I've been doing home electrical projects for 20 years, and I still learned three or four things because you film while you are actually doing the work. You have an excellent way of explaining things correctly, excellent warnings and tips along the way. I wish I could give you a thousand likes my man.
Its great that you describe troubles one may run into in their application. Most videos seem to only show uncomplicated situations that a lot of us don't have.
This is exactly what I needed. Our house, the master bed room as no over head light and we are wanting a ceiling fan and light. This is perfect. Thank you!!
You are the best! Thank you so much! I'm a single woman trying to handle things around the house, and your education video is a big support! Blessings to you!
The outlet is a good source for power when installing a ceiling fan with a light kit. The reason for the 1/2 hot outlet is because housing developers were not installing ceiling lights and to get around the codes they would install the 1/2 hot outlet in bedrooms and living areas. In order to provide proper power to the switch box a little reconfiguring of the conductors at the outlet will be necessary.. This can be easily done by removing the neutral wire (white) from the line hot (black) and reconnect the white conductor to the rest of the neutrals. It's a good idea to replace the receptacle at this time with a new one due to the bi-metal being cut separating the two halves. Using a short jumper wire will achieve the same results. The next step is to run a single 14/3 up the wall to the fan junction box without having to search to a separate power source. This also eliminates the need to use a common trip breaker for each separate circuit, incase one circuit tripped leaving the second circuit hot. I would also make it clear that all ceiling fans require UL approved support braces and junction boxes for supporting The days of throwing up a 2x4 stud and screwing in a round metal box with 6/32 bent tabs for mounting the fan support are gone.
Hi, Yes I thought of re configuring the wire inside the outlet box, but I actually wanted to keep that outlet switchable. They didn't cut the metal piece separating the two halves, so the whole outlet was switchable.. I also didn't want to make the video to complicated, so I chose to seek out a different power source. Thanks for the comment... :-)
Liked, subscribed. Just did this on my home. I had no attic access at ALL! Later, after hearing some squirrels, I installed an attic ladder. So much nicer having access. Recesses lights in the hall were easy as pie.
Awesome! Thanks for the like and sub... :-). I'm surprised if you had an attic, no one put access to it.... Those attic ladders are nice... I wish I had that, but the way my entry is configured it would hit on a wall... :-(
Thumbs up. Very concise and to the point on everything. My room is by similar to your video including attic access and no ceiling box. I have a light switch that doesn't control anything so once I get the balls to do this I'm hoping I can simply wire up that switch and have power. 😁
Nice video. Regarding your comment at 7:50 about stapling the wire in the wall - You're good to go. According to code, old work installation does not require stapling the wire. The clamp in the J-box provides strain relief. Just don't break off the plastic tab where the wire comes into the box like I've seen on some other videos.
Perfect. I have the wiring and hole already, but I'm replacing an old fluorescent box light with a fan, so I needed the info on how to get a mount in there without attic access. Thanks so much!
As a commercial electrician this was a very good video and I don’t remember any part of it making me grit my teeth if you told me your background was electric I’d believe it, before anyone pulls the if your a electrician why are you watching this, I do commercial new construction and wasn’t entirely sure the best way to fish wire with minimal drywall damage, only reason I’m trying to prove myself is just for anyone considering doing this to have confidence in this video that everything was done proper and as a professional would do
Great video. The pig tails are the easiest way to make sure you can adjust the switches. I gotta do a job like you described notching the ceiling. Talk about doubling the time and mess.
Excellent video! I had never seen one of those fan installation bars before. I just ordered a two pack of them on amazon. Product name: "Westinghouse Lighting 0101000 Saf-T-Brace for Ceiling Fans, 4 Teeth with Locking Screw"
Great video brother you do a great job giving tips along the way about safety as well. I see a lot of professional youtubers never mention some of the safety concerns you do.
great video! I have the same set upin the bedroom with a switch going to the outlet. I`ve got confused on the wiring. wish it was a little more detailed which wire goes where and if you added a jumper from the main switch to the new one.
I believe I pulled the power from a source in the attic. I didn't cover the details so much on where I got the power because every situation is going to be different..
If there is a stud to the left of your switch, just use a two gang box on the other side and have separate switch panel. A small hole in stud for wiring travel is fine.
Thank you for the video. Retrofitting a light fixture box for a ceiling fan box will be one of my first diy projects involving electricity. You mention at the end of the video, “...and don’t forget the ground screw”, do I just screw it into a spare hole in the box??
Usually there's a threaded hole with a concave area to accommodate the ground wire. It should be pretty obvious which one they want to you use... I hope that helps.. thanks for the comment.. :-)
Very nice video. Thanks for showing each step, that was very helpful. The 2 things I would have like to see more in-depth was how the black and red wire for the fan connected to the light switch and how the 2 pig tails connected to both light switches. Also I would had like to see how the 3-wire wiring connected to the fan wires since you used 3-wire wiring. But other then that I feel that I can now do my son's room. Thanks again!
The black wire usually goes to the fan motor, and the red wire usually goes to the light. On the fan the black goes to the black and the red will go to the blue light wire. The pig tails are just so I can take the single hot wire coming from the source and split them to go to 2 switches. You don't have to do it that way, its just the method I used. I've seen guys take a single hot wire that's pretty long and connect one switch several inches from the end, after they peel it back of course, and then run the rest of the wire over to the other switch so they're daisy chained together like Christmas lights. Does that help?
@@TheHomeImprovementChannelsince you used a 3 switch setup, why did you keep 3 switches when you just need two for light and fan. Installing can lighting later or keeping the plug switch? Maybe I missed something. Thank you for the great video.
The power source is going to vary from house to house. There probably aren't 2 that'll be the same. I wound up tapping into an existing junction box in the attic that supplied constant power. If you have an attic light that's an ideal place to tap if it's not to far away from your installation site. If you have a block in the wall, they sell a drill bit that's 4' long. It's flexible and you can use that to drill through a block. It's a good idea to try to look through your initial hole in the attic to be sure you don't hit any wiring or something like that. You can look up from where the switch box is going to be with a mirror and a flashlight to see the block from the bottom to make sure that's clear as well. It's best to not drill blind or you might hit something you don't want to! Hope that helps.
