I can’t believe how well this worked for me thank you so much! I shot expired sensia and was blown away by the results. I used d76 stock at 12 mins 105f and it worked out great, thanks!
Today I did some experiments with Rodinal and Cinestill C41 kit! 1. Presoak 2. 12 minutes 1+25 Rodinal at 42°C fill in temperature 3. Rinse 4. 1 minute re-exposure under a 6500k LED panel (that can of course vary with each light source) 5. 6:30 min C41 color developer at 42°C fill in temperature 6. Rinse 7. 16 min Blix at 30°C The test chart turned out fairly color accurate, slight blue shift in the shadows. It really works, how awsome is that? It was shot on fresh Kodak Ektachrome 100, but i will try expired film too. Rodinal 1+50 was a total fail (and maybe 3°C too cold), 12 minutes way too dense and dark, or 20 minutes way too less dense and hefty magenta shift.
Can confirm that this works! A tad bit more orange than expected in the shadows, but that contrasts with the blue look of Ektachrome, so it’s a good look, very detailed images as well.
Thank you for this. Today I shot a roll of Rera Chrome 100 through a Yashica 44, developed the mask in Caffenol at 105F, then normal C-41 with a 12 minute blix. Once the scary blue color from the wet film disappeared I had slides. Now to figure out how to scan 127 film. Thanks again.
Would be nice to review his results, perhaps having shot a Macbeth or Kodak color chart and grey scale. One issue to look for if you plow into this subject is the density of blacks (shadows). E-6 first developer (B&W developer) contains components which dissolve the very thin fog produced. This is unimportant in conventional B&W film development, so such chemicals are not included in HC-110 or other developers designed for B&W use. However, in E-6 reversal processing, that bit of fog is "reversed", reducing the density of blacks and near-blacks.
For those of us interested in homebrewing as much of this as possible (for cost and chemical life reasons -- even C-41 isn't as available in bulk quantity as it was when I first did home color, fifteen or so years ago), have you ever tried either ferricyanide or peroxide bleach in an E-6 reversal? I can buy CD-4 and mix my own color developer; conventional B&W fixer works fine once the silver has been rehalogenated, but I've read of color mask issues with Fuji materials in ferricyanide, and haven't seen any experiences at all with peroxide bleach (as used in B&W reversal, instead of dichromate or permanganate and sulfuric acid) on color films.
I like the way you think! I have NOT tried it in peroxide bleach, though I use it regularly for B&W reversal. I expect it would work, but I don't have any hard data. I could pretty easily test it though, I'll add that to my list and see if I can get you an answer for that.
@SilentObsvr I am also interested in home rre but I get Kodak Flexicolor C41 dev, bleach, fix, and final fines individually from Unique Photo. The dev and final rinse i mix up yearly and store in airtight wine bags, the bleach has lasted me 5 years. I use flexibility fix as my primary fix for all processing, b/w, ra4, so I’ve switched to buying it in 100L kits
Wow, 5 years is a really good run! I don't think I've ever gotten that long outa mine, but I just use accordion bottles, so they're not totally air-free.
im am now trying this with kodak ektachrome 100d 7294, yes! super 8! i can’t wait to see the results! and i’ll update this comment . Edit : Just did d76 and re-exposure , i saw really nice images ! It’s now in the cs41 developer Edit: now into the blix! Edit: washing… almost there Edit (last one): wow .. the results are awesome!! so happy with it
I just did this method last night with D76 and it worked perfectly. I struggled to get the wet film back on to the real so I was worried that I might have over fogged it but probably it helped lol
Hi, I tried this with Provia 100f and the slides have really strong blue/purple-ish cast to them and super super small dynamic range. I mixed fresh C41 chemicals, Tetenal kit, and fresh HC-110. thanks for the videos btw
I'd say you likely either need to go for longer in the first dev by a little, or bleach a bit longer. Underbleaching can leave a bit of the silver still in the emulsion which tends to make the film more blue and denser. Good luck!
@@GoEverywhere I think that I should go for longer with the first dev because when i opened the tank at the end of blixing and saw it I’ve put it back in for another 3 min and it didnt changed anything.
Wondering if you can still use the same c41 chemistry on regular color negative rolls once it's touched the slide film. Feels like it would be ok but not too sure.
Heh, I was wondering if anyone would catch that! I screwed up when I recorded the last step and I didn't get my microphone all the way plugged in. So when I went and edited the next day my last step had no sound, of course at that point I'd cut the film to scan it. So I had to re-film the last step again aftet that point.
I’ve been curious about doing this experiment for some time! I really like doing b/w reversal and I do a lot of color processes so thx for making it simple for us! I heard about you from you kodakchrome processing am I’m a huge fan... now THAT I want to try some day and I think I’m mostly equipped for it.
Yep, other B&W chemistry will work just fine, you just need to make sure it'll develop to completion. Some chemistry has a hard time developing fully and can take quite a while, but basically any B&W chemistry will work.
Interesting! A question, though. Would it work with either Microphen or Rodinal? I guess I could source some HC-110 but I've got the aforementioned two already at hand. Also, is there a too much/too little as far as lumination goes?
Yes it will work with both of those, the only question is development times. You want a dense negative, but you're on your own for dev times. You can go too little on the re-exposure for sure, its much harder to over expose. My video light was very bright so it only takes 2-3 passes, but 30 seconds near a lamp works well too. If you get too much light it can solarize, but thats like 40 minutes outside in bright sun so dont worry too much about it.
@@GoEverywhere thanks, I'll have to make some tests then. Good thing the forced isolation of these days gives me plenty of time to do that (subjects won't be that interesting, but for a test it's not such a bad thing…). I'll try Microphen since I already have to develop other stuff and see how it goes. If that fails, Rodinal it is. I fashioned a lightbox from an old PC screen and very (very) bright LED strips that gives out plenty of light, I'm not sure how it compares to your video light but I shouldn't be too far off. Since it was off screen, how close were you holding the film to the light?
@@GoEverywhere thank you for taking the time to reply. I have used the Arista E6 Rapid kit, and my e6 slides have been too dense on inspection, while they scan well, the base is too dark unless you really hold them against a strong light. Based on your very helpful video, I am guess that the recommended blix time is too short and the base does not clear well. Let me know if you have any thoughts on this, and many thanks.
Question, what sort of agitation would I use for the first developer? 10s constant than 4 inversions every 30 OR do I treat it like BW film, use ilford method? Thanks!
Tried it and worked great, HC-110 (1:15) for 6:30s, regular C-41 with extra 15s, so far they look good. Extra blix time as well. Wondering, if I was pushing slide film - have some old stuff I want to test out - how would I adjust my times? Would I develop longer on HC-110 as well as my C41?
I've tried this with Fuji CDUII (low ISO) and NEW HC110 at 15:1. Slides turned out too dark. Colors looked good (but a bit blue due to CDU2 being a tungsten bias film. I've read elsewhere that I need to go with a higher concentration of New HC110, almost 8 or 9 to 1. Will try that, and try to remember to report back.
I tried this with modern Ektachrome. It works but produces slides that are too blue in the highlights, too red in the shadows, and overall too dark. I've tried HC-110B at 12 minutes and HC-110A at 8 minutes and got similar results. I might try again with Rodinal as first deverloper and/or ECN-2 as a second developer.
