Hope you found this video helpful! As always if you have any questions about your vintage cast iron small engine or vintage garden tractor you can always reach out to me directly by email, phone, or our website. Ask for Norman! I help every single person who contacts us whether they are a customer or not. Our mission is to Save the Tractors! Like, Subscribe and Tell your Friends!
Just found your video. I own a 1978 John Deere 316 with this same Kohler engine. It still runs very well but after watching your video it will be receiving more attention. I just bought this tractor last summer from a dealer. It sat there for sale for along time, until I came along. I have always liked this engine...... thank you!
Hi.I brought a tractor and the engine is a kohler and it looks just like that in the video minus a few bits..I cant find where to check the oil and where to refill it.. Any ideas where to find this.. Thanks
I just purchased a 1967 Wheel Horse 1277. Kohler K-341...I believe. Your videos are awesome. I'm not a mechanic. I work with wood. I think I can follow along.
For sure, I bought a 212 a few months back. Noticed not near as much air flowing through as on my 210 when standing on the right side. Pulled some sheet metal and it was full of mouse nest.
While you had the carb off I wish you had spent a minute on the fuel pump. They do get dirty and need attention. Doing a compression check would tell me if it needs help. Inspecting the head gasket too would let me know if something was amiss. I'm all for replacing the carb if it was bad. Good informative video , keep them coming.
Take it apart. If the diaphragm us in good condition make sure the little valves are seated good sometimes they come out. Put it together. Good to go as long as the stream is steady your good
Totally opposite my philosophy especially as I've gotten older. If it ain't broken, etc. If it's running well, I figure don't knock success. I just do straight maintenance as though I've owned it since new.
Hi I have a 314 John Deere, with a 14 horse single cylinder: Kohler engine. It will crank I have spark points in the blood I have good compression have you but will not start. When you are off the key from the start position it will fire backfire have any suggestions. Thanks don
While I agree with 90% of this video, I wouldn’t replace the carburetor if you’re capable of rebuilding one. The original Carter/Kohler carbs are excellent. I rebuild every carb on my K series engines and I’ve only had 1 or 2 that were too far gone to be rebuilt. Keep an eye on the bushing at the top of the throttle shaft and you’ll be fine. Replace it if necessary.
@@stevenmaines9114 I save tractors carbs are American made. The chinaclones are highly variable having no quality control. If you do get one check the insides for shavings before use.
I’m a 15 year old kid I’m not your usual kid as normal kids play video games everyday but that’s not the point I’ve got this John Deere 112 electric lift that I’ve had for years and it sat outside and was run down but he motor and e-lift and e-pto/clutch still works I think it sat for 11 years and I finally got the thing restored last summer lol thank the lord and it’s a beast of a tractor with it’s 12h Kohler my great grandfather got to run it one more time after it was done before he passed so that was a real blessing
If. U want the electric lift to keep working do no use a blower on the front . And none of the parts for the electric life are nla so if. Quit working u have to buy a good use one . I tend to stay away from the elric lift n the one with a cradle 73-74 .
First thing you do is blow all the junk out of the engine so it's clean when you're working on it check your spark plug check your points replace or just as necessary take the float bowl of the carburetor make sure there's no dirt in it and clean it out new air cleaner change the oil maybe flush the engine out with little transmission fluid if the oil is real dirty do not have to take the head off unless there's a lot of carbon un carbon the engine and check your valve adjustment use good grade oil add a little additive to your gas to keep the valves lubricated these engines are like dinosaurs that run forever why would you replace a carburetor what's a cheap Japanese carburetor????
I have other videos that go into further detail on some of these things. But to answer your question, you want to finish with a finer finish 150 grit minimum to maintain a good seal, but this can be slightly subjective.
Very informative Norman, one of your best! I've bought a carb and points/condenser from IST...always topnotch service and product. Been an easy winter on my Gravely 5665 with a Kohler 301, less than an hour run time in the Boston area, just about time to do end of season maintenance and put her away until next winter.
How do i get the black tar out of the small holes in the carburetor I have already tried all types of ways to clean it out it's the original carburetor I've not tried acetone yet so that's still open for me to try out it needs something that'll dissolve sticky tar all that is is really old gas that sat for years
I've talked to close to 50,000 people on the phone about these engines. I have concluded, that at this point which is normally 50 years after the carb was new, it's just time to replace them. Throttle shaft wear, jets frozen in place, and customers don't have the tools to properly bushing the shafts. If you have advanced skills you can definitely rebuild the originals, but most don't. My recommendations are based on real world evidence and knowledge and my hope is to help normal folks who love these machines. You don't realize this because you haven't heard thousands of people tell you, "I've put a carb kit in it and clean it a dozen times and it still doesn't run right or produce enough power." If you can rebuild or clean it, great, but otherwise, iSaveTractors is here to help you save your tractor.
Hi Norman I. Work on these old engines all the time, I have a small collection of Simplicity tractors. The oldest one is a 60s MW Squire 10, and the newest one is a 7119 and overall I have 6 tractors, and they all run. I was a aircraft technician for 48 years and have repaired all types of aircraft. I have a different method of setting points we used on magnetos. What ever the setting is, say .020, use the .019 and the .021 feelers as go no go and you would come out exactly .020. Try it and see how it works for you. I watch your videos and you give me a lot of ideas and information. Thanks A J K
Good video, but I will start by removing the head first. There is no point in investing in points, carburetor, etc, if the engine is shoot or need rebuilding. Also, if you need to lap the valves, you will need to remove the carburetor anyways for access... As others have point-out, and new carburetor is only required if the old one is worn-out or have been temper with (which often happens). Thank for the video.
I think you should be teaching at a Vo Tech because you really have a knack at getting your instructions across in a real world easy to comprehend manor! I am getting ready to replace head gasket that blew on a k 181 gravely engine and your video walked me thru what I will be encountering. Every so often I find someone like yourself on You Tube who really stands out in their ability to teach ! You are top tier in my opinion! Thanks a bunch ,I am sure you are inspiring a lot of folks to try their own maintenance!
