Avoid This VERY Common Mistake DIYers Make When Installing a Ceiling Fan | How To
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- Опубликовано: 18 авг 2023
- In this video I show you how to install a ceiling fan and avoid an incredibly common and potentially dangerous mistake most DIYers make. The ceiling fan installation is not very difficult and usually takes around 15-20 minutes to do.
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Wago 221 Assortment Kit: amzn.to/3QLH1dr
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Be honest, are you guilty of leaving the wire connections out of the box in the past? It is very common. Also, there are links to everything you saw in the video in the description of the video if you would like to check them out for yourself!
Yup, guilty
I don't know, my electrician installed the fan so I have to assume he knew what he was doing. The fan didn't come with a light kit so I bought an aftermarket kit years later and installed it myself.
Yep and it's just fine. I've never had a problem leaving them out of the box, and I will continue to do it that way. Not an issue at all.
It can definitely be an issue. But you continue creating a hazard and violate code for no reason.
I'm a professional electrician and I do this. The space under the cover is usable wiring space according to code. While it's a good idea to do this in order to try saving space for wireless fan controllers it's not required and makes servicing easier, especially for fans with your style of bracket.
If your replacing a light with a ceiling fan you should make sure that your ceiling electrical box can handle the added weight / vibration and that the box is securely mounted to the ceiling joists. You would not want the fan falling down from the ceiling.
I agree!
@DW424 is correct, ceiling fan junction boxes are labeled as "Fan Rated". Ceiling junction boxes that previously supported a light fixture may not be fan support rated.
This is an extremely important point. A nail on ceiling box or even a ceiling box that has bracket to mount between studs are not suitable for a fan. There are many options available to retrofit with a fan rated box.
The box in the video is clearly a fan rated box. But even if it wasn’t, how many years did we go using standard fixture boxes and people’s fans aren’t just falling out of the ceiling. In fact up until fairly recently this was not even a requirement unless the fan weighed 35 pounds or more. These fans, unless much larger, are typically nowhere near this weight. So while yes it would be best to install a fan rated box and currently code, let’s not pretend like the fan is just going to come down in a fixture box. In most cases it won’t and hasn’t.
@@johnpicard4909 you are definitely not wrong that for many years no one knew of or used fan rated boxes, however we at least screwed those boxes to a ceiling joist or at least pulled on them to make sure they would support whatever we were hanging. My point really was that it was not mentioned and people should be aware. In my area, particularly for homes built in the 70’s and 80’s ceiling boxes are often nail on and I have seen fans pull away from the ceiling even if they didn’t fall. They might not be overly dangerous, but they don’t look great.
Before you do anything, after you remove the light fixture, make sure that the box is properly rated and secured to hold the weight of the fan.
He didn't do that
2020 NEC 314.27(C) That's why you see fan base wobbling around in the ceiling J-box from 1970 house.
how do we do that
First, if it is a metal box, you should be good to go. If it is plastic, they are rated for different weights (grey plastic boxes are rated for heavier loads) and you can check with the hardware guys on the rating. In either case, if it is loose, you have issues. If you cannot secure it better, you can remove it and buy a ‘remodel construction ceiling fan brace’ at the hardware store. They work pretty well.
👍! You beat me to it. Don't assume that it was installed to code.
I installed my first ceiling fan today all because of this video. Thank you for providing clear and detailed instructions that are beginner friendly. ❤
I definitely have done it. Pancake boxes that are listed to support fans could never accommodate all those wires. There is an exception in the code that does allow the wires to utilize the canopy space in a box fill calculation. I do agree you should tuck the wires up though. Sometimes its impossible.
Great video. As a side note and maybe a repeat: IF the wires from the ceiling box and the fan are long enough, you can make your electrical connections while the fan is hanging on the "hook" and then push them through the bracket hole into the ceiling box before mounting the fan motor to the bracket. It's easier to do and easier to make certain the connectors remain undisturbed.
Great demonstration! Good teacher!
Fans much improved from my early days of fitting up a household, 60 years ago.
LEDs worth the wait!