@@TheHomeImprovementChannel thanks. I had no junction boxes and the attic didn't go as far as the service panel...smh. I didn't want to DIY a junction off existing wiring in the attic.. so I just used a heavy duty extention cord and dropped through the ceiling close to the wall and plugged it into the wall reciprocal that is worked by the light switch. The cord is barely noticeable behind the TV.
Great video and very informative, the one question I have is where did the black wire come from to make the pig tails? Did you have to buy that separately?
Yes, so I had to take power from a source in the attic. Sometimes you can use the existing switch, but in my case there was no constant power there. Yes, I had to supply the 12 gauge wires to run from the power source to the switch, and from the switch back to the new fan.
Great video, very helpful. Thank you for taking the time to do this. I am confident that we can do this ourselves. For ceiling fans what size Romex is best? 12/3 or 14/2. Does it make a difference? Why? Also, I don’t want the toggle switch to operate the wall outlet any longer, how do you make that happen?
Yes it matters! It depends on the circuit that you tap into. If the existing circuit is on a 20 amp breaker or a 15 amp. You should use 12 gauge for 20 amp and 14 gauge for 15 amp. Great question.. 🙂. The existing house wiring should already be the right size
Thanks for the feedback!. I don't remember, but I may have left that out intentionally since the wiring of this house will be different than other houses. (If I understood your comment correctly)
after getting an $800 quote to install three ceiling fans, I looked up a how to video and found yours. I'm seriously nervous about attempting this myself, but you make me think maybe I can. Any suggestions for a first timer? I have installed lighting before but only replacements, never putting a light where no light was before so...
If you're not comfortable around electric I don't recommend it. You might think about getting one of those pen style contactless voltage sensors. This way you can more easily identify hot wires. Are you working with an attic? That'll help to minimize drywall damage. Finding a power source is going to be different if every case. If you have an attic you should have more options. If there are any electrical boxes up there that would be a good place to start as a source. Is there an attic light? The attic light would be the easiest source to tap into.. One other option.. if you say that a plug is switched and the wire is running back to the switch. Usually that'll mean that there's a direct power source in that box where the plug is. Can you run the power wire directly to the plug so that it's no longer switched, and then rewire the wire that went to the switch to provide constant power? Obviously disconnect the power before doing this, and get rid of the switch since it'll short those wires out, then you'll have a power source at the switch location. The plug doesn't need to be on a switch anymore if you have an overhead light in the fan..
pardon my ignorance....Why did you install 2 additional switches? 1 for fan operation and 1 for lights on the fan? Could I also install just 1 additional switch (not 2) and just use the pull string for selecting operating modes of fan/light ? Thanks!
Not an ignorant question... :-). One switch was for the existing plug that already had a switch when I pulled the 1 gang box out of the wall and replaced it with a 3 gang. I used two switches for the fan, which aren't really necessary since most fans these days use a remote control, I could have gotten by with 1 switch since there's a remote to separate fan light from fan itself. I hope that answers the question.
Yes... You can add a fan from any power source as long as you can feed the wire from point A to B. You can also add a remote control from Amazon or Lowes, etc to be able to control it so you're not stuck using the pull chains on the fan.
You could, or you could put a remote in the fan and still use one switch. But a lot of the time, when they wire up a new house, they do it like this with two switches for the fan with a 14/3 wire. But your right, you don't have to do it that way.
I saw you connected the two (new) neutral lines together but the original neutral line was left out... where did that get hooked up to? Or did you wind up including it to the rest of the neutral connections?
That other neutral goes to a plug and it's not neutral at all. They split the hot wire at the plug with the black and white wires and those two wires just go to a switch. Black on one screw and white on the other. I hope that answers the question. Thanks.
This was an excellent video, very well explained. Unfortunately, Iive in Florida and cannot access the upstairs, its only a small crawl space with absolutely no way of getting to the area of the bedrooms. There is no existing overhead lights in the bedrooms. The wall switch controls one (1) outlet where i have table lamp plugged into. How in the heckin can I put a ceiling fan in these rooms. Please help. Thanks
Thank you! I'm in FL too... 😎. With no access to the upstairs, you have to punch holes in the drywall in order to feed the wire to where you need it. I did a video on this a while ago that kind of shows what I mean: ruclips.net/video/D_BPFT3InPA/видео.html
Not exactly. If your fan has a pull string you can control the speed via the pull string and internal switch. But if your fan didn't come with a wireless remote you can install one of those and control the fan speed that way. The remote can be installed on just about any fan.
Good video. Don’t know enough about electricity to do this myself. You said you had to tap another power source in the attic to supply the new outlet but you didn’t show us how you did that. Is that like robbing Peter to pay Paul? What was the power source .? Did it or will it affect the source or circuit that it was originally intended for? If you splice into a wire just to tap its source does it by code need to be put into a closed junction box? Thanks for your video.
The reason I didn't show the power source is that it would be meaningless to the viewer. Every house is different. All I did was find a junction box in the attic and I tapped into that. I think I did mention that a attic light or electric attic fan would be the easiest source to get power from if you needed it. Yes it needs to be in a closed junction box. And you need to pay attention to what breaker is powering that box. IF it's powered by a 20Amp breaker, then you need to use 12GA wire like I did in the video. The 12GA is usually yellow. It's not like robbing Peter to pay Paul.. pretty much every circuit in your house is shared with other things unless it's a dedicated circuit like a over the stove microwave for example. Hope this helps. Thanks for the comment.. :-)
Every situation is different. Whatever I had to do on this one is more than likely different for someone else. I don't remember what I did in this particular case to be honest..
I have a video on that. You have to cut holes in the drywall at each joist / stud location depending on the direction of the wire.. To get it from the wall to ceiling you'll have to cut a hole at the top of the wall and one at the ceiling as well to allow the wire to make the turn. It's more trouble, but certainly can be done.
I have a room same as yours but confused on which switch or outlet i meed to use. Inhave a switch when turned on controls a top half of an outlet. Where would i find the power?