Good ideas, love my old kohlers and the GTs they come on especially john deere 200 series machines. Not a great fan of the briggs as a general rule. Nothing really wrong with them, I just feel like kohler did the carb and ignition better
Hey I just bought the points and condenser set from you and it ran for about 30 minutes and I killed it and wouldn’t start and it turns out it was a bad connection to the points I fixed that and now it runs really bad if it starts and just backfires do you think my condenser went bad again?
I’ve found a lot of times the throttle shaft will wear out and allow it to suck air in yeah you could put bushings in it but really new ones aren’t that much
I have owned 3 classic cubs with K-Series engines. As soon as I got them I administratively replaced the carbs with IST carbs, no issues. The one time you DONT want carb issues is when your looking at 3' of snow.
Great video! I replaced the carburetor but this unit had just the base plate for the air cleaner ( no other parts) ...Is there a spacer between the carburetor and the base plate air cleaner? The new carburetor choke hits against the base plate of the air cleaner Preventing it from closing. Help
No no that's not how it works for the average bear, we reuse whatever possible/doable. Change the oil and as much of a proper job as possible and send it. Then order parts if you have to 👩💻.
I like to take my Kohler heads to the local machinist and have them milled flat. It usually only takes .005 or .010 to get them cleaned up and flat. An old small engine mechanic also taught me to paint the head gasket with aluminum paint and install the head gasket and head before it dries. Also, maybe I missed it but I do not think you talked about retorquing the head bolts after running the engine.
Thank you for your videos and helpful information. If needed, it seems the head should be removed and the cylinder and valves inspected before the other repairs.
Love those old k series Kohler's have owned 6 over the years. The old saying they don't make them like that anymore definitely holds true, absolutely built like a tank huge ball main bearings huge crank and beefy rod.
I've always wondered why more engines don't have ball bearings. Seems like a much less catastrophic event if it fails, not putting the crank in such danger.
Why do you replace the carburetor? I’ve only had to buy a new one maybe once before but for the most part if you clean them up and adjust them they still make the engine run like new.
A carburetor from 1960 for example is 60 years old. The pivot point where the throttle turns in a cast aluminum body will wear and cause rogue air to enter your carburetor making your air fuel mixture more and more lean as even more time goes by. Parts don't last forever, and at this time period, it's appropriate time to consider replacement.
engines and outdoors - I replace the carburetor because there is air that leaks In at the throttle shaft making it run lean, or causing it to smoke like it needs new rings. I’ve found that with a new Carb it runs much better and usually clears up any smoke. That being said if the machine is a low hour unit and everything feels tight then I will rebuild the original carburetor. But I’m finding that for an extra $40 I can slap a brand new carb on and save 1-2 hours. Time / Money
Nice tutorial. I have several Briggs that I have to get to first then about 5 Kohlers, 1 may be too far gone. Will be at your website for parts in a month or so. See you then stay well, Joe Z
Thanks for this video, I just ordered a carbrator from you 2 days ago and was wondering if they was present. Well you answered my question in this video. And I have learned so much from your videos. Thanks for the info and great products I have purchased from you. And I have told many folks about your videos and website to purchase things for a rebuilt on their vantage tractors.
Great video! Would it be prudent to check the head before you adjust valves, in case valves need lapping? How about an engine with the Kohler breakerless ignition? Is it better to convert it to points? Thanks.
Yea this was not necessarily in order. Just how it came out in the editing room to keep it clear for the video. If you have breakerless ignition, I do recommend switching back to using points.
I love the "magnetron" electronic modules. On most engines the points are under the flywheel. No need to remove it. Just clip the wire and splice it in. If the seal happens to leak a little, the oil will not affect your spark.
Another item I would add to the list would be to remove the flywheel cover and shrouds, and clean up any oil/dirt buildup and grass accumulation between the cooling fins.This is the #1 cause of premature wear on air-cooled engines, in addition to using the wrong oil...especially important on these old K series.
Some good info... I found a barn find on my 10 hp Kohler. The lady I bought it from she said it's been sitting in same spot for 25 years... looks brand new after cleaning up, just can't wait hear it run.... I got it for go kart for kids... but I'm not sure on it..for 25$ can't beat it
This video was very well done. I'm impressed. I'm pretty sure I just saved three 200 series John Deere riding mowers from the junk yard. They were at an auction, they were selling as a block of three, and I was certain they would be bought for parts and the rest would be junked. So I went as high as $600 for three, non-running tractors. They all have the rugged Kohler engine and are identical except for engine size. I am in the process of getting the 212 with 46 inch deck running. Thankfully by cleaning the contacts and gently tapping the starter with a stick, it cranked over. I had to slobber oil on the choke cable to get it loosened and then it started with NO SMOKE. Hallelujah. It had sat a long time because the mower deck pulleys were rusted and seized on the belts. I had to pry them off with a screwdriver!. Some fine grade sand paper should clean those up. I estimate I have an average $200 in each tractor, the new belts came to $91, air filter and paint added another $40 so I figure I'm going to have an operational 212 for less than $400. It even has one new tire with the little nubs on it! With a smoke free engine! I really got lucky because once pried free of the rusted on belts all the blades spin free and easy. I suspect the owner sent it to the repair shop, they gave him an estimate for repairs that was pretty high so he either dumped the tractor and left or traded it for a newer John Deere. His loss, my gain. I wasn't afraid of buying the old girls because they have a frame like a tank and the local dealer told me he could get parts for ANY John Deere. Can't beat that. The other tractors are a 210 with 38 inch mower and a 214 with no mower, it has the big dirt style tires on it. I look at the thin metal on new tractors and I know those old 200's will be a good deal for me because they are RUGGED.
