I am removing my motor using your video as guidance, but I have a manual transmission. I have the motor separated from the transmission, but it doesn't seem like there is room for the clutch assembly to clear the transmission housing. Do you know if I can get the motor out without pulling my manual transmission?
This is some serious confidence boosting content here. I BLEW my R18A1, I didn't send it but it's done, I'm going to wait til engines go on special at the junk yard and find a complete on, because of YOU my car will live to die another day, thank you sir, you are an gentleman and a scholar.
Great video, I purchased my first Honda a year ago, 2007 Civic 1.8 L DX. Using your video I replaced the engine, " the old owner blew a coolant line and drove until it stopped dead". One thing is for sure, I will never buy another one. I am 6,3 and 260 lbs with large hands. These cars were not made to work on for men my size, LOL. However your video was a great tutorial.
Thanks! Helped me remove and install engine in 2009 honda civic. Only problem I had was I forgot to hook up the camshaft position sensor on the top back of motor behind the intake. Caused a CEL light and "D" flashing whenever vechicle started , which took a while due to the p0365 code from a faulty camshaft position sensor. The whole time it was the sensor not connected. Starts and runs fine no issues. Thanks!
Thank you for posting this extremely helpful video! I swapped a blown engine for a replacement JDM in my daughter's 2009 civic last weekend and your video/instructions came in very handy. Appreciate you sharing your knowledge! :)
Thanks for creating this video. It was very simply and clear. Although I know it will take me a couple days to completely replace my engine as I am just a backyard mechanic.
I had a problem with the torque converter stuck in the crankshaft. This made removing the engine a struggle because of the extra clearance required. Even with the engine out and on the ground the torque converter took a lot of effort to pry loose. Not sure what to do in situations like this. Fortunately I was able to get the TC back into the transmission correctly and then installing the new engine following your video was easy.
Yeah that year of civic was bad design the tc ripple in the back is tight when disengage tc from flex plate take a lot effort. Gladly you manage it out. In my video I did warning everyone about it. You did a great job buddy.
thanks for the video...My friends motor tossed a rod...pieces all over the front of the engine...Unfortunately I am in Canada, so nothing is coming apart easily...lots of broken bolts...nuts rusted to a different shape...this video will help me a lot and save me a great deal of time
If you have access to a vehicle lift and jack that has a big flat table then it is much easier to remove the engine and transmissions out of the vehicle and work on it from there you just have to drop the sub frame which is difficult at all. Doing it from the bottom you can leave everything on the engine except the A/C compressor obviously unless you can extract the R134 properly. Otherwise though this is an extremely informative video. P.S. if you are only replacing the block then please do not forget the black rubber coolant diverter that goes in from of cylinder number 1 in a square corner inside the coolant passage. Otherwise the engine will take forever to get to operating temperature.
I'm already contemplating if this is worth it. How much was engine you bought? Plus I believe my heater core is junk. Still cheaper than buying a car, but a lot of money.
If that is the engine in the 2008 Civic, I have experienced the crack in the block. Front face of the engine, vertical crack. Car was 8 years old, 191,000 miles when the crack developed. Looked up info online, saw where the recall had been extended. Took the car to Honda, they verified the crack. Lent me a new Accord, three days later I got the car back with a new long block installed. Not rebuilt but a new engine from Honda. Still have that car, my daily commuter now with 330,000 miles. I have bought two new Hondas since then. Only cars I buy, Honda and Toyota.
My 06 civic lx is original with 240k and finally leak coolant due to crack block in rear. Puddle of coolant once I refilled it lol. Debating to swap motoor or junk it. But every thing still runs gooooood. So I might just do it
I will probably never remove the engine but I own this same vehicle and this was so cool to watch. Could you now use the engine on display to point out the different parts/areas that go bad, like where will these engines most likely leak from. Thanks a bunch and God bless.
Awesome video! Thanks so much for the information :) 2 questions for you at 6:52 you have a long wrench with low profile rachet ends on it. I have never seen one of those before. Do you have a link or name of the tool? Also at 11:30 you use a 90 degree angled adapter. I could find them for drills, but does yours use 1/4 or 3/8 inputs?
@Bryan’s Locks meh, HF has some good cheap stuff, just gotta know what to get and what not to get. Like their Jack stands lol don't do it. A lot of crap I will admit but a lot of decent stuff. They have the Daytona jacks and is exactly the same jack as one of snap ons, exactly lol, from same place they make them. A lot of their 6 point sockets are great, especially for the price.
Thanks for taking the time to make such a helpful video. I’m going to be doing this on a 2006 with a 5 speed manual. Do you know if there is room to move the engine to the passenger side enough to get the clutch assembly off the transmission input shaft and be able to then lift the engine straight up like you did in this video? Thanks!
My brother bought a 06 Civic a couple of months ago an the engine is knocking...we just going to find another motor an use it as a spare for both of us...
I have to do a clutch on my 07. Would it be easier just pull the engine? I don't have a lift, and I would rather not do the whole job underneath the car.
If the flex plate and transmission bolts are out then the torque converter nipple is catching on the flywheel hole( same thing happened to me) . Make sure the engine and trans completely aligned, you maybhave to lower the engine a little. Use the 17mm bolt holes on the engine and trans as refference. Anyone done the engine and trans together without unbolting them? Its honestly seems easier
I struggled for hours trying to separate the flex plate and torque converter, then came back and read your comment so I dropped the engine just a little and wiggled it back and forth and I heard a loud twang and they separated. Thanks for the advice.
I'm having an issue with the torque converter being stuck on the flywheel. I believe that the Converter is sized on the flywheel because the vehicle has been siting outside for over 2 years.
I have a 1999 Honda Civic I think I spent a rod bearing it sounds horrible want to know if I can get a V6 engine to put in there and replace it if so what years of cars do I need to look for in the junkyard to find it
I have a 2008 civic with a blown motor. I’ve noticed eBay has many jdm motors with low mileage at a very competitive price. Is a jdm motor of the the same make and model a straight across swap?
