Additional Notes from Commenters 1. Romex should not be run through a plenum 2. The box used should be able to hold a fan even if you aren't installing a fan originally. This would be a better old work box geni.us/eVaL9 Klein Voltage Tester: geni.us/h9Hl Fish Tape (50 foot): geni.us/uPze Klein Voltage Tester: geni.us/h9Hl Klein Outlet Tester: geni.us/kdBAJ Klein Tools Multimeter: geni.us/CKMI3nP Studbuddy Stud Finder: geni.us/RySCuVw Wire Strippers: geni.us/MdOB Makita Cordless Drill Combo Kit: geni.us/t7dIA Tools Every Weekend Warrior Needs Dewalt Drill Bit Set: geni.us/oFlSl Dewalt Screwdriver Bit Set: geni.us/VDcr Craftsman Screwdriver Set: geni.us/jXqFI Eklind Allen Wrench Set: geni.us/7XfvO Pliers (4-Piece Set): geni.us/RIdx Stanley Utility Knife: geni.us/ndIDa Stanley Tape Measure: geni.us/bUfD1R Johnson Torpedo Level: geni.us/wiLcDY Stanley Hammer: geni.us/bPDk8Wo Buck Bros Wood Chisel Set: geni.us/vk3cpTW Little Giant Ladder: geni.us/fmlmTk DISCLAIMER: This video and description contain affiliate links, which means that if you click on one of the product links, I’ll receive a small commission.
Since we're talking about fans, I always run 14/3 or 12/3 to ceiling boxes. Two reasons: the first is that if someone does put up a fan, you'll have separate fan and light controls if the customer doesn't want a remote. The other reason is that if the homeowner wants additional lights, you don't have to run a new line from the switch. Particularly with recessed lights: having multiple areas of light staging can be nice. Pro tip: if it's a serious rehab, put 3-ways beside the bed so you can walk into the room, get in bed and turn off the light without having to go back in forth to turn on a lamp of something. In addition, you can control the fan speed if you're too cold or hot during the night.
My tip; when cutting out the wall sheetrock next to the ceiling you went ALL THE WAY to the ceiling. By doing this, you have to mud the corner INTO the ceiling too. To keep mud out of the ceiling and corner, and then having mud on the ceiling too, you know the top plate is 3 inches wide. Only cut the wall sheetrock 3/4 of an inch above the bottom of the top plate. That gives you the wood to mount the sheetrock and room for the wall mud only without having to mud a corner into the ceiling.
@JQUICK21 The top plate is 2, 2x4s = 3 inches, from the bottom of the ceiling joist to the top of the wall stud. It's the very top of the wall construction that connects the wall stud to the ceiling joist.
@@jltaco85 It seems you are "trolling" this for some reason. The word in not misspelled, so if you really don't know what a ceiling is, I can't help you. Google it.
Hey brother, I have seen several of your videos and you do good work. Three things for your viewers: I am an electrical guy. I believe the 2020 code requires electric ceiling boxes be able to support fans with a few exceptions. Several have asked....they make those bar/box kits for ceiling fans. The easy rule of thumb with neutrals in switchboxes is, yes!, A neutral in each switch box. There are exceptions and the conduit run should make this job exempt. This is so automatic lights have a current return path that is not a ground. And not mentioned is a ground in the switch box. Yes the conduit should count, but the easy rule of thumb is to run one. Keep up the good work and if anyone needs a reference, I can get my book out for the specific numbers or provide proof that I do not know everything. Thanks
Oh, third.... In metal boxes, two or three wraps around the switch or recepticle may prevent the hot terminals from touching ground. An annoyance and a scare but not an nec requirement.
Just wanted to say thank you 😊 huge help and great tips for me to self install a new ceiling light and connect it to the light switch in my dad’s office. I’m not tool illiterate or don’t have any handy man skills but I’m always super hesitant when it comes to working with anything electrical. I followed your advice and instructions and was able to complete it all by myself! Woot woot!! My dad is 75 and an amputee so we moved in with him and my mom two years ago to help out caring for him and their home. Any project that I or my husband can do ourselves is an huge help too since they’re both retired on a fixed income. I subscribed and plan on using more videos in the near future to help with fixing, updating and upgrading their home with making it easier and more accessible for my dad 💜🖤
Happy to help, I do recommend using an old work box that could take a fan load amzn.to/35n6ph9. Also Romex should not go through a plenum like I did in the video. Best of luck on your project!
@@EverydayHomeRepairs thanks for the reply. Im not running a ceiling light. Im installing the ceiling Sonos sound system and needed to run power up the the ceilings.
Man ..... Exactly the same situation .. !!!!! . I do have an attic .. but at the corner I need the connection it will be never reachable on the attic . !!!!! ... Yeah . !!!!!
Been in the same house for 30 years and always wanted to do this. Its hard when living on a budget and not wanting to mortgage my home so i do most things on my own. This is going to help. Thanks.
If you have attic access this video might be even better. Total cost for materials was $200 and it made a MASSIVE difference ruclips.net/video/KgChTKOaNsA/видео.html . Best of luck on the project
Tip: To avoid the nail/screw pops that you made when you first hit the hole saw into the ceiling, either drill with a paddle bit for a starter hole or use an oscillating saw to make your cut.
And checking if the wall cavities are insulated helps too. And what kind of insulation you are using. Expanding foam makes it more difficult fishing those cables
Nail pops indicate the drywall was falling/nails were pulling out. It is good that he discovered this since the drywall will be carrying the weight of the ceiling fixture. He can zip screws in along side the popped nails. A bit of extra drywall repair to do, but not really that much.
@JQUICK21 A nail pop is a small, circular area that appears on drywall when a nail pulls away from the wall, pushing through the paint and drywall, this is caused by expansion a contraction of the wood its, screwed into. Nail pops can look like cracked circles or blisters on the wall. With drywall screws, the compound can loosen from the filled void and fall out, exposing the black screw head of the screw(s). This is also caused by expansion and contraction of the wood which loosens the compound above the screw, as well as possibly poor installation of the joint compound.
Frank Drebin, I was just thinking the same thing. He has it easy with this lay out. Did he drill through the double top plate? I missed that if he did. I would’ve also gone from the switch and just rewire the one outlet.
@@robertkachadoorian5926 normally you use 14 awg for lighting but larger wire can be used. In this case it doesn’t matter because you have to go by the existing wire size for the breaker size. But even if it’s a 20 amp circuit you can use 15 amp receptacles because you can’t plug a 20 amp device into it so the device won’t and can’t be overloaded.
As a DIYer myself, I like your laymen speak and how you tackled the project. Well done! I have a ceiling fan project that the wife has bestowed on me - . My outlet and switch situation are similar to yours and thanks for your tips on leveraging the existing switch to control the ceiling fan. My switch is for the wall outlet which I don't need - it's better for my usage to convert the wall outlet to always ON.
Best of luck on the project and since you will be installing a fan make sure you get the bracket that can hold the fan weight and not the smaller Old Work box like I used.
@@EverydayHomeRepairs Yep, got the ones from homedepot that are expandable and get bolted to the joist. The install is on the top floor with access to the joists in the ceiling.
This was EXCELLENT! Thank you for sharing the step-by-step procedures to install power on a limited ceiling access. As a former principal, your “lesson plan” was terrific. Appreciate the info regarding the resources. 👏
That laundry room drop ceiling made it so much easier to run the wiring. It would had sucked if he had to drill a hole through the top plate plus having the ceiling joist running the same way as your wiring installation. Dang i wish half of my jobs were that easy : ) Great video!
For the top plate, if he didn't have that hole he could have used an oscillating tool to cut a notch on the side of the plate, another slight recess for a nail plate, reinstall the piece of drywall which was carefully removed. Patch work is fast and easy after that.
Check your local building codes only because for condos, if multi-floor buildings, you typically cannot just put a hole in the ceiling. It creates a fire hazard because the "firewall" between floors has been compromised. I had this same issue, rewired it myself. I then decided to move and rent the condo. The inspectors made me open a permit and install a fire-retardant "hood" that you pop through the hole. It's a dome you push through the hole and it covers the hole and junction box. It is fireproof or resistant and is allowed by code.
that is a great job by you to show a beginner how to do it but I am amazed by people who know how to do it by watching your video. Anyway thanks for taking the time to produce this video.
Sir, I appreciate the way you do your videos, how you explain things simply and straightforward, without talking down to us or talking over MY head. Mostly, I appreciate how you inspire me to tackle projects that I previously feared. So thanks!
Very detailed instructions, well done! After moving to my new house four years, I searched on RUclips about this multiple times but not convinced that I can do it myself. Electricians will come to my place to help out next week and RUclips recommended this video to me, what a coincidence. I guess I majorly paid for cutting and fixing dry wall.
