I did it!! First time doing this and was a big sucess! I haven't scanned it but inspection under magnifier and light the pictures seems to be fine and clear. My film was a Kodak Gold 200 that I shot about 7 years ago and left in fridge since then. I was using a Nikor tank which has capacity of two rolls but I only put in one. My process is as below: 1. First development: I used a China BW60 developer mixed at 1:9, which should be equivalent to D-76 stock according to the instruction. I followed your suggestion to do a 5-stop push which translate to 13 minutes under 40.5C. 2. Wash: 1.5 minutes. 3. Re-exposure: I used a flashlight at around 260 lumin to go through the film from top to bottom for around 3 cycles on both sides. 4. Color development: normal C-41 CD at 37.8C for 3:15. As the film was shot at box speed I didn't make any adjustment on this step. 5-7. Bleach and fix each for 12 minutes. The standard C41 flexicolor kit suggests 6.5 minutes each for bleach and fix for small tank, which was what I did initially. But after final rinse during drying I realized some murky shadows appearing on the film in many places gradually. So I put it back to the tank and bleached and fixed for 5.5 minutes each and it came out all ok now. The good news is you have chance to rectify if there's any issue with bleach & fix, while in both development stage you need to really follow the steps rigorously. I was also supposed to wash (step 6) between bleach and fix but I forgot the first time and did it the second time when I redo bleach & fix. It didn't seem to matter in either way. 8. Wash: This time I washed for about 3.25 minutes to make sure all fixer is washed away. 9. Final rinse: Using stablier for 1.5 minutes. Then hang up and dry. On agitation I pretty much followed Kodak's instruction in CIS-211 but may be a bit more aggressive and I used two hands to do the rotation instead of one. The pictures came out with strong orange base of course but otherwise looks like normal slides. Highlights are clear and shadows are dark. Inspection under magnifier show normal level of grain but will only be able to tell after scan. There are some small black spots which could be due to the age of the film. Anyway, great experience and thank you for sharing this super cool process! I will scan the film later on and report if any additional findings.
i jsut did this and it was a great success! i used : Kodak color plus film (shot at 50 iso) , Kodak d76 as first dev, and the cinestill cs41 2barh kit . Steps : Use d76 for 12 min 27C• , alsmost agitating the whole time . Expose to light Cs-41 developer 2 min 100 fahrenheit (i’ve used it before so i added time ) Cs41 blix for 12 min at 80 fahrenheit
I've done c41 reversal for quite some time, and obviously get the ornage cast. What has caught my attention is that you can actually project it. I haven't had the chance to do it since my proyector needs a bulb. Gonna get it!! :)
I would think that if you could somehow make the bulb in the projector have an excessively bluish color temperature, then you could "blow out the other one's candle" so to speak, and get more neutral toned projections.
Great process video Kelly Shane!!I just processed my first roll of color negative into positive following your instructions. I used Ilford DD-X (1+4) as BW developer and a tetenal kit for the C-41. I shot a roll of 11 years expired Konica Centuria 400 (at 50 asa) and I am pleased with the results. It has this sepia/redscale look.Very cool looking images. If I may suggest something to enhance the content of your video, can you update the video description with your "recipe"? That will ease non-english speaker (at least not fluent ones) to enjoy your work. ;)
Awesome! Glad it worked out for you!! And thats a FANTASTIC idea Aurelien! I sometimes forget not everyone natively speaks English, I'll start adding those to my descriptions!
I'm thinking of doing this with Kodak Aerocolor, which has no orange base. I guess a pull wouldn't be needed and you could develop in C-41 for the normal times?
I wonder if you could add a blue filter in front of your lens when projecting to help aid in balancing out the warm color balance caused by the orange base of C-41.
I will add that this reversal process will also work for E-6 color slides, the difference is that E-6 has a clear base for projecting rather than an orange base.
Yep, it totally works with E6 too, its actually how I do *ALL* my E6 these days! I would expect that you could partially counteract the warmth with a blue filter, yes, but since you're going to get an orange base no matter what I'm not totally certain you could totally beat it that way. It'd absolutely be worth a shot though!
@@GoEverywhere What's really cool is that people are using this technique to get direct color prints from RA-4 color negative paper, either using the process to shoot the paper in large format cameras or to make prints from color slides. These use B/W paper dev for the first developer in total darkness, re-expose to light, and then do the standard RA-4 process in room light.
I DO think thats super cool, I've done it myself a few times but I've not quite gotten the filter packs correct. I may do a video on that sometime in the future if I can get the time to finish sorting that out because its a really fantastic result when you get it right!