@@alltsab got it all done. Your video helped tremendously! Thank you. I tore the engine mount trying to remove the bolt. Instead of the bolt coming out, it got stuck and twisted the rubber material and it tore. I bought a new one from O'Reilly. You showed 4 transmission bolts in your video, but there are two more bolts on the sides. It wasn't a big deal to find them though. I don't have a powerful impact so I didn't remove the axle. This did make it difficult to remove the starter, but not impossible. I removed the exhaust pipe which helped a little. I've replaced the starter before so it wasn't too terrible. I didn't realize you were using a special socket to remove the O2 sensor. I had to go buy one :). I'm glad I have one now. I didn't have an engine lift so I used my tractor to lift it out. Overall it went exactly the way you showed. And hey, your tip to be careful to not let the torque converter fall out - that was an awesome tip! I would not have known that so you saved me from a huge mess! Again, thank you very much for your video! I have you to thank for my success today. You are awesome!!!
can i ask you ?, i hear noise (ket ket) in flywheel when start and stop engine, when stop engine flywheel no spinning i hear it (ket ket). may be shaft head friction with hole center on flywheel, i guess. i so will need hear you advice. thanks
sr, AT civic 2008, i hear it while start and run. all smooth except noise zone flywheel. special @@alltsab -when stop engine flywheel no spinning i hear it (ket ket)-
Hi my car is a 2007 honda civic lx with a manual transmission. Can the engine and transmission be seperated and the engine removed from the top without the transmission??
@@alltsab I pulled out 6 bolts I will check again. There were no fly wheel bolts like on the automatic either, I assume that's normal? Thank you! Great video by the way!
I don’t think you have to disconnect any components such as starter alternator or ac other than the axels if you just disconnect the harnesses disconnect all lines and want to pull out engine and transmission you should be able to if your doing all at the same time, just be very careful when pulling out because you won’t have a lot of room
my car has an engine failure. I went to one of the repair shops, and i was told it was going to cost me around $4000 to get a used engine plus labor. I don't have that money. so i went on ebay and someone was selling an engine for $600. I'm thinking of purchasing the engine myself then pay someone for the labor because I have no confidence in doing an engine swap. What is your advice?
If that engine is good then buy it. I bought this engine from LKQ it's cost around 900$. If you done any engine swap before you can do it very simple and easy.
@@lameckmukala1689 I think an honest shop would charge about $1k to install the new engine. I think it's about an 8-10 hour job. But even still $1600 for a new used engine Installed might be worth it because these engines last forever if you find a 2010 or 2011 engine block.
@@nawidyusuf8254 I would buy a USDM engine on lkq and make sure it's a 2010 or 2011 just to be safe. I would assume the jdm blocks are made the same way
In my channel I have 2 video removed seized engine. One was honda pilot and the other was lexus sc430. This 2 video should give you ideas how to remove it.
I watched another video where he ran into the same problem briefly. It turned out to be a ground issue. There was a 10mm bolt that connects the wiring harness to the driver side of the block. I think it was the wiring harness for the coils and Altrernator but I'm not sure. Good luck!
What happened to that Honda Reliability? Looks like this is a very common problem with 06-11 Civics. Generation before this one had transmission problems. I'll be buying a Toyota.
Only affects certain vin numbers due to manufacturing issues in the cast process of the block, mainly affects the 06 models ....any car in their first gen of a new car model are gonna have issues no matter what brand
A video of a Cat dancing gets 70 million Views, this informative video that actually helps people solve problems get 23k. I lost all hope in humankind :(
Because society today doesn't care and I read an article once saying over 80% usa citizens don't even know how to replace a flat tire on the side of the road. That's scary LIKE THAT SHOULD BE THE BARE MINIMUM FOR SOMEONE TO KNOW IF THEY DRIVE.
I am planning on getting this car. But my mech does not like fixing this generation of civic. Says there's little to no space in the engine bay for basic fixes What's your taught? Is it really harder to fix than other cars?
Everything on this car is a pain to work on except maybe the spark plugs but that’s even debatable some stuff you can’t even get a quarter turn on the bolts you have to do like an eighth of a turn for some stuff in it.
@@Coinbro I have it parked I still start it to keep it running I was hoping it was the head gasket I am going to put it up on ramps and have a better look this spring ,too winter like here now I have seen posts on the Honda forum where they say they leak from a crack behind the starter I have friends that still had warranty and had their blocks replaced but their leaks were at the front .
@@twistedsledder yeah let me know mine is like a wierd leak I can see a build up on the exhaust right in the middle on back side but car runs sometimes I have to add coolant sometimes not last summer it almost overheated three times on a trip it sucks cuz I think maybe its the heater hose or core which is in the middle of firewall maybe a bad hose I will try to let you know first I thought was bad head gasket but its gone all year since it started so like 15000 more miles if gasket was bad I'm sure it would have broke down
Only takes hour to remove that front cowling in the radiator and then that's nothing's in the way you're fighting it out of there and it should just come right out the front right of itself AC condenser
K series should fit because the si is the same. But there is a lot work. For me I will not put K series in this I rather just buy the si model it will be better and cheaper way to do it.
The difference would be instead of just having a thin plate(I don't feel like even calling that a flexplate) you'd be dragging along the clutch assembly. Not too sure if it would clear - but hope to know if it does.
You saved yourself about 3 hours of work if you just pull that transmission out with the engines do it on the ground or on a pallet and then do make sure he gets 500 bolts off before you take it out of the car cuz it's on the pallets possible to get those burgers
Thank you brother! been reading on my wife's civic, it's a 2012 lx with a R18Z1 and it hydrolocked apparently and blew out the bottom. Not sure if I should swap for another R18 or just see what happened underneath it. This is the only video I could find on yt that comes close to her car and by far the best and informative for 8th gen. Hoping 9th generation will be similar. I have pulled honda engines a bit in my youth, but only 4th 5th and 6th generations. swaps, fabricating, making little race cars. I don't like working on her car to be honest, especially compared to my ek hatch. Thank you for taking the time out to make this video.