You'd have to look in the box where the switch is and see if you've got a black and a white set of wires on the switch itself (power off). If you do, then they've run a switch loop back from the plug. If that's the case, you can take apart the plug assy, making sure the power is off of course and you can disable the switch loop and use that set of wires to power the new fan fixture. Of course without being able to see it, i'm only taking a wild guess what they did.
Question on your power source. Did you just make the pigtail off the black power source wire that was originally providing wire to that switch for the outlet lamp setup? Does this avoid having to splice a power wire in the attic from another source? Awesome video, really appreciate the detail.
I couldn't pigtail from the original switch. The power source went straight to the outlet in the wall and they sent back a single 14/2 using the white and black wires to complete the circuit. If you have a switch with constant A/C power available. Yes I would use it. In my case, I had to find a source in the attic.... Hope that answers your question. Thanks.
@@johnsimpson5684 Because sometimes to save wire and time, they will run power source directly to plug in the wall, and run back a single 14/2 and switch only the hot wire to the plug so you have a switch controlled plug. You'll have a hot wire at the switch, but no neutral..
Hey, I’m in Florida. I know a great barber gonna start calling you snapper I like the way you snap your fingers. Great video I had to install ceiling horn strobe in the mall once the ceiling was lathe boy was that fun. all the way down the hall I’m talking a big mall get thousand foot
Yes that sounds like a big job! I've never had the "Fun" on working on something that big... Usually there's plenty of help on those bigger jobs like that.. Im in Fl too... 😎
May be a dumb questionYou stated to fill the hole in added you ran wires into u prevent fire hazard to you need to do the same in the hole cut for the fan circular metal piece
I'm not sure I understood the question. It sounds like you're talking about a fire block at the top of the wall where the wires come thru. The reason for this is "they" (the code people) don't want a draft to go from the walls into the ceiling, so it is common practice to fill those holes up that are drilled for wires, pipes, etc with orange spray foam to fill the gaps.. The hole where the fan goes is not necessary to seal completely. Once you put the box in usually they just cover it with insulation, but if you wanted to, you could seal that with something just to keep cold air from seeping down, but it isn't required.. Did that answer your question or did I completely misunderstand?
Hello , I’m looking to install a ceiling fan in a room that has no wiring, the switch controls an outlet so my question is I can just run my wiring from the fan to the existing switch ?
HI, possibly. You have to check and see if the switch has at least one set of wires with constant power regardless of the switch position. They could have run the power feed to the outlet and then ran a switch loop back to the switch. IF they did, then it won't work.
Recently installed new fan without existing wire. Light switch had no power line coming in, so I had a light in attic on 15 amp circuit that I decided to pull from. Used 14/2 Romeo 3 wire. Connected black to black (power), white to white(negative), and grounds together then back onto the attic light pull switch. Light turned back on after connections, and I ran my power line to light switch where I needed power. Ran a Romex 14/2 from fan to light outlet, then connected new power line to fan line - black to black, white to white, and ground to ground. Only wanted one switch so used wingtips at end of the connections, and made one line for each- black, white, ground which I connected to a new switch for use for powering on fan in that light switch. I turned back on breakers, and fan was on. However if I flick the switch it’s wired to it trips the breaker. Is it the wiring of the new switch, attic light circuit overloading? Any thoughts? Thank you!
I don't have a full picture in my mind yet. If you're flicking the switch I really doubt the breaker is overloading with just a ceiling fan added. Do you have access to Facebook? You can add pictures to my "Take a Bath Productions" Facebook page. The wire from the attic (assuming has power all the time and is not switched in the attic) should come into the new box, the whites should be tied together with a wire nut and the blacks should go through the switch. Of course grounds tied together like the whites. Are you running a 14/3 to the fan so you have a switchable light? IF your fan has a remote control it's not needed, the remote will separate the power.
So I have a bedroom that has the switch like yours in the video and that switch works with an outlet opposite of it. Will I be able to source the power from that outlet?
Great Video! Thanks for posting. Quick question though, since I live in an apartment I obviously wouldn't have access to the attic. I know there are unused electric sockets with functional switches on them, I am wondering whether it might be easier to tap the power from the unused socket; or would you just recommend rewiring the power source from the socket itself. Many thanks
The fan is a low amperage device, so it really doesn't matter where you tap it from. But if you're in a apartment, you might want to check with the property manager to make sure you're not going to cause yourself a problem should they find out you did this!
I tapped into a wire from the attic. I didn't show it because everybody's house is different and I didn't think it would be relevant because of that. I couldn't use the existing switch because it controlled a nearby plug and they ran back a single 14/2 to the switch and only switched the hot wire in the plug.. so at the switch there's no neutral to connect my power source to. In this case the white and black were across the existing switch. So I needed another power source. I hope that answers the question. Thanks.
Do you have DIY vid on installing a fan under a deck. Getting power from an exterior outlet. How would I get power to fan and add a switch and keep outlet
HI, I don't have a video like that, but it's a great idea. Every house is going to be different. It would be difficult for me to say how to get yours done without being able to see it. But you'd have to feed a wire from a outlet to the switch, then from the switch to the fan. That outside wall is insulated, so that makes it more tricky to get the wire through there. You'll probably have to turn off the power to the outlet, and actually remove the outlet from the wall, box and all, so you can access the wall in order to feed the wire up to the switch, and go from there.
HI, You can get it from Lowes. Here's a link to a similar one www.lowes.com/pd/RACO-1-Gang-Silver-Steel-New-Work-Old-Work-Standard-Ceiling-Fan-Ceiling-Electrical-Box/3127059
How can I install a fan in 92 manufactured home , how can I get the wire from the switch to the area in the ceiling where I'll put the mounting box. Cut a narrow channel all the way, wall and across ceiling drilling thru each joist??
Yes that's correct. With no attic access there's no choice. I don't cut a channel the whole way, I cut one at each joist or truss big enough to get my hand in.. I did a video on this some time ago.. : ruclips.net/video/D_BPFT3InPA/видео.html
Rudy thanks! My wall plug is also controlled by a wall switch but I want to make the wall plug run continuous and the one switch for the new fan. How do you suggest I do that?