@@EverydayHomeRepairs Lol, and in popular parlance: Neighborly Google espionage at work. Alternatively, Google spies. Oh wait, I shall be more constructive. For example, I will buy Huawei; expensive Huawei I will buy, cheap Huawei I will buy, slap a Huawei logo on a dead fish, I am still buying. Take my money so that one day it'll grow a spine, some legs, and a couple of fists for China.
Only thing I'd recommend would be if you're going through the trouble of using twist caps, use your pliers to twist them first then put the cap on top. I've removed twist caps for Wago's in my home but in doing so, I've developed a respect for how well pretwisted connections work.
Technically not necessary as wire nuts twist and bite into the wires but I agree that pretwisting is best. Exception would be stranded to solid, let the nut do the work on those.
Thanks for the video. I need to do something similar except the light will be outside on my shed. Every other video in my search just shows how to replace an existing light fixture, which I already know how to do.Many thanks!
You can also cut only 3 sides of the drywall and insert the saw at a 45 degree angle then snap the uncut 4th side to act as hinges. This was you can simply fold it back and just apply mud inside and out. The reason for no taping is because of the 45 degree cut.
That is what I call a "Pro Tip." Thanks and that is a great idea. I am sure it takes a bit to get the technique down but would save a ton of time. Maybe a future video 😉
As a remodeler, I always install ceiling boxes to hold the weight of a fan, because inevitably...someday someone will try to hang on from it. Good technique though.
Great video. Did the same thing a couple years ago. Tip- cut the drywall very carefully using a razor and use the same piece you cut out, to put back in.
And angle to blade a bit toward the center of the piece you are removing so it can't wobble or fall into the wall cavity when cutting openings between studs
Depends on the project. One hole, go for it. Dulls the blade quickly. Multiple holes... far quicker to punch out or saw out and then just cut a new piece from a sheet of drywall. Personally I like to punch it out with a hammer then square it out later or just use a rotary saw from the getgo. Either way cut a new piece, use some firring strips and screw and mud in the new piece. Done.
Blown insulation sucks when installing recessed lights, you have to make sure it's cleared away before you start cutting holes in the ceiling. Another tip is to buy 6" lights instead of 4", they give better coverage and the larger hole allows you to use both hands.
YOU EARNED A NEW SUBSCRIBER. JUST FOR SHOW ME HOW TO DIG INTO THE WALL. I NEED TO TAP INTO AN EXISTING OUTLET TO ADD ANOTHER OUTLET TO THE MIDDLE OF THE WALL FOR TV WALL MOUNT.
Using a multi tool/ oscillating tool to cut your drywall is a good option as well. As in the fish tape...that works fine if you don't have installation in the way. If you do, a rod style may work better.
I didn’t know about the isolation tab on the outlet before. Nice tip. One of the things that has bothered me for decades is the practice of not having a ceiling light wired to a switch and instead having it wired to the outlets. That has always been a WTF!?! thing for me. I mean if switchable outlets is something you might think someone would want than do that, but there needs to be at least one light fixture in the ceiling, with the switch by the door.
@@willschultz5452 That’s fine, but again switch for the ceiling light should have been the primary light. If you want that extra switchable outlet then install next to the ceiling light switch
@@mendodsoregonbackroads6632 yes ive seen those before also. The house I grew up in was built in 1961 and had no ceiling lights in any of the 4 bedrooms, or the family room or the living room. They were all a switch that worked a receptacle. The only place that had a switchable light was the kitchen, laundry room and the 3 bathrooms. It was very common back then.
Also in some condos they don't install ceiling lights to avoid sound to travel. Sometimes they put the lights on walls too. Sometimes there's a concrete slab between the condos and they don't want to pierce through it to loose the sound isolation.
If you are doing this much work... just go to the switch put in a 2 gang box one for the light and one for a fan or outlets and put in a fan rated box... u have to repair holes might as well do this job once and be done with it
I’m glad I found this. I have a two story condo (no attic) and have considered a ceiling fan so I liked this video just to get an idea of how much drywall damage will occur to help me decide if I wanna have that ceiling fan installed. Side note, the previous owner had a ceiling fan but lost the place in a foreclosure and the bank removed the ceiling fan so not sure if the wiring is there or not.
Make sure your box is supported. They make a box/support kit that fits through a box size hole and braces against the joists. Should be at big box stores or local electric distributer.
@@chuckwyble7719 that's what I Do. Even though I'm 99% sure I won't need it it'll be that one time I'm like damn wish I had that string to pull past these damn wires!
Thanks! This was really helpful. I’m still struggling a bit because I want to do what you just did in this video but also add a 3-way switch into the equation, so having 2 switches that control the new installed light while leaving the power outlets always hot
Just added four Canless Lights to a room. Installed them with new wiring and connecting to an existing wall switch. Used 6 3/8” hole saw (took 25 to 30 seconds to cut each hole). City inspector signed off and good to go with drywalling the ceiling. Your vid provided some tips for the “next” time. Thanks for sharing.
Watching these videos makes me want to start making videos to show people the right way in doing things clean and not doing things like a typical hack job
Those nail pops are exactly why I always use screws when installing drywall they pretty much completely eliminate that issue when the screws are properly driven.
I have heard that when drywall is installed at a contract level which means fast paced, installers use nails and glue to adhere the drywall since this makes it faster and easier handling of the sheet. I would use screws myself since I normally do small repairs and I am not too concerned about the time. Nice video by the way
Thank you for wrapping the wires around the screws instead of just pressing them into the backs of the outlets. That’s the best way to do it. I wish the people who wired my house had done that.
Nice work. I'm making a video installing 6 recessed can lights in a basement. I like you approach in your wiring technique. I use a multi-tool with a drywall blade. Makes a nice clean hole. I'm lucky though. I have access to the ceiling thru the closet under the stairs. Very professional and you explained on detail what you were doing. I'm just getting ideas how to do my video. Thank you and keep up the good work
I would suggest cutting the access hole smaller and away from the roof/wall joint. Smaller hole mean less drywall to patch (you can patch the drywall away from the studs as long as you use backing wood on two seams. Lower to avoid having to retape the roof/wall joint thereby avoiding mud work on the ceiling.
7:28 If you are going around the stud with a wire, make sure you’re not going between the studs and drywall. If you must notch the stud for wire, be SURE to use a nail plate to prevent potential screws or anything else from damaging the wire.
I've, unfortunately, had to use a strike plate before. It's a last resort :/ I don't like notching but it was a fucked up wiring to begin with. Fixed what I could and made it cleaner and safer... but I didn't like that I had to notch it. Ironically enough I found out they had run another wire from far away through all the studs to a completely different room. I could have tapped that but had no idea it was there. Meh it works and looked good.
This is exactly the video and example I was looking for, thank you! Would enjoy seeing a follow-up on if you decide to alter the light switch or upgrade switch for additional functionality. Awesome video!
A few important tips: 1. Use a multi tool to cut the Sheetrock instead of a utility knife or keyhole saw. Saves time and easier on the wrists. 2. Do not cut the hole in the Sheetrock over the studs. That way you can reinstall the cutout piece of Sheetrock. Screw in backer boards with course drywall screws to re-secure the cutout Sheetrock. Using the same piece will also assure that the original texture will line up. 3. I would suggest to install a fan box rated at 50lbs instead of a plastic box. There are fan boxes for existing Sheetrocked ceilings. Cut the hole and slip the bracket through the hole. It will clamp to the joists. That way, you have the option of a fan or light. You are not limited to a light.
For the holes I use a 4 1/2” hole saw. To fill it I use a 6” hole saw to cut the plunge. I turn the plugs to the back side. Using the 4 1/2” hole saw I cut the backing paper and drywall- leaving the topping paper uncut. I remove the (donut shape) backing paper and drywall between the 4 1/2” and 6” dia. This gives me a plug with a paper rim. I pot a line of caulking around the edge of the plug and wood glue on the paper and stick it back on. When it drys I skim coat it with 20 minute mud. Then paint.
Not bad, I have seen more and more videos on RUclips using a similar method to patch drywall. I think some guys call it a "California Patch." Thanks for sharing your experience.
It’s funny it’s called California patch as my dad came up with it while we were on a job in the 1980’s. A guy punched holes all over and we had to fix it. Not to say he did not invent what was invented as that happens. Lol I rather call it a Ontario patch lol but OK Great video keep it up
Good job. I have the same issue at home. None of the rooms have a light and the light switch controls an outlet. To me that's the stupidest most pointless thing ever; why would anyone want to build a house like that? Thank you for the video, watching it is the first step in trying to do something about it.
I think the outlets are used to power lamps and using the wall switches as on and off Instead of using the on and off switch on the lamp itself. Back in the days style.