I will say civic are identical even though it newer version. The 2012 and the one I did it didn't change much. Thanks for for watching don't forget to help subscribe ok brother.
Engine is the same only transmission is different. But a lot work if you convert auto to manual or manual to auto. The main harness is different ecu also different. If you do it for fun then worthy but if you do it to drive then I prefer just go buy a car that already came like that from the factory.
@@alltsab I have the manual car version I just wanna buy an automatic engine then put the manual tranny with the auto engine does that make sense? The car has everything the pedals and harness it’s just the engine I’m changing please help let me know
@@alltsab With a manual transmission you don't have to drop the transmission before removing the engine? There is enough room in the engine bay to separate them and remove engine from the top?
I heard that you won't have enough room on a manual trans. I haven't seen any videos of it though. I'm pretty sure the shaft wouldn't clear so be ready to remove both engine/trans together
@@gregoryjames6051 Best to have little hands (: but if you want to pull the whole thing out then unbolt the header, ac and powersteering. Gotta remove the battery and battery tray. Unbolt shifter cables, pop axles and lower ball joints on control arms to give you room to pop axles. unbolt the 3 bolts that hold the bracket to the trans on the back side. Undo the rest of the mounts then lower the engine and pull off the side trans mount off the chasis and then out it comes. reverse to get engine back in.
@@edwinmedina4338 I have this saved so I don't have to keep typing to explain. Let's use the K series for example. It has performance i-VTEC engines that feature VTEC on both camshafts, economy i-VTEC engines that feature VTEC only on the intake side, and the other economy i-VTEC engines that feature integrated exhaust manifolds. With economy i-VTEC, it doesn't "kick in" like traditional VTEC, its for fuel economy lol. Basically the economy i-VTEC only "kicks in" when driving like a grandma with a steady throttle and not the lead foot like her grandchild lol. It is not like the iconic SI with performance cams that kick in around 5k RPM. And yes I know VTEC kicks in at different RPM then 5k on the SI, but is it performance or economy? VTEC is meant to have high performance at high RPM and low fueI consumption at low RPM period, i-VTEC just made that more intelligent and confusing with its three types of i-VTEC lol. R18 engine for example is a version of an economy oriented i-VTEC that is different (even different then VTEC-e, 3-stage i-VTEC). Under the right engine load and engine speed conditions the eco i-VTEC system switches to a cam that delays the intake cam closure by extending the duration so that the piston pushes out fuel-air mixture back through the intake causing the engine to operate in an Atkinson-Cycle mode. The loss in power from going into the Atkinson cycle is compensated for automatically by the ECU opening up the throttle more (without you having to adjust with your foot on the accelerator). So it improves fuel economy two-fold by (1) reducing pumping loss by opening of the throttle body plate to give less restriction to the intake path and (2) going into the Atkinson-Cycle which uses fuel more efficiently by having a longer combustion stroke than effective intake stroke giving more time for the fuel-air mixture to combust. This also decreases emissions but who cares about that lol. There is no VTEC characteristic torque bump either. VTEC is a tricksy hobbit. All kinds of conditions. Engine RPM, vehicle speed, engine load, throttle position, coolant temperature, oil pressure etc. Can't just think RPM with VTEC kids, so many variables in this equation. Okay Economy i-VTEC explained: Although similar in many ways, the economy i-VTEC version of Honda's variable valve timing is different enough to command its own nickname. Much like Honda's emissions-conscious VTEC-E of the mid-1990s, impressive power figures were not the primary concern when developing these engines. Most notably, their exhaust camshafts are stripped of VTEC and their intake camshafts feature only two lobes and two rocker arms per cylinder instead of three. Prior to VTEC engagement, economy i-VTEC engines make use of only a single intake valve per cylinder, even though they do indeed feature 16-valve cylinder heads. The remaining intake valve cracks open slightly-just enough to prevent unburned fuel from pooling up behind itself. Also known as valve idling, the process allows the engine to operate using a conservative amount of fuel at low engine speeds with improved power at higher engine speeds when both valves open and close normally. Even VTEC is tuned differently, with low emissions paramount. As a result, a unique swirl develops inside of the combustion chambers as well as an extremely lean air/fuel mixture, resulting in impressive combustion and fuel efficiency, but not a whole lot of power. At a predetermined engine speed, the secondary intake valve opens, at which time the valvetrain operates, as you'd expect. Unfortunately, overall lift and duration don't increase like with traditional VTEC engines. Unlike performance i-VTEC cylinder heads, economy i-VTEC top-ends also exhibit an awkward groove cut into the walls between each intake valve, which plays a role in their single-valve VTEC operation, but costs in terms of airflow and performance. To the disappointment of Honda fans everywhere, as of the 2012 model year, only economy i-VTEC engines are offered. Underneath, economy i-VTEC engines share some of the same characteristics as the performance-oriented K-series. The blocks are essentially the same, the crankshafts are similar but not as thoroughly counter-weighted, and their connecting rods share similar geometry albeit a generally thinner and weaker design. Their pistons are where most of the differences lie, though. To help with emissions, many economy i-VTEC pistons feature a rounded dish on top that, together with their curious intake valve operation, help further promote the swirling effect. Economy i-VTEC engines are also missing under-piston oil squirters (although provisions for them are still there), which help promote lower temperatures but aren't necessarily needed when upgrading to forged pistons. Underneath, a more conventional stamped-steel oil pan can be found on most economy i-VTEC engines, which is in stark contrast to performance i-VTEC engines' more rigid aluminum versions.