It's running and man does it have power. It charged through eight inch high grass with a vengeance. This is not just a riding mower, it is a garden tractor
Great videos again. Thank you. I have a k-161 that needs this treatment. It’s been soaking in pb blast for about 3 weeks so it’s probably ready to dig in. 👍
If, as you say, it is running well, I wouldn't even begin to think of doing any of that. As you say, these engines are 40 - 50 years old, (I have 5), why risk needlessly damaging housings, sealants, and insulators. I also don't have doctors arbitrarily replace any of my 76 year old corporeal components if they're functioning well.
Constructive criticism here... A Gravely fan so I know Kohler engines. I completely agree with these five issues that should be done with every engine. The videos only weakness is that they should demonstrate how to adjust valves using two wrenches and showing all the steps. While the mystery of the crankcase ventilation system is given 5 minutes no time is given to how to adjust the valve and I assume that this video is an attempt to reach out to newbies who are trying to do their own small engine repairs. That said...I love I save tractors!!
I had an old k181 that i turned the head down in my lathe and years later i welded the spark plug hole to mill and drill where i wanted it. It ran great and i just sold it after owning it for 25 years. It was .030 over as well when i was done with it. A work horse year after year
well Horse tractor with a kolher engine but I do not know the power I am looking for a starter if you know a website thanking you good day and great video thank
Which Wheel Horse Model is it? Does it say anything on the hood? You can also email me a picture of it and I can figure out what you have. info@isavetractors.com
Hello Norman !!!! Thank you for your channel I have a 1966 Wheel Horse 12 hp engine With a sick carburetor. I have looked on your website and want order a gasket kit I’m a little confused…. Which one do I get??? Thanks in advance!!! Signed , out in the sticks Terry W
i know you know how to do this stuff but i myself would have to at least fine-tune the carb all motors are a little different and there is no way you're adjusted carb will be ready to rock on all motors what's your take on this i will get a hold of you if i need parts thanks
I need your help Norm! KT19 kohler in rare C195 wheelhorse. Ran fine yesterday. Today? Half hearted attempt to start. I checked it over...found blown fuse from ignition switch to ammeter. Attempted to replace fuse....crackling sound in fuse holder. Smoke coming from flywheel side of engine (near top of engine). Each time I attempt to replace the fuse? Same thing. Key out of ignition. Now won't crank or even a solenoid "click". Stator? Volt regulator? Something else?
My Cub 104 is 52 years old this year. I had her carb rebuilt just about 2 years ago, as well as a valve adjustment. The points have been replaced so many times, it isn't even funny. Her generator was rebuilt about 30 years ago, and other than brakes, headlights, and tires. She's pretty much untouched. My Grandfather bought her new in 1968 with most all the attachments, accept the snowblower. Having a snowblower on a tractor was a lazy man's way. She has spent the last 35 years with only her dozer blade on her, pushing snow or dirt. It wasn't that long ago she pushed 27 thousand pounds of gravel around my driveway. The old girl has been worked her entire life. In another 50 years she'll be doing the same things. I'll be dead and gone, and my kin will still be working her.
Depends how much snow you get. I get lake effect snow that can be pretty excessive. Plowing can only get the piles so high and comes a point when you can't move it. A blower puts the snow far enough away that you don't get bottled up.
Old cub cadet`s rock I have my dad`s 124 that he got new in 1969 with a snow blower.I rebuilt it in 2000 it was tired but still on the job.still using it.
Hey Norman great video thanks for the tips. I have a kohler K241 I was told it was a K301 not sure yet but It was an extra motor that came with a john Deere 112 I had bought. The oil dipstick tube had busted off it was one that mounted to the side. Was going to put this motor in my 68 112 but have not seen the right tube for it. I will have to see if I have the peice that busted off and I can inclued the modle number. The motor will be on my youtube chanel when I get the tractor going again if interested. Please let me know if you have one in stock and thanks for the video
Replace the carburetor? That's your #1? On a good running engine? No chance. Needle and seat maybe-- and even that's probably premature if it's controlling fuel.
Head’s Up !! No Spark, Note; First check for spark plug terminal break inside rubber right angle plug boot, impossible to see. before getting serious trouble shooting the rest of the ignition system.
Why replace carb unless junk I would clean it and check it over make sure not wore out maybe replacing governor. I understand checking cylinder and valves and checking out everything you said but otherwise if not broke I don't understand but I also don't make and sell parts that what I am getting your trying to sell your parts
hi good video I have question my brother buy carburator same on you web but I don't have information my question if you have the adjustment for this carburator is for caston iron 16hp kholer 341s like how mani turns for high idle and low idle thanks
Very simplified easy to follow instructions on exactly the same engine I am working on excellent, some people like to show their intelligence more than they need to and confused the shade tree mechanic that could do that hands-down explained the way you did
The best thing I have done to almost every classic cub cadet I have owned is tossed the carb and just bought a new IST one. The middle of a snow storm is the wrong time to dick around with a carb issue.
they run better with a rebuilt orginal carb, ive bought 3 ist carbs 2 for a k181 and 1 for a k301 and they dont not run anywhere near as good as a fine tuned rebuilt orginal
Can you please do a video on replacing the governor gear of a K series. I know it's a pain because you have to gut everything internally to get it out.... but it would be appreciated. I'll buy a replacement gear from you as well if you can get one.
Yeah where can I buy a carburetor or a 1250 international Cub cadet yeah but I need the whole I need every part to the corner where you could ever imagine and beyond it
I have acquired several of these series of engines over the years. Everyone did not run because the tops of the pistons had separated from the bottoms. What are the odds?
