Thanks for the video. Been charging my battery for 2 years once a month. Checked for voltage back to the switch and nothing. Verified the charging system was working. Checked the purple wire and it was broken off at the second plug. No voltage due to corrosion, so I stripped the wire and checked again. It was hot regardless of the key position (I decided to cut the wire off and insulate it, didn't like a hot lead all the time). I found another purple lead with a female blade connect that was only hot with the key on and cut the purple lead at the plug. Crimped on a male blade and heat shrunk some insulation, and pressed it into the female blade connect, bypassing the second plug altogether. No more dragging out the battery charger and 100' cord every 3-4 weeks to cut the grass.
Great video. Also a good idea to test all the relays. My older Craftsman lawn tractor wasn't keeping the battery charged so I followed your procedure. I had voltage at the stator but not the rectifier. Was going to order a new rectifier but figured while I'm at it I might as well check the relays too. I found one bad one and replaced it, tested the rectifier again and got 14 volts. Bad relay was the one with a red wire going into it. I didn't trace all the wiring, just happy the battery is charging again.
Thank you sir for your great charging system videos, I watched both. They helped me track down a charging wire that was hooked up wrong for an 1999 xmark zero turn. I replaced the engine with a new carbureted 25hp Kohler, I didn’t want a new machine and try to stay away from ecm controlled machines. They had the charging wire from the factory/distributor running to the starter solenoid ? So I put an end on the wire and put it in the harness plug to the switch and now charging good! You speak slowly so I can understand and I appreciate you helping us all, thanks again!! Ron Smith
This totally helped me, thank you. My Kohler V-Twin 26hp was weak charging and couldn’t keep up after I added an electric fuel pump. I tested like you demonstrated and found the stator was good. I just head to clean connections like you mentioned, and now it’s back to 14v. Whew. Glad I don’t have to replace the stator.
Great demonstration. I just checked the charging system on my John Deere with the Kohler Command 23 engine. The engine would not turn over fast enough when attempting to start it. I did what you said and found out the stater and the voltage regulator both gave the correct outputs. In conclusion, the battery was not charging to the capacity it needed. So, I replaced the battery. A few years later, I replaced the battery when it turned out the problem was the voltage regulator. I am sure many people blame the battery like I did.
My son's Kohler 25hp wouldn't charge. I checked the stator output and was a whopping 44v. It was in fact a bad ground on the voltage regulator, easy fix. Thanks a LOT for the video.
Thanks for the video. Getting ready to apply this method on my Kohler Command 20. It's 20 years old and just had it serviced. The guy installed a new seal as it was leaking oil so I think he would have noticed any stator issues? Probably some rusty connections.
It does the same thing. It seems like it almost dies when I engage the PTO but it never has died from that. It's weird because I can run it all day and once I shut it down it doesen't want to start until it's cooled way down. At least before the guy worked on it. Now I have to jump it every time I shut it down.
@Corey-dy2cq He may not have checked the charging system if it was took in for just an Oil leak. But even if he did check it, Anything can go wrong after everything checks OK. As far as it almost dies when engaging PTO sound like it maybe running on one Cylinder if it's a twin Cylinder , Or Govenor is not set Correctly is where I would start.
He laid out very easy steps to follow. One of the stater wires slipped out of the plastic connector housing and was not making a good connection with the voltage regulator Did the test (s) like he showed everything tested good. Got the white wire locked back into the plastic connector housing plugged back onto the regulator. Putting out 14.5 volts! Thanks for the info probably saved me $100 + service bill at the shop !!
After you've verified the charging system in working properly and it's still not charging the battery, what's the next step to check the system. I have a new battery, new stator and new regulator so that eliminates three problems.
@earlpoole7172 Make sure the base of regulator has good Ground. The regulator will not work if the base has Ground issues. Multimeter on Ohms One lead to base of regulator one lead to ground on battery Negative. If Doesn't show that regulator is grounded. Check the jumper wire on regulator that goes from regulator bolts to one of the shroud bolts. Can't check the regulator Base Ground from here, You will be checking resistance between the wire and it will falsely show base is grounded. Kohler is bad for regulator loosing Ground at that jumper wire where it bolts to shroud. The shroud is plastic, but behind the shroud bolt goes into metal. If the base has a good ground Need to check wiring from regulator up to key Switch. Then from Key Switch goes to battery Positive side of Starter Solenoid.
This was a great video, I don’t have a connector with 3 wires on my voltage regulator, I have the 2 wires and I did what you said and put them on the outside terminals on the regulator however there isn’t a purple wire on the center terminal of the connector but on the other side of the motor there is a purple wire along with a green wire. Do you think the person I got the motor from cut the wire off on the regulator side or does the purple wire connect somewhere else inside the shroud? Your videos are so good thank you for posting them!😊
I was hoping you might go one more step. I found the video very good , My stator was putting out over 45, The rectifier was putting out 14-15 yet when I check the battery terminal, it was 12.7 which isn't enough to keep my battery charged. I welcome your thoughts as well as others that might have some insight. I checked the bottom fuse on my Exmark 60 Turf Tracer 23hp Kohler . Many thanks
That wire off voltage regulator goes to key Switch A1 or A2 usually Test key switch from B terminal to A1 or A2 terminal. You can disconnect battery and do a continuity test from wire on voltage regulator to key switch connector to find which terminal it is on key switch.
@@sartingarage8045 UPDATE: I could not sleep, the little voice inside my head was talking to me and said, Silly Boy , Check the fuses, Everything was reading perfect except at the battery. I had to physically take a pair of pliers and pull the top fuse from the holder (because it had fused to the plastic) It was fried. Put in another fuse and it was reading over 14 at the battery... Very happy and just wanted to share in the hopes it helps someone Else. WE all can learn from each other. Many Thanks
Great video.. I have a question. If ur stator is working (30-50vac) but ur regulator output (center pin) is under 12vdc with engine running. Would u say the regulator is bad?
@connellfarm315 No It could be but there has to be battery voltage to that wire or will not charge correctly. Also base of regulator has to be grounded. Watch my Kawasaki Charging Video will help alot I know it's Kawasaki But works the same way as Kohler, Just wires are connected different This is link ruclips.net/video/zRwkKNGkymU/видео.html Also this is a Ground test Video Shows you how to test the Voltage regulator Base Ground. ruclips.net/video/ogV7e8x0tZY/видео.html
Great video. One question though - couldn't you start by checking the regulator dc output first. Can't we assume the stator is good if the volts out are good?
Yes you can If you have charging voltage there and not at the battery. Stator and Regulator are working. The problem then would be wiring or faulty key switch
Very informative. I have 45vac at the two whites with the connector unpluged from the regulator, but only 9.5vdc at the purple when connected to the regulator. Both checks with Kohler running wide open. What's my problem or next check to be made. Thanks
Check base of regulator to make sure it is grounded. One lead on base of regulator, other lead on Ground to engine block or battery Negative. Kohlers have a jumper ground wire from base on regulator to engine Shroud and alot of times they lose connection. If base of regulator is not grounded remove and clean this wire where it connects. Also check Purple wire for battery Voltage with Key in ON position. There has to be battery voltage going to Regulator on purple wire for regulator to work correctly.
@@sartingarage8045 The regulator was not grounded, so I added a ground wire as per your video. I checked the DC voltage at both the regulator purple and the harness connector at the front of the engine by the spark plug, and I got 3.5vdc at each location with the key switch "on", but not running. Does it make any difference which way the regulator connector plugged into the regulator?
Sounds like you either have a power problem to key Switch or the Key Switch itself is bad. Here is a key Switch Test Video. ruclips.net/video/rOqwb0KaHQI/видео.html After testing key switch make sure you have battery Voltage to the B terminal in Connector that plugs into Key Switch.
Excellent video troubleshooting a Kohler. My issue was exactly as you described. The yellow right terminal to the block ground, the screw face and inside was corroded with rust. Also, the left side yellow terminal was sparking intermittently . Looks like a poor engineer design, the left terminal going the the rectifier is threaded through and secured by the plastic shroud only, and stripped out if you tighten it. Kohler needs a more robust mount than a screw through plastic fastening method. Thanks again, you earned a new subscriber here.
This solved my charging problem. I had accidentally left the grounding strap off whilst replacing the two ignition modules. Unfortunately, I found this video after I had ordered a new regulator-rectifier module and waited for it to come in.
You did a great job explaining this. A neighbor gave me a John Deere L130 and it is a Kohler CV23S. It will not stay charge. I am definitely going to try this.
ruclips.net/video/zRwkKNGkymU/видео.html Watch this Video also. Although it is a Kawasaki Engine. Kohler works the same way. Alot of good info in this video
I usually remove battery to charge it just to prevent other issues. But if everything is working correctly and key Switch is off. Even though battery is connected in Equipment, It is not connected to anything that is drawing current from battery. Would be hard to short out components.
I have another Video that will help you that is more comprehensive. The only difference is this Video is on a Kawasaki Engine. The charging works the same way. The only difference is the output on the kohler Voltage Regulator is the center Pin. On the Kawasaki it's Pin to Right. Left 2 are AC. ruclips.net/video/zRwkKNGkymU/видео.html
Hi, thanks for your video... I'm getting 30V AC from stator but nothing from regulator...with engine off, using a multimetter i probed the center pin and neg post on battery and had no DC voltage... I was told there should be 12V when doing that. So do I have an open circuit on the positive side?.. what is my next step? Thank you.
There should be voltage to that center Pin with key Switch in ON position. If there is NO Voltage with key on, Then yes you have a open short, bad key Switch. I have another Video that is on a Kawasaki engine and is more comprehensive. The only difference is your output is in the center on voltage regulator. Kawasaki Output pin is on one side. But watch this Video and it will help you Link below ruclips.net/video/zRwkKNGkymU/видео.html
I turned key on and still had no voltage so I followed the wire to the plug and the wire had broken off the plug connector! So I reconnected the wire. I have 12V now and will be able to test regulator soon, but hat was more than likely the problem and my battery no charge issue should be fixed. Really appreciate your generous help!
Thank you for this video! I stopped at 3:36, checked the ground wire and Viola! fixed. I've been dealing with this glitch for over a year. Thank you so much!
Great videos and thank you for them! I have a question about my John Deere Sabre 1948hv. When I turn the tractor on my battery light has been coming on. What are the scenarios that make that light come on?
