Didn't realize you got 1000+ emails a month. I sent you a stupid email about the spine on my rampages the other day and you answered me within a few hours. Thanks man and I mean that. Not to many "industry" guys that truly give a shit
Yep. I also emailed Troy with some dumb questions and he answered all of them pretty much same day. Nice to have someone actually answer and engage. It must take up a lot of his time!!!!!! Much appreciated Troy!
My grandfather always said the dumbest question is one that is not asked… unless the question is really really dumb or you don’t really want to hear the answer.
Hey Troy! Definitely appreciate all that you do. I actually sharpen knives professionally. I would recommend to you that you slide the broadheads across all of the stones backwards as well, the same way you strop. This allows the burr on the edge to curl upwards throughout the entire process, and it is a more efficient and effective way to create that razor edge we want. Simple physics also. It’s easier to pull an object across any surface than to push. (Think pulling a chair across the floor as opposed to pushing it) Pushing while sharpening creates an increased vibration that is counterproductive to creating the perfectly smooth bevel, and you’ll lose more material in the process also. This makes stropping easier at the end as well. Don’t take my word for it though, test it! Haha!
are you saying in relation to the broadhead point direction? If he pulled the broadhead down the stone, its the same affect on the blade itself but maybe not the broadhead point though. I would think this might be valid if he was dragging a blade sideways across the stone?
@@txtpqb So I use vpa three blades which for the most part look identical to what Troy is showing here. I did what the OP suggested and when sharpening yesterday only did backstrokes (usually I do a mix of forward and back) and I found that they came out better then they usually do...so idk I'm gonna keep experimenting with dragging backwards only.
I have to say thats some good info. I have some three blade heads im thinking on using. G5 Montec . They are not very sharp out the box so I will definitely have to sharpen them up before I get out in the field with them. So thanks.
@@TheHYENA87 I apologize for the delay in response. I would recommend no forward motions, typically. If you want to go both directions as you sharpen, you CAN, but go about 10% pressure when you move it forward on the stone. I use (in order) a 400, 1000, 3000, 5000 and 8000 grit Japanese whetstones. The only forward strokes I use are at the very end of the 8000 grit stone. 2 very light forward strikes per side to remove the last bit of burr on the edge. After that, I use 3 backward strokes per side on a leather strop block, then I coat the edges with oil to prevent any corrosion.
Great video Troy! I went 540 ish grains and single bevel last spring. Tuned perfect and I blew through my Michigan buck so Quiet and fast that I thought I had missed and hit the tree behind him 10 yards farther. I did bury the broadhead to the carbon shaft in the tree but also shoulder lung heart lung rib with the deer dying 30 yards away. Thanks for what you do it is appreciated!
Man I had a similar thing happen this year. I went to up to 520 grains but couldn't afford to do single bevel broadheads, nor was I confident in my sharpening abilities at the time so I went with a standard fixed blade. I shot at the buck at 40 yards and thought I had missed because I saw the arrow go flying "pass" the deer. Turned out it flying through the deer and he had no clue what hit him, went 30 yds and dropped.
Went heavy after watching all of your vids. Last year i shot a Michigan buck with my Ten Point and a 550 grain arrow, Magnus Black Hornet self sharpened. Zipped right thru him and was able to stop him with the ole "mah" call after the shot. I really don't think he knew he was hurt, and he dropped 10 yards from where I shot him. Never seen anything like it.
I'm glad I found this video, that guy from The Water Swatters is shooting deer with pistol crossbows and always mentions something about sharpening his broadheads with a jig but he don't go into the sharpening part. Thanks for the instruction, I'm glad its idiot proof now I know its right up my alley.
I’m glad you touched on the short-wide broadheads a bit. I’ve been perplexed on why the Annihilator, Exodus, and Tooth of the Arrow all penetrate so well in most tests.
Hey Thumbs McGee! They penetrate well (in comparison to higher MA broadheads) on ballistics gel because the gel constricts the shaft as well, it doesn’t just have to do with the broadhead. On real animals, tissue tends to pull away from the shaft, which is the opposite of what ballistics gel does. It’s like comparing apples and oranges. I hope this answers your question?
@@buckfever9049 I’ve thought about this as well, however when it comes to other test mediums these heads also perform outstanding. Be it MDF, layers of cardboard, or what you’ve already mentioned ballistics gel. I think to adequately test MA, we need a better test medium in general.
