Every manufacturer of pvc fittings say pipe should be beveled, skipping this step could result in the fittings cracking. I have seen this a few times and can confirm it happens. For the record every time I have seen it the installer used blue glue.
He's talking about when you get a way less clean cut and it leaves a bunch of burrs on the inside you've got to cut out so they dont break away and clog shit further down the line
Sawzall makes plenty of flakes and a slight lip on the inside of the pipe, the cutter doesn't. No power tools allowed on the illinois plumbing exam, these are absolutely necessary
Normally primer and glue softens up the pipe and you never have an issue getting it in the coupling just make sure you hold it in for a few seconds so it doesn’t push itself out.
@@drakelomont8548 I never dry fit anything because the pipe always gets stuck it’s too annoying. I end up spending 5 minutes trying to pry the piece out of the coupling with some pliers, I just cut pieces right the first time and if i made a mistake I’ll re do it, the fitting and piece of pipe I wasted is worth not getting all pissed off while I’m working.
If you do a lot of 636 this is worth checking out. I went away from the sawzall and have been using this method for a while. It really does leave a perfect edge and doesn’t fling bits down your flue pipe. Also no need to use a file to clean it up. Ends up being faster and better. Just my opinion.
I'm all for bevels on a pipe but im for letting the solvent soften the pipe with a "tight" fit so when you push the pipe together it creates a proper fusion.
That's literally what it does.... It's not just the edge getting fused/welded/glued. It's the whole thing. This is actually better. And though I haven't checked, I'm pretty sure every manufacturer would recommend for this install...
@@madsnipergodonxbox9559 most people would see a reduction in failures by reading or re-reading the manufacturer's recommended installation instructions and making sure that they are using the proper product for the particular application and in the particular conditions.
Congrats on this guy doing it the right way. I started in 97 and they already had the pvc wheel for most quick cutters and that same deburring tool was out. I'm happy just to see a square cut and somebody trying to debur it with any deburring tool.
Nice to see a job done correctly.... As a remodel contractor I've been through 5 plumbers in the past year because most plumbers do just enough to pass inspection.
Except its what most contractors pay for. don't blame subs for someone else being to cheep to pay for a proper job or a cheap sub who under bids the competition to get the work then cuts corners. you pay for quality you should get quality but you go with the lowest price you get the lowest quality.
@@paulandreotto7266 I specialize in mid to high end interior remodels. I outline my expectations before they bid the job and I always offer time and material for any overages. I am very particular that everything is straight, level and plumb. I want the inside of my walls to look as good as the finished procuct. There is a difference between a craftsman and and a run of the mill contractor. Craftsmen are a lost bread.
I mean it really doesn’t save much time if any, and may even add time. Cuz I usually have my sawzall with me on the job and so I can just cut my pvc with that like normal people 😂
I’m a plumber, I do service plumbing so I don’t pull this bad boy out like every day but I will say I do like it and prefer it over sawzall, a nice straight cut every time, I’d recommend getting one if you don’t already have one
...If you like going back and fixing leaks... but if you want to be sure it will hold this is the best way to go. I need one of these because I have been using a grinder to chamfer.
@@elciscozamora being old doesn’t mean that you have been doing it right, sure u can get it done how u want but damn sure im shaving a bit off so it seats and has a better hold
@@bransontucker2606 how does removing material give a better hold? hint: it doesn't. that's why friction fit is a thing and "remove material for a void fit" isn't. stick to fortnite ya fuckin zoomer
as someone who is going to be tackling a complete home restoration. this is a gem of knowledge. I love finding tips and tricks to make the quality of my work better. Thanks ^-^
I dont do much plumbing work, however i dont think i have ever had an issue with pieces not fitting together. With that said that cutting tool is nice.
I've been tinbashing furnaces for a few decades...a few years after high efficiency furnaces became code the boss sent me to a venting course that instructed this method. You also have to chamfer because the pipe cutters flare out the end a bit...I did it this way for while then back to the Sawzall....
I see how it looks way better like an actual weld . But how much stronger does this make it? And also how does it compare to what we most all usually do .
I only use pvc for residential furnaces and power vent water heaters, so it's not every day, and a 12v Hackzall works perfect. But for commercial work or large jobs this would be nice.