Excellent video. Many thanks for helping us, "the new to the Kohler" bunch. I "inherited" 3 of the wonderful old Kohler engines in an ebay auction. I wanted an older John Deere 200 series because I saw one in action and was impressed with its ruggedness and the fact I can still get parts for them. I accidentally found an auction on ebay and was watching the bidding. For 3 non-running, non inspected garden tractors. The dealer in Ohio had offered them with no reserve. I found out it is a HUGE dealership. I suspect he didn't want his mechanics spending time on those old tractors when they could be earning big bucks on heavy agriculture equipment. They were a 210 with 36 inch mower, a 212 with 46 inch mower, and a 214 with no mower and agriculture tires. I watched the bidding creep up by 10 or 25 dollars at a time over a period of two weeks. I finally get fed up and just decided what my maximum bid would be. I settled on $600 since I knew I would be getting numerous used parts. I placed the bid and forgot about it certain I would be out bid. Lo and behold, I got email telling me I had won and needed to pick them up in two weeks. WOW! So, I rented a U-haul 6x12 and went after them. I used graph paper to figure out placing them sideways I could get them all on by placing the one with no mower in the center. (NOTE:It would have cost more to drive to Ohio, pick up the trailer and haul it back to WI, than to get the trailer in WI and haul it both ways. The drop off fee was greater than a two day rental from WI.) I found your site and started on the 212 first. With your help I managed to get it running. But the mower deck screeched like a banshee so it came off and I had to install all new bearings and belts. It ran great for a season, then the starter would spin, but not engage. Then the corrosion get the best of the wiring and I had to remove and clean ALL the wiring connections. The ignition switch was corroded on the inside! Then the carburetor started acting up, since I had been too cheap to order a new one from you. It was leaking air around the shaft. I found a used one at a local shop but the choke lever was all wrong. So I used a scrap of metal and JBwelded it on. I have to be frugal, I'm retired and living on reduced income. The 214 will start and run if I feed it gas so it needs the fuel pump replaced and the gas line cleaned out. Will start on the 210 soon. I will b doing all the items you recommended on the other two before I put them in service. I just got lucky with the 212, didn't do any of those things. LOL I really appreciate your site and the fact you see value in these older tractors, they really are worth saving. Compared to my MTD 18 horse the John Deere 212 is a beast! That old 12hp has more power than the new 18hp, go figure that!
You win best comment award. Thanks for your kind words about our business and my videos, and I am so glad you decided to save the tractors. If you ever need any help at all, tips, guidance, advice, tech support, you give me a call or send me an email, and I will be there for you.
Hope you found this video helpful! As always if you have any questions about your vintage cast iron small engine or vintage garden tractor you can always reach out to me directly by email, phone, or our website. Ask for Norman! I help every single person who contacts us whether they are a customer or not. Our mission is to Save the Tractors! Like, Subscribe and Tell your Friends!
Just found your video. I own a 1978 John Deere 316 with this same Kohler engine. It still runs very well but after watching your video it will be receiving more attention. I just bought this tractor last summer from a dealer. It sat there for sale for along time, until I came along. I have always liked this engine...... thank you!
Hi.I brought a tractor and the engine is a kohler and it looks just like that in the video minus a few bits..I cant find where to check the oil and where to refill it.. Any ideas where to find this.. Thanks
A video of the ignition system and wiring would be greatly appreciated. I’ve replaced all the components and it still has no spark?
I just purchased a 1967 Wheel Horse 1277. Kohler K-341...I believe. Your videos are awesome. I'm not a mechanic. I work with wood. I think I can follow along.
@@johnpepper717 What model is it? Most have a dip stick must be real old..awesome!
Add a 6th step. Remove and clean out any build up of grass, dirt, and other foreign debris (mouse nest) from behind the blower housing.
@Robert Kuhnke wow that is a great ole story old Kohler tales are great!!! lol
For sure, I bought a 212 a few months back. Noticed not near as much air flowing through as on my 210 when standing on the right side. Pulled some sheet metal and it was full of mouse nest.
As well as cleaning out the fuel tank
While you had the carb off I wish you had spent a minute on the fuel pump. They do get dirty and need attention. Doing a compression check would tell me if it needs help. Inspecting the head gasket too would let me know if something was amiss. I'm all for replacing the carb if it was bad. Good informative video , keep them coming.
Take it apart. If the diaphragm us in good condition make sure the little valves are seated good sometimes they come out. Put it together. Good to go as long as the stream is steady your good
@@mjj8170 One in my garage now is proving hard to get the diaphram . Sitting for years with bad gas took a tole on it.
Love these engines.
Totally opposite my philosophy especially as I've gotten older. If it ain't broken, etc. If it's running well, I figure don't knock success. I just do straight maintenance as though I've owned it since new.
Hi I have a 314 John Deere, with a 14 horse single cylinder: Kohler engine. It will crank I have spark points in the blood I have good compression have you but will not start. When you are off the key from the start position it will fire backfire have any suggestions. Thanks don
Your key switch may be wired wrong. Make sure 12v is getting to your coil when key is in both run and start
While I agree with 90% of this video, I wouldn’t replace the carburetor if you’re capable of rebuilding one. The original Carter/Kohler carbs are excellent. I rebuild every carb on my K series engines and I’ve only had 1 or 2 that were too far gone to be rebuilt. Keep an eye on the bushing at the top of the throttle shaft and you’ll be fine. Replace it if necessary.
I agree with you .. the bishop g is replaceble. I rather have it org n not a China carb
I got bushings for the throttle from small parts. Com
@@kevinsheriffjr7700 yeah . Kirk sell them too
@@stevenmaines9114 I save tractors carbs are American made. The chinaclones are highly variable having no quality control. If you do get one check the insides for shavings before use.
@@gregolson5532 I'll never. Use a China carb on k . And I daubt there made in America..
I’m a 15 year old kid I’m not your usual kid as normal kids play video games everyday but that’s not the point I’ve got this John Deere 112 electric lift that I’ve had for years and it sat outside and was run down but he motor and e-lift and e-pto/clutch still works I think it sat for 11 years and I finally got the thing restored last summer lol thank the lord and it’s a beast of a tractor with it’s 12h Kohler my great grandfather got to run it one more time after it was done before he passed so that was a real blessing
If. U want the electric lift to keep working do no use a blower on the front . And none of the parts for the electric life are nla so if. Quit working u have to buy a good use one . I tend to stay away from the elric lift n the one with a cradle 73-74 .