Thank you again for the content, just bought six of these broadheads at 150 gr., and I'm running a hundred and fifty grains for an insert on Gold Tip Pro Hunter 300 hundred spine. Truly looking forward to field test.
Not knocking your setup. I had nearly the same set up, except I was only running 225g up front. But I had fliers frequently that I couldn't explain. Put the GT Pro Hunters on the spinner and 3/12 spun true. Loved GT, and shot them for 20yrs. But went to Victory Vap and inconsistencies instantly went away, and group tightened up. Just though I'd share my experience, incase you have similar issues. BTW, great broadhead choice. Troy is making a difference in the archery world.
@@wayneswendsen8310 Thanks for the input. After testing, which by the way great shipping from Sirius Archery, the spine is weak. Will be getting something in a 250 spine now.
My Ranch Fairy 3-blades came in today!!!! The warning on the box said...."contents inside very sharp, use caution."....... Ironically.....they'll need to be sharpened. HAHAHAHAHAHA Thanks Troy!!!!! Cant wait to put these to use.
Great video Troy. I was shooting G5 Montecs and loved how they flew and got them "sharp enough". I switched to a 2 blade and I get them ridiculously sharp. Those broadheads look like they'd have no issues with elk and would love to give those a go.
I have watched all of your videos, and I am in the process of building my new arrows. I just received them in, and have to nock tune them, then fletch them. I have watched a lot of other videos of people talking about RANCH FAIRY setups, and all they seem to talk about is heavy broadheads and tips. They don’t mention the whole testing process to get perfect arrow flight before even worrying about broadheads. My new set up is only going to be about 525 grains. 100 grain insert, and 125 tip/broadhead. But that is what my bow likes, and get perfect bullet holes through paper. It is decent FOC. I feel perfect arrow flight is one of the biggest keys, and you touched on that again in this video. Most people just seem to skip right past the arrow tuning part, and making sure of what works best with their own bows. It’s not just about throwing a bunch of weight on the front and go.
I got the VPA 3 blade broadhead last year in the same dimensions. It flies great. Sharpened up well. So I definitely appreciate the time you spent on sharpening it reinforced what I said for years. Can't be too sharp
Great advice - tune your arrows and have a structurally sound arrow/broadhead combination. Why hunters haven't been doing this ever since they first started bowhunting is beyond me. It is like people are thinking that they are just shaking hands with the animal - not killing it. Keep up the great work and trying to get people to commit to improving their equipment.
I use a short piece of arrow shaft attached to broadhead. Makes it easier to maneuver and flip to next side. Hold arrow shaft with one hand, and apply slight pressure to the broadhead with the other. Been experimenting with Snuffer/Woodsman type 3 blades with steel inserts. Don't seem to fly as well as two blade, but they are 1 1/8 and 1 1/4 inch wide.
Thanks for doing this! I have some Valkyrie bloodeagle that may prove a bit more difficult to sharpen but I think I'll get some of these tuffheads when they are available
Good vid. Might have to get one of those sharpening systems. I’m sure they ain’t cheap but that is exactly what I’ve always wished I had when sharpening 3 blade heads. Good to know about it.
You also said shoot a Magnus fixed blade with bleeders because they’re affordable and work. People fixate on the smaller details and ignore the most important parts-scary sharp, perfect arrow flight, etc. That looks like an effective head. Hope y’all sell a bazillion of them.
Another advantage using a 3 blade over a 2 blade is that an additional blade can up the odds of improved hemorrhage potential on marginal hits. Cutting in three directions is cutting a hole, and not just a slit. A two blade can pass close to, but parallel to, a large blood vessel, and miss it entirely.
Trying to sharpen G5 Montec. Used sandpaper 400, 600, 1200, 2000. Followed with Sirius strop. Used marker to measure material removal. They look good but feel and paper test like a butter knife. Any suggestions would be great!
Hi Troy this is Kevin Davis I was wondering how soon the 200 grain3 blades will be back in stock. I would like to order 2 sets. I have already got your sharpening stones and strop. If you could let me know Thanks. Lol I got rid of my junk mechanical Broadhead.
I got my Ranch Fairy 3 blade broadheads and can't wait to start practicing with them. When they came they had a coating of Vaseline or something like that on them, should I reapply that after I shoot and sharpen them?