Multiple things can cause this light to come on. Battery Ground to frame Voltage Regulator Ground connection Key Switch Defective which would depend on how the battery light is wired up Weak Stator There's a few to check
You just saved me from buying a stator that wasn’t needed! Thank you for saving me time and money. It turns out that my connection to the regulator was loose. Thanks again!
I have a 1985 Ropper lawn tractor with a Briggs & Stratton twin opposed 14 watch. I have an over charging problem but someone told me they’re are no regulators on that machine. Is there any way you can verify and let me know thank you.
Im pretty sure There is Not a Voltage Regulator on that machine. It's all built into Stator under Flywheel. If it's over charging I'd say the stator is probably shorted out. I would replace it
Hi how are you Startin.. I have tried everything you have showed.. Everything is good. Stator 43.2 Battery charge 14.5 My problem is.. Why when I turn my key on the battery light stays on? Even when the mower is running at full throttle. Please help me resolve this issue.. Great videos.. Thank you!
Sounds like your charging System is working fine. Just your dash charging light is saying it's not. Need to run the wires down that go to that light. Seems you have bad connection going to the charging light.
@user-en6by2kd2k It has to go to switch If you connect straight to battery will have constant draw on battery. When Switch is in OFF position Breaks connection from that wire to battery
My Cub Cadet just up and died this evening while it was in low-idle. I thought it ran out of gas but it ran out of lightning. I just put a new bat. In last summer. It was flat! Apparently I have a charging system problem. Hope it's just a regulator. Thanks for the video
An update... found a blown 20amp fuse. (Engine was idling with blades disengaged.) May have been a low voltage situ. (High amp) or possibly a faulty regular or stator.
I have a kolher 18 craftsman riding mower with a electric powered hydraulic front bucket loader that’s not charging I hope mines simple as a bad ground going to mess with it today thank you didn’t know witch wires went to the stator
@Sartin Garage I've got Kawa fh680v with 31 acv coming out of the stator, 14.6 dcv coming out of the regulator, and battery charging voltage showing 14.6 at full throttle. The excessive voltage isn't blowing fuses but is boiling a new battery in 3-4 days. Not sure why this is happening? Please help. Thanks!
14.6 volts is Normal Charging Voltage When you say boiling a battery are you meaning battery boils over or are you just meaning battery goes dead. If the battery goes dead over a few days Sounds like you have a draw on battery while mower is not in use. I have a video on testing for this Link below ruclips.net/video/7f2dR0rT1fw/видео.html
I have a 26.5hp Kohler horizontal engine. It quit charging. Cleaned up all connectors and put a new regulator on. I'm getting 43vac to the regulator but only 1vdc coming out. Any ideas. New battery. Even ran a separate jumper ground from battery to regulator housing and no change. Thank you
Most Regulators have to have battery voltage to the output that your only getting 1vdc out of. This voltage comes from key Switch B terminal on key switch comes from Starter Solenoid, small wire with fuse in it Connects to A1 or A2 terminal thru key switch A1 or A2 go to Voltage Regulator Watch this video it is a Kawasaki But everything works the same Just wires on Regulator are on different There are some good tips and tricks in this video ruclips.net/video/zRwkKNGkymU/видео.html I also have key switch test video link below ruclips.net/video/fAWMFy9L9iI/видео.html
I have a nice running k181 a on a go cart I’m finishing up. Quick question with a generic eBay rectifier does it matter witch way I connect the two white engine wires? As long as the middle post off the rectifier goes to the correct post on the key switch right? Also an amp meter can be spliced directly into the wire that powers the key switch without problem?
Thank you for the kohler video it helped me a lot. Turns out my kohler is putting out 14.5 volts but its not getting to the battery can i just run that purple wire straight to the battery? Instead of messing with the switch?
No you can not It will constantly drain your battery. Most of the time the key switch is the problem. But need to check connections from that wire to key switch From the key switch it goes to starter solenoid If you follow the battery positive cable down to Solenoid , there will be a small wire attached to that same post on the solenoid. That goes to the key switch Check all those connections and test key switch I have a video on testing key switch
So if you start from voltage regulator DC output wire That goes to a connector if you follow the wire. Then it goes to key switch terminal A1 Inside key switch it connects A1 to B terminal. B terminal wire comes from the Battery post side of sokenoid The wire I was telling you about in previous reply
Don't know if you will see this or not but when I check the AC voltage I get 43 but when I do the DC voltage it will only read .19. Does that mean the voltage regulator is bad? Or what
It could mean voltage regulator is bad. But you need to do a few more tests. Watch this Video Link Below. It is on a Kawasaki engine But the charging system works the same. Only difference on the Kawasaki the DC pin on voltage regulator is the Right Pin and 2 on left are AC. To where your Kohler Center Pin is DC and two outside ones are AC. But this Video will show you other tests Testing regulator base ground Check for Battery Voltage on DC side with key Switch ON and shows you how to do it. Fast Version ruclips.net/video/eZndhOJLp64/видео.html Slow Version ruclips.net/video/zRwkKNGkymU/видео.html
Turn Key to on position Check Voltage at Regulator where you are getting 1 volt You should have battery Voltage at this wire with just Key On Position. Engine Not Started If there is NO battery voltage at this connection Your problem is wiring to and from key Switch or a faulty key switch. I have a Key Switch Test Video
I'm only getting 15 volts AC out of the two outside wires. Would it make anything at all if one of the magnets came off the fly wheel? Maybe the stator is bad? It is sending 12.7 volts dc back to the battery out of the middle wire I tested.
Great video. You were straight to the point and explained the process so the average guy like me who isn’t a Master Tech could follow along. My Kohler C18 regular has a hole melted in in behind one of the stator wires. Thanks for the video!
Following your process, I tested my stator and got 41 volts. However, when I tested my center prong on the rectifier, I'm only getting 12. I thought it was bad and decided to order/install a brand new one. However, I'm still only getting 12. Any thoughts/ideas on why I may not be getting the required 13 - 15 volts? Thanks!!!
Check ground to base of rectifier. Usually on a kohler the rectifier has a small wire going from rectifier mounting bolt to a shroud bolt. Kohler is bad to lose the ground at the shroud bolt. There is a trick to this test. If you put your meter leads one on rectifier base and one on the bolt on shroud You will show ground But you are actually getting a reading thru the wire. Put one lead on battery negative and the other lead on base of rectifier to test.
So I know I need a new battery for my Scag as I've had to put the battery charger on every time I start the mower. Today I started mowing and probably mowed 30 minutes and had to stop and move our trampoline, pushed in electric PTO, set brake and got off mower to moved trampoline. Got back on mower released brake and engaged PTO and the engine started missing bad, disengaged PTO and missing went away. Idled engine down engaged PTO and the missing was gone, gave her full power and and was able to mow another minutes and she died right there in the yard. I would like to know your thoughts on this matter. Tomorrow I will be replacing the battery for sure to start with.
There is two things I can think of most likely wrong. 1st you do need to check the charging system, 2nd thing is if it is a twin cylinder engine, sounds like you may be running on one cylinder. The engine will still run great, but will be low on power. So when you are engaging the Pto. Engine doesnt have enough power to turn the blades as far as spinning the blades. But at the same time if battery is really low This will also cause engine to stall qhen blades are engaged. There is not enough Power in battery to keep PTO clutch engaged
@@sartingarage8045 Replaced the battery today and it fired right up. I was able to finish mowing without any problems. You were right about the battery not having enough power to keep PTO engaged. I will follow your video on How to Test Kohler Charging System for a more thorough diagnoses and make sure there isn't another underling issue. I can't thank you enough as you saved me a lot of money and more importantly TIME.
My Kohler is putting out about 45vac but the regulator is barely 12.6vdc. If I check just the center prong in the plug, it reads battery voltage. I bent the center pin up so it wouldn’t be in the plug and it read 0.7vdc. I think the regulator is bad.
@ksmith0110 Check Center Pin on Regulator for Battery Voltage with key ON, Check base of Regulator to make sure it is grounded. Meter on Ohms One lead on base of Regulator other lead to Engine block or battery Ground. Should be infinite. If both these tests are Good Replace Regulator Links for Regulator in Description
Hello!! My mower only runs as long as I have my jumper cables connected from my car, so when I check the output from the mowers regulator am I just reading my cars regulator and not the lawn mower? As soon as I disconnect the jumper cables the mower dies.. all the connections are clean and the voltage regulator ground is good. Thanks!!
Let me get this right Your Battery is Dead and mower wont turn over. So your connecting jumper cables from your car to the mowers battery and then mower will start, but when you disconnect cables from car. Mower engine shuts off immediately. If this is the case First thing you need to do is charge the battery that is in the mower, If it will charge, If not buy a new battery. After you get a good fully charged battery in mower. Start the mower and check charging system to battery.
My Kohler 23hp is only getting around 20-23 volts ac from the stator even though just replaced it with a new unit. Any idea what else the issue could be?
i have a courage 19, stater and dc volts are correct. should the engine once running, continue running with battery disconnected? if not what would be suspect?
Hi I have a Koehler 7000 that keeps popping the fuse as soon as I turn on the key. I have traced it down to the charging system. I have removed the rectifier thinking it was the problem, installed a new one and I get the same results, popes fuse. I also found out that I can turn on the mower and cut grass without the rectifier. I turned i5 on and tested the stator and it is giving me 34 or so AC. I am thinking it is the blue wire between the two white ones. What long term harm will I have if I run it without a rectifier and just place a charge every time I finish mowing.
Thanks, that was a great help . When checking the purple wire part of the metal tab that makes a connection to the voltage regulator has fallen off. This may be the problem that has plagued me for months . Is that whole wire assembly to the voltage regulator easily replaced ? And if it's not too personal , which part of the U.S is your accent from. Cheers from Australia.
The mower your working on in another video looks like my Husqvarna Z246. I have been having trouble with the safety switches . Could you do a video on testing all the switches ? Thank you, Wayne.
Thank you sir. Was able to fix mine. Went through 2 batteries in a year. Now it’s charging properly. Mine must have been built at quitting time on Friday. Didn’t have a ground jumper at all.