It's hard to say for sure. Does your current wall switch have the necessary power for the fan? Or do you have to run power from another source? I probably need more details to be able to tell much.
@@TheHomeImprovementChannel the wall switch runs on a line that is 20AMP - I was thinking I can install the ceiling fan and run the wiring from the ceiling to the wall plug where the switch originally controlled and just pigtail ceiling and switch connections there and pigtailing wall plug to be continuous with the original line that already runs into it.
For more context, the wall plug has 2 plugs - 1 controlled by switch and the other continuously feeding power from line. I figure I can just take out the switch on that plug and connect it to ceiling lights or fan by running Romex to it and pigtailing that to the switch wiring already in the box.
@@vidalexperience If you have 2 black wires that went to the original switch, you can wire nut those two wires together and that'll make your plug run continuously and then pigtail your wires for the fan. You'll have to run 12 gauge wire since you're on a 20 amp circuit... Of course I have to mention, if you're not comfortable working around elec please don't attempt it. It depends on the individuals skill level. If you've got the power available in the gang box then yes, you can run a 12/3 wire up to the fan. 12/2 if you want to use a remote control, you don't need a separate wire for a light. Usually fans are 3 conductor in case there's no remote control. (14/3, 12/3 for example). I hope that helps.
@@TheHomeImprovementChannel I’ll look into what you’ve said, I’ve wired things safely before according to code. It makes sense that I wire the 2 black in the switch and then run the ceiling fan or daisy chained high-hats with a 12 to the switch box instead of the wall plug box! Thanks Rudy! I’ll give it a try from the box before I put holes in the ceiling and let you know.
I've been doing home electrical projects for 20 years, and I still learned three or four things because you film while you are actually doing the work. You have an excellent way of explaining things correctly, excellent warnings and tips along the way. I wish I could give you a thousand likes my man.
That is awesome! Thanks for the great feedback.. 😀
Can you add a fan from an outlet instead of a switch, everyone seems to tap into light switch?
Fan would always have power.
Thanks for mentioning the instructions for when you don't have attic access. That's what I'm dealing with and nobody talks about it.
You're welcome! Yes it's a problem if you have a multiple story house snd you're working downstairs.. You're welcome.. 🙂
Its great that you describe troubles one may run into in their application. Most videos seem to only show uncomplicated situations that a lot of us don't have.
Thanks for the great comment.. :-)
This is exactly what I needed. Our house, the master bed room as no over head light and we are wanting a ceiling fan and light. This is perfect. Thank you!!
Glad it was helpful! You're welcome!
Yes, that always struck me as odd when I came to this beautiful country. Rooms with no ceiling light ! 😃
Man I like this. Cut and dry no fancy music either.
Thank you so much!😊😊
You are the best! Thank you so much! I'm a single woman trying to handle things around the house, and your education video is a big support! Blessings to you!
You are so welcome!
This was so helpful! the only thing I might ask is in the description put what tools and materials will be needed before starting the project
Thanks for the idea!
The outlet is a good source for power when installing a ceiling fan with a light kit. The reason for the 1/2 hot outlet is because housing developers were not installing ceiling lights and to get around the codes they would install the 1/2 hot outlet in bedrooms and living areas. In order to provide proper power to the switch box a little reconfiguring of the conductors at the outlet will be necessary.. This can be easily done by removing the neutral wire (white) from the line hot (black) and reconnect the white conductor to the rest of the neutrals. It's a good idea to replace the receptacle at this time with a new one due to the bi-metal being cut separating the two halves. Using a short jumper wire will achieve the same results. The next step is to run a single 14/3 up the wall to the fan junction box without having to search to a separate power source. This also eliminates the need to use a common trip breaker for each separate circuit, incase one circuit tripped leaving the second circuit hot. I would also make it clear that all ceiling fans require UL approved support braces and junction boxes for supporting The days of throwing up a 2x4 stud and screwing in a round metal box with 6/32 bent tabs for mounting the fan support are gone.
Hi, Yes I thought of re configuring the wire inside the outlet box, but I actually wanted to keep that outlet switchable. They didn't cut the metal piece separating the two halves, so the whole outlet was switchable.. I also didn't want to make the video to complicated, so I chose to seek out a different power source. Thanks for the comment... :-)
Dude, you made it simple for me. I almost spent a ton of money. That’s really cool of you.
Thank you so much for the great comment! I'm glad the video was able to help
I got that gun and vibrasaw !! haha great information , 23 years old 2 years in the residential construction world. Learned a lot !
Yep, it's a lot of work... :-)
Great-detailed, well-explained, thorough, & competent video on how to wire up a fan. A common & well desired home upgrade project.
Glad you enjoyed it, Thank You!.. :-)
Informational, easy to understand, and entertaining all at the same time!
Thank you so much!..
Liked, subscribed. Just did this on my home. I had no attic access at ALL! Later, after hearing some squirrels, I installed an attic ladder. So much nicer having access. Recesses lights in the hall were easy as pie.
Awesome! Thanks for the like and sub... :-). I'm surprised if you had an attic, no one put access to it.... Those attic ladders are nice... I wish I had that, but the way my entry is configured it would hit on a wall... :-(
Thumbs up. Very concise and to the point on everything. My room is by similar to your video including attic access and no ceiling box. I have a light switch that doesn't control anything so once I get the balls to do this I'm hoping I can simply wire up that switch and have power. 😁
That light switch might control a plug nearby, or a outside light... I'd be surprised if it actually doesn't control anything, although it's possible.
Nice video. Regarding your comment at 7:50 about stapling the wire in the wall - You're good to go. According to code, old work installation does not require stapling the wire. The clamp in the J-box provides strain relief. Just don't break off the plastic tab where the wire comes into the box like I've seen on some other videos.
Thanks! Excellent info... :-)
Perfect. I have the wiring and hole already, but I'm replacing an old fluorescent box light with a fan, so I needed the info on how to get a mount in there without attic access. Thanks so much!
You're welcome!