What did you screw the Junction box to ... the floor above? I have a electrical outlet that floats in the wall not even an inch next to a joist ... my goodness that attachment would have saved me hours of repair. Thank you for your time and efforts
Hey Randi, the box I installed is simply holding on the back of the drywall and not meant for holding much weight (especially not a fan). This is a better option for old work jobs to ensure a sturdy box for a light and/or fan. amzn.to/3nityIu
They make metal brackets sometimes called pie brackets (because the look like the symbol for pie) to support such an outlet or switch box , also this is a ceiling box that passes code www.homedepot.com/p/Commercial-Electric-12-cu-in-Plastic-NM-Fan-Box-with-Plastic-Cover-CPB13NM-SM/205383211
As always, a great video, you are a great teacher! As far as converting the outlets to always on, can’t you just disconnect the switch, and connect the switched wires together, adding a jumper to the switch, then use the switch for the light? I can see the value in simplifying by removing extra wires, but they are there, and safe. Am I missing something?
You could absolutely do that. It would certainly save you a lot of time. -the disadvantage is that a future electrician might find it confusing as to why there were 2 hots and wonder whether it's a shared neutral circuit. That said, making that assumption without checking at the switch to see if the receptacle was once switched is not too bright. Personally, I would have left the old switched wires in place in case someone wanted to change it in the future.
Great video. I have a bedroom with no ceiling light and 1 switched outlet. I've often thought of installing a ceiling light in that bedroom. Luckily, I have attic access. Can you point me to a site that has diagrams showing how, exactly, I can install a ceiling light, as well as changing that 1 outlet from switched to powered all the time? Thanks.
Two things I would do differently here. 1) Twist the wires together with lineman pliers and snip them flush before applying the wire nut. The connection will be better and more secure. 2) Definitely no need to cut the drywall all the way into the corner like that. It's much easier to patch if you leave the corners undisturbed. Could have left 2" or so of drywall out from each corner and just had a flat patch.
@@Dontcare523 "Need" to, no. You can carelessly stuff the wires in and it will usually still work. But any good electrician will tell you it makes a better connection if you twist the wires together. Won't loosen or come apart as you stuff it into the box, less likely to be a problem later. It's what lineman pliers are designed for.
Thanks for doing this video. This is exactly what i was looking for. In my case I have a concrete ceiling, how would you deal with getting wire to the center and interfacing the wall and ceiling when it comes to the wire?
Also, regarding pulling the extra wire out. Personally I would have tagged them with a flag of electrical tape and wrote on them "Old 1/2 hot SL" (old half hot switch leg). It's always best to leave extra conductors in place if they are not damaged (for future use). They could have been used for some other project such as adding wall sconces or repairing a damaged wire burnt up at one of the receptacles.
So very simple . and that's exactly what I need to do . .. !!!!! the rest ( the moving the yellow cords away ) . was for me a little confused, but since I don't need to work on removing anything . !!!! the beginning is just what I need .. amazing job .. Thanks . !!!!
Great, best of luck on the project. Also checked the top (pinned) comment for a few notes I learned from all the commenters since the video was published.
Bummer for the nail pops at 5:15. You only have that happen a time or two before "slow and easy" becomes the only way to make a new opening in existing drywall. I was a working electrician for over a decade, doing lots of service & side work, and never knew in the beginning I'd also become a drywall repair expert. ;)
Great video to teach a beginner how to add a light the only thing I would change is I would cut a much smaller hole in the left stud space a couple inches lower so you don’t have to patch a corner and you can use that smaller hole to fish the wire into the right stud space
Good video. My tip would be to leave much more wire at every location. It drives me crazy when I open up a box and only find about 3" of wire. Very difficult to work with.
Man, I used to keep my drywall holes small, but honestly, patching a large hole vs small holes is the same amount of work. Drywall is cheap and large openings speed up work.
plus, if the hole is large enough, a "nailer" can be inserted behind the impending joints to screw both parts of the sheetrock (drywall) to make for a better "new" section of wall. also, if you are able to cut the hole over existing framing members with an oscillating saw, the entire existing piece can be reinstalled, eliminating the need for a lumber yard trip, except for the joint compound.
This video address one of my next home repair. Your videos are great and easy to follow along. I did subscribed to your channel after watching this video
This was a great lesson on showing viewers that you don't have to be an expert electrician to do simple electrical installs. Curious about why you used 12 AWG Romex. Usually this circuit would be on a 15a breaker and AWG 14 would surface (and a lot easier to work with). You also installed new outlets, why not just add a jumper to the existing ones? I would have moved the light box up against the ceiling joist and installed a fan bracket to allow for a ceiling fan (maybe in the future) and light; this would also require running a three conductor Romex (black, red, white) to the ceiling from the switch. Are you in the US? I've never seen yellow wire used in lighting installs.
Hi David, I had extra 12-2 from another project if I was buying wire specifically for this I would probably grab some 14-3 Romex. Agree with adding a fan bracket and others have mentioned specifically this one amzn.to/2W0rDfY . Yeah, this condo is in the Midwest but the wiring seems to be more along the lines of a commercial as opposed to residential install since they used conduit throughout the unit. Appreciate your feedback 👍
@@EverydayHomeRepairs I used this saddle style box that saddle mounts to a joist (and TJI). It leaves less space to work a fish, but still doable in most installations. "RACO 1-Gang Black Plastic New Work Standard Saddle Boxes Ceiling Electrical Box". Found it at Ace Hardware and Lowes. Supposedly can support a ceiling fan too. I could not use the fan bracket since there was duct work in the center of the room and I did not want to move too far off that line, but the adjacent joist was still somewhat centered. Thanks for your videos!
@@eddie3721 sir, I am an electrical guy and do not believe the use of 12-2 in this case is a code violation. The circuit breaker should protect the lowest rated part of the circuit...the 15a recepticles and 14-2. The larger wire should not violate anything, but if you have a code section. I will be happy to stand corrected.
This video was great learned a ton but could you also make a video of how to do a similar dry wall repair to that one so close to the ceiling like that.
he is not a drywaller. This is where you get a drywall guy to patch things up for you or if you want to do it yourself, youtube "how to drywall repair" as this dude is obviously just an electrician
I've learned so much from all your videos, but I have one question on this one - why didn't you run the new wiring for the light straight to the switch? The outlets power still goes to the switch which power the light correct, and with the yellows removed on the new outlets they are full power all the time correct? Or is that one of the Wrong way to do it? LOL I thought it would be less wire and less mess in the outlet box - if this wouldn't work or cause a short please let me know. Thanks again for all the instructions.
Excellent video, so clear and concise makes the job look a lot less intimidating. Can't wait to add a ceiling fan to my switch instead of the stupid ceiling fan running to a switched outlet like it is now.
Code states 6" min of wire sticking out of the box for the fixture. Your are the one the I fuss about whenever I come back in behind you to fix the light with a loose wirenut.
Thinking the same. I appreciate showing people how to DIY. But if you don’t have all the stuff down, that’s the reason people mess stuff up. Also, did you see him loop the ground? I didn’t. Maybe I missed it or didn’t show but I didn’t see it.
I wonder if he pulled an electrical permit? Lol I’m not sure how code works where he’s from but here in Canada... when only having a hot and SL in a box was still legal... you could carry power to the switch on your white conductor..but your SL back HAD to be the black. And why did he run 12/2? Here 14/2 would suffice.
@@jimmymcintyre4889 Its a condo and technically a commercial installation. In many states, you must be a certified electrician to do the work which precludes a homeowner from DIY. Also commercial properties require upgraded wiring, usually one AWG larger.
I got a suggestion. As an HVAC tech we’re always pulling new wires for various things. At the top of the wall I suggest cut the wall to accommodate a HVAC 6” x 14” return air grill instead of messing up the wall, patching and mudding and painting is eliminated. Of course you have to sell the idea of an extra grill to the customer. Can also be used on a ceiling, which ever is Preffered.
@@jthonn Good point! It's also a good idea to double check with a non-contact voltage tester to make sure it's off. I don't like making assumptions with power.
Thanks for the excellent video. I am dealing with a similar situation in my home but I am installing a ceiling fan with a light. I will have a remote control for the fan and light. Should I have 2 switches on the wall? Thanks
I am not a huge fan of the remotes as they definitely just add another point of failure. If you do a remote then 1 light switch would be fine since you can turn the light on/off and fan on/off separately from the remote. Don't forget to use a different electrical box as compared to what I used in the video especially to support the weight from the fan. This is what I recommend amzn.to/2W0rDfY
Im not an electrician just a DIYer but I would of ran your new wire from your wall switch, not the outlet. Then at the switch you can wire your outlet hot all the time.
@@JS-zj9fx yes. But he still could have taken his wire to the switch. Discarded old wiring (cap and label) and put on plugs without the tab broken lol.