Grandpaps are the best !
Steven Maines thanks man for the advice I’ll keep that in mind 👍
heyinway you know it
if only every equipment owner cares about their machines like this guy wonderful job
So that's what those strange smudges are on my dollar bills...
First thing you do is blow all the junk out of the engine so it's clean when you're working on it check your spark plug check your points replace or just as necessary take the float bowl of the carburetor make sure there's no dirt in it and clean it out new air cleaner change the oil maybe flush the engine out with little transmission fluid if the oil is real dirty do not have to take the head off unless there's a lot of carbon un carbon the engine and check your valve adjustment use good grade oil add a little additive to your gas to keep the valves lubricated these engines are like dinosaurs that run forever why would you replace a carburetor what's a cheap Japanese carburetor????
What grit sandpaper to resurface the head? That's probably an important detail. ;)
I have other videos that go into further detail on some of these things. But to answer your question, you want to finish with a finer finish 150 grit minimum to maintain a good seal, but this can be slightly subjective.
I thought your were going to say to change the oil as step 1
that's step zero lol
We’re supposed to change the oil?
No, never change the oil, it actually gets better over time, and after 40-50 years amazing!!
Jose M. Exactly. I know this because wine is the same way
Very informative Norman, one of your best! I've bought a carb and points/condenser from IST...always topnotch service and product. Been an easy winter on my Gravely 5665 with a Kohler 301, less than an hour run time in the Boston area, just about time to do end of season maintenance and put her away until next winter.
1:21 carburetor removal
2:47 valve clearance
8:25 carburetor install
11:45 governor
13:23 points
17:13 condenser
18:19 combustion chamber
Thank you! Amazing
@@Isavetractors Rohan king says your carburetors suck, just rebuild stock carb
How do i get the black tar out of the small holes in the carburetor I have already tried all types of ways to clean it out it's the original carburetor I've not tried acetone yet so that's still open for me to try out it needs something that'll dissolve sticky tar all that is is really old gas that sat for years
@@Isavetractorsif the valve clearance isn't right could they cause a tapping sound that speeds up with the RPMs?
Replace the carb? Now that is just silly. If the motor is running well, why replace the carb? Just give it a good clean.
I've talked to close to 50,000 people on the phone about these engines. I have concluded, that at this point which is normally 50 years after the carb was new, it's just time to replace them. Throttle shaft wear, jets frozen in place, and customers don't have the tools to properly bushing the shafts. If you have advanced skills you can definitely rebuild the originals, but most don't. My recommendations are based on real world evidence and knowledge and my hope is to help normal folks who love these machines. You don't realize this because you haven't heard thousands of people tell you, "I've put a carb kit in it and clean it a dozen times and it still doesn't run right or produce enough power." If you can rebuild or clean it, great, but otherwise, iSaveTractors is here to help you save your tractor.
Awesome video Norman, thanks. David from Tennessee here.
What to do when the points don't open? Even when loosened and pushed toward the block like the video indicated. I also already replaced the plunger.
Perhaps the most thorough and informative instructions I've seen on YT. Thank you Norman.
I'm also a recent customer.
Hi Norman
I. Work on these old engines all the time, I have a small collection of Simplicity tractors. The oldest one is a 60s MW Squire 10, and the newest one is a 7119 and overall I have 6 tractors, and they all run.
I was a aircraft technician for 48 years and have repaired all types of aircraft. I have a different method of setting points we used on magnetos.
What ever the setting is, say .020, use the .019 and the .021 feelers as go no go and you would come out exactly .020. Try it and see how it works for you.
I watch your videos and you give me a lot of ideas and information.
Thanks
A J K
Good video, but I will start by removing the head first. There is no point in investing in points, carburetor, etc, if the engine is shoot or need rebuilding. Also, if you need to lap the valves, you will need to remove the carburetor anyways for access... As others have point-out, and new carburetor is only required if the old one is worn-out or have been temper with (which often happens). Thank for the video.
I think you should be teaching at a Vo Tech because you really have a knack at getting your instructions across in a real world easy to comprehend manor! I am getting ready to replace head gasket that blew on a k 181 gravely engine and your video walked me thru what I will be encountering. Every so often I find someone like yourself on You Tube who really stands out in their ability to teach ! You are top tier in my opinion! Thanks a bunch ,I am sure you are inspiring a lot of folks to try their own maintenance!
Do you have a video on the K17 top 5?
Good ideas, love my old kohlers and the GTs they come on especially john deere 200 series machines. Not a great fan of the briggs as a general rule. Nothing really wrong with them, I just feel like kohler did the carb and ignition better
I just bought a carb from you so this is a huge help! Thanks!!!
Greetings from across the pond! Would one of these engines be in a Wheelhorse C-165?
Yes this would be the exact one!
Hey I just bought the points and condenser set from you and it ran for about 30 minutes and I killed it and wouldn’t start and it turns out it was a bad connection to the points I fixed that and now it runs really bad if it starts and just backfires do you think my condenser went bad again?
Always used HARDENED washers with the head bolts. The underside of the head of the bolt will dig into soft washers.
I think I need a new carb for my ford. I tried to rebuild it but she ran good in the fall but floods out in cold weather
Just rebuild the carburetor, no sense in replacing it.
I’ve found a lot of times the throttle shaft will wear out and allow it to suck air in yeah you could put bushings in it but really new ones aren’t that much
I would have lapped the valves while you had it torn down that far.
I have owned 3 classic cubs with K-Series engines. As soon as I got them I administratively replaced the carbs with IST carbs, no issues. The one time you DONT want carb issues is when your looking at 3' of snow.
Great video! I replaced the carburetor but this unit had just the base plate for the air cleaner ( no other parts) ...Is there a spacer between the carburetor and the base plate air cleaner? The new carburetor choke hits against the base plate of the air cleaner Preventing it from closing.
