I don't have much experience in killing things with bow and arrow (maybe 30 deer). Thank you for giving your definitive opinion on this. Too many archers with extensive experience pussyfoot around and don't give less experienced people their honest take on a subject. I talked to an archery shop owner in Rochester, Minnesota and asked him about proper arrow weights for hunting - he gave me a definitive answer and I appreciated it. Thanks again, Sir.
There often are many great ways to achieve the same result. My thoughts on the wide heads is my preference. But the biggest problem is the broadhead manufacturers don't care about us. They only care about thier stupid 1 and 1/8 standard. So few make a wider cut head. And it's a shame as many of us want one. We have shot wide heads for 30 years. And every uear there are less and less wide heads available and a bunch of companies making the same dang 1 and 1/8 head as every other company.
16 min in. Some of the best insight I have heard to date regarding arrow penetration. Jason you are a great source for this stuff. Really appreciate your videos.
WELL SAID!!!!!!!!!!! 3:50 PERFECTLY STATED!! I don't shot trad but I agree 1000%! I don't like little heads either. Nope, no thanks. I had to use a xbow this past year and I got a nice doe with a single bevel head (has a bleeder too) 1 3/16" cut (I'd prefer larger, but hey, it worked damn well), and to say that I was impressed would be an understatement. I had lung chunks coming out when I gutted her. Not like a shredded lung, but there were definite pieces coming out. It was a bit of a high hit but I had blood right off and by the time she dropped (I heard her) it was pouring out. I am a single bevel fanboy now! All somebody has to do is shoot a foam target with one and you can see the "S" cut and you can feel the arrow rotating when you pull it out. Seeing it here on a video and seeing it in person are two different things. Shoulder hits. All of my hits have been on far side hits (exit side) on deer that were close, 10 yards or so. One was a complete pass through (Magnus Stinger), one made it half way through (Muzzy 3 blade - buck) and one hit the blade and stopped (Doe, 1/4 ing pretty hard). I hit MAJOR vessels on that one and she bled like she was hit with a slug. Which made the blood trail very easy LOL My point is, even at close range, with a compound, I only had one out of 3 shoulder hits get exits. And the one that I did get it with is an aggressive cam "speed" bow. Which proves your "should point" perfectly. When I was watching I also thought of all the people I have seen saying how much of a better blood trail they got with a head from a certain maker that was 1 1/4" vs their smaller cut, longer profile head.. Makes sense, doesn't it? Great video as always!!
I agree 1000% with you Jason! Slam dunk!!!! Been shooting Magnus 1's for 31 years. Come on folks make us some wide glue ons period. Thanks Jason you seem like a real good man. Keep up the great videos
My journey ended with me using vpa three blade 200 grains... Love em, my first time using a three blade and I won't go back to a two blade, I swear the thing penetrates better than my previous two blades, but with a better hole.
Never been a fan of 3 or 4 blades personally. Nothing wrong with them. But I prefer 2 blades. Very happy that you found heads that give you the confidence and work great for you. I hear vpa makes fantastic heads!
I’m only on this traditional journey for 12 years, but I’ve used the tuffheads (1-1/8”) since about 10 years ago. I’ve never had a problem with blood trails and only had one non-recovery. I appreciate and understand what you’re saying, but I have had nothing but good luck with these heads. Great info and insight, as always, though!!
Tuff heads are amazing heads! And lots of animals far each year to 1 and 1/8. But I much prefer a wider head, better blood trails and quicker recoveries (much faster blood loss from bigger hole). Definitely nothing wrong with narrow heads and they sure do work great. But for me and my experience wider is better. All personal preference and we can only draw our thoughts form our own experiences. Mine tell me to stay with wide. But again just my preference.
@@SamkoTradBow no doubt! I actually have a set of Abowyer 1-5/16” 300 grain heads in my archery box right now. Been there for a couple years. Think I’ll give them a shot next year.
Hi Jason. Love the channel. I climbed to cover 10feet maybe hidden perfect using a grizzly 125 g with 125 g adapter single bevel 1/1/8. Head. Straight through a doe zero blood upsetting didn’t find her just bought ace 165 g 1/5/16. Wide double bevel 2/3/4 long looking forward to this broadhead your testing I try to get to 250 g. Keep up the good work.
Yep the 1 and 1/8 heads have thier fans. And many people really like them. Personally I won't shoot anything under a 1.25 and prefer 1.5. With out knowledge or foc, arrow tuning etc there is no reason to shoot a 1 and 1/8. This will pizs off alot of people but I do believe if 1.25 was the standard way less animals would be lost. I can not remeber the last time I lost an animal that was hit in the body. And I've made some bad hits. But a 1.5 broadhead saved the day on many of them.
Also that ace is an amazing broadhead! Absolutely amazing by a fantastic company. You will love the results. They are a softer temper so light pressure when sharpening them gets the wicked sharp.
We need to limit our shots to ethical shots - totally agree. I shoot compound at 70lbs - so should have even more penetration and be able to use a wider head. My question is - how well does the 11/2 inch wide head shoot compared to the field point? Does the wider blades not cause more planing and poorer accuracy? Looking at buying 150 or 200 grain single bevel VPA - but all 11/8 wide.
3 factors contribute to broadhead planning. 1 is speed. Faster the arrow the more wind planing can happen. That's why we love heavy arrows. They are not fast but hit like a semi truck. 2 is arrow weight up front. Weight leads and if you have high foc the weight leads and over powers the planning. 3 is arrow tune. With good arrow flight the arrow recovers and flies straight with much less chance of planing. So setting up for wide heads is usually required rather than just slapping a wide head on any arrow. But the benefits are well worth it in my opinion
I totally agree with your reasoning on this topic , and I too would love to get some 1 1/4 " or 1 1/2 " single bevel heads , In fact I just text messaged a company and asked that very same question , I hope they are listening and reading the comments on your channel . I have a long draw of 31" , so even if i'm using a 40 # bow @ 28 " i'm in the low mid 50"s on the poundage , thanks for bringing up this argument on Broadhead diameter , hopefully some of these companies will do the right thing!
The other problem is that brands are making these 2 blade heads for people using compound/lever bows or are going the thin skinny route for traditional because the numbers are growing of people that want to try and hunt with a full wood pre WWII but after WWI style flat limb longbow with the full pre WWII but after WWI Setup. The Pre WWII but after setup for hunting had Broadheads that were long and skinny as they thought that using a thin head helped aid in passing through the Deer, Turkey, or Wild Boar/Wild Hog. You see a number of pictures pre WWII of Howard Hill using bows with really long skinny heads for big game but was one of the lesser group using heads of this size until his death in 1973 , as a few brands like Bear or Zwikky brand and a few others still make that same style today or have started to begin making them again starting in the 2000's. This is why I plan to use a 3 blade that is like an old discontinued model of 3 blade by Wasp archery at 100 grains that is in the Muzzy MX-3/MX-4 100 grain style of shape. This blade is a Chinese generic design for my big game shots. Now for small game the style I plan to use is a fully fixed small 3 blade 100 in same style, carrying one arrow so 7 with me for hunting that could in a pinch be used for big game as it is also above the minimum 75 grains weight for archery hunting in South Dakota that only other rules are they must be 2 blade (or may still 3 for spring turkey?) and have a double bevel for hunting. No size limit other then the people enforcing the rules consider 1/3 inch or less in total a barb not a broadhead and this small game I have is ~ 2/3 an inch.
@@SamkoTradBow Why do that? I mean the head is just going to have an issue with leaving a blood trail due to the small holes in the animal, plus a few states like Ohio some are so skinny under 1 & 1/16 or inches at 1 inch wide at base they are not legal. To me the 3:1 style in a double blade seems to only make sense if you have a compound or a lever bow that can use the long head cutting insides well due to the FPS and are wanting the max durability of a solid broadhead when going 2 blade. Using the 3:1 solid 2 blade is something that few compound guys do, as more go with the open hole type wide screw in broadheads at 125--150 grains if they even use a 2 blade not a 3 or 4 in any style often 125 grains or under despite 150 grains becoming more common. If not some type of fixed head, the compound/lever bow guys are going mechanical if legal to hunt with in the state they live in.