This was a very interesting installation. I really like how you were able to fish wire with minimal drywall damage. I did see two things that concerned me. The first is that the box you used for the ceiling is not ceiling rated. If you look at the UL listing for that box it specifically says that it is designed for wall and not for ceilings. The second thing is that if that wall cavity you ran the romex in is an air plenum, then this is actually a very dangerous installation because the romex is not plenum rated. If there is a fire, then the romex will produce a poisonous gas that would spread through the home.
@@EverydayHomeRepairs Another thing is you didn't ground the cross brace that screws to the box that supports the light. Even though the light is grounded, the cross brace needs to be grounded as well. If the box was metal instead of plastic, you wouldn't need to do ground the brace.
@@Bluesman57 it looks like the metal tube make contact with the brace and the metal backing of the light. I'm not sure why it'd matter anyways, that bracket isn't accessible and I doubt you'll get a short there and not conduct to the back of the lamp.
I have done this twice in two bedrooms - installed lights and fan combo - no not the crappy kind of fan light combo - crystal and fancy wings open and close -
If he gets the patch nice and tight on the cieling side, he can caulk the cieling angle or any other angle for that mater.. Just make sure you go all the way to the next corner, looks more uniform that way.
Thank you, was thinking the same thing. At least he made nice, square patchable holes. But there was a much more efficient way of removing the drywall (i.e. never needed to expose the top plate). Any electrician that comes onto my job-site and starts bashing the walls with a hammer is asked to leave.
@@johnbeckwith1361 I use the poll of a hatchet or hammer. No chance of hitting a cable and I'll square off the edges and cut new sheet of drywall to match later so who cares? I'm not reusing the same square I just cut anyways. It's just drywall.
I thought he did a very good job explaining his planning and thought process. I'm in the exact situation. My problem is I have a popcorn ceiling....so,...he has given me an idea how to do this w/out jacking up the ceiling.
Agree that cutting the drywall lower would have been a smarter move. The closet wouldn't have worked because it actually has a drop in the ceiling that would have made fishing the wire through a bit harder. Thanks for the feedback.
Running wire in a cold air return some/most codes require plenum wiring. And 12/2 for a light is not needed, 14/2 is good enough. The technique for fishing across a ceiling was spot on, if you don't have access to the back side of your wall then you need to cut a longer hole in the side wall enough to get a drill in to and drill a hole in the top plate. And then you would run the fish tape out from there to the hole for the light.
I assumed that all existing wire was 12ga/20A circuits, so he just used the same. Good point about wiring in a cold air return. I don't think wire is allowed to run parallel in one. Also, since this this building was wired with conduit, chances are that conduit is required by code, so none of this is valid. And, most condo/multifamily buildings require work to be done by licensed contractors because you're potentially putting multiple people/units at risk if you do something wrong.
U meant well with this video but every home presents different challenges. To add recessed lighting in the ceiling of my 1950's home meant cutting a multitude of openings in the sheetrock and drilling thru ceiling beams to run the romex cable. I had no access from above or below due to finished spaces so I don't see how it could have been done otherwise. It was a great big mess but the finished product was worth it.
I would be very cognizant of disturbing fire rated ceilings in a shared building. Also be aware some condos may frown upon DIY projects, as that could potentially damage shared homes. Just be aware of what you're dealing with
Exactly what I'm looking for. Have a swag lamp on a switched-only outlet and the TV plugged in on ext cable 10 ft away when it COULD be on that outlet. Only issue is most of the outlets are old 2-prong. I've converted a few to GFCI for lack of ground wire. I still want a ceiling light of some sort in there tho.
Us electricians use a 5 “ hole saw. We straddle the stud and take out a plug than we go to the switch box not the outlet than we screw the plugs back in. Much cleaner job and easier to patch. FYI a yellow wire in the US denotes 277 volt. Also the code says the p ring is too far back requiring an extension. But that’s just us electricians.
Good video, but I think you should have gone with a Raco (or another brand) old work ceiling fan electrical box. It only adds about $10 to the cost but you wouldn't have to worry about someone in the future trying to install a heavier light or ceiling fan to that and pulling it out of the ceiling.
Romex can only be run across a cold air return with the holes caulked. It’s a code violation to run romex like you did there. Depending on how many floors your condo has and local building codes it might not meet code with any romex in the condo.
It is a very nice video. You are very professional, we enjoyed watching your video. We have similar situation, four of our rooms do not have any ceiling light and no wires Ali g the walls or ceiling. We would like to install 20 led recessed lights, can you introduce to us your contractor to perform and similar work in our home. Please respond to me or how I can reach you… thanks
![Noob To Max With DRAGON REWORK In Blox Fruits [FULL MOVIE]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/LnBMOinoOvA/mqdefault.jpg)
Additional Notes from Commenters
1. Romex should not be run through a plenum
2. The box used should be able to hold a fan even if you aren't installing a fan originally. This would be a better old work box geni.us/eVaL9
Klein Voltage Tester: geni.us/h9Hl
Fish Tape (50 foot): geni.us/uPze
Klein Voltage Tester: geni.us/h9Hl
Klein Outlet Tester: geni.us/kdBAJ
Klein Tools Multimeter: geni.us/CKMI3nP
Studbuddy Stud Finder: geni.us/RySCuVw
Wire Strippers: geni.us/MdOB
Makita Cordless Drill Combo Kit: geni.us/t7dIA
Tools Every Weekend Warrior Needs
Dewalt Drill Bit Set: geni.us/oFlSl
Dewalt Screwdriver Bit Set: geni.us/VDcr
Craftsman Screwdriver Set: geni.us/jXqFI
Eklind Allen Wrench Set: geni.us/7XfvO
Pliers (4-Piece Set): geni.us/RIdx
Stanley Utility Knife: geni.us/ndIDa
Stanley Tape Measure: geni.us/bUfD1R
Johnson Torpedo Level: geni.us/wiLcDY
Stanley Hammer: geni.us/bPDk8Wo
Buck Bros Wood Chisel Set: geni.us/vk3cpTW
Little Giant Ladder: geni.us/fmlmTk
DISCLAIMER: This video and description contain affiliate links, which means that if you click on one of the product links, I’ll receive a small commission.
Per 2020 NEC must be able to carry a lot more weight than it used to. Check your AHJ.
Agree that you always need to install a fan specific ceiling box in the middle of a ceiling.
Since we're talking about fans, I always run 14/3 or 12/3 to ceiling boxes. Two reasons: the first is that if someone does put up a fan, you'll have separate fan and light controls if the customer doesn't want a remote. The other reason is that if the homeowner wants additional lights, you don't have to run a new line from the switch. Particularly with recessed lights: having multiple areas of light staging can be nice. Pro tip: if it's a serious rehab, put 3-ways beside the bed so you can walk into the room, get in bed and turn off the light without having to go back in forth to turn on a lamp of something. In addition, you can control the fan speed if you're too cold or hot during the night.
My tip; when cutting out the wall sheetrock next to the ceiling you went ALL THE WAY to the ceiling. By doing this, you have to mud the corner INTO the ceiling too. To keep mud out of the ceiling and corner, and then having mud on the ceiling too, you know the top plate is 3 inches wide. Only cut the wall sheetrock 3/4 of an inch above the bottom of the top plate. That gives you the wood to mount the sheetrock and room for the wall mud only without having to mud a corner into the ceiling.
Totally agree, I learned my lesson from this one and thanks for the feedback 👍
@JQUICK21 The top plate is 2, 2x4s = 3 inches, from the bottom of the ceiling joist to the top of the wall stud. It's the very top of the wall construction that connects the wall stud to the ceiling joist.
@@igoski1582 What's a ceiling?
@@jltaco85 It seems you are "trolling" this for some reason. The word in not misspelled, so if you really don't know what a ceiling is, I can't help you. Google it.
This is definitely something I'll be doing soon. I HATE switchable outlets with little or no cieling lights.
Hey brother, I have seen several of your videos and you do good work.
Three things for your viewers:
I am an electrical guy. I believe the 2020 code requires electric ceiling boxes be able to support fans with a few exceptions. Several have asked....they make those bar/box kits for ceiling fans.
The easy rule of thumb with neutrals in switchboxes is, yes!, A neutral in each switch box. There are exceptions and the conduit run should make this job exempt. This is so automatic lights have a current return path that is not a ground.
And not mentioned is a ground in the switch box. Yes the conduit should count, but the easy rule of thumb is to run one.
Keep up the good work and if anyone needs a reference, I can get my book out for the specific numbers or provide proof that I do not know everything.
Thanks
Oh, third....
In metal boxes, two or three wraps around the switch or recepticle may prevent the hot terminals from touching ground. An annoyance and a scare but not an nec requirement.