Help
Norman. we love you and your videos. But man, you really need to drop the volume on your opening animation. Holy cow is that too loud.
You got it!👍
MAKE SURE YOU HAVE ALL NEW GASKETS FOR ANYTHING YOU TAKE OFF PRIOR TO STARTING THE TASK
What fun is that? Better to be broken down waiting on parts 🤣
just goop the hell out of it...what can happen?
No no that's not how it works for the average bear, we reuse whatever possible/doable. Change the oil and as much of a proper job as possible and send it. Then order parts if you have to 👩💻.
I like to take my Kohler heads to the local machinist and have them milled flat. It usually only takes .005 or .010 to get them cleaned up and flat. An old small engine mechanic also taught me to paint the head gasket with aluminum paint and install the head gasket and head before it dries. Also, maybe I missed it but I do not think you talked about retorquing the head bolts after running the engine.
Thank you for your videos and helpful information. If needed, it seems the head should be removed and the cylinder and valves inspected before the other repairs.
Love those old k series Kohler's have owned 6 over the years. The old saying they don't make them like that anymore definitely holds true, absolutely built like a tank huge ball main bearings huge crank and beefy rod.
love the K series..on a quest to find a couple more.
What other engine can pull the mower and our weight can the twin briggs engine or is that to small
I've always wondered why more engines don't have ball bearings. Seems like a much less catastrophic event if it fails, not putting the crank in such danger.
I've had many of these k-series. Keep oil breather clean! This breather can wear the rings out when clogged. Backpressure/blowby.
Why do you replace the carburetor? I’ve only had to buy a new one maybe once before but for the most part if you clean them up and adjust them they still make the engine run like new.
He doesn't make any money when you clean and use your perfectly good carb that wasn't made in China
A carburetor from 1960 for example is 60 years old. The pivot point where the throttle turns in a cast aluminum body will wear and cause rogue air to enter your carburetor making your air fuel mixture more and more lean as even more time goes by. Parts don't last forever, and at this time period, it's appropriate time to consider replacement.
@maggs131 Our carbs are not made in China. While we are a business, we exist only to help customers and tractors. So don't be an ass.
@@Isavetractors only to help customers? So your profits go to charity. Well that's cool then
engines and outdoors - I replace the carburetor because there is air that leaks In at the throttle shaft making it run lean, or causing it to smoke like it needs new rings. I’ve found that with a new Carb it runs much better and usually clears up any smoke. That being said if the machine is a low hour unit and everything feels tight then I will rebuild the original carburetor. But I’m finding that for an extra $40 I can slap a brand new carb on and save 1-2 hours. Time / Money
Nice tutorial. I have several Briggs that I have to get to first then about 5 Kohlers, 1 may be too far gone. Will be at your website for parts in a month or so. See you then stay well, Joe Z
This video was very helpful thank you for all you hard work and amazing content !
Thanks for this video, I just ordered a carbrator from you 2 days ago and was wondering if they was present. Well you answered my question in this video. And I have learned so much from your videos. Thanks for the info and great products I have purchased from you. And I have told many folks about your videos and website to purchase things for a rebuilt on their vantage tractors.
Great video! Would it be prudent to check the head before you adjust valves, in case valves need lapping? How about an engine with the Kohler breakerless ignition? Is it better to convert it to points? Thanks.
Yea this was not necessarily in order. Just how it came out in the editing room to keep it clear for the video. If you have breakerless ignition, I do recommend switching back to using points.
I love the "magnetron" electronic modules. On most engines the points are under the flywheel. No need to remove it. Just clip the wire and splice it in. If the seal happens to leak a little, the oil will not affect your spark.
Another item I would add to the list would be to remove the flywheel cover and shrouds, and clean up any oil/dirt buildup and grass accumulation between the cooling fins.This is the #1 cause of premature wear on air-cooled engines, in addition to using the wrong oil...especially important on these old K series.
but on my jd 110 you have to remove the engine from the tractor to take of the flywheel cover but yes you have a good point
@@spencer1096 Yep...sometimes it's worth pulling the engine out to give it a good cleaning.
Some good info... I found a barn find on my 10 hp Kohler. The lady I bought it from she said it's been sitting in same spot for 25 years... looks brand new after cleaning up, just can't wait hear it run.... I got it for go kart for kids... but I'm not sure on it..for 25$ can't beat it
This video was very well done. I'm impressed.
I'm pretty sure I just saved three 200 series John Deere riding mowers from the junk yard. They were at an auction, they were selling as a block of three, and I was certain they would be bought for parts and the rest would be junked. So I went as high as $600 for three, non-running tractors. They all have the rugged Kohler engine and are identical except for engine size. I am in the process of getting the 212 with 46 inch deck running. Thankfully by cleaning the contacts and gently tapping the starter with a stick, it cranked over. I had to slobber oil on the choke cable to get it loosened and then it started with NO SMOKE. Hallelujah. It had sat a long time because the mower deck pulleys were rusted and seized on the belts. I had to pry them off with a screwdriver!. Some fine grade sand paper should clean those up.
I estimate I have an average $200 in each tractor, the new belts came to $91, air filter and paint added another $40 so I figure I'm going to have an operational 212 for less than $400. It even has one new tire with the little nubs on it! With a smoke free engine! I really got lucky because once pried free of the rusted on belts all the blades spin free and easy. I suspect the owner sent it to the repair shop, they gave him an estimate for repairs that was pretty high so he either dumped the tractor and left or traded it for a newer John Deere. His loss, my gain. I wasn't afraid of buying the old girls because they have a frame like a tank and the local dealer told me he could get parts for ANY John Deere. Can't beat that.
The other tractors are a 210 with 38 inch mower and a 214 with no mower, it has the big dirt style tires on it. I look at the thin metal on new tractors and I know those old 200's will be a good deal for me because they are RUGGED.