@@SamkoTradBow Yes they are for 3:1 thin 2 blade solid heads are best or Compounds but most of the people are using them for hunting with a flat limb longbow/mostly or a few recurve guys. Who have no need to be using such a device, they are being sold on 3 Rivers with most of the reviews by flat limbed longbow guys who want to hunt like Howard Hill did using skinny broadheads as to what most of what was out at the time pre WWII. Also if using an English longbow hunting but can't use a thin barbed Medieval/Saxson point to hunt in most of the states in USA and Provinces in Canada nor can they use the other period hunting points as they do not qualify correctly to modern rules as a broadhead but rather a diamond shape field point with only one design of a pyramidal Medieval/Saxson longbow broadhead lightly modified with bevels to count as a modern broadhead and then in some states they do no meet the width total blade width requirement for hunting.
Agree 100% with you on this. I'm shooting the Abowyer bone head large and the Simmons Treeshark with Uukha 43# limbs on my ILF setup this year. Was worried about penetration shooting such lite poundage but shot 5 with this setup and complete pass thru on all of them. I had to drop draw weight this year from 60# to a 43# ILF setup do to having pins put in draw hand. Absolutely love the bigger heads and dont see the advantages of the smaller heads.
Congrats on the 5 deer and the determination to make the hunting season work even with a busted up hand! Well done! Hopefully brpadhead companies listen to us and hopefully abowyer refills the inventory soon!
Is it a marketing tendency? A narrower broadhead flies more like a field point, and penetrates farther due to less resistance and wins those two considerations.... pleases the average buyer with average bow tune?
Not sure the reason. But there are thousands of us that have no problem tuning a bow, shoot enough weight to not care about extra penetration as we blow through most stuff regardless and we definitely can make any broadhead flies like our field tips. Those in this group want an 1.25-1.5 wide head about 2.5 inches long!
but, but, but.......it's all about shot placement if you listen to all the internet professional hunters! You know, those that never kill anything but paper and foam and have no understanding of all the factors that come into play in a real hunting scenario. Foam doesn't move and there are no twigs or limbs in your backyard. Forget the nerves and adrenaline that come into a hunting situation. I agree Jason, wide is where it is at!!!
Excellent points that rarely get brought up. And I do agree. Seems like the majority of people that kill alot of animals have come to the very same conclusion that wider recovers more animals. Look at your normal year for example. You kill more animals in a year than most people kill in 5 years. Same here. I've killed 10 big game animals this year already and hoping for a few more pigs before heading home. Doing that over some years creates a big real world test pool vs the guy who kills 2 deer a year. For me and my collected real world data. 1.25-1.5 x 2.5 long is the ultimate broadhead!
I spent years trying one head after another and I finally stopped on the Maasai broadheads. They are single bevel cut on contact but only 11/8. I have harvested hogs, deer, and elk without any disappointment. For the last decade they are all I have shot. The only issue has been the cost. At $30+ per head it isn't cost effective for many. I would still like a wider head so I will be trying some of these you are talking about if I can get my hands on some
Maasai is a great head. Wish they made it in a 1.25 or 1.5. That's the whole point of this video. So many great heads out there yet all for some stupid reason only make them 1 and 1/8!
The only way to test would be a side by side test but in theory a Smaller head would offer better penetration for pass through shots and less deflection if it hits a bone. But in reality unlike handguns you don’t use penetration to kill with a bow you use blood loss by laceration.
Yep and many tests out there to study. But from my own experience and test pool of over 150 big game animals I will keep shooting wide heads. I can count on 3 fingers how many times I wished I had a narrower broadhead
I wish more companies would make glue on broadheads that are available in the store. My new long bow will be here next week. 62 at 28 but I pull 26,it’s a bighorn ram hunter I’m ready to build some magnum arrows. Im probably going aluminum shafts
Alien Archery makes some two blade single bevels in 1 1/4 and 1 1/2 cuts. They are an Australian company, I think there are several Aussie companies that make old school broad heads like your talking about.
Thanks. I ha e looked at thier heads before. Not really a fan of the shapes and they don't offer heavier weights like most of us want. I'm my opinion too many companies are trying to reinvent the wheel. Just make a 1.5 wide by 2.5 long triangular head with a single bevel and sell thousands of them! Not that complicated.
Replying to self. Found them on EBAY and it appears they were 1.5". So..just wondering..a 3 blade gives you 1.875" of cutting edge. Different reasoning applies?
Loved the old deadheads! I'm not a fan of 3 blades. They are great heads but for me the 3rd blade requires more energy, they are harder to sharpen, the don't fit in my quiver with out cutting new holes different from my 2 blades, and they 3 blade cut won't heal on a superficial hit resulting in high infection rates. Same goes for 4 blade etc. Again just my personal reasons I prefer a 2 blade.
@@SamkoTradBow This is why my 3 blade a knock off of one type of Muzzy or Maifeld 100 grain with the point before the blade, EQI 100 grain in the Z design is 1 inch long from side to side, being that I do not want the really big cuts to try and limit problems wounding an animal with the 3 blade hence a small blade. When I am ready to hunt in the next few years. Also, the I could just have the tip part of these broadheads only into the foam in my back quiver to really keep the arrows in the quiver. Bow side quivers these tend to for me get in the way when shooting since I am only 5 foot 2 inch so a 30 inch arrow will be closer to the ground with a 1 to 1&1/2 inch shorter arm span than a person my size should have with a boys L or kids XL to adult XS to women's S in hand size so more of my arm is going to be in the way of the arrow the other people who might have just the wrist or the lower arm where as I end up with the arrows almost up to my elbow on most of the 5--6 arrow quivers thus needing a 4 or 3 and less then 6 arrows is not what I am using when I am hunting. Then hip quivers I often with the use on a belt hunting style end up with the arrows feather/fletching either in my armpit or to either side. Trying a smaller able to for my size to use for hunting swivel type clip on hip quiver ended up too far to horizontal that the arrows spilled out before ever moving that a hip quiver is not going to work, had to return a birthday gift.
I agree 100 percent! I've looked everywhere but only Abowyer makes 1.25" and 1.50" single bevel broadheads. I'm personally looking for a 200 grain 1.50" single bevel, 200 grains tunes best out of my 41# longbow. I've used 200 gr Grizzly SB this season and hate the blood trails of this smaller cutting head. Lost an animal due to a poor high hit, really wished I had a huge cutting head on. I may even go to Simmons because of their wide cut, got to make a change for sure. Can't believe the broadhead companies have missed this big void in the BH market.
Only deer I ever lost were because of mechanicals (shot a compound for one season) I immediately went back to my 45lb recurves with 3 to ones. We all have what works for us individually. I love heavy narrow heads, for me they are perfect. Perfect arrow tuning high FOC is what makes all the difference to me. After 45 years I have no need to change a perfect recipe for me. It all comes down to confidence in my gear, at this point strapping on a wide head would have me second guessing, I am confident with what I have because it works for me. 100's of kills with 7/8 and 1 1/8 heads. Bottom line is like I said we all do what works for us individually. P.S. the 1 1/8 is "standard" because of minimum cutting diameter laws, and also the narrower the head the easier it is to tune, thats why the market got flooded with those junk mechanicals because of the tuning issues with standard 2 an 3 blade heads. The market revolves around compounds, not enough trad archers for the corporate profiteering guy's to care about.
