Thank you so much for the simple timing explanation, the forums are awash with cryptic and incorrect information, and you're extremely straightforward!
**there's some great info on the forums, but if ya arent mechanically inclined and sometimes even if you are, it can be really hard to separate fact from fiction .. Great video brother!
Here to say thank you! Did the cam chain on my edition 30, made marks on the cam’s and cradle before I took it off but for some reason was half a tooth out when I put it all back together, still had it’s full power but revs would hang, idle high etc etc. Attempted to sort it a couple of times since but I never got it right, then I came across your tutorial for the chain. Been about a month now since I’ve done it, and touch wood, it seems to be all okay. Counting and marking the chain links away from the brass link was a massive help. Had to subscribe because of it, and will check out more of your videos.
I also have to thank you, had to replace the chain and the tensioner in my golf 6 r. Never found any precise info on the right marking/counting according to the chain even in the VW repair guide. With your simple explanation you saved my day👍👍👍. Dropped a like and a sub. Much appreciation from Germany 😉.
Had the pleasure of meeting Nick yesterday. Top man! Brilliant video Nick...helps a lot for someone one like me who didn't know much about what this work involves!
Sitting in every mans place of freedom "the bog" and low & behold my fav popped up, be here now till dogs need walking. Looking forward to this one. Peace and thanks Sid
I've just come across your channel, and I just say I am super happy with finding out your 20 minutes away, I need the work that you're doing done so will be contacting you real soon
thanks mate. I head a leaking head gasket, leaking valve seals and a bunch of other stuff. did everything myself besides the head: brought the head to a specialist and they repaired the valves as well. BUT.... they put the intake cam 1 tooth off of the cam chain sprocket on the intake cam..... I was done waiting, so your video helped alot. thanks
Thank you for this video and the other one on rounded cam bolt removal. The technique worked perfectly. Needed to check my cam timing as something wasn't right on a car I bought. Turned out to be a broken cam locator pin so the variator had moved slightly causing sluggish performance. The video allowed me to confirm I had assembled it properly. Cheers
@@DecimalTenths I managed the chain and tensioner without destroying the engine so belt should be a doddle! Will give you a shout once it's all sorted to finally get to the bottom of that wastegate problem. 👍
@@chriseddie4281whats up with the wastegate?? I liked the one vid showing putting a little more tension on the spring to get that little bit more boost out of it.. Think it was here, i e seen a whole lot of really helpful vids here which is nice since i have always done EVERYTHING myself.. guess being a mechanic has some benefits.. lol
You saved my life with the chain marking everything else I found said the copper piece went on the exhaust sprocket and my car ran like shit for the last 5 months no boost p0016 code and I new it had something to do with the timing but couldn’t figure out what and I switched the chain to tha way you showed and she’s back to herself thanks again
When my mates mk5 gti was in to get the timing chain done the mechanic that was on it phoned in sick the next day when it was due to be built back up 😁 horrible job which you made look straightforward 👏😎
Very in depth video. My mk6 golf r has the same trail of oil down that side of the block with a bit of pink in it which im guessing is coming from the water pump. The oil builds up round the bottom pulley is this likely to be from the turbo like you mentioned?
I would like to thank you very much i did a timing chain change for my mk5 gti like what you showed us simple and straight forward I did the test with vcds before it was -4 after installing new kit it reads 0 Thank you so much
Very good information especially using VCDS. One thing that I did see is you didn't replace the motor mount bolts. On the Audi with the stretch bolts this is a necessity. Is the VW different?
No they are the same, so "should" be replaced. I didn't on this one admittedly as first of all it's mine.., and secondly I knew i had to pull them off again a week later as the engine came out to fix a snapped stud
Literally just did mine your vid helped a lot surly doesn’t matter what way the chain goes does it ? Iv seen vids where good link is facing the engine did my a4 today turned it over by hand double checked perfect 👌
Hey, thank you for the video, that is actually the single best for that repair. If that bolt does strip, though, what would be your go to solution? Drill it out or go for one of those stripped bolt kits with the left-threaded drill bits? Thanks in advance for your response!