@Treedom Vellacroix probably takes longer to get the pipe and measurements to the guy outside and then take them back inside to the attic then it does to just take the 2 small tools into the attic… lmao
Plastic and mitre saws don't play well together. Had to make a fixture to turn a steel flange once out of 5" Delrin round bar. My bandsaw was out of commission so i tried it on the mitre, used every screw clamp in the county to hold it down and could hardly push the saw through. But that's not the problem with mitres and plastic, it's that the plastic doesn't make chips, it makes molten strings that glues itself to any plastic, painted or clean metal surface and gums up the whole saw. Took a good hour or two to poke and pull all the chunks out of the thing
Agreed! I thought the same thing. Just like when you use an adjustable crescent wrench: when tightening something (i.e., turning clockwise), the fixed jaw should be on the right, taking the bulk of the torque. Flip the wrench over when loosening something.
How do they work in the winter? Never pulled the trigger on one because when I’ve used my manual cutter in the winter, it ends up cracking the cold pvc near the end of the cut
@@Horace1993 it's a tool to have, and every tool has its place. But this is not the main tool for most jobs, a hacksaw works faster and is more versatile
Demonstrating a ‘new’ PVC cutter that requires 360 degrees of unrestricted movement around the pipe, which you almost never have. That is such a terrible idea. Nothing wrong with a sawzall or better yet, a PVC shear!!
Use a 1/2” drive adaptor for sockets on the back of the reamer to ream the pipe with a drill. Works great on 4” sch 80 pvc. Saves strain on your wrist when doing a lot of pvc work.
Idk, with anything, muscle memory makes it quicker I’m sure someone could used these equally as fast as you. I think the bevel is overkill tbh, and I’m also pretty sure that cutter only cuts foam core pvc so it’s kinda useless tbh
I'm sorry, but really? It looks like a swell product, but I really doubt and plumber in a tunnel under a house with dirt in their asscrack and sweat in their eyes, is gonna use anything other than a Sawzall... just speaking from experience
The reason your not getting full engagement of the fitting is when you use tube cutters you displace the blade volume on either side of the cutter causing a larger diameter That is why once you chamfer pipe you get full engagement Also if you don’t debur with this system the female fitting will have the majority of glue pushed off when the over size male end is pushed on to the fitting
You can use a chopsaw, a hacksaw, or my favorite a coping saw to cut pipe just fine. However, this is a nice, clean cut, and the ability to slide the pipe in all the way without glue to check the fit is really helpful when building drain systems
Theres a 3D printable STL file for $3 on cults3d called pipe sharpener that fits multiple sizes of PVC and has built in slots for blades that are offset to 15 degrees. Its essentially this but for $7 in materials if you have a printer, or $20 if you facebook a printing service to print it for you.
Lol, the glue is supposed to be lead by primer, which softens the pvc. Then the glue upon curing actually melts the pvc together (well sort if it's a chemical reaction before you get started on me). The edge has nothing to do with the "sticking together" of pipes.
People here making it seems like this is useless when its actually very important as it will spread the glue evenly instead of pushing it to the end. This is just called doing a thorough and good job.
Here are links to the products.
Quick Release Cutter: amzn.to/3ZbLPKy
Deburring Tool amzn.to/41xnFMj
Funny that the german company Knipex has a tool which does both steps in one for less.
@lucagrovejahn9569 what tool?
@@lucagrovejahn9569 what tool is that bruh?
Tubing cutter $130
Deburring tool $145
You're welcome.
Tubing cutter pack $50
Burr whip $1
You're welcome.
@@S10W_ass_K150O buddy's Sawzall- $0
Or Amazon
17$ deburring tool
8$ tubing cutter
@C Jacobs if you hate quality work
That's not alot of money.. I make that in a day.
If it makes the job easier and cleaner, it will pay for itself in time.
Fits really nicely when you put cleaner and glue on.
I was thinking the same thing 🤣
Lol was halfway writing this until I saw your comment
Exactly what I was gonna say.. tape your cleaner nd glue jugs together .. sawzall, quick swirl of cleaner and glue boom done and 5 times faster!
Nice. I used to have to do all that with a saws all. Lol
Every manufacturer of pvc fittings say pipe should be beveled, skipping this step could result in the fittings cracking. I have seen this a few times and can confirm it happens. For the record every time I have seen it the installer used blue glue.