Hmm, sounds like maybe it could either use a bit longer in the first dev, or a little bit of overexposure when shooting. I've done modern Ektachrome before and it's usually ok. Try that and see how it goes!
Thanks you for this video! I just tried it with a very expired roll of agfa slidefilm in Rodinal and Cinestills c41 chemicals. My result was a positive (yay!), but VERY dense and VERY blue looking... I tried it a little differently though, after the instructions of another person online. Those included Rodinal at 104 for 30 minutes, and c41 developer for 20 minutes with agitation every few minutes. It seems like you know your stuff, do you think it makes sense developing with the c41 for that long? I know for the blix step its important, but for the dev? I guess my results could be influenced by the age of the film (most likely imo), not enough re-exposure or the extremely long c41 dev.
No, that's WAY too long in the C41. Just run it at your kits normal time. That's usually around 3:30. That's very likely why you're getting such dense images. You're way over developing it.
@@GoEverywhere thanks dude! Makes sense for the denseness of the film. I think the extreme blue cast of it comes from the film itself, as I had one roll developed by a lab and it was equally blue, but this still helped me a lot in preparation of developing a more expensive and fresh film, so thanks again for this video!
Yeah, blue cast can be from old film or over development. Using C41 instead of E6 results in a cooler cast as well often times which probably didn't help you either. Good luck on your next roll!
@@GoEverywhere I tried again with a few clipped negatives of fresh Ektachrome. First developer Rodinal 1+50 for 25 minutes and then normal C41 dev time, 16 minutes blix. The results are WAY better than last time, but I think the pictures are a bit dark and contrasty and they all have a magenta/red cast all over them (which is still correctable, but quite noticable on the positives). Do you think the first developer should go on even longer? I also read somewhere that rodinal is not the best dev for this as some people say it activates some of the dyes, but I dont know if thats the cause for the colorcast. Maybe I should invest in a bottle of hc110, but I've got so much rodinal left...
I've heard that about Rodinal as well, though I've never really looked into it. But it wouldn't surprise me if thats what you're seeing. You could give it a try with a longer first dev. That should reduce the contrast/darkness a bit but isn't likely the cause of your color cast.
In theory yes. I've not tried it however. You'll want to try it with about a 4-5 stop push for times. You're trying to develop the hell out it, getting every last exposed grain of silver developed.
@@GoEverywhere I am curious if you need to run the film through peroxide and imitation lemon juice to get rid of the silver from the first development or can you just leave it there, then expose the film to bright light, then run a standard C-41 developing cycle on it ..
amazing stuff mate im going to try this today, one question though can a black snd white monobath like df96 be used as a first developer or it has to be just a black and white developer thanks! :)
@@GoEverywhere ah thanks for the reply mate .. im thinking to use something like adox atom al 49.. then use cinestill c-41 kit for the ;water two phases what do you think? :)
I followed link here from Filmboy24, who just today posted a video doing Super 8 E100D (old Ektachrome, not the current stock) with FPP-110 and his homebrew ECN-2 process. I see my own comment below from three years ago. :) My current plan for the several rolls of new E100 (120 size) that I have is to process first dev in Xtol or Parodinal, color dev in Cinestill self-reversing E-6 color dev, and finish with Flexicolor bleach and fix. This should give me more correct colors than C-41 color dev (CD-3 vs. CD-4, some color shifts are expected with C-41), but still wind up costing a LOT less than a full E-6 kit. The big downside is the poor keeping of the E-6 color dev, so I'll probably try a roll with C-41 color dev, too. All this to be sure I have a reliable process that gives good color before I try the ten sheets of 4x5 E100G sitting on my shelf...
Hey, i am kinda new to flm developing and was wondering, if it was possible to use another Black and white Developer in the first step or if the HC 110 is needed. I still have some Atomal and rodinal at home. Thanks for the Video tho!
Howdy Kelly Shane! I just tried this the other day with D76 (stock, 105F) and Cinestill CS41. I managed to get transparencies but with severe color shifting. Roll I shot was Kodak Elite Chrome 200. The color shift appears to be a heavy shift to magenta, and its on the warmer side of color temperature; interestingly the film rebate is also not black, it is translucent magenta. What could this be due to? I tried using a daylight balanced bulb to fog the film as I have heard the Elite Chrome is on the cooler side so I thought that since slide film is a reversing process that using a daylight bulb would shift the colors to a warmer temperature. I used the developing times for CS41 as recommended by Cinestill except for the Blix; Blix was double the time to allow additional bleaching and fixing. For the first dev time I based it on a instructables post about E6 with C41 chemistry that you had commented on years ago; the original poster had used Xtol so I checked massive dev to see how D76 times compared to Xtol and they appear to be tied pretty closely together so I used the original poster's times/temps/dilution (stock).
Thats a strange failure! Sounds like it was probably under developed in the second developer if I had to guess. I've never done it with D76 but that should work fine, I know others have reported success. Maybe try it again with longer second dev times and longer light exposure. It SOUNDS like you only got development in one layer.
Thanks for the great video!! I have a question, if I shoot E100 @ EI 200 and want to push one stop when developing, do I have to push the film only at the first (BW) developer for equivalent six stop push of normal BW film or first and second (C41) developer together? Thanks!!
I did more or less. I reached the point I was able to get very nice looking reversals but the problem I ran into was how expired the film was. If I had a batch of film from the same batch I could adjust the process for that batch and get great results for the rest of that batch. Then the next batch id waste a couple rolls recalibrating again.
@@constantinf.5764 the problem is the process is WILDLY complicated and 14 steps long instead of 2 or 3 for B&W and color and I had to manufacture equipment specifically for the process. You can't really home develop it like most other processes.
@@GoEverywhere thats fine, people still wanna see it. I understand you need separate exposure steps, etc. But the most complicated thing is probably the dye couplers which probably no longer exist, and all other kinds of chemicals probably made for k14 specifically. So how do you get around that? There lots of expired kodachrome sitting around, including my freezer. Would be very useful to see this info.
@@constantinf.5764 yeah, people would find it interesting for sure. The machines I made were for the reexposure steps, they need to be very exacting. I had to order the couplers specially formulated from a chemical production lab in Germany. It was a serious pain to do and was fairly expensive. But it got me correct couplers that worked properly. I still had to figure out the rest of the developers and how to use them as the other half of the equation.
Hi, I just experimented with this and I got fairly dark images -- if my mind is thinking this right, I should extend the HC-110 dev time correct? Thanks a bunch
Does the film need to be fixed after the b&w developer? I got a completely exposed film without any picture, but when I took it out of the tank after the first developer I could see images😢
I know you state you shoot the film at 1600 instead of 800 is this needed or can you shoot at box speed? I want to try this with some fuji I got and just wondering if I should shoot it a stop over. Thank you for your time.
You can totally shoot at box speed, I just happened to be using P1600 film so I shoot it at 1600, it works out fine shooting at box speed without changing times. I guess that was a little unclear in the video, sorry!
Yep, works great. In fact the ECN-2 color developer is the same one used in E6 chemistry, so the color balance is even better with the ECN-2 color dev.
