Excellent video with one important exception: Setting the timing belt tensioner to proper adjustment marks on the tensioner. New tensioners come with exact detail instructions to set the tension properly. Looking forward to your next video.
Hey I know this is an old comment but I'm hoping you can see it. Is the tensioner supposed to be very tight? Is the 'tensioner adjustment pin' supposed to rock a little back and forth when the engine is on or is it supposed to be completely static? Just did this the first time and it seems to be working, but just making double and triple sure. Thank you very much in advance if you actually see this comment.
It’s been a while since I’ve been in this engine but yes I did get notice of your post. Pay attention as to which way the tensioner flips when you initially loosen it. The new belt should be tight but not too tight to stress the belt. The belt will naturally loosen over time but the proper initial tensioner setup should prevent any tooth skipping on this interference engine. Getting the engine mounts and cover is the real challenge of this job. 😂
@@touringusa8760 Thank you so much for taking the time to reply. I have taken notice of the direction and done it by the book. Thing is, I bought a SKF kit and the tensioner has a 'tooth' which you're supposed to set in the middle of the straight metal edge which sits on the block. What I meant by 'rocking' is the tooth moves back and forth for 1-2mm via the tensioning spring as the engine runs. I wasn't sure if this is expected behavior, until it runs for a while and it settles into position or if you should somehow lock the spring into position and be perfectly still. If I tried to tighten the spring a little more then I could feel the belt too tight by hand which I figured would ruin something, so this position was what I figured the best compromise. I drove it around a bit and it seems fine so far so I guess we'll see where it goes. Keeping my fingers crossed nothing catastrophic happens. Edit, I just checked the inspection window again and it seems like on the minimum edge of 'loose', but sill ok-ish probably until it has a bad day. Looks like I'm gonna have to remove the cover again to re-tension it just to be sure. Ugh.
@@Adrian2140 To be honest with you Adrian, it's been so long since I've been into this engine I've forgotten the details of the dilemma you describe. However I can caution you if you have high mileage to inspect the high fuel pressure pump tappet that is driven by the intake camshaft. The top of bucket tappet begins to wear through. After 100k miles or so it begins to wear the camshaft lobe that drives it. I had to replace my camshaft because I had not heard of this issue before damage began. Inspection is easy via access through the top front of the cylinder head on the transmission side. Good luck with your efforts.
@@touringusa8760 That's really interesting, thank you a lot for that information, I need to look into it. The car is currently at 180k KMs and the reason I'm replacing the cam is I want to sell it. Honestly this car has been PLAGUED with issues, from EGR valve to suspensions, door connector causing the famous airbag fault etc. There's even a bit of oil leaking somewhere, someone suggested it's a plastic pipe somewhere, but I haven't looked into it. The construction quality on this car is absolutely awful. The EGR valve is PLASTIC?! The rotor of the water pump is also platic!! I have no idea how VW didn't go under after making this crap. I always joke to my wife that the quality is the same as a mc'donalds toy, except those last longer. In hindsight I should have stopped putting money in this car and junked it long ago but now I can see the light of getting rid of it, I think.
Hi i have replace the timing belt with the exacly the same kit (dayco)on a Audi s3 8p.Everything is going ok,but i have only one little "issue". When the engine is warm(only)i heard a light noise (like whining)from the timing belt. When heard my mechanic you told me,is ok,and normal because the belt is new, and the tension is right....and stop after some kilometers.(1000/2000) Given that the tension is right and on mark, I begin to believe that the belt is responsible... I would like to ask you.Did you have this noise ? (Βy the way,after the belt replacement the misfires (on 1 cylinder)has stop completely) Thanks
You only need to rotate the engine twice to get the correct tension on the belt. Twice because the camshaft only spin one revolution every two revolutions of the crankshaft
Good video! I'm getting ready to do this on my 2008 Audi TT. My only question is how can you tell on the timing belt where the marking is? I've looked at the belt I have but I'm still not really sure on where specifically the mark is. Thanks for your time!
Hi Luca Car, Thank you for the excellent video. I changed my timing belt after watching your video. However, how do you determine how much tension to put on the belt? I seem to have put too much tension that only after a few kilometers, the new pulley bearings have started to squeak. I will need to redo the entire process and check which bearing went bad and make sure I put just the right amount of tension. David.
