I got GREAT results using 120 size Rollei Superpan 200 film (shot at ISO200) with 9mins @ 21deg First Development time. I highly recommend this kit, it makes the process easy. The Superpan film is super-panchromatic so I used an IR cut off filter (cutting out IR) because I prefer the look of this.
of course but when we are in trouble with your product, we have no answer. I Developed 2 films and it was a fail each time. After the clear bath, when I reexpose the film I could see the images, the film don't turn correctly "yellow". So I have got other film to process, and I am lost. Would you please fix my problem.
Hi Lina. Love your videos. Your enthusiasm for analog photography is very catchy. I've wanted to find a way to print photos I take as negative images in the darkroom. I now have a couple of ideas. :-). Thank you!
Agfa Scala is a process introduced in 1995. And nowadays there are many kits offering reversal (Klaus Wehner, Roba Apposta, Rollei, Foma) , but none have a stable worlwide shippable bleach bath, except Adox. They are good in their other ways too, of course.
is there a place to find developing times for this kit with foma r100? i just developed my first scala 50 and fell in love with it! the store i pruchased from olny carries the 50 and the r100 and i wanted to be able to find developing times to be able to use this kit with both films as its available.. any help would be greatly appreciated
I was brought here by your great Spectral sensitivity video. That one was super informative. I have really enjoyed the b/w and sepia slides that dr5film developed for me on some rolls of delta 100 and hp5 I shot. Their sepia slides are something you might find interesting, as I don't know of anywhere else where receiving sepia slides may be possible. Subscribed!
I am reminded of my own love affair with B&W slides, in 1961, shooting the Seattle World Fair at night. If you have the equipment and chemicals of a normal wet darkroom, there is a much cheaper, easier, and more efficient B&W slide process than shown here. You can use any normal B&W negative. You contract print that negative to B&W litho film, commonly in 4x5 inch sheets cut down to size needed. That litho film is then processed in Dektol paper developer, just like a normal paper print, under a safe light. By changing the dilution of the developer and the exposure of the contact print to litho film, you can control contrast and density. When done, you still have your original negative in tact. Requires no special exposure or processing. The only thing not off the shelf is the litho film, which is fairly cheap and available from all major photo suppliers.
That is a very interesting kit! Thanks for presentation. How large is the density range (or today they say "dynamic range") of that positive film compared with a negative film like Adox CHS 100? Is it over 7 stops? or less? Are there scalafilms for mediumformat? Thank you
In the past I used the Tetenal kit, unfortunately Tetenal stopped producing that kit, but nice to hear there is an alternative. In stead of getting into the "raw chemical route"
There are a few other ones, they just aren't as easily shippable worldwide and have a more hazardous bleach bath. But if you are in Europe, there is a choice!
@@linabessonova Im going to give it a try, quite curious about the results, the Tetenal kit contained indeed concentrated sulfuric acid and kalium permanganete. I think that was also one of the reasons that it was difficult to obtain those kits. Also Ilford ank Kodak made those kits long time ago, Ilford still has an PDF file of it www.ilfordphoto.com/reversal-processing/?___store=ilford_brochure&___from_store=ilford_uk Though I think this is much easier and handier, quite curious about the results with 120 format. (Or even try 4x5 there are though rare, 4x5 projectors exist and quite nice for an exhibition) Thanks for sharing the info and helping the photocommunity :)
The bleach looks like Potassium Permanganate which his easy to find recipes online. You will need some sulfuric acid to make. I make mine from concentrated sulfuric acid but you can make some with less concentrated like 20% if that makes you nervous. The hazardous kits Lina refers to have Potassium Dichromate which is illegal to ship most places as it is very toxic. What you buy with these kits is a recipe that works so you don't have to experiment with dilutions times and temperatures. As she says very easy for the beginner or those that just want something that works.
@@bigdogdougcambridge1008 there is an Ilford publication for reversal B&W process where apear a formula for it. I don’t remember it now, but for sure it include sulfuric acid.
i think may have done a roll in college photo class. will have to see if in my box of negs.thousands to re do,scan, print,enlarge. B&W negs are cool...