@glenbush3315 I would test Key Switch Link Below for testing Key Switch The purple wire at Regulator goes to key Switch. Then Key Switch Connects that wire inside Switch to the B terminal on Switch. Which is Battery. The B terminal wire on Switch goes to Starter Solenoid on Battery post side of solenoid. So if you follow your Battery Positive Cable to Solenoid. There will be a Small usually Red wire connected to same post on Solenoid. This is the B wire from key Switch Key Switch Test Video Link Below ruclips.net/video/rOqwb0KaHQI/видео.html
Is a 25 403 20 voltage regulator interchangeable with a 25 403 21? The original is a 25 403 20 on my 2012 cub cadet 25Hp Kohler Courage. I have a 25 403 21 available to use, but don't want to if it might cause damage to the charging system. Thanks!
@@sartingarage8045 Thanks for your prompt reply. Your videos are great helping us weekend mechanics narrow down simple problems where we'd otherwise not even know where to start. Thanks again!
So, I just checked the stator, throttle wide open and it's only reading 1.2 to 1.3. The grounding bolts look good, no rust. I have yet to check the voltage output, because I think it's a moot point at this time. What would you suggest my next step would be?
1.2 volts AC voltage is Not enough Pull Flywheel and check magnets. If Magnets seem to be ok and in place Replace Stator Note: If magnets are loose or have fallen out There is a certain way they go back in Get back with me if they have fallen out
Upon further investigation, my dumbbutt didn't have my leads pushed in all the way on the meter. I am getting proper amount of ac voltage from the stator, and proper amount of dc voltage out of the regulator. My issue is that after running my mower until it's warmed up or hot, it won't restart if I have tto shut it off for a minute or two. I have to wait till it's cooled off for 45 minutes to an hour.
There are several things this can be. But from what your telling me it sounds as if Carb Needle Not seating properly causing fuel overload after engine shut off, Don't think this is Ignition Coil problem due to engine would just shut off on its own. Possible Key Switch Short intermittent Or Maybe Valves need adjusted When engine is cool the valves will have less clearance.
I did everything you say on one of your videos about charging problems I even change the stator, en I'm Still getting 14v ac switch is working fine what else can be?? 60" ex mark z
14 vac is not enough What did the magnets look like inside flywheel. If there is a magnet missing or magnet that has came loose and has moved Stator will not output correctly. Magnets should be equally spaced apart and the magets are push pull push pull Meaning like first magnent is pull which would be like a regular magnet. The second magnet will push away Does the mower have electric Pto to engage blades or a lever to engage blades
@@sartingarage8045 yes then machine have electric switch to engage the Blades I never change that part get. On the magnets are in place they are all looking nice and clean, when I first see your video I did everything you show in your video and I was getting 16 volts ac and maybe 2v DC now with the new stator I am getting only 14.5 volts ac🤣🤣
Make sure when you check Stator Voltage you have the throttle at full throttle. Stator will show lower voltage at lower engine RPM's. May need to check RPM's with a Tachometer. I dont know what engine you have, but RPM's should be around 3400. Need to check spec on your engine for specific rpm.
My Kohler 25 hp PS-SV730-3022 Husqvarna riding mower is giving me grief. I went to start it, the battery was completely dead, and it my battery charger advises that there isn't a battery hooking up to it when I tried to charge the battery. I suspect that the voltage rectifier/regulator has failed and allows AC current into the battery. Two brand new batteries, no idea. Would this be a possible solution? The tractor will not turn over, even with a booster battery. Any ideas?
That is possible. Also spark voltage from ignition Coil can go thru ground causing this. Usually will give a high voltage reading especially at the pto clutch connector. Running up to 90 volts. Will damage the clutch eventually. Once you get a good charged battery in the mower. You need to check for this voltage at the clutch. If it is High at the clutch If I remember correctly will be a negative Voltage because power is going thru Ground. Take shroud off of engine and disconnect single wire to ignition coil ( usually Black wire) Put shroud back on for safety from flywheel. Start the engine and see if High voltage is gone at pto clutch. If voltage is Now Normal, Replace ignition Coil
To add to my previous comment, the first A/C test test was only showing 26 volts. Is that a problem ? as the second test was showing 14.5 volts on a fully charged battery.
Hello, my vintage tractor from the 1970s has a 10 HP iron block Kohler engine that stopped charging the battery. I replaced both the stator and voltage regulator and it still doesn't charge even though the new regulator is properly grounded to the frame. Could it be that the flywheel magnets are too weak to produce voltage? The ohm meter reading shows fluctuwating numbers on the readout from the regulator with the engine running at high speed. Thanks
@TheWaterbug101 That is a possibility. It's been awhile since I've had my hands on one like you have But if one magnet is missing or has came loose inside the flywheel. You will get erratic readings on the meter. I think I would pull that Flywheel and atleast check the magnets. Tip: Those Magnets are Push Pull Push pull all the way around the Flywheel. So if you have a magnet and put it to the first magnet, It will either draw magnet to it or you will feel it try to push magnet away. So if the first one is pull Next one will be Push Next one will be pull All the way around
Is it possible to put the connecter that plugs into the voltage regulator on backwards? Mine was just unplugged and it’s hard to tell which way it was plugged in originally. And it well plug in ether way
For most kohler voltage regulators it doesn't matter. But to put it on like it was from factory. There should be a small tab on one side of connector. The other side of connector just flat. Flat side towards the engine
Yes But need to be ran to key switch otherwise will drain battery down when not in use Usually A1 or A2 on key switch Use a multimeter in ohms to test Turn key to on position Test B to A1 should have continuity If not Test B to A2 Purple wire to which ever has continuity with key on
@@sartingarage8045 Problem is , I removed the key switch and used a Push Button Starter ? I have the kill switch on a Toggel switch . Could I put The Purple Wire on a toggle switch also ???
I'm getting 30.6 from sator and 12.4 from voltage regulator. Does that mean voltage regulator is weak or bad? Mower shows low voltage 11.7 when mowing .
Make sure base of regulator has a good ground. In this video it shows you how to check this. I also have another video on checking ground connections. If ground to regulator is good Replace voltage regulator
I’m getting 15.62 volts at the battery and voltage regulator when the engine is off. Brand new battery. Engine runs, but the key won’t start it. I can hear it click in the on position but the start position does nothing. I have to put a jumper in the starter and it fires right up. Turning the key off shuts it off. When running, the voltage at the battery and at the regulator is 17.6-17.9. I replaced the voltage regulator and get the same exact readings. I tested the stator from a Koehler video and it showed to be good. Is the high voltage (17.6+ volts) when running a sign of something else or are my switches just fried? John Deere stx38 yellow deck, about 25 years old. Thanks.
Nice walk through on the Kohnler charging system. I have a similar setup, but with a Tecumseh twin 25 hp w/elec. PTO that uses a 2 terminal voltage regulator instead of the 3 terminal your Kohler has. I've been nursing along a low/no charge battery for the summer, keeping a 3A charger/maintainer on it between mows, just getting around to taking a look today. Figured I'd share. I initially suspected the alternator winding (stator), but confirmed it's putting out just under 30v AC in to the regulator. When checking the B+ side of the regulator, it's only showing batt voltage at WOT. Two questions; 1) is there a bench test I can do/measure the voltage regulator before condemning it bad, even thought I'm pretty confident it's the root cause? It shows open on continuity and about 15 ohms resistance, but the longer I wait,t the lower the resistance creeps. I thought it should have a reading much higher, but not really certain? 2) the voltage regulator I need (1A183-164) is NLA on all the sites I've checked so far, any ideas where to find an old part that's been discontinued like this? Don't know if I want to trust a used one. Thanks!
You have good AC You have battery voltage to regulator But no output from regulator higher than battery voltage. Make sure base of regulator has a good ground. Base has to be grounded or will not charge. If you have good ground to base Replace regulator
@@sartingarage8045 Yep, that's the one I ordered the other day. I found it by looking in an old Tecumseh OEM Parts Guide, using the TVT691 engine. It's virtually the same as my VTX691. I also wanted to let you know that I confirmed continuity between the rectifier stack up to my engine and through the mounting hardware. I'll be glad to not have to keep hooking up that charger every time. Thanks again for your feedback!
22 volts is definitely Low. I would pull the flywheel and check internal Flywheel Magnets. They should be evenly spaced apart and if you have magnets that have fell out. You can epoxy them back, but make sure you install magnets in push pull sequence. Meaning if you take a magnet and put it to each magnet on the flywheel. One should push magnet away next magnet on flywheel will draw magnet to it. Needs to do this all the way around flywheel. If flywheel looks ok. Make sure your engine is grounded good to negative on battery. If all checks out ok Replace Stator.
@@sartingarage8045 I put the meter leads into the plug like you did in the video, and got 32 volts..eariler I was trying to hold them when I got 22 volts. Your videos helped a lot, my regulator was not grounded. I had put two new coils on this Kohler, when i put it back together, i must have put it back together wrong. How is the regulator grounded from the factory?
@@sartingarage8045 I found the problem, it has a metal plate that bolted behind the regulator, then bolted to a lower shroud cover. Bolted that on and getting 13.43 volts , before i just had 12.53 volts. Thanks for posting the videos.
Thanks for this video! I have a Scott's by JD, 2348 Kohler 23hp engine very similar to your video. Any idea why the battery would not charge (batter light comes on) when the mower (PTO) is engaged?
Does it charge when PTO is disengaged And Not charge when PTO is engaged. If so your gonna have to chase the charging wiring to find where the connection is lost. If its not charging only while engaged Most likely PTO switch is losing the connection for charging
Sartin Garage it was not charging until I followed your trouble shooting video. Now it charges only when PTO is NOT engaged. The battery light comes on when PTO is engaged. Thanks
I guess I'm not understanding exactly what your saying. If it's running and your Charging. What's the issue of needing to disconnect battery while it's running ?
I need a little bit of help. I've engine swapped mowers before, but just the other day my dad blew the briggs engine in his AYP craftsman, then got a 16.5hp kohler engine that says craftsman on it but was on a MTD when we got it. The regulator was completely bypassed. I got to looking at the stator wires, yellow and black, and noticed that there was a factory installed diode or what I assume was a diode on the black wire that had blown and melted. So my question is, do these kohlers need both a diode and rectifier on the charging wire, or are we dealing with mixed up parts? Can I wire it up using the diode from the briggs or do I need to use the regulator that wasnt hooked up? This mower has manual deck engagement and AC headlights.