Nice video man!! Had cam chain & tensioner replaced on my s3 8p and timing now looks same as yours, spot on!! Can you please also explain in block 091 what the cam. adjustment int bank 1 6.3% means??? If it means anything of course.... Thank you!
Cheers dude. That is the duty cycle on the VVT (N205) solenoid. Essentially how hard it is working. It will change with revs to make the actual cam position match the specified. Around 6% at idle is perfect.
Great video, given me the confidence to attempt it myself. Should I lubricate the chain and tensioner with fresh engine oil when assembling? And maybe put a few drops on the camshaft too?
I try to keep everything clean and dry so i dont get oil or anything on the gasket surfaces or anywhere its not supposed to be.. but like he said it wont hurt and it will have oil all over it the second its started...
Hi! I have done the same job, and it starts ok. But after it gets the choke period done, my idle is very rough, and shakes the hole car. I have a p1093 fault code. The car runs well, and have a good engine sound. Any ideas, how to fix this problem? Ohh, and i didn’t see any air flow in the real time data... i tried to pull the air flow meter, but it didn’t get any better.
Servicing my 06 jetta gli with the tfsi today. My timing belt cover is stuck in a cut out on the passenger side motor mount. in the video yours pulled straight out….
It can sometimes be a bit tricky due to the mount and the turbo water return line that runs down there. Just got to be gentle when removing. If it comes out no problem, then it's generally been trimmed by the previous guy who changed the belt. Early TFSIs came with 1 piece covers which are appallingly bad to remove 🙈
I wish I had seen this video before changing my chain. I have VCDS but didn't think to check the chain stretch. Anyway, good thing I did change the chain and tensioner.
Thanks for the video. Very well explained. I followed the explanation and changed the chain on my audi a4 b7 2.0T fsi because it had the p0016 code and the readings from the measuring block indicates specified 28kw and actual 31.4kw for the camshaft adjustment. After changing the chain, the readings became 28kw specified and between 27.5 and 28 kw, yet the p0016 code is still there. Please kindly help me, what do I need to do to clear the p0016 code. Thanks
First, I want to say thank you for this incredible video. You have no idea how helpful it was for me. Second, I do not have VCDS but I do have an Autel MS906BT. how do I find such values there? I am handy with mechanical stuff, but when it comes to the software side of things, I fall flat on my face. Any help will be greatly appreciated! I have a 2007 VW GTI if it helps. Thanks a lot for making these videos!
We don't use that system sadly dude. But the measuring block or love data always has the same numbers regardless of system, so look for love data/measuring blocks 091 093 👍
Did you notice any change in idle and cold start noise? Thinking i'm needing a new belt and cam follower soon, so would be good to listen for pointers.
Huge question tho before I do this. The crank tdc mark is spot on the cam is 1/8th off just like a sliver.. it was running an driving before the cam chain tensioner just broke so I figured Id do it all at once. Which one should I make sure is spot on since when the cam is at the tdc marks the crank is a little before it… when crank is at tdc arrow the cam is a little past it..
The cam marking is on plastic so could be slightly out. Confirm it by measuring tdc down the no.1 spark plug hole. There is a way of doing the belt by counting teeth also.