"leaves no waste so you don't have to cut anything out" "so then you use the deburring chamfer tool"
Glad i wasnt the only one who noticed that. Its like just use another tool that doesnt require you to use a deburring chamfer
He's talking about when you get a way less clean cut and it leaves a bunch of burrs on the inside you've got to cut out so they dont break away and clog shit further down the line
Sawzall makes plenty of flakes and a slight lip on the inside of the pipe, the cutter doesn't. No power tools allowed on the illinois plumbing exam, these are absolutely necessary
Talk about nitpicking 🙄
@@mikejonesss why don't you guys just debur it with your fingers? Why do you all need tools to clean your saw cuts?
Normally primer and glue softens up the pipe and you never have an issue getting it in the coupling just make sure you hold it in for a few seconds so it doesn’t push itself out.
Wild no one else is talking about that I thought I was going crazy. PVC doesn't dryfit very nicely
@@drakelomont8548 I never dry fit anything because the pipe always gets stuck it’s too annoying. I end up spending 5 minutes trying to pry the piece out of the coupling with some pliers, I just cut pieces right the first time and if i made a mistake I’ll re do it, the fitting and piece of pipe I wasted is worth not getting all pissed off while I’m working.
@@drakelomont8548 well I dry fit copper and pex but pvc I don’t even bother, the pipe is always bowed from standing in up in the warehouse
Let's give it to em family style
@@ochocinco1535 I can’t take dis shit no mo man
Sawzall won’t let you down
If you do a lot of 636 this is worth checking out. I went away from the sawzall and have been using this method for a while. It really does leave a perfect edge and doesn’t fling bits down your flue pipe. Also no need to use a file to clean it up. Ends up being faster and better. Just my opinion.
@@theplumber585 What is 636? I’m a plumber and just have never heard that term.
@@mattingegneri1077 might be the thick high temp stuff
@@brianc3481 oh for flue piping? We use pvc on high efficiency water heaters or CPVC and Duravent in boilers
@@mattingegneri1077 idk honestly but I've heard about it before for high temp flue stuff where I would just use double wall metal
I'm all for bevels on a pipe but im for letting the solvent soften the pipe with a "tight" fit so when you push the pipe together it creates a proper fusion.
That's literally what it does.... It's not just the edge getting fused/welded/glued. It's the whole thing. This is actually better.
And though I haven't checked, I'm pretty sure every manufacturer would recommend for this install...
@@josegomez6549 but why waste that much money when if you just use regular cutters it still seals the whole pipe.
@natecampbell9511 because time is money and if you take care of your tools the incremental time they save builds up over time
Band saw and deburr with your fingers has worked wonders for me
Instructions unclear, deburred fingers with bandsaw.
The guy I work for would go nuts if I told him we needed special equipment like this to do our plumbing
The strongest part of it is where the pipe and the fitting melted together. You’re not just gluing it, your welding it
The strongest part is the solid pipe. I always see the system fail at the joints
@@madsnipergodonxbox9559 most people would see a reduction in failures by reading or re-reading the manufacturer's recommended installation instructions and making sure that they are using the proper product for the particular application and in the particular conditions.
@@madsnipergodonxbox9559 what this guy said. Joints, no matter what form they come in, are always going to be structural weak points
@@madsnipergodonxbox9559 Right. The strongest part of the fitting I mean
@@secretzombie3976 A lot of people don’t do a quarter turn to fuse the pipes together. It’s like stirring a fluid almost
Congrats on this guy doing it the right way. I started in 97 and they already had the pvc wheel for most quick cutters and that same deburring tool was out. I'm happy just to see a square cut and somebody trying to debur it with any deburring tool.
I do HVAC, Reed is the only way to go for copper cutters
Nice to see a job done correctly.... As a remodel contractor I've been through 5 plumbers in the past year because most plumbers do just enough to pass inspection.
That is all that’s required by law unfortunately. Doesn’t say it has to look good
Except its what most contractors pay for. don't blame subs for someone else being to cheep to pay for a proper job or a cheap sub who under bids the competition to get the work then cuts corners. you pay for quality you should get quality but you go with the lowest price you get the lowest quality.