As a commercial electrician this was a very good video and I don’t remember any part of it making me grit my teeth if you told me your background was electric I’d believe it, before anyone pulls the if your a electrician why are you watching this, I do commercial new construction and wasn’t entirely sure the best way to fish wire with minimal drywall damage, only reason I’m trying to prove myself is just for anyone considering doing this to have confidence in this video that everything was done proper and as a professional would do
Thank you so much! I really appreciate the great feedback.. 😀
Great video! Clear, concise, yet thorough....rare these days. Liked and subscribed.
Greg Simpson excellent! Thanks for the great comment 😎😎
Awesome video. Makes perfect sense and you even gave viewers extra info if their setup is different than yours.
Thanks for the great comment.. :-)
Great video. The pig tails are the easiest way to make sure you can adjust the switches. I gotta do a job like you described notching the ceiling. Talk about doubling the time and mess.
I'm used to a big mess!.. :-)
Excellent video! I had never seen one of those fan installation bars before. I just ordered a two pack of them on amazon.
Product name:
"Westinghouse Lighting 0101000 Saf-T-Brace for Ceiling Fans, 4 Teeth with Locking Screw"
HUH.. I looked that one up.. I don't know why they're charging $39 for it! They're about $15 from lowes...I'm sure it'll work though
@@TheHomeImprovementChannel That was cdn and for a two pack. I'm getting two for $46.34 cdn with taxes and two day delivery.
Very simple and clear instructions. Thank you for sharing!
Excellent!.. Thanks... :-)
Thank you for the detailed video! Really helping me out at a house I've recently purchased.
Great to hear!
Great video brother you do a great job giving tips along the way about safety as well. I see a lot of professional youtubers never mention some of the safety concerns you do.
I appreciate that! Thank you so much!
Thanks Alice Cooper!!
That’s awesome 👏
I almost choked, good one lol
@@IntotheSarlacc Lol...
Hahahahaha no man, hahahaha that's how u pay back to a free video lol
LOL
You are an excellent teacher. I learned a lot, not just about installing a ceiling fan. Thanks for sharing. God bless! :-)
You are very welcome. Thank you for the great feedback.. 😊 God bless u 2..
I gave this a thumbs up just for the intro! The rest of the video was pretty good too.
Thank U!
never did it before, you made look doable. Will get back to you.
Excellent!.. :-)
great video! I have the same set upin the bedroom with a switch going to the outlet. I`ve got confused on the wiring. wish it was a little more detailed which wire goes where and if you added a jumper from the main switch to the new one.
I believe I pulled the power from a source in the attic. I didn't cover the details so much on where I got the power because every situation is going to be different..
"Your best bet is to do this with the power turned off" LOL.hahaha
Sometimes I don't take my own advise! I've done plenty with the power on... :-)
If there is a stud to the left of your switch, just use a two gang box on the other side and have separate switch panel. A small hole in stud for wiring travel is fine.
Yes that would work fine. It probably wouldn't look as clean as a 2 gang, but it would definitely work fine...
Perfect vid... This will help the entire project! Very easy to understand. Thanks!!
You're welcome.. Thanks for the great feedback.. 😊😊
Thank you for the video. Retrofitting a light fixture box for a ceiling fan box will be one of my first diy projects involving electricity. You mention at the end of the video, “...and don’t forget the ground screw”, do I just screw it into a spare hole in the box??
Usually there's a threaded hole with a concave area to accommodate the ground wire. It should be pretty obvious which one they want to you use... I hope that helps.. thanks for the comment.. :-)
I’ll check that out, thanks for the reply :)
Excellent, thank you for shearing your knowledge, I really appreciate it. I'm an apprentice
You are very welcome. Let me know if you have any other questions... :-)
Very nice video. Thanks for showing each step, that was very helpful. The 2 things I would have like to see more in-depth was how the black and red wire for the fan connected to the light switch and how the 2 pig tails connected to both light switches. Also I would had like to see how the 3-wire wiring connected to the fan wires since you used 3-wire wiring. But other then that I feel that I can now do my son's room. Thanks again!
The black wire usually goes to the fan motor, and the red wire usually goes to the light. On the fan the black goes to the black and the red will go to the blue light wire. The pig tails are just so I can take the single hot wire coming from the source and split them to go to 2 switches. You don't have to do it that way, its just the method I used. I've seen guys take a single hot wire that's pretty long and connect one switch several inches from the end, after they peel it back of course, and then run the rest of the wire over to the other switch so they're daisy chained together like Christmas lights. Does that help?
@@TheHomeImprovementChannelsince you used a 3 switch setup, why did you keep 3 switches when you just need two for light and fan. Installing can lighting later or keeping the plug switch? Maybe I missed something. Thank you for the great video.
Thank you!! That was a huge help, couldn’t wrap my head around the wiring.
You're welcome!.. :-)
saved for later. thank you! this will help me this weekend knock out a fan. our living room currently has 3 lamps in it
Excellent! Let me know if you have a question.. :-)
you are very helping person,wish you the best
Thank u! U2... 😎
Question, do i need to inform the city building for permit for installing a ceiling fan fuxtures? Thanks
Hi. You should always check local building codes!
The most important parts i needed was how you got past the block in the wall. And how or what power source did you use
The power source is going to vary from house to house. There probably aren't 2 that'll be the same. I wound up tapping into an existing junction box in the attic that supplied constant power. If you have an attic light that's an ideal place to tap if it's not to far away from your installation site. If you have a block in the wall, they sell a drill bit that's 4' long. It's flexible and you can use that to drill through a block. It's a good idea to try to look through your initial hole in the attic to be sure you don't hit any wiring or something like that. You can look up from where the switch box is going to be with a mirror and a flashlight to see the block from the bottom to make sure that's clear as well. It's best to not drill blind or you might hit something you don't want to! Hope that helps.
@@TheHomeImprovementChannel thanks. I had no junction boxes and the attic didn't go as far as the service panel...smh. I didn't want to DIY a junction off existing wiring in the attic.. so I just used a heavy duty extention cord and dropped through the ceiling close to the wall and plugged it into the wall reciprocal that is worked by the light switch. The cord is barely noticeable behind the TV.