Hi Lina. I just developed my first film (reversal that is) of the Adox Scala 50. Everything worked it looks like. I think I overexposed in camera, I was using a Pentax ME with slightly iffy internal meter, plus it doesn't have ASA50 setting, it has two options between 32 and 64 ha ha, so I used one of those and set to 1 stop over exposure compensation. But there are nice deep blacks in some frames, and everything looks sharp. There is a very slight yellowish tint, that I think I see in your films on this video also, so maybe that's normal. The edges on the sprocket holes are completely black, so all the chemistry worked. I will do more tries with some exposure bracketing. I have an adapter on the way for making stereo 3D images on the Pentax, when that comes I will make 3D slides! I really want to do 120 film, Adox doesn't seem to have one any more, so probably will try FP4 or PanF 50 as some sites say they have generally lots of silver in the emulsion (also based on your other new video about Tgrain emulsions). Thanks!
Hi Lina, great video! About using it on paper. You said it lasted for around 4 18x20s. Is that for the 2 liters? Also is the developing and bleaching time same as with film? Im interested in trying it on an Afghan box camera. Thanks!
I rarely subscribe but you young lady have an infectious charm about a film I used so much a few years ago being the Agfa Scala 200 which I bought exclusively for my B&W photography. This is the only video I've watched I see there are more and will sort through them as time permits BUT, for right now I'm going to source out the developing kit. I did read a comment made about 120 film and your reply about Rollei films which I use now but not reversal. Can these film use the Scala B&W reversal kit and the same development technique? The very best to you Robert in Canada
I have some Rollei Superpan 200, Rollei Retro 80s and Adox CHS 100 II in my freezer which should be great film to reverse develop. However there are no developing times in your manual for these film stocks. Do you have any advice on how to procede with film that is yet untested with Adox Scala reversal developer?
Thx for an informative vid! Re reversing other films, if your base is grayish, couldn't one just use a stronger light when viewing them? Shouldn't it at some point appear white, if just illuminated sufficiently? Another q, how dangerous is the bleach bath? Is it permanganate or dichromate?
The bleach is not dangerous, it's hazmat-free and based on permarganate, which, in very diluted form, I was given for treating tonsillitis as a child :D As for the light - of course, the projected slides will still be "readable". But if you shine too much light to kill the grey, the beauty and subtlety of the soft tonal transitions will also be affected.
Sure, you could light an atomic bomb. The light of the projector also gives a lot of heat, so you can not put any amount of light trough a slide. (It will melt!) Maybe with the new LED lights this have changed. Still, why use films with a base that is not perfectly clear?
Hi there! I've been looking for this exact process for a while now, and even have two rolls of (likely expired) SCALA 120 film. I do have a couple of questions, though. First off, I noticed that when I was looking for black-and-white reversal processes, I noticed two main techniques, either using chemicals to bleach and re-expose the film, or using a jig to photograph the negatives onto other negatives, thereby making positives. Can you guys please help me understand what the benefits are of these? Also, since I'm a broke college student, do you know how I would bring down the cost of this process? In the past, I've even resorted to unspooling film and dividing it among a couple different cassettes to stretch the amount I have.
Thnaks for this video, at least I tried and failed yesterday. At the end the film looks like grey with a chemestry hidden a part of the image. I can see the image but it looks weird, like a "veil" on the film. Can u help me to fix the problem ?
This is really great news Lina!! I have a roll of Agfa Scala waiting for more than 12 years to be developed, I hope I can recover the images with this process!, do you think it's still possible? Thanks!
Agfa Scala is a process from the 80s, and there surely were non-commercial reversal processes before. There are many reversal kits: Klaus Wehner, Rollei, Foma, Roba Apposta and probably others... This one is low in hazardous contents and is worldwide shippable, that's the big difference.
@@linabessonova thank you for your answer. Practically all these reversal kits do the same thing but Adox is the coolest one because it is worldwide shippable.
Great job Lina! Question: Since colour slide film forces you to meter more precisely because of its narrow latitude does that mean that a bw negative film that is processed as slides also becomes a narrow latitude film? Keep up the good work!
In general, yes. But nevertheless you can be relaxed: If you know the simple basics of exposure, and if your exposure meter is working properly, it is absolutely no problem at all working with colour and BW reversal film and getting excellent results! I started using reversal film as a 14 year old with a Nikon FM, and even at a young beginner I had no problems at all to get correct exposure. Don't forget that dozens of millions of photographers have used reversal film since its invention over all the decades, and most of them had much worse equipment than we have today. Nevertheless they got excellent results.