Oh yes, they have come a VERY long way. My goodness these used to be a real chore to hold up in place and screw them in and also screw in each individual fan blade. It is all so easy now. Thanks a lot for the feedback. I really do appreciate it!
Best close camera work of any videos, sharp and clear. Nice job.
I love your videos. Precise, clear instructions and importantly code compliance also. You are one of the best. Thank you and keep adding more useful videos.
How do you balance an imbalanced fan?
Just the video I needed to see, Recently had a job working with a master electrician and noticed he ran a 14-3 wire to ceiling fan areas in the bedrooms. I wondered why he did that but now I know exactly why. Also he ran it out of a 2 gang switch box which l thought for certain it’s just a 1 switch box. I immediately noticed I was thinking wrong. The black wire connects to fan and red goes to light or visa versa. Amazing job explaining this your video is a pot of gold.
I installed this Hampton Bay fan just a month ago and it’s the noisiest fan I’ve ever installed. And I’ve done a hundred fans. And for ease of wiring do that before screwing the motor to the ceiling bracket. That gives you more room to get the wires up into the box. Good video!
Some of the Chinese ones are lacking 5 drops of if 30 weight oil on the two bearings.
Haha my Hampton bay is making an awful high pitched noise when the light is on. I didn't put it on a dimmer switch but they do dim, when holding the light button on the remote and brighten. Dim it's louder than when it's bright. So annoying.
Thank you for taking the time to make this video helps out a lot.💯
There are times that getting all the connections into the box is almost impossible. One example is a fan that has a remote receiver. Those take up all the room above the mounting ball and they have connections not only to the switched power, but to the fan wiring as well. Id love to see a video that includes the remote receiver, especially with one of the fans that has a relatively small trim on the ceiling side.
Them remote recievers can be hell to fit!!
Not to mention that you’ll have a bunch of splices in the light fixture portion of the assembly that aren’t in a junction box either, so what difference does it make? At least on the fan side of the hanging bracket any sparks from a poor connection are falling down onto metal. If you tuck the wires into the junction box, those sparks are falling down onto the paper backing of the drywall...
@@davido3403 BIG time ! & especially when the shroud/canopy thingy doesn't just fit over the entire motor like this one but rather must already be just below everything giving you only a few inches of play at most. Even if it's not a flush mount & has a downrod. Not exactly a one man job, though I'm sure it is for some pros. Hell, I've done a few dozen in my time & I couldn't even do the light-kit section alone on the last one I did.
I just installed one with the remote, never again. A pull switch will last a lot longer than a receiver.
Notice the lack of a ball on this fan. This fan is going to be noisy AF before long with the $10 chinesium motor and the screwed together mounting with nothing to absorb the vibration.
Very helpful information, especially regarding the word, for my very first ceiling fan installation.
On most fixtures that I've replaced, there is a ground screw intentionally placed facing up (when installed correctly) to indicate that the wiring is intended to be above the plate. This relates to his mention about code and wire location.
Thank you for your video. Your instructions are clear with great visuals!
When two or more switches together, the first switch closest to the door, should always be for illuminating the room your entering into. This applies to garages or any building too.
Appreciate the input.
counterpoint: when you have two or more switches at an entry door, the one closest to the door should turn on the light outside the door, and then they should go in order of how commonly the light is used - I.E. the second turns on the primary light inside the door, and any more switches will turn on accent lights.
@@kenbrown2808 guess it's a matter of preference. I've also heard the first switch one comes to when exiting to the outside, should turn on the outside light(s). Probably depends on the codes in any area and the year of construction.
@@lcee6592 that's all just common practice. the only code is that any entry door to a space has to have a switch near the door that can turn on a light in the space.
My 2005-era home was wired this way as well - closest to bedroom or room entry door is light, then the next one is fan. If a gang of 3, the 3rd and furthest would be switched outlet.
This was a very useful video, thanks for making it.
Very well done. These fans have definitely come a long way in ease of installation. I see lots of comments about if the box is rated to support a fan and using a spreader bar to span to the next joist. Another thing is there are usually holes in the bracket so that If your box is mounted to the joist you can screw directly into the joist through the bracket to support the bracket and the weight of the fan. This also cuts down on any wobbling that might occur.