Here is a link to a THIS OLD HOUSE VIDEO that shows the light support.
ruclips.net/video/6r_Ni1gc5xg/видео.html
Thanks for all the feedback Keith, appreciate the help 👍
Just wanted to say thank you 😊 huge help and great tips for me to self install a new ceiling light and connect it to the light switch in my dad’s office. I’m not tool illiterate or don’t have any handy man skills but I’m always super hesitant when it comes to working with anything electrical. I followed your advice and instructions and was able to complete it all by myself! Woot woot!! My dad is 75 and an amputee so we moved in with him and my mom two years ago to help out caring for him and their home. Any project that I or my husband can do ourselves is an huge help too since they’re both retired on a fixed income. I subscribed and plan on using more videos in the near future to help with fixing, updating and upgrading their home with making it easier and more accessible for my dad 💜🖤
Omg, finally someone makes a video about my exact situation. Everyone else makes videos going into the attic or basement.
Happy to help, I do recommend using an old work box that could take a fan load amzn.to/35n6ph9. Also Romex should not go through a plenum like I did in the video. Best of luck on your project!
@@EverydayHomeRepairs thanks for the reply. Im not running a ceiling light. Im installing the ceiling Sonos sound system and needed to run power up the the ceilings.
YES. THANK YOU!!
Man ..... Exactly the same situation .. !!!!! . I do have an attic .. but at the corner I need the connection it will be never reachable on the attic . !!!!! ... Yeah . !!!!!
Same here! Thanks for this video!
Been in the same house for 30 years and always wanted to do this. Its hard when living on a budget and not wanting to mortgage my home so i do most things on my own. This is going to help. Thanks.
If you have attic access this video might be even better. Total cost for materials was $200 and it made a MASSIVE difference ruclips.net/video/KgChTKOaNsA/видео.html . Best of luck on the project
Everybody lives on a budget.
Tip:
To avoid the nail/screw pops that you made when you first hit the hole saw into the ceiling, either drill with a paddle bit for a starter hole or use an oscillating saw to make your cut.
Hole saw bits save time for light boxes and cans too.
And checking if the wall cavities are insulated helps too. And what kind of insulation you are using. Expanding foam makes it more difficult fishing those cables
Nail pops indicate the drywall was falling/nails were pulling out. It is good that he discovered this since the drywall will be carrying the weight of the ceiling fixture. He can zip screws in along side the popped nails. A bit of extra drywall repair to do, but not really that much.
@JQUICK21
A nail pop is a small, circular area that appears on drywall when a nail pulls away from the wall, pushing through the paint and drywall, this is caused by expansion a contraction of the wood its, screwed into. Nail pops can look like cracked circles or blisters on the wall.
With drywall screws, the compound can loosen from the filled void and fall out, exposing the black screw head of the screw(s). This is also caused by expansion and contraction of the wood which loosens the compound above the screw, as well as possibly poor installation of the joint compound.
60% of my work is fixing handyman electrical work. This video is future money in my pocket! Thanks
Frank Drebin, I was just thinking the same thing. He has it easy with this lay out. Did he drill through the double top plate? I missed that if he did. I would’ve also gone from the switch and just rewire the one outlet.
Why?
He used 12/2 Romex. Is the circuit 15 or 20 amp. Looked like he used 15 amp rated plugs. Also looked like there was less than 6" of wire at the plug.
@@jimmyjones6298 oh, because it’s a condo with cement walls and floors.
@@robertkachadoorian5926 normally you use 14 awg for lighting but larger wire can be used. In this case it doesn’t matter because you have to go by the existing wire size for the breaker size. But even if it’s a 20 amp circuit you can use 15 amp receptacles because you can’t plug a 20 amp device into it so the device won’t and can’t be overloaded.
As a DIYer myself, I like your laymen speak and how you tackled the project. Well done! I have a ceiling fan project that the wife has bestowed on me - . My outlet and switch situation are similar to yours and thanks for your tips on leveraging the existing switch to control the ceiling fan. My switch is for the wall outlet which I don't need - it's better for my usage to convert the wall outlet to always ON.
Best of luck on the project and since you will be installing a fan make sure you get the bracket that can hold the fan weight and not the smaller Old Work box like I used.
@@EverydayHomeRepairs Yep, got the ones from homedepot that are expandable and get bolted to the joist. The install is on the top floor with access to the joists in the ceiling.
I like how this man performs and explains. Easy to understand and learn. Thank you very much.
"or not" lol. I like that he's not perfect.
This was EXCELLENT! Thank you for sharing the step-by-step procedures to install power on a limited ceiling access. As a former principal, your “lesson plan” was terrific. Appreciate the info regarding the resources. 👏
I like people that do the job efficiently and effectively. I don't know if your professional worker but you nailed it an awesome job.
I am definitely not a licensed electrician but thanks for the kind words.
your attention to details inspire me to be better on everything that I do, that is the way to success
That laundry room drop ceiling made it so much easier to run the wiring. It would had sucked if he had to drill a hole through the top plate plus having the ceiling joist running the same way as your wiring installation. Dang i wish half of my jobs were that easy : ) Great video!
For the top plate, if he didn't have that hole he could have used an oscillating tool to cut a notch on the side of the plate, another slight recess for a nail plate, reinstall the piece of drywall which was carefully removed. Patch work is fast and easy after that.
Check your local building codes only because for condos, if multi-floor buildings, you typically cannot just put a hole in the ceiling. It creates a fire hazard because the "firewall" between floors has been compromised. I had this same issue, rewired it myself. I then decided to move and rent the condo. The inspectors made me open a permit and install a fire-retardant "hood" that you pop through the hole. It's a dome you push through the hole and it covers the hole and junction box. It is fireproof or resistant and is allowed by code.
that is a great job by you to show a beginner how to do it but I am amazed by people who know how to do it by watching your video. Anyway thanks for taking the time to produce this video.
Sir, I appreciate the way you do your videos, how you explain things simply and straightforward, without talking down to us or talking over MY head. Mostly, I appreciate how you inspire me to tackle projects that I previously feared. So thanks!
Very detailed instructions, well done! After moving to my new house four years, I searched on RUclips about this multiple times but not convinced that I can do it myself. Electricians will come to my place to help out next week and RUclips recommended this video to me, what a coincidence.
I guess I majorly paid for cutting and fixing dry wall.
Hey Peng, RUclips is almost too good in knowing what you want to see/watch 😉. Best of luck on the project.
@@EverydayHomeRepairs Lol, and in popular parlance: Neighborly Google espionage at work. Alternatively, Google spies. Oh wait, I shall be more constructive. For example, I will buy Huawei; expensive Huawei I will buy, cheap Huawei I will buy, slap a Huawei logo on a dead fish, I am still buying. Take my money so that one day it'll grow a spine, some legs, and a couple of fists for China.
How much did you pay? I’m too stupid to do these things and don’t want to mess up lol
@@Poppies__ it cost us around 200, which is reasonable for one hour work for two technicians.
Only thing I'd recommend would be if you're going through the trouble of using twist caps, use your pliers to twist them first then put the cap on top. I've removed twist caps for Wago's in my home but in doing so, I've developed a respect for how well pretwisted connections work.
Technically not necessary as wire nuts twist and bite into the wires but I agree that pretwisting is best. Exception would be stranded to solid, let the nut do the work on those.
Thanks for the video. I need to do something similar except the light will be outside on my shed. Every other video in my search just shows how to replace an existing light fixture, which I already know how to do.Many thanks!
Great Job Nicely Done 👍🏽⚡️ Always Remember To Hook Up The Ground Wire First, And Hot Wire Last
The painters tape diagram was support helpful. Very good and informative video. 10/10 ⭐️
Thanks for the feedback!
You can also cut only 3 sides of the drywall and insert the saw at a 45 degree angle then snap the uncut 4th side to act as hinges. This was you can simply fold it back and just apply mud inside and out. The reason for no taping is because of the 45 degree cut.
That is what I call a "Pro Tip." Thanks and that is a great idea. I am sure it takes a bit to get the technique down but would save a ton of time. Maybe a future video 😉
Brilliant sir! I’m totally using that tip. Thanks!
Awesome tip❤
This is exactly my kitchen on a slab. After stumbling on some of your videos this one made me hit the subscribe button. Great video
Also donating
As a remodeler, I always install ceiling boxes to hold the weight of a fan, because inevitably...someday someone will try to hang on from it. Good technique though.
Completely agree, that was a miss during my install. Thanks for the feedback.
That's brilliant. I'm always pleasantly surprised when a client asks me to hang a fan where a light was and I don't have to switch out the box.
! Excellent job!
As of 2020 code, it is required now.
@@bmwmike3534 crazies
This is exactly the installation example I was looking for. Excellent work. Thank you!
Great video. Did the same thing a couple years ago. Tip- cut the drywall very carefully using a razor and use the same piece you cut out, to put back in.
And angle to blade a bit toward the center of the piece you are removing so it can't wobble or fall into the wall cavity when cutting openings between studs
Depends on the project. One hole, go for it. Dulls the blade quickly.
Multiple holes... far quicker to punch out or saw out and then just cut a new piece from a sheet of drywall.