@@Keepinitreal4unow Yes that's one way to do it.. 😊
Great video and very informative, the one question I have is where did the black wire come from to make the pig tails? Did you have to buy that separately?
Yes, so I had to take power from a source in the attic. Sometimes you can use the existing switch, but in my case there was no constant power there. Yes, I had to supply the 12 gauge wires to run from the power source to the switch, and from the switch back to the new fan.
This video gave me the info. and confidence I needed to tackle the same project. It was a complete disaster, but at least I gave it a shot.
That's awesome! Do you have a specific question I can help you with?
Great video, very helpful. Thank you for taking the time to do this. I am confident that we can do this ourselves. For ceiling fans what size Romex is best? 12/3 or 14/2. Does it make a difference? Why? Also, I don’t want the toggle switch to operate the wall outlet any longer, how do you make that happen?
Yes it matters! It depends on the circuit that you tap into. If the existing circuit is on a 20 amp breaker or a 15 amp. You should use 12 gauge for 20 amp and 14 gauge for 15 amp. Great question.. 🙂. The existing house wiring should already be the right size
Great video, wish you would have went into more detail on the wiring from the switches to fan and lights.
Thanks for the feedback!. I don't remember, but I may have left that out intentionally since the wiring of this house will be different than other houses. (If I understood your comment correctly)
after getting an $800 quote to install three ceiling fans, I looked up a how to video and found yours. I'm seriously nervous about attempting this myself, but you make me think maybe I can. Any suggestions for a first timer? I have installed lighting before but only replacements, never putting a light where no light was before so...
If you're not comfortable around electric I don't recommend it. You might think about getting one of those pen style contactless voltage sensors. This way you can more easily identify hot wires. Are you working with an attic? That'll help to minimize drywall damage. Finding a power source is going to be different if every case. If you have an attic you should have more options. If there are any electrical boxes up there that would be a good place to start as a source. Is there an attic light? The attic light would be the easiest source to tap into.. One other option.. if you say that a plug is switched and the wire is running back to the switch. Usually that'll mean that there's a direct power source in that box where the plug is. Can you run the power wire directly to the plug so that it's no longer switched, and then rewire the wire that went to the switch to provide constant power? Obviously disconnect the power before doing this, and get rid of the switch since it'll short those wires out, then you'll have a power source at the switch location. The plug doesn't need to be on a switch anymore if you have an overhead light in the fan..
pardon my ignorance....Why did you install 2 additional switches? 1 for fan operation and 1 for lights on the fan? Could I also install just 1 additional switch (not 2) and just use the pull string for selecting operating modes of fan/light ?
Thanks!
Not an ignorant question... :-). One switch was for the existing plug that already had a switch when I pulled the 1 gang box out of the wall and replaced it with a 3 gang. I used two switches for the fan, which aren't really necessary since most fans these days use a remote control, I could have gotten by with 1 switch since there's a remote to separate fan light from fan itself. I hope that answers the question.
Can you add a fan from an outlet instead of a light switch? Everyone seems to only tap into a light switch
Yes... You can add a fan from any power source as long as you can feed the wire from point A to B. You can also add a remote control from Amazon or Lowes, etc to be able to control it so you're not stuck using the pull chains on the fan.
Excellent video man!! Thank you for taking the time to save me a boat load of headaches! Cheers! :D
Awesome! Your welcome... :-)
couldn't you have just done a switch with a dimmer to control the fan and light? was the extra switch necessary?
You could, or you could put a remote in the fan and still use one switch. But a lot of the time, when they wire up a new house, they do it like this with two switches for the fan with a 14/3 wire. But your right, you don't have to do it that way.
I saw you connected the two (new) neutral lines together but the original neutral line was left out... where did that get hooked up to? Or did you wind up including it to the rest of the neutral connections?
That other neutral goes to a plug and it's not neutral at all. They split the hot wire at the plug with the black and white wires and those two wires just go to a switch. Black on one screw and white on the other. I hope that answers the question. Thanks.
Absolutely brilliant video. Thank you so, very, very much. I'm off to the hardware store.
Michael Stephanic you’re welcome 🙂🙂🙂... thanks for the comment
Very good to know I plan on doing that in my living room 👍🏻
Excellent! Let me know if you have a question. I'll do my best to answer it.
This was an excellent video, very well explained. Unfortunately, Iive in Florida and cannot access the upstairs, its only a small crawl space with absolutely no way of getting to the area of the bedrooms. There is no existing overhead lights in the bedrooms. The wall switch controls one (1) outlet where i have table lamp plugged into. How in the heckin can I put a ceiling fan in these rooms. Please help. Thanks
Thank you! I'm in FL too... 😎. With no access to the upstairs, you have to punch holes in the drywall in order to feed the wire to where you need it. I did a video on this a while ago that kind of shows what I mean:
ruclips.net/video/D_BPFT3InPA/видео.html
Thank you
@@MsCocopuffy You're welcome!
Great video! Are you able to control the fan speed with this switch type?
Not exactly. If your fan has a pull string you can control the speed via the pull string and internal switch. But if your fan didn't come with a wireless remote you can install one of those and control the fan speed that way. The remote can be installed on just about any fan.
Good video. Don’t know enough about electricity to do this myself. You said you had to tap another power source in the attic to supply the new outlet but you didn’t show us how you did that. Is that like robbing Peter to pay Paul? What was the power source .? Did it or will it affect the source or circuit that it was originally intended for? If you splice into a wire just to tap its source does it by code need to be put into a closed junction box? Thanks for your video.
The reason I didn't show the power source is that it would be meaningless to the viewer. Every house is different. All I did was find a junction box in the attic and I tapped into that. I think I did mention that a attic light or electric attic fan would be the easiest source to get power from if you needed it. Yes it needs to be in a closed junction box. And you need to pay attention to what breaker is powering that box. IF it's powered by a 20Amp breaker, then you need to use 12GA wire like I did in the video. The 12GA is usually yellow. It's not like robbing Peter to pay Paul.. pretty much every circuit in your house is shared with other things unless it's a dedicated circuit like a over the stove microwave for example. Hope this helps. Thanks for the comment.. :-)
Couldnt you drill the hole for the fan from the attic ?