Great price on the sharpening kit. No wonder they are sold out. Any chance of an email when these broadheads drop? Going to use them with my crossbow, but I have a great 650 grain single bevel setup for the compound bow
I have been wondering what would happen if a three blade broad head was made with a slight helical like maybe 3 degree or something. Obviously almost impossible to sharpen but i wonder specifically what damage it would do
Hey Fairy! Questions: would a four blade be as easy to sharpen as the three ? And as far as bone splitting power I thought I remember when reading the Ashby report the single and 4 blade are preferable? I’m currently using the Grizzly single 200 Maasai, super sharp but not the greatest at sharpening them but getting better.Good luck and can’t wait for more videos.
I went to buy a few packs and saw the branding on the broadhead itself. I'm game to buy something because it works, but slap branding on the blade itself and I'm not really interested. Something weird about a traditional bow with branding on it's components. This system interested me because I'm not the best sharpener with my single bevels, but I did notice that after sharpening, the paper was never cut on a clean edge as it was to test the dullness originally.
Very interesting. So if arrow weight and flight are equally perfect and both broadheads are stropped to paper-slick cutting perfection, which would you recommend for low poundage traditional archery hunters for deer and bear... this 3 blade or the single bevels you've spoken so much about? Have you tested the difference in penetration / bone splitting?
Any thoughts on the Annihilator broadheads? I’m in the process of switching from a mech head, so any input you have will be greatly appreciated. Thanks!
Magnus black hornet or Annihilator You should be fine However Have you worked on your arrow flight? Can’t have a person slinging the untuned twizzler stick and blaming broadheads “that don’t fly” I am 100% your man for flying stick accuracy!!! Hit me on email Troy@ranchfairy.com for that awesomeness
Since I got my tuffhead evolution 300 grain 3 blades last year I have killed 12 pigs, a cour of rabbits and 2 coyotes with them and just devastating. I still prefer the classic 225 with a 75 grain adapter for my main hunting set up. I'm a traditional guy and keep several different arrows in my quiver a 643 with zwickey eskimos 165 or magnus stingers 150. A 743 with a tuff head 300 and an 843 with a tuffhead 300
@@RanchFairy Yes, sir. I seen your golf bag video when it originally dropped and changed how I feel my quiver. I hunt mainly arkansas and I never know if it'll be pigs, bear, deer or elk coming out
@@mattrogers8723 This one is just set to my specifications to improve penetration and angle of attack. Plus a pyramid tip (I haven’t had a woodsman in my hands for a decade - so maybe they did that)
I think sharpening a 3 blade on a flat surface gives you a 60 degree angle. does angle matter. I thought you needed a smaller angle on a broadhead for a real sharp edge. looking for insight.
Quick question (and maybe I am thinking about it too much).... does it matter which end of the broadhead lead with when sharpening? IE....say I am going in a motion left to right on my stone....does it matter if I go point-end first or thread end first??
@@RanchFairy Kinda hard to not be consistent with 3-blades....... If I screw that up, I dont need to be hunting with arrows and broadheads......hahahahahaha
@@davidayres9865 Yeah - right after I hit send I realized Here’s the deal I push them point forward on stones, etc PULL BACKWARD on strop or whatever you use to finish.
Hard to sharpen confirmed - I tried and it was a pain - so left them on the shelf. It should be good on soft tissue (if sharp - and sharp matters.) But Three blades have no supporting edge to help them rotate in hard things and break it. Two blades work together - they have blades the same plane doing the same thing to help create a fracture. That has been studied. Ed ashby. I haven’t and won’t test it on bone for them. Let the manufacturer do that and prove their claims…….we’ll see Plan for Plan B - that’s my advice
You have come a long way in your sharpening methods, and equipment. If you want to get them even twice as sharp as you are, thow a 3,000 and an 8,000 grit sones into your exact same grit program. IDC what anyone says, testing on paper dulls your work, real fast, unless it is a $2,000 kitchen knife. By bringing tour hone (polish) to 8,000 grit, you can test it by dragging the edge through your arm hair, without touching your skin. When you come up with half hairs on your blade, it is really sharp, and you didn't dull your edge by testing it. Spraying water on those sones will make them cut more efficiently, and keep your stones clean. Dish soap and a scrubby clean them up nice. A cheap diomond plate, say 600 grit is ver nice to wet your stones and rub on them, to make slurry (which helps sharpen) and keep your stones flat.