Great Video!, Remove and Re-Install the motor mount is really a PITA!! are there any trick like yours cardboard special tool? to make easier the mount part.... thanks for the video.
Install the inner engine mount while the belt is loose if you can't get it in.Just pull the belt off put the mount in a then reinstall the belt. Yes, it's in the way a bit but just hold it in with two bolts. I've done THOUSANDS of timing belts (own a shop)
Hi When you rotate the fourth time would you still see the lower margin again exactly the same? because on the first rotation it did not swift back to the point but was about one tooth further, as I see on the video? or is that because of the camera corner? I man should it be exact on each turn from 1st to 4th? Also removing the coolant, would we have to open some button somewhere under the radiator or it is enough to empty it from the waterpumb? Also the piece that you removed and mentioned about puting a stand under the engine, 1. what hard point you placed the stand or jack on? and 2 what was that piece that you had to remove when where was its location? Thank you
excellent video with nice detailed instructions. Really liked that $500 tool suggestion. Unfortunately I took my 2001 VW Golf 2.0L apart after watching other videos that didn't do as good a job giving instructions as yours. Now I am trying to put it back together but I have moved the CS a little in trying to get the belt on. The problem is that I didn't put any marks on the CS before taking off the belt, I did on the CA but not the CS. I read the instructions in the PDF from VW for replacing the timing belt But I don't know where the port is at to make sure that everything is where it should be. Can you give me some direction and help please? If I have moved the CS and put the belt on will it damage my engine? How do I get everything aligned?
+syawn hopkins Good to hear you liked this vid! There should be a mark on the CS sprocket and on the engine, you need to get those aligned. To know the CS is rotaded correctly, put a long screwdriver in the first cilinder and when it's at its highest point the markings should line up. (This is the case on most cars, check it in the manual!) oh and always rotate the engine a few times before starting it. Good luck.
+Luca Car Mods I just want to make sure I understand since I have never done a timing belt replacement before, obviously. The CA sprocket is the larger one on top and the CS is the smaller one on the bottom. The marking on the CA is obvious, but I don't see anything on the CS. But there should be a marking on the CS and the engine?
Don't paint new belt it already have a mark problem is those fools didn't use it aside they made whole of other bunch of mistakes and I would advise u to don't do it the way they did it
i know this is an old video but i need some help! when tightening the new tensioner after belt is installed how do i know how tight to make the tensioner/how far do i turn it? Apparently you're supposed to line up the notch with the tab but they dont line up no matter where i move the tensioner! Am i looking at the wrong mark? do i just tighten the tensioner until it is at its tightest point?
i have a seat altea 2.0 fsi 2005, timing belt broke, valves bent, i've replaced chain tensioner, vvt valve, timing belt tensioner, timing belt, and the car still have a bad idle, any ideas about what i'm doing wrong? compression test says 180 psi in each cylinder. please help!!!!!
my mechanic didnt put the tensioner in the hole he put it down is that bad? i told him but he insisted that its wrong to use the hole, the car did run. Should i change the tensioner back to the hole?
According to my information the timing belt changing interval for 2.0 FSI is 180.000 km. ( www.techtips.ie/Gates/vag-timing-system-replacement-intervals.pdf) From where you have the information that should be changed every 100.000 km?
that looks easy. I don't know if I wanna pay vw $700 for this service if it's that simple, but then again everything I've done looked easy.. if I'm not replacing the water pump would I still need to drain fluid?
Joshuabrutl you don't need to drain the fluid if you aren't replacing the water pump but since you are going to go through all the trouble to get to the belt, you might as well go ahead and replace the water pump just to be safe.