Keep up the good work 👍🏻
Great content and super clear instructions.
Great Video. Thank you for sharing
Glad I found this video. I ordered push-in wire connectors and learned it's only for copper wires and not aluminum which most fans come with. Assuming these can take aluminum.
It is not aluminum wire most of the time. It’s tinned copper making it like silver in color. If it is aluminum it has to be clearly marked as such.
@@HowToHomeDIY ahh good to know. I have a hard time getting the twisted ceiling fan
Wire to take on the push in connectors. Just ordered the ones you used in the video!!
@TheBluuHouse yeah this is one of the applications where I really like using the lever connectors.
Love this video. Would be great to have a video for a fan with a remote.
Just a suggestion, whenever you have exposed wires and something can always go wrong, please add one of the in line wagos to each wire so that none are exposed when you turn the breaker on to test. That way there is nothing exposed in case there is an accident and you happen to slip and your hands touch a wire. Anything can happen and being as prepared as possible would decrease the chance of a bad day.... the plus side, you would have half the wiring done.
Very true indeed because when working on a ladder , Just a little zap can cause you to fall off the ladder and possibly injuring yourself permanently or end up killing yourself and never trust a non contact voltage tester because you want to be absolutely sure the power is off when working on a ladder , A friend of mine several years ago was working on a light fixture and he got a zap and fell off the ladder and ended up with a broken back , Luckily his daughter was there to call for help and he was very very lucky that he wasn't paralyzed by his broken back , Safety is an absolute must when it comes to electrical work
Especially when working on a ladder and my friend could have easily been paralyzed or killed and just that little zap is all it took to knock him off the ladder
The very first thing I do is put a Wago connector on every exposed wire so there is no chance of contacting live wires.
@@wayneyadams That's especially important when working on a ladder and never use a non contact voltage tester to check to make sure the power is off because a non contact voltage tester can give you a false reading with the wires in close proximity to each other , When it comes to safety , There's no such thing as being too careful , Another thing is always have a second person with you when doing electrical work , Especially when working on a ladder also known as The Buddy System
That way if an accident was to happen
That person can call for help
Never do electrical work by yourself ,
It's a very risky thing to do and if an accident was to happen , You could be seriously injured with nobody to call for help and possibly be dead from electrocution
There's safety in numbers and you'll feel much more comfortable too
What is the in-line wagos?
Thanks you’re really save my life is telling me that and I’m grateful
Thank you great tutorial !!!
Hi I watched some of your great videos I have a problem with field mice getting under my garage door. Unfortunately I still have a manual door. The the stopper catcher on the vertical guide can not be moved and there is no travel left in it to adjust it. So it looks like I need to remove the part that is bolted to a steel plate on the door itself. I cant find any RUclips video to help me. I'm worried if I unscrew the catch mechanism I wont be able to relocate it just a small amount. Any helpful ideas? Thanks
My dude. I JUST installed my new ceiling fan in the bedroom. Came over to sit on the couch and relax afterward and see this video posted. The timing. 😂 Of course, I don't need it, I've installed my fair share of fixtures.