It's running and man does it have power. It charged through eight inch high grass with a vengeance. This is not just a riding mower, it is a garden tractor
Great videos again. Thank you.
I have a k-161 that needs this treatment. It’s been soaking in pb blast for about 3 weeks so it’s probably ready to dig in. 👍
If, as you say, it is running well, I wouldn't even begin to think of doing any of that. As you say, these engines are 40 - 50 years old, (I have 5), why risk needlessly damaging housings, sealants, and insulators. I also don't have doctors arbitrarily replace any of my 76 year old corporeal components if they're functioning well.
just picked up an old K91 on a wacker plate compactor
Hi Norm, That was a really good video. Look forward to the next one.
😏 yes thank ya Norman!
Constructive criticism here... A Gravely fan so I know Kohler engines. I completely agree with these five issues that should be done with every engine. The videos only weakness is that they should demonstrate how to adjust valves using two wrenches and showing all the steps. While the mystery of the crankcase ventilation system is given 5 minutes no time is given to how to adjust the valve and I assume that this video is an attempt to reach out to newbies who are trying to do their own small engine repairs. That said...I love I save tractors!!
I had an old k181 that i turned the head down in my lathe and years later i welded the spark plug hole to mill and drill where i wanted it. It ran great and i just sold it after owning it for 25 years. It was .030 over as well when i was done with it. A work horse year after year
I'm learning about those new engines right now and whatever stuff I do to mine
K s never die. Unless you running then out of oil. I run case .cub. Jonh deer not my favorite.
well Horse tractor with a kolher engine but I do not know the power I am looking for a starter if you know a website thanking you good day and great video thank
Which Wheel Horse Model is it? Does it say anything on the hood? You can also email me a picture of it and I can figure out what you have. info@isavetractors.com
@@Isavetractors merci beaucoup
Hello Norman !!!!
Thank you for your channel
I have a 1966 Wheel Horse 12 hp engine
With a sick carburetor. I have looked on your website and want order a gasket kit I’m a little confused…. Which one do I get???
Thanks in advance!!! Signed , out in the sticks Terry W
Lol you stalker just purchased my first old lawn tractor, John Deere 314 for 10$ with the Kohler k series haha great timing
wow 4 years passed and im visiting this video again with my newest purchace. powerking 14hp. i have a john deere 140 now too with the kohler too
Just picked up a Gravely 8179 that was repowered with a Kohler K321a. Great info here. I’ll be ordering some parts before spring
Very kool
Liked and subbed. Will be shopping your store Norm. Dandahermit😅
If the carb works, keep it. Use it.
A good working old carb will always be better than new junk.
Don’t just replace it because 🤷🏼♂️
i know you know how to do this stuff but i myself would have to at least fine-tune the carb all motors are a little different and there is no way you're adjusted carb will be ready to rock on all motors what's your take on this i will get a hold of you if i need parts thanks
Norman Great video and thankyou for your information and help, soon there will be a great K341 and Work Horse running well in France. Gooday
I need your help Norm!
KT19 kohler in rare C195 wheelhorse.
Ran fine yesterday. Today?
Half hearted attempt to start.
I checked it over...found blown fuse from ignition switch to ammeter. Attempted to replace fuse....crackling sound in fuse holder. Smoke coming from flywheel side of engine (near top of engine).
Each time I attempt to replace the fuse? Same thing. Key out of ignition. Now won't crank or even a solenoid "click".
Stator? Volt regulator? Something else?
My Cub 104 is 52 years old this year. I had her carb rebuilt just about 2 years ago, as well as a valve adjustment. The points have been replaced so many times, it isn't even funny. Her generator was rebuilt about 30 years ago, and other than brakes, headlights, and tires. She's pretty much untouched.
My Grandfather bought her new in 1968 with most all the attachments, accept the snowblower. Having a snowblower on a tractor was a lazy man's way. She has spent the last 35 years with only her dozer blade on her, pushing snow or dirt. It wasn't that long ago she pushed 27 thousand pounds of gravel around my driveway. The old girl has been worked her entire life.
In another 50 years she'll be doing the same things. I'll be dead and gone, and my kin will still be working her.
J D up in Maine snowblowers aren’t optional some years, you simply run out of places to put the snow without one.
Depends how much snow you get. I get lake effect snow that can be pretty excessive. Plowing can only get the piles so high and comes a point when you can't move it. A blower puts the snow far enough away that you don't get bottled up.
Old cub cadet`s rock I have my dad`s 124 that he got new in 1969 with a snow blower.I rebuilt it in 2000 it was tired but still on the job.still using it.
Hey Norman great video thanks for the tips. I have a kohler K241 I was told it was a K301 not sure yet but It was an extra motor that came with a john Deere 112 I had bought. The oil dipstick tube had busted off it was one that mounted to the side. Was going to put this motor in my 68 112 but have not seen the right tube for it. I will have to see if I have the peice that busted off and I can inclued the modle number. The motor will be on my youtube chanel when I get the tractor going again if interested. Please let me know if you have one in stock and thanks for the video
Also do you have any filter asembly housings for a 112 kohler
nice work,even mentioned the back and forth strategy the K carb bolts .solid work brother and good advice with no bullshit love it thanks
How can i get a manual for my 14 horse kohler engine k series?
We have them for download: isavetractors.com/service-manuals/
Good video but I certainly wouldn't replace a known good working OEM carb with aftermarket. Maybe just a good cleaning and an OEM carb kit.
Replace the carburetor? That's your #1? On a good running engine? No chance. Needle and seat maybe-- and even that's probably premature if it's controlling fuel.
The most important point, change the oil. I do that to any engine I own as soon as I get it running.
Head’s Up !!
No Spark, Note;
First check for spark plug terminal break inside rubber right angle plug boot, impossible to see.
before getting serious trouble shooting the rest of the ignition system.
Don't buy the 2000 or newer Krowler engines, they suck.. a note from a small engine mechanic!