@@caninphx that is jist a little cube. The slurry it makes may work a little better, but wont keep his nice stones flat. Those broadheads are going to gouge trails in his nice little kit. Flattening stones are very expensive. A cheap diomond plate will work just fine.
I know 1 thing with these broadheads......you better have your shot group together when you use them. They dont look like they make big holes like the "flappers"....lol.... so your shots better be on point!!
Hahah - flappers go BONK and penetrate 5” or bounce off - you better shoot around the ribs and miss all the bones! BTW - tuning your arrows and checking broadhead flight makes for accurate shooting - or just get the old 400 spine twizzler / strap on the flap and pray!!! Wheeeee!! 😂
That’s why I’m supporting a 3 blade one piece head. If people will give up the tinker toy heads and sharpen that thing. Blam. Stay tuned - they’ll be out in a couple weeks
The knife sharpener arrived quickly and in good condition ruclips.net/user/postUgkxDcr-y2Pf6xdnrFHrSP7dl9kpKaCozcSQ I was happy to see that that packaging was easy to open. I did not need a chain saw to get into the package.The sharpener was smaller than I expected but that might turn out to be and advantage because it will be much easier to store than my old sharpener. The instructions on the package were simple and concise; perfectly adequate for this product. I liked that the two slots were labeled with "Course" and "Fine" on both sides of the sharpener. Now, how does it work? It's fantastic. A few swipes of the knife through the two slots and the knife was sharper than when it was new. The rubber surface on the bottom held it in place while sharpening. I thought the small size might be a problem but it was not a problem at all. In fact, I prefer it to the larger sharpeners I have used in the past. On top of that, the small size makes it very easy to store.I love it and highly recommend it.
Didn't realize you got 1000+ emails a month. I sent you a stupid email about the spine on my rampages the other day and you answered me within a few hours. Thanks man and I mean that. Not to many "industry" guys that truly give a shit
Yep. I also emailed Troy with some dumb questions and he answered all of them pretty much same day. Nice to have someone actually answer and engage. It must take up a lot of his time!!!!!! Much appreciated Troy!
@@stevelessard6216 there aren’t dumb questions
My grandfather always said the dumbest question is one that is not asked… unless the question is really really dumb or you don’t really want to hear the answer.
@@ParasitikOne
Correct - most people don’t REALLY want to hear an answer that may be true
But is not what they want to hear!!
Hey Troy! Definitely appreciate all that you do. I actually sharpen knives professionally. I would recommend to you that you slide the broadheads across all of the stones backwards as well, the same way you strop. This allows the burr on the edge to curl upwards throughout the entire process, and it is a more efficient and effective way to create that razor edge we want. Simple physics also. It’s easier to pull an object across any surface than to push. (Think pulling a chair across the floor as opposed to pushing it) Pushing while sharpening creates an increased vibration that is counterproductive to creating the perfectly smooth bevel, and you’ll lose more material in the process also. This makes stropping easier at the end as well. Don’t take my word for it though, test it! Haha!
Howdy, so you recommend no forward motions? Backwards the whole time?
are you saying in relation to the broadhead point direction? If he pulled the broadhead down the stone, its the same affect on the blade itself but maybe not the broadhead point though.
I would think this might be valid if he was dragging a blade sideways across the stone?
@@txtpqb So I use vpa three blades which for the most part look identical to what Troy is showing here. I did what the OP suggested and when sharpening yesterday only did backstrokes (usually I do a mix of forward and back) and I found that they came out better then they usually do...so idk I'm gonna keep experimenting with dragging backwards only.
I have to say thats some good info. I have some three blade heads im thinking on using. G5 Montec . They are not very sharp out the box so I will definitely have to sharpen them up before I get out in the field with them. So thanks.
@@TheHYENA87 I apologize for the delay in response. I would recommend no forward motions, typically. If you want to go both directions as you sharpen, you CAN, but go about 10% pressure when you move it forward on the stone.
I use (in order) a 400, 1000, 3000, 5000 and 8000 grit Japanese whetstones. The only forward strokes I use are at the very end of the 8000 grit stone. 2 very light forward strikes per side to remove the last bit of burr on the edge. After that, I use 3 backward strokes per side on a leather strop block, then I coat the edges with oil to prevent any corrosion.
