Butchered Ford Transit DPF P244C:00-28 Exhaust Temperature Too Low For Particulate Filter Regen
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- Опубликовано: 31 мар 2023
- another ford transit 2.2 that had multiple mechanic visits and various repairs without fixing the issue.
dpf not reaching temperature due to the vaporizer being blocked not injecting fuel to the diesel particulate filter to burn off the soot.
P2463:00-AF Particulate Filter Restriction Soot Accumulation 
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Nice to see a good mechanic who knows what he's talking about thanks for the excellent information
Thanks for watching!
Again and again it goes to show you know what you are doing 👍 I’ve leant so much from you and hope to continue too…. Keep these vids coming…. I owe you one👍👍
Love the innuendo laden commentary while fitting the vaporiser.
What a bodge job that was done before that van came to you Jimmy. Great work sorting out someone else’s mess but I’d have walked away.
That was certainly an interesting one 😅
Something I don't understand is the need for a service after a regen. I get it that on certain vehicles you'll get some amount of fuel mixed in with the oil each time, but surely that can happen numerous times between even a short service interval? Unless you do a lot of driving that allows passive regen I guess?
have a couple of these a week and first thing i go for is vaporiser, in colder months bad thermostat show and don’t allow engine temp to get above 80’c and won’t regenerate, so many garages drill them out instead of looking why it was fecked in the first place
That's incredible! Who needs mates with guys like him? Maybe the customer was a bit easy on the facts with that job jimmy😉. You navigated well through that mess.
It probably was drilled out I know a garage that cuts a little hole like that and drills a 20mm hole through the dpf material. He told me he found a 20mm hole is the sweet spot for still giving low pressure readings. I don't recommend it he is the most dodgy git you could ever meet
It can be hard to understand what some mechanics/garages beforehand 🤷🏼♂️🤷🏼♂️
Those vaporisers can be a bit of a pain to change too, you’d need long arms Jimmy 😂😂👍
FInbarr Saunders alive and well fitting Transit vaporizers 😂
Another good video jimmy,it's obviously new old stock dpf though😂
I wouldn’t of been able to sleep until I knew what was inside that & would of had to of stuck me borescope in there!
But time is money I suppose.
It will fail it’s next MOT anyway due to the Swiss Cheese welding.
Fingers first then tool....now i understand
maybe they opened the dpf up to put some extra soot in there ,the only reason to butcher one is to empty it to make a straight tru exhaust
I thought I'd clicked on a Carry On film for a bit....
WOW! What a bodge!
DPF looks like one thats been pinched off another van. That would explain the welding.
"Sketchy" best covers this. :-) Run!!!
can you help me with any idea to find the root cause? Particle filter show clogged up 90%, no errors and I changed the pressure sensor I have differential pressure 6-7mBar at idle and 17mBar ~2000rpm, it does not look clogged. I reset the learned values a week ago, and yet is 90% clogged with good differential pressure (Lancia Delta 1.6 Multijet, no vaporizer).
* Thanks for sharing your knowledge, I learned a lot watching your work, I just do myself the maintenance and it helped me to better understand how dpf is working.
haha, good rodding and screwing then all finished with fingers. cant beat it.
HELP ANYONE. Just cleaned my dpf changed my egr valve replaced my pressure sensor and the pipe before the dpf. And I'm still getting strange reading on live data egr ptc very erratic any suggestions please. And what the hell is egr ptc?
Why would you need to change the oil before and after a forced regen?
Decent oil for prolonged running at static speed and fresh oil after to clear the fuel heavy oil out👍🏻. The pre change is just a precaution, especially if its got a dodgy service history. We get a signiture incase of engine failure every time.
they've not drilled it thru, probably just made few tiny holes in it to help with pressure
Thank you. in your opinion, what should be the value at idle and at 3000 rpm to be able to say that the dpf is clean ?
below 10 on idle 50 ish at 3000
I defo thought someone had emptied that dpf
I was doing a forced registration on ford transit custom and it cut out now it won't start said thermal temperature to high I think I seen 1 of you videos saying that it has protection and won't start for about 1 hour was that correct please
Hi Jimmy just a quick question what do you think of wynns off car dpf cleaner is it any good because iv took my dpf off as it is blocked and my van is in limp mode
hE USED to use the WYNNS go back to older videos. What he uses now is recent advancement
Hellooo
First of allí thanks for the info you share
I have a Ford Smax with the problem you show
The OBD2 shows P244C00
2 months ago with the same problem, the mechanics changed the temperature sensor of the DPF and could reset the alarm.