What sort of agitation would you use for the first developer? Same as what I would use for my BW development - I use usually constant for first 30s followed by 10s every minute? Thanks :)
Labs are taking half of that hobby away. And people pay for that. It is easy to get perfect results at home with fresh cheap and proper self mixed chemistry better than a lab
This seemed to work ok, except my film came out super dark. It's scanable and the color looks spot-on, but I have to shine a light through it to see it. Used HC-110 B as described, fixed for 16 minutes and used the Cinestill simplified kit ... relatively fresh. Any thoughts? If I can get the exposure right, the color looks like it's going to be perfect. Thank you!
That often means that you didn't get enough development in the first dev. You've got two options for that. First run it hotter, or run it longer. If you ran it at 105 like I suggest in the video, you might bump up to 115. Too hot and you'll cause emulsion problems. The other option is go maybe 15 minutes and see how it does. Sounds like you're close though!
@@JamieMPhoto How did this end up working out for you? I've always got HC-110 laying around and some Cinestill kits. I assume 16 minutes worked alright for the blix?
@@GoEverywhere ok. I had some stinky results today and I'm trying to eliminate each variable. I'm developing 15 yea expired ektachrome and Elite II slides. the first two were complete failures. on the third I left it in the HC for 24 minutes instead of 12 and I actually saw the b&w negs, but when I moved onto color it was the same result. a blank, flesh colored strip
Sounds like you MIGHT have bad film, but I'd say just go for a long time in the first dev. If you're not getting the B&W negative in the first step you're guaranteed to get nothing in later steps. Good luck!!
hello, good night, today I developed 2 chrome films, I used the chemical D76 Stock for 12 minutes, then I exposed the film to light for 3 minutes, then I developed with the chemical developer Stock C41 for 3'15”, whitener for 3'15” , fixer for 3'30” and stabilizer for 1':30, but the image was very clear, without contrast and without colors, it was very clear, almost not seeing the images well, where did I go wrong? Do you have an email where I can send you a photo?
how u measure the developing time with hc-110? it's a bit hard to get a specific chemical so i plan to use another bw developer, but still i dont know the developing time standard. thx btw for this information
Yes HC110 is a B&W developer. But not all B&W devs are the same. Yours will probably work too but the times will be different so you'll have to experiment to figure out your times.
think this would work with d76? also why did you choose 12 min for your hc110? want to try this with a roll of expired e100G i shot, don't feel like xpro again. edit: thanks for showing this method to us, btw, appreciate you.
It will work with D76, but you'll have to figure out your own dev times. Try for about a 4-5 stop push. I figured out 12 minutes by trial and error really. Kept adjusting till it looked good.
So i have some old 120 ektachrome and my first try had emulsion lifts on it so what temperature range should i do it at? On the directions of my c41 kit it sais 70-104 f but it doesn't give the time for the 70 f can you help me?
Hi, help needed. In the end of the process my film was dark grey without any traces of any images. After the black and white developer, I could see some dense negative images. Then I developed in c41 developer and then blixed with a bleacher from c41 kit. I am thinking maybe one of my chemicals were expired cause they were used before. But which one could it be?
Hi, first of all thank you for this video!It worked very nicely with many films. Be recently I tried with a very old ektachrome film and the outcome was not as I expected. Maybe it is because of the age of the film ( use before 1986 ) or there might be something to adjust depending the age of the film. The problem is that the films is overall very blue. The black parts ( unexposed parts of the film ) are very blue and almost transparent. I wonder if there was a time to adapt in the BW developper, the Color developper or blix. For me it looks over developped, but maybe it is something else. Any ideas or suggestions are welcome :)
I just tried this with negative film for fun. I’m curious if the first development still needs to be so hot. And also could a blue filter cancel the orange backing
You can reduce the heat but you'll have to develop longer. You'd be on your own for figuring out times though. Several people have suggested using a blue filter, and while I'm not convinced it'll work I need to get out and try it. Its certainly an interesting idea!
Did basically this with ECN-2 on E-4 motion picture ektachrome I have 2 bulk 25ft rolls of it and it gives a green cast and is super low iso. I think im gonna try to over expose and overdevelop to rid of the green cast
That sounds like a smart plan. Being E-4 it might just have lost some sensitivity due to age. But more than likely you can sort out a method of exposure and development that'll get you decent results since you have a fair bit of it.
The first developer is just to create the initial mask. You do NOT want to use fixer, that will destroy the rest of the silver you use to make the color reversal image.
Sharp eye! Sadly not magic, I screwed up filming that part and had to go back and re-film that bit but I'd already cut and mounted those slides so I had to use a different strip.
@@GoEverywhere Yes very, especially since i pnly buy a 2.5 liter tetenal e6 kit when i have 30 rolls to develop for the reason you also mentioned with the short life the mixed opened and mixed chemichals has.
I've worked with a lot of reversal methods over there years and reverse engineering processes(I've got several other tutorials for other reversal processes, and I even do Kodachrome K-14!) I knew already how mask and light reversal worked from reading E2 and E3 docs from Kodak, and C41 chemistry is well known to develop E6 film in color since people do X-pro with it all the time. So I did a light reversal with C41, and got nice results.
Same for me - I attribute it to the fact I didn't use HC-110 as this video specifies, but good question. digitalfilmnerd.wordpress.com/2020/07/23/cross-processing-madness-evolution-part-iii/
Looks like you got some salvageable results (and a great little writeup there!) Chris! I'd suggest you either go longer or hotter on the first developer, it looks like you're just a bit underdeveloped with your first dev. Good first try though!
Formalin/Formaldehyde is used as a stabilizer for E6. I would GUESS that very long term this process might not be as color-fast as actual E6, however I've got slides in my collection that are probably 10 years old now that still look fine. We'll see in 30 years how they hold up I guess :P
@@GoEverywhere But yeah, for how much it cost to do a E6 with non-reusable chemistry (Think Fuji Hunt chemistry), the price for entry is usually quite intimidating (Bordering $350) and it seems like the margins for how much you save versus mailing out are very slim, unlike C-41, where you end up saving an astronomically large amount of money, even with the single-use chemistry, like the Kodak Flexicolor stuff. My only concern is the price for experimentation, since expired film can be tricky to judge, and in-date slide film can be very expensive at times. Still going to try this.
For sure. E6 is an expensive way to shoot, sadly. Because it can really be magic when you nail it. I was just getting tired of only getting a couple of rolls through the kit before it goes bad, this was a good trade off.
Who says it doesn't. In fact, the original C-41 formula calls for a formalin type stabilizer. Formalin was omitted for some other chemical when formaldehyde became politically incorrect. The DIY kits are beginning to omit stabilizer altogether. I suspect that this has nothing to do with the chemistry. It's about saving a few cents on chemicals and a plastic bag for them, plus an expectation that most DIY users will scan their C-41 negatives after processing and then toss them before they have time to fade. Did someone say "Tetenal"?
I tried this process following all the steps carefully twice and I got 2 blank rolls of slide film. I might have done something wrong but just in case I'm not trying it on any more rolls for now. Hope I can eventually figure out what happened.
@@GoEverywhere Thanks! The first dev seemed to work, I got the milky negatives, but the c-41 process completely removed those images from the base, I don't know why but it sounds odd.
Just tried this out last night had some positives but the color was very faint also some of the images stayed as a low contrast negative anyone know how to fix this?