Let me get this right The Briggs Engine has No external voltage regulator/Rectifier. But the Kohler engine has a voltage regulator. If this is the case You will use the center pin on voltage regulator to go to the mower factory connector which should only be 2 wire connector. You will have to figure out which wire in the two pin connector to connect center wire of voltage regulator to. One of the wires in the two pin connector is ground. Dont want to connect it to ground. Best to pull key switch and usually terminal A1 on key switch Use a ohm meter and find the wire in the two pin connector that connects to A1 on key switch. This will be the wire that you will connect center pin from voltage regulator to. May have to put other wire in the 2 pin connector to ground for it to charge
@@sartingarage8045 Yes the original briggs only had a diode on the charging wire, no rectifier. The kohler appears to have had a diode that blew and melted the wire, as well as the 3 pin rectifier, which wasn't even hooked up. Someone had messed with the wiring before. I'm just wondering if the kohler needs both the diode that blew as well as the rectifier, or if some kohlers had only a diode and this fan shroud with the rectifier came off another engine.
The Kohlers Engines came with both. The difference would be if mower has electric Pto Clutch or Electric Pto engagement. Those will have a better charging system on them which will have a rectifier/voltage regulator. Mowers with a lever to engage blades Most would not have a voltage regulator and charging system is less output. Most mowers now have electric pto
Thank you for your video this is my beginning stages of trying to fix my Kohler CV 22 hp engine. When I tested the two white wires my engine would not stay running to complete the test so I just held the key on and it looks like on my meter I got around 45 to 50 V. Would you happen to know why the engine would not stay running with the connector disconnected? Then I proceeded to check the sea vault on the purple center wire on the connector to ground and did not get any voltage there at all so would that mean it is the stater I am to replace which is under the shroud?
Sartin Garage OK Sartin I just tested it with the refractor attached and on my DC voltage on the center terminal I did get the 12 V however when I tested the AC two white terminals I only got 22.8 V so would that mean my stater is bad
I would think 22.8 volts would be enough Its a bit low, but I think its ok Engine off but Key on Should be battery voltage to purple center wire. If the voltage is Ok on purple wire Make sure base of voltage regulator is grounded. Should be a small wire connected to the voltage regulator going to shroud that grounds regulator. One lead on voltage regulator base Other lead to engine block or Negative ground. Dont use the bolt to ground to that is connected from the voltage regulator to engine shroud. As this will give you a false reading of ground due to its actually checking the wire.. If all ground is good and have battery voltage to purple wire Replace Voltage Regulator
Checked out my kohler charge system. Stator producing 43 a/c volts. Regulator 0 d/c Replaced regulator. Producing 9 volts d/c now at full throttle grounds seem to good. Ideas? Battery voltage is 12.8
Make sure base of regulator is grounded. If base is not grounded , regulator will not output. Also with key on make sure you have battery voltage to DC output on voltage regulator. Watch the video I have on Kawasaki charging system. Although a different engine, charging is the same. There are some helpful tips in this video. If all tests show OK replace regulator
@@sartingarage8045 yes I did watch that video, it was very helpful. I do have a good ground as well dc voltage with key on at regulator is same as the battery tests. Can I run a wire direct from regulator output to battery see if that charges?
I know theres a problem with mine cause i took each drained battery off my zero turn mower and used them on my other mowers and charged it a little then started it up and let it run on my Briggs engines and their staying charged on those. but gets drained on the Kohlers i figured its probably the rectifier not sending juice back to the battery while its running is why the batteries dead each time after using the mower the person i bought that from didn't even have the valve covers screwed down all the way and had to low of a amperage fuse put in had a safety button wire plugged in that kept blowing the fuse had some other wires taped up i took all those out that didn't need to be their I've been needing to check its rectifier but am working on a bunch of other different mowers
What does it mean when I test my stator, and the voltage reading is all over the place? Goes from 9v, 10v, 12v, 13v, 15v etc. But its all sparatic on the meter?
@@sartingarage8045 set on AC. I tested my voltage right off the stator, not connected to the regulator, and I get a solid 48-49VAC. But once connected to the rectifier, testing the two tabs the stator plugs into, its crazy on my meter. I omed out my circuit breaker, so thats good. Ordered a new ignition switch, one item i have never replaced. This is on my 1975 John Deere 300, 16hp Kohler. The 17 years I have owned it, its never charged like it should. I have replaced the stator twice, rebuilt the engine 2 years ago, I know all the magnets are on the flywheel. If the ignition switch doesn't fix it, going to replace the amp meter, never replaced that either.
I have a Kohler Im workin on, brand new Batt, brand new Voltage reg, Stator putting out 37 v a/c, grounds all good, center terminal gives me 4.3 volts dc engine full tilt. Getting bat voltage at center pin when engine off. dont get it.
When key switch is turned on and off You should hear the solenoid click If Not Unplug the solenoid On the connector side connect your Voltmeter leads Turn Key to on position Make sure there is voltage to this connector If there is voltage and you can't hear a click Replace Solenoid If there is Not Voltage to connector Test Key Switch
@@sartingarage8045 heyyyyyy Appreciate you fella. The wires under switch were wired wrong. Someone's (my dad) Jerry rigging didn't account for enough wire . when seat opens. Wires got pulled out. Oh and my valves were way off was popping and leaking oil from ohv cover. Let's go see if it holds up under load thanks again
If the Voltage Regulator base is mounted to metal, will not need the Jumper wire. Take your meter one lead on base of Voltage Regulator. The other lead and touch to engine block or negative post on battery.
Thanks for posting that video it was very helpful for me and my Kohler engine certainly make a difference a Ground wire to mess up your whole charging system thanks once again thanks ✅✅✅
I have a 27 hp Kohler and I checked the regulator and have 42 volts ac and then I checked the B terminal and I have 0 volts. I made sure that the regulator was grounded and checked the B terminal with one lead on it and the other lead on the battery ground and the motor and don’t have any voltage at all. This is a new regulator.
Disconnect connector to voltage regulator. Turn key to on position Check voltage to center wire in voltage regulator connector. If still No Voltage there. The problem is bad connection or Key Switch. There has to be battery voltage to this wire or voltage regulator will not work. Watch my video on Kawasaki charging System. There are some good tips in that video. Charging system works the same way Just connections are slightly different It will help you
Just like your example here except with the key switch off, my Scag Cheetah [Kohler] is pulling 12.4 volts. When it is running it is producing 14 volts. Should it show 0 volts with the key switch off? Even when I unplug the key switch it still pulls 12.4 volts. So the purple wire is always hot?
If purple wire to regulator has voltage with key switch unplugged. There is a short to that wire somewhere in the wiring. Or someone has rewired it straight to battery voltage. Maybe to Solenoid. Somewhere to constant voltage. Need to trace the purple wire to other end
@@sartingarage8045 Thank you for this. It appears our 2nd mower (Scag Tiger Cat 2) with the same 29efi Kohler also has voltage with the key off. That one only has 119 hours and is 1 year old. I'm wondering if the solenoids are going bad from sitting out in the weather.
If it is designed that way, Im not real sure why it would need to have voltage to regulator all the time with key Off. Your not using the mower when the key switch is off. Why put a battery draw on battery with key switch off while mower not in use doesnt make much since. Although it wouldnt draw much out of battery. I would think after a week or two of non use your gonna have to charge battery.
Well done. Good camera work. Easy to see and easy to hear and understand
your videos helped us diagnose my son's Troy-Bilt. I've been working on engines for 50 years and I was stumped. It is now running well.
My battery went dead today, and your video gave me the fix to ground the unit. Working now!
Thanks for the video. Been charging my battery for 2 years once a month. Checked for voltage back to the switch and nothing. Verified the charging system was working. Checked the purple wire and it was broken off at the second plug. No voltage due to corrosion, so I stripped the wire and checked again. It was hot regardless of the key position (I decided to cut the wire off and insulate it, didn't like a hot lead all the time). I found another purple lead with a female blade connect that was only hot with the key on and cut the purple lead at the plug. Crimped on a male blade and heat shrunk some insulation, and pressed it into the female blade connect, bypassing the second plug altogether. No more dragging out the battery charger and 100' cord every 3-4 weeks to cut the grass.
9:28 you helped me immensely. All I had was a bad ground
Your video just helped me fix my e mark with Kohler engine. Wound up being dirty ground on voltage regulator. Awesome video!
Great video. Also a good idea to test all the relays. My older Craftsman lawn tractor wasn't keeping the battery charged so I followed your procedure. I had voltage at the stator but not the rectifier. Was going to order a new rectifier but figured while I'm at it I might as well check the relays too. I found one bad one and replaced it, tested the rectifier again and got 14 volts. Bad relay was the one with a red wire going into it. I didn't trace all the wiring, just happy the battery is charging again.
Thank you sir for your great charging system videos, I watched both. They helped me track down a charging wire that was hooked up wrong for an 1999 xmark zero turn. I replaced the engine with a new carbureted 25hp Kohler, I didn’t want a new machine and try to stay away from ecm controlled machines. They had the charging wire from the factory/distributor running to the starter solenoid ? So I put an end on the wire and put it in the harness plug to the switch and now charging good! You speak slowly so I can understand and I appreciate you helping us all, thanks again!! Ron Smith
This totally helped me, thank you. My Kohler V-Twin 26hp was weak charging and couldn’t keep up after I added an electric fuel pump. I tested like you demonstrated and found the stator was good. I just head to clean connections like you mentioned, and now it’s back to 14v. Whew. Glad I don’t have to replace the stator.
Great demonstration. I just checked the charging system on my John Deere with the Kohler Command 23 engine. The engine would not turn over fast enough when attempting to start it. I did what you said and found out the stater and the voltage regulator both gave the correct outputs. In conclusion, the battery was not charging to the capacity it needed. So, I replaced the battery. A few years later, I replaced the battery when it turned out the problem was the voltage regulator. I am sure many people blame the battery like I did.
My son's Kohler 25hp wouldn't charge. I checked the stator output and was a whopping 44v. It was in fact a bad ground on the voltage regulator, easy fix. Thanks a LOT for the video.
Thanks for the video. Getting ready to apply this method on my Kohler Command 20. It's 20 years old and just had it serviced. The guy installed a new seal as it was leaking oil so I think he would have noticed any stator issues? Probably some rusty connections.
It does the same thing. It seems like it almost dies when I engage the PTO but it never has died from that. It's weird because I can run it all day and once I shut it down it doesen't want to start until it's cooled way down. At least before the guy worked on it. Now I have to jump it every time I shut it down.
@Corey-dy2cq
He may not have checked the charging system if it was took in for just an Oil leak.