Great content, just binge watched a load on your channel lol. Back to this vid as struggling to figure out my values. Should these all be measured at idle? On idle my duty cycle sits at 5.9%, 28° spec and 24.5° actual. Block 93 shows -3°. However if revs are increased slightly, the spec and actual in 91 tighten right up. Is this normal? Cheers
I appreciate the content nick do you think you could provide a part number for the vvti oil control rings as tps have no idea what I’m talking about much appreciated
Finally put a new chain on! Thoughts on phase position being at +1KW? My adjustment is 27.5-28KW. Car has no codes. It has a jerky rpm randomly which I can't figure out! Pulls good though. New plugs, New coils, New pvc, New crank position sensor, injectors cleaned with new orings, clean intake valves, clean throttle body. New 75/80/205 sensor/etc. New battery and alternator. I'm so lost lol. Vcds shows no codes
Great Video! I will always mark the belt like you do from now on. Ok, here's my issue after replacing the timing belt on my 2007 Audi 2.0tfsi BWT. Timing belt changed, car up and running. Now I plug in VCDS to check cam chain and in timing block 091 getting 6.3 / 28.0 and in block 093 I'm getting +5kw. I was expecting a -4 or -5kw since I just rolled over 200,000 mi (320,000 km). So I pulled off time cover, checked the marks on cam and crank pulley and they look correct. pulled spark plug 1 and double checked for TDC and that looks good. Am I correct that +5kw means the timing is advance? I've been hearing what I think is a bit of cam chain slap on startup, so I'm getting parts together to do the work and when I checked VCDS I got the +5kw. Also did the cam pulley seal while I was in there. Could I have put this together wrong or have the belt 1 tooth off? Have you seen this before?
Yeah we see positive (advanced) figures often. Generally not as big as 5kw, but its nothing to be worried about. The timing sounds correct from your figures. Remember the phase position is merely a measurement of error (normal to have some), and can indicate a tolerance in the timing components as well as a fault. Best bet is to replace the chain, tensioner etc with genuine bits and see where it is then.if it's still out, then at least you have peace of mind that there's no danger of it snapping. Then road logging would confirm the VVTs ability to adjust cam timing inline with specified.
@@DecimalTenths What blocks can I use in vcds to check the n205 and could that be the problem causing the +5kw? and would low oil volume or pressure create a +5kw? And if it's not too much to ask, what is the road logging procedure? Thanks for the quick response!
Fantastic video, looking to check my timing soon, in block 91 i have a requested value of 28 degrees all the time and my actual between 34 - 36 degrees and no phase value, have you seen this before?
Yes pal, Your timing is incorrect. For that actual value with no phase then I'd suggest that your belt is a few teeth out. Possible chain also, but start woth checking the belt first 👍
On my S3 its showing a +1 reading so I'm guessing it's been done recently when the head was removed and cleaned ready for the block mod and the RS3 injectors! Great video liked and subbed :)
It's only done 1,500 miles since the rebuild but at least I have some idea on how to monitor it now so will just do a quick check once a month? Today it developed a suspected air leak after the idle went crazy, so checked out the throttle body on VCDS plus the sensor both seemed ok and working correctly, so we had the smoke tester out with the UV glasses and torch to finally locate a burst pipe right under the manifold 🤦♂️ These videos on RUclips actually help a novice with diagnosing problems rather than running to the garage for everything 💪
Great information! I got my chain kit ordered. Wondering what is the name of the tool you use to move the intake cam back to get the exhaust gear back on?
I was wondering if you took off the timing chain cover without removing the vacuum pump? It’s hard to tell, any idea as to why my vacuum pump was stuck?😂 I took of the 3 bolts and it wouldn’t budge lol, was it because it put it in tdc?
No they can be stuck sometimes, and we've even seen them jammed up with silicone from previous removals too. It will come out with the 3 bolts removed.
Hi, great tutorial video! I recently bought a GTI and checked the engine group 93 values - it looks fine (-1.0KW). I didnt check group 91 tho. What does that mean for the timing chain and timing belt? Are they both in good condition or I can only be sure about the chain? I am a little bit worried about the cover next to the fuel pump (yours has white "GTD" writing on it) mine is very dark and oily - what could that possibly mean? Previous owner stated he did some work on timing 13k miles ago.
I just changed the thermostat housing, belt and tensioner, on my gti. They're the biggest jobs ive done as diyer. Ive just had the belts and water pump done by VW. There's a slight rattle on the chain also now im thinking i could change it myself. What you reckon? Anyway subscribed 👊
Ah i should clarify the belt and tensioner was the alternator not the timing. Ill watch this a few more times first. You make it look so easy. I know id be pulling my hair out doin it 😬
Mate please explain how you remove the intermediate engine mount that bolts to the engine. Do you have to remove drive shafts to allow for enough movement? I see when you're putting back together you have the intermediate engine mount in, but not timing cover on, my timing cover is all one piece so cannot fit after mount is on, please reply you legend.