One thing I've noticed on these particular brackets is the center hole where the wires pass through is there can be sharp edges at the center hole
So before I install the bracket , I'll use a snap in anti short bushing to prevent severing the wires When tucking them into the box , Another thing that if I was using wago connectors , Before tucking them into the box I'd wrap them with a little bit of electrical tape to prevent the levers from snagging other wires and causing them to pop up , One very very important thing is before you begin installing the fan is to make sure that the junction box is fully secured to support the weight of the fan and the box must be a metal box Never use a plastic junction box , Many light fixtures use a junction box that has a side bracket that is nailed to the joist , , In that case I had to remove that box and get a ceiling fan box kit which has a spreader bar which spans the joists and spikes that dig into the joists and you tighten it with a crescent wrench , with that kit
You don't have to cut the hole in the ceiling any bigger because you first put the spreader bar in the hole , Rotate the spreader bar until you feel it spanning the joists and tighten it with a crescent wrench , Then put your wires into the box and attach it to the spreader bar , I installed 3 ceiling fans at my brother's house and when I removed the light fixtures , Sure enough , The junction boxes had those side brackets and were nailed to the joist and they were plastic boxes as well, So luckily I was able to remove them and used the ceiling fan junction box kit for each fan which works great , and because of it's design is more than strong enough to support the weight of the fan , Also you'll want to use that kit if you're installing a heavy chandelier as well because chandeliers can be much more heavy than a ceiling fan
Whenever you're checking to make sure the power is off , Always use a regular voltage tester , Never trust a non contact voltage tester because you want to be absolutely sure the power is off when working on a ladder
As mentioned before , The center hole in the fan mounting bracket , Be sure to install a snap in anti short bushing where the wires pass through to prevent severing the wires , Many ceiling fans have this style of mounting bracket and for added safety , use washers on the screws when mounting the fan bracket to keep the heads of the screws from possibly pulling through the bracket because I've noticed how wide those elongated holes are and that's why I use a couple of washers when mounting the bracket
Good idea!
@@Watchyn_Yarwood Thank you , I've installed over 100 ceiling fans and before they came out with the ceiling fan junction box kit , I used to have to go up in the attic and nail a 2 X 4 over the junction box between the joists and screw the box to the 2 X 4 but I don't have to do that anymore with the ceiling fan junction box kit , One thing that makes it great is you don't have to cut the hole for the junction box any bigger and the spreader bar which spans the joists has spikes on the ends which dig into the joists and you just tighten it with a crescent wrench , Always use a couple of washers on the screws when mounting the bracket to the junction box to prevent the screws from possibly pulling through the bracket and the center hole on the bracket where the wires pass through , Install a snap in anti short bushing in the center hole to prevent sharp edges from severing the wires
more clearly: you have to use a box that is rated for use with a ceiling fan. they do make rated plastic boxes, though. they also make a box that screws directly to the side of a ceiling joist, which is a lot easier than the retrofit bar hung box; if you're lucky enough to have the fixture box against the ceiling joist.
I added a fan and light without using a wall switch. It works on a remote. So easy for me and useful for my wife 😊
Oh yeah. Makes it really nice. I added a smart switch for the fan so I can control it with my phone and set schedules for it to automatically turn in at the same time each night and off in the morning. It’s great. Thanks Clarence!
Nice video. I really would have liked to have seen the proper way to balance the fan blades. I also don't trust preexisting wiring so I would have tested to make sure none of the wires were energized, not just the two the should be hot.
I once replaced a fan that was separate switches for fan and light... But when I opened up the ceiling box, there was only a Black and white.... They used the ground as the other switch leg....
Thank you for the video.
thank you so much for this video
I installed a similar fan using the exisiting wall light switch and fan switch and wiring to to the ceiling box and have noticed that when I have the fan running and the lights off (LED), the lights have a very, very faint glow when the room is dark. I know LEDs respond to far lower voltage than incandecent bulbs, but I find this odd. Should I be concerned about the light switch in the wall?
Thanks for this great video!
As others have noted, that box may not be rated to support a fan. I would unscrew it from the hangar or joist and check out the support. It it's on a joist no problem - just get a fan box and screw it in. If it's one of the usual cheap hangars that can be replaced by one that you insert in the joist bay through the hole and turn to tighten. Thx.
It may not be right but the 5/8 ceiling drywall will hold it up lol, as long as it’s screwed tight to the ceiling joists & you have the fan tight not vibrating. Obviously not something I recommend but you’d be surprised how many I’ve found hung like that in old places
Great video really informative
That is all fine and good until you deal with a remote transceiver. The hole in the top of the bracket is often not large enough to facilitate up to 11 wires through it: 2 hots, a neutral and a ground, 5 wires on the remote and 2 grounds from the fan.
Great information and well done job
Thanks for this video. It is just in time because I will be having a celling fan reinstalled. I will make sure that the ones who install it will not make the common mistake.
You are very welcome! Really glad to hear you liked it. Thanks a lot for the feedback!