But even if he did check it, Anything can go wrong after everything checks OK.
As far as it almost dies when engaging PTO sound like it maybe running on one Cylinder if it's a twin Cylinder , Or Govenor is not set Correctly is where I would start.
He laid out very easy steps to follow. One of the stater wires slipped out of the plastic connector housing and was not making a good connection with the voltage regulator
Did the test (s) like he showed everything tested good. Got the white wire locked back into the plastic connector housing plugged back onto the regulator. Putting out 14.5 volts!
Thanks for the info probably saved me $100 + service bill at the shop !!
After you've verified the charging system in working properly and it's still not charging the battery, what's the next step to check the system. I have a new battery, new stator and new regulator so that eliminates three problems.
@earlpoole7172
Make sure the base of regulator has good Ground. The regulator will not work if the base has Ground issues. Multimeter on Ohms One lead to base of regulator one lead to ground on battery Negative. If Doesn't show that regulator is grounded. Check the jumper wire on regulator that goes from regulator bolts to one of the shroud bolts.
Can't check the regulator Base Ground from here, You will be checking resistance between the wire and it will falsely show base is grounded.
Kohler is bad for regulator loosing Ground at that jumper wire where it bolts to shroud. The shroud is plastic, but behind the shroud bolt goes into metal.
If the base has a good ground
Need to check wiring from regulator up to key Switch. Then from Key Switch goes to battery Positive side of Starter Solenoid.
Thanks for the reply. I'll do some testing.
This was a great video, I don’t have a connector with 3 wires on my voltage regulator, I have the 2 wires and I did what you said and put them on the outside terminals on the regulator however there isn’t a purple wire on the center terminal of the connector but on the other side of the motor there is a purple wire along with a green wire. Do you think the person I got the motor from cut the wire off on the regulator side or does the purple wire connect somewhere else inside the shroud?
Your videos are so good thank you for posting them!😊
I was hoping you might go one more step. I found the video very good , My stator was putting out over 45, The rectifier was putting out 14-15 yet when I check the battery terminal, it was 12.7 which isn't enough to keep my battery charged. I welcome your thoughts as well as others that might have some insight. I checked the bottom fuse on my Exmark 60 Turf Tracer 23hp Kohler . Many thanks
That wire off voltage regulator goes to key Switch A1 or A2 usually
Test key switch from B terminal to A1 or A2 terminal.
You can disconnect battery and do a continuity test from wire on voltage regulator to key switch connector to find which terminal it is on key switch.
@@sartingarage8045 UPDATE: I could not sleep, the little voice inside my head was talking to me and said, Silly Boy , Check the fuses, Everything was reading perfect except at the battery. I had to physically take a pair of pliers and pull the top fuse from the holder (because it had fused to the plastic) It was fried. Put in another fuse and it was reading over 14 at the battery... Very happy and just wanted to share in the hopes it helps someone Else. WE all can learn from each other. Many Thanks
Great video.. I have a question. If ur stator is working (30-50vac) but ur regulator output (center pin) is under 12vdc with engine running. Would u say the regulator is bad?
@connellfarm315
No
It could be but there has to be battery voltage to that wire or will not charge correctly. Also base of regulator has to be grounded.
Watch my Kawasaki Charging Video will help alot
I know it's Kawasaki But works the same way as Kohler, Just wires are connected different
This is link
ruclips.net/video/zRwkKNGkymU/видео.html
Also this is a Ground test Video
Shows you how to test the Voltage regulator Base Ground.
ruclips.net/video/ogV7e8x0tZY/видео.html
@@sartingarage8045 thank you so much
Great video. One question though - couldn't you start by checking the regulator dc output first. Can't we assume the stator is good if the volts out are good?
Yes you can
If you have charging voltage there and not at the battery. Stator and Regulator are working. The problem then would be wiring or faulty key switch
Very informative.
I have 45vac at the two whites with the connector unpluged from the regulator, but only 9.5vdc at the purple when connected to the regulator.
Both checks with Kohler running wide open.
What's my problem or next check to be made.
Thanks
Check base of regulator to make sure it is grounded.
One lead on base of regulator, other lead on Ground to engine block or battery Negative.
Kohlers have a jumper ground wire from base on regulator to engine Shroud and alot of times they lose connection.
If base of regulator is not grounded remove and clean this wire where it connects.
Also check Purple wire for battery Voltage with Key in ON position.
There has to be battery voltage going to Regulator on purple wire for regulator to work correctly.
@@sartingarage8045 Thanks .... I'll check it tomorrow!
@@sartingarage8045 The regulator was not grounded, so I added a ground wire as per your video. I checked the DC voltage at both the regulator purple and the harness connector at the front of the engine by the spark plug, and I got 3.5vdc at each location with the key switch "on", but not running. Does it make any difference which way the regulator connector plugged into the regulator?
Sounds like you either have a power problem to key Switch or the Key Switch itself is bad.
Here is a key Switch Test Video.
ruclips.net/video/rOqwb0KaHQI/видео.html
After testing key switch make sure you have battery Voltage to the B terminal in Connector that plugs into Key Switch.
@@sartingarage8045 Thanks, heading to that video right now.
thx for your video. very helpful and timely. my voltage regulator just crapped the bed...
Excellent video troubleshooting a Kohler.
My issue was exactly as you described.
The yellow right terminal to the block ground, the screw face and inside was corroded with rust.
Also, the left side yellow terminal was sparking intermittently . Looks like a poor engineer design, the left terminal going the the rectifier is threaded through and secured by the plastic shroud only, and stripped out if you tighten it. Kohler needs a more robust mount than a screw through plastic fastening method.
Thanks again, you earned a new subscriber here.
This solved my charging problem. I had accidentally left the grounding strap off whilst replacing the two ignition modules. Unfortunately, I found this video after I had ordered a new regulator-rectifier module and waited for it to come in.
Good video, helped fix my scag that wasn’t charging. Sure enough it was a bad ground at the reg.
You did a great job explaining this. A neighbor gave me a John Deere L130 and it is a Kohler CV23S.
It will not stay charge.
I am definitely going to try this.
ruclips.net/video/zRwkKNGkymU/видео.html
Watch this Video also. Although it is a Kawasaki Engine. Kohler works the same way. Alot of good info in this video
Will you damage the diodes in the regulator if you hook up a battery charger to the battery without removing the battery leads?
I usually remove battery to charge it just to prevent other issues. But if everything is working correctly and key Switch is off.
Even though battery is connected in Equipment, It is not connected to anything that is drawing current from battery.
Would be hard to short out components.
There is no better explanation that what you have done. THANKS
I have another Video that will help you that is more comprehensive. The only difference is this Video is on a Kawasaki Engine. The charging works the same way. The only difference is the output on the kohler Voltage Regulator is the center Pin. On the Kawasaki it's Pin to Right. Left 2 are AC.
ruclips.net/video/zRwkKNGkymU/видео.html
If it is the voltage regulator how much do those run usually? Hopefully not too much.
@Corey-dy2cq
Links to OEM or Aftermarket in Description
@@sartingarage8045 Ok thank you.
Hi, thanks for your video... I'm getting 30V AC from stator but nothing from regulator...with engine off, using a multimetter i probed the center pin and neg post on battery and had no DC voltage... I was told there should be 12V when doing that. So do I have an open circuit on the positive side?.. what is my next step? Thank you.
There should be voltage to that center Pin with key Switch in ON position. If there is NO Voltage with key on, Then yes you have a open short, bad key Switch.
I have another Video that is on a Kawasaki engine and is more comprehensive.
The only difference is your output is in the center on voltage regulator. Kawasaki Output pin is on one side.
But watch this Video and it will help you
Link below
ruclips.net/video/zRwkKNGkymU/видео.html
Thanks so much.... I was missing that the key needed to be on.
Thanks for the link.
I turned key on and still had no voltage so I followed the wire to the plug and the wire had broken off the plug connector! So I reconnected the wire. I have 12V now and will be able to test regulator soon, but hat was more than likely the problem and my battery no charge issue should be fixed. Really appreciate your generous help!
Thanks very helpful very helpful and imagine a little ground wire to mess up your whole charging system thanks again
Thank you for this video! I stopped at 3:36, checked the ground wire and Viola! fixed. I've been dealing with this glitch for over a year. Thank you so much!
Great videos and thank you for them! I have a question about my John Deere Sabre 1948hv. When I turn the tractor on my battery light has been coming on. What are the scenarios that make that light come on?
Multiple things can cause this light to come on.
Battery Ground to frame
Voltage Regulator Ground connection
Key Switch Defective which would depend on how the battery light is wired up
Weak Stator
There's a few to check
Thank you so much for the info and fast reply!
You just saved me from buying a stator that wasn’t needed! Thank you for saving me time and money. It turns out that my connection to the regulator was loose. Thanks again!
I have a 1985 Ropper lawn tractor with a Briggs & Stratton twin opposed 14 watch. I have an over charging problem but someone told me they’re are no regulators on that machine. Is there any way you can verify and let me know thank you.
Im pretty sure There is Not a Voltage Regulator on that machine. It's all built into Stator under Flywheel. If it's over charging I'd say the stator is probably shorted out.
I would replace it
Thank you
Hi how are you Startin..
I have tried everything you have showed..
Everything is good.
Stator 43.2
Battery charge 14.5
My problem is..
Why when I turn my key on the battery light stays on?
Even when the mower is running at full throttle.
Please help me resolve this issue..
Great videos.. Thank you!
Sounds like your charging System is working fine. Just your dash charging light is saying it's not.
Need to run the wires down that go to that light. Seems you have bad connection going to the charging light.
Does the purple charging wire need to go to ing switch or can it go to the battery? Thank you Jesse.
@user-en6by2kd2k
It has to go to switch
If you connect straight to battery will have constant draw on battery.
When Switch is in OFF position
Breaks connection from that wire to battery
@@sartingarage8045 thank you very much. Then one more question. Can I send pictures at this number?
So from the switch I need key off nothing (not ground and not🎉 hot) key on hot?
Thank you again Jesse.
Yes
No connection
My Cub Cadet just up and died this evening while it was in low-idle. I thought it ran out of gas but it ran out of lightning.
I just put a new bat. In last summer. It was flat! Apparently I have a charging system problem. Hope it's just a regulator. Thanks for the video
An update... found a blown 20amp fuse. (Engine was idling with blades disengaged.) May have been a low voltage situ. (High amp) or possibly a faulty regular or stator.