Noo (( Maybe try ordering from Fotoimpex directly? I know a guy from Australia who buys from them. Okay it takes long to arrive + shipping is costly, but if you order enough, it might be same price as at an Australian dealer (I don't know for sure, but you might want to check this)
quick question about the chems, so basely, i just got a kit home, and I'm wondering after the 2 developer, can I reuse the same developer on more film or is it similar to normal one-shot developer that I after the finished developing, dump the chemistry?
I never tried it with other films. It's quite strong though, and lasts for quite a few sheets of paper when used afterwards. I would not be surprised if it did work on film. However, paper has less silver...
@@linabessonova thanks! I might try it some time so! probebly after I shore about the ins and outs of the kit! also, where do I find the times for different films other than scala 50 or 160? I've looked at Ilford datasheet which gives me a 12min first dev, 5 min bleach, 6 min 2 dev, do these times sound resemble? I'm planning on doing fp4 since it has a nice clearish base and is the fastest clear film I can find locally!
The only dev times given in the book with the kit are for Adox Scala 50 and Adox Scala 160, and they're pretty different. If I have some original Agfa Scala 200X, how should I develop it with this kit? 14 minutes at 20 degrees (50), 15 minutes at 24 degress (160), or something else?
Hi! Bill from studio C-41 tested it, and came out with 13-14 minutes at 20 degrees, bleach 6 mins constant agitation, 6 mins second developer. However, with old film it's hard to predict, as they are stored in different ways, and some deteriorate faster :(
@@linabessonova Thanks. I developed some earlier this evening before seeing this and did the 9 minutes at 24 that the sticker in the booklet has for Scala 160. I'll know for sure when I scan them in the morning, but just eyeballing it tonight, that looks really good to me.
@@dr5chrome896 I am sorry but how is it not true? None of the films you mentioned has crystal clear support. (Maybe tri-x when delivered as cinematic rolls, but that one is not produced anymore.)
@@dr5chrome896 You are right. It is pointless to argue with you. What you need is a visit to an oculist. If you dont see that those films are on a grey or blueish support than you are blind or dumb, probably both.
@@chelovekvsobake wait, so, it looks pale yellow when bleached, and you can see the outlines of the images, but then you expose 4 minutes, and develop again, and it's all black?
that's right. Fomapan R100 has a layer that should be bleached out. When I get to the second exposure, I can clearly see all the things I filmed on the emulsion side, but there is still a brown layer on the other side. Shouldn't that layer be gone by this stage? I am wondering if the bleach from Scala doesn't fir this film because I tested many different times and just spend the whole kit with no successful results.
Sorry to ask again, I failed again with scala film and reversal kit. I still have a "veil" on the image. Is it a problem with the exposure ? Is it a problem with the bleach. I process 7 films and only one came really great... So I'm lost, if you could help. many thanks
Hi Nicolas, I'm sorry this happened. Did you process all films together? This one film that worked great, did you process it first/last/somewhere in the middle? What kind of "veil"do you have, is it even or in patches?
@@linabessonova Many thanks for your reply, each films was process alone. the veil is on all the picture except on the bordure for most of the film developed. When I agitate more during the bleach I had only on the center. But, I look after your video, and I agitate more than u do and in continuous, coz the first film I follow the process and it came bad. So I'm lost :-( again thanks for your help
@@nicolassahuc8338 90% it's bleach agitation. Try continuous rolling throughout the entire bleach time. Maybe add another 30 seconds too. Same for clear bath, try rolling/inverting all the time. Do you have instagram? Could you DM me instagram.com/linabessonova.photography your images, so I confirm that it's bleach agitation?
@@linabessonova I send you images on your instagram. I will try soon again coz I ordrered a new kit and films. Many thanks and tell me when u watch the images. Bests
Unless you are projecting the slides I don’t really see the use for black and white positives. Not going to be printing them in a Darkroom and if scanning it is easier to shoot color and convert to B&W in Photoshop right ?
The fact that you can use the same chemistry to print slide reversal through an enlarger and convert it to a positive is outstanding. I think you're selling yourself a little short on what is possible with this chemistry or you didn't watch the video all the way through.