Im buying the strop for the multiple uses, i can keep a keen blade and a keen kid
Great video Troy! I went 540 ish grains and single bevel last spring. Tuned perfect and I blew through my Michigan buck so Quiet and fast that I thought I had missed and hit the tree behind him 10 yards farther. I did bury the broadhead to the carbon shaft in the tree but also shoulder lung heart lung rib with the deer dying 30 yards away. Thanks for what you do it is appreciated!
Man I had a similar thing happen this year. I went to up to 520 grains but couldn't afford to do single bevel broadheads, nor was I confident in my sharpening abilities at the time so I went with a standard fixed blade. I shot at the buck at 40 yards and thought I had missed because I saw the arrow go flying "pass" the deer. Turned out it flying through the deer and he had no clue what hit him, went 30 yds and dropped.
Went heavy after watching all of your vids. Last year i shot a Michigan buck with my Ten Point and a 550 grain arrow, Magnus Black Hornet self sharpened. Zipped right thru him and was able to stop him with the ole "mah" call after the shot. I really don't think he knew he was hurt, and he dropped 10 yards from where I shot him. Never seen anything like it.
Great video Troy! Everyone is going to love the Ranch Fairy edition!
I'm glad I found this video, that guy from The Water Swatters is shooting deer with pistol crossbows and always mentions something about sharpening his broadheads with a jig but he don't go into the sharpening part. Thanks for the instruction, I'm glad its idiot proof now I know its right up my alley.
I ordered a set and the shipping was fast. After inspecting these I have a new go to for my broadhead selection
I’m glad you touched on the short-wide broadheads a bit. I’ve been perplexed on why the Annihilator, Exodus, and Tooth of the Arrow all penetrate so well in most tests.
Hey Thumbs McGee! They penetrate well (in comparison to higher MA broadheads) on ballistics gel because the gel constricts the shaft as well, it doesn’t just have to do with the broadhead. On real animals, tissue tends to pull away from the shaft, which is the opposite of what ballistics gel does. It’s like comparing apples and oranges. I hope this answers your question?
@@buckfever9049 I’ve thought about this as well, however when it comes to other test mediums these heads also perform outstanding. Be it MDF, layers of cardboard, or what you’ve already mentioned ballistics gel.
I think to adequately test MA, we need a better test medium in general.
the answer is here: ruclips.net/video/h0MuG0-C3ao/видео.html&ab_channel=ChemProfJSpencer
Ole RF is right. Put N the work And have the confidence and satisfaction that you did it correctly.
Thank you again for the content, just bought six of these broadheads at 150 gr., and I'm running a hundred and fifty grains for an insert on Gold Tip Pro Hunter 300 hundred spine. Truly looking forward to field test.
Not knocking your setup. I had nearly the same set up, except I was only running 225g up front. But I had fliers frequently that I couldn't explain. Put the GT Pro Hunters on the spinner and 3/12 spun true. Loved GT, and shot them for 20yrs. But went to Victory Vap and inconsistencies instantly went away, and group tightened up. Just though I'd share my experience, incase you have similar issues. BTW, great broadhead choice. Troy is making a difference in the archery world.
@@wayneswendsen8310 Thanks for the input. After testing, which by the way great shipping from Sirius Archery, the spine is weak. Will be getting something in a 250 spine now.
My Ranch Fairy 3-blades came in today!!!! The warning on the box said...."contents inside very sharp, use caution."....... Ironically.....they'll need to be sharpened. HAHAHAHAHAHA Thanks Troy!!!!! Cant wait to put these to use.
Been with you since the beginning, I think this will help me turn my friends to shoot adult arrows.😁 Thanks!!!
I’d love to see a video on that 3 blade used on a big hog… see how it performs
Great video Troy. I was shooting G5 Montecs and loved how they flew and got them "sharp enough". I switched to a 2 blade and I get them ridiculously sharp. Those broadheads look like they'd have no issues with elk and would love to give those a go.
I have watched all of your videos, and I am in the process of building my new arrows. I just received them in, and have to nock tune them, then fletch them. I have watched a lot of other videos of people talking about RANCH FAIRY setups, and all they seem to talk about is heavy broadheads and tips. They don’t mention the whole testing process to get perfect arrow flight before even worrying about broadheads. My new set up is only going to be about 525 grains. 100 grain insert, and 125 tip/broadhead. But that is what my bow likes, and get perfect bullet holes through paper. It is decent FOC. I feel perfect arrow flight is one of the biggest keys, and you touched on that again in this video. Most people just seem to skip right past the arrow tuning part, and making sure of what works best with their own bows. It’s not just about throwing a bunch of weight on the front and go.