Yep find what works best for your set up. And now with wide cut single bevels available I'm a happy guy rather than be8ng stuck with what industry standards tell me I should shoot
@@SamkoTradBow Yep I do not know why but in the closed blade style like the 2 blade that Jason likes but the skinny 1&1/8th to 1&1/6th style that are single bevel they now have 3 blade broadheads in both the screw in head and the glue on type from some companies.
iron will is the only one I know if currently. unless you go with glue on and use an adapter. then you can add 3 heads from abowyer. But a new company is just about to launch in a few weeks or so that will fit that bill perfectly. I can not say anything more yet. But its about to go public soon. Amazing head. I have shot 3 of thier protoypes and love them. Even killed a doe with one last year. awesome heads.
most the studies I have saw give the 3 to 1 ratio without a width. I think its the angle of the blade that cause poor penetration. those mechs have a severe angle that saps the power right out of an arrow. 3 to 1 in my opinion will do fine in larger widths. good content .
Wider heads absolutely have some disadvantages. A wider head has an increased probability of hitting something major on a marginal hit. But it also has an increased probability of hitting dense bone on marginal hits as well. It “cuts both ways,” if you’ll pardon the pun. Wider heads also are more sensitive to variations in your release. I can shoot a Zwicky Eskimo or No Mercy head with much better consistency than a Delta. The difference is only 1/8”. But there is a difference in accuracy downrange.
Agreed I like wide heads they put animals down period. I shoot heavy bows and penetration is not a issue even with large heads, I try different heads for the knowledge of what works and what doesn't but big heads made with good metal kill, like you said even when things don't go perfect. I enjoy the passion you put in these videos man continue spreading the information you know. If you get a chance check out the single bevel battle axe head I don't think its your style but its a very large tuff single bevel that has put down lots of game for me.
Great video and information. Do you have a video of best shot placement on a Whitetail? This topic is so all over the place and everyone has an opinion, be nice to see your opinions on the topic.
Slight quartering away is my favorite angle. Shoot for arrow to exit the opposite shoulder on those quartering away shots. Not a fan of broadside shots as you have to hug tight ro the front leg and shoulder. I take broadside as its second best option. But much prefer quartering away. Check out ranchfairy on youtube. He has some great videos on the vital v and shot placement stuff I completely agree with.
This is why my brother uses 3 blade broadheads due to the fact most are 1&1/8 to 1&1/6 size also he likes 125 grain due to the options and his field points are 120--125 depending on the arrow as well as his small game 4 line blunt with tip in middle style judos are 120--125 as well. He has the idea of use same weight tip when shooting as well for hunting, same theory I use to make less work in getting the aiming down. Now this could be done on a 250 grain field tip by getting a 125 field tip then blunting the screw in tip and then get the 125 glue on tip, gluing onto the ~120 tip after grinding point down, counting the about 2--4 grains for the glue/epoxy as a factor depending on the type and amount of glue used if it was a pro strength superglue like the red bottle Loctite not the blue, a hot glue, or rubber cement glue/silicon aquarium glue or even epoxy with the last four being more to the 3--4 grain range.
What kind of adaptor did you use in your set up to convert the glue on style broadheads to screw on? Did you go with aluminum or steel? I love you videos by the way, being a less experienced hunter I appreciate you sharing your wisdom. Thank you!
I use all different size and weight adapters. What ever weight gets me to my 250 head weight. Most commonly I use the 48 grain aluminum and the 100 grain steel.
I shot abowyer 1.50” this year out of my compound for the first time. I killed six deer with them this year. I’ve probably killed 100 deer with a bow in my life. I’ve never seen deer die as fast as they do with these heads. When I shoot the animal, I count to 5 and the animal is dead. I don’t understand exactly how but on all 6 animals same results. They’re incredible.
I wish I could shoot a 57 pounds bow. But people said that if I shoot a 57 pounds bow my maximum draw weight must be at least 75-80 lbs. Is this true? what is your maximum draw weight?
That is 100% pure false information they gave you. Nobody knows or has a a max weight. Example a person that is new to shooting a trad bow might only be able to pull 50 pounds 1 time. But after he shoots for a week o2 he can pull 50 pounds 50 times in a row and then his max for 1 pull is now 75 pounds. 95% of 20-40 year old males could pull 100 pounds and shoot 12 arrows in a row out of it with a few weeks of practice and increased weight. I currently shoot 57 pounds and bet my max would be around 75 right now. But I used to shoot 81 pounds and bet my max would of been 110 then because my muscles were acclimated to heavier weight then. Hope all that makes sense.
I contacted VPA asking if they where going to make a 1.5" 2 blade after they introduced their 1.5" 3 blade and was told they didn't have plans for one. Make no sense to me. They have 1.125, 1.25 and 1.5" 3 blade offerings but only 1.125" and 1.25" 2 blade offerings with the 1.25" being a double bevel only.
Yep makes no sense. Honestly I'm half tempted to make my own company and just offer 2 glue on heads. 1.25 and 1.5 both 2.5 long single bevels. Most of these vroadhead companies no nothing about or even remotely care about traditional bowhunters, we are too small of a group for thier bean counters.
Great video! I agree with your thoughts I feel like I have had the same results which is why I bought a bunch of heads from a company that went out of business that made a broadhead that is 1 5/16” wide. My wife shoots them as well out of a 40# longbow and has had no problems with killing deer and some big hogs with them. And now I’m running low on those heads and have had the same problem as you finding one with the cutting diameter I want, as you said all are 1 1/8”. I think you have convinced me to get some abowyers when the time comes but a couple other companies would be the simmon sharks and ace broadheads I have no experience with those but they make a wider broadhead not a SB but they have wider cutter diameter options and I have friends that love both those heads. I think after your video I maybe leaning towards the abowyers. Any experience with the other broad heads I mentioned?
Have shot and love ace, zwickey, and love them. But I want single bevel. And it's time companies got on the ball and made some good 1.25-1.5 x 2.5 simple powerfully single bevels
@@SamkoTradBow thanks haha I was way off , I assumed a black bear skull would be larger… did you clean it up yourself?? I do shark jaws and am planning on doing the skull of whatever I take with my bow first even if its a small sow I want the trophy .
Yep vandieman is a good company and glad to see them going a little wider. So tired od all these companies building the exact same head as the next guy. So many 1 1/8 heads on the market that are all basically the same. 1.25-1.5 is my favorite zone
if you want more cut why dont you use a 3 blade head like a snuffer? you get the 1 1/16" plus a whole nother blade of cut which adds up to a lot more than than your 1 1/4" 2 blade. and it will punch a hole rather than make a slit.
It's all personal preference. 3 blade heads don't git in my quiver well with my quiver being modified to a 6 arrow, 3 blades have much more resistance and less penetration, and 3 blades are a pain to sharpen. I much prefer a wide 2 blade.
If you really want these then my first bet would be to hit up some of the chinese manufacturers. They still make their manchu style broadheads wich range from 200 to 340gr, for some reason they still sell the vast majority of them including the ones not for animals. If there's money to be made they'll definatly listen. That being said. Been looking pretty much in ever bow/hunting store in europe here and it's pretty much as you say. Single bevel's are no dice, those would need to get imported from the USA at least or custom made in china. double bevel i've found german kinetics who's broadheads go all the way up to 1 7/8 so not all hope is lost at least. I'm currently in my "i want one of each" phase i guess & longbow is top of the list and get a hunters license in the future (mainly because club targets can't handle manchu bows).