This depends on a few things. Were they foggy or did they clear fully?If they're foggy your first dev likely didn't go strong enough, if they're cleared it your second most likely. Either way hotter or longer on the dev that failed has a good chance of fixing your issues!
@@GoEverywhere what was weird is the roll had 4 shots that looked light slides just colored shifted to cyan and then 4 were just like black and white negatives and then I had another 4 that looked solarized, but I realized when I went to shoot another roll today to try it again tonight I left my light meter to over expose by 2.5 stops when I was shooting some 8x10. This could have been the issue I shot a roll normal exposure today so I'll see how it turns out. Thanks for the reply and sharing this amazing process.
Thats SUPER bizarre. I don't have a good answer for that! Over exposing when making slides can cause a lot of issues, including making thin slides or weird color shifts. Hopefully that was your problem. Good luck!
Because I roll 6 frame cartridges or testing cameras I've just rebuilt. It sucks to shoot 36 exposures just to find out a shutter is capping or not running at the right speed. 6 frames lets me test a camera quickly and adjust as needed.
You are referring to standard C41, but there is no blix, but separate bleach and fixer in the standard process. These are simplified home processing kits, which are compromising the results with the advertised "ease to use". Also, your process does not include conditioner, which should be used for E6 film in order to preserve the colors. This in not done by a standard C41 final rinse. C41 film has stabilizer in emulsion, but E6 film does not. Also, your claim that this is not cross processing is false, because the developing agent used in C41 is different from the one used in E6, CD-4 and CD-3 namely. This will lead to minor color shift. In reality, if the film stock is an expired film manufactured more than 10 years ago, or even more, this probably is the least of your problems.
Ok so I tried it and it didn’t really work out for me… so I used the first developer (the B&W) and it came out of the tank looking normal. I could see the negatives and the film was light grey, so I moved onto the color developer and the Blix.. I developed the film for 3:30 and the Blix for 13 min (it’s usually 6:30 but I doubled it) however after rinsing the film and taking it out I saw no positives or anything at all all I see is the blank emulsion and on the other side it seems to be blue? I have the “Unicolor” c-41 kit btw, Any thoughts on why this is happening?
Thanks for the good work! However my first roll came out kinda blue with little image shown. But during the hc110 dev, i got milky image and I somehow bleached for 12 minutes like you said double the standard time, and fix another 13 minutes, is it too long for the bleach and fix in separate steps? Should i go with standard 6.5m for bleach and 6.5m for fix? Thanks again!
You've got a sharp eye there! You're correct. I screwed up filming that part and had to go back and re-film that bit but I'd already cut and mounted those slides so I had to use a different strip.
What is good here is that it demonstrated the theory and practice of reversal slide chemistry. With no showing of the end product, and more than a passing knowledge of E-6 chemistry, I suspect that "prefect" and "beautiful" may not be applicable. There is a critical chemical component in the first (B&W) developer, absent from HC-110, which bleaches out chemical fog formed in development. The omission means that the final positive image will never get true blacks. The fact that he's using a very fast Ektachrome film which had been discontinued 18 years previous probably didn't help.
I can’t believe how well this worked for me thank you so much! I shot expired sensia and was blown away by the results. I used d76 stock at 12 mins 105f and it worked out great, thanks!
Glad it worked for ya! I do all my E6 film this way these days. Reduces the chemistry I have to keep on hand and works fantastic!
did you see any images formed after first developer?
Today I did some experiments with Rodinal and Cinestill C41 kit!
1. Presoak
2. 12 minutes 1+25 Rodinal at 42°C fill in temperature
3. Rinse
4. 1 minute re-exposure under a 6500k LED panel (that can of course vary with each light source)
5. 6:30 min C41 color developer at 42°C fill in temperature
6. Rinse
7. 16 min Blix at 30°C
The test chart turned out fairly color accurate, slight blue shift in the shadows. It really works, how awsome is that?
It was shot on fresh Kodak Ektachrome 100, but i will try expired film too.
Rodinal 1+50 was a total fail (and maybe 3°C too cold), 12 minutes way too dense and dark, or 20 minutes way too less dense and hefty magenta shift.
Nicely done! Looks like you've cracked the Rodinal code :)
why did you do 6.30 min c41 dev and not 3.50 min?
Can confirm that this works! A tad bit more orange than expected in the shadows, but that contrasts with the blue look of Ektachrome, so it’s a good look, very detailed images as well.
How long did you develop it in the rodinal?
I love how he casually mentions K-14
I wanna know now
Thank you for this. Today I shot a roll of Rera Chrome 100 through a Yashica 44, developed the mask in Caffenol at 105F, then normal C-41 with a 12 minute blix. Once the scary blue color from the wet film disappeared I had slides. Now to figure out how to scan 127 film. Thanks again.
Awesome, glad it worked out for you! 127 is a fun format and a I LOVE the Yashica 44!
Hi there! How long did you spend on 1st dev with caffenol? Thanks :)
used Xtol stock solution for 12mins and cs41. Worked great!
Good to know!
Hey, did you heat the xtol stock up to the 39C when you did this?
@@ForestKid31 yes it was heated to 39c. I followed an instructable: "Develop-Slide-Film-With-C-41-Chemicals-AKA-E-6"
Dang, I just tried it and my slides are dark as heck (but I'm hoping still scannable). Wonder what happened!
Super cool ! Would love to have seen scans of the final result.
Would be nice to review his results, perhaps having shot a Macbeth or Kodak color chart and grey scale. One issue to look for if you plow into this subject is the density of blacks (shadows). E-6 first developer (B&W developer) contains components which dissolve the very thin fog produced. This is unimportant in conventional B&W film development, so such chemicals are not included in HC-110 or other developers designed for B&W use. However, in E-6 reversal processing, that bit of fog is "reversed", reducing the density of blacks and near-blacks.
For those of us interested in homebrewing as much of this as possible (for cost and chemical life reasons -- even C-41 isn't as available in bulk quantity as it was when I first did home color, fifteen or so years ago), have you ever tried either ferricyanide or peroxide bleach in an E-6 reversal? I can buy CD-4 and mix my own color developer; conventional B&W fixer works fine once the silver has been rehalogenated, but I've read of color mask issues with Fuji materials in ferricyanide, and haven't seen any experiences at all with peroxide bleach (as used in B&W reversal, instead of dichromate or permanganate and sulfuric acid) on color films.
I like the way you think! I have NOT tried it in peroxide bleach, though I use it regularly for B&W reversal. I expect it would work, but I don't have any hard data. I could pretty easily test it though, I'll add that to my list and see if I can get you an answer for that.
@SilentObsvr I am also interested in home rre but I get Kodak Flexicolor C41 dev, bleach, fix, and final fines individually from Unique Photo. The dev and final rinse i mix up yearly and store in airtight wine bags, the bleach has lasted me 5 years. I use flexibility fix as my primary fix for all processing, b/w, ra4, so I’ve switched to buying it in 100L kits
Wow, 5 years is a really good run! I don't think I've ever gotten that long outa mine, but I just use accordion bottles, so they're not totally air-free.
This just blew my mind!!
Dude, this is awesome. I’ll have to try this. Thanks for the info.
im am now trying this with kodak ektachrome 100d 7294, yes! super 8! i can’t wait to see the results! and i’ll update this comment .