Personally I like to punch it out with a hammer then square it out later or just use a rotary saw from the getgo. Either way cut a new piece, use some firring strips and screw and mud in the new piece. Done.
Blown insulation sucks when installing recessed lights, you have to make sure it's cleared away before you start cutting holes in the ceiling. Another tip is to buy 6" lights instead of 4", they give better coverage and the larger hole allows you to use both hands.
great video! Yellow romex (12 gauge) is an overkill.
In my city it is the code to use 12AWG wire, 14AWG is not allowed. Yes, it can be a pain and more $$$
YOU EARNED A NEW SUBSCRIBER. JUST FOR SHOW ME HOW TO DIG INTO THE WALL. I NEED TO TAP INTO AN EXISTING OUTLET TO ADD ANOTHER OUTLET TO THE MIDDLE OF THE WALL FOR TV WALL MOUNT.
Using a multi tool/ oscillating tool to cut your drywall is a good option as well. As in the fish tape...that works fine if you don't have installation in the way. If you do, a rod style may work better.
It is an advantage when the walls and ceilings are made of wood! Nice work.
I didn’t know about the isolation tab on the outlet before. Nice tip. One of the things that has bothered me for decades is the practice of not having a ceiling light wired to a switch and instead having it wired to the outlets. That has always been a WTF!?! thing for me. I mean if switchable outlets is something you might think someone would want than do that, but there needs to be at least one light fixture in the ceiling, with the switch by the door.
Back in the day that used to be common because people used lamps on a table controlled by the outlet
@@willschultz5452 That’s fine, but again switch for the ceiling light should have been the primary light. If you want that extra switchable outlet then install next to the ceiling light switch
@@mendodsoregonbackroads6632 yes ive seen those before also. The house I grew up in was built in 1961 and had no ceiling lights in any of the 4 bedrooms, or the family room or the living room. They were all a switch that worked a receptacle. The only place that had a switchable light was the kitchen, laundry room and the 3 bathrooms. It was very common back then.
@@willschultz5452 And that's why houses were cheaper back then! j/k
Also in some condos they don't install ceiling lights to avoid sound to travel. Sometimes they put the lights on walls too. Sometimes there's a concrete slab between the condos and they don't want to pierce through it to loose the sound isolation.
Never understood why Americans use square junction boxes, and now I see you use a HAND SAW to make a circular hole! You never stop surprising me.
If you are doing this much work... just go to the switch put in a 2 gang box one for the light and one for a fan or outlets and put in a fan rated box... u have to repair holes might as well do this job once and be done with it
I’m glad I found this. I have a two story condo (no attic) and have considered a ceiling fan so I liked this video just to get an idea of how much drywall damage will occur to help me decide if I wanna have that ceiling fan installed. Side note, the previous owner had a ceiling fan but lost the place in a foreclosure and the bank removed the ceiling fan so not sure if the wiring is there or not.
Make sure your box is supported. They make a box/support kit that fits through a box size hole and braces against the joists. Should be at big box stores or local electric distributer.
I was waiting for him to pull the yellow wire and then realize, OH shit... I needed that 😂
I was thinking the same thing 😂
I would have put a pull string behind it for improbable future use.
@@chuckwyble7719 I would snip both end off and leave the wire in there.
@@chuckwyble7719 that's what I Do. Even though I'm 99% sure I won't need it it'll be that one time I'm like damn wish I had that string to pull past these damn wires!
Thanks!
I’ve been questioning myself for months how this is done got a quote guy wanted 600$ thank so sooo very much sir👍🏽👏🏽
Awesome, best of luck on the project and I would say $600 is a good motivator to tackle this project on your own. Stay safe!
600 is not bad if includes all the work, patching, and painting. And it's done by a professional.
Thanks! This was really helpful. I’m still struggling a bit because I want to do what you just did in this video but also add a 3-way switch into the equation, so having 2 switches that control the new installed light while leaving the power outlets always hot
this is exactly what im looking for. Now I have to find a video on how to plug that big hole.
Just added four Canless Lights to a room. Installed them with new wiring and connecting to an existing wall switch.
Used 6 3/8” hole saw (took 25 to 30 seconds to cut each hole).
City inspector signed off and good to go with drywalling the ceiling. Your vid provided some tips for the “next” time. Thanks for sharing.
Appreciate it. Did you have to staple the new wiring any where?
@@waynegomillion4976 - Yes, used insulated staples along the joists to secure the wiring.
Watching these videos makes me want to start making videos to show people the right way in doing things clean and not doing things like a typical hack job
No videos
Please do ;)
Very well thought out and executed. Thanks again for explaining a nice project!
Those nail pops are exactly why I always use screws when installing drywall they pretty much completely eliminate that issue when the screws are properly driven.
Yeah, was a bummer for sure. Just added the pops to the list of drywall repair.
I have heard that when drywall is installed at a contract level which means fast paced, installers use nails and glue to adhere the drywall since this makes it faster and easier handling of the sheet. I would use screws myself since I normally do small repairs and I am not too concerned about the time.
Nice video by the way
@@EverydayHomeRepairs Well, you were going to have the mud and paint out anyway, so no big deal.
Thank you for wrapping the wires around the screws instead of just pressing them into the backs of the outlets. That’s the best way to do it. I wish the people who wired my house had done that.
Yeah, I am not a fan of push pins.
Omg, I just learned more in 5 minutes than I have in years!! Thank you!!!
Happy to help! Do check the top pinned comment for some additional notes on this project.
Nice work. I'm making a video installing 6 recessed can lights in a basement. I like you approach in your wiring technique. I use a multi-tool with a drywall blade. Makes a nice clean hole. I'm lucky though. I have access to the ceiling thru the closet under the stairs. Very professional and you explained on detail what you were doing. I'm just getting ideas how to do my video. Thank you and keep up the good work
I would suggest cutting the access hole smaller and away from the roof/wall joint. Smaller hole mean less drywall to patch (you can patch the drywall away from the studs as long as you use backing wood on two seams. Lower to avoid having to retape the roof/wall joint thereby avoiding mud work on the ceiling.
Then you would not have good access to the space where the snake is . You have to be able to get right into the corner
Patch and drywall are cheap, and about half the time you end up wishing you mad a bigger hole to start.
7:28 If you are going around the stud with a wire, make sure you’re not going between the studs and drywall. If you must notch the stud for wire, be SURE to use a nail plate to prevent potential screws or anything else from damaging the wire.
I've, unfortunately, had to use a strike plate before. It's a last resort :/ I don't like notching but it was a fucked up wiring to begin with. Fixed what I could and made it cleaner and safer... but I didn't like that I had to notch it. Ironically enough I found out they had run another wire from far away through all the studs to a completely different room. I could have tapped that but had no idea it was there. Meh it works and looked good.
!!!! Thank you!
Ty!
I used chewed-up gum to cover the notch and wire - Is that OK, master Electrician sir?
This is exactly the video and example I was looking for, thank you! Would enjoy seeing a follow-up on if you decide to alter the light switch or upgrade switch for additional functionality. Awesome video!
Thank you for doing this video. I'll watch it several times and have saved it to my favorites. Great Job!!!
Happy to help and best of luck on the project.
A few important tips:
1. Use a multi tool to cut the Sheetrock instead of a utility knife or keyhole saw. Saves time and easier on the wrists.
2. Do not cut the hole in the Sheetrock over the studs. That way you can reinstall the cutout piece of Sheetrock. Screw in backer boards with course drywall screws to re-secure the cutout Sheetrock. Using the same piece will also assure that the original texture will line up.
3. I would suggest to install a fan box rated at 50lbs instead of a plastic box. There are fan boxes for existing Sheetrocked ceilings. Cut the hole and slip the bracket through the hole. It will clamp to the joists. That way, you have the option of a fan or light. You are not limited to a light.
For the holes I use a 4 1/2” hole saw.
To fill it I use a 6” hole saw to cut the plunge. I turn the plugs to the back side. Using the 4 1/2” hole saw I cut the backing paper and drywall- leaving the topping paper uncut. I remove the (donut shape) backing paper and drywall between the 4 1/2” and 6” dia.
This gives me a plug with a paper rim.
I pot a line of caulking around the edge of the plug and wood glue on the paper and stick it back on. When it drys I skim coat it with 20 minute mud. Then paint.
Not bad, I have seen more and more videos on RUclips using a similar method to patch drywall. I think some guys call it a "California Patch." Thanks for sharing your experience.
It’s funny it’s called California patch as my dad came up with it while we were on a job in the 1980’s. A guy punched holes all over and we had to fix it. Not to say he did not invent what was invented as that happens. Lol I rather call it a Ontario patch lol but OK
Great video keep it up
👍👍
Good job. I have the same issue at home. None of the rooms have a light and the light switch controls an outlet. To me that's the stupidest most pointless thing ever; why would anyone want to build a house like that?