I drove for 2000kms and now i have the same problem. This time, the OBD2 shows a real temperature, the diferencial presure is 0- 5mbar and the soot is 85%
They say i have to change dpf.
Do you know if this alarm can occurs because of the level of acumulated soot?
Thank you a lot!
Try adding diesel additives to the fuel tank then top up with diesel premium checking the normal oil then give it a motorway run of 45 minutes in 3rd gear or 4th at 3000rpm
He certainly didn't fit a new dpf!
Some mate 🙄🙈
Hi,
Questions:
1) Why are you recommending that the engine oil is changed before and after a static regeneration, when under normal conditions the vehicle will automatically do regenerations when the vehicle is running, which then does not flag up that an oil change is required?.
I had a blocked vaporiser on my S Max, and when I had my oil.sample checked by Millers Oils, the fuel dilution and soot contamination was too high. Changed the oil before I did a static regeneration, after unblocking the vaporiser and checking the glow plug, after which the static regeneration was completed.
As such, why do I need to change the oil again?
2) Why are you against static regenerations?
3) When you put the Launch DPF fluid into the front of the DPF, how long do you leave it to soak before you start running the engine again?
4) As you are soaking the DPF fluid from the front of the DPF, where the blockage is at its highest, then the unblocked particles are then pushed towards the back of the DPF, which is less blocked, surely you are then blocking the back end of the DPF?.
My logic is that the only way to have a long-term solution to a blocked DPF is to remove it and back flush it on a suitable machine.
Would you agree?
Mike.
For what it's worth, my opinion is that the dpf fluid desolves the soot and the force of the exhaust makes sure the fluid gets through to the rear of the filter element thus cleaning most of the soot out. Dpf cleaner is unlikely to remove the melted soot that forms from regents but will clean sufficiently to allow normal operation. We always replace the oil twice. 1st before the clean/regen to flush out as it will be static running at speed, then after for the obvious reason. Just a case of better safe than sorry. I've seen oil pressures drop halfway through a static regen due to poor grade oil! It's neither right or wrong to do it that way but it's how we do it too.
Not a mechanic or expert, but I think the reasons are static regen isn't the same as automatic one in motion.
He generally doesn't recommend static regen at all IIRC, because risk of excessive amounts of carbon in it, overheating dpf, causing early shut down of regen cycle on thermal overload, leading to bad things like cracked dpf.
As for changing oil beforehand, not sure. Maybe because it's a stressful cycle on the engine, you want to be sure there's good oil in there, maybe automatic regens weren't happening because oil was low or not changed, and someone's just reset the counter.
As for changing it afterwards, like you mention, possible fuel dilution, and again that stressful cycle without cooling of vehicle in motion, could come with more wear, or dislodge sludge.
I'm guessing static regen is more a time saver for dealerships, perhaps when they know the vehicle is only doing short trips, but it's actually a stressful cycle on the vehicle
remove dpf
YEARS AGO a timing chain was 3 ROW over GEARS not sprockets and didn't look like a chain. BIG bearing journals [volvo petrol] could cope with 5x the power produced. WIDE CAM LOBES that didn't wear and turned valve.
MODERN ENGINES- INGENIUM from ITGOBANG ROVER they boast that it has 17% less friction than similar engines = LESS FRICTION as the bearings are SO NARROW.
ANY SPLIT RAD HOSE and the engine will cook itself,
ANY OLD OIL and the engine cooks itself,
HIGH EXHAUST PRESSURE from blocked dpf = engine will cook itself,
DIESEL REGEN contaminates oil = engine will cook itself
they are DESIGNED TO GO BANG as soon as they are outside warranty after METICULOUS SERVICING at dealer at HUGE COST. - RIP-OFF
I was doing a forced registration on ford transit custom and it cut out now it won't start said thermal temperature to high I think I seen 1 of you videos saying that it has protection and won't start for about 1 hour was that correct please
Yes that's correct. It's designed to stop you damaging the dpf or fire hazard.
Thisnis why you should not regen a blocked dpf