Thank you for this video. I don’t see any links in your description for the bracket you are using to attach the fan to the ceiling box. Also, do you have any videos about adding a wall switch for a fan. My porch only has a light switch and I want to install both. Thank you!😊
That bracket came with the fan. I do not have a video on that unfortunately but the easiest way to do it would be to get some 12/3 or 14/3 wire, whichever size you need for the circuit and run that new wiring from the light box and the switch box replacing the old wiring. Then you would have the black, red, white, and bare wires. Many times people can use the old wire to pull the new wire to where it needs to be but of course results may vary.
they make fans that have remotes, either handheld or wall switch replacement. if you're putting a fan on your porch, be aware that some manufacturers make outdoor rated fans - and that will hold up better anywhere but a desert.
Many wall controls with handheld remotes only use the black hot, and white neutral from wall switch to the fan. The receiver at the fan canopy decodes the radio signal sent to it to control the light, on/off, dimmer and fan on/off speeds. Use the pullchains to set the motor on high and the light to on. I usually shorten the pull chains so people don't pull them once set. A fan pullchain on slow speed will not go any faster using the wall control or handheld remote, and will most likely make the motor hum or growl.
In bedrooms, I put the light on the wall switch and the fan on a pull cord. If we need to get up in the night and turn on the light, it is easy to find the switch.
That hook is a lifesaver!
Did three fans for my ex. Had remotes and so little room to slide sending unit into the top and get all the wires up in box . Those connectors look nice I’ll have to try them over nuts
The fact that there is actually a box in there is amazing as I’m literally replacing the one in my rental due to the landlord just handing that bar from the joist itself with no box
Typical with knob and tube wiring in ceilings and wall lights.
Another great video! I installed 2 Hunter remote ceiling fans where just light fixtures used to be, except the wires coming from my ceilings were just a black and a white, no ground or red (1 wall switch not 2 like you show). The wires are coming through conduit if that makes a difference? The problem is, both fans make a humming sound. They are wired per the instructions but for the life of me I can't find the source of the humming. Thank you!
did the remote come with the fans? some hunter fans are picky about what type of speed control they run on, and will hum if the wrong speed control is used.
@@kenbrown2808 The remote came with the fans. I have tried all 4 speeds including reverse mode. This is the most confusing thing. I have installed several fans and no noise until I went remote.
@@jazzman9469 sounds like Hunter is starting to cut corners.
It's possible the blades need to be tightened, and if that doesn't work, balance the fan blades.
If the fan has pull chains turn the light switch on at the fan then use the pull chain for the fan motor to set the speed on high. Of course for the remote control on the wall switch do the same. Now that it is operating correctly there will be no hum and to make sure none of your company or guests inadvertently pull a pull chain on the fan shorten both pull chains higher than most people can reach.
Question. The ceiling fan I have, the wire connection plug burnt. I plan on purchasing the wago 221-2401, cutting the 9 circuit terminal socket and connecting each wire with the wago connectors. The wires on the Hampton bay ceiling fan and light kit all have 18awg written on them. Do I have to use that gauge or can I use 16 awg if I need more wiring to make the connections longer?
I leave my wire connections out but I don't dent the metal with a power screwdriver.
Oh no, the decorative metal shroud has a slight bend in it that nobody will ever notice. That is definitely as dangerous as leaving the wiring out of the ceiling box 😂
Never trust turning off the wall switch alone. Always turn off the breaker and check for hot wires.
It's ok as long as there's nobody else in the house to turn the switch on while you are still working on the fan.
@@willschultz5452 not ok, sometimes the hot wire runs to the ceiling box first, then 2 wires run down to the light switch.
@@Mytube5202 still wouldn't matter, you are only disconnecting the side of the switch that connects to the fan. That one is off with the switch.
I have two switches and a red wire. the second switch has separate lights in the ceiling. Once installed everything works from the same switch whether i put black and blue or red and blue. the other light switch does nothing. Any ideas ? 💡 🙏🏽
Very nice explanation
I have lived in San Diego for over 50 years. All the houses built in the last 30 years track or custom all have blue plastic boxes. What do we do differently in this case?
great video thanks
The canopy of the fixture is an extension of the box , and the connections can reside outside the box as long as they are contained in the canopy
No it isn’t. That is not an approved box.