Thank you for the video, watching it is the first step in trying to do something about it.
I think the outlets are used to power lamps and using the wall switches as on and off Instead of using the on and off switch on the lamp itself. Back in the days style.
What did you screw the Junction box to ... the floor above? I have a electrical outlet that floats in the wall not even an inch next to a joist ... my goodness that attachment would have saved me hours of repair. Thank you for your time and efforts
Hey Randi, the box I installed is simply holding on the back of the drywall and not meant for holding much weight (especially not a fan). This is a better option for old work jobs to ensure a sturdy box for a light and/or fan. amzn.to/3nityIu
@@EverydayHomeRepairs Thank you for your response
They make metal brackets sometimes called pie brackets (because the look like the symbol for pie) to support such an outlet or switch box , also this is a ceiling box that passes code www.homedepot.com/p/Commercial-Electric-12-cu-in-Plastic-NM-Fan-Box-with-Plastic-Cover-CPB13NM-SM/205383211
As always, a great video, you are a great teacher! As far as converting the outlets to always on, can’t you just disconnect the switch, and connect the switched wires together, adding a jumper to the switch, then use the switch for the light? I can see the value in simplifying by removing extra wires, but they are there, and safe. Am I missing something?
I wondered the same thing.
You could absolutely do that. It would certainly save you a lot of time. -the disadvantage is that a future electrician might find it confusing as to why there were 2 hots and wonder whether it's a shared neutral circuit. That said, making that assumption without checking at the switch to see if the receptacle was once switched is not too bright. Personally, I would have left the old switched wires in place in case someone wanted to change it in the future.
Great video. I have a bedroom with no ceiling light and 1 switched outlet. I've often thought of installing a ceiling light in that bedroom. Luckily, I have attic access.
Can you point me to a site that has diagrams showing how, exactly, I can install a ceiling light, as well as changing that 1 outlet from switched to powered all the time? Thanks.
Two things I would do differently here. 1) Twist the wires together with lineman pliers and snip them flush before applying the wire nut. The connection will be better and more secure. 2) Definitely no need to cut the drywall all the way into the corner like that. It's much easier to patch if you leave the corners undisturbed. Could have left 2" or so of drywall out from each corner and just had a flat patch.
You don’t need to use pliers especially with one wire
@@Dontcare523 "Need" to, no. You can carelessly stuff the wires in and it will usually still work. But any good electrician will tell you it makes a better connection if you twist the wires together. Won't loosen or come apart as you stuff it into the box, less likely to be a problem later. It's what lineman pliers are designed for.
@@dwasifarkaralahishipoor2223 if you twist the wire nut tight enough it’s fine the plier trick is a waste of time
@@Dontcare523 The plier "trick" is how professionals do it. But go ahead, be sloppy and careless. It's your house.
@@dwasifarkaralahishipoor2223 no they don’t I’ve never seen it you can let fixtures hang from only wire nuts if you know what you’re doing
Thanks for doing this video. This is exactly what i was looking for. In my case I have a concrete ceiling, how would you deal with getting wire to the center and interfacing the wall and ceiling when it comes to the wire?
Also, regarding pulling the extra wire out. Personally I would have tagged them with a flag of electrical tape and wrote on them "Old 1/2 hot SL" (old half hot switch leg). It's always best to leave extra conductors in place if they are not damaged (for future use). They could have been used for some other project such as adding wall sconces or repairing a damaged wire burnt up at one of the receptacles.
So very simple . and that's exactly what I need to do . .. !!!!! the rest ( the moving the yellow cords away ) . was for me a little confused, but since I don't need to work on removing anything . !!!! the beginning is just what I need .. amazing job .. Thanks . !!!!
Great, best of luck on the project. Also checked the top (pinned) comment for a few notes I learned from all the commenters since the video was published.
Bummer for the nail pops at 5:15. You only have that happen a time or two before "slow and easy" becomes the only way to make a new opening in existing drywall.
I was a working electrician for over a decade, doing lots of service & side work, and never knew in the beginning I'd also become a drywall repair expert. ;)
Great video to teach a beginner how to add a light the only thing I would change is I would cut a much smaller hole in the left stud space a couple inches lower so you don’t have to patch a corner and you can use that smaller hole to fish the wire into the right stud space
Good video. My tip would be to leave much more wire at every location. It drives me crazy when I open up a box and only find about 3" of wire. Very difficult to work with.
Thanks for the feedback Roman!
Well how long should it be !?
@@davidwillard7334 6 inches
Loved the video and the taping, part was really nice to watching.
Great, glad you enjoyed the video!
Man, I used to keep my drywall holes small, but honestly, patching a large hole vs small holes is the same amount of work. Drywall is cheap and large openings speed up work.
plus, if the hole is large enough, a "nailer" can be inserted behind the impending joints to screw both parts of the sheetrock (drywall) to make for a better "new" section of wall. also, if you are able to cut the hole over existing framing members with an oscillating saw, the entire existing piece can be reinstalled, eliminating the need for a lumber yard trip, except for the joint compound.
This video address one of my next home repair. Your videos are great and easy to follow along. I did subscribed to your channel after watching this video
This was a great lesson on showing viewers that you don't have to be an expert electrician to do simple electrical installs. Curious about why you used 12 AWG Romex. Usually this circuit would be on a 15a breaker and AWG 14 would surface (and a lot easier to work with). You also installed new outlets, why not just add a jumper to the existing ones? I would have moved the light box up against the ceiling joist and installed a fan bracket to allow for a ceiling fan (maybe in the future) and light; this would also require running a three conductor Romex (black, red, white) to the ceiling from the switch. Are you in the US? I've never seen yellow wire used in lighting installs.
Hi David, I had extra 12-2 from another project if I was buying wire specifically for this I would probably grab some 14-3 Romex. Agree with adding a fan bracket and others have mentioned specifically this one amzn.to/2W0rDfY . Yeah, this condo is in the Midwest but the wiring seems to be more along the lines of a commercial as opposed to residential install since they used conduit throughout the unit. Appreciate your feedback 👍
@@EverydayHomeRepairs If it is a 15A breaker and the rest of the wire is 15A, using the 12-2 is a violation of NEC. You should have used 14-2.
@@EverydayHomeRepairs I used this saddle style box that saddle mounts to a joist (and TJI). It leaves less space to work a fish, but still doable in most installations. "RACO 1-Gang Black Plastic New Work Standard Saddle Boxes Ceiling Electrical Box". Found it at Ace Hardware and Lowes. Supposedly can support a ceiling fan too. I could not use the fan bracket since there was duct work in the center of the room and I did not want to move too far off that line, but the adjacent joist was still somewhat centered. Thanks for your videos!
@@eddie3721 sir, I am an electrical guy and do not believe the use of 12-2 in this case is a code violation. The circuit breaker should protect the lowest rated part of the circuit...the 15a recepticles and 14-2. The larger wire should not violate anything, but if you have a code section. I will be happy to stand corrected.
This is perfect! Thank you! Now, I know you said this is not necessarily to code, but does anyone know if this IS to code, by chance?
This video was great learned a ton but could you also make a video of how to do a similar dry wall repair to that one so close to the ceiling like that.
he is not a drywaller. This is where you get a drywall guy to patch things up for you or if you want to do it yourself, youtube "how to drywall repair" as this dude is obviously just an electrician
I've learned so much from all your videos, but I have one question on this one - why didn't you run the new wiring for the light straight to the switch? The outlets power still goes to the switch which power the light correct, and with the yellows removed on the new outlets they are full power all the time correct? Or is that one of the Wrong way to do it? LOL I thought it would be less wire and less mess in the outlet box - if this wouldn't work or cause a short please let me know. Thanks again for all the instructions.
Probably start out by saying switch off at circuit breaker first ! Before you touch wires?
@OGR Better to be a Debbie Downer than an Electrified Eric. LOL
Excellent video, so clear and concise makes the job look a lot less intimidating. Can't wait to add a ceiling fan to my switch instead of the stupid ceiling fan running to a switched outlet like it is now.
Thanks! Best of luck on the project 👍
Code states 6" min of wire sticking out of the box for the fixture. Your are the one the I fuss about whenever I come back in behind you to fix the light with a loose wirenut.
Thinking the same. I appreciate showing people how to DIY. But if you don’t have all the stuff down, that’s the reason people mess stuff up.
Also, did you see him loop the ground? I didn’t. Maybe I missed it or didn’t show but I didn’t see it.
@SUBJECT M01 got it. I skipped ahead because I couldn’t watch it anymore lol
I wonder if he pulled an electrical permit? Lol I’m not sure how code works where he’s from but here in Canada... when only having a hot and SL in a box was still legal... you could carry power to the switch on your white conductor..but your SL back HAD to be the black. And why did he run 12/2? Here 14/2 would suffice.