The proper way is to set it at TDC and use the marks that are already there. They decided to make their own marks and use those as a reference for proper timing.
no its the cam chain tensioner, its plastic. i had my cylinder replaced by VW for warranty, good as new. if you just want to replace the cam chain tensioner bring it to a shop because youll have to lock the cams and its not as easy as the timing belt lol
Amigo tengo un problema con mi volkswagen passat 2009 motor 4 cilindros automático esta prácticamente muerto le doy llave y no hace nada ya lo revisaron varias veces y no encuentran la falla repare la computadora del vehículo y nada todavía llevo dos años con mi auto sin encontrar una solución 🥺
duidelijk, als ik mensen erover hoor praten, dan moet de hele motor los nou, dat is 7 boutjes voor ophangsteun verwijderen zoveel stelt het niet voor duidelijke uitleg bedankt
you not a mechanic. when you change oil in TURBO engine(recommend in all engines) you have to fill up your oil filter before install it . that will prevent DRY start....
Dear viwer if you watch this video dont do this at home.... This is not a good video on how to replace timing belt. Especialy theat part when he mark the belt and say you should not folow SERVICE MANUAL to puleys alingment to factory marks. And alsoo theat RTV on wather pump is just ridicilous. You should not make videos like this.And people should be responsable for thair videos and what thay say in them.
On my B6 2.0 BPY 2008 U.S.A. VW Passat the FSI is turbo charged. I suspect this may be different for other regions, brands and models. Also, it quite clearly says on the engine cover "FSI" and not "TSI" or anything else.
Excellent video with one important exception: Setting the timing belt tensioner to proper adjustment marks on the tensioner. New tensioners come with exact detail instructions to set the tension properly. Looking forward to your next video.
Hey I know this is an old comment but I'm hoping you can see it. Is the tensioner supposed to be very tight? Is the 'tensioner adjustment pin' supposed to rock a little back and forth when the engine is on or is it supposed to be completely static? Just did this the first time and it seems to be working, but just making double and triple sure.
Thank you very much in advance if you actually see this comment.
It’s been a while since I’ve been in this engine but yes I did get notice of your post. Pay attention as to which way the tensioner flips when you initially loosen it. The new belt should be tight but not too tight to stress the belt. The belt will naturally loosen over time but the proper initial tensioner setup should prevent any tooth skipping on this interference engine. Getting the engine mounts and cover is the real challenge of this job. 😂
@@touringusa8760 Thank you so much for taking the time to reply. I have taken notice of the direction and done it by the book. Thing is, I bought a SKF kit and the tensioner has a 'tooth' which you're supposed to set in the middle of the straight metal edge which sits on the block.
What I meant by 'rocking' is the tooth moves back and forth for 1-2mm via the tensioning spring as the engine runs. I wasn't sure if this is expected behavior, until it runs for a while and it settles into position or if you should somehow lock the spring into position and be perfectly still. If I tried to tighten the spring a little more then I could feel the belt too tight by hand which I figured would ruin something, so this position was what I figured the best compromise.
I drove it around a bit and it seems fine so far so I guess we'll see where it goes. Keeping my fingers crossed nothing catastrophic happens.
Edit, I just checked the inspection window again and it seems like on the minimum edge of 'loose', but sill ok-ish probably until it has a bad day. Looks like I'm gonna have to remove the cover again to re-tension it just to be sure. Ugh.
@@Adrian2140 To be honest with you Adrian, it's been so long since I've been into this engine I've forgotten the details of the dilemma you describe. However I can caution you if you have high mileage to inspect the high fuel pressure pump tappet that is driven by the intake camshaft. The top of bucket tappet begins to wear through. After 100k miles or so it begins to wear the camshaft lobe that drives it. I had to replace my camshaft because I had not heard of this issue before damage began. Inspection is easy via access through the top front of the cylinder head on the transmission side. Good luck with your efforts.
@@touringusa8760 That's really interesting, thank you a lot for that information, I need to look into it. The car is currently at 180k KMs and the reason I'm replacing the cam is I want to sell it. Honestly this car has been PLAGUED with issues, from EGR valve to suspensions, door connector causing the famous airbag fault etc. There's even a bit of oil leaking somewhere, someone suggested it's a plastic pipe somewhere, but I haven't looked into it.
The construction quality on this car is absolutely awful. The EGR valve is PLASTIC?! The rotor of the water pump is also platic!! I have no idea how VW didn't go under after making this crap. I always joke to my wife that the quality is the same as a mc'donalds toy, except those last longer.