I have a kolher 18 craftsman riding mower with a electric powered hydraulic front bucket loader that’s not charging I hope mines simple as a bad ground going to mess with it today thank you didn’t know witch wires went to the stator
@Sartin Garage I've got Kawa fh680v with 31 acv coming out of the stator, 14.6 dcv coming out of the regulator, and battery charging voltage showing 14.6 at full throttle. The excessive voltage isn't blowing fuses but is boiling a new battery in 3-4 days. Not sure why this is happening? Please help. Thanks!
14.6 volts is Normal Charging Voltage
When you say boiling a battery are you meaning battery boils over or are you just meaning battery goes dead.
If the battery goes dead over a few days
Sounds like you have a draw on battery while mower is not in use.
I have a video on testing for this
Link below
ruclips.net/video/7f2dR0rT1fw/видео.html
I have a 26.5hp Kohler horizontal engine. It quit charging. Cleaned up all connectors and put a new regulator on. I'm getting 43vac to the regulator but only 1vdc coming out. Any ideas. New battery. Even ran a separate jumper ground from battery to regulator housing and no change. Thank you
Most Regulators have to have battery voltage to the output that your only getting 1vdc out of.
This voltage comes from key Switch
B terminal on key switch comes from Starter Solenoid, small wire with fuse in it
Connects to A1 or A2 terminal thru key switch
A1 or A2 go to Voltage Regulator
Watch this video it is a Kawasaki
But everything works the same
Just wires on Regulator are on different
There are some good tips and tricks in this video
ruclips.net/video/zRwkKNGkymU/видео.html
I also have key switch test video link below
ruclips.net/video/fAWMFy9L9iI/видео.html
YOU JUST SAVED ME HOURS, DUDE....!!!!
I have a nice running k181 a on a go cart I’m finishing up. Quick question with a generic eBay rectifier does it matter witch way I connect the two white engine wires? As long as the middle post off the rectifier goes to the correct post on the key switch right? Also an amp meter can be spliced directly into the wire that powers the key switch without problem?
Pretty sure it doesn't matter
Thank you for the kohler video it helped me a lot. Turns out my kohler is putting out 14.5 volts but its not getting to the battery can i just run that purple wire straight to the battery? Instead of messing with the switch?
No you can not
It will constantly drain your battery.
Most of the time the key switch is the problem. But need to check connections from that wire to key switch
From the key switch it goes to starter solenoid
If you follow the battery positive cable down to Solenoid , there will be a small wire attached to that same post on the solenoid.
That goes to the key switch
Check all those connections and test key switch
I have a video on testing key switch
So if you start from voltage regulator DC output wire
That goes to a connector if you follow the wire.
Then it goes to key switch terminal A1
Inside key switch it connects A1 to B terminal.
B terminal wire comes from the Battery post side of sokenoid
The wire I was telling you about in previous reply
Don't know if you will see this or not but when I check the AC voltage I get 43 but when I do the DC voltage it will only read .19. Does that mean the voltage regulator is bad? Or what
It could mean voltage regulator is bad.
But you need to do a few more tests.
Watch this Video Link Below.
It is on a Kawasaki engine
But the charging system works the same.
Only difference on the Kawasaki the DC pin on voltage regulator is the Right Pin and 2 on left are AC. To where your Kohler Center Pin is DC and two outside ones are AC.
But this Video will show you other tests
Testing regulator base ground
Check for Battery Voltage on DC side with key Switch ON and shows you how to do it.
Fast Version
ruclips.net/video/eZndhOJLp64/видео.html
Slow Version
ruclips.net/video/zRwkKNGkymU/видео.html
@@sartingarage8045 thanks for the advice and it was a bad voltage regulator.
THANK YOU FOR YOUR HELP
Hi
If stator out but 30.2ac V
At full throttle
Regulator 1DCV
Kindly your advice
Turn Key to on position
Check Voltage at Regulator where you are getting 1 volt
You should have battery Voltage at this wire with just Key On Position.
Engine Not Started
If there is NO battery voltage at this connection
Your problem is wiring to and from key Switch or a faulty key switch.
I have a Key Switch Test Video
I'm only getting 15 volts AC out of the two outside wires. Would it make anything at all if one of the magnets came off the fly wheel? Maybe the stator is bad? It is sending 12.7 volts dc back to the battery out of the middle wire I tested.
Your stator is bad or you have lost some magnets inside flywheel.
@@sartingarage8045 Ok thank you!
great vid
ps thanks for detailing the settings on the multi meter
Great video. You were straight to the point and explained the process so the average guy like me who isn’t a Master Tech could follow along. My Kohler C18 regular has a hole melted in in behind one of the stator wires. Thanks for the video!
Following your process, I tested my stator and got 41 volts. However, when I tested my center prong on the rectifier, I'm only getting 12. I thought it was bad and decided to order/install a brand new one. However, I'm still only getting 12. Any thoughts/ideas on why I may not be getting the required 13 - 15 volts? Thanks!!!
Check ground to base of rectifier. Usually on a kohler the rectifier has a small wire going from rectifier mounting bolt to a shroud bolt.
Kohler is bad to lose the ground at the shroud bolt.
There is a trick to this test.
If you put your meter leads one on rectifier base and one on the bolt on shroud
You will show ground
But you are actually getting a reading thru the wire.
Put one lead on battery negative and the other lead on base of rectifier to test.
@@sartingarage8045 I’ll try that today… Thanks!!
So I know I need a new battery for my Scag as I've had to put the battery charger on every time I start the mower.
Today I started mowing and probably mowed 30 minutes and had to stop and move our trampoline, pushed in electric PTO, set brake and got off mower to
moved trampoline. Got back on mower released brake and engaged PTO and the engine started missing bad, disengaged PTO and missing went away.
Idled engine down engaged PTO and the missing was gone, gave her full power and and was able to mow another minutes and she died right there in the yard.
I would like to know your thoughts on this matter. Tomorrow I will be replacing the battery for sure to start with.
There is two things I can think of most likely wrong. 1st you do need to check the charging system, 2nd thing is if it is a twin cylinder engine, sounds like you may be running on one cylinder. The engine will still run great, but will be low on power.
So when you are engaging the Pto.
Engine doesnt have enough power to turn the blades as far as spinning the blades.
But at the same time if battery is really low
This will also cause engine to stall qhen blades are engaged. There is not enough Power in battery to keep PTO clutch engaged
@@sartingarage8045 Replaced the battery today and it fired right up. I was able to finish mowing without any problems. You were right about the battery not having enough power to keep PTO engaged. I will follow your video on How to Test Kohler Charging System for a more thorough diagnoses and make sure there isn't another underling issue. I can't thank you enough as you saved me a lot of money and more importantly TIME.
Thank you. Great walk through. Helped me save a lot of time and money!
My Kohler is putting out about 45vac but the regulator is barely 12.6vdc. If I check just the center prong in the plug, it reads battery voltage. I bent the center pin up so it wouldn’t be in the plug and it read 0.7vdc. I think the regulator is bad.
@ksmith0110
Check Center Pin on Regulator for Battery Voltage with key ON,
Check base of Regulator to make sure it is grounded. Meter on Ohms One lead on base of Regulator other lead to Engine block or battery Ground. Should be infinite.
If both these tests are Good
Replace Regulator
Links for Regulator in Description
Hello!! My mower only runs as long as I have my jumper cables connected from my car, so when I check the output from the mowers regulator am I just reading my cars regulator and not the lawn mower? As soon as I disconnect the jumper cables the mower dies.. all the connections are clean and the voltage regulator ground is good. Thanks!!
Let me get this right
Your Battery is Dead and mower wont turn over. So your connecting jumper cables from your car to the mowers battery and then mower will start, but when you disconnect cables from car. Mower engine shuts off immediately.
If this is the case First thing you need to do is charge the battery that is in the mower, If it will charge, If not buy a new battery. After you get a good fully charged battery in mower. Start the mower and check charging system to battery.
If your car is running
Yes you will show charging voltages from your cars charging system around 14 volts DC
I have a kohler engine and it is putting out 19.7 V is that still fine
If that is DC to the battery Its Not OK
If it's AC out of stator I would say that's a bit low on voltage.
My Kohler 23hp is only getting around 20-23 volts ac from the stator even though just replaced it with a new unit. Any idea what else the issue could be?
@robertholt8522
I would check magnets on flywheel.
The magnets need to be evenly spaced and each magnet is push pull push pull
Thanks that was a big help.👍
i have a courage 19, stater and dc volts are correct. should the engine once running, continue running with battery disconnected? if not what would be suspect?
I guess I'm not understanding what your saying. But why do you want to run your engine with battery disconnected.
Hi I have a Koehler 7000 that keeps popping the fuse as soon as I turn on the key. I have traced it down to the charging system. I have removed the rectifier thinking it was the problem, installed a new one and I get the same results, popes fuse. I also found out that I can turn on the mower and cut grass without the rectifier. I turned i5 on and tested the stator and it is giving me 34 or so AC. I am thinking it is the blue wire between the two white ones. What long term harm will I have if I run it without a rectifier and just place a charge every time I finish mowing.
There are many things that can cause that. Any wiring short, maybe defective key switch.
Thanks, that was a great help . When checking the purple wire part of the metal tab that makes a connection to the voltage regulator has fallen off. This may be the problem that has plagued me for months . Is that whole wire assembly to the voltage regulator easily replaced ? And if it's not too personal , which part of the U.S is your accent from. Cheers from Australia.
The mower your working on in another video looks like my Husqvarna Z246. I have been having trouble with the safety switches . Could you do a video on testing all the switches ? Thank you, Wayne.
The mower I think your talking about is a Husqvarna MZ5424. Its a 24 hp Kawasaki with a 54" Deck
Thank you sir. Was able to fix mine. Went through 2 batteries in a year. Now it’s charging properly. Mine must have been built at quitting time on Friday. Didn’t have a ground jumper at all.
Everything you showed me to check shows as you say it should but charge isn't getting to the battery.
@glenbush3315
I would test Key Switch
Link Below for testing Key Switch
The purple wire at Regulator goes to key Switch. Then Key Switch Connects that wire inside Switch to the B terminal on Switch.
Which is Battery. The B terminal wire on Switch goes to Starter Solenoid on Battery post side of solenoid.