You think there is enough room to remove the trans axle too? How much did you charge to do this job also. You are lucky with the no rust everything just comes right off
hello I have CRV 2009 ex 4wd 209000 km. there is no check engine light. the engine make some noise and vibration at idle and hard accelration power . the cylindre compresion is correct I have change spark plugs. there is no leake and coil , injector are correct. After scan honda say ther is misfire in cylindre 4 at idle. after check they propose first a valve ajustment and if the problem stay there propose chain kit change. what you think . if i change chain kit does the engine will be correct or it is better change engine. thank you
If you change spark plug, ignition coil, and injector you still have miss fire will will say it could be crack cylinder head water leak to your cylinder. Not a lot but enough to creat miss fire. You can do a leak down test or just check on that spark plug to see little red in it. Please subscribe if you have not thanks for visit my channel.
The people that make these videos are truly heaven sent
Thanks for taking the time to make such a detailed video, with such great camera work. This might be the best mechanical repair video I've ever seen.
Thank you so much
I agree!
I am removing my motor using your video as guidance, but I have a manual transmission. I have the motor separated from the transmission, but it doesn't seem like there is room for the clutch assembly to clear the transmission housing. Do you know if I can get the motor out without pulling my manual transmission?
This is some serious confidence boosting content here. I BLEW my R18A1, I didn't send it but it's done, I'm going to wait til engines go on special at the junk yard and find a complete on, because of YOU my car will live to die another day, thank you sir, you are an gentleman and a scholar.
You welcome buddy thanks for swinging watching my video help me subscribe ok thank you 😊
Im doing the same thing
Engines go on special? lol
How did it go, Raymond?
Great video, I purchased my first Honda a year ago, 2007 Civic 1.8 L DX. Using your video I replaced the engine, " the old owner blew a coolant line and drove until it stopped dead". One thing is for sure, I will never buy another one. I am 6,3 and 260 lbs with large hands. These cars were not made to work on for men my size, LOL. However your video was a great tutorial.
@@techassembly9653 look at the si engine and compare it to the lx ex bays. shit gets ridiculous
Thanks! Helped me remove and install engine in 2009 honda civic. Only problem I had was I forgot to hook up the camshaft position sensor on the top back of motor behind the intake. Caused a CEL light and "D" flashing whenever vechicle started , which took a while due to the p0365 code from a faulty camshaft position sensor. The whole time it was the sensor not connected. Starts and runs fine no issues. Thanks!
Did you have to replace your ECU or was it just drop a new engine in and go?
Just dropped new engine in and go.
I'm a licensed mechanic and this was a great watch, no babbling on about irrelevant info, straightforward and well thought out, great job.
Thanks buddy
hello Mr. mechanic, do you know if this will come out without removing a manual 5 speed tranny?
@@hoobered1232 it should be easier because the input shaft won't be stuck in the pilot bushing in the end of the crankshaft.
Thank you for posting this extremely helpful video! I swapped a blown engine for a replacement JDM in my daughter's 2009 civic last weekend and your video/instructions came in very handy. Appreciate you sharing your knowledge! :)
Thanks
What engine did you replace it with? Just curious lol
@@Andres-sg9yc same as the OEM
botdude where did you get your engine from being JDM
Was it a straight across swap? I’m getting ready to do exact same thing
I appreciate the time and effort you put into making this video, very helpful
You very welcome
Thanks for creating this video. It was very simply and clear. Although I know it will take me a couple days to completely replace my engine as I am just a backyard mechanic.
Why dont you just become a front yard mechanic
@@lazertag720 fr
helped me a lot, i’m doin the same job on my 8th gen civic… very detailed for the job if you’re a learning d.i.y’er
I bought a 2006 Honda Civic LX last year with no idea that it had a cracked block recall. I pray for her and check her for leaks every other drive.
How is she
I had a problem with the torque converter stuck in the crankshaft. This made removing the engine a struggle because of the extra clearance required. Even with the engine out and on the ground the torque converter took a lot of effort to pry loose. Not sure what to do in situations like this. Fortunately I was able to get the TC back into the transmission correctly and then installing the new engine following your video was easy.
Yeah that year of civic was bad design the tc ripple in the back is tight when disengage tc from flex plate take a lot effort. Gladly you manage it out. In my video I did warning everyone about it. You did a great job buddy.
thanks for the video...My friends motor tossed a rod...pieces all over the front of the engine...Unfortunately I am in Canada, so nothing is coming apart easily...lots of broken bolts...nuts rusted to a different shape...this video will help me a lot and save me a great deal of time
Thank you so don't forget to help me subscribe okay
appreciate your hard work. not a mechanic but its very interesting as well as educative
Thanks
If you have access to a vehicle lift and jack that has a big flat table then it is much easier to remove the engine and transmissions out of the vehicle and work on it from there you just have to drop the sub frame which is difficult at all. Doing it from the bottom you can leave everything on the engine except the A/C compressor obviously unless you can extract the R134 properly. Otherwise though this is an extremely informative video. P.S. if you are only replacing the block then please do not forget the black rubber coolant diverter that goes in from of cylinder number 1 in a square corner inside the coolant passage. Otherwise the engine will take forever to get to operating temperature.
Thanks buddy
I'm already contemplating if this is worth it. How much was engine you bought? Plus I believe my heater core is junk. Still cheaper than buying a car, but a lot of money.
Recall for defective block on the r18a1 they tend to crack at about 60k mile mark
If that is the engine in the 2008 Civic, I have experienced the crack in the block. Front face of the engine, vertical crack. Car was 8 years old, 191,000 miles when the crack developed. Looked up info online, saw where the recall had been extended. Took the car to Honda, they verified the crack. Lent me a new Accord, three days later I got the car back with a new long block installed. Not rebuilt but a new engine from Honda. Still have that car, my daily commuter now with 330,000 miles. I have bought two new Hondas since then. Only cars I buy, Honda and Toyota.
My 06 civic lx is original with 240k and finally leak coolant due to crack block in rear. Puddle of coolant once I refilled it lol.
Debating to swap motoor or junk it. But every thing still runs gooooood. So I might just do it
I will probably never remove the engine but I own this same vehicle and this was so cool to watch. Could you now use the engine on display to point out the different parts/areas that go bad, like where will these engines most likely leak from. Thanks a bunch and God bless.