@@StudioC41 I have experience with this film. I was shooting the original; in 1996 while attending the Art Institute of Seattle. It scans good but you lose much of the ability to adjust in Photoshop since there are no color channels. It does NOT print anywhere near as good as a B&W negative under an enlarger. I still remember to this day seeing it on the table for the first time it had such an impact. However they are gorgeous to look at on a Light table for sure. I still have my slide projector but never use it. You gain nothing with this film and lose so much.
@@terrywbreedlove you do know you’re lecturing people about digitizing on analog YT channel. You’re talking about a process that you did 25 years ago. There significant advancements since then. And the fact that Adox is preserving an alternative process it’s nothing short of a miracle. It’s like saying wet plate is inferior, duh we know. But people still do it and it’s still alive. The only limitation is with the mind.
@@StudioC41 I also talked about working the film in the darkroom. I work in my own darkroom all the time. I shoot 4x5 and 6x6 with my Hasselblad 503. Go back and read what I wrote 45 times really slowly then think it through. As simple as it was obviously it went way over your head
I agree, I really dont see a positive aspect about having a Black and White slide film unless you are going to be using a slide projector. And lets face it, our current technology buried slide projectors about 10 years ago. Nobody uses them anymore because we have easy and quality methods of digitizing slides for viewing. There is no reason for a Black and White slide film because its going to end up being scanned, and if you do that, why not just shoot regular Negative film and scan it or print then scan. It goes the same for color slide film as well. Slide film was used in the past for the sole reason for sharing the images with others in a group setting. There is just no legitimate reasons for slide film any more since we now can shoot ANY film stock, process it at home and scan the film so that it can be shared with others. all slide films are obsolete and dont have a place any longer.
![Twenty One Pilots - “The Line” (from Arcane Season 2) [Official Music Video]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/E2Rj2gQAyPA/mqdefault.jpg)
I've resisted going back to 35 because I really like medium format, but this might just do it. They really do look stunning.
I got GREAT results using 120 size Rollei Superpan 200 film (shot at ISO200) with 9mins @ 21deg First Development time. I highly recommend this kit, it makes the process easy. The Superpan film is super-panchromatic so I used an IR cut off filter (cutting out IR) because I prefer the look of this.
I can't wait to buy this and try it out!
I love your positive vibes! Definitely gonna try this one day.
Well done Lina! Very excited about this! Reversing a print from a positive was pretty mind-blowing! I didn't know that was possible!
Hope your kit comes to you soon!
I can’t wait for the 120 film. My 6x6 projector is hungry!
Rollei films are 120 and on transparent base, they can be inverted well for sure!
@@linabessonova Ah yes, you're right, except for RPX 100 and 400. Good, it gives the choice between Ortho25, RPX 25, 80S, Superpan 200, and 400S.
Great job explaining the process! 😄😃😃
Great content! love it. But one question for Adox: Where can i order the shirt?
Same question here :)
I've got one as surprise gift year ago! Wuuhuu!
of course but when we are in trouble with your product, we have no answer. I Developed 2 films and it was a fail each time. After the clear bath, when I reexpose the film I could see the images, the film don't turn correctly "yellow". So I have got other film to process, and I am lost. Would you please fix my problem.
Lina, dear Lina, you are a song of inspiration to my heart ;-)
Aw thank you!
Hi Lina. Love your videos. Your enthusiasm for analog photography is very catchy. I've wanted to find a way to print photos I take as negative images in the darkroom. I now have a couple of ideas. :-). Thank you!
interesting and exciting😊
Thank you Lina! Great work!
Super informative Lina! Thank you very much
Ti ho "conosciuta" qui su youtube due giorni fa. Sto vedendo i tuoi video uno dietro l'altro. Eh niente, sono già innamorato .
Huh, I had never heard of Scala before, I will have to give it a try
I love Adox produts !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Awesome... It's look the same process of roba apposta! Great
Agfa Scala is a process introduced in 1995. And nowadays there are many kits offering reversal (Klaus Wehner, Roba Apposta, Rollei, Foma) , but none have a stable worlwide shippable bleach bath, except Adox. They are good in their other ways too, of course.