@@paulandreotto7266 I specialize in mid to high end interior remodels. I outline my expectations before they bid the job and I always offer time and material for any overages. I am very particular that everything is straight, level and plumb. I want the inside of my walls to look as good as the finished procuct. There is a difference between a craftsman and and a run of the mill contractor. Craftsmen are a lost bread.
You know you're getting old when you start to enjoy this kind of content. Me too
If you’re a professional, time is money and this saves so much time.
I mean it really doesn’t save much time if any, and may even add time. Cuz I usually have my sawzall with me on the job and so I can just cut my pvc with that like normal people 😂
"you see there's no waste to clean off. Now the next step, clean off the waste"
Guy: “Square cut”
My brain: it’s a circle
Edit: thanks for the 500 sorry if you didn’t understand the joke
Ur comment:
My brain: so ur a know it all?
Square cut... meaning perpendicular to the axis of the pipe...
@@Scaliad circumference
@@Scaliad pretty sure it was a joke dude
360° square = 360° circle
That sham-for tool looks cool! 🙌
I wasn’t the only one who heard it! Lmao it’s not champagne 🤦🏻♂️
“No waste for you to clean out”
I can’t be the only one that finds cleaning the waste out a tad bit satisfying
Doing a demo running the cutter backward always makes a good impression
Ain't it funny when the plumber finds an hvac guy's tools lol
Don't worry about the 2 inches dog 😭😂
This takes me back to the days of working as a metal trade for plumbers. Some of the best experience I’ve gotten.
I've been using one of those cutters for 30 years.
This dude really showing off ancient plumbing techniques...
I know nothing about plumbing but as an engineering enthusiast, I can appreciate these tools....
I’m not a plumber or work with PVC at all but I still watch this twice
Reed definitely makes the best wheel cutters. There's a blade inside the cutters for quick duburring.
That's a good set for sure.. I use them a lot.
Who makes these?
Ya brother who makes these .
@@rafaelrcordova171 I'm not sure... it's not like a big brand where the name is stamped on the tool and the case... I'll have to check
I’m a plumber, I do service plumbing so I don’t pull this bad boy out like every day but I will say I do like it and prefer it over sawzall, a nice straight cut every time, I’d recommend getting one if you don’t already have one
Or you can put the glue on it, and slide it right in.. no fuss..
...If you like going back and fixing leaks... but if you want to be sure it will hold this is the best way to go. I need one of these because I have been using a grinder to chamfer.
Never have had that problem.
Ever.. and I'm old, so probably been around longer than you.
Why do boomers in the trades have to be assholes 🤦🏻♂️.
@@elciscozamora being old doesn’t mean that you have been doing it right, sure u can get it done how u want but damn sure im shaving a bit off so it seats and has a better hold
@@bransontucker2606 how does removing material give a better hold? hint: it doesn't. that's why friction fit is a thing and "remove material for a void fit" isn't. stick to fortnite ya fuckin zoomer
as someone who is going to be tackling a complete home restoration. this is a gem of knowledge. I love finding tips and tricks to make the quality of my work better. Thanks ^-^
Those two tools total about 300 dollars by the way.
I use an electric Milwaukee pipe shear. Cuts up to 2 inch sch80
Me too. Saves a ton of time
Hvy duty
Me too, just used it recently and I wish I bought it sooner
I dont do much plumbing work, however i dont think i have ever had an issue with pieces not fitting together. With that said that cutting tool is nice.
I have zero need for that, but looks like it works well!!!
Great tools! Thanks for the links
as soon as you add glue it would have slipped ALL the way in. A lip curved in toward the fitting can cause problems on the future when being snaked.
This specific pipe is for venting condensing furnaces so that shouldn't be an issue
Was thinking the same thing
@@disquiet3163 Thinking obviously isn't either of yalls strong suit.
A square cut will squeegee away more glue. That 15° chamfer forces more glue into the joint.
Little lube goes a long way.
I've been tinbashing furnaces for a few decades...a few years after high efficiency furnaces became code the boss sent me to a venting course that instructed this method. You also have to chamfer because the pipe cutters flare out the end a bit...I did it this way for while then back to the Sawzall....
I see how it looks way better like an actual weld . But how much stronger does this make it? And also how does it compare to what we most all usually do .