Absolutely. Box fill would have to be taken into consideration in certain applications, but to get around that you could just do a rough calculation of the canopy volume, label it inside with a sharpie, and dare someone to find code that says otherwise. . .
Anyone that says you can’t is just trying to argue based on technicalities. At the end of the day it is a grounded metal enclosure. There is zero practical reason that the canopy isn’t just as safe as a junction box. I could even argue that it is safer considering the potential for falling sparks and the proximity to the drywall’s paper backing.
I wish you would have mentioned something about the added weight of the fan and how to secure it to more than just the junction box.
Very important
I replaced a kitchen light with a fan MANY years ago and mine didn't have that handy area below the box to deal with the wires. It ALSO didn't have that hanger, and let me tell you, it's a PAIN to hold a fan while wiring it up! And no WAGO either.... it's just so much easier nowadays.
It is a lot easier now most of the time! I remember having to do that as well. Appreciate the feedback!
Question. Will the 4" work box in the ceiling hold the weight of the fan/light combo? Or do you need to put in a rafter bracket in the ceiling?
Mine will because they are all ceiling fan boxes with a support connecting two joists or rafters together. A standard nail in box is not recommended but plenty of people use them and they are fine. But a ceiling fan box would be best.
@@HowToHomeDIY Not picking on you. I have saved most of your videos because of the great information. Especially the transfer switching and AC cleaning. Great content. Take care Bro.
@josephreisinger33 Oh yeah I was just answering the question. Really appreciate the feedback Joseph!
My question too. The security of the box should be verified before attempting anything else. Only if you are replacing an old cealing fan with a new one should you go straight to instlation. Even then, I would check for box security. If replacing a light fixture, always check box security...
What make and model was that fan?
love your channel !!!!
Really glad to hear you’re finding value in the channel! Thanks a lot for the feedback Greg!
Thanks!
You are very welcome! Really glad you liked it! Thanks a lot for the feedback and the Super Thanks! It is very much appreciated!
In older homes the metal boxes used to be nailed up with roofing nails. I have always run some deck screws through the box for added security when asked to install a ceiling fan. Just my 2 cents.
I used lag bolts into a joist on an old house.
I have an older home and noticed that the electrical boxes are the pancake type. I am not able to push the wires up into the box. What would I do with the wires in this case ?
my issue: room has two switches (fan and light), installer put ceiling fan that has only ONE wire for light and fan since model is designed to control by wireless remote. Is there a way to mod the fan to split the wiring inside so fan and light are separate control?
Not to use by choice. The light will not operate like you want. The wall switch might be able to control the light but if it's off, the remote can't turn it on. Many manufacturers have a "one space" wall control using the black and white wires for both the fan and light dimmer. The handheld remote works with the wall control flawlessly, simply code the dip switch code the same for all three modules.
Great video
GREAT Video
If you don’t have a red wire does that mean you can only have the fan working when the light is also on?
Mine has a remote control but I’m not sure how the wall switch interacts with the remote.
Sometimes it’s not possible to do it, like when the box is too thin. In this case, if it’s a hugger, use lots of zip ties to ensure that the wire would never scrape the motor.
Would it make sense to use electrical tape over the wago's as an extra layer of protection to keep the lever from flipping when you push it back into place?
Yes, in fact I’ve seen a lot of people recommend this
The same Nazis that say you have to push the splices back into the junction box would argue that the Wago’s weren’t tested with electrical tape wrapped around them, so it would be against the rules. I say, whatever floats your boat.
How about if you have a switch for a socket but not a overhead light. How would you go about adding one of those.
How about instructions for wiring a dual switch to a remote receiver?
One hudge important thing, can that box support the weight of a celing fan? Thats a valid question
Most people overlook.
Yes it could support a light but the light only weights 15 lbs at most. Whats the celing fan weight?
65 lbs
I always wondered why no one wraps the connector with a layer of electric tape to ensure the levers don't flip up. Is there a reason?