Thanks for watching 👀 I returned the engine they charge for core.
Awesome video! Thanks so much for the information :)
2 questions for you at 6:52 you have a long wrench with low profile rachet ends on it. I have never seen one of those before. Do you have a link or name of the tool?
Also at 11:30 you use a 90 degree angled adapter. I could find them for drills, but does yours use 1/4 or 3/8 inputs?
1. Harbor freight about 30$ 2. Is 1/4
@Bryan’s Locks meh, HF has some good cheap stuff, just gotta know what to get and what not to get. Like their Jack stands lol don't do it. A lot of crap I will admit but a lot of decent stuff. They have the Daytona jacks and is exactly the same jack as one of snap ons, exactly lol, from same place they make them. A lot of their 6 point sockets are great, especially for the price.
@Bryan’s Locks yeah, craftsman was a good tool.
Thanks for taking the time to make such a helpful video. I’m going to be doing this on a 2006 with a 5 speed manual.
Do you know if there is room to move the engine to the passenger side enough to get the clutch assembly off the transmission input shaft and be able to then lift the engine straight up like you did in this video? Thanks!
I'm not sure
this is awesome and straight forward. Question did you need to drain out all the coolant and drain the transmission oil and oil out of the car prior?
Yes
@@alltsab Thanks and can i put the same oil/transmission oil and coolant back in if everything was recently changed
@anonymous yes but for this hard work I think all new is better
@@alltsab hanks sir much appreciated I liked and subscribed
@@Random.Adventures. thanks 😊
Very Cool! Nice job! And i always think that you can remove from the bottom.
Thanks
What did you do to get the torque converter to separate from the drive plate? I've unbolted mine, but they won't come apart.
Slowly pry as i explained in the video
My brother bought a 06 Civic a couple of months ago an the engine is knocking...we just going to find another motor an use it as a spare for both of us...
I have to do a clutch on my 07. Would it be easier just pull the engine? I don't have a lift, and I would rather not do the whole job underneath the car.
Yes, much easier pulling the engine
Excelente trabajo !
Gracias
Having issues with torque converter and flex plate separating I’ve taken the 8 bolts out and it’s the only thing having me up.
In this video I showing and explain little bit about that
If the flex plate and transmission bolts are out then the torque converter nipple is catching on the flywheel hole( same thing happened to me) . Make sure the engine and trans completely aligned, you maybhave to lower the engine a little. Use the 17mm bolt holes on the engine and trans as refference.
Anyone done the engine and trans together without unbolting them? Its honestly seems easier
I struggled for hours trying to separate the flex plate and torque converter, then came back and read your comment so I dropped the engine just a little and wiggled it back and forth and I heard a loud twang and they separated. Thanks for the advice.
I'm having an issue with the torque converter being stuck on the flywheel. I believe that the Converter is sized on the flywheel because the vehicle has been siting outside for over 2 years.
Quick question. What socket you used to pulled the O2 sensor out?
O2 sensor socket
@@alltsab thanks
So how much harder would it be to just pull transmission with engine? Can you change transmission without removing the engine?
Yes you can do either way.
What the difference between the R18, R18A and R18A1? My current engine is an R18A1 and I would like to swap but most of engine shows R18A.
Best mechanic video
Thanks
Great video. Did we get so good at making this video due to the 2006-2009 block cracking issue which TSB 10-048 speaks about?
😊 thanks 😊
@@alltsab So the 2010 and 2011 blocks are exempt to the crack situation in TSB 10-048?
@@dennisrobinson8008 think so I have seen any problems in that year yet.
Yes verify it’s 06-09 only and it’s not all block. So not all cars are affected. Mines 240k miles
Good video. I'm getting ready to do the same job.
Thanks
I have questions . Can you tell me engine replacement work or not
My crankshaft doesn't want to turn . So I can't get to the flywheel bolts . Can I remove the engine with the flywheel on ?
I think so
Thank you 🙏
Excellently done
I have a 1999 Honda Civic I think I spent a rod bearing it sounds horrible want to know if I can get a V6 engine to put in there and replace it if so what years of cars do I need to look for in the junkyard to find it
V6 in a civic? It's nightmare job lol
Thanks for the video ! Definitely a sub now. Did you have to remove the crankshaft pulley bolt to remove the engine or is there space to leave it on ?
No need to remove crank pulley bolt.
Great video. It helped me a lot. Thanks
You welcome
I have a 2008 civic with a blown motor. I’ve noticed eBay has many jdm motors with low mileage at a very competitive price. Is a jdm motor of the the same make and model a straight across swap?
The block and head may the same but some other parts you may have to swap the oem to it.
Just one question why did u removed the starter?
Thank you sir. Very helpful.
You welcome
After I replaced the engine. The car steering feels loose. What could be the problem?
Check your steering shaft bolts and any bolts that you take out may be you might forget to install everything.
I'm about to do this in 30 minutes. Will check back in soon and let you know how it went...
Good luck buddy
@@alltsab got it all done. Your video helped tremendously! Thank you. I tore the engine mount trying to remove the bolt. Instead of the bolt coming out, it got stuck and twisted the rubber material and it tore. I bought a new one from O'Reilly. You showed 4 transmission bolts in your video, but there are two more bolts on the sides. It wasn't a big deal to find them though. I don't have a powerful impact so I didn't remove the axle. This did make it difficult to remove the starter, but not impossible. I removed the exhaust pipe which helped a little. I've replaced the starter before so it wasn't too terrible. I didn't realize you were using a special socket to remove the O2 sensor. I had to go buy one :). I'm glad I have one now. I didn't have an engine lift so I used my tractor to lift it out. Overall it went exactly the way you showed. And hey, your tip to be careful to not let the torque converter fall out - that was an awesome tip! I would not have known that so you saved me from a huge mess! Again, thank you very much for your video! I have you to thank for my success today. You are awesome!!!