I got the VPA 3 blade broadhead last year in the same dimensions. It flies great. Sharpened up well. So I definitely appreciate the time you spent on sharpening it reinforced what I said for years. Can't be too sharp
Tuffhead is manufactured by vpa
Great advice - tune your arrows and have a structurally sound arrow/broadhead combination. Why hunters haven't been doing this ever since they first started bowhunting is beyond me. It is like people are thinking that they are just shaking hands with the animal - not killing it. Keep up the great work and trying to get people to commit to improving their equipment.
Love that jig head in the background
You had me at Hello...
Great video, thank you Troy.
I use a short piece of arrow shaft attached to broadhead. Makes it easier to maneuver and flip to next side. Hold arrow shaft with one hand, and apply slight pressure to the broadhead with the other. Been experimenting with Snuffer/Woodsman type 3 blades with steel inserts. Don't seem to fly as well as two blade, but they are 1 1/8 and 1 1/4 inch wide.
As Troy once said:
Use sh*t arrows for the sharpening job like, 'carbon express' or 'easton fmj' arrow. 😌
@@greenhoodedvigilante458 or one you broke on an animal Or robinhooded
Got told I need to check out lapping films to add to my arsenal
Thanks for doing this! I have some Valkyrie bloodeagle that may prove a bit more difficult to sharpen but I think I'll get some of these tuffheads when they are available
I’ve shot some Barry and Gene Winsel broad-heads and they sharpen awesome.Good video
Aerodynamicly, that's a good broadhead.
Hey that's a really nice jig head in the background
Good vid. Might have to get one of those sharpening systems. I’m sure they ain’t cheap but that is exactly what I’ve always wished I had when sharpening 3 blade heads. Good to know about it.
You also said shoot a Magnus fixed blade with bleeders because they’re affordable and work. People fixate on the smaller details and ignore the most important parts-scary sharp, perfect arrow flight, etc. That looks like an effective head. Hope y’all sell a bazillion of them.
Picked some up for the crossbow
Love this Troy. Great stuff brother.
Another advantage using a 3 blade over a 2 blade is that an additional blade can up the odds of improved hemorrhage potential on marginal hits. Cutting in three directions is cutting a hole, and not just a slit. A two blade can pass close to, but parallel to, a large blood vessel, and miss it entirely.
Trying to sharpen G5 Montec. Used sandpaper 400, 600, 1200, 2000. Followed with Sirius strop. Used marker to measure material removal. They look good but feel and paper test like a butter knife. Any suggestions would be great!
Awesome video!
Hey I got that same paddle strop
Hi Troy this is Kevin Davis I was wondering how soon the 200 grain3 blades will be back in stock. I would like to order 2 sets. I have already got your sharpening stones and strop. If you could let me know Thanks. Lol I got rid of my junk mechanical Broadhead.
I got my Ranch Fairy 3 blade broadheads and can't wait to start practicing with them. When they came they had a coating of Vaseline or something like that on them, should I reapply that after I shoot and sharpen them?
Yes - that’s because they are “adult” steel!
Surprised you haven't shown that Oz Cut hurricane 3 blade single bevel
Great price on the sharpening kit. No wonder they are sold out. Any chance of an email when these broadheads drop? Going to use them with my crossbow, but I have a great 650 grain single bevel setup for the compound bow
Great stuff. never stop, great info........
Is this broadhead a better alternative to a single bevel that’s light weight and has an extreme attack angle?
I have been wondering what would happen if a three blade broad head was made with a slight helical like maybe 3 degree or something. Obviously almost impossible to sharpen but i wonder specifically what damage it would do
impossible to sharpen means damage is going to erode. I'm sure a fan of super sharp. WOW does it make a difference.
Troy, with such d heavy arrow set up, are you minimizing your shooting distances?
Hey Fairy! Questions: would a four blade be as easy to sharpen as the three ? And as far as bone splitting power I thought I remember when reading the Ashby report the single and 4 blade are preferable? I’m currently using the Grizzly single 200 Maasai, super sharp but not the greatest at sharpening them but getting better.Good luck and can’t wait for more videos.