I think the advantage of having better penetration and 2 holes out weighs the additional cutting surface from a wider head.there are pluses and minuses for both. So I know you were a big proponent of tuffhead broadheads. So does this mean you are no longer using them because I believe most of them are 1 1/8 in
I have never shot a 1 1/8 head and never would. The only tuffhead I shot was a prototype 1.5 wide tuffhead. He then scrapped the idea. I het entry and exit holes 95% of the time. So again no advantage to a narrow head for me. 1.25-1.5 all day everyday. Again my opinion. I will not shoot narrower. Period. This is based on hundreds of blood trails and recoveries I've been on. It's my opinion
Simmons Sharks - we average 10 big game animals a year - we are happy blood trail bowhunters - we don’t lose animals. Can’t remember the last time. Just our urban unit deer is around 60 deer in just 11 years with 100% recovery. Been shooting Sharks since 98. Journeyman and Magnus 4 blades mid 80s till 98. Bear Razorheads early 70s till mid 80s. The performance of Sharks is amazing. We mostly hear or see our deer and hogs go down. I’ve been approached/ offered to be sponsored by Broadhead companies. I politely decline. I buy and shoot Sharks without hesitation no contest.
Summons makes amazing heads. But they don't make a 1.5 wide I could make 250 grain head out of. Meaning a 250 grain screw in or a glue on that I can mount on steel adapter to get 250 grain head weight. The world needs more 1.25-1.5 options and also needs more glue on heads! But simmons are great heads!
Simmons are great heads. I want single bevel and a 250 Wright or a glue on that I can make 250. Simmons doesn't offer me those options yet. Maybe they will someday hopefully
I agree for deer maybe , but in Alaska I'm after bears and moose ..... so I'm more interested in heavy arrows and deep penetration. Also no , i dont think there is much difference in 1.125 and 1.250 heads .... either way , cut wise or penetration? We are only talking... 1/16th of a inch on each side , not enough to make any difference either way . With deer size game i could understand maybe a 1.5 inch head ...... but I'll take a heavy arrow with a 3to1 on large game . Just my opinion , nothing wrong with using large diameter cutting heads and i think they have a place........ it's just not on the end of my arrow lol I personally like a 60-65# longbow, 300gr meathead and Douglas Fir or bamboo arrow with total of 750gr.
Yep and there are alot of people like you that want the narrow heads. Fortunately you guys have alot of them to choose from. But there are just as many of us if not more of us that want wider heads and should not be this hard to find them.
@@SamkoTradBow completely agree !! ...... maybe get you some good steel and build some trade points ? I have done that before . If your not good with heat treating , you can use good saw blades and keep them kool while cutting out . I live in Alaska so I'm used to never finding what i want or need ha!ha!
Could be for some. But for many tuning a 1.5 head is very easy and no flight issues at all even with minimal feathers. I have videos where I shoot a 1.5 wide solid magnus head on a bar shaft at 20 yards 3 time and center punch the target all 3 times. Many many many of us want a 1.25-1.5 x 2.5 head in single bevel. We will handle the flight no problem.
Great heads! But lack heavier weights or glue on options or single bevel options I'm looking for. But amazing heads and love how simmons is dedicated to wide heads!!
Summons makes amazing heads. But they don't make a 1.5 wide I could make 250 grain head out of. Meaning a 250 grain screw in or a glue on that I can mount on steel adapter to get 250 grain head weight. The world needs more 1.25-1.5 options and also needs more glue on heads! But simmons are great heads!
@@SamkoTradBow It shows the width is 2 1/16 @ 165 grain. they only have one glue on now but they used to have mostly glue on. Wouldn't the wider blade be a better choice?
All advantages except penetration. So a balance is needed. A 4 inch wide 1 inch long head is obviously less effective than a 1 inch 3:1 head. However, I think the answer is in between somewhere. Unless your going to do Cape buffalo or other thick skinned African dangerous game. Then you need that 3:1 for deep penetration
It's simple physics. A 1.5 wide by 2.5 long single bevel head with traditional triangle shape is very very efficient and capable and not hard to make. Wish these conapies would get on it instead of putting out weird shapes, dumb names and marketing bs.
I understand what you're getting at, wider Cuts make bigger holes but let's not forget doctor Ashby's 3:1 ratio which gives us to penetration that we want. If you're 1 1/2" head where to hold to the 3:1 ratio it would be 4 1/2" inches long... come on buddy
I dont want 3:1. I could care less about 3:1. I blow thru everything I shoot 90% of the time. And the other 10% I still have amazing blood trails. 3:1 is highly over rates in my opinion
Actually it's not. While we try hard to not have gut shots happen, they are 100% lethal and the animals don't go far and have a very very high recovery rate when you understand when and how to to go find them. I bet gut shot recovery is equal to broadside recovery by people that know the proper steps to finding gut shot animals.
I don't have much experience in killing things with bow and arrow (maybe 30 deer). Thank you for giving your definitive opinion on this. Too many archers with extensive experience pussyfoot around and don't give less experienced people their honest take on a subject. I talked to an archery shop owner in Rochester, Minnesota and asked him about proper arrow weights for hunting - he gave me a definitive answer and I appreciated it. Thanks again, Sir.
There often are many great ways to achieve the same result. My thoughts on the wide heads is my preference. But the biggest problem is the broadhead manufacturers don't care about us. They only care about thier stupid 1 and 1/8 standard. So few make a wider cut head. And it's a shame as many of us want one. We have shot wide heads for 30 years. And every uear there are less and less wide heads available and a bunch of companies making the same dang 1 and 1/8 head as every other company.
16 min in. Some of the best insight I have heard to date regarding arrow penetration. Jason you are a great source for this stuff. Really appreciate your videos.
Thank you. Glad you enjoyed the video!
WELL SAID!!!!!!!!!!! 3:50 PERFECTLY STATED!!
I don't shot trad but I agree 1000%! I don't like little heads either. Nope, no thanks. I had to use a xbow this past year and I got a nice doe with a single bevel head (has a bleeder too) 1 3/16" cut (I'd prefer larger, but hey, it worked damn well), and to say that I was impressed would be an understatement. I had lung chunks coming out when I gutted her. Not like a shredded lung, but there were definite pieces coming out. It was a bit of a high hit but I had blood right off and by the time she dropped (I heard her) it was pouring out. I am a single bevel fanboy now! All somebody has to do is shoot a foam target with one and you can see the "S" cut and you can feel the arrow rotating when you pull it out. Seeing it here on a video and seeing it in person are two different things.
Shoulder hits. All of my hits have been on far side hits (exit side) on deer that were close, 10 yards or so. One was a complete pass through (Magnus Stinger), one made it half way through (Muzzy 3 blade - buck) and one hit the blade and stopped (Doe, 1/4 ing pretty hard). I hit MAJOR vessels on that one and she bled like she was hit with a slug. Which made the blood trail very easy LOL My point is, even at close range, with a compound, I only had one out of 3 shoulder hits get exits. And the one that I did get it with is an aggressive cam "speed" bow. Which proves your "should point" perfectly.
When I was watching I also thought of all the people I have seen saying how much of a better blood trail they got with a head from a certain maker that was 1 1/4" vs their smaller cut, longer profile head.. Makes sense, doesn't it?
Great video as always!!
Greatly appreciate this comment and example. Agree 100%. Hopefully some broadhead makers watch this and get it done! No reason not too!
I agree 1000% with you Jason! Slam dunk!!!! Been shooting Magnus 1's for 31 years. Come on folks make us some wide glue ons period. Thanks Jason you seem like a real good man. Keep up the great videos
Thanks! Hopefully some of them listen to us and make them
By the way that magnus 1 you shootnis my all time favorite head ever made!!! Love them!
My journey ended with me using vpa three blade 200 grains... Love em, my first time using a three blade and I won't go back to a two blade, I swear the thing penetrates better than my previous two blades, but with a better hole.
Never been a fan of 3 or 4 blades personally. Nothing wrong with them. But I prefer 2 blades. Very happy that you found heads that give you the confidence and work great for you. I hear vpa makes fantastic heads!
Why don’t you like four blades?