Edit : Just did d76 and re-exposure , i saw really nice images !
It’s now in the cs41 developer
Edit: now into the blix!
Edit: washing… almost there
Edit (last one): wow .. the results are awesome!! so happy with it
Sweet! Very cool! I wish I had a better way to digitize motion film. I'd shoot a lot more of it!
I just did this method last night with D76 and it worked perfectly. I struggled to get the wet film back on to the real so I was worried that I might have over fogged it but probably it helped lol
IT WORKED
IT WORKED
although a tad underexposed they all came out fine :)) thanks a lot
Yay! Glad to hear it!!! If they came out a hair too dark, you can extend your first dev a little bit to compensate.
Hi, I tried this with Provia 100f and the slides have really strong blue/purple-ish cast to them and super super small dynamic range. I mixed fresh C41 chemicals, Tetenal kit, and fresh HC-110. thanks for the videos btw
I'd say you likely either need to go for longer in the first dev by a little, or bleach a bit longer. Underbleaching can leave a bit of the silver still in the emulsion which tends to make the film more blue and denser. Good luck!
@@GoEverywhere I think that I should go for longer with the first dev because when i opened the tank at the end of blixing and saw it I’ve put it back in for another 3 min and it didnt changed anything.
@@jancestr1054 Ok, so you've likely ruled out bleach then. I'd say add a minute to first dev and see how it turns out for ya.
Wondering if you can still use the same c41 chemistry on regular color negative rolls once it's touched the slide film. Feels like it would be ok but not too sure.
Will this ruin your c41 chemistry for regular uses on negative film?
Nope, that's the biggest reason I do this. One set of chemistry for both processes.
The initial piece of film was bigger than the processed one in the en! Why?
Heh, I was wondering if anyone would catch that! I screwed up when I recorded the last step and I didn't get my microphone all the way plugged in. So when I went and edited the next day my last step had no sound, of course at that point I'd cut the film to scan it. So I had to re-film the last step again aftet that point.
@@GoEverywhere no detail should escape from a photographer eye isn't it?
I’ve been curious about doing this experiment for some time! I really like doing b/w reversal and I do a lot of color processes so thx for making it simple for us! I heard about you from you kodakchrome processing am I’m a huge fan... now THAT I want to try some day and I think I’m mostly equipped for it.
My pleasure! I'll do a tutorial on the K-14 stuff in the future, but its just so complex its crazy!
I’m curious if other black and white chemicals would work. Like ilford for example.
Yep, other B&W chemistry will work just fine, you just need to make sure it'll develop to completion. Some chemistry has a hard time developing fully and can take quite a while, but basically any B&W chemistry will work.
Interesting!
A question, though. Would it work with either Microphen or Rodinal? I guess I could source some HC-110 but I've got the aforementioned two already at hand. Also, is there a too much/too little as far as lumination goes?
Yes it will work with both of those, the only question is development times. You want a dense negative, but you're on your own for dev times. You can go too little on the re-exposure for sure, its much harder to over expose. My video light was very bright so it only takes 2-3 passes, but 30 seconds near a lamp works well too. If you get too much light it can solarize, but thats like 40 minutes outside in bright sun so dont worry too much about it.
@@GoEverywhere thanks, I'll have to make some tests then. Good thing the forced isolation of these days gives me plenty of time to do that (subjects won't be that interesting, but for a test it's not such a bad thing…). I'll try Microphen since I already have to develop other stuff and see how it goes. If that fails, Rodinal it is.
I fashioned a lightbox from an old PC screen and very (very) bright LED strips that gives out plenty of light, I'm not sure how it compares to your video light but I shouldn't be too far off. Since it was off screen, how close were you holding the film to the light?
I was holding it about 2-3 inches in front of the light.
Do you do the 3 min wash between hc110 and c41 developer? What about wash from c41 to blix? Do you also stabilize at the end?
I don't usually do a full 3 minutes, but yes I wash between steps. I don't usually use stabilizer, but you probably ought to.
@@GoEverywhere thank you for taking the time to reply. I have used the Arista E6 Rapid kit, and my e6 slides have been too dense on inspection, while they scan well, the base is too dark unless you really hold them against a strong light. Based on your very helpful video, I am guess that the recommended blix time is too short and the base does not clear well. Let me know if you have any thoughts on this, and many thanks.
I just found out, the size of the film can shrink after developing processed :)
rio achmar can or will? Which films?
@@CertainExposures the film he pulled out in the video was shorter at the end than at the beginning
That's what happens when you screw up your recording and have to redo it and have already cut down your film :) you all have too good of eyes!!
Question, what sort of agitation would I use for the first developer? 10s constant than 4 inversions every 30 OR do I treat it like BW film, use ilford method? Thanks!
Okay, the double the blix is new to me. Been doing only the normal time. Guess I'll up that on the next set I do. Glad you shared this one.
You're often ok with normal, but I've found that the highlights don't clear fully sometimes if you don't .
Tried it and worked great, HC-110 (1:15) for 6:30s, regular C-41 with extra 15s, so far they look good. Extra blix time as well.
Wondering, if I was pushing slide film - have some old stuff I want to test out - how would I adjust my times? Would I develop longer on HC-110 as well as my C41?
I've tried this with Fuji CDUII (low ISO) and NEW HC110 at 15:1. Slides turned out too dark. Colors looked good (but a bit blue due to CDU2 being a tungsten bias film. I've read elsewhere that I need to go with a higher concentration of New HC110, almost 8 or 9 to 1. Will try that, and try to remember to report back.
Interesting! That would make sense as too dark would mean it needs more first dev. Let us know how it goes!!
I tried this with modern Ektachrome. It works but produces slides that are too blue in the highlights, too red in the shadows, and overall too dark. I've tried HC-110B at 12 minutes and HC-110A at 8 minutes and got similar results. I might try again with Rodinal as first deverloper and/or ECN-2 as a second developer.
Hmm, sounds like maybe it could either use a bit longer in the first dev, or a little bit of overexposure when shooting. I've done modern Ektachrome before and it's usually ok. Try that and see how it goes!
Thanks you for this video! I just tried it with a very expired roll of agfa slidefilm in Rodinal and Cinestills c41 chemicals. My result was a positive (yay!), but VERY dense and VERY blue looking...
I tried it a little differently though, after the instructions of another person online. Those included Rodinal at 104 for 30 minutes, and c41 developer for 20 minutes with agitation every few minutes. It seems like you know your stuff, do you think it makes sense developing with the c41 for that long? I know for the blix step its important, but for the dev? I guess my results could be influenced by the age of the film (most likely imo), not enough re-exposure or the extremely long c41 dev.
No, that's WAY too long in the C41. Just run it at your kits normal time. That's usually around 3:30. That's very likely why you're getting such dense images. You're way over developing it.
@@GoEverywhere thanks dude! Makes sense for the denseness of the film. I think the extreme blue cast of it comes from the film itself, as I had one roll developed by a lab and it was equally blue, but this still helped me a lot in preparation of developing a more expensive and fresh film, so thanks again for this video!
Yeah, blue cast can be from old film or over development. Using C41 instead of E6 results in a cooler cast as well often times which probably didn't help you either. Good luck on your next roll!