Yes you can. To me seems harder unless your attic is nice and tall so your not in there like a pretzel!
So the black wire from the original switch is where you grabbed the power to tie into the two new switches?
Every situation is different. Whatever I had to do on this one is more than likely different for someone else. I don't remember what I did in this particular case to be honest..
But I don’t have that much arm hair! Can I still do the install?
It's a prerequisite 😂
"Whole lotta sadness if you hit it". LOL!!
Very helpful. Thank you for sharing.
You're welcome.. 😊😊
nice job. great demonstration
Thank you!
Thank you for this very detailed explanation! May be a rookie question, but do you need to file for a permit to do this?
In most places, I'd say no. But you might want to check with your local county.
What about when you want one on the first floor of a 2 story home?
I have a video on that. You have to cut holes in the drywall at each joist / stud location depending on the direction of the wire.. To get it from the wall to ceiling you'll have to cut a hole at the top of the wall and one at the ceiling as well to allow the wire to make the turn. It's more trouble, but certainly can be done.
@@TheHomeImprovementChannel thank you! I’ll look
I have a room same as yours but confused on which switch or outlet i meed to use. Inhave a switch when turned on controls a top half of an outlet. Where would i find the power?
You'd have to look in the box where the switch is and see if you've got a black and a white set of wires on the switch itself (power off). If you do, then they've run a switch loop back from the plug. If that's the case, you can take apart the plug assy, making sure the power is off of course and you can disable the switch loop and use that set of wires to power the new fan fixture. Of course without being able to see it, i'm only taking a wild guess what they did.
Forgot to mentions, did you use 2 3-way light switches or 2 standard light switches??
These are standard switches. Most bedrooms don't have 3 way switches unless they are a larger room so there's multiple switch points.
Question on your power source. Did you just make the pigtail off the black power source wire that was originally providing wire to that switch for the outlet lamp setup? Does this avoid having to splice a power wire in the attic from another source? Awesome video, really appreciate the detail.
I couldn't pigtail from the original switch. The power source went straight to the outlet in the wall and they sent back a single 14/2 using the white and black wires to complete the circuit. If you have a switch with constant A/C power available. Yes I would use it. In my case, I had to find a source in the attic.... Hope that answers your question. Thanks.
Sure does, thank you.
@@TheHomeImprovementChannel Why doesn't that switch have constant A/C power available. I don't understand that. How does it not?
@@johnsimpson5684 Because sometimes to save wire and time, they will run power source directly to plug in the wall, and run back a single 14/2 and switch only the hot wire to the plug so you have a switch controlled plug. You'll have a hot wire at the switch, but no neutral..
I think I can actually use this video. Thanks @TheHomeImprovmentChannel … the wire through the middle is icing on the cake.
TYSM! I'm glad to help...
Hey, I’m in Florida. I know a great barber gonna start calling you snapper I like the way you snap your fingers.
Great video I had to install ceiling horn strobe in the mall once the ceiling was lathe boy was that fun. all the way down the hall I’m talking a big mall get thousand foot
Yes that sounds like a big job! I've never had the "Fun" on working on something that big... Usually there's plenty of help on those bigger jobs like that.. Im in Fl too... 😎
Thanks, excellent video.... I'm doing one in my kitchen !!
Awesome! I hope it turns out well for you.. 😀
Exactly what i was looking for... Thanks bro
Awesome! Thank U... :-)
May be a dumb questionYou stated to fill the hole in added you ran wires into u prevent fire hazard to you need to do the same in the hole cut for the fan circular metal piece
I'm not sure I understood the question. It sounds like you're talking about a fire block at the top of the wall where the wires come thru. The reason for this is "they" (the code people) don't want a draft to go from the walls into the ceiling, so it is common practice to fill those holes up that are drilled for wires, pipes, etc with orange spray foam to fill the gaps.. The hole where the fan goes is not necessary to seal completely. Once you put the box in usually they just cover it with insulation, but if you wanted to, you could seal that with something just to keep cold air from seeping down, but it isn't required.. Did that answer your question or did I completely misunderstand?
Great video, we installed a 32 inch ceiling fan in a medium sized bathroom..
I don't think you want that thing running when you get out of the shower! Brrrrrrr
Fantastic Video, Thanks sir.
Most welcome!
Hello , I’m looking to install a ceiling fan in a room that has no wiring, the switch controls an outlet so my question is I can just run my wiring from the fan to the existing switch ?
HI, possibly. You have to check and see if the switch has at least one set of wires with constant power regardless of the switch position. They could have run the power feed to the outlet and then ran a switch loop back to the switch. IF they did, then it won't work.
M a new home owner…… do m learning all I can.
Thanku
Excellent! Glad I could help... 😀
You are the real deal! Thank you so much for your $ saving advice!
Thanks for the great comment.. :-)
Love the video, well explained, subscribed!
Awesome! Thanks for the comment.. :-)
Recently installed new fan without existing wire.
Light switch had no power line coming in, so I had a light in attic on 15 amp circuit that I decided to pull from.
Used 14/2 Romeo 3 wire.
Connected black to black (power), white to white(negative), and grounds together then back onto the attic light pull switch.
Light turned back on after connections, and I ran my power line to light switch where I needed power.
Ran a Romex 14/2 from fan to light outlet, then connected new power line to fan line - black to black, white to white, and ground to ground.
Only wanted one switch so used wingtips at end of the connections, and made one line for each- black, white, ground which I connected to a new switch for use for powering on fan in that light switch.
I turned back on breakers, and fan was on.
However if I flick the switch it’s wired to it trips the breaker.
Is it the wiring of the new switch, attic light circuit overloading?
Any thoughts?
Thank you!