I’m only on this traditional journey for 12 years, but I’ve used the tuffheads (1-1/8”) since about 10 years ago. I’ve never had a problem with blood trails and only had one non-recovery. I appreciate and understand what you’re saying, but I have had nothing but good luck with these heads. Great info and insight, as always, though!!
Tuff heads are amazing heads! And lots of animals far each year to 1 and 1/8. But I much prefer a wider head, better blood trails and quicker recoveries (much faster blood loss from bigger hole). Definitely nothing wrong with narrow heads and they sure do work great. But for me and my experience wider is better. All personal preference and we can only draw our thoughts form our own experiences. Mine tell me to stay with wide. But again just my preference.
@@SamkoTradBow no doubt! I actually have a set of Abowyer 1-5/16” 300 grain heads in my archery box right now. Been there for a couple years. Think I’ll give them a shot next year.
@@whilomforge3402 you will love them. Abowyer makes amazing heads.
Hi Jason. Love the channel. I climbed to cover 10feet maybe hidden perfect using a grizzly 125 g with 125 g adapter single bevel 1/1/8. Head. Straight through a doe zero blood upsetting didn’t find her just bought ace 165 g 1/5/16. Wide double bevel 2/3/4 long looking forward to this broadhead your testing I try to get to 250 g. Keep up the good work.
Yep the 1 and 1/8 heads have thier fans. And many people really like them. Personally I won't shoot anything under a 1.25 and prefer 1.5. With out knowledge or foc, arrow tuning etc there is no reason to shoot a 1 and 1/8. This will pizs off alot of people but I do believe if 1.25 was the standard way less animals would be lost. I can not remeber the last time I lost an animal that was hit in the body. And I've made some bad hits. But a 1.5 broadhead saved the day on many of them.
Also that ace is an amazing broadhead! Absolutely amazing by a fantastic company. You will love the results. They are a softer temper so light pressure when sharpening them gets the wicked sharp.
Thanx for the knowledge man
We need to limit our shots to ethical shots - totally agree. I shoot compound at 70lbs - so should have even more penetration and be able to use a wider head. My question is - how well does the 11/2 inch wide head shoot compared to the field point? Does the wider blades not cause more planing and poorer accuracy? Looking at buying 150 or 200 grain single bevel VPA - but all 11/8 wide.
3 factors contribute to broadhead planning. 1 is speed. Faster the arrow the more wind planing can happen. That's why we love heavy arrows. They are not fast but hit like a semi truck. 2 is arrow weight up front. Weight leads and if you have high foc the weight leads and over powers the planning. 3 is arrow tune. With good arrow flight the arrow recovers and flies straight with much less chance of planing. So setting up for wide heads is usually required rather than just slapping a wide head on any arrow. But the benefits are well worth it in my opinion
I totally agree with your reasoning on this topic , and I too would love to get some 1 1/4 " or 1 1/2 " single bevel heads , In fact I just text messaged a company and asked that very same question , I hope they are listening and reading the comments on your channel . I have a long draw of 31" , so even if i'm using a 40 # bow @ 28 " i'm in the low mid 50"s on the poundage , thanks for bringing up this argument on Broadhead diameter , hopefully some of these companies will do the right thing!
I hope so too! Let me know if you hear back from them!
The other problem is that brands are making these 2 blade heads for people using compound/lever bows or are going the thin skinny route for traditional because the numbers are growing of people that want to try and hunt with a full wood pre WWII but after WWI style flat limb longbow with the full pre WWII but after WWI Setup. The Pre WWII but after setup for hunting had Broadheads that were long and skinny as they thought that using a thin head helped aid in passing through the Deer, Turkey, or Wild Boar/Wild Hog. You see a number of pictures pre WWII of Howard Hill using bows with really long skinny heads for big game but was one of the lesser group using heads of this size until his death in 1973 , as a few brands like Bear or Zwikky brand and a few others still make that same style today or have started to begin making them again starting in the 2000's.
This is why I plan to use a 3 blade that is like an old discontinued model of 3 blade by Wasp archery at 100 grains that is in the Muzzy MX-3/MX-4 100 grain style of shape. This blade is a Chinese generic design for my big game shots. Now for small game the style I plan to use is a fully fixed small 3 blade 100 in same style, carrying one arrow so 7 with me for hunting that could in a pinch be used for big game as it is also above the minimum 75 grains weight for archery hunting in South Dakota that only other rules are they must be 2 blade (or may still 3 for spring turkey?) and have a double bevel for hunting. No size limit other then the people enforcing the rules consider 1/3 inch or less in total a barb not a broadhead and this small game I have is ~ 2/3 an inch.
Yep the 3:1 ratio heads are becoming very popular again
@@SamkoTradBow Why do that? I mean the head is just going to have an issue with leaving a blood trail due to the small holes in the animal, plus a few states like Ohio some are so skinny under 1 & 1/16 or inches at 1 inch wide at base they are not legal.
To me the 3:1 style in a double blade seems to only make sense if you have a compound or a lever bow that can use the long head cutting insides well due to the FPS and are wanting the max durability of a solid broadhead when going 2 blade. Using the 3:1 solid 2 blade is something that few compound guys do, as more go with the open hole type wide screw in broadheads at 125--150 grains if they even use a 2 blade not a 3 or 4 in any style often 125 grains or under despite 150 grains becoming more common. If not some type of fixed head, the compound/lever bow guys are going mechanical if legal to hunt with in the state they live in.
@@caseysmith544 sorry muss understood your last comment. Thought you were talking about 3:1 style heads for compounds.
@@SamkoTradBow Yes they are for 3:1 thin 2 blade solid heads are best or Compounds but most of the people are using them for hunting with a flat limb longbow/mostly or a few recurve guys. Who have no need to be using such a device, they are being sold on 3 Rivers with most of the reviews by flat limbed longbow guys who want to hunt like Howard Hill did using skinny broadheads as to what most of what was out at the time pre WWII. Also if using an English longbow hunting but can't use a thin barbed Medieval/Saxson point to hunt in most of the states in USA and Provinces in Canada nor can they use the other period hunting points as they do not qualify correctly to modern rules as a broadhead but rather a diamond shape field point with only one design of a pyramidal Medieval/Saxson longbow broadhead lightly modified with bevels to count as a modern broadhead and then in some states they do no meet the width total blade width requirement for hunting.
Agree 100% with you on this. I'm shooting the Abowyer bone head large and the Simmons Treeshark with Uukha 43# limbs on my ILF setup this year. Was worried about penetration shooting such lite poundage but shot 5 with this setup and complete pass thru on all of them. I had to drop draw weight this year from 60# to a 43# ILF setup do to having pins put in draw hand. Absolutely love the bigger heads and dont see the advantages of the smaller heads.
Congrats on the 5 deer and the determination to make the hunting season work even with a busted up hand! Well done! Hopefully brpadhead companies listen to us and hopefully abowyer refills the inventory soon!
Is it a marketing tendency? A narrower broadhead flies more like a field point, and penetrates farther due to less resistance and wins those two considerations.... pleases the average buyer with average bow tune?
Not sure the reason. But there are thousands of us that have no problem tuning a bow, shoot enough weight to not care about extra penetration as we blow through most stuff regardless and we definitely can make any broadhead flies like our field tips. Those in this group want an 1.25-1.5 wide head about 2.5 inches long!
You've given me much to think over. Thank you.
Glad you enjoyed it
It's just makes sense
but, but, but.......it's all about shot placement if you listen to all the internet professional hunters! You know, those that never kill anything but paper and foam and have no understanding of all the factors that come into play in a real hunting scenario. Foam doesn't move and there are no twigs or limbs in your backyard. Forget the nerves and adrenaline that come into a hunting situation. I agree Jason, wide is where it is at!!!