@@elihappinesspie great job buddy
Are you able to split the engine from transmission if it’s a manual or would u rather take them both out together or it doesn’t matter
Yes
can i ask you ?, i hear noise (ket ket) in flywheel when start and stop engine, when stop engine flywheel no spinning i hear it (ket ket). may be shaft head friction with hole center on flywheel, i guess. i so will need hear you advice. thanks
Civic, manual transmission? Start and run or just crank only?
sr, AT civic 2008, i hear it while start and run. all smooth except noise zone flywheel. special @@alltsab -when stop engine flywheel no spinning i hear it (ket ket)-
How can I locate knock sensor without removing gasket. They said by engine block
Should be near your starter... Have you subscribe to my channel yet
Thanks bro
question? think a 2005 honda civic 1.7l can be removed without pulling the transmission?
Yes
Hi my car is a 2007 honda civic lx with a manual transmission. Can the engine and transmission be seperated and the engine removed from the top without the transmission??
Yes
does this also with with manual transmission? as in same process to pull the notor out?
Yes
I have the manual transmission. I removed six (6) bolts from transmission to engine and they are not coming apart. Any help or suggestions?
Make sure all bolt out it could be a bolt still holding it in the back of tranny or up where back motor mount blacket
@@alltsab I pulled out 6 bolts I will check again. There were no fly wheel bolts like on the automatic either, I assume that's normal? Thank you! Great video by the way!
Did you have to reset the pcm and throttle body or any type of reset after you put the new engine in?
Nope not need to reset any thing
@@alltsab even if you put a different throttle body on it?
@@hr92011hr Throttle body relearn is on Chevys and german cars not honda
i am having trouble removing the air filter box because of the top left side. it isn’t a bolt but i want to know how you got it out
Either pop it or push the holder out.
Is it a lot of work if I swap mine to si engine and swap the transmission to manual.
yes
You can just convert the automatic tranny to a manual. That's what I did with my ek hatch.
Hey brother how much would you charge me if I have the new engine to just swap. I now we need to do new front and rear seal ?
Too hot not do it no more
Do you have remove the alternator?
Everything as you see in this video
When removing the motor, do you have to take out the axle? Replacing just the motor
No you don't have to take the axle unless you will take both engine and transmission out at the same time.
Alright thanks, when removing the motor, do you take out the starter first, or can you take it off when the motor is out?
I don’t think you have to disconnect any components such as starter alternator or ac other than the axels if you just disconnect the harnesses disconnect all lines and want to pull out engine and transmission you should be able to if your doing all at the same time, just be very careful when pulling out because you won’t have a lot of room
Just unbolt the ac and move out of the way
my car has an engine failure. I went to one of the repair shops, and i was told it was going to cost me around $4000 to get a used engine plus labor. I don't have that money. so i went on ebay and someone was selling an engine for $600. I'm thinking of purchasing the engine myself then pay someone for the labor because I have no confidence in doing an engine swap. What is your advice?
If that engine is good then buy it. I bought this engine from LKQ it's cost around 900$. If you done any engine swap before you can do it very simple and easy.
@@alltsab i have never done an engine swap. if i bought an engine, how much would i be charge for labor, just an estimation?
@@lameckmukala1689 I think an honest shop would charge about $1k to install the new engine. I think it's about an 8-10 hour job. But even still $1600 for a new used engine Installed might be worth it because these engines last forever if you find a 2010 or 2011 engine block.
@@georgeparker555 Do the JDM engines have issues with cracked blocks? Those seem to be what everyone is using for swaps.
@@nawidyusuf8254 I would buy a USDM engine on lkq and make sure it's a 2010 or 2011 just to be safe. I would assume the jdm blocks are made the same way
Where you located bro
Do you have any tips? for me I got to the part you're at but my engine and transmission seems like there siezed together
In my channel I have 2 video removed seized engine. One was honda pilot and the other was lexus sc430. This 2 video should give you ideas how to remove it.
Where do you have your shop?
I’m at the flywheel part of the video, how did you get it to turn to take the rest of the bolts out?
Was you turning the crankshaft?
@@wandercabrera9334 yes
Thanks man great help, last question, how did you split the trans and motor while still in the engine bay? I’m trying
@@wandercabrera9334 loose all bolt split with a screw driver
Anybody try removing the engine with the subframe? Through the bottom?
Yes. I did that the first round, it was relatively easy but if you have a picker this way definitely seems way easier
Miguel Rodriguez i did my first swap in a 06 i bought with a cracked block, super easy with a cherry picker👍
@@JESUSD6765 thank you for the input. Never done this car with a picker so tomorrow will be the first time. Wish me luck
Incredible 😌😌
Hey have you come across doing this and then the fuel pump not engaging? With all grounds and sensors plugged up?
Not come across to that situation yet.
I watched another video where he ran into the same problem briefly. It turned out to be a ground issue. There was a 10mm bolt that connects the wiring harness to the driver side of the block. I think it was the wiring harness for the coils and Altrernator but I'm not sure. Good luck!
@@gregoryjames6051 ended up that was the issue lol thanks a ton for the suggestion saved me a ton of time.
How can I do knock sensor. I have 2009 honda civic same as this. Trying to do it without taken off intake manifold
@@gregoryjames6051 Those pesky 10 millimeters lol
What happened to that Honda Reliability? Looks like this is a very common problem with 06-11 Civics. Generation before this one had transmission problems. I'll be buying a Toyota.
toyotas have there share of unreliability too.
Only affects certain vin numbers due to manufacturing issues in the cast process of the block, mainly affects the 06 models ....any car in their first gen of a new car model are gonna have issues no matter what brand
There is no such thing as a perfect engine
A video of a Cat dancing gets 70 million Views, this informative video that actually helps people solve problems get 23k. I lost all hope in humankind :(
Thank you i love your comment.