In hindsight I should have stopped putting money in this car and junked it long ago but now I can see the light of getting rid of it, I think.
Wowww was really scared to do it myself but with your video I feel a lots more confident and should be pretty easy thank you!
Thanks guys. Good vid. I have one of these. Great info. It makes jobs like this more accessible to we lesser experienced guys. 👍
This is a great video, excellent quality and extremely thorough directions. Definitely appreciate the quality upload.
Very good visuals in ur videos. Actually shows us how to do it.
Thank you for sharing this. There aren't many DIY videos on FSI timing belt changes. I'm dreading having to remove the engine mount bracket.
Didn't show how they supported the engine :-\
@@phiksit 5:16
Thank u followed this guide on my mk5 worked perfect 👌
Hi i have replace the timing belt with the exacly the same kit (dayco)on a Audi s3 8p.Everything is going ok,but i have only one little "issue".
When the engine is warm(only)i heard a light noise (like whining)from the timing belt.
When heard my mechanic you told me,is ok,and normal because the belt is new, and the tension is right....and stop after some kilometers.(1000/2000)
Given that the tension is right and on mark, I begin to believe that the belt is responsible...
I would like to ask you.Did you have this noise ?
(Βy the way,after the belt replacement the misfires (on 1 cylinder)has stop completely)
Thanks
Lovely job boys well done👍🏻
Great vid! Op de lijst van onderhoudt te doen op onze '08 EOS. Groeten uit Vancouver!
Hi good video. Just to confirm the bottom marking should line up at the top marking when rotate 4 times
You only need to rotate the engine twice to get the correct tension on the belt. Twice because the camshaft only spin one revolution every two revolutions of the crankshaft
+Kristoffer Lilja That makes sense, thanks. I always do it 4 times just to be safe haha.
Can't believe you got only 468 subs (last one is me), you have great video's and I like your interest in cars.
+Fetii 27GZP As long as i have loyal subs who like my videos i'm happy :) Thanks!
Good video! I'm getting ready to do this on my 2008 Audi TT. My only question is how can you tell on the timing belt where the marking is? I've looked at the belt I have but I'm still not really sure on where specifically the mark is. Thanks for your time!
did you figure this one out? same situation
for people in the future it is on the pulley its a small line
Hi Luca Car,
Thank you for the excellent video. I changed my timing belt after watching your video. However, how do you determine how much tension to put on the belt? I seem to have put too much tension that only after a few kilometers, the new pulley bearings have started to squeak. I will need to redo the entire process and check which bearing went bad and make sure I put just the right amount of tension.
David.
Is supposed the tensioner has a marcker and a natch, su you need to match this two....
Easiest timing belt change I've ever seen.
Great Video!, Remove and Re-Install the motor mount is really a PITA!! are there any trick like yours cardboard special tool? to make easier the mount part.... thanks for the video.
Great video Sir thanks from UK
Install the inner engine mount while the belt is loose if you can't get it in.Just pull the belt off put the mount in a then reinstall the belt. Yes, it's in the way a bit but just hold it in with two bolts. I've done THOUSANDS of timing belts (own a shop)
Hi
When you rotate the fourth time would you still see the lower margin again exactly the same? because on the first rotation it did not swift back to the point but was about one tooth further, as I see on the video? or is that because of the camera corner? I man should it be exact on each turn from 1st to 4th?
Also removing the coolant, would we have to open some button somewhere under the radiator or it is enough to empty it from the waterpumb?
Also the piece that you removed and mentioned about puting a stand under the engine, 1. what hard point you placed the stand or jack on? and 2 what was that piece that you had to remove when where was its location?
Thank you
Hello guys I have this exact engine , I want to know where is the high pressure fuel pump located?
Great video!
Muito bom obrigado ajudou muito.
Great Video!!! Thanks!!
Very helpful, thank you guys!
good video
How do you know crank is in right position
excellent video with nice detailed instructions. Really liked that $500 tool suggestion. Unfortunately I took my 2001 VW Golf 2.0L apart after watching other videos that didn't do as good a job giving instructions as yours. Now I am trying to put it back together but I have moved the CS a little in trying to get the belt on. The problem is that I didn't put any marks on the CS before taking off the belt, I did on the CA but not the CS. I read the instructions in the PDF from VW for replacing the timing belt But I don't know where the port is at to make sure that everything is where it should be. Can you give me some direction and help please? If I have moved the CS and put the belt on will it damage my engine? How do I get everything aligned?