Super-Blue hair looks great :-)
Like the look of this, I do miss Florence now too after seeing those photos. I need to get back and shoot analogue !
Yes! Florence is a super inspiring magical place!
Thank you
is there a place to find developing times for this kit with foma r100? i just developed my first scala 50 and fell in love with it! the store i pruchased from olny carries the 50 and the r100 and i wanted to be able to find developing times to be able to use this kit with both films as its available.. any help would be greatly appreciated
literally just took the same photo of that tower in Berlin from the exact same spot
I was brought here by your great Spectral sensitivity video. That one was super informative. I have really enjoyed the b/w and sepia slides that dr5film developed for me on some rolls of delta 100 and hp5 I shot. Their sepia slides are something you might find interesting, as I don't know of anywhere else where receiving sepia slides may be possible. Subscribed!
I am reminded of my own love affair with B&W slides, in 1961, shooting the Seattle World Fair at night. If you have the equipment and chemicals of a normal wet darkroom, there is a much cheaper, easier, and more efficient B&W slide process than shown here. You can use any normal B&W negative. You contract print that negative to B&W litho film, commonly in 4x5 inch sheets cut down to size needed. That litho film is then processed in Dektol paper developer, just like a normal paper print, under a safe light. By changing the dilution of the developer and the exposure of the contact print to litho film, you can control contrast and density. When done, you still have your original negative in tact. Requires no special exposure or processing. The only thing not off the shelf is the litho film, which is fairly cheap and available from all major photo suppliers.
That is a very interesting kit! Thanks for presentation.
How large is the density range (or today they say "dynamic range") of that positive film compared with a negative film like Adox CHS 100? Is it over 7 stops? or less?
Are there scalafilms for mediumformat?
Thank you
In the past I used the Tetenal kit, unfortunately Tetenal stopped producing that kit, but nice to hear there is an alternative. In stead of getting into the "raw chemical route"
There are a few other ones, they just aren't as easily shippable worldwide and have a more hazardous bleach bath. But if you are in Europe, there is a choice!
@@linabessonova yeah, they have an atomic bomb in them, very hazardous.
@@MezeiEugen Hazardous enough to have international shipping restrictions.
@@linabessonova Im going to give it a try, quite curious about the results, the Tetenal kit contained indeed concentrated sulfuric acid and kalium permanganete.
I think that was also one of the reasons that it was difficult to obtain those kits.
Also Ilford ank Kodak made those kits long time ago, Ilford still has an PDF file of it www.ilfordphoto.com/reversal-processing/?___store=ilford_brochure&___from_store=ilford_uk
Though I think this is much easier and handier, quite curious about the results with 120 format. (Or even try 4x5 there are though rare, 4x5 projectors exist and quite nice for an exhibition)
Thanks for sharing the info and helping the photocommunity :)
Thanks Lina!!
It would be nice if the blixer could be sold separately so that we could experiment with other developers (for both or separately).
The bleach looks like Potassium Permanganate which his easy to find recipes online. You will need some sulfuric acid to make. I make mine from concentrated sulfuric acid but you can make some with less concentrated like 20% if that makes you nervous. The hazardous kits Lina refers to have Potassium Dichromate which is illegal to ship most places as it is very toxic. What you buy with these kits is a recipe that works so you don't have to experiment with dilutions times and temperatures. As she says very easy for the beginner or those that just want something that works.
@@bigdogdougcambridge1008 there is an Ilford publication for reversal B&W process where apear a formula for it. I don’t remember it now, but for sure it include sulfuric acid.
This looks wonderful. I would really like to try it. I only wish Adox still made it in 120. Any chance that might happen again? 🤔 🙏
You could use any film that has a clear base like Rollei RPX 25.
i think may have done a roll in college photo class. will have to see if in my box of negs.thousands to re do,scan, print,enlarge. B&W negs are cool...