Excellent points that rarely get brought up. And I do agree. Seems like the majority of people that kill alot of animals have come to the very same conclusion that wider recovers more animals. Look at your normal year for example. You kill more animals in a year than most people kill in 5 years. Same here. I've killed 10 big game animals this year already and hoping for a few more pigs before heading home. Doing that over some years creates a big real world test pool vs the guy who kills 2 deer a year. For me and my collected real world data. 1.25-1.5 x 2.5 long is the ultimate broadhead!
It is true shot placement keep em razor sharp
@@danielconner3263 shot placement should be assumed! Wider heads CAN and DO help when Murphy shows up.
What do you think of the Simmons SHARK broadheads
Never shot them but know many that do. Amazing heads!
I spent years trying one head after another and I finally stopped on the Maasai broadheads. They are single bevel cut on contact but only 11/8. I have harvested hogs, deer, and elk without any disappointment. For the last decade they are all I have shot. The only issue has been the cost. At $30+ per head it isn't cost effective for many. I would still like a wider head so I will be trying some of these you are talking about if I can get my hands on some
Maasai is a great head. Wish they made it in a 1.25 or 1.5. That's the whole point of this video. So many great heads out there yet all for some stupid reason only make them 1 and 1/8!
@@SamkoTradBow I considered the 2in silver flame but it is a duel bevel and I am unwilling to give up the single bevel
@@peterweikel7123 yep I agree. I love the single bevels too
Will Aboyer also offer Screw In heads?
They do!
Have you seen the new Simmons Great White?
Yep. Simmons makes awesome heads. But not quite what I'm looking for or thr weight I need. But love how simmons is dedicated to wide heads!
The only way to test would be a side by side test but in theory a Smaller head would offer better penetration for pass through shots and less deflection if it hits a bone. But in reality unlike handguns you don’t use penetration to kill with a bow you use blood loss by laceration.
Yep and many tests out there to study. But from my own experience and test pool of over 150 big game animals I will keep shooting wide heads. I can count on 3 fingers how many times I wished I had a narrower broadhead
I wish more companies would make glue on broadheads that are available in the store. My new long bow will be here next week. 62 at 28 but I pull 26,it’s a bighorn ram hunter I’m ready to build some magnum arrows. Im probably going aluminum shafts
Congrats on the new bow. I agree more glue on heads on a single bevel 1.25-1.5 wide is definitely needed
Alien Archery makes some two blade single bevels in 1 1/4 and 1 1/2 cuts. They are an Australian company, I think there are several Aussie companies that make old school broad heads like your talking about.
Thanks. I ha e looked at thier heads before. Not really a fan of the shapes and they don't offer heavier weights like most of us want. I'm my opinion too many companies are trying to reinvent the wheel. Just make a 1.5 wide by 2.5 long triangular head with a single bevel and sell thousands of them! Not that complicated.
Dang. All the wide broadheads are gone haha. What do you think of the Helix 2-Blade Screw-In Broadheads?
Yep hard to find a wide head anymore. Don't know anything about the helix. Will have to check it out
seriously considering strapping an abowyer 1.5" on to my crossbow, 580gr bolt, and lettin it eat. I'm thinking wrecking machine.
Sure would be as long as it flies well. Never shot a crossbow so not sure how a big wide head would work on a bolt
First heads I trekked to the woods 54 years ago were Ben Pearson I believe. They were HUGE!
Replying to self. Found them on EBAY and it appears they were 1.5". So..just wondering..a 3 blade gives you 1.875" of cutting edge. Different reasoning applies?
Loved the old deadheads! I'm not a fan of 3 blades. They are great heads but for me the 3rd blade requires more energy, they are harder to sharpen, the don't fit in my quiver with out cutting new holes different from my 2 blades, and they 3 blade cut won't heal on a superficial hit resulting in high infection rates. Same goes for 4 blade etc. Again just my personal reasons I prefer a 2 blade.
@@SamkoTradBow This is why my 3 blade a knock off of one type of Muzzy or Maifeld 100 grain with the point before the blade, EQI 100 grain in the Z design is 1 inch long from side to side, being that I do not want the really big cuts to try and limit problems wounding an animal with the 3 blade hence a small blade. When I am ready to hunt in the next few years.
Also, the I could just have the tip part of these broadheads only into the foam in my back quiver to really keep the arrows in the quiver. Bow side quivers these tend to for me get in the way when shooting since I am only 5 foot 2 inch so a 30 inch arrow will be closer to the ground with a 1 to 1&1/2 inch shorter arm span than a person my size should have with a boys L or kids XL to adult XS to women's S in hand size so more of my arm is going to be in the way of the arrow the other people who might have just the wrist or the lower arm where as I end up with the arrows almost up to my elbow on most of the 5--6 arrow quivers thus needing a 4 or 3 and less then 6 arrows is not what I am using when I am hunting. Then hip quivers I often with the use on a belt hunting style end up with the arrows feather/fletching either in my armpit or to either side. Trying a smaller able to for my size to use for hunting swivel type clip on hip quiver ended up too far to horizontal that the arrows spilled out before ever moving that a hip quiver is not going to work, had to return a birthday gift.
I agree 100 percent! I've looked everywhere but only Abowyer makes 1.25" and 1.50" single bevel broadheads. I'm personally looking for a 200 grain 1.50" single bevel, 200 grains tunes best out of my 41# longbow. I've used 200 gr Grizzly SB this season and hate the blood trails of this smaller cutting head. Lost an animal due to a poor high hit, really wished I had a huge cutting head on. I may even go to Simmons because of their wide cut, got to make a change for sure. Can't believe the broadhead companies have missed this big void in the BH market.
A new company is going live this spring and has exactly what you are looking for coming this spring. I shot the prototype this winter and loved it.
@@SamkoTradBow what is the company name?
@@beforethehunt can't say yet as they are not ready to go public. They are waiting for sharpening jigs to finish being made then the launch
Only deer I ever lost were because of mechanicals (shot a compound for one season) I immediately went back to my 45lb recurves with 3 to ones. We all have what works for us individually. I love heavy narrow heads, for me they are perfect. Perfect arrow tuning high FOC is what makes all the difference to me. After 45 years I have no need to change a perfect recipe for me. It all comes down to confidence in my gear, at this point
strapping on a wide head would have me second guessing, I am confident with what I have because it works for me. 100's of kills with 7/8 and 1 1/8 heads. Bottom line is like I said we all do what works for us individually. P.S. the 1 1/8 is "standard" because of minimum cutting diameter laws, and also the narrower the head the easier it is to tune, thats why the market got flooded with those junk mechanicals because of the tuning issues with standard 2 an 3 blade heads. The market revolves around compounds, not enough trad archers for the corporate profiteering guy's to care about.
Yep find what works best for your set up. And now with wide cut single bevels available I'm a happy guy rather than be8ng stuck with what industry standards tell me I should shoot
Great commen sense Jason, awesome food for thought
Thanks. Hopefully companies listen and make some wide heads for us
I agree with you. I would guess the wider head could cause planing and forces manufacturers to use tighter tolerance to prevent that.
Not sure why broadhead companies don't make wide heads now but I sure wish they would get on it!
@@SamkoTradBow Yep I do not know why but in the closed blade style like the 2 blade that Jason likes but the skinny 1&1/8th to 1&1/6th style that are single bevel they now have 3 blade broadheads in both the screw in head and the glue on type from some companies.
What are some screw in 1 3/8-1 1/2 inch single bevels??
iron will is the only one I know if currently. unless you go with glue on and use an adapter. then you can add 3 heads from abowyer. But a new company is just about to launch in a few weeks or so that will fit that bill perfectly. I can not say anything more yet. But its about to go public soon. Amazing head. I have shot 3 of thier protoypes and love them. Even killed a doe with one last year. awesome heads.
@@SamkoTradBow iron will only has a 1 1/16 inch cut single bevel
@@wesstewart9264 thought they had a wide cut model that was close to 1.5
@@SamkoTradBow They have a 1 3/8 double bevel. I even emailed them before to see if they would make one
I have evolved to 3” mechanical Swhackers. . Love them.