+syawn hopkins Good to hear you liked this vid! There should be a mark on the CS sprocket and on the engine, you need to get those aligned. To know the CS is rotaded correctly, put a long screwdriver in the first cilinder and when it's at its highest point the markings should line up. (This is the case on most cars, check it in the manual!) oh and always rotate the engine a few times before starting it. Good luck.
+Luca Car Mods I just want to make sure I understand since I have never done a timing belt replacement before, obviously. The CA sprocket is the larger one on top and the CS is the smaller one on the bottom. The marking on the CA is obvious, but I don't see anything on the CS. But there should be a marking on the CS and the engine?
+syawn hopkins Correct. Most of the times there are markings on the CS sprocket and the engine.
why didnt you guys get a pump with metal instead of plastic
10:40 that rattling noise make me go crazy in my MK5 any ideas what makes tha noise?
dry start... best to turn the ignition a few times before. also add oil to your filter housing
When you take the timing belt off... Wouldn't the sprockets spin ???
Goed gedaan jongens. Goede video
Nice video !one question ...what kind of paint do you use to mark? i mean, doesn't it affect the quality of the belt?
Don't paint new belt it already have a mark problem is those fools didn't use it aside they made whole of other bunch of mistakes and I would advise u to don't do it the way they did it
When are you guys going to do the camshaft chain timing on the same engine, cause it's twin cam
i know this is an old video but i need some help! when tightening the new tensioner after belt is installed how do i know how tight to make the tensioner/how far do i turn it? Apparently you're supposed to line up the notch with the tab but they dont line up no matter where i move the tensioner! Am i looking at the wrong mark? do i just tighten the tensioner until it is at its tightest point?
What is the interval for replacing timing belt and tensioner for VW PASSAT B6 2.0 FSI 2007?
180 000 KM
Going to try this soon on our Audi A3 project car
One thing which could be more helpful on the tensioner pully where the pin line up to?
question, how do you jack the motor to remove the motor mount? by the oil pan?? I don't think so..
Yes!..that's the way I did it, just put a board down there an use a jack...just... carefully.
Very nice thanks...
i have a seat altea 2.0 fsi 2005, timing belt broke, valves bent, i've replaced chain tensioner, vvt valve, timing belt tensioner, timing belt, and the car still have a bad idle, any ideas about what i'm doing wrong? compression test says 180 psi in each cylinder. please help!!!!!
When removing the engine mount bracket no engine support is necessary?
No, you have to support the engine with a floor jack or a bridge tool.
@@lukew2194 Thank you brother
Where I can find out If I need 145 or 148 cog belt?
Hey, do you know the engine code on the engine in the video???
my mechanic didnt put the tensioner in the hole he put it down is that bad? i told him but he insisted that its wrong to use the hole, the car did run. Should i change the tensioner back to the hole?
whats the best way to remove/reinstall the engine bracket mount
Hí Guy´s,
great instruction video You done there!
Still no job for me, will let Audi do it, price 1000 euro in this year 2016!
According to my information the timing belt changing interval for 2.0 FSI is 180.000 km. ( www.techtips.ie/Gates/vag-timing-system-replacement-intervals.pdf) From where you have the information that should be changed every 100.000 km?
Is this similar to 1.6 tdi seat leon 2012
that looks easy. I don't know if I wanna pay vw $700 for this service if it's that simple, but then again everything I've done looked easy.. if I'm not replacing the water pump would I still need to drain fluid?
Joshuabrutl you don't need to drain the fluid if you aren't replacing the water pump but since you are going to go through all the trouble to get to the belt, you might as well go ahead and replace the water pump just to be safe.
So easy bro. I bought a $60 on ebay. Tensioner, belt and water pump. Best savings ever my friend.
as far as I know ,(I have a Skoda Octavia with this engine type) this type of engine does not have a turbocharger...it is naturally aspirated engine!