I think you'd get rid of much of the remaining "warm cast" if you did this with one of Cinestill's tungsten-balanced converted Vision3 films. Those are designed to get a little bluer when printed to offset the yellow cast of tungsten light, and might come close to offsetting the orange base when reversed. The 800T would have the additional advantage of giving you a "medium" speed even when pulled two stops. And of course this exact process (without the two stop pull) will produce nice B&W slides if you start with XP2 Super, which has only a faint magenta base tint.
The way I would do this is take a picture with a digital camera then use a good flat panel TV and Gimp to invert the colors , then shoot it with an SLR camera on 1/15 of a second shutter priority with macro focus. Then develop with the C41 kit as usual. The hardest part is getting a hold of a camera that can shoot an electronic display screen good enough.
I got an idea. What if you would treat an Ilford XP2 film that way ? would this be b/w slides without the other aggressive/dangerous chemicals needed ?
If you were developing at home and never going near a commercial lab, then just use black and white film...you can develop it in coffee, washing soda, and crushed vitamin C pills, then use hydrogen peroxide and imitation lemon juice to bleach out the developed silver, then re develop in the coffee again. The problem I was having with this is that I can't seem to get a very deep black level...it looks like a cheap inkjet printer but with very good resolution. And before you ask me I did do the reversal process with color film, then stick the bleached light exposed film in the C-41 kit and the images are very faint and almost completely transparently orange. So until the Red Sox sweep the World Series 86 more times and by then I will get paid again and the Twinkies expire And I can afford a fresh C41 kit, I will just stick with the digital shooting the monitor method. Social Security is the paycheck that can stop a clock.
I tryed it, and it kinda worked... Sadly the film turned way to brown and the images didn't seem to have a lot of color in them. I probably used the wrong developer/dilution (Rodinal 1+25 at 12min) For color developing I used a fresh batch of Tetenal Colortech (1:30 minutes at 38°C) The film I used was Kodak Color Gold 200 pulled to 50 ISO. Maybe I'll try it again sometime, your results look amazing! :) I still had a lot of fun eventhough it didn't turn out the way I wanted it to.
@@GoEverywhere Hi, many thanks for the wonderful videos and I really learnt a lot! I have always been fasinated about the first developing process which seems to be totally different from any other "normal" processes. You mentioned 5 stop push here - is this how you come up with the 12 minutes developing time with HC-110? I tried to read the Kodak document on HC-110 but unfortunately it didn't give a clear indication on how much extra time needed for one stop push. And since you are running it at 102F, which is way above the normal temp for B&W development, it's getting even more confusing when calculating the time. Sorry for the jabber but I'm just trying to understand the magic behind this step so that hopefully I can apply similar methods to other B&W developers as I may not have HC-110 handy sometimes...
@@theinvinciblemagician6609 I actually came up with the 12 minutes in HC-110 by experimentation. What you're trying to do is reach the point of 100% development to completion without developing extra base fog. It comes out with HC-110 to *around* 5 stops push to achieve that. Others have said roughly 5 stops push has worked well for other developers as well but I've not personally tried it. The increase in temperature was two fold, first at room temp my times were getting very long, second I was having issues actually reaching complete development at room temp. But as soon as I raised the temperature I achieved it. So you MIGHT have to do that with other developers as well. Good luck!!
I've just tried color reversing ecn-2 fuji film. BW developing 12 and 28 mins 2 attempts. Nice and dense negatives in both cases actually. But it seems like ecn-2 chemistry forms dye even if silver is developed already. It has CD-3, not CD-4 agent. So I had dense black film where images are slightly visible and are still negative! Even though the frames are slightly lighter than the rest of the film. So it kinda worked a little bit. But E6 also has that CD-3 agent. So I have no Idea what went wrong. And right before the fixer it seems like there is definitely a dark film with light rectangles.
Yeah, ECN-2 uses the same dev as E6, which should work fine. Usually if its black at the end you're under developing in the first developer, but you said you did 28 minutes. That should totally be enough time. What temperature are you doing the process at?
Hi. This is very interesting method. I definitely have to try this very soon. But before I actually get started, I have a few questions. I hope you could give me some advise. If it's not the case, I'll be the first one trying. 1. Can I dry the film throughly before I get started with C41 process? I was wondering if I could dry it after making the silver mask with BW developer and light exposure. So just hang to try after the first step. And then bring that film to the lab to auto-process with c-41. 2. Will the blix work even after the film is completely dry? Like I said so, if I process it in the lab c41 machine, the film will come out completely dry. So can I re-soak it into the Blix to wash off leftover silver particles?