@@GoEverywhere I tried again with a few clipped negatives of fresh Ektachrome. First developer Rodinal 1+50 for 25 minutes and then normal C41 dev time, 16 minutes blix. The results are WAY better than last time, but I think the pictures are a bit dark and contrasty and they all have a magenta/red cast all over them (which is still correctable, but quite noticable on the positives). Do you think the first developer should go on even longer? I also read somewhere that rodinal is not the best dev for this as some people say it activates some of the dyes, but I dont know if thats the cause for the colorcast. Maybe I should invest in a bottle of hc110, but I've got so much rodinal left...
I've heard that about Rodinal as well, though I've never really looked into it. But it wouldn't surprise me if thats what you're seeing. You could give it a try with a longer first dev. That should reduce the contrast/darkness a bit but isn't likely the cause of your color cast.
This is really a great idea. I‘m very tempted to try this but how does the color compare to regular E6 chemistry? Thank you!
Very good. They tend to be just SLIGHTLY cooler in color temperature.
Other than that basically identical.
Just started researching this and bang a video
Glad I could help :)
Crazy! This got me thinking, is it also possible with Caffenol as a first developer?
In theory yes. I've not tried it however. You'll want to try it with about a 4-5 stop push for times. You're trying to develop the hell out it, getting every last exposed grain of silver developed.
@@GoEverywhere I am curious if you need to run the film through peroxide and imitation lemon juice to get rid of the silver from the first development or can you just leave it there, then expose the film to bright light, then run a standard C-41 developing cycle on it ..
amazing stuff mate im going to try this today, one question though can a black snd white monobath like df96 be used as a first developer or it has to be just a black and white developer thanks! :)
No, you can't use a monobath. Monobaths have a fixer in them, so they destroy silver you need.
@@GoEverywhere ah thanks for the reply mate .. im thinking to use something like adox atom
al 49.. then use cinestill c-41 kit for the ;water two phases what do you think? :)
Thanks for the video! I have started my own RUclips channel dedicated to film photography!
Super awesome Luís! I'll have to go check your channel out!!
What about with Ektachrome 7294 in super 8? And how does the grain compare?
I followed link here from Filmboy24, who just today posted a video doing Super 8 E100D (old Ektachrome, not the current stock) with FPP-110 and his homebrew ECN-2 process. I see my own comment below from three years ago. :)
My current plan for the several rolls of new E100 (120 size) that I have is to process first dev in Xtol or Parodinal, color dev in Cinestill self-reversing E-6 color dev, and finish with Flexicolor bleach and fix. This should give me more correct colors than C-41 color dev (CD-3 vs. CD-4, some color shifts are expected with C-41), but still wind up costing a LOT less than a full E-6 kit. The big downside is the poor keeping of the E-6 color dev, so I'll probably try a roll with C-41 color dev, too.
All this to be sure I have a reliable process that gives good color before I try the ten sheets of 4x5 E100G sitting on my shelf...
Hey, i am kinda new to flm developing and was wondering, if it was possible to use another Black and white Developer in the first step or if the HC 110 is needed. I still have some Atomal and rodinal at home. Thanks for the Video tho!
Howdy Kelly Shane! I just tried this the other day with D76 (stock, 105F) and Cinestill CS41. I managed to get transparencies but with severe color shifting. Roll I shot was Kodak Elite Chrome 200. The color shift appears to be a heavy shift to magenta, and its on the warmer side of color temperature; interestingly the film rebate is also not black, it is translucent magenta. What could this be due to? I tried using a daylight balanced bulb to fog the film as I have heard the Elite Chrome is on the cooler side so I thought that since slide film is a reversing process that using a daylight bulb would shift the colors to a warmer temperature. I used the developing times for CS41 as recommended by Cinestill except for the Blix; Blix was double the time to allow additional bleaching and fixing. For the first dev time I based it on a instructables post about E6 with C41 chemistry that you had commented on years ago; the original poster had used Xtol so I checked massive dev to see how D76 times compared to Xtol and they appear to be tied pretty closely together so I used the original poster's times/temps/dilution (stock).
Thats a strange failure! Sounds like it was probably under developed in the second developer if I had to guess. I've never done it with D76 but that should work fine, I know others have reported success. Maybe try it again with longer second dev times and longer light exposure. It SOUNDS like you only got development in one layer.
What was the dev time for the d-76?
Thanks for the great video!! I have a question, if I shoot E100 @ EI 200 and want to push one stop when developing, do I have to push the film only at the first (BW) developer for equivalent six stop push of normal BW film or first and second (C41) developer together?
Thanks!!
Push in the first B&W developer and run the C41 step as normal.
@@GoEverywhere Thanks a lot!! Have a nice day :)
did you ever manage to recreate the K14 process?
I did more or less. I reached the point I was able to get very nice looking reversals but the problem I ran into was how expired the film was. If I had a batch of film from the same batch I could adjust the process for that batch and get great results for the rest of that batch. Then the next batch id waste a couple rolls recalibrating again.
@@GoEverywhere are you gonna make a video on K14 ?
@@constantinf.5764 the problem is the process is WILDLY complicated and 14 steps long instead of 2 or 3 for B&W and color and I had to manufacture equipment specifically for the process. You can't really home develop it like most other processes.
@@GoEverywhere thats fine, people still wanna see it. I understand you need separate exposure steps, etc. But the most complicated thing is probably the dye couplers which probably no longer exist, and all other kinds of chemicals probably made for k14 specifically. So how do you get around that? There lots of expired kodachrome sitting around, including my freezer. Would be very useful to see this info.
@@constantinf.5764 yeah, people would find it interesting for sure. The machines I made were for the reexposure steps, they need to be very exacting.
I had to order the couplers specially formulated from a chemical production lab in Germany. It was a serious pain to do and was fairly expensive. But it got me correct couplers that worked properly. I still had to figure out the rest of the developers and how to use them as the other half of the equation.
Question. After I develop a roll ektachrome in c41 chem. Will it contaminate my future c41 roll film later?
Nope, your chems are still totally fine to run C41 film in afterwards.
Hi, I just experimented with this and I got fairly dark images -- if my mind is thinking this right, I should extend the HC-110 dev time correct? Thanks a bunch
Yep, you're correct. Go longer in the HC-110 first dev.
Can you do the two development steps as stand development?
In theory absolutely. I've never tried it though, so you'd e a bit on your own. But I'd bet just a basic stand would get you pretty close.
Does the film need to be fixed after the b&w developer? I got a completely exposed film without any picture, but when I took it out of the tank after the first developer I could see images😢
For how long should I wash my negs after the black and white developer?
2 minutes is usually fine.
I know you state you shoot the film at 1600 instead of 800 is this needed or can you shoot at box speed? I want to try this with some fuji I got and just wondering if I should shoot it a stop over. Thank you for your time.
You can totally shoot at box speed, I just happened to be using P1600 film so I shoot it at 1600, it works out fine shooting at box speed without changing times. I guess that was a little unclear in the video, sorry!
Thanks for the clarification. I am super excited to try this out.
Good luck! :)
Can you use the same technique for black-and-white film to get a black and white positive?
No, you cannot. However I *DO* have a tutorial on how to make black and white positives on my channel here ruclips.net/video/XVOgi3QcGzk/видео.html
Nice video, thanks for the info! Do you know if it works with ECN-2 chemistry?
