a durable 1/2 inch and lots of leverage which it looks like you already have. Soaking it with WD-40 is good but for the really stubborn ones I would use heat. You can use a torch, or just remove those bolts while the engine is still hot. Those 19mm bolts are steel and thread into the aluminum head. Aluminum expands more than steel at the same temperature. Just careful putting them back on. It's easy to cross thread a steel bolt into aluminum threads.
Any suggestions for where to get the parts for this job? Thank you very much
I'm wondering if it would be better to take out the bottom mount while you have the engine supported and the bolts of the upper front engine mount out? This should make lifting the engine easier to allow room for the bottom mount.
It would make it easier, but it's not necessary. I had the top mounts connected when I installed the bottom mount. The engine was very easy to move enough to remove and install the bottom mount.
My honda civic engine moving during transmission. (Changine R TO D) is it necessary to change all engine mounts
I changed the front right engine mount on my 2007 Honda Civic with one of these after market parts! BIG MISTAKE! I can't imagine doing the whole engine. I had insane vibration through the whole car. The aftermarket mounts use a stiffer rubber which does not absorb the vibration very well when its cold. After the radiant heat from the engine heated up the rubber then the vibration would lessen but still nothing like the OEM part. Do yourself a solid and just get the OEM parts. You will save yourself money and time!
What aftermarket brand was it? I’m looking into AA ignition (GWA auto parts ) and ENA in Amazon. The reviews aren’t specific. They don’t mention if they used it for a couple months
@@45kingofkings Don't use any aftermarket parts at least not for the passenger engine mount, I bought a $50 westar brand mount which just sagged a few days after install.
Then I bought a DEA brand one for $150 that claimed was hydraulic but it actually was just fully rubber just like the rest and did the same thing and started sagging a few days after.
I bought OEM and I could tell it was hydraulic as I could feel the oil moving inside and I've had it on for a few months with no signs of the gap shrinking. The cost of course is more expensive it cost me about $330 with tax included and shipping in Canada but hey no more vibrations
Ride side engine mount if its already broken it has knocking sound on the uneven roads?
Is there torque settings for the bolts included with the mounts? Excellent attention to detail in your explanation.
The service manual is online for free.
Can you start off with the bottom mount? Or is it better to start with the top ones?
It won't matter which ones you start off with. I personally started off with the top mounts on this vehicle and then did the lower torque strut mount (much easier than the upper mounts).
Great detail video👏🏾👍🏾🙏🏿, question OEM or aftermarket engine mount and engine torque mounts?.
We used aftermarket on this vehicle.
how are the aftermarket mounts holding up? trying to decide oem or aftermarket. oem is expensive !!
@@araparts do you carry the mounts for 2012 civic ex auto?
@@TheKjowrph We don't carry the mounts for the 2012 at the moment unfortunately.
Excelent video!
Congrat!
Did you use oem parts? And do u reccomend oem parts. I heard engine mounts arent parts you want to cheap out on.
Used aftermarket on this job.
@crtucker should learn how to hold the camera steady.
I have a 2010 Coupe LX. What brand of motor mounts would you recommend ? Impossibly a decent place to order them from or buy them thanks much cheers 🤘🏻, also any recommendations on brand of mass air flow sensor and a good place to purchase parts like these
We offer the aftermarket mounts for this type of car. The mounts we offer are on the better end of the quality scale. There is a link in the description.
There aren’t many OEM brands like the euro guys have (like Febi or Corteco) for engine mounts.
As far as the mass air flow sensor, I recommend Hitachi# MAF0033 which is an OEM brand. We are actually rebuilding our website to offer these OEM brands at a discount. It should be finished by the winter time. Otherwise, I would Google search that part number. There are a lot of other good retailers to find this part at.
Hi I have question. those parts are the same for Honda Civic VIII 1.8 VTEC Fn (hatchback) 2009. EU version ?
Are the mounts for the Type R different or same?
Got quoted about 6 hrs of labor for all mounts and $150/part. Guy never gave me a specific number but I'm assuming $1500 easy. Gonna try doing this myself and buy the parts myself. Are the parts in your link OEM or aftermarket?
The parts in the link are aftermarket. If they are quoting $150 per mount, that sounds about what the OEM mounts would cost if you buy them yourself…. shops may quote that price for aftermarket mounts too, so I would ask them what type of mounts they are quoting you for.
@@araparts If I take my time to do it right what do you think I can expect with time commitment? Keep in mind I'm not super experienced with DIY car repair, but I'm very meticulous and deliberate.