Yes, you could dry the film before you start the C41 process. The only thing you'll wanna avoid is leaving it out in strong light. While it is mostly light safe at this point, since you have undeveloped silver in the film still you could eventually solarize the film (Sun develop it). But yes you could easily dry it, roll it back in a canister, and send it to a lab for processing. Blix will work fine even after the film has been dried, no problems there.
So would this work if I shoot a normal roll of Kodak Gold say at its native box speed, use the same development for HC-110 times, and same C-41 times OR do I need to do the two stops over? Thanks
I take it off the spool and wave it in front of a lamp or lightbulb. Almost any light source will do... I've gotten pretty good at respooling them wet but I'll agree its a bit of a skill. I've been told you can get away with exposing it on the spool if you go longer but I've never tried it personally.
So I would love a little bit of help. I tried this out with Kodak Ultramax shot at 100 and the slides came out very transparent. I put it in HC-110 dialution B at 36C (I couldn't get it warmer with my setup) for 14:30. There's about a 12.5% difference between 105F (40.55555....C) and 36C (96.8F), so I increased the development time of 12 minutes with 12.5% to 13:30, but I developed it a little too long without realising it. Afterwards I followed the steps: pull 2 stops (30 seconds per stop with the tetanol C-41 kit), then blixed for 6 minutes (+50%), rinsed 6 times for 30 seconds and finally put it in the stab for 1 minute. If the images come out as 'overexposed', very transparent in other words, where should I change up my process?
My guess is your first developing with HC-110 was too long. Basically how it works is that in first developing you convert exposed silver halide into silver, then exposed the unexposed silver halide. Then in C41 developing, you basically dye the newly exposed silver halide, and then wash everything (silver and silver halide) away, to leave only color on the film. If your first developing was too long, you would "overconvert" too much silver halide into silver, then there's not much left to be exposed again before the C41 developing, hence not much to be converted to color, hence it would appear to be overexposed. Try reducing your first developing time. Usually HC-110 is used at between 20-25C in BW developing. I would guess 36C vs. 40C is not such a big difference in this case, but it's all try & error. Hope you have already solved your problem.
Another possiblity might be because you didn't expose the film to a light source long enough after first development and before color development. I have seen others saying that you rather overexpose at this stage than under because there should not be much left there to be exposed with anyway at this stage.
Hey i got one question, i am far away from knowing anything in this film world. But i read that kodak ektar has a different iso, when shot in tungsten light otherwise introducing a warm color cast, maybe it's worth a try to add one or two stops extra when shooting in tungsten light maybe that would fix the problem
All daylight-balanced films need a correction of the exposure-settings when you photograph with tungsten light. Because tungsten light has a lower blue-content than daylight, you have to compensate for that with a color conversion filter nr. 80A. This filter dampens the excess red and yellow. It’s basically an optical high-pass filter. Alternatively, if you scan the negatives, you can overexpose Ektar 100 by two stops and correct the images later digitally. You want to avoid underexposure of print film. Much more convenient would be to use a tungsten-light balanced film in the first place. But even this requires exposure compensation and a filter (but far less). Those films are designed with photo lamps in mind (Nitraphot), which is something like a halogen lamp on steroids. These lamps have a higher color temperature of 3200-3400K.
I thought the pull process happened in BW developing stage. Because C41 color process is done to completion hence cutting time in C41 must be avoided. Please correct if I'm wrong.
Normally you're right, normal pull process would reduce in the BW stage, but we're ONLY pulling in the C41 to reduce the amount of orange base that's developing so we actually *DO* want to reduce the C41 dev time in this instance.
It should work fine with rodenal too, but you'll be on your own for development times. Take a look through the comments though. Some others have tried other developers and posted the results.
It MIGHT help, I've never tried. But a 5 stop pull is a LOT. I'm not sure what that'd end up doing to other parts of the color. But hey, experimentation is part of the fun right?
Now THATS an interesting thought. Probably not correctly balanced, but it would be much warmer... I have a bunch of that in the fridge, might just have to follow up on this one! and see how it turns out.
@@GoEverywhere since I'm stuck inside and bored, I thought I'll just bother you again and ask if there's an update. Also thanks for making the video on slide film reversal with c41 chems!
@@theo_korner I've been stuck inside and bored too, which means I've not shot much of anything in almost a month now. I'll see if I can shoot some 500T around the house and find out.