Hey pal, I assume you have an AXX engine with a 1 piece cover? If so then the procedure is to remove the drives haft and disconnect the exhaust to allow the e gine to tilt enough to remove the cover. Most people snap it off and replace it with the 2 piece covers. The 1 piece was a short lived shit idea...
Hey indeed great video and very entertaining. I did this job once and will need to repeat it. Can i ask how do you deal with the bolts? Do you just tension them by feeling and reuse the old ones? I am a bit of a newbie, and the guidelines keep saying replace the bolts since they are yield-bolts. But I am assuming that its a bit of a fuzz
Cheers 👍 Depends which bolts. Tensioner, VVT unit then replace. All others such as rocker, chain end cover, engine mounting bolts in a DIY setting I'd reuse. In the workshop we would assess them and either reuse or replace depending on condition and ability to get to yield again.
@@DecimalTenths Hey thank you for your reply, yes of course rather uncritical bolts such as engine mounting bolts. I dont believe they need the 100% specified torque, however each time i reuse I am scared that it will sheer
Hi mate, wooooww super video 👍 it was very very helpful thanks. Done chain and tentionner (-5 before) Actual reading : 091 : 24°KW spec and 23°KW act. It is normal ? Or any probleme ? (yours is 28°KW and 27.5°KW). 093 i have : -1°KW Waiting for your reply bro, thanks.
@@DecimalTenths yeahh bro, i have got AXX engine. And what will be the issue if one of the oil ring is broken ? I have a issue with brakes, it stops the car to rought and suddent, the braking is no more smooth after the chain replaced. +little dsg gear shifting problem, not smoot like before. Advance thanks if you can help me out. 🙂
Hi friend , great video , why or at what point , do you put the pin in the tensioner ?? Before installing the locking tool , did you set the engine at any point, moving the wheel ? Or this is not necessary ?? Many many thanks
Hi, if the timing chain and tensioner was set correctly the slot on the intake sprocket should be exactly at the 12 and 6 o'clock position to accept the vacuum pump? Thanks
Which is the right kit to buy as many part shops just say it’s a 2 item part and some say it’s got more than 2 things etc. I have an 05 plate AXX engine.
Hi pal, Yeah seen positive phase a few times. 1 was incorrect timing belt timing (over advanced). 2 was a jammed vvt adjuster, also called variator which couldn't retard. It was full of swarf from a previous drilled out bolt I believe. Best bet is to check the belt timing (normally obvious from 30+ deg block 091 actual readings. After that, strip and investigate on the timing chain side. You can investigate the N205 solenoid and Cam position sensor without stripping anything. After that it's cover off and check chain, tensioner etc...
@@DecimalTenths cheers buddy pulled the timing chain cover the other day all seems good. Pulled apart the vvt cleaned it out its had a new n205. Will check the cam postion sensor while I'm doing cambelt this week. Block 91 is owt from 27 to 28 kw
This was really useful thanks! My S3 had HPFP failure and I've replaced: Cam chain cover (The bore for the follower was damaged), Hpfp for a new unit and replaced the HPFP internals and the piston was damaged (They're uprated as car is stage 2+) using my cheap reader I can see that my fuel rail pressure can't keep up at full throttle, if I put foot down and wind to maximum boost the fuel rail pressure drops down to almost zero, the engine floods and won't start until it's been sat for 20 mins. My intake cam lobe had some wear following the failure, I cleaned it up with 2000 grit and metal polish then changed the oil and filter.. I'm thinking that I need to replace my intake cam due to lobe wear. Is the process for replacing the intake cam pretty much what you showed in this video plus just swapping the cam over? There's nothing needs re-shimming if I'm changing cams? Thank you! Much appreciated
Hi pal, Sounds like you've had a mare...🙈. To remove the inlet cam you will have to remove the upper cam cap/cradle which also holds down the exhaust cam. This can be done leaving the exhaust cam timed up via the belt, but just be careful if you're not removing the belt, to ensure it doesn't come off. Also when refitting the cradle make sure you're careful when torturing up. Not a terrible job to be honest. The ideal way is obviously to unhook the timing belt and relieve the pressure from the exhaust side.