Thousands oh my! That's a job
Hi Lina. I just developed my first film (reversal that is) of the Adox Scala 50. Everything worked it looks like. I think I overexposed in camera, I was using a Pentax ME with slightly iffy internal meter, plus it doesn't have ASA50 setting, it has two options between 32 and 64 ha ha, so I used one of those and set to 1 stop over exposure compensation. But there are nice deep blacks in some frames, and everything looks sharp. There is a very slight yellowish tint, that I think I see in your films on this video also, so maybe that's normal. The edges on the sprocket holes are completely black, so all the chemistry worked. I will do more tries with some exposure bracketing. I have an adapter on the way for making stereo 3D images on the Pentax, when that comes I will make 3D slides! I really want to do 120 film, Adox doesn't seem to have one any more, so probably will try FP4 or PanF 50 as some sites say they have generally lots of silver in the emulsion (also based on your other new video about Tgrain emulsions). Thanks!
Hi. This bleach bath is based on potasium permanganate? thanks. I love your chanel
Scanning and digital printing?
Hi Lina, great video! About using it on paper. You said it lasted for around 4 18x20s. Is that for the 2 liters? Also is the developing and bleaching time same as with film? Im interested in trying it on an Afghan box camera.
Thanks!
That T-shirt looks good on you 😉
I rarely subscribe but you young lady have an infectious charm about a film I used so much a few years ago being the Agfa Scala 200 which I bought exclusively for my B&W photography.
This is the only video I've watched I see there are more and will sort through them as time permits BUT, for right now I'm going to source out the developing kit.
I did read a comment made about 120 film and your reply about Rollei films which I use now but not reversal. Can these film use the Scala B&W reversal kit and the same development technique? The very best to you Robert in Canada
Can you use these chemicals on any black and white film?
Yes, of course! The times are different though
I have some Rollei Superpan 200, Rollei Retro 80s and Adox CHS 100 II in my freezer which should be great film to reverse develop. However there are no developing times in your manual for these film stocks. Do you have any advice on how to procede with film that is yet untested with Adox Scala reversal developer?
Hi Lina how many rolls can the kit develop?
Thanks
Thx for an informative vid! Re reversing other films, if your base is grayish, couldn't one just use a stronger light when viewing them? Shouldn't it at some point appear white, if just illuminated sufficiently?
Another q, how dangerous is the bleach bath? Is it permanganate or dichromate?
The bleach is not dangerous, it's hazmat-free and based on permarganate, which, in very diluted form, I was given for treating tonsillitis as a child :D
As for the light - of course, the projected slides will still be "readable". But if you shine too much light to kill the grey, the beauty and subtlety of the soft tonal transitions will also be affected.
Sure, you could light an atomic bomb. The light of the projector also gives a lot of heat, so you can not put any amount of light trough a slide. (It will melt!) Maybe with the new LED lights this have changed.
Still, why use films with a base that is not perfectly clear?
Hi there!
I've been looking for this exact process for a while now, and even have two rolls of (likely expired) SCALA 120 film. I do have a couple of questions, though. First off, I noticed that when I was looking for black-and-white reversal processes, I noticed two main techniques, either using chemicals to bleach and re-expose the film, or using a jig to photograph the negatives onto other negatives, thereby making positives. Can you guys please help me understand what the benefits are of these? Also, since I'm a broke college student, do you know how I would bring down the cost of this process? In the past, I've even resorted to unspooling film and dividing it among a couple different cassettes to stretch the amount I have.
Thnaks for this video, at least I tried and failed yesterday. At the end the film looks like grey with a chemestry hidden a part of the image. I can see the image but it looks weird, like a "veil" on the film. Can u help me to fix the problem ?
thanks for your informative video～Is it possible to develop adox scala 50 or 160 using foma reversal kit ？and the develop parameter ？
This is really great news Lina!! I have a roll of Agfa Scala waiting for more than 12 years to be developed, I hope I can recover the images with this process!, do you think it's still possible? Thanks!
what is the first developing time for pushing the original scala 200x to iso400/27, 16 or 17 min?
I don’t know but it reminds me something: a "apposta" stuff which was born in the southern and wild part of Veneto. Anyway good video
Agfa Scala is a process from the 80s, and there surely were non-commercial reversal processes before. There are many reversal kits: Klaus Wehner, Rollei, Foma, Roba Apposta and probably others... This one is low in hazardous contents and is worldwide shippable, that's the big difference.
@@linabessonova thank you for your answer. Practically all these reversal kits do the same thing but Adox is the coolest one because it is worldwide shippable.
@@marcocrivellaro5312 Basically, yes! Also, I made a mistake, Agfa Scala was introduced in 1995 - sorry, I confused it with another process :)
Great job Lina!