Hi so i was just wondering is hc-110 reusable or is it just a one use only? Cause i just made a super 8 developing tank and i dont have access to e6 chems
@@GoEverywhere well how long is the shelf life once mixed? C41 states its shelf life is about 3-4 months mixed so im guessing hc-110b is about a month or a few weeks mixed?
HC-110 comes as a concentrate. That concentrate lasts just about forever. I've used bottles that are YEARS old and are still fine. You just keep it as the concentrate and mix the final mix right before you use it, no problems.
I did it with the original box iso at the first time and was a suces but then i pull 2 stops in another roll as youre video sasys but just get a transparent film😂. Im stil trying by the way, is a really good tutorial video👍🏽.
i think you misunderstood 😂 but that’s fine! im glad it worked . but you have to push the film when shooting . so lower the iso . and pull the c41 dev time :) good luck!
..can you please give us some now details about the temperature of the black and white development using d76 stock? And do we need to fix after developing first on black and white or not? ..did you say you blitched twice?? Also after the first b&w process and then after the c41? ..or only at the end after the c41 Process? Please CAn you help.. I am about to try on expired Kodak 120mm color film. Thanks
Unfortunately you're on your own for D76 first developer, it should work but I don't often use D76 so I don't have a time... Try for about a 5 stop push or so... Do NOT fix after the B&W development, that'll remove the remaining silver from the image which you need to have to continue the process, only blix at the end. Good luck!!
I ran a test roll and...NO, you do NOT need to use any hydrogen peroxide/imitation lemon juice solution to make this happen. Just develop the color run over the black and white run just as if you are recording over a cassette tape. I got positive images in the correct colors, save for the trademark orange cast of C-41 color film. The images aren't very strong but that might be because I only ran the first color bath for 7 minutes...I probably needed to go longer. Definitely go do the blix for 16 minutes, though.
@@GoEverywhere so these steps are correct for e6 film right? b&w developer . Re expose And then normal temp and dev time for color developer and 12 min blix ? (i use cinestill cs41 2 bath kit)
I think I've seen using hc110 and c41 to develop normal slide film into slides, have you tried that before? I'm trying to not have 10,000 chemicals in my cabinet
Absolutely! I've been doing it that way for years, its the only way I do E6 film. Not having a ton of chemistry and the fact the E6 kits expire fairly quickly are exactly why I do it that way. I'm likely going to release a tutorial on that one too in the future, just to round out the reversal process tutorials.
Too bad nobody patronized Rollei CN200 film: a C41 negative film with no printing mask. I think they thought it would have been just the thing for scanning, but it's gone.
I did it!! First time doing this and was a big sucess! I haven't scanned it but inspection under magnifier and light the pictures seems to be fine and clear. My film was a Kodak Gold 200 that I shot about 7 years ago and left in fridge since then. I was using a Nikor tank which has capacity of two rolls but I only put in one. My process is as below:
1. First development: I used a China BW60 developer mixed at 1:9, which should be equivalent to D-76 stock according to the instruction. I followed your suggestion to do a 5-stop push which translate to 13 minutes under 40.5C.
2. Wash: 1.5 minutes.
3. Re-exposure: I used a flashlight at around 260 lumin to go through the film from top to bottom for around 3 cycles on both sides.
4. Color development: normal C-41 CD at 37.8C for 3:15. As the film was shot at box speed I didn't make any adjustment on this step.
5-7. Bleach and fix each for 12 minutes. The standard C41 flexicolor kit suggests 6.5 minutes each for bleach and fix for small tank, which was what I did initially. But after final rinse during drying I realized some murky shadows appearing on the film in many places gradually. So I put it back to the tank and bleached and fixed for 5.5 minutes each and it came out all ok now. The good news is you have chance to rectify if there's any issue with bleach & fix, while in both development stage you need to really follow the steps rigorously. I was also supposed to wash (step 6) between bleach and fix but I forgot the first time and did it the second time when I redo bleach & fix. It didn't seem to matter in either way.
8. Wash: This time I washed for about 3.25 minutes to make sure all fixer is washed away.
9. Final rinse: Using stablier for 1.5 minutes.
Then hang up and dry.
On agitation I pretty much followed Kodak's instruction in CIS-211 but may be a bit more aggressive and I used two hands to do the rotation instead of one.
The pictures came out with strong orange base of course but otherwise looks like normal slides. Highlights are clear and shadows are dark. Inspection under magnifier show normal level of grain but will only be able to tell after scan. There are some small black spots which could be due to the age of the film.