@@tun6006 Taking into consideration that you are not experienced with DIY, I would give yourself a solid late morning to early afternoon, and that's being a bit liberal with time...aka about 6-8 hours taking your time. I think you can knock it out faster than that honestly, and once you knock it out, you'll realize that this isn't too bad. A professional should be able to knock all 4 engine mounts out in less than 2 hours. I won't knock the shop for charging what they charge, but this can be done for a LOT less. Their quote takes into consideration the overhead - labor costs, rent, liability, shop manual subscriptions, warranty, etc. All of these are only getting more expensive by the week & if something goes wrong, they are on the hook.
In my opinion, this job is not hard at all, but that is only opinion from someone with 18 years of DIY experience (with 5 of those years working at a shop).
Here are some of the challenges and time consuming things you may run into:
-Finding the right tool. This is where a lot of my time still goes haha.
-Dropping and losing/attempting to retrieve a tool
-Having trouble getting the mounts to line up. Remember to raise or lower the engine. and watch your hands & fingers.
-Rounding off or cross threading bolts. At 2:11 the 19 mm bolt and stud should be threaded in by hand carefully. Sometimes it might come out with the nut. If it does, just carefully thread it back on. It doesn't need to be tightened like a bolt. Just thread it all the way down. The 19mm stud & bolt are steel that thread into an aluminum head, which is VERY easy to cross thread. Take your time threading these in by hand before you start tightening them.
If you live in the rust belt, and you see a lot of rust, I would consider using heat (any torch from Autozone, Home Depot, Walmart, etc) OR penetrating oil to get the bolts to loosen up. Some of them are tight, so make sure you have a breaker bar/ a lot of leverage to break those bolts loose.
Would these torque specs be proper for a 2006 Honda Civic hybrid?
so what parts did you use OEM or aftermarket....Thanks! Happy New Year Play it Safe!
These are aftermarket.
Hello great video. When disconnecting the ECU and connecting it back does it need to be reset or is everything just plug and everything will start working normal again ?
It won't need to be reset or anything like that. The act of disconnecting the battery will reset the ECU. It's basically bolt off, bolt on and you're good to go.
Thank you 🙏
Any tips on lining up the bolts for the lower/rear mount? The stock mount slid out easily but I can not for the life of me slide in the new mount into the area. Seems like the fatter part of the mount facing the rear of the car is too thick and won't slide in there. I eventually gave up and put back in the torn up mount that I just took out 😔. I ordered it from 1AAUTO. Looks identical to the stock mount but just doesn't slide in there
The only thing I can think of is to raise the engine more with your jack, which I'm sure you've already done. I had to lift the engine more upon the install of the lower torque strut mount.
Do we need to follow the same pattern as you use first change the side engine mount than lower torque mount and in the last transmission mount or randomly change all of them??
You can change any mount without having to follow a pattern.
@araparts Hi I have question. those parts are the same for Honda Civic VIII 1.8 VTEC Fn (hatchback) 2009. EU version ?
After doing some research on this, it appears that they are the same for the EU 1.8L version as well.
I've done 3 of the four . Trans is the last one. My car still has a vibration when ac compressor kicks on . Goes away when kicks off . But the trans acts normal . You guys think it's the trans ? Or do these cars still vibrate a bit with ac on max ?
If the problem remains the same after replacing all 4 mounts, then I would rule out bad mounts. I would start checking other related components that can affect idle speed like the AC compressor, IACV, etc
@@araparts thx will check those out.
Thank you for the video! Very helpful! I did this and have a couple questions for you for a year 2006, manual transmission:
1) in my car, there is a hard line above the transmission side mount to where I had to hacksaw the old piece of metal connecting the mount to the engine and it made it really difficult to get the new one on, do you know what this is? It's not in this video and is not in another I saw.
Also, my transmission side mount does not have a metal piece that goes on top, it wasn't there in the first place - do you know if this was added in later years?
2) I accidentally bought the automatic transmission struts. Do you know the risk of using these in a manual transmission car instead of the metal ones?
Much thanks and keep up the great videos!
1 - I'm not familiar with a hard line in that area. It could be an extra option or an aftermarket accessory. As for the metal piece on top, I would think that all of the years had this, though the car in this video is a 2006 model (the first year) so I can't confirm that 100%.
2- I would rather use the torque strut mounts that are designated for the car. They do look similar, and seem possible to swap, but it doesn't seem worth it imo.
@@araparts Thanks for the follow-up! I found out that the hard line is for the clutch. And thanks for the advice about the struts - I plan on getting to them pretty quickly!