Yep, works great. In fact the ECN-2 color developer is the same one used in E6 chemistry, so the color balance is even better with the ECN-2 color dev.
@@carbonblack1140 That works great too, I've done 16mm this way a few times.
What sort of agitation would you use for the first developer? Same as what I would use for my BW development - I use usually constant for first 30s followed by 10s every minute?
Thanks :)
Also would 1:15 dilution work for 6 mins 30s? Or is it better to stick to B?
Thank god we still have proper labs here
Labs are taking half of that hobby away. And people pay for that. It is easy to get perfect results at home with fresh cheap and proper self mixed chemistry better than a lab
Funny seeing you here.
This seemed to work ok, except my film came out super dark. It's scanable and the color looks spot-on, but I have to shine a light through it to see it. Used HC-110 B as described, fixed for 16 minutes and used the Cinestill simplified kit ... relatively fresh. Any thoughts? If I can get the exposure right, the color looks like it's going to be perfect. Thank you!
That often means that you didn't get enough development in the first dev. You've got two options for that. First run it hotter, or run it longer.
If you ran it at 105 like I suggest in the video, you might bump up to 115. Too hot and you'll cause emulsion problems.
The other option is go maybe 15 minutes and see how it does.
Sounds like you're close though!
@@GoEverywhere Awesome. I'm hoping not to add grain, so I'll give 15 minutes at 105 a go. Thank you!
@@JamieMPhoto How did this end up working out for you? I've always got HC-110 laying around and some Cinestill kits. I assume 16 minutes worked alright for the blix?
When you washed it after the first 12 minutes did you just rinse it or did you use stop bath
I never use stop bath, just a good wash.
@@GoEverywhere ok. I had some stinky results today and I'm trying to eliminate each variable. I'm developing 15 yea expired ektachrome and Elite II slides. the first two were complete failures. on the third I left it in the HC for 24 minutes instead of 12 and I actually saw the b&w negs, but when I moved onto color it was the same result. a blank, flesh colored strip
Sounds like you MIGHT have bad film, but I'd say just go for a long time in the first dev. If you're not getting the B&W negative in the first step you're guaranteed to get nothing in later steps. Good luck!!
hello, good night, today I developed 2 chrome films, I used the chemical D76 Stock for 12 minutes, then I exposed the film to light for 3 minutes, then I developed with the chemical developer Stock C41 for 3'15”, whitener for 3'15” , fixer for 3'30” and stabilizer for 1':30, but the image was very clear, without contrast and without colors, it was very clear, almost not seeing the images well, where did I go wrong? Do you have an email where I can send you a photo?
This is for negative films?
no for slides
how u measure the developing time with hc-110? it's a bit hard to get a specific chemical so i plan to use another bw developer, but still i dont know the developing time standard. thx btw for this information
I've had reports from other people that around a 5 stop push is close with most other developers. Find the times for a 5 stop push and try that!
How do you get the base (the black) darker?
Go longer in your color developer. If that doesn't work, cut your first dev times a little bit.
I have some Monobath B/W and c41 (both from cinestill), do you think this combination will work?
the monobath has a fixer so no
do you know what the 1st dev times would be with rodinal?
I don't use Rodinal often so I don't have a time for it, but try the times for about a 5 stop push. That'll likely get you close.
Is HC-110 just black & white developer? I have arista b&w developer and I was wondering if that works too
Yes HC110 is a B&W developer. But not all B&W devs are the same. Yours will probably work too but the times will be different so you'll have to experiment to figure out your times.
think this would work with d76? also why did you choose 12 min for your hc110? want to try this with a roll of expired e100G i shot, don't feel like xpro again.
edit: thanks for showing this method to us, btw, appreciate you.
It will work with D76, but you'll have to figure out your own dev times. Try for about a 4-5 stop push. I figured out 12 minutes by trial and error really. Kept adjusting till it looked good.
So i have some old 120 ektachrome and my first try had emulsion lifts on it so what temperature range should i do it at?
On the directions of my c41 kit it sais 70-104 f but it doesn't give the time for the 70 f can you help me?
Hi, help needed. In the end of the process my film was dark grey without any traces of any images. After the black and white developer, I could see some dense negative images. Then I developed in c41 developer and then blixed with a bleacher from c41 kit. I am thinking maybe one of my chemicals were expired cause they were used before. But which one could it be?
Hi, first of all thank you for this video!It worked very nicely with many films. Be recently I tried with a very old ektachrome film and the outcome was not as I expected. Maybe it is because of the age of the film ( use before 1986 ) or there might be something to adjust depending the age of the film.
The problem is that the films is overall very blue. The black parts ( unexposed parts of the film ) are very blue and almost transparent. I wonder if there was a time to adapt in the BW developper, the Color developper or blix. For me it looks over developped, but maybe it is something else. Any ideas or suggestions are welcome :)
I'd say its PROBABLY just too old... But you might try going much longer on the first developer. If its viable thats the most likely way to prove it.
Why the first time you pull out the film is larger?
Because I had trimmed the film ends in between takes of the shot.
I just tried this with negative film for fun. I’m curious if the first development still needs to be so hot. And also could a blue filter cancel the orange backing
You can reduce the heat but you'll have to develop longer. You'd be on your own for figuring out times though.
Several people have suggested using a blue filter, and while I'm not convinced it'll work I need to get out and try it. Its certainly an interesting idea!
Also, I've got a tutorial on how to do this with C41 film that does sorta cancel out the orange backing. Its on my channel as well.
Did basically this with ECN-2 on E-4 motion picture ektachrome I have 2 bulk 25ft rolls of it and it gives a green cast and is super low iso. I think im gonna try to over expose and overdevelop to rid of the green cast
That sounds like a smart plan. Being E-4 it might just have lost some sensitivity due to age. But more than likely you can sort out a method of exposure and development that'll get you decent results since you have a fair bit of it.
Hello! I wanted to see if the first black and white developer is complete with stop and fixer. or just revealing?
The first developer is just to create the initial mask. You do NOT want to use fixer, that will destroy the rest of the silver you use to make the color reversal image.
Nice to see the film with the slides is different from the film you fog and roll in again. A magic trick I presume ?
Sharp eye! Sadly not magic, I screwed up filming that part and had to go back and re-film that bit but I'd already cut and mounted those slides so I had to use a different strip.
Wow!
Thanks for the info! :)
My pleasure, hope its useful!
@@GoEverywhere Yes very, especially since i pnly buy a 2.5 liter tetenal e6 kit when i have 30 rolls to develop for the reason you also mentioned with the short life the mixed opened and mixed chemichals has.
@@GoEverywhere By the way, how did you find this method?
I've worked with a lot of reversal methods over there years and reverse engineering processes(I've got several other tutorials for other reversal processes, and I even do Kodachrome K-14!) I knew already how mask and light reversal worked from reading E2 and E3 docs from Kodak, and C41 chemistry is well known to develop E6 film in color since people do X-pro with it all the time. So I did a light reversal with C41, and got nice results.
I got a very dense roll that's hard to look through. What could this be? any suggestions?
Same for me - I attribute it to the fact I didn't use HC-110 as this video specifies, but good question. digitalfilmnerd.wordpress.com/2020/07/23/cross-processing-madness-evolution-part-iii/
Usually that means not enough first developer time, run you first developer a bit longer and see if it improves.