Anyway, great experience and thank you for sharing this super cool process! I will scan the film later on and report if any additional findings.
Very cool! Sounds like a win to me!
i jsut did this and it was a great success! i used : Kodak color plus film (shot at 50 iso) , Kodak d76 as first dev, and the cinestill cs41 2barh kit .
Steps :
Use d76 for 12 min 27C• , alsmost agitating the whole time .
Expose to light
Cs-41 developer 2 min 100 fahrenheit (i’ve used it before so i added time )
Cs41 blix for 12 min at 80 fahrenheit
I've done c41 reversal for quite some time, and obviously get the ornage cast. What has caught my attention is that you can actually project it. I haven't had the chance to do it since my proyector needs a bulb. Gonna get it!! :)
You sure can!! There's nothing quite like projecting reversals either. It's kinda magic.
I would think that if you could somehow make the bulb in the projector have an excessively bluish color temperature, then you could "blow out the other one's candle" so to speak, and get more neutral toned projections.
Great process video Kelly Shane!!I just processed my first roll of color negative into positive following your instructions. I used Ilford DD-X (1+4) as BW developer and a tetenal kit for the C-41. I shot a roll of 11 years expired Konica Centuria 400 (at 50 asa) and I am pleased with the results. It has this sepia/redscale look.Very cool looking images. If I may suggest something to enhance the content of your video, can you update the video description with your "recipe"? That will ease non-english speaker (at least not fluent ones) to enjoy your work. ;)
Awesome! Glad it worked out for you!! And thats a FANTASTIC idea Aurelien! I sometimes forget not everyone natively speaks English, I'll start adding those to my descriptions!
I'm thinking of doing this with Kodak Aerocolor, which has no orange base. I guess a pull wouldn't be needed and you could develop in C-41 for the normal times?
I wonder if you could add a blue filter in front of your lens when projecting to help aid in balancing out the warm color balance caused by the orange base of C-41.
I will add that this reversal process will also work for E-6 color slides, the difference is that E-6 has a clear base for projecting rather than an orange base.
Yep, it totally works with E6 too, its actually how I do *ALL* my E6 these days!
I would expect that you could partially counteract the warmth with a blue filter, yes, but since you're going to get an orange base no matter what I'm not totally certain you could totally beat it that way. It'd absolutely be worth a shot though!
@@GoEverywhere What's really cool is that people are using this technique to get direct color prints from RA-4 color negative paper, either using the process to shoot the paper in large format cameras or to make prints from color slides. These use B/W paper dev for the first developer in total darkness, re-expose to light, and then do the standard RA-4 process in room light.
I DO think thats super cool, I've done it myself a few times but I've not quite gotten the filter packs correct. I may do a video on that sometime in the future if I can get the time to finish sorting that out because its a really fantastic result when you get it right!
Fantastic, would never have thought it would be so simple.
Its really not too bad. Little harder than normal c41, but not by much.
I think you'd get rid of much of the remaining "warm cast" if you did this with one of Cinestill's tungsten-balanced converted Vision3 films. Those are designed to get a little bluer when printed to offset the yellow cast of tungsten light, and might come close to offsetting the orange base when reversed. The 800T would have the additional advantage of giving you a "medium" speed even when pulled two stops. And of course this exact process (without the two stop pull) will produce nice B&W slides if you start with XP2 Super, which has only a faint magenta base tint.
The way I would do this is take a picture with a digital camera then use a good flat panel TV and Gimp to invert the colors , then shoot it with an SLR camera on 1/15 of a second shutter priority with macro focus. Then develop with the C41 kit as usual. The hardest part is getting a hold of a camera that can shoot an electronic display screen good enough.
I just discovered you channel and am now in love with this content.
Thanks Rory, welcome to my little corner of RUclips!
Love that little projector!
Right? Its such a cool little thing. I've been pairing it with my Olympus Pen F lately, since both it and the projector are 35mm half frame.
Fantastic! This is a very cool technique
Thanks Carter! I can't take all the credit for it, I'm not the first to do it but it is a lot of fun!
Wow, that is a process!
Good work finding a combination that works!
Yeah, got quite a few steps to it, no lies! But its fun for a little bit different look!
I got an idea. What if you would treat an Ilford XP2 film that way ? would this be b/w slides without the other aggressive/dangerous chemicals needed ?
It totally works, I've done with with Kodak BW400CN with good results. Its still technically color film so it all applies.