You certainly can. But if you’re just careful when placing them then there should not be an issue.
Is that electrical box rated to hold the weight of the fan?
It is.
I started not to watch your video because I have no interest in installing a ceiling fan. Then I thought I may learn something new. I’m glad because now I know why one switch turn on my light only.
I have never seen a lamp/fan mount like that. They have never been that easy. Usually you have to use one arm to hold the lamp, the other arm to connect the wires and the other arm to screw in the mounting bolts and the other arm . . .
Yup, these have come a long way. That was always a pain in the rear!
I have never seen a fan that didn't have some way to support the weight of the motor while connecting the wiring. lights, yeah, you kind of have to hold them by the load wires while connecting the ground, and make the ground short enough to hang the light from it while connecting the load wiring. but they are usually lighter.
In that case of no hook, I use an old fashioned electricians helper, also known as a wire hanger. I cut the hook off, attach it to the mounting bracket and the other end to the fan (usually through the hole that the screws go through. Then when wiring is complete and inserted in the box, I remove the wire hanger and complete the fan installation. Been doing this since I was my father’s helper and when installing fans my wife picks out that invariably don’t have the hook!
@@kenbrown2808 I installed may without a hook back in the day. Fortunately, they apparently come with hooks standard today. They were pretty easy to install back then for the four armed people, but not for regular two armed folks.
@@ST-0311 yeah, I've only been hanging them since the 90s. but I've seen some antiques, and they're also heavy
Where did you get that ceiling fan mounting bracket from?
It came with the fan.
I am doing the opposite, replacing a fan / light combo on a dual dimmer switch with just a light. So the light has only black white and ground and the ceiling box has the blue black red and ground. What would I do with that extra wire? Just cap it? Or disconnect the extra wire from the dimmer? Thanks.
Great videos
If you're shoving the wagos back into the box, could you wrap them in electrical tape first so they can't come undone?
Yeah you could.
Do you know the one thing you didn’t address if there’s just a plastic box in the ceiling you’re gonna have to replace it with a fan rated box
im anelectricin and installed 2 fans, i hooked them up so the switches control the fan and light, i live in a mobile home,so my panel is not bonded, but each fan only lasted a few dys to 1 week and then both quit working,i wonder why, could it have something to do with the ground not being bonded
Given that you were replacing a light fixture, why were there 2 hot wires coming from the box with 2 switches? What was the 2nd one for?
I was wondering that too… maybe there used to be a ceiling fan there and it was replaced at some point with just a light?
Hi there I’m trying to get my ceiling fan up down lights from a switch source but I got confused because I have two cables for lights and don’t know where to connect the other light in just only in one switch Any help please 🙏
Need to do a video on balancing a fan now.
If a fan needs to be balanced.... buy a new fan.
Smart switches? Hugh, why not have bluetooth in these modern stealth blade ceiling fans. Just a small app to control everything. Get info about revolutions (RPM) and power usage. Even a thermostat that kicks in if temperature rises. Be aware that ceiling fans are not an airco. So they blow room temperature air around. Only your skin evaporates sweat more easily (windchill) and that cools down. A lot of second-hand fans are sold, some only as esthetics. They make noise, are a hazard if you stick arms and hands up without remembering it is spinning there. I recommend checking this beforehand, some ceiling fans without lights are better suited.
You forgot to say "make sure it's a fan rated box."
My house is only about 12 years old, and the boxes in the front bedrooms are plastic new work, not metal. But even metal isn't necessarily rated for the weight of a ceiling fan.
Lots of people called out making sure the box is rated for a fan...but I didn't notice anyone mentioning grounding that bracket. Most ceiling fans come with a green screw and pigtails to ground the mounting strap and fixture. Technically you get there if the old box was metal and properly grounded, when the screws bond them together...but there are fan rated plastic boxes out there. The mounting hardware needs to be mounted.
When I replaced my ceiling fan it was all 1 switch. I just ran another 12/2 to split the lights and fan... Wish I'd have had a roll of 12/3
Wrap some tape around the WAGO connectors to keep them from coming up?
You could.