You show how to time camshaft marks but not too clear on crankshaft marks
My 2.0 FSI BLX have 241 TKM, and working. Shit sound, medium fuel consumption but driving. Oil only 12-15 tkm change, not 30 tkm.
You guy didn't have to set it to top dead center?
The proper way is to set it at TDC and use the marks that are already there. They decided to make their own marks and use those as a reference for proper timing.
I would be worried the crank/cam would drop back because of compression and not locked off
now i know i can do it in my backyard
this model doesnt have a timing chain too? like 2007 tfsi engine?
tfsis had belts, tsis had chains
@@ancientapparition1638 TFSI has a belt and a chain.
Thank you guys, much appreciated. Does this procedure also apply to the 2 litre TFSI engine?
no, that engine has chain on it and you dont want to mess with chain. just leave it alone.
Lukas L33 The TSI engine on mk6 and late mk5 gti has timing chain, The standard mk5 gti engine is belt driven TFSI.
does anyone know what volkswagen passat 2.0t wolfsburg edition normally sound like mines sounds like a baby diesel
you don't have enough oil pressure at top end..the timing chain make noise(yes this motor have timing chain at top end connecting both cams)
should I get a check engine light
My 2006 MKV GTI has always sounded very diesel-like (I'm the original owner). I've been told that it's the direct injectors that make that noise.
no its the cam chain tensioner, its plastic. i had my cylinder replaced by VW for warranty, good as new. if you just want to replace the cam chain tensioner bring it to a shop because youll have to lock the cams and its not as easy as the timing belt lol
Amigo tengo un problema con mi volkswagen passat 2009 motor 4 cilindros automático esta prácticamente muerto le doy llave y no hace nada ya lo revisaron varias veces y no encuentran la falla repare la computadora del vehículo y nada todavía llevo dos años con mi auto sin encontrar una solución 🥺
Cost off replacement
This is a non turbo fsi
Tool a look on the pic and started laughing xD the fook broo
duidelijk, als ik mensen erover hoor praten, dan moet de hele motor los
nou, dat is 7 boutjes voor ophangsteun verwijderen
zoveel stelt het niet voor
duidelijke uitleg
bedankt
It's not turbo charged
This is not a turbocharger engine!!!
Bro bad boy how to video.
you not a mechanic. when you change oil in TURBO engine(recommend in all engines) you have to fill up your oil filter before install it . that will prevent DRY start....
jebaim taraba luckily a fsi engine is not turbocharged, although he thinks it is...
When you say "ahh that was the trick" but don't actually show or say what the trick is :( Would be helpful!
Pompa na silikon 😂
jak mirek z garazu
Dear viwer if you watch this video dont do this at home.... This is not a good video on how to replace timing belt. Especialy theat part when he mark the belt and say you should not folow SERVICE MANUAL to puleys alingment to factory marks. And alsoo theat RTV on wather pump is just ridicilous. You should not make videos like this.And people should be responsable for thair videos and what thay say in them.
he did the belt better than you can spell though
Bethany Pethers nope never put silicone on waterpump
fsi engines are not turbocharged engines mate!
Not true. I have one. 2008 Passat 2.0T. Engine code BPY.
Golf gti -turbo skoda vrs -turbo
My 2007 Passat also has a FSI 2.0 turbo with BPY engine code.
2.0 FSI has no turbo in the Altea. It‘s the 150 hp naturally aspired engine. Turbocharged is the 2.0TFSI. Because T stands for, guess what, turbo. 😂
@@alexanderheckrodt8636 Correct
FSI is N/A :) non turbo fella
On my B6 2.0 BPY 2008 U.S.A. VW Passat the FSI is turbo charged. I suspect this may be different for other regions, brands and models. Also, it quite clearly says on the engine cover "FSI" and not "TSI" or anything else.
jajaa..four rotations for a four stroke!!....NO... a four stroke does four strokes in two revolutions of the crank.....
So much no in this video.
That is not a turbo charged engine
An FSI isnt an Turbocharged engine ... Just saying
It totally depends what series of engine it is. North American BPY series are turbocharged and they are called FSI as well.
What kind of liquid gasket did you use on the water pump?