If you were developing at home and never going near a commercial lab, then just use black and white film...you can develop it in coffee, washing soda, and crushed vitamin C pills, then use hydrogen peroxide and imitation lemon juice to bleach out the developed silver, then re develop in the coffee again. The problem I was having with this is that I can't seem to get a very deep black level...it looks like a cheap inkjet printer but with very good resolution. And before you ask me I did do the reversal process with color film, then stick the bleached light exposed film in the C-41 kit and the images are very faint and almost completely transparently orange. So until the Red Sox sweep the World Series 86 more times and by then I will get paid again and the Twinkies expire And I can afford a fresh C41 kit, I will just stick with the digital shooting the monitor method. Social Security is the paycheck that can stop a clock.
Again bro with the good stuff that posts up
Appreciate that!
I tryed it, and it kinda worked...
Sadly the film turned way to brown and the images didn't seem to have a lot of color in them.
I probably used the wrong developer/dilution (Rodinal 1+25 at 12min)
For color developing I used a fresh batch of Tetenal Colortech (1:30 minutes at 38°C)
The film I used was Kodak Color Gold 200 pulled to 50 ISO.
Maybe I'll try it again sometime, your results look amazing! :)
I still had a lot of fun eventhough it didn't turn out the way I wanted it to.
Yeah, I've never tried Rodinal as the first dev, but it should work. The times won't be the same though. Try the times for about a 5 stop push.
@@GoEverywhere Hi, many thanks for the wonderful videos and I really learnt a lot! I have always been fasinated about the first developing process which seems to be totally different from any other "normal" processes. You mentioned 5 stop push here - is this how you come up with the 12 minutes developing time with HC-110? I tried to read the Kodak document on HC-110 but unfortunately it didn't give a clear indication on how much extra time needed for one stop push. And since you are running it at 102F, which is way above the normal temp for B&W development, it's getting even more confusing when calculating the time. Sorry for the jabber but I'm just trying to understand the magic behind this step so that hopefully I can apply similar methods to other B&W developers as I may not have HC-110 handy sometimes...
@@theinvinciblemagician6609 I actually came up with the 12 minutes in HC-110 by experimentation. What you're trying to do is reach the point of 100% development to completion without developing extra base fog. It comes out with HC-110 to *around* 5 stops push to achieve that. Others have said roughly 5 stops push has worked well for other developers as well but I've not personally tried it.
The increase in temperature was two fold, first at room temp my times were getting very long, second I was having issues actually reaching complete development at room temp. But as soon as I raised the temperature I achieved it. So you MIGHT have to do that with other developers as well.
Good luck!!
I've just tried color reversing ecn-2 fuji film. BW developing 12 and 28 mins 2 attempts. Nice and dense negatives in both cases actually. But it seems like ecn-2 chemistry forms dye even if silver is developed already. It has CD-3, not CD-4 agent. So I had dense black film where images are slightly visible and are still negative! Even though the frames are slightly lighter than the rest of the film. So it kinda worked a little bit.
But E6 also has that CD-3 agent. So I have no Idea what went wrong. And right before the fixer it seems like there is definitely a dark film with light rectangles.
Yeah, ECN-2 uses the same dev as E6, which should work fine. Usually if its black at the end you're under developing in the first developer, but you said you did 28 minutes. That should totally be enough time. What temperature are you doing the process at?
Hi. This is very interesting method. I definitely have to try this very soon. But before I actually get started, I have a few questions. I hope you could give me some advise. If it's not the case, I'll be the first one trying.
1. Can I dry the film throughly before I get started with C41 process?
I was wondering if I could dry it after making the silver mask with BW developer and light exposure. So just hang to try after the first step. And then bring that film to the lab to auto-process with c-41.
2. Will the blix work even after the film is completely dry?
Like I said so, if I process it in the lab c41 machine, the film will come out completely dry. So can I re-soak it into the Blix to wash off leftover silver particles?
Yes, you could dry the film before you start the C41 process. The only thing you'll wanna avoid is leaving it out in strong light. While it is mostly light safe at this point, since you have undeveloped silver in the film still you could eventually solarize the film (Sun develop it). But yes you could easily dry it, roll it back in a canister, and send it to a lab for processing.
Blix will work fine even after the film has been dried, no problems there.
So would this work if I shoot a normal roll of Kodak Gold say at its native box speed, use the same development for HC-110 times, and same C-41 times OR do I need to do the two stops over?
Thanks
for me normal box speed works , but it’s a little dark c the two stops is recommended
How do I expose an entire film negative slide to light ? And normally I doubt I could respool the wet negative slide back on the spool ...