I don't have a full picture in my mind yet. If you're flicking the switch I really doubt the breaker is overloading with just a ceiling fan added. Do you have access to Facebook? You can add pictures to my "Take a Bath Productions" Facebook page. The wire from the attic (assuming has power all the time and is not switched in the attic) should come into the new box, the whites should be tied together with a wire nut and the blacks should go through the switch. Of course grounds tied together like the whites. Are you running a 14/3 to the fan so you have a switchable light? IF your fan has a remote control it's not needed, the remote will separate the power.
So I have a bedroom that has the switch like yours in the video and that switch works with an outlet opposite of it. Will I be able to source the power from that outlet?
It depends on the wiring. You need a way to measure voltage so you can have a constant voltage source for your switch.
@@TheHomeImprovementChannel thanks!
How would you install a ceiling fan outdoors without any existing wiring? I have a light mounted a wall outside and I’m not exactly how to do it
HI Leonardo that's a pretty difficult question to answer without being able to see your particular setup or situation...
You are the man! Thanks for the video! Liked and subscribed 👍
Thanks for the sub! You're welcome!
Great Video! Thanks for posting. Quick question though, since I live in an apartment I obviously wouldn't have access to the attic. I know there are unused electric sockets with functional switches on them, I am wondering whether it might be easier to tap the power from the unused socket; or would you just recommend rewiring the power source from the socket itself. Many thanks
The fan is a low amperage device, so it really doesn't matter where you tap it from. But if you're in a apartment, you might want to check with the property manager to make sure you're not going to cause yourself a problem should they find out you did this!
Thanks. Will give the building manager a shout!
Can you use this ceiling brace for sloped ceiling?
Yes it should work fine.. You'll have to use a downrod with a ball so that the fan winds up level..
Can you explain in this particular case from where you got the power source? Was it from a wire in the attic or from the original one in the switch?
I tapped into a wire from the attic. I didn't show it because everybody's house is different and I didn't think it would be relevant because of that. I couldn't use the existing switch because it controlled a nearby plug and they ran back a single 14/2 to the switch and only switched the hot wire in the plug.. so at the switch there's no neutral to connect my power source to. In this case the white and black were across the existing switch. So I needed another power source. I hope that answers the question. Thanks.
Very knowledgeable and helpful. Thank you.
You're welcome
Thanks for sharing this video.
You're welcome... :-)
Do you have DIY vid on installing a fan under a deck. Getting power from an exterior outlet.
How would I get power to fan and add a switch and keep outlet
HI, I don't have a video like that, but it's a great idea. Every house is going to be different. It would be difficult for me to say how to get yours done without being able to see it. But you'd have to feed a wire from a outlet to the switch, then from the switch to the fan. That outside wall is insulated, so that makes it more tricky to get the wire through there. You'll probably have to turn off the power to the outlet, and actually remove the outlet from the wall, box and all, so you can access the wall in order to feed the wire up to the switch, and go from there.
@@TheHomeImprovementChannel
Thx
You're welcome. 😊
what is the name for the expandable bar you used in the video?
HI, You can get it from Lowes. Here's a link to a similar one
www.lowes.com/pd/RACO-1-Gang-Silver-Steel-New-Work-Old-Work-Standard-Ceiling-Fan-Ceiling-Electrical-Box/3127059
This was very helpful! Thank you! 🙂
Excellent! You're welcome... 🙂
Excellent and well explained
Wooohh!!! You really a genius. Thanks. Very nice video. 🤗🥇👍🍻
Thank u so much!
If i cant do myself how much should i pay someone to install it with no power source
HI, there's such a wide variety of situations, it's very difficult to say.
Really well made video, thanks!
TYSM! I really appreciate it..
Great!! This is what I am looking for. Thank you.
You're welcome!
How can I install a fan in 92 manufactured home , how can I get the wire from the switch to the area in the ceiling where I'll put the mounting box. Cut a narrow channel all the way, wall and across ceiling drilling thru each joist??
Yes that's correct. With no attic access there's no choice. I don't cut a channel the whole way, I cut one at each joist or truss big enough to get my hand in.. I did a video on this some time ago.. : ruclips.net/video/D_BPFT3InPA/видео.html
That's exactly what I did and it works great. 👍
Excellent!.... Thanks for the comment... :-)
3:22 this sounds like a song
Rudy thanks! My wall plug is also controlled by a wall switch but I want to make the wall plug run continuous and the one switch for the new fan. How do you suggest I do that?
It's hard to say for sure. Does your current wall switch have the necessary power for the fan? Or do you have to run power from another source? I probably need more details to be able to tell much.
@@TheHomeImprovementChannel the wall switch runs on a line that is 20AMP - I was thinking I can install the ceiling fan and run the wiring from the ceiling to the wall plug where the switch originally controlled and just pigtail ceiling and switch connections there and pigtailing wall plug to be continuous with the original line that already runs into it.
For more context, the wall plug has 2 plugs - 1 controlled by switch and the other continuously feeding power from line. I figure I can just take out the switch on that plug and connect it to ceiling lights or fan by running Romex to it and pigtailing that to the switch wiring already in the box.
@@vidalexperience If you have 2 black wires that went to the original switch, you can wire nut those two wires together and that'll make your plug run continuously and then pigtail your wires for the fan. You'll have to run 12 gauge wire since you're on a 20 amp circuit... Of course I have to mention, if you're not comfortable working around elec please don't attempt it. It depends on the individuals skill level. If you've got the power available in the gang box then yes, you can run a 12/3 wire up to the fan. 12/2 if you want to use a remote control, you don't need a separate wire for a light. Usually fans are 3 conductor in case there's no remote control. (14/3, 12/3 for example). I hope that helps.
@@TheHomeImprovementChannel I’ll look into what you’ve said, I’ve wired things safely before according to code. It makes sense that I wire the 2 black in the switch and then run the ceiling fan or daisy chained high-hats with a 12 to the switch box instead of the wall plug box! Thanks Rudy! I’ll give it a try from the box before I put holes in the ceiling and let you know.
1:28 Gee, thanks!! haha Great video, very helpful...I just couldn't help but chuckle at that part.
Mi Ka 🙂🙂🙂
eye protection needed when sawing that ceiling! the vacuum was a great tip
Yes it's a good idea... drywall doesn't feel good in the eyes..☹️