Question:
Since colour slide film forces you to meter more precisely because of its narrow latitude does that mean that a bw negative film that is processed as slides also becomes a narrow latitude film?
Keep up the good work!
In general, yes. But nevertheless you can be relaxed: If you know the simple basics of exposure, and if your exposure meter is working properly, it is absolutely no problem at all working with colour and BW reversal film and getting excellent results! I started using reversal film as a 14 year old with a Nikon FM, and even at a young beginner I had no problems at all to get correct exposure. Don't forget that dozens of millions of photographers have used reversal film since its invention over all the decades, and most of them had much worse equipment than we have today. Nevertheless they got excellent results.
Hi Lina, is this kit based on genuine Agfa Scala chemistry?
Any recommendations for a 120 film that this works well with?
Rollei films (the ones that are repackaged Agfa Aviphot) have a transparent base, so they will surely look good!
I have been wanting to try this process for ages but the reversal adox film is constantly out of stock in Australia ☹
Noo (( Maybe try ordering from Fotoimpex directly? I know a guy from Australia who buys from them. Okay it takes long to arrive + shipping is costly, but if you order enough, it might be same price as at an Australian dealer (I don't know for sure, but you might want to check this)
quick question about the chems, so basely, i just got a kit home, and I'm wondering after the 2 developer, can I reuse the same developer on more film or is it similar to normal one-shot developer that I after the finished developing, dump the chemistry?
I never tried it with other films. It's quite strong though, and lasts for quite a few sheets of paper when used afterwards. I would not be surprised if it did work on film. However, paper has less silver...
@@linabessonova thanks! I might try it some time so! probebly after I shore about the ins and outs of the kit! also, where do I find the times for different films other than scala 50 or 160? I've looked at Ilford datasheet which gives me a 12min first dev, 5 min bleach, 6 min 2 dev, do these times sound resemble? I'm planning on doing fp4 since it has a nice clearish base and is the fastest clear film I can find locally!
What is suggested here is that what Adox/Photoimpex sells is the same as the Scala process. I hihgly doubt it!
The only dev times given in the book with the kit are for Adox Scala 50 and Adox Scala 160, and they're pretty different. If I have some original Agfa Scala 200X, how should I develop it with this kit? 14 minutes at 20 degrees (50), 15 minutes at 24 degress (160), or something else?
Hi! Bill from studio C-41 tested it, and came out with 13-14 minutes at 20 degrees, bleach 6 mins constant agitation, 6 mins second developer.
However, with old film it's hard to predict, as they are stored in different ways, and some deteriorate faster :(
@@linabessonova Thanks. I developed some earlier this evening before seeing this and did the 9 minutes at 24 that the sticker in the booklet has for Scala 160. I'll know for sure when I scan them in the morning, but just eyeballing it tonight, that looks really good to me.
Hi can you use this kit on T grain films thanks .
Yes of course, any grain. I have seen Tmax with good results, I just don't remember if it was the 100 or 400!
@@linabessonova Cool
Films like HP5, FP4, the delta films, tri-x offer superior B&W positives. This kit is for 1 film type... FYI😊
The films you mention have no transparent support. That is essential for a slide.
@@AdamGeorge-pb3fm Not true.
@@dr5chrome896 I am sorry but how is it not true? None of the films you mentioned has crystal clear support. (Maybe tri-x when delivered as cinematic rolls, but that one is not produced anymore.)
@@AdamGeorge-pb3fm Pointless to argue. Educate yourself
@@dr5chrome896 You are right. It is pointless to argue with you. What you need is a visit to an oculist. If you dont see that those films are on a grey or blueish support than you are blind or dumb, probably both.
please could you share how to develop Foma R100 16 mm in Adox Scala? I have been testing all day with little success
it looks good after bleaching but becomes black after second development
@@chelovekvsobake wait, so, it looks pale yellow when bleached, and you can see the outlines of the images, but then you expose 4 minutes, and develop again, and it's all black?
that's right. Fomapan R100 has a layer that should be bleached out. When I get to the second exposure, I can clearly see all the things I filmed on the emulsion side, but there is still a brown layer on the other side. Shouldn't that layer be gone by this stage?