I take it off the spool and wave it in front of a lamp or lightbulb. Almost any light source will do... I've gotten pretty good at respooling them wet but I'll agree its a bit of a skill. I've been told you can get away with exposing it on the spool if you go longer but I've never tried it personally.
@@GoEverywhere I‘m considering using an ancient flash light and flash it from either side and above and below...
I'd think that'd work. Its hard to over expose that step, so go for a lot of light.
So I would love a little bit of help. I tried this out with Kodak Ultramax shot at 100 and the slides came out very transparent. I put it in HC-110 dialution B at 36C (I couldn't get it warmer with my setup) for 14:30. There's about a 12.5% difference between 105F (40.55555....C) and 36C (96.8F), so I increased the development time of 12 minutes with 12.5% to 13:30, but I developed it a little too long without realising it. Afterwards I followed the steps: pull 2 stops (30 seconds per stop with the tetanol C-41 kit), then blixed for 6 minutes (+50%), rinsed 6 times for 30 seconds and finally put it in the stab for 1 minute.
If the images come out as 'overexposed', very transparent in other words, where should I change up my process?
My guess is your first developing with HC-110 was too long. Basically how it works is that in first developing you convert exposed silver halide into silver, then exposed the unexposed silver halide. Then in C41 developing, you basically dye the newly exposed silver halide, and then wash everything (silver and silver halide) away, to leave only color on the film. If your first developing was too long, you would "overconvert" too much silver halide into silver, then there's not much left to be exposed again before the C41 developing, hence not much to be converted to color, hence it would appear to be overexposed. Try reducing your first developing time. Usually HC-110 is used at between 20-25C in BW developing. I would guess 36C vs. 40C is not such a big difference in this case, but it's all try & error. Hope you have already solved your problem.
Another possiblity might be because you didn't expose the film to a light source long enough after first development and before color development. I have seen others saying that you rather overexpose at this stage than under because there should not be much left there to be exposed with anyway at this stage.
Can you use the same technique for black-and-white film to get a black and white positive?
No, you cannot. However I *DO* have a tutorial on how to make black and white positives on my channel here ruclips.net/video/XVOgi3QcGzk/видео.html
Hey i got one question, i am far away from knowing anything in this film world. But i read that kodak ektar has a different iso, when shot in tungsten light otherwise introducing a warm color cast, maybe it's worth a try to add one or two stops extra when shooting in tungsten light maybe that would fix the problem
All daylight-balanced films need a correction of the exposure-settings when you photograph with tungsten light. Because tungsten light has a lower blue-content than daylight, you have to compensate for that with a color conversion filter nr. 80A. This filter dampens the excess red and yellow. It’s basically an optical high-pass filter. Alternatively, if you scan the negatives, you can overexpose Ektar 100 by two stops and correct the images later digitally. You want to avoid underexposure of print film. Much more convenient would be to use a tungsten-light balanced film in the first place. But even this requires exposure compensation and a filter (but far less). Those films are designed with photo lamps in mind (Nitraphot), which is something like a halogen lamp on steroids. These lamps have a higher color temperature of 3200-3400K.
I thought the pull process happened in BW developing stage. Because C41 color process is done to completion hence cutting time in C41 must be avoided. Please correct if I'm wrong.
Normally you're right, normal pull process would reduce in the BW stage, but we're ONLY pulling in the C41 to reduce the amount of orange base that's developing so we actually *DO* want to reduce the C41 dev time in this instance.
@@GoEverywhere Ah I see. Didn't think about that orange base. That's interesting approach to reduce it. I may be try that someday. Thank you.
Its not perfect, it doesn't TOTALLY remove it, but it does reduce it by quite a bit.
Have you any 💡 it will work with Rodinal developer?
It should work fine with rodenal too, but you'll be on your own for development times. Take a look through the comments though. Some others have tried other developers and posted the results.
Would a cooling filter in daylight help deal with the overall warmness of the pictures?
Hmm, thats an interesting idea.... MAYBE? Thinking it through I'm not certain. I might have to give it a try and see.
@@GoEverywhere ...that said, what you got wasn't unpleasant! But maybe something to test out next time you try this method out. Good job anyhow!
Totally, its always fun to get input like this. Gives me something new to think about for next time! Thanks :)
Would it be a bad idea to try pull processing 5 stops to further reduce the mask?
It MIGHT help, I've never tried. But a 5 stop pull is a LOT. I'm not sure what that'd end up doing to other parts of the color. But hey, experimentation is part of the fun right?