I went to buy a few packs and saw the branding on the broadhead itself. I'm game to buy something because it works, but slap branding on the blade itself and I'm not really interested. Something weird about a traditional bow with branding on it's components.
This system interested me because I'm not the best sharpener with my single bevels, but I did notice that after sharpening, the paper was never cut on a clean edge as it was to test the dullness originally.
Very interesting. So if arrow weight and flight are equally perfect and both broadheads are stropped to paper-slick cutting perfection, which would you recommend for low poundage traditional archery hunters for deer and bear... this 3 blade or the single bevels you've spoken so much about? Have you tested the difference in penetration / bone splitting?
What do I do if one of the 3 isn’t as sharp? Back up a couple grits and start again? Or keep stropping?
keep tinkering - go back one level then back to strop
How do these fly compared to a standard?
Great content, thank you!
Can you do a sharpening video with the new stones on single bevel broadheads?
Innovative Outdoorsman has sharpened just about everything. Great channel.
Same process as what he did with The hunting public… but on a stone instead of sandpaper.
what steel are you using in these heads? looks like a great head.
I don’t know the exact steel
It’s not S7 - too expensive and can be a pain to sharpen.
Any thoughts on the Annihilator broadheads? I’m in the process of switching from a mech head, so any input you have will be greatly appreciated. Thanks!
Magnus black hornet or Annihilator
You should be fine
However
Have you worked on your arrow flight?
Can’t have a person slinging the untuned twizzler stick and blaming broadheads “that don’t fly”
I am 100% your man for flying stick accuracy!!!
Hit me on email
Troy@ranchfairy.com for that awesomeness
Since I got my tuffhead evolution 300 grain 3 blades last year I have killed 12 pigs, a cour of rabbits and 2 coyotes with them and just devastating. I still prefer the classic 225 with a 75 grain adapter for my main hunting set up. I'm a traditional guy and keep several different arrows in my quiver a 643 with zwickey eskimos 165 or magnus stingers 150. A 743 with a tuff head 300 and an 843 with a tuffhead 300
GOLF BAG
@@RanchFairy Yes, sir. I seen your golf bag video when it originally dropped and changed how I feel my quiver. I hunt mainly arkansas and I never know if it'll be pigs, bear, deer or elk coming out
I do like the idea of a golf bag quiver, but I also like the idea one arrow for any game that walks out whether its bear, deer, elk or pigs
When will these blades be available?
Why not Woodsman? I've seen some demos for those that look nearly bomb proof. What's the upside of Tuffhead over others?
On another note... really love the content and brutal honesty!!!
@@mattrogers8723
This one is just set to my specifications to improve penetration and angle of attack.
Plus a pyramid tip (I haven’t had a woodsman in my hands for a decade - so maybe they did that)
I think sharpening a 3 blade on a flat surface gives you a 60 degree angle. does angle matter. I thought you needed a smaller angle on a broadhead for a real sharp edge. looking for insight.
Are you putting any kind of polishing compound on the strop?
Only on the rough side
What happened to the single bevel theory?
love the video keep sharp
I’m shooting 70lb 27 inch draw I shoot a fmj 340 so what your saying I need to go to a fmj 300 I sure like talk to ya about this
Hit me on email
I can send more information easier
Troy@ranchfairy.com
250 spine and we’ll get you away from
The tomato planter sticks!
Quick question (and maybe I am thinking about it too much).... does it matter which end of the broadhead lead with when sharpening? IE....say I am going in a motion left to right on my stone....does it matter if I go point-end first or thread end first??
No
Consistent bevel angle is key
So whatever seems natural
@@RanchFairy Kinda hard to not be consistent with 3-blades....... If I screw that up, I dont need to be hunting with arrows and broadheads......hahahahahaha
@@davidayres9865
Yeah - right after I hit send I realized
Here’s the deal
I push them point forward on stones, etc
PULL BACKWARD on strop or whatever you use to finish.
@@RanchFairy Thanks Troy!!! Keep doing what you do!!
@@RanchFairy and I have always gone point forward....dont know what made me ask that today?
Have you messed with the Ozcut three blade single bevel?
Hard to sharpen confirmed - I tried and it was a pain - so left them on the shelf.
It should be good on soft tissue (if sharp - and sharp matters.)