@@DecimalTenths I really have! Been off the road 3 weeks so far and cannot find any garage that will work on it without charging nearly 2k! Hence why I'm looking myself 🤦♂️ Thanks for that, doesn't sound too bad, the car has also developed a leak from the hpfp since i swapped that out 🤣 If the thing drives again it'll be a miracle!
Hi bud, first off the video spot on saved me some money! But my vcds is saying its 6.0kw and not 0? I stripped it down again and checked and everything is timed correctly any other suggestion?
Hi @DecimalTenths I changed my chain and tensioner last weekend (INA set) my readings before were -3/-4 after changing the set now it is on -2. BTW I used your video as a guide. visually when everything was mounted the chain looked exactly like yours. I was hoping to get to 0. However, when doing a cold start I can still hear some very short chain rattle for a tiny bit of a second. is the tensioner maybe faulty even if new? best regards
Hi there, -2 is an OK measurement. It's common on the non oem kits like INA to have some tolerance. The tensioner is oil fed so drop your sump and clean out your pickup to ensure it gets good flow from startup.
@@DecimalTenths after hearing some minor rattling on cold starts, I decided to take the new set off after only 200kms. What I noticed is that the chain became really "stiff" and if it seized somehow. Now I don't know what to do. I ordered another set, maybe the chain was faulty or maybe there is another problem with oil preassure. I installed a 1.8t oilpump and a bolt on oil Filter housing from a fsi first gen. Only checked the oil preassure once before starting the car since IT was a complete rebuild, the oil preassure was building up to around 2.5 bar at starting (without ignition)
Yes, really you should, but as long as the cams are in position so that the timing tool slots over, it kinda is irrelevant. Defo TDC whenever doing timing work though for me 👍
Got me fully Gassed thinking I should have done my own but is there any chance of doing another a3 petrol this one is not a quattro got genuine crank belt timing kit all we need is cam chain oil pump chain oil pump sprocket seem you know what your doing effortlessly let me know
Are you in london because I have my partners a3 timing belt kit cam timing chain oil pump chain and sprocket that has to be done dam near sounds like a diesel and it a petrol if it's possible how much like your work
Thank you. The video is great . Wish you would have shown more about the vacuum pump and hpfp removal and the other hoses. Thank you so much for the video
Would you have any advice on why it would be running that way. Just changed everything you did in you video. Any and I mean any help would be appreciated. Thank you
@@richiec9077 I did, had to advance the timing belt one tooth, spun around with a wrench and everything lined up perfect. Started the car, runs like a top. Thank you for everything!
I'm completing this job on a b6 passat right now. Where does the ground point attach to the camshaft timing cover. I'm not sure if I have it in the right spot
hello, GTI MK5 here. In group 091 I get 28 degrees (spec) and 26.5 degrees (actual). on group 093 I get -3.00 degrees. What I have wrong? also do you recomend replacing the cam adjuster when doing the chain? thank you in advance!
All good marking the belt if it was right to begin with. Nothing to say the guy prior didnt put it a tooth or a half tooth out. Seen plenty of Gates stuff fail on forums/groups online.
Hello mate, my son did his servicing for a 08 Reg Golf TSI but after few days he found the engine warning light on. I connect by OBD an cleared the fault. But now the engine is not starting and the AA said it's possibly the timing belt as it's not starting at all. I doubt it as everything was perfectly fine until I cleared the fault. Do you think it need the crankshaft sensor changing. There is no knocking sound when turning the engine.