I’ve used both of these it’s actually a very nice pairing
My boss would be asking what I did all day hahahahahaha
I was just thinking that. Aint no way anybody but a homeowner got time for that lol
I only use pvc for residential furnaces and power vent water heaters, so it's not every day, and a 12v Hackzall works perfect. But for commercial work or large jobs this would be nice.
We use a simple mitre saw…clean, square, no deformation..quick..
Do you take your miter saw in crawl spaces and attics also?
@Treedom Vellacroix probably takes longer to get the pipe and measurements to the guy outside and then take them back inside to the attic then it does to just take the 2 small tools into the attic… lmao
Plastic and mitre saws don't play well together. Had to make a fixture to turn a steel flange once out of 5" Delrin round bar. My bandsaw was out of commission so i tried it on the mitre, used every screw clamp in the county to hold it down and could hardly push the saw through. But that's not the problem with mitres and plastic, it's that the plastic doesn't make chips, it makes molten strings that glues itself to any plastic, painted or clean metal surface and gums up the whole saw. Took a good hour or two to poke and pull all the chunks out of the thing
i like how he turned the fitting around with it already blocked with something. Nice sells pitch
My dad said he used the pipe cutter backwards.
Yup he did
Doesn’t really matter
@@1KsE1 it does if ya don't want another smack on the back of the head from dad.
Agreed! I thought the same thing. Just like when you use an adjustable crescent wrench: when tightening something (i.e., turning clockwise), the fixed jaw should be on the right, taking the bulk of the torque. Flip the wrench over when loosening something.
He did
litterally have that in Germany for ages and its the standard for every plumber
What tool is this?
Wheel cutter
Quality tools have no replacement
I was told the chamfer was to ensure the glue isn't all pushed out from the flat edge
Nice! 👌🏾👍🏾
It's nice when companies come up with an easier and faster way of doing things! This isn't one of them.
😂😂 LMFAO😂😂 💯
You sir are correct lmao
10-4 how many times do we wish they had pvc cutters for copper? 😂 Anybody else enjoy cutting copper? 🤣
I'm getting paid by the hour where is my hacksaw or metal wire 🤣🤣🤣
this tool been around for at least 10 yeaes, but yes inovation is clutch
The reed beveling tool is clutch for tight areas you can’t fit a grinder.
I'm not a plumber and I don't have anything to use your tools for but they are so fantastic that I would like to buy them just to play with them. 💯🔥💪🏻
I figured someone would buy it, and I knew it wouldn't be a plumber.
Reed does make excellent cutters. You get what you pay for. Or buy junk 6 times
Did you notice the tube cutter retracts
Very cool feature
Time is money
Exactly what I pointed out in another comment above in this post…
Love that cut.
Milwaukee 2 inch automatic pvc cutters works like a charm
How do they work in the winter? Never pulled the trigger on one because when I’ve used my manual cutter in the winter, it ends up cracking the cold pvc near the end of the cut
@@mattingegneri1077 yeah either way it's not perfect perfect but acceptable most of the time
In the winter it cracks 2in pipe
@@nickp3270 can and will
Saw one these at Menards yesterday, nice to see how it works
Is PVC pipe not required to knock the edge off the inside to minimize turbulence?
Most of the time it doesn’t leave a lip on the inside. If there is it’s not large enough to make a difference.
No it's definitely not required. To be honest 90% of plumbers do not ream copper inside and out before installing.
@@puffthestuff7445 I'm sure they don't but it does make a difference
@@danielcarter7657 didn't know you were an expert plumber.
@@puffthestuff7445 I pay attention and learn ........
Built in burr cutter..love REED
Meanwhile, I finished the job 2 hours ago and am onto the next job.
True
Still, would you use it if you had it . ?
@@Horace1993 I would try it but never purchase it. Don’t think it would last long on the job
@@Horace1993 it's a tool to have, and every tool has its place. But this is not the main tool for most jobs, a hacksaw works faster and is more versatile
Saw is my go to. All the fancy crap is just that crap
Been dealing with pvc for almost 20 years. Know what else works? A Sawzall your thumb and some primer before you glue. It's a crazy concept I know.