Looks like you got some salvageable results (and a great little writeup there!) Chris! I'd suggest you either go longer or hotter on the first developer, it looks like you're just a bit underdeveloped with your first dev. Good first try though!
@@GoEverywhere Thanks for the reply! I'll try it
Anyone have any idea if this should work the same way with Ilfosol 3?
In theory yes it should... But you're on your own for times. Try about a 5 stop push to start out.
Only somewhat related (Will absolutely try this with some Velvia, though), I wonder why E6 needs formaldehyde, but C-41 doesn't.
Formalin/Formaldehyde is used as a stabilizer for E6. I would GUESS that very long term this process might not be as color-fast as actual E6, however I've got slides in my collection that are probably 10 years old now that still look fine. We'll see in 30 years how they hold up I guess :P
@@GoEverywhere But yeah, for how much it cost to do a E6 with non-reusable chemistry (Think Fuji Hunt chemistry), the price for entry is usually quite intimidating (Bordering $350) and it seems like the margins for how much you save versus mailing out are very slim, unlike C-41, where you end up saving an astronomically large amount of money, even with the single-use chemistry, like the Kodak Flexicolor stuff. My only concern is the price for experimentation, since expired film can be tricky to judge, and in-date slide film can be very expensive at times. Still going to try this.
For sure. E6 is an expensive way to shoot, sadly. Because it can really be magic when you nail it. I was just getting tired of only getting a couple of rolls through the kit before it goes bad, this was a good trade off.
Who says it doesn't. In fact, the original C-41 formula calls for a formalin type stabilizer. Formalin was omitted for some other chemical when formaldehyde became politically incorrect. The DIY kits are beginning to omit stabilizer altogether. I suspect that this has nothing to do with the chemistry. It's about saving a few cents on chemicals and a plastic bag for them, plus an expectation that most DIY users will scan their C-41 negatives after processing and then toss them before they have time to fade. Did someone say "Tetenal"?
I tried this process following all the steps carefully twice and I got 2 blank rolls of slide film. I might have done something wrong but just in case I'm not trying it on any more rolls for now. Hope I can eventually figure out what happened.
Strange! Sounds like something didn't work out for sure! Let me know if I can help any with troubleshooting.
@@GoEverywhere Thanks! The first dev seemed to work, I got the milky negatives, but the c-41 process completely removed those images from the base, I don't know why but it sounds odd.
Just tried this out last night had some positives but the color was very faint also some of the images stayed as a low contrast negative anyone know how to fix this?
This depends on a few things. Were they foggy or did they clear fully?If they're foggy your first dev likely didn't go strong enough, if they're cleared it your second most likely. Either way hotter or longer on the dev that failed has a good chance of fixing your issues!
@@GoEverywhere what was weird is the roll had 4 shots that looked light slides just colored shifted to cyan and then 4 were just like black and white negatives and then I had another 4 that looked solarized, but I realized when I went to shoot another roll today to try it again tonight I left my light meter to over expose by 2.5 stops when I was shooting some 8x10. This could have been the issue I shot a roll normal exposure today so I'll see how it turns out. Thanks for the reply and sharing this amazing process.
Thats SUPER bizarre. I don't have a good answer for that! Over exposing when making slides can cause a lot of issues, including making thin slides or weird color shifts. Hopefully that was your problem. Good luck!
@@GoEverywhere just finished developing the new roll and they look amazing. Thanks again.
Awesome! Glad it worked out this round!
Didnt work for me
Why r u developing like 6 frames?
Because I roll 6 frame cartridges or testing cameras I've just rebuilt. It sucks to shoot 36 exposures just to find out a shutter is capping or not running at the right speed. 6 frames lets me test a camera quickly and adjust as needed.
@@GoEverywhere oh thats smart, def worth the hassel esp cause i assume you already roll most of your film anyway
Yep, most of my film is hand roll especially for testing cameras. Its cheaper and cuts down on wasted rolls.
You are referring to standard C41, but there is no blix, but separate bleach and fixer in the standard process. These are simplified home processing kits, which are compromising the results with the advertised "ease to use". Also, your process does not include conditioner, which should be used for E6 film in order to preserve the colors. This in not done by a standard C41 final rinse. C41 film has stabilizer in emulsion, but E6 film does not. Also, your claim that this is not cross processing is false, because the developing agent used in C41 is different from the one used in E6, CD-4 and CD-3 namely. This will lead to minor color shift. In reality, if the film stock is an expired film manufactured more than 10 years ago, or even more, this probably is the least of your problems.
Ok so I tried it and it didn’t really work out for me… so I used the first developer (the B&W) and it came out of the tank looking normal. I could see the negatives and the film was light grey, so I moved onto the color developer and the Blix.. I developed the film for 3:30 and the Blix for 13 min (it’s usually 6:30 but I doubled it) however after rinsing the film and taking it out I saw no positives or anything at all all I see is the blank emulsion and on the other side it seems to be blue? I have the “Unicolor” c-41 kit btw,
Any thoughts on why this is happening?
I forgot to mention yes I did fog the film I held it up to the light for 8 seconds each side
Try more than 8 seconds. Usually this happens if the film isn't fogged enough.
Thanks for the good work! However my first roll came out kinda blue with little image shown. But during the hc110 dev, i got milky image and I somehow bleached for 12 minutes like you said double the standard time, and fix another 13 minutes, is it too long for the bleach and fix in separate steps? Should i go with standard 6.5m for bleach and 6.5m for fix? Thanks again!
P.S. I mixed hc110a instead of b, and I dev it for 12 minutes, is this also causing the bad results?
And I used Fuji velvia 100
after complete dry, it’s transparent with a bit blue tint. Cannot see any image at all
Don't tempt us with the k-14.
I have ISO 100 film. Should I reduce the Dev. time? My kit has separate Bleach & Fix. Should I just use them normally like with regular C-41 film?
I wish Kodak will make P1600
Man, seriously. I have some in my freezer still but I'm quickly running out. That was such a good film.
what kind of magik is this?!
Most certainly the vilest of witchcraft!
Oarsome !
Did anyone notice the slides he took out at the end of the film was not the one he exposed to light? :P
You've got a sharp eye there! You're correct. I screwed up filming that part and had to go back and re-film that bit but I'd already cut and mounted those slides so I had to use a different strip.
What is good here is that it demonstrated the theory and practice of reversal slide chemistry. With no showing of the end product, and more than a passing knowledge of E-6 chemistry, I suspect that "prefect" and "beautiful" may not be applicable. There is a critical chemical component in the first (B&W) developer, absent from HC-110, which bleaches out chemical fog formed in development. The omission means that the final positive image will never get true blacks. The fact that he's using a very fast Ektachrome film which had been discontinued 18 years previous probably didn't help.
is this real ? i feel like all of this is a joke
Totally not a joke. This is how I process all my E6 film these days.
@@GoEverywhere nice i'll give it a try then !
i really cant tell if this is a joke or not
If you mean the process. Nope. No joke here, this is a fully functioning alternative slide process.
It's no joke, this process really works!
Tutorial? It's Just you talking to the camera.. We see none of the process or results..
I show what I'm doing, and the results are at the end.