Because society today doesn't care and I read an article once saying over 80% usa citizens don't even know how to replace a flat tire on the side of the road. That's scary LIKE THAT SHOULD BE THE BARE MINIMUM FOR SOMEONE TO KNOW IF THEY DRIVE.
I am planning on getting this car. But my mech does not like fixing this generation of civic. Says there's little to no space in the engine bay for basic fixes
What's your taught? Is it really harder to fix than other cars?
Everything on this car is a pain to work on except maybe the spark plugs but that’s even debatable some stuff you can’t even get a quarter turn on the bolts you have to do like an eighth of a turn for some stuff in it.
Yes his right they are a pain in the butt.
Even with my tiny hands I rather not work on a Honda passed 6th gen.
Where was that engine leaking mine has a leak at back of engine not the front where 90 percent seem to crack .
He wouldn’t understand your comment
The engine cracks from the front and rear with the "front" being close to the radiator and the "back" being closer to the firewall.
Did you ever figure it out mine is leaking on the back I cant see where but it's hitting the exhaust pipe where ever its falling from
@@Coinbro I have it parked I still start it to keep it running I was hoping it was the head gasket I am going to put it up on ramps and have a better look this spring ,too winter like here now I have seen posts on the Honda forum where they say they leak from a crack behind the starter I have friends that still had warranty and had their blocks replaced but their leaks were at the front .
@@twistedsledder yeah let me know mine is like a wierd leak I can see a build up on the exhaust right in the middle on back side but car runs sometimes I have to add coolant sometimes not last summer it almost overheated three times on a trip it sucks cuz I think maybe its the heater hose or core which is in the middle of firewall maybe a bad hose I will try to let you know first I thought was bad head gasket but its gone all year since it started so like 15000 more miles if gasket was bad I'm sure it would have broke down
Only takes hour to remove that front cowling in the radiator and then that's nothing's in the way you're fighting it out of there and it should just come right out the front right of itself AC condenser
Hi sir did you know if a acura rsx fits in that car?
K series should fit because the si is the same. But there is a lot work. For me I will not put K series in this I rather just buy the si model it will be better and cheaper way to do it.
Can you take out engine and trans together while they are still bolted to each other
Yes
@@alltsab through top or bottom
@@esmecolin either but top is easier
@@alltsab thank you
Can I also remove the engine using this procedure if I have a manual transmission?
Yes!
The difference would be instead of just having a thin plate(I don't feel like even calling that a flexplate) you'd be dragging along the clutch assembly. Not too sure if it would clear - but hope to know if it does.
what size is the bolts connected to engine to attach chain?
I don't remember
You saved yourself about 3 hours of work if you just pull that transmission out with the engines do it on the ground or on a pallet and then do make sure he gets 500 bolts off before you take it out of the car cuz it's on the pallets possible to get those burgers
how much torque is that impact wrench
I don't remember but I think about 700 plus ft lbs
Are you in LA ?
Thank you brother! been reading on my wife's civic, it's a 2012 lx with a R18Z1 and it hydrolocked apparently and blew out the bottom. Not sure if I should swap for another R18 or just see what happened underneath it. This is the only video I could find on yt that comes close to her car and by far the best and informative for 8th gen. Hoping 9th generation will be similar. I have pulled honda engines a bit in my youth, but only 4th 5th and 6th generations. swaps, fabricating, making little race cars. I don't like working on her car to be honest, especially compared to my ek hatch. Thank you for taking the time out to make this video.
I will say civic are identical even though it newer version. The 2012 and the one I did it didn't change much. Thanks for for watching don't forget to help subscribe ok brother.
@@alltsab New subscriber for sure!
@@H74ver thank you so much
Did you leave the tranny CV axle in the whole time??
nice job!
Does anyone know if my 2008 (Civic EX, 1.8 L) engine will fit in a 2007 civic si ( 2.0 )?
No it's totally different engine and transmission it will not fit. Unless you modify to fit.
With the automatic engine can you convert it into a manual? R18
Yes
Engine is the same only transmission is different. But a lot work if you convert auto to manual or manual to auto. The main harness is different ecu also different. If you do it for fun then worthy but if you do it to drive then I prefer just go buy a car that already came like that from the factory.
@@alltsab I have the manual car version I just wanna buy an automatic engine then put the manual tranny with the auto engine does that make sense? The car has everything the pedals and harness it’s just the engine I’m changing please help let me know
@@Omarvro1 that is perfect No problem. The engine can go to either auto or manual no problem. Good luck buddy
Make sure you take out your flywheel to to put in the new engine prefer buy new set of clutch and make sure resurface your flywheel too ok
About to do this swap this weekend. Everyone’s telling me I have to drop the motor to get it out but I don’t have a lift just stands. Pray for me XD
You can do either up or down but I prefer up its more easy. Good luck to u.
Yeah, Fwd vehicles they say to drop them but I have I only done that once and tbh I prefer to pull them.
Where did you buy the engine
Buy it from LKQ
How about for the 2006 hybrid?
Different
have 06 civic same spot 13:30 trans leaking what could be? Thank you information
Honda civic have a bad block these year
Can you do this the same way with a standard transmission?
Yes
@@alltsab With a manual transmission you don't have to drop the transmission before removing the engine? There is enough room in the engine bay to separate them and remove engine from the top?
I heard that you won't have enough room on a manual trans. I haven't seen any videos of it though. I'm pretty sure the shaft wouldn't clear so be ready to remove both engine/trans together
@@gregoryjames6051 Best to have little hands (: but if you want to pull the whole thing out then unbolt the header, ac and powersteering. Gotta remove the battery and battery tray. Unbolt shifter cables, pop axles and lower ball joints on control arms to give you room to pop axles. unbolt the 3 bolts that hold the bracket to the trans on the back side. Undo the rest of the mounts then lower the engine and pull off the side trans mount off the chasis and then out it comes. reverse to get engine back in.
criteria like putting the R18 engine on the honda civic 2001 to 2006

What impact drill?
Dewalt
How can I contact you for service?