I am wondering if the bleach from Scala doesn't fir this film because I tested many different times and just spend the whole kit with no successful results.
Hello, Did you use the same development time as for scala? @@chelovekvsobake
Sorry to ask again, I failed again with scala film and reversal kit. I still have a "veil" on the image. Is it a problem with the exposure ? Is it a problem with the bleach. I process 7 films and only one came really great... So I'm lost, if you could help. many thanks
Hi Nicolas, I'm sorry this happened. Did you process all films together? This one film that worked great, did you process it first/last/somewhere in the middle? What kind of "veil"do you have, is it even or in patches?
@@linabessonova Many thanks for your reply, each films was process alone. the veil is on all the picture except on the bordure for most of the film developed. When I agitate more during the bleach I had only on the center. But, I look after your video, and I agitate more than u do and in continuous, coz the first film I follow the process and it came bad. So I'm lost :-( again thanks for your help
@@nicolassahuc8338 90% it's bleach agitation. Try continuous rolling throughout the entire bleach time. Maybe add another 30 seconds too. Same for clear bath, try rolling/inverting all the time. Do you have instagram? Could you DM me instagram.com/linabessonova.photography your images, so I confirm that it's bleach agitation?
@@linabessonova I send you images on your instagram. I will try soon again coz I ordrered a new kit and films. Many thanks and tell me when u watch the images. Bests
should work with Agfa Ortho 25, carrier material is very transparent.
Then it should look good!
Hello.. I have a note why the edges of the film with the holes remain black and do not develop.. Thank you..
As a negative, the edges are transparent. As a slide, they become the total opposite - black!
No distributor in the US?
I think Fotoimpex should ship it worldwide. But I don't know the shipping rate.
Fotoimpex ships worldwide, but also Adox distributes through Freestyle, and they should have gotten a shipment of kits, already or quite soon!
primo tentativo fatto stasera con una Fomapan R.... disastroso 😂😭😭🤣🤣
Unless you are projecting the slides I don’t really see the use for black and white positives. Not going to be printing them in a Darkroom and if scanning it is easier to shoot color and convert to B&W in Photoshop right ?
The fact that you can use the same chemistry to print slide reversal through an enlarger and convert it to a positive is outstanding. I think you're selling yourself a little short on what is possible with this chemistry or you didn't watch the video all the way through.
@@StudioC41 I have experience with this film. I was shooting the original; in 1996 while attending the Art Institute of Seattle. It scans good but you lose much of the ability to adjust in Photoshop since there are no color channels. It does NOT print anywhere near as good as a B&W negative under an enlarger. I still remember to this day seeing it on the table for the first time it had such an impact. However they are gorgeous to look at on a Light table for sure. I still have my slide projector but never use it. You gain nothing with this film and lose so much.
@@terrywbreedlove you do know you’re lecturing people about digitizing on analog YT channel. You’re talking about a process that you did 25 years ago. There significant advancements since then. And the fact that Adox is preserving an alternative process it’s nothing short of a miracle. It’s like saying wet plate is inferior, duh we know. But people still do it and it’s still alive. The only limitation is with the mind.
@@StudioC41 I also talked about working the film in the darkroom. I work in my own darkroom all the time. I shoot 4x5 and 6x6 with my Hasselblad 503. Go back and read what I wrote 45 times really slowly then think it through. As simple as it was obviously it went way over your head
I agree, I really dont see a positive aspect about having a Black and White slide film unless you are going to be using a slide projector. And lets face it, our current technology buried slide projectors about 10 years ago. Nobody uses them anymore because we have easy and quality methods of digitizing slides for viewing. There is no reason for a Black and White slide film because its going to end up being scanned, and if you do that, why not just shoot regular Negative film and scan it or print then scan.
It goes the same for color slide film as well. Slide film was used in the past for the sole reason for sharing the images with others in a group setting. There is just no legitimate reasons for slide film any more since we now can shoot ANY film stock, process it at home and scan the film so that it can be shared with others. all slide films are obsolete and dont have a place any longer.
Nooooo, it is not about marketing. Just the entire video is a commercial.
If commercials would be explaining everything about the product in such detail, including the working principles, I'd be happily watching them ;)
Very informative however beautiy of the host is shadowing the information