Mounts the fan motor with one hand.. My ceiling fans weigh about 30 lbs each.
Hey how do you know the box in the ceiling will hold up a spinning fan?
Check to see if it’s a fan rated box is the safest way. There will be a bar connecting it to a couple of joists. In the attic. Or the box may be directly mounted to a joist. All I’ll say is this and this is not me suggesting not to use a fan rated box, just stating history and that’s that it was only just fairly recently where having a fan rated box is required for all fan installs. It used to only be required for fans weighing more than 35 pounds. Usually the rules change when there are a few cases of the previous rules not being totally sufficient. Every case is different.
Question, how is the box mounted in the ceiling?
To rafters.
I'll be having two ceiling fans on one wall switch, so it's chain switches for me. The box in my kitchen is too full to stuff the wires into, and the one in my living room is a pancake box (both boxes were properly mounted and installed by electricians), so the wires will have to stay in the bracket. BUT....those are cool wire connectors, so I'm gonna check those out.
Two questions though: 1) if I need to strip a wire, what size hole on the stripper do I use to do this with? I haven't bought one yet, but it will be a USA-made Klein stripper. I just have the standard black, white, and copper ground. 2) In my kitchen box there is two copper ground wires nutted together (I assume one comes from the wiring, and one comes from the box that was installed). Do I just put the ground wire from the fan with those two ground wires?
For context, the ceiling fan boxes were installed when I had my ceiling rebuilt with new framing, insulation, and sheetrock, and there were two switch panels on the wall, one on top of the other, with the power switch being the lower switch. The switch above it controlled which light was on between the light in the kitchen and the light in the living room (yes, it was a cheap, shitty setup installed by the house flipper who "remodeled" this single-wide). The electrician and I spoke about it and agreed to just bypass that switch for constant "on" with both boxes. So he wired them together and mounted a blank plate over the wall box. Now I have just one switch with the main power to both ceiling boxes, and then my porch light in the same wall box with its own switch.
I hope this isn't too confusing. And no, nothing about this house is up to code. Hopefully I'll be out of here in a few years with a better job somewhere else. In the meantime however I want ceiling fans. Thanks!
Pushing the wires back up on top of the bracket -- that's what the hook is for. Hang the fan by the hook, push the fan's wires through the hole, and make the connection in the box. This saves not having to worry about tripping the levers when pushing the Wagos back through the hole.
It wouldn’t be as big of a deal on downrod ceiling fans, but yes there had been times where wires scrape a motor on huggers.
thats why I ziptie the wires to the mounting bracket, stuff the wire nuts under the bracket. really irritating to get fan all installed, 2 days later get call back there's tapping noise from ceiling fan
@@harveylong5878 Yeah. Some boxes are too thin to put wires in. There was a time someone replaced three Modern Fan Co. Cirrus with Home Decorators Collection Merwry and they had to replace the boxes because the canopies are apparently too small to have both a receiver and wire nuts.
Nice
How have i never heard of an online Wago connector?? So much easier and smaller than a wire nut, which would've been great because the ceiling wires are short.
How do you know if the cueling can hold the weight before you install your fan. I live in a older tailer. That's my main concern the fan falling
😢ceiling fan
Want to make sure that it is a fan rated box, oftentimes made of metal. They can either be fastened directly to the framing or will have metal bars that span from one ceiling joist to another. If it’s a plastic box I would definitely look harder at it to make sure it’s fan rated. There are some plastic boxes that are fan rated but are a pretty hard plastic and have deep threaded larger screws than normal fixture boxes. Some will even say fan rated.
I install the same fan, the only problem. What's that after runs about? An hour starts a grinding noise. Any suggestions.
Hmm, have a good general contractor on speed dial for when the fan rips out of the ceiling because there isn't an appropriate fan rated braced box!
Ya… make your u have a ceiling fan box installed in the ceiling instead of a regular light box. They always have a #10 screw & are usually rated to support at least 50-65 lbs
not at our complex. 50 year old bakelight boxes. theyve been mounting ceiling fans to those POS's for the last 30 years. most hold up just fine, its the ones mounted with drywall nails that end coming loose making fan wobble