VERY WELL said Jason. Thanks.
Thanks. Hopefully companies are listening and stwp up
Where can I buy a prototype 1 1/2” wide 2 blade single or double bevel? Please message me!
Only ones available right now are simmons boradheads.
The new company is not ready ro go public yet. They are waiting for the sharpening jigs to be milled out and then the will start production
most the studies I have saw give the 3 to 1 ratio without a width. I think its the angle of the blade that cause poor penetration. those mechs have a severe angle that saps the power right out of an arrow. 3 to 1 in my opinion will do fine in larger widths. good content .
agree 100% the angle of the head matters and the cutting width matters.
This was like watching Talladega Nights where Ricky Bobby thinks it’s okay because he said “With all due respect” at the end. Lol
For the broadhead companies the read these comments I agree with Jason on this. More wide 250 grain options needed.
Thank you. Hope they listen. There is a much bigger world out there than the 1 1/8th crowd
@@SamkoTradBow I would have to agree the heavy "traditional" arrows we shoot will steer a big broadheads.
I’m shooting grizzly glue on 200 grain single bevel on a GT 500 shaft. Shoots great off my 45 lb Toelke LB
Grizzly makes great heads! Ask them to make a 1.25-1.5 version next time you talk to them. No reason they can't, no reason they shouldnt!
Great video!!!! Thx for all ya do….
Thanks
Wider heads absolutely have some disadvantages. A wider head has an increased probability of hitting something major on a marginal hit. But it also has an increased probability of hitting dense bone on marginal hits as well. It “cuts both ways,” if you’ll pardon the pun. Wider heads also are more sensitive to variations in your release. I can shoot a Zwicky Eskimo or No Mercy head with much better consistency than a Delta. The difference is only 1/8”. But there is a difference in accuracy downrange.
Agreed I like wide heads they put animals down period. I shoot heavy bows and penetration is not a issue even with large heads, I try different heads for the knowledge of what works and what doesn't but big heads made with good metal kill, like you said even when things don't go perfect. I enjoy the passion you put in these videos man continue spreading the information you know. If you get a chance check out the single bevel battle axe head I don't think its your style but its a very large tuff single bevel that has put down lots of game for me.
Will check that head out. Glad the big heads work great for you as well. Hopefully a company steps up and gets a head like this done.
Great video and information. Do you have a video of best shot placement on a Whitetail? This topic is so all over the place and everyone has an opinion, be nice to see your opinions on the topic.
Slight quartering away is my favorite angle. Shoot for arrow to exit the opposite shoulder on those quartering away shots. Not a fan of broadside shots as you have to hug tight ro the front leg and shoulder. I take broadside as its second best option. But much prefer quartering away. Check out ranchfairy on youtube. He has some great videos on the vital v and shot placement stuff I completely agree with.
This is why my brother uses 3 blade broadheads due to the fact most are 1&1/8 to 1&1/6 size also he likes 125 grain due to the options and his field points are 120--125 depending on the arrow as well as his small game 4 line blunt with tip in middle style judos are 120--125 as well. He has the idea of use same weight tip when shooting as well for hunting, same theory I use to make less work in getting the aiming down.
Now this could be done on a 250 grain field tip by getting a 125 field tip then blunting the screw in tip and then get the 125 glue on tip, gluing onto the ~120 tip after grinding point down, counting the about 2--4 grains for the glue/epoxy as a factor depending on the type and amount of glue used if it was a pro strength superglue like the red bottle Loctite not the blue, a hot glue, or rubber cement glue/silicon aquarium glue or even epoxy with the last four being more to the 3--4 grain range.
Great discussion.
Thanks. I wish these companies would hear us!
Where can I find these wide broadheads to purchase?
Very hard to find any! That is the reason for the video. To tell people to tell broadhead companies to make winder cut broadheads!
What kind of adaptor did you use in your set up to convert the glue on style broadheads to screw on? Did you go with aluminum or steel? I love you videos by the way, being a less experienced hunter I appreciate you sharing your wisdom. Thank you!
I use all different size and weight adapters. What ever weight gets me to my 250 head weight. Most commonly I use the 48 grain aluminum and the 100 grain steel.
I shot abowyer 1.50” this year out of my compound for the first time. I killed six deer with them this year. I’ve probably killed 100 deer with a bow in my life. I’ve never seen deer die as fast as they do with these heads. When I shoot the animal, I count to 5 and the animal is dead. I don’t understand exactly how but on all 6 animals same results. They’re incredible.
Well said and 100% agree. It's my favorite head and for the same reasons. Now we need more companies to make some similar.
I wish I could shoot a 57 pounds bow.
But people said that if I shoot a 57 pounds bow my maximum draw weight must be at least 75-80 lbs.
Is this true?
what is your maximum draw weight?
That is 100% pure false information they gave you. Nobody knows or has a a max weight. Example a person that is new to shooting a trad bow might only be able to pull 50 pounds 1 time. But after he shoots for a week o2 he can pull 50 pounds 50 times in a row and then his max for 1 pull is now 75 pounds. 95% of 20-40 year old males could pull 100 pounds and shoot 12 arrows in a row out of it with a few weeks of practice and increased weight. I currently shoot 57 pounds and bet my max would be around 75 right now. But I used to shoot 81 pounds and bet my max would of been 110 then because my muscles were acclimated to heavier weight then. Hope all that makes sense.
I contacted VPA asking if they where going to make a 1.5" 2 blade after they introduced their 1.5" 3 blade and was told they didn't have plans for one. Make no sense to me. They have 1.125, 1.25 and 1.5" 3 blade offerings but only 1.125" and 1.25" 2 blade offerings with the 1.25" being a double bevel only.
Yep makes no sense. Honestly I'm half tempted to make my own company and just offer 2 glue on heads. 1.25 and 1.5 both 2.5 long single bevels. Most of these vroadhead companies no nothing about or even remotely care about traditional bowhunters, we are too small of a group for thier bean counters.
@@SamkoTradBow Best of luck if you choose that route.
You are so right. Thank you.
Thanks! I Wish these broadhead companies would listen to me!
Great video! I agree with your thoughts I feel like I have had the same results which is why I bought a bunch of heads from a company that went out of business that made a broadhead that is 1 5/16” wide. My wife shoots them as well out of a 40# longbow and has had no problems with killing deer and some big hogs with them. And now I’m running low on those heads and have had the same problem as you finding one with the cutting diameter I want, as you said all are 1 1/8”. I think you have convinced me to get some abowyers when the time comes but a couple other companies would be the simmon sharks and ace broadheads I have no experience with those but they make a wider broadhead not a SB but they have wider cutter diameter options and I have friends that love both those heads. I think after your video I maybe leaning towards the abowyers. Any experience with the other broad heads I mentioned?
Have shot and love ace, zwickey, and love them. But I want single bevel. And it's time companies got on the ball and made some good 1.25-1.5 x 2.5 simple powerfully single bevels
I agree thanks for the response. You have great videos and content, keep ‘‘em coming!
@@calebballard7408 thank you. Greatly appreciated
I shot the ace standard and bent the tip on the shoulder. Killed the deer but definitely quit using them.
Jason is that a mountain lion skull behind you with the deer…. I have no idea what it is !!!
black bear skull
@@SamkoTradBow thanks haha I was way off , I assumed a black bear skull would be larger… did you clean it up yourself?? I do shark jaws and am planning on doing the skull of whatever I take with my bow first even if its a small sow I want the trophy .
A great video!
Thanks!
VanDieman makes a 225grain 1 1/4 single bevel, but, yes a screw on. Aussie company.
The little buck I got with one had a string of guts hanging out. No, I did not make a good shot, but the twist and s-cut seemed to be in effect!