I wonder if Kodak Vision 3 500 T would be daylight balanced if you'd reverse it like this
Now THATS an interesting thought. Probably not correctly balanced, but it would be much warmer... I have a bunch of that in the fridge, might just have to follow up on this one! and see how it turns out.
@@GoEverywhere Did you have any success trying it yet?
@@theo_korner not yet, but I'm almost done with a roll of 500T so I'll likely try soon.
@@GoEverywhere since I'm stuck inside and bored, I thought I'll just bother you again and ask if there's an update. Also thanks for making the video on slide film reversal with c41 chems!
@@theo_korner I've been stuck inside and bored too, which means I've not shot much of anything in almost a month now. I'll see if I can shoot some 500T around the house and find out.
Hi so i was just wondering is hc-110 reusable or is it just a one use only? Cause i just made a super 8 developing tank and i dont have access to e6 chems
Hc-110B is kinda one shot... You can re-use it a time or two immediately but it doesn't last too long once mixed.
@@GoEverywhere well how long is the shelf life once mixed? C41 states its shelf life is about 3-4 months mixed so im guessing hc-110b is about a month or a few weeks mixed?
HC-110 comes as a concentrate. That concentrate lasts just about forever. I've used bottles that are YEARS old and are still fine. You just keep it as the concentrate and mix the final mix right before you use it, no problems.
@@GoEverywhere so does it say how much to mix on the bottle cause i ordered some from cinestill and it was about a liter of the chemical
It should, though if it doesn't dilution B is a ratio of 1:31.
I did it with the original box iso at the first time and was a suces but then i pull 2 stops in another roll as youre video sasys but just get a transparent film😂. Im stil trying by the way, is a really good tutorial video👍🏽.
i think you misunderstood 😂 but that’s fine! im glad it worked . but you have to push the film when shooting . so lower the iso . and pull the c41 dev time :) good luck!
also i have a question because i wanna try . after the b&w developer . doesn’t exposing it to light ruin it ? what changes ?
Loved it :-)
..can you please give us some now details about the temperature of the black and white development using d76 stock? And do we need to fix after developing first on black and white or not? ..did you say you blitched twice?? Also after the first b&w process and then after the c41? ..or only at the end after the c41 Process? Please CAn you help.. I am about to try on expired Kodak 120mm color film. Thanks
Unfortunately you're on your own for D76 first developer, it should work but I don't often use D76 so I don't have a time... Try for about a 5 stop push or so...
Do NOT fix after the B&W development, that'll remove the remaining silver from the image which you need to have to continue the process, only blix at the end.
Good luck!!
I ran a test roll and...NO, you do NOT need to use any hydrogen peroxide/imitation lemon juice solution to make this happen. Just develop the color run over the black and white run just as if you are recording over a cassette tape. I got positive images in the correct colors, save for the trademark orange cast of C-41 color film. The images aren't very strong but that might be because I only ran the first color bath for 7 minutes...I probably needed to go longer. Definitely go do the blix for 16 minutes, though.
Yeah, no need to do any hydrogen peroxide. Just follow the directions as posted and it works.
will this work with e6?
Sure will. I have another video showing me doing this with E6 film on my channel as well.
@@GoEverywhere alright thank you!!
@@GoEverywhere so these steps are correct for e6 film right?
b&w developer .
Re expose
And then normal temp and dev time for color developer
and 12 min blix ? (i use cinestill cs41 2 bath kit)
@@PhotoShutterLab yep, that should do it.
@@GoEverywhere i tried it. i LOVE the results so thank you so much !
I think I've seen using hc110 and c41 to develop normal slide film into slides, have you tried that before? I'm trying to not have 10,000 chemicals in my cabinet
Absolutely! I've been doing it that way for years, its the only way I do E6 film. Not having a ton of chemistry and the fact the E6 kits expire fairly quickly are exactly why I do it that way. I'm likely going to release a tutorial on that one too in the future, just to round out the reversal process tutorials.
@@GoEverywhere Yes please do a video on this! :)
This is very helpful. I tried this process with D76 and it didn't work. I've got some HC110 and will be trying this soon :)
Good luck, hope this works better for you!
how much time did you use ?, because i will try with D76 too
@@FeeltheBurningfilmd76 for 12 minutes worked for me , 30 Celsius
Too bad nobody patronized Rollei CN200 film: a C41 negative film with no printing mask. I think they thought it would have been just the thing for scanning, but it's gone.
For sure! I used to LOVE CN200. It really is a shame it didn't go anywhere.
What a BS.