Yeah the courage suck . Alotnof cracked blocks .. ks and magnums r the best never had a problem. But now the courage is nla... There 7000 series now
1978 k341 kholer engine good?
Why replace carb unless junk I would clean it and check it over make sure not wore out maybe replacing governor. I understand checking cylinder and valves and checking out everything you said but otherwise if not broke I don't understand but I also don't make and sell parts that what I am getting your trying to sell your parts
I'm guessing you sell carbs otherwise it's stupid to replace a perfectly good one with a Chinese knockoff.
hi good video I have question my brother buy carburator same on you web but I don't have information my question if you have the adjustment for this carburator is for caston iron 16hp kholer 341s like how mani turns for high idle and low idle thanks
DUDE GREAT VIDEO- LOVE YOU GUYS!!!!
Very simplified easy to follow instructions on exactly the same engine I am working on excellent, some people like to show their intelligence more than they need to and confused the shade tree mechanic that could do that hands-down explained the way you did
I wouldn't replace the carb unless I had to because the original is 10 times better than aftermarket.
The best thing I have done to almost every classic cub cadet I have owned is tossed the carb and just bought a new IST one. The middle of a snow storm is the wrong time to dick around with a carb issue.
they run better with a rebuilt orginal carb, ive bought 3 ist carbs 2 for a k181 and 1 for a k301 and they dont not run anywhere near as good as a fine tuned rebuilt orginal
Can you please do a video on replacing the governor gear of a K series. I know it's a pain because you have to gut everything internally to get it out.... but it would be appreciated. I'll buy a replacement gear from you as well if you can get one.
I was thinking the same. Mine was loose and hanging when I got it. I tightened it down. Not sure if theres damage
My tiller Kohler mag 8 has no holes for this application. Cannot find any holes. Must be electronic.
Replacing the factory carb with cheap Chinese garbage is a bad idea. Just rebuild the original.
Awesome video !!!!
Yeah where can I buy a carburetor or a 1250 international Cub cadet yeah but I need the whole I need every part to the corner where you could ever imagine and beyond it
I have acquired several of these series of engines over the years. Everyone did not run because the tops of the pistons had separated from the bottoms.
What are the odds?
Excellent video. Many thanks for helping us, "the new to the Kohler" bunch.
I "inherited" 3 of the wonderful old Kohler engines in an ebay auction.
I wanted an older John Deere 200 series because I saw one in action and was impressed with its ruggedness and the fact I can still get parts for them.
I accidentally found an auction on ebay and was watching the bidding. For 3 non-running, non inspected garden tractors.
The dealer in Ohio had offered them with no reserve. I found out it is a HUGE dealership. I suspect he didn't want his mechanics spending time on those old tractors when they could be earning big bucks on heavy agriculture equipment. They were a 210 with 36 inch mower, a 212 with 46 inch mower, and a 214 with no mower and agriculture tires. I watched the bidding creep up by 10 or 25 dollars at a time over a period of two weeks. I finally get fed up and just decided what my maximum bid would be. I settled on $600 since I knew I would be getting numerous used parts. I placed the bid and forgot about it certain I would be out bid. Lo and behold, I got email telling me I had won and needed to pick them up in two weeks. WOW!
So, I rented a U-haul 6x12 and went after them. I used graph paper to figure out placing them sideways I could get them all on by placing the one with no mower in the center.
(NOTE:It would have cost more to drive to Ohio, pick up the trailer and haul it back to WI, than to get the trailer in WI and haul it both ways. The drop off fee was greater than a two day rental from WI.)
I found your site and started on the 212 first. With your help I managed to get it running. But the mower deck screeched like a banshee so it came off and I had to install all new bearings and belts.
It ran great for a season, then the starter would spin, but not engage. Then the corrosion get the best of the wiring and I had to remove and clean ALL the wiring connections. The ignition switch was corroded on the inside! Then the carburetor started acting up, since I had been too cheap to order a new one from you. It was leaking air around the shaft. I found a used one at a local shop but the choke lever was all wrong. So I used a scrap of metal and JBwelded it on. I have to be frugal, I'm retired and living on reduced income.
The 214 will start and run if I feed it gas so it needs the fuel pump replaced and the gas line cleaned out.
Will start on the 210 soon. I will b doing all the items you recommended on the other two before I put them in service. I just got lucky with the 212, didn't do any of those things. LOL
I really appreciate your site and the fact you see value in these older tractors, they really are worth saving. Compared to my MTD 18 horse the John Deere 212 is a beast! That old 12hp has more power than the new 18hp, go figure that!
You win best comment award. Thanks for your kind words about our business and my videos, and I am so glad you decided to save the tractors. If you ever need any help at all, tips, guidance, advice, tech support, you give me a call or send me an email, and I will be there for you.
So I have been thinking about buying a lawn tractor what would you say is the best brands
Anything with less than 5lbs of plastic.
@@kylekenan2321 yeah that's the way everything is nowadays
New or used?
Get an old IH Cub Cadet!
@@R3TR0R4V3 🤫
What would cause a slight knock when engine is running. It then disappears under load.
Une fois de plus, Génial 😁
Thanks Norman
Awesome video, this will be super helpful. Thanks for taking the time to walk us through the maintenance of a forgotten engine.
Why use a haywire adjustable wrench? Surely you have the correct wrench?
If u did buy a carb and it needed adjusted for a 212 jd how many turns is the high and low
Old boat anchor!! I'm done with these old k series motors!!!!
My wheel horse is straight piped. It sounds good.
You all are awesome. Thank you for what you do.
Dollar bill caused mine not to fire had some kind of wax or residue I use to use a dollar tell then lol use clean paper now
I need a valve cover and the valve cover guts for a k241.
Absolutely no point in replacing a carb for no reason. Waste of funds
I'd just convert it to transistorized coil and forget the points.
why would you replace the carb if its working good
Where r u located in Maine? Im in Bangor i sometimes need case and jd parts