So if you follow your Battery Positive Cable to Solenoid. There will be a Small usually Red wire connected to same post on Solenoid.
This is the B wire from key Switch
Key Switch Test Video Link Below
ruclips.net/video/rOqwb0KaHQI/видео.html
Great video. Step by step,,
Boom!!!! Thank you sir.
Is a 25 403 20 voltage regulator interchangeable with a 25 403 21? The original is a 25 403 20 on my 2012 cub cadet 25Hp Kohler Courage. I have a 25 403 21 available to use, but don't want to if it might cause damage to the charging system. Thanks!
Same regulator
25 403 39 Replaces both
You can use either
@@sartingarage8045 Thanks for your prompt reply. Your videos are great helping us weekend mechanics narrow down simple problems where we'd otherwise not even know where to start. Thanks again!
So, I just checked the stator, throttle wide open and it's only reading 1.2 to 1.3. The grounding bolts look good, no rust. I have yet to check the voltage output, because I think it's a moot point at this time. What would you suggest my next step would be?
1.2 volts AC voltage is Not enough
Pull Flywheel and check magnets. If Magnets seem to be ok and in place
Replace Stator
Note: If magnets are loose or have fallen out
There is a certain way they go back in
Get back with me if they have fallen out
Upon further investigation, my dumbbutt didn't have my leads pushed in all the way on the meter. I am getting proper amount of ac voltage from the stator, and proper amount of dc voltage out of the regulator. My issue is that after running my mower until it's warmed up or hot, it won't restart if I have tto shut it off for a minute or two. I have to wait till it's cooled off for 45 minutes to an hour.
There are several things this can be.
But from what your telling me it sounds as if
Carb Needle Not seating properly causing fuel overload after engine shut off,
Don't think this is Ignition Coil problem due to engine would just shut off on its own.
Possible Key Switch Short intermittent
Or Maybe Valves need adjusted
When engine is cool the valves will have less clearance.
I did everything you say on one of your videos about charging problems I even change the stator, en I'm Still getting 14v ac switch is working fine what else can be?? 60" ex mark z
14 vac is not enough
What did the magnets look like inside flywheel. If there is a magnet missing or magnet that has came loose and has moved Stator will not output correctly.
Magnets should be equally spaced apart and the magets are push pull push pull
Meaning like first magnent is pull which would be like a regular magnet. The second magnet will push away
Does the mower have electric Pto to engage blades or a lever to engage blades
@@sartingarage8045 yes then machine have electric switch to engage the Blades I never change that part get.
On the magnets are in place they are all looking nice and clean, when I first see your video I did everything you show in your video and I was getting 16 volts ac and maybe 2v DC now with the new stator I am getting only 14.5 volts ac🤣🤣
Make sure when you check Stator Voltage you have the throttle at full throttle.
Stator will show lower voltage at lower engine RPM's.
May need to check RPM's with a Tachometer. I dont know what engine you have, but RPM's should be around 3400.
Need to check spec on your engine for specific rpm.
@@sartingarage8045 one or two magnets were broken in one corner not very much you think this is the problem??
It is very possible
Ive seen two magnets missing and stator would not output correctly
My Kohler 25 hp PS-SV730-3022 Husqvarna riding mower is giving me grief. I went to start it, the battery was completely dead, and it my battery charger advises that there isn't a battery hooking up to it when I tried to charge the battery. I suspect that the voltage rectifier/regulator has failed and allows AC current into the battery. Two brand new batteries, no idea. Would this be a possible solution? The tractor will not turn over, even with a booster battery. Any ideas?
That is possible. Also spark voltage from ignition Coil can go thru ground causing this.
Usually will give a high voltage reading especially at the pto clutch connector. Running up to 90 volts. Will damage the clutch eventually. Once you get a good charged battery in the mower. You need to check for this voltage at the clutch.
If it is High at the clutch
If I remember correctly will be a negative Voltage because power is going thru Ground.
Take shroud off of engine and disconnect single wire to ignition coil ( usually Black wire) Put shroud back on for safety from flywheel. Start the engine and see if High voltage is gone at pto clutch. If voltage is Now Normal, Replace ignition Coil
To add to my previous comment, the first A/C test test was only showing 26 volts. Is that a problem ? as the second test was showing 14.5 volts on a fully charged battery.
As long as your getting the correct 14.5 DC volt output , 26 AC volts from stator ahould be OK
Hello, my vintage tractor from the 1970s has a 10 HP iron block Kohler engine that stopped charging the battery. I replaced both the stator and voltage regulator and it still doesn't charge even though the new regulator is properly grounded to the frame. Could it be that the flywheel magnets are too weak to produce voltage? The ohm meter reading shows fluctuwating numbers on the readout from the regulator with the engine running at high speed. Thanks
@TheWaterbug101
That is a possibility.
It's been awhile since I've had my hands on one like you have
But if one magnet is missing or has came loose inside the flywheel. You will get erratic readings on the meter.
I think I would pull that Flywheel and atleast check the magnets.
Tip: Those Magnets are Push Pull Push pull all the way around the Flywheel.
So if you have a magnet and put it to the first magnet, It will either draw magnet to it or you will feel it try to push magnet away.
So if the first one is pull
Next one will be Push Next one will be pull
All the way around
Is it possible to put the connecter that plugs into the voltage regulator on backwards? Mine was just unplugged and it’s hard to tell which way it was plugged in originally. And it well plug in ether way
For most kohler voltage regulators it doesn't matter. But to put it on like it was from factory. There should be a small tab on one side of connector. The other side of connector just flat. Flat side towards the engine
good Job > Thanks ! The Purple Wire can be used to return Charge back to the battery ? Correct ??
Yes But need to be ran to key switch otherwise will drain battery down when not in use
Usually A1 or A2 on key switch
Use a multimeter in ohms to test
Turn key to on position
Test B to A1 should have continuity
If not
Test B to A2
Purple wire to which ever has continuity with key on
@@sartingarage8045 Thanks Again !!
@@sartingarage8045 Problem is , I removed the key switch and used a Push Button Starter ? I have the kill switch on a Toggel switch . Could I put The Purple Wire on a toggle switch also ???
This 25 HP Kohler is being repurposed for a 40 ton Log Splitter > Just FYI ..
Yes just have to remember to turn it off
Probably be easier and cheaper to just buy a key switch and wire all to key switch
I'm getting 30.6 from sator and 12.4 from voltage regulator. Does that mean voltage regulator is weak or bad? Mower shows low voltage 11.7 when mowing .
Make sure base of regulator has a good ground. In this video it shows you how to check this. I also have another video on checking ground connections.
If ground to regulator is good
Replace voltage regulator
I’m getting 15.62 volts at the battery and voltage regulator when the engine is off. Brand new battery. Engine runs, but the key won’t start it. I can hear it click in the on position but the start position does nothing. I have to put a jumper in the starter and it fires right up. Turning the key off shuts it off.
When running, the voltage at the battery and at the regulator is 17.6-17.9. I replaced the voltage regulator and get the same exact readings.
I tested the stator from a Koehler video and it showed to be good.
Is the high voltage (17.6+ volts) when running a sign of something else or are my switches just fried?
John Deere stx38 yellow deck, about 25 years old. Thanks.
Test your keyswitch
Multimeter on Ohms
Test terminal B and S with key in start position.
I get nothing on the meter doing that. Gonna replace the switch and see if that does it. Thanks Sartin!
@@sartingarage8045 this ended up being the starter relay. Starts right up and runs like a top.
Nice walk through on the Kohnler charging system. I have a similar setup, but with a Tecumseh twin 25 hp w/elec. PTO that uses a 2 terminal voltage regulator instead of the 3 terminal your Kohler has. I've been nursing along a low/no charge battery for the summer, keeping a 3A charger/maintainer on it between mows, just getting around to taking a look today. Figured I'd share. I initially suspected the alternator winding (stator), but confirmed it's putting out just under 30v AC in to the regulator. When checking the B+ side of the regulator, it's only showing batt voltage at WOT.
Two questions; 1) is there a bench test I can do/measure the voltage regulator before condemning it bad, even thought I'm pretty confident it's the root cause? It shows open on continuity and about 15 ohms resistance, but the longer I wait,t the lower the resistance creeps. I thought it should have a reading much higher, but not really certain? 2) the voltage regulator I need (1A183-164) is NLA on all the sites I've checked so far, any ideas where to find an old part that's been discontinued like this? Don't know if I want to trust a used one. Thanks!
You have good AC
You have battery voltage to regulator
But no output from regulator higher than battery voltage.
Make sure base of regulator has a good ground. Base has to be grounded or will not charge.
If you have good ground to base
Replace regulator
Let me see if I can locate voltage regulator
I'm pretty sure this part # will work.
Tecumseh Part # 611184
16 amp 2 pin regulator
@@sartingarage8045 Yep, that's the one I ordered the other day. I found it by looking in an old Tecumseh OEM Parts Guide, using the TVT691 engine. It's virtually the same as my VTX691.
I also wanted to let you know that I confirmed continuity between the rectifier stack up to my engine and through the mounting hardware. I'll be glad to not have to keep hooking up that charger every time. Thanks again for your feedback!
I'm getting a reading of 22v ac off the two white wires from the stator. What is the minimum for a mower with electric clutch for blade engagement?
22 volts is definitely Low.
I would pull the flywheel and check internal Flywheel Magnets. They should be evenly spaced apart and if you have magnets that have fell out. You can epoxy them back, but make sure you install magnets in push pull sequence. Meaning if you take a magnet and put it to each magnet on the flywheel. One should push magnet away next magnet on flywheel will draw magnet to it. Needs to do this all the way around flywheel. If flywheel looks ok.
Make sure your engine is grounded good to negative on battery.
If all checks out ok
Replace Stator.
@@sartingarage8045 I put the meter leads into the plug like you did in the video, and got 32 volts..eariler I was trying to hold them when I got 22 volts. Your videos helped a lot, my regulator was not grounded. I had put two new coils on this Kohler, when i put it back together, i must have put it back together wrong. How is the regulator grounded from the factory?
Usually Voltage Regulators have a Jumper Wire going from Voltage Regulator mount bolt to the Top Shroud Bolt right next to regulator.
@@sartingarage8045 I found the problem, it has a metal plate that bolted behind the regulator, then bolted to a lower shroud cover. Bolted that on and getting 13.43 volts , before i just had 12.53 volts. Thanks for posting the videos.