Amazing need more details from other videos like you decribe
So a 2015 will fit an2008?
No it different won't direct fit like 06 to 2011 one. Maybe modify to fit on that year
You know what modification?
I found out the coil pack are different so far
To much work i ll call to the yomk yard i buy the engine. But hard to do this job
Is it vtec?
All civic 06 and newer are vtec
@@alltsab the R18 is Vtec?
@@edwinmedina4338 yes
@@edwinmedina4338 yep just not the well known vtec like in the si. r18 vtec sohc
@@edwinmedina4338 I have this saved so I don't have to keep typing to explain. Let's use the K series for example. It has performance i-VTEC engines that feature VTEC on both camshafts, economy i-VTEC engines that feature VTEC only on the intake side, and the other economy i-VTEC engines that feature integrated exhaust manifolds. With economy i-VTEC, it doesn't "kick in" like traditional VTEC, its for fuel economy lol. Basically the economy i-VTEC only "kicks in" when driving like a grandma with a steady throttle and not the lead foot like her grandchild lol. It is not like the iconic SI with performance cams that kick in around 5k RPM. And yes I know VTEC kicks in at different RPM then 5k on the SI, but is it performance or economy? VTEC is meant to have high performance at high RPM and low fueI consumption at low RPM period, i-VTEC just made that more intelligent and confusing with its three types of i-VTEC lol. R18 engine for example is a version of an economy oriented i-VTEC that is different (even different then VTEC-e, 3-stage i-VTEC). Under the right engine load and engine speed conditions the eco i-VTEC system switches to a cam that delays the intake cam closure by extending the duration so that the piston pushes out fuel-air mixture back through the intake causing the engine to operate in an Atkinson-Cycle mode. The loss in power from going into the Atkinson cycle is compensated for automatically by the ECU opening up the throttle more (without you having to adjust with your foot on the accelerator). So it improves fuel economy two-fold by (1) reducing pumping loss by opening of the throttle body plate to give less restriction to the intake path and (2) going into the Atkinson-Cycle which uses fuel more efficiently by having a longer combustion stroke than effective intake stroke giving more time for the fuel-air mixture to combust. This also decreases emissions but who cares about that lol. There is no VTEC characteristic torque bump either. VTEC is a tricksy hobbit. All kinds of conditions. Engine RPM, vehicle speed, engine load, throttle position, coolant temperature, oil pressure etc. Can't just think RPM with VTEC kids, so many variables in this equation. Okay Economy i-VTEC explained: Although similar in many ways, the economy i-VTEC version of Honda's variable valve timing is different enough to command its own nickname. Much like Honda's emissions-conscious VTEC-E of the mid-1990s, impressive power figures were not the primary concern when developing these engines. Most notably, their exhaust camshafts are stripped of VTEC and their intake camshafts feature only two lobes and two rocker arms per cylinder instead of three. Prior to VTEC engagement, economy i-VTEC engines make use of only a single intake valve per cylinder, even though they do indeed feature 16-valve cylinder heads. The remaining intake valve cracks open slightly-just enough to prevent unburned fuel from pooling up behind itself. Also known as valve idling, the process allows the engine to operate using a conservative amount of fuel at low engine speeds with improved power at higher engine speeds when both valves open and close normally. Even VTEC is tuned differently, with low emissions paramount. As a result, a unique swirl develops inside of the combustion chambers as well as an extremely lean air/fuel mixture, resulting in impressive combustion and fuel efficiency, but not a whole lot of power. At a predetermined engine speed, the secondary intake valve opens, at which time the valvetrain operates, as you'd expect. Unfortunately, overall lift and duration don't increase like with traditional VTEC engines. Unlike performance i-VTEC cylinder heads, economy i-VTEC top-ends also exhibit an awkward groove cut into the walls between each intake valve, which plays a role in their single-valve VTEC operation, but costs in terms of airflow and performance. To the disappointment of Honda fans everywhere, as of the 2012 model year, only economy i-VTEC engines are offered. Underneath, economy i-VTEC engines share some of the same characteristics as the performance-oriented K-series. The blocks are essentially the same, the crankshafts are similar but not as thoroughly counter-weighted, and their connecting rods share similar geometry albeit a generally thinner and weaker design. Their pistons are where most of the differences lie, though. To help with emissions, many economy i-VTEC pistons feature a rounded dish on top that, together with their curious intake valve operation, help further promote the swirling effect. Economy i-VTEC engines are also missing under-piston oil squirters (although provisions for them are still there), which help promote lower temperatures but aren't necessarily needed when upgrading to forged pistons. Underneath, a more conventional stamped-steel oil pan can be found on most economy i-VTEC engines, which is in stark contrast to performance i-VTEC engines' more rigid aluminum versions.
KLEANNN! 🚀🚀🚀👍🏽
Dude whts your location🤣
Wish my car wasn't so rusty under the hood, your bolts look lbrand new
Cali car is healthy of rusty
You think there is enough room to remove the trans axle too? How much did you charge to do this job also. You are lucky with the no rust everything just comes right off
@@streetbikebilly2597 yes you can remove both at the same time is very easy too
@@alltsab would you recommend removing both to do a clutch job as well figured I would do that while I'm in there
Yes if you have money for the clutch
Is that a T-100 pulling a fishing boat 😍
Yes
hello I have CRV 2009 ex 4wd 209000 km. there is no check engine light. the engine make some noise and vibration at idle and hard accelration power . the cylindre compresion is correct I have change spark plugs. there is no leake and coil , injector are correct. After scan honda say ther is misfire in cylindre 4 at idle. after check they propose first a valve ajustment and if the problem stay there propose chain kit change. what you think . if i change chain kit does the engine will be correct or it is better change engine. thank you
If you change spark plug, ignition coil, and injector you still have miss fire will will say it could be crack cylinder head water leak to your cylinder. Not a lot but enough to creat miss fire. You can do a leak down test or just check on that spark plug to see little red in it. Please subscribe if you have not thanks for visit my channel.