Yep vandieman is a good company and glad to see them going a little wider. So tired od all these companies building the exact same head as the next guy. So many 1 1/8 heads on the market that are all basically the same. 1.25-1.5 is my favorite zone
Also Alien Archery making some 1 1/4 single bevel screw ins, also out of Australia. Must be something they get down under!
if you want more cut why dont you use a 3 blade head like a snuffer? you get the 1 1/16" plus a whole nother blade of cut which adds up to a lot more than than your 1 1/4" 2 blade. and it will punch a hole rather than make a slit.
It's all personal preference. 3 blade heads don't git in my quiver well with my quiver being modified to a 6 arrow, 3 blades have much more resistance and less penetration, and 3 blades are a pain to sharpen. I much prefer a wide 2 blade.
If you really want these then my first bet would be to hit up some of the chinese manufacturers. They still make their manchu style broadheads wich range from 200 to 340gr, for some reason they still sell the vast majority of them including the ones not for animals. If there's money to be made they'll definatly listen.
That being said.
Been looking pretty much in ever bow/hunting store in europe here and it's pretty much as you say. Single bevel's are no dice, those would need to get imported from the USA at least or custom made in china. double bevel i've found german kinetics who's broadheads go all the way up to 1 7/8 so not all hope is lost at least.
I'm currently in my "i want one of each" phase i guess & longbow is top of the list and get a hunters license in the future (mainly because club targets can't handle manchu bows).
Crazy how different things are over there when it comes to archery and bowhunting. Glad you are enjoying shooting and working towards your license!
I think the advantage of having better penetration and 2 holes out weighs the additional cutting surface from a wider head.there are pluses and minuses for both. So I know you were a big proponent of tuffhead broadheads. So does this mean you are no longer using them because I believe most of them are 1 1/8 in
I have never shot a 1 1/8 head and never would. The only tuffhead I shot was a prototype 1.5 wide tuffhead. He then scrapped the idea. I het entry and exit holes 95% of the time. So again no advantage to a narrow head for me. 1.25-1.5 all day everyday. Again my opinion. I will not shoot narrower. Period. This is based on hundreds of blood trails and recoveries I've been on. It's my opinion
Simmons Sharks - we average 10 big game animals a year - we are happy blood trail bowhunters - we don’t lose animals. Can’t remember the last time. Just our urban unit deer is around 60 deer in just 11 years with 100% recovery. Been shooting Sharks since 98. Journeyman and Magnus 4 blades mid 80s till 98. Bear Razorheads early 70s till mid 80s. The performance of Sharks is amazing. We mostly hear or see our deer and hogs go down. I’ve been approached/ offered to be sponsored by Broadhead companies. I politely decline. I buy and shoot Sharks without hesitation no contest.
Summons makes amazing heads. But they don't make a 1.5 wide I could make 250 grain head out of. Meaning a 250 grain screw in or a glue on that I can mount on steel adapter to get 250 grain head weight. The world needs more 1.25-1.5 options and also needs more glue on heads! But simmons are great heads!
@@SamkoTradBow excellent presentation Jason I hope someone listens and produces some wider heads.
@@corymattson6350 thatnsk. I sure hope so too!
You try the simmons sharks?
Simmons are great heads. I want single bevel and a 250 Wright or a glue on that I can make 250. Simmons doesn't offer me those options yet. Maybe they will someday hopefully
@@SamkoTradBow did you stop using the steel adapters
@@kevinemard5370 I still use the steel adapters. I use what ever I need to make a 250 grain head
@@SamkoTradBow i would like a 1,1/2" grizzly broadhead simular to the tuff head
@@kevinemard5370 agree 100% I'd buy dozens and dozens
I agree for deer maybe , but in Alaska I'm after bears and moose ..... so I'm more interested in heavy arrows and deep penetration.
Also no , i dont think there is much difference in 1.125 and 1.250 heads .... either way , cut wise or penetration? We are only talking... 1/16th of a inch on each side , not enough to make any difference either way .
With deer size game i could understand maybe a 1.5 inch head ...... but I'll take a heavy arrow with a 3to1 on large game . Just my opinion , nothing wrong with using large diameter cutting heads and i think they have a place........ it's just not on the end of my arrow lol
I personally like a 60-65# longbow, 300gr meathead and Douglas Fir or bamboo arrow with total of 750gr.
Yep and there are alot of people like you that want the narrow heads. Fortunately you guys have alot of them to choose from. But there are just as many of us if not more of us that want wider heads and should not be this hard to find them.
@@SamkoTradBow completely agree !! ...... maybe get you some good steel and build some trade points ? I have done that before . If your not good with heat treating , you can use good saw blades and keep them kool while cutting out . I live in Alaska so I'm used to never finding what i want or need ha!ha!
Maybe they make 1 1/8” because they fly better.
Could be for some. But for many tuning a 1.5 head is very easy and no flight issues at all even with minimal feathers. I have videos where I shoot a 1.5 wide solid magnus head on a bar shaft at 20 yards 3 time and center punch the target all 3 times. Many many many of us want a 1.25-1.5 x 2.5 head in single bevel. We will handle the flight no problem.
Ditto on the simmons tree sharks or simmons in general
Great heads! But lack heavier weights or glue on options or single bevel options I'm looking for. But amazing heads and love how simmons is dedicated to wide heads!!
Simmons tree shark
Summons makes amazing heads. But they don't make a 1.5 wide I could make 250 grain head out of. Meaning a 250 grain screw in or a glue on that I can mount on steel adapter to get 250 grain head weight. The world needs more 1.25-1.5 options and also needs more glue on heads! But simmons are great heads!
@@SamkoTradBow It shows the width is 2 1/16 @ 165 grain. they only have one glue on now but they used to have mostly glue on. Wouldn't the wider blade be a better choice?
Abowyer is USA 🇺🇸 made & are nice broadheads
Yep abowyer is and always will be in my top 2 favorite heads. I only shoot razor broadheads or abowyer heads
Also check out Shartac Broadheds
Those are awesome. Like bishop broadheads. Amazing but out of my financial capabilities
@@SamkoTradBow yeah, they're a little over the top accompanied with an over the top price
"we live in a world still defined by physics"... The radical strongly disagrees LOL.
All advantages except penetration.
So a balance is needed. A 4 inch wide 1 inch long head is obviously less effective than a 1 inch 3:1 head.
However, I think the answer is in between somewhere.
Unless your going to do Cape buffalo or other thick skinned African dangerous game. Then you need that 3:1 for deep penetration
It's simple physics. A 1.5 wide by 2.5 long single bevel head with traditional triangle shape is very very efficient and capable and not hard to make. Wish these conapies would get on it instead of putting out weird shapes, dumb names and marketing bs.
I understand what you're getting at, wider Cuts make bigger holes but let's not forget doctor Ashby's 3:1 ratio which gives us to penetration that we want. If you're 1 1/2" head where to hold to the 3:1 ratio it would be 4 1/2" inches long... come on buddy
I dont want 3:1. I could care less about 3:1. I blow thru everything I shoot 90% of the time. And the other 10% I still have amazing blood trails. 3:1 is highly over rates in my opinion
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Agree but this could be 10 minutes.
I already get yelled at for talking to fast. It is what length it is to cover all details
Ok one last comment. If you need to wait 12 to 14 hours to recover your animal you need to spend a little more time on the practice range
Experience has taught me that's the time frame I want to wait for gut shot animals. And yep I could for sure use more time on the range.
@@SamkoTradBow I must have missed the part about gut shot.
Im hearing alot about gut shots and ethical shooting in the same sentence, thats contradictory
Actually it's not. While we try hard to not have gut shots happen, they are 100% lethal and the animals don't go far and have a very very high recovery rate when you understand when and how to to go find them. I bet gut shot recovery is equal to broadside recovery by people that know the proper steps to finding gut shot animals.