Brooo I’m trying to order all 4 OEM motor mounts from a Honda dealership for my 2010 Honda Civic Coupe but can you give me the exact nomenclature for the parts? Or even better, the part numbers? I don’t wanna order the wrong parts
Not sure if you still need the numbers, but here is what I have. Keep in mind, these part numbers may have been superseded, but the dealers can usually find what you need, even with a superseded number:
50820-SVA-A05 Right hand mount (main oil filled mount)
50890-SNA-A81 Lower Torque Strut Mount (AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION ONLY)
50890-SNA-A02 Lower Torque Strut Mount (MANUAL TRANSMISSION ONLY)
50880-SNA-A81 Upper Torque Strut Mount (AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION ONLY)
50880-SNA-A02 Upper Torque Strut Mount (MANUAL TRANSMISSION ONLY)
50850-SNA-A01 Transmission Mount
If you haven't done it already, just get the 1A Auto kit for all 4 mounts. They have it for both auto and manual.
How many Motor Mounts does a Honda Civic 2006 EX has ?
The 2006 Civic EX has 4 mounts:
1: Right hand passenger's side (by the timing cover)
2:Transmission mount (driver's side)
3: Lower torque strut mount
4: Upper torque strut mount (Connects to right hand mount)
How long do these motor mounts last?
For most vehicles, we see an average of around 5 years. Some shorter, and some much longer. It depends on the climate, driving style, and which mount location. Drier climates see more wear in the rubber, aggressive acceleration from stop and go will definitely shorten the life, and the mounts the typically wear faster in this type of vehicle layout (transverse layout for front wheel drive vehicles) are usually the mounts closest to the timing cover as those mounts carry most of the engine weight and forces. Also, if any oil is leaking onto the mounts, that will drastically shorten the life of the mount.
How many miles were on that civic then and now?
That car had around 240k on it at the time. I don't know how many miles it has now.
The lower torque engine mount won’t slide back in. I can’t get it back in place. Can you please help?
If you're having trouble with the lower mount, you have to raise the engine up a little bit more. I was not able to remove or install the mount without lifting the engine up.
Araparts is there such a thing as raising the engine too high? lol .....I practically popped it out the front when I raised it to try and get it in place. Do the other engine mounts need to be installed prior to installing this 1?
@@rafapz2347 Yes - If you lift too much, you can actually lift up the front end of the entire car! 😲 So watch out for that. It won't matter which mount you install first.
This was a great tutorial.
I have a big problem though.
I changed the driver side engine mount a week ago (upper right). There were vibrations before which went away immediately. What is troubling me is is that on a cold start, the vibration is back (exact same vibration when the mount was broken).
It goes away after about 10-15 minutes of driving and never comes back untill the next day cold start.
What could it be?
I can't seem to find an answer.
Try removing and reinstalling the top aluminum bracket for that mount. If it is overtightened, it can stretch (twist) the rubber causing it to be stiffer than intended, and even wear prematurely. I would try doing that first.
The one bolt in particular you want to focus on is the one right on the top of the rubber part of the mount.
@@araparts Thanks.
I'm going to a workshop soon to loosen bolts for all the mounts, 're seat' the engine properly and then tighten bolts to spec. Something I should have done before.
I think this can be done at home since it's only 1 bolt in particular. It's not guaranteed to fix the problem, but it's one of the reasons this can happen. It's the 17mm (I believe) bolt that holds the bracket to the rubber at 6:12 in the video. If that bolt is too tight, the rubber starts to twist. When it twists, it stiffens the rubber up, and can cause all sorts of vibration problems. The other bolts can be as tight as you want and wouldn't cause that particular issue, though I wouldn't recommend going ham on all of them for no reason lol. I'd just loosen the bolt up and re tighten it. I believe the manual states 52 ft lbs for that bolt in particular.
Camera man needs to pay attention to what he's filming.
My honda is a 2006 it should not of failed why.. its plenty heavy enough normally with a honda regular maintenance is all.thats required
The moter mount on the right should not of failed theres no oil leaks thsts odd
What I have noticed right away as soon as honda started building there cars in the u.s wierd thing started showing up .I yhin the u,s wanted the Honda built over the U,S so they can start putting shitty parts in to make the honda try and fail
Just like the big three does the use shit parts
So every thing falls apart faster the shoul of left the honda cars
Being built still in Japan there was never any wierd problems until they were built in the US SOUND LIKE A ATTACK TO MR
Soud to mr like the goverment is trying to screw up foreign cars do eere forces to bu domestic junk well.i wont
Looks like you have a power steering leak.
Yeah this car had a leaky power steering hose.
I love this movie.
Exactly what I needed. What’s ur cash app/PayPal/Venmo. You saved me $$. I owe you.