But
Three blades have no supporting edge to help them rotate in hard things and break it.
Two blades work together - they have blades the same plane doing the same thing to help create a fracture. That has been studied. Ed ashby.
I haven’t and won’t test it on bone for them. Let the manufacturer do that and prove their claims…….we’ll see
Plan for Plan B - that’s my advice
Is there a 1.5" cut single bevel that doesn't weigh 300 grains??
Good luck making this dream fly.
What do you do for a pyramid tip that gets damaged?
Grab a file and make it a pyramid
@@RanchFairy roger that, thank you sir
When will these heads be available?
Within the next week
Is there a glue-on version of this broadhead?
Not yet
Good to know, guess I'm stuck using Grizzly 3 blades for now.
You have come a long way in your sharpening methods, and equipment. If you want to get them even twice as sharp as you are, thow a 3,000 and an 8,000 grit sones into your exact same grit program. IDC what anyone says, testing on paper dulls your work, real fast, unless it is a $2,000 kitchen knife. By bringing tour hone (polish) to 8,000 grit, you can test it by dragging the edge through your arm hair, without touching your skin. When you come up with half hairs on your blade, it is really sharp, and you didn't dull your edge by testing it. Spraying water on those sones will make them cut more efficiently, and keep your stones clean. Dish soap and a scrubby clean them up nice. A cheap diomond plate, say 600 grit is ver nice to wet your stones and rub on them, to make slurry (which helps sharpen) and keep your stones flat.
diamond stone.to Create a slurry? why not just get a nagura stone
@@caninphx that is jist a little cube. The slurry it makes may work a little better, but wont keep his nice stones flat. Those broadheads are going to gouge trails in his nice little kit. Flattening stones are very expensive. A cheap diomond plate will work just fine.
I have what look just like those stones. Manufacturer recommend Krud Kutter to use while sharpening.
I know 1 thing with these broadheads......you better have your shot group together when you use them. They dont look like they make big holes like the "flappers"....lol.... so your shots better be on point!!
Hahah - flappers go BONK and penetrate 5” or bounce off - you better shoot around the ribs and miss all the bones!
BTW - tuning your arrows and checking broadhead flight makes for accurate shooting - or just get the old 400 spine twizzler / strap on the flap and pray!!!
Wheeeee!! 😂
@@RanchFairy hahahaha
@@RanchFairy these babies ought to do some serious damage. Cant wait to send em downrange
Where do I get these broad heads
Sirius archery - ranch fairy store
Oh man, a 25 minute video on sharpening a 3 blade. I shoot single bevels (thanks to RF). Probably watching anyway.
Awesome video. Next time can you dress like a fairy? Help set the mood right.
Why arent thry that sharp out of the package
💪🏽🇺🇸🏹
What up
7B ii
O😅lp 1:21
Dude
Man no offense but that board head looks alot like the Valkyrie I love ya but it does
The Valkyrie has a curve to it though…
Moderately inexpensive country comment didn't age well ,🤣🤣🤣
Ha!
Stupid easy to sharpen.
That’s why I’m supporting a 3 blade one piece head. If people will give up the tinker toy heads and sharpen that thing. Blam. Stay tuned - they’ll be out in a couple weeks
Nice to see you’re finally ripping off a culture that actually knows something about blades and sharpening…
I can not believe the hunting public teamed up with this guy to make videos. His attitude sucks.
You’re not alone in your opinion! He is an idiot - ban this ranch fairy guy from You Tube.
Legit!!!
The knife sharpener arrived quickly and in good condition ruclips.net/user/postUgkxDcr-y2Pf6xdnrFHrSP7dl9kpKaCozcSQ I was happy to see that that packaging was easy to open. I did not need a chain saw to get into the package.The sharpener was smaller than I expected but that might turn out to be and advantage because it will be much easier to store than my old sharpener. The instructions on the package were simple and concise; perfectly adequate for this product. I liked that the two slots were labeled with "Course" and "Fine" on both sides of the sharpener. Now, how does it work? It's fantastic. A few swipes of the knife through the two slots and the knife was sharper than when it was new. The rubber surface on the bottom held it in place while sharpening. I thought the small size might be a problem but it was not a problem at all. In fact, I prefer it to the larger sharpeners I have used in the past. On top of that, the small size makes it very easy to store.I love it and highly recommend it.