Hi there, This is the type of fault in which I could diagnose pretty quickly if the car was in front of me. You can check the output of the crank sensor in a decent diagnostic tool which will give you the answer. I wouldnt recommend guessing and firing parts at it. Best to book in here or somewhere local to you who can diagnose for you
I just got my exhaust sprocket off. I had a chain guide failure top and bottom. Can I reuse my stock vvt sprocket? Looks in good shape, I do have a replacement though . Non oem
Attempted the chain on Sunday, what a shite show! Had a stripped bolt on hpfp and VVT case. Ended up having to drill them out. Then when I tried to undo the variatior bolt the cam tool just bent and allowed cams to move freely. Going to do your trick and weld the tool up so it's more sturdy. Might even tap the holes for the csk screws to next size.
HEY BROTHER I GOT A QUESTION FOR U. I HAVE 2008 VW PASSAT 2.0T FSI BPY (EA113). MY PHASE POSITION INTAKE B1 ON MB93 IS ABOUT 6KW°. JUST WONDERING U MENTIONED THAT ANYTHING ABOVE -4KW° BUT MINE IS +6KW° SO IS MY CHAIN BAD. I'M CONFUSED AS ALL FORUMS I'VE SEEN ONLY MENTIONED NEGATIVE NUMBERS NEVER POSITIVE. PLEASE LET ME KNOW. LOVE YOUR VIDEOS ALSO. HAPPY NEW YEAR ALSO MB96 SHOWS 27.5 TO 28KW° WHICH I THINK IS GOOD?
Positive numbers suggests that there is a positive tolerance on the chain correlation. This could be due to a fault, or down to the tolerance on the chain if it is aftermarket. For that situation I would want to know what parts were fitted and then log the data to male sure it is a fault.
@@DecimalTenths I believe the chain and tensioner are original. I don't have any codes either. I was planning on doing a stage 1 IE TUNE so just wanted to make sure car is as good as it can it for the tune. My timing belt and pulleys were done 1 month ago.
Hi, we changed the belt and chain, chain is installed 100% correct but we have -12 degrees on block 93. Looks like we are one or maybe even 2 teeth off on the belt. We didn't have cam and crank locking tool. If I now loosen the belt tensioner which direction do I have to turn the camshafts clockwise or counterclockwise?
Update: do not trust this value. On my BWE it doesn't mean anything. We changed the belt 2 teeth over, still -12, 4 teeth in the different direction still -12, starting rough. Then we unbolted the front and set it correctly still -12. This value does not show crank to cam correlation!!! nor can it show difference between intake and exhaust cams!
Followed this video for a cam chain, tensioner and VVT replacement today, phase position was around +6kw before and is now sitting at +10kw!! I have stripped it down twice and same reading!! Any ideas? Thanks
I would log the car on a pull, for block 091-2/3 req vs actual. If they agree with no fault codes then its doing its job. You could leave it with the peace of mind that you hVe replaced the chain and tensioner. If you wanted to dig further then check the oil control rings, n205 vvt solenoid and cam position sensor.
Hi man, nice video to see! I got an problem with my GTI. P000a. Pashe position its -1.0. Its an new chain and cam adjuster. Its possible to turn the belt sproket a little bit.?
Could be a few things, did you replace the 3 oil control rings with the chain. The code is more related to the vvt n205 solenoid and the vvts ability to adjust.
@@DecimalTenths Thankyou for reaction. I got new rings in the cover oem vw. And a new Febi n205 valve. I dont know what to do. The fault code come back after 60km of driving. Maybe an bad oil? I use petronas 5 w 30. (For my other gti no problems with stage 2 tune)
Hi. Great video. Mine the values are all matched as yours except the 093 im at -3 is that ok? Im runing a stage 3 set up. Thanks a lot. Keep up the good work
If you have history of a chain, and your belt interval is good then I wouldn't worry about that. If no history of a chain then I'd consider doing the chain at the least.
@@DecimalTenths thanks for your reply. After one heat cycle run i measured again and its come down to -2. I think we good now. Keep posting awesome videos
so i did mine and it all seems fine, no weird sounds or anything, sounds amazing on idle and revs just fine, but ive noticed tiny small backfires when the car is cold and i rev it, and i honestly dont think ive had that before. as soon as the cars gain temp the pops stop. could the timing be off?, i think i need to get my self one of those readers
Thank you so much for the simple timing explanation, the forums are awash with cryptic and incorrect information, and you're extremely straightforward!