Thanks for this video! I have a Scott's by JD, 2348 Kohler 23hp engine very similar to your video. Any idea why the battery would not charge (batter light comes on) when the mower (PTO) is engaged?
Does it charge when PTO is disengaged
And Not charge when PTO is engaged.
If so your gonna have to chase the charging wiring to find where the connection is lost.
If its not charging only while engaged
Most likely PTO switch is losing the connection for charging
Sartin Garage it was not charging until I followed your trouble shooting video. Now it charges only when PTO is NOT engaged. The battery light comes on when PTO is engaged. Thanks
Great video, easy to understand. Thanks
Thank you. Helped me diagnose and fix the charging problem on my kolher 20hp rider. 👍👍👍
My zmaster will not run if I disconnect the battery. I checked the charging system and I am getting 14volts. Suggestions?
I guess I'm not understanding exactly what your saying. If it's running and your Charging.
What's the issue of needing to disconnect battery while it's running ?
I need a little bit of help. I've engine swapped mowers before, but just the other day my dad blew the briggs engine in his AYP craftsman, then got a 16.5hp kohler engine that says craftsman on it but was on a MTD when we got it. The regulator was completely bypassed. I got to looking at the stator wires, yellow and black, and noticed that there was a factory installed diode or what I assume was a diode on the black wire that had blown and melted. So my question is, do these kohlers need both a diode and rectifier on the charging wire, or are we dealing with mixed up parts? Can I wire it up using the diode from the briggs or do I need to use the regulator that wasnt hooked up? This mower has manual deck engagement and AC headlights.
Let me get this right
The Briggs Engine has No external voltage regulator/Rectifier.
But the Kohler engine has a voltage regulator.
If this is the case
You will use the center pin on voltage regulator to go to the mower factory connector which should only be 2 wire connector.
You will have to figure out which wire in the two pin connector to connect center wire of voltage regulator to.
One of the wires in the two pin connector is ground. Dont want to connect it to ground.
Best to pull key switch and usually terminal A1 on key switch
Use a ohm meter and find the wire in the two pin connector that connects to A1 on key switch.
This will be the wire that you will connect center pin from voltage regulator to.
May have to put other wire in the 2 pin connector to ground for it to charge
@@sartingarage8045 Yes the original briggs only had a diode on the charging wire, no rectifier. The kohler appears to have had a diode that blew and melted the wire, as well as the 3 pin rectifier, which wasn't even hooked up. Someone had messed with the wiring before. I'm just wondering if the kohler needs both the diode that blew as well as the rectifier, or if some kohlers had only a diode and this fan shroud with the rectifier came off another engine.
The Kohlers Engines came with both.
The difference would be if mower has electric Pto Clutch or Electric Pto engagement. Those will have a better charging system on them which will have a rectifier/voltage regulator.
Mowers with a lever to engage blades
Most would not have a voltage regulator and charging system is less output.
Most mowers now have electric pto
Thank you for your video this is my beginning stages of trying to fix my Kohler CV 22 hp engine. When I tested the two white wires my engine would not stay running to complete the test so I just held the key on and it looks like on my meter I got around 45 to 50 V. Would you happen to know why the engine would not stay running with the connector disconnected? Then I proceeded to check the sea vault on the purple center wire on the connector to ground and did not get any voltage there at all so would that mean it is the stater I am to replace which is under the shroud?
You do not have to disconnect.
Leave it connected
Touch your probes to terminals
Sartin Garage OK Sartin I just tested it with the refractor attached and on my DC voltage on the center terminal I did get the 12 V however when I tested the AC two white terminals I only got 22.8 V so would that mean my stater is bad
I would think 22.8 volts would be enough
Its a bit low, but I think its ok
Engine off but Key on
Should be battery voltage to purple center wire.
If the voltage is Ok on purple wire
Make sure base of voltage regulator is grounded. Should be a small wire connected to the voltage regulator going to shroud that grounds regulator.
One lead on voltage regulator base
Other lead to engine block or Negative ground. Dont use the bolt to ground to that is connected from the voltage regulator to engine shroud. As this will give you a false reading of ground due to its actually checking the wire..
If all ground is good and have battery voltage to purple wire
Replace Voltage Regulator
What spade on switch dose the purple wire go to can't get a kholer cammand to charge
@Matthewcook572
The purple wire goes to the center Terminal
Awesome video
Thanks for the info
Checked out my kohler charge system. Stator producing 43
a/c volts. Regulator 0 d/c Replaced regulator. Producing 9 volts d/c now at full throttle grounds seem to good. Ideas?
Battery voltage is 12.8
Make sure base of regulator is grounded.
If base is not grounded , regulator will not output. Also with key on make sure you have battery voltage to DC output on voltage regulator.
Watch the video I have on Kawasaki charging system. Although a different engine, charging is the same. There are some helpful tips in this video.
If all tests show OK replace regulator
@@sartingarage8045 yes I did watch that video, it was very helpful. I do have a good ground as well dc voltage with key on at regulator is same as the battery tests. Can I run a wire direct from regulator output to battery see if that charges?
@@sartingarage8045 and it was a new regulator yesterday. Still had the problem
Temporarily Yes
But you can't leave it hooked to battery that way. Will drain battery as there is no switch to turn it off
On you 43 on stator that is AC right
I know theres a problem with mine cause i took each drained battery off my zero turn mower and used them on my other mowers and charged it a little then started it up and let it run on my Briggs engines and their staying charged on those. but gets drained on the Kohlers i figured its probably the rectifier not sending juice back to the battery while its running is why the batteries dead each time after using the mower the person i bought that from didn't even have the valve covers screwed down all the way and had to low of a amperage fuse put in had a safety button wire plugged in that kept blowing the fuse had some other wires taped up i took all those out that didn't need to be their I've been needing to check its rectifier but am working on a bunch of other different mowers
What does it mean when I test my stator, and the voltage reading is all over the place? Goes from 9v, 10v, 12v, 13v, 15v etc. But its all sparatic on the meter?
Is your meter set to AC Voltage
If it is and voltage is that low
Probably need new stator and or check magnets under flywheel.
@@sartingarage8045 set on AC. I tested my voltage right off the stator, not connected to the regulator, and I get a solid 48-49VAC. But once connected to the rectifier, testing the two tabs the stator plugs into, its crazy on my meter.
I omed out my circuit breaker, so thats good. Ordered a new ignition switch, one item i have never replaced.
This is on my 1975 John Deere 300, 16hp Kohler. The 17 years I have owned it, its never charged like it should. I have replaced the stator twice, rebuilt the engine 2 years ago, I know all the magnets are on the flywheel.
If the ignition switch doesn't fix it, going to replace the amp meter, never replaced that either.
I have a Kohler Im workin on, brand new Batt, brand new Voltage reg, Stator putting out 37 v a/c, grounds all good, center terminal gives me 4.3 volts dc engine full tilt. Getting bat voltage at center pin when engine off. dont get it.
Needs to battery voltage at center pin on voltage regulator with key ON engine OFF
Test your key Switch
I have a video Easy Key Switch Test
Same problem I'm only getting 12.4
Alguna herramienta que recomiende para la recharge de bateria. Muy buen video e informativo manita arriva.
Need a battery charger. Maximum of 10 amperage. Smaller is better for battery life
So if you're troubleshooting your fuel solinoid cause you cant get fuel to engine how would you check then
When key switch is turned on and off
You should hear the solenoid click
If Not
Unplug the solenoid
On the connector side connect your Voltmeter leads
Turn Key to on position
Make sure there is voltage to this connector
If there is voltage and you can't hear a click
Replace Solenoid
If there is Not Voltage to connector
Test Key Switch
@@sartingarage8045 heyyyyyy Appreciate you fella. The wires under switch were wired wrong. Someone's (my dad) Jerry rigging didn't account for enough wire . when seat opens. Wires got pulled out. Oh and my valves were way off was popping and leaking oil from ohv cover. Let's go see if it holds up under load thanks again
ive got a 7000 series found regulator but it doesn't have a ground wire?
If the Voltage Regulator base is mounted to metal, will not need the Jumper wire.
Take your meter one lead on base of Voltage Regulator. The other lead and touch to engine block or negative post on battery.
thank you for your help the video was very good hopefully ill get my L. mower going
Thanks for posting that video it was very helpful for me and my Kohler engine certainly make a difference a Ground wire to mess up your whole charging system thanks once again thanks ✅✅✅
very good video so informative and easy to understand --good job
I have a 27 hp Kohler and I checked the regulator and have 42 volts ac and then I checked the B terminal and I have 0 volts. I made sure that the regulator was grounded and checked the B terminal with one lead on it and the other lead on the battery ground and the motor and don’t have any voltage at all. This is a new regulator.
Disconnect connector to voltage regulator.
Turn key to on position
Check voltage to center wire in voltage regulator connector.
If still No Voltage there.
The problem is bad connection or Key Switch.
There has to be battery voltage to this wire or voltage regulator will not work.
Watch my video on Kawasaki charging System. There are some good tips in that video.
Charging system works the same way
Just connections are slightly different
It will help you
Just like your example here except with the key switch off, my Scag Cheetah [Kohler] is pulling 12.4 volts. When it is running it is producing 14 volts. Should it show 0 volts with the key switch off? Even when I unplug the key switch it still pulls 12.4 volts. So the purple wire is always hot?
Purple wire to regulator should be Zero Volts with key Switch off.
If not will be constant drain on battery while mower not in use.
If purple wire to regulator has voltage with key switch unplugged. There is a short to that wire somewhere in the wiring. Or someone has rewired it straight to battery voltage. Maybe to Solenoid. Somewhere to constant voltage. Need to trace the purple wire to other end
@@sartingarage8045 Thank you for this. It appears our 2nd mower (Scag Tiger Cat 2) with the same 29efi Kohler also has voltage with the key off. That one only has 119 hours and is 1 year old. I'm wondering if the solenoids are going bad from sitting out in the weather.
These mowers sit on our landscape trailers when not in use exposed to the elements.
If it is designed that way, Im not real sure why it would need to have voltage to regulator all the time with key Off.
Your not using the mower when the key switch is off. Why put a battery draw on battery with key switch off while mower not in use doesnt make much since.
Although it wouldnt draw much out of battery. I would think after a week or two of non use your gonna have to charge battery.
Thanks for sharing.
Very helpful 👌 thank you
Thank you
Thank you very much. This was very helpful.
Very good explanation