Demonstrating a ‘new’ PVC cutter that requires 360 degrees of unrestricted movement around the pipe, which you almost never have. That is such a terrible idea. Nothing wrong with a sawzall or better yet, a PVC shear!!
I'd probably buy one for new construction, not service. The chamfer tool though would be nice if it worked on all kinds of sizes
@@brianc3481 chamfer tool is there because the cutting tool puts a raised edge on the pvc.
Use a 1/2” drive adaptor for sockets on the back of the reamer to ream the pipe with a drill. Works great on 4” sch 80 pvc. Saves strain on your wrist when doing a lot of pvc work.
I'm sure that works well. But by the time you used your fancy tools. I just roughed a house
I was just thinking that very same thing
Idk, with anything, muscle memory makes it quicker I’m sure someone could used these equally as fast as you. I think the bevel is overkill tbh, and I’m also pretty sure that cutter only cuts foam core pvc so it’s kinda useless tbh
You just have to change the blade every other day! What a steal!
Damn I’ve been cutting squares wrong my whole life 😭
You've got to cut your squares like 🔴. Who knew!
That deburring tool would be awesome for dryfitting
I'm sorry, but really? It looks like a swell product, but I really doubt and plumber in a tunnel under a house with dirt in their asscrack and sweat in their eyes, is gonna use anything other than a Sawzall... just speaking from experience
Wrong
Love it.... I need the deburr tool.
Imagine having a tool that cuts so cleanly you have to still use the deburring tool because perfection wasnt meant to fit in the fitting xD
chamfer
Love me a good tubing cutter
"Ya, I'm paid by the hour. Why do you ask?"
The reason your not getting full engagement of the fitting is when you use tube cutters you displace the blade volume on either side of the cutter causing a larger diameter
That is why once you chamfer pipe you get full engagement
Also if you don’t debur with this system the female fitting will have the majority of glue pushed off when the over size male end is pushed on to the fitting
thats foam core pvc.
lemme see you do regular!
Good solution for a problem that doesn't exist.
My boss would be screaming at me if I took this long to cut and deburr a pipe
I've been cutting schedule 40 pipe with a saw and have done that for years and work still is good
Can't argue with perfection
Wheel cutters cause the end of the pipe to flare slightly. Deburring removes that flare. A sawzall and file do the job but this is quicker and neater.
Nice tool
The hustle continues
Reed always quality
Ahhh a machinist at heart
You can use a chopsaw, a hacksaw, or my favorite a coping saw to cut pipe just fine. However, this is a nice, clean cut, and the ability to slide the pipe in all the way without glue to check the fit is really helpful when building drain systems
Theres a 3D printable STL file for $3 on cults3d called pipe sharpener that fits multiple sizes of PVC and has built in slots for blades that are offset to 15 degrees. Its essentially this but for $7 in materials if you have a printer, or $20 if you facebook a printing service to print it for you.
I love these. Hand tools are always a good option to have
Ikr bro perfect square cut
Worked subcontract for reed tools. I live where they are in erie pa. Made in taiwan "assembled" in usa.
You should call that beast ‘The Bobbitt’!! 😂
I bring one of my miter saws to job site. Proper blade does a great job. Maybe just got tired of replacing cutting wheels on my cutters.
Good bless plumbing. I wish I would have had these tools when I was changing out the pipes in my hot tub. All the pipes froze and cracked.
Works like a pencil sharpener 👍🏼
Thank you for touching on deburring/chanffering tools. Just had some guy say he was cleaning the end.. no dude🙄 it's for the glue to stick to
Lol, the glue is supposed to be lead by primer, which softens the pvc. Then the glue upon curing actually melts the pvc together (well sort if it's a chemical reaction before you get started on me). The edge has nothing to do with the "sticking together" of pipes.
I like the square cut
People here making it seems like this is useless when its actually very important as it will spread the glue evenly instead of pushing it to the end. This is just called doing a thorough and good job.
Not necessary. A steady hand, a reciprocating saw, and proper application of glue and primer will give you a clean fit every time.
Solvent actually softens the pvc so you can fit pieces together...no chamfer needed. And any pipe cutter with a sharp blade will cut pipe like that.
I’ve used hacksaws, jig saw,skill saw, and a grinder to cut pvc and Abs pipe just fine and you want me to buy another 2 tools
Sandpaper works great