@@jimmymcintyre4889 Its a condo and technically a commercial installation. In many states, you must be a certified electrician to do the work which precludes a homeowner from DIY. Also commercial properties require upgraded wiring, usually one AWG larger.
I got a suggestion. As an HVAC tech we’re always pulling new wires for various things. At the top of the wall I suggest cut the wall to accommodate a HVAC 6” x 14” return air grill instead of messing up the wall, patching and mudding and painting is eliminated. Of course you have to sell the idea of an extra grill to the customer. Can also be used on a ceiling, which ever is Preffered.
So much for those naiils/screws holding the ceiling dry wall :( I saw it happen and was like DAMN!
awesome video and well explained. exactly the same problem i need to resolve in the townhome bedroom
Step one: Turn off power at the breaker/fuse box before doing anything with wiring/electrical.
Very good, indeed always.
@@jthonn Good point! It's also a good idea to double check with a non-contact voltage tester to make sure it's off. I don't like making assumptions with power.
step 2: call a licensed electrician
I only do hot, i love living on the edge
@@DaruDhillon id suggest using a proper meter as non contact testers are not very safe either.
Thanks for the excellent video. I am dealing with a similar situation in my home but I am installing a ceiling fan with a light. I will have a remote control for the fan and light. Should I have 2 switches on the wall? Thanks
I am not a huge fan of the remotes as they definitely just add another point of failure. If you do a remote then 1 light switch would be fine since you can turn the light on/off and fan on/off separately from the remote. Don't forget to use a different electrical box as compared to what I used in the video especially to support the weight from the fan. This is what I recommend amzn.to/2W0rDfY
Im not an electrician just a DIYer but I would of ran your new wire from your wall switch, not the outlet. Then at the switch you can wire your outlet hot all the time.
He installed a new outlet that with a tab between the switchable circuit that is hot all the time , regardless of the switch position.
@@JS-zj9fx yes. But he still could have taken his wire to the switch. Discarded old wiring (cap and label) and put on plugs without the tab broken lol.
Very good, the right video I was looking for very informative. Thank you
This was a very interesting installation. I really like how you were able to fish wire with minimal drywall damage. I did see two things that concerned me. The first is that the box you used for the ceiling is not ceiling rated. If you look at the UL listing for that box it specifically says that it is designed for wall and not for ceilings. The second thing is that if that wall cavity you ran the romex in is an air plenum, then this is actually a very dangerous installation because the romex is not plenum rated. If there is a fire, then the romex will produce a poisonous gas that would spread through the home.
Hey Paul, thanks for the feedback. Agree, this is a better box to use amzn.to/2W0rDfY .
@@EverydayHomeRepairs Another thing is you didn't ground the cross brace that screws to the box that supports the light. Even though the light is grounded, the cross brace needs to be grounded as well. If the box was metal instead of plastic, you wouldn't need to do ground the brace.
This is the box he should of used www.homedepot.com/p/Commercial-Electric-12-cu-in-Plastic-NM-Fan-Box-with-Plastic-Cover-CPB13NM-SM/205383211
@@Bluesman57 it looks like the metal tube make contact with the brace and the metal backing of the light. I'm not sure why it'd matter anyways, that bracket isn't accessible and I doubt you'll get a short there and not conduct to the back of the lamp.
I have done this twice in two bedrooms - installed lights and fan combo - no not the crappy kind of fan light combo - crystal and fancy wings open and close -
That wall hole tells me you don’t do much drywall patching.
Now you have to tape the top edge and it’s a corner
If he gets the patch nice and tight on the cieling side, he can caulk the cieling angle or any other angle for that mater.. Just make sure you go all the way to the next corner, looks more uniform that way.
@@gmazz0913 I was thinking the same thing. Like cutting the quarter panel on your car front end to reach a spark plug
Thank you, was thinking the same thing. At least he made nice, square patchable holes. But there was a much more efficient way of removing the drywall (i.e. never needed to expose the top plate).
Any electrician that comes onto my job-site and starts bashing the walls with a hammer is asked to leave.
@@steveb6371 Cut the hole at least 3 inches below the ceiling that way you don't have to worry about patching the ceiling, just the wall.
@@johnbeckwith1361 I use the poll of a hatchet or hammer. No chance of hitting a cable and I'll square off the edges and cut new sheet of drywall to match later so who cares? I'm not reusing the same square I just cut anyways. It's just drywall.
I thought he did a very good job explaining his planning and thought process. I'm in the exact situation. My problem is I have a popcorn ceiling....so,...he has given me an idea how to do this w/out jacking up the ceiling.
I would have cut the Sheetrock away from the seam, much easier to spackle.
Now you just said you have a closet on the other side?! Why the hell didn’t you cut the rock in there?
Agree that cutting the drywall lower would have been a smarter move. The closet wouldn't have worked because it actually has a drop in the ceiling that would have made fishing the wire through a bit harder. Thanks for the feedback.
@@EverydayHomeRepairs you got it done though!
thats what happens when you are dealing with a rookie
@@dematt321 he’s way better than any of the helpers my bosses have hired in the last ten years. They probably don’t pay enough?
This is so clear that I almost think I can do it by myself😂😂😂
Thank you for explaining everything and walking us through.
Happy to help!
Running wire in a cold air return some/most codes require plenum wiring. And 12/2 for a light is not needed, 14/2 is good enough. The technique for fishing across a ceiling was spot on, if you don't have access to the back side of your wall then you need to cut a longer hole in the side wall enough to get a drill in to and drill a hole in the top plate. And then you would run the fish tape out from there to the hole for the light.
I assumed that all existing wire was 12ga/20A circuits, so he just used the same. Good point about wiring in a cold air return. I don't think wire is allowed to run parallel in one. Also, since this this building was wired with conduit, chances are that conduit is required by code, so none of this is valid. And, most condo/multifamily buildings require work to be done by licensed contractors because you're potentially putting multiple people/units at risk if you do something wrong.
U meant well with this video but every home presents different challenges. To add recessed lighting in the ceiling of my 1950's home meant cutting a multitude of openings in the sheetrock and drilling thru ceiling beams to run the romex cable. I had no access from above or below due to finished spaces so I don't see how it could have been done otherwise. It was a great big mess but the finished product was worth it.
Yes, that would be a bigger job for sure. This type of work always gives me a greater appreciation for attic access.
I would be very cognizant of disturbing fire rated ceilings in a shared building.
Also be aware some condos may frown upon DIY projects, as that could potentially damage shared homes.
Just be aware of what you're dealing with
Exactly what I'm looking for. Have a swag lamp on a switched-only outlet and the TV plugged in on ext cable 10 ft away when it COULD be on that outlet. Only issue is most of the outlets are old 2-prong. I've converted a few to GFCI for lack of ground wire. I still want a ceiling light of some sort in there tho.
Us electricians use a 5 “ hole saw. We straddle the stud and take out a plug than we go to the switch box not the outlet than we screw the plugs back in. Much cleaner job and easier to patch. FYI a yellow wire in the US denotes 277 volt. Also the code says the p ring is too far back requiring an extension. But that’s just us electricians.
Hey James, I appreciate you sharing your experience. Thanks for the feedback.
This worked like a charm. I didn't have access to my attic either. Thank you so much! You saved me tons of money. :)
I grease up my apprentice, shove him into the ceiling and tie the tag line to one of his legs and let him have at it.
Good video, but I think you should have gone with a Raco (or another brand) old work ceiling fan electrical box. It only adds about $10 to the cost but you wouldn't have to worry about someone in the future trying to install a heavier light or ceiling fan to that and pulling it out of the ceiling.
Great tip, appreciate the feedback 👍
i got quoted $850 for something like this, thanks for the video!!
Yeah, it can really add up for sure. If you are confident with your skills and researched the code in your area I say go for it.
Add the cost of the tools & materials you'll need, the time it takes, and the workmanship to do a quality job.
A 3 inch hole saw works perfect for those type of ceiling boxes
For sure, I only had a 2 1/4" handy so turned to the jab saw. Thanks for the tip!
Couldn't agree more, every home should have a fixture in every room.
You cannot use Romex in a plenum area. That is why they used conduit.
Hey Melissa, thanks for the feedback.
Actually romex can be installed in a return air duct in a residential installation.
That's not necessarily true. In Chicago, all wiring must be installed in conduit, whether in a plenum or not.
Romex can only be run across a cold air return with the holes caulked. It’s a code violation to run romex like you did there. Depending on how many floors your condo has and local building codes it might not meet code with any romex in the condo.
you can use what you want on your property...this is a free nation
It is a very nice video. You are very professional, we enjoyed watching your video. We have similar situation, four of our rooms do not have any ceiling light and no wires Ali g the walls or ceiling. We would like to install 20 led recessed lights, can you introduce to us your contractor to perform and similar work in our home. Please respond to me or how I can reach you… thanks