Cheers, the forum pages are indeed a load of crap generally 🤔
**there's some great info on the forums, but if ya arent mechanically inclined and sometimes even if you are, it can be really hard to separate fact from fiction ..
Great video brother!
@@BabyCharlotteschannel True dat bro. Cheers man 👍👍
Here to say thank you! Did the cam chain on my edition 30, made marks on the cam’s and cradle before I took it off but for some reason was half a tooth out when I put it all back together, still had it’s full power but revs would hang, idle high etc etc. Attempted to sort it a couple of times since but I never got it right, then I came across your tutorial for the chain. Been about a month now since I’ve done it, and touch wood, it seems to be all okay. Counting and marking the chain links away from the brass link was a massive help. Had to subscribe because of it, and will check out more of your videos.
Thanks very much pal, glad it helped you out 👍👍
I also have to thank you, had to replace the chain and the tensioner in my golf 6 r. Never found any precise info on the right marking/counting according to the chain even in the VW repair guide. With your simple explanation you saved my day👍👍👍. Dropped a like and a sub. Much appreciation from Germany 😉.
Nice one!! Cheers
Had the pleasure of meeting Nick yesterday. Top man! Brilliant video Nick...helps a lot for someone one like me who didn't know much about what this work involves!
Pleasure to meet you too pal. Thanks for the custom 👍
Excellent content nick straight forward guide got love this guy never fails to deliver
😁😉
Sitting in every mans place of freedom "the bog" and low & behold my fav popped up, be here now till dogs need walking. Looking forward to this one. Peace and thanks Sid
Hope it doesn't disappoint, and you get to finish "it"...😝
Finished that mega job in toilet (well thats what i told her). Now going to get in bed and watch again 😆😆😆🙏
Just had mine changed ended up taking it to a garage for them to do it. Costly job but no more rattle on cold start and of course peace of mind 👌🏻
Cool, nice to see you definately needed it then 👍
I've just come across your channel, and I just say I am super happy with finding out your 20 minutes away, I need the work that you're doing done so will be contacting you real soon
Nice one cheers. Give us a shout and we can sort you out 👍👍
thanks mate. I head a leaking head gasket, leaking valve seals and a bunch of other stuff. did everything myself besides the head: brought the head to a specialist and they repaired the valves as well. BUT.... they put the intake cam 1 tooth off of the cam chain sprocket on the intake cam..... I was done waiting, so your video helped alot. thanks
Nice one pal, glad it helped and you got it fixed.
We just replaced the timing chain on a Seat Leon 1P 2009 thanks to your guide. Great job! Keep up the good work!
So welcome. Thanks 👍 😊
So i have befor this job at mwb93 = -6 and after the job -2 ( all INA parts ) THX for this great timing chain video👌👌👌👌
Great stuff! You're welcome
Thank you for this video and the other one on rounded cam bolt removal. The technique worked perfectly. Needed to check my cam timing as something wasn't right on a car I bought. Turned out to be a broken cam locator pin so the variator had moved slightly causing sluggish performance. The video allowed me to confirm I had assembled it properly. Cheers
Nice one dude, glad it helped.
Right on time Nick, I'm servicing my GTI and doing the belt when I get home 😄
😂 do it pal. Its not all bad on a mk5 🔥
@@DecimalTenths I managed the chain and tensioner without destroying the engine so belt should be a doddle! Will give you a shout once it's all sorted to finally get to the bottom of that wastegate problem. 👍
@@chriseddie4281whats up with the wastegate?? I liked the one vid showing putting a little more tension on the spring to get that little bit more boost out of it..
Think it was here, i e seen a whole lot of really helpful vids here which is nice since i have always done EVERYTHING myself.. guess being a mechanic has some benefits.. lol
Thank you for this excellent video! It cleared all confusion before I attempt this job. Cheers!
Absolutely fantastic video. I have a Mkg GTI and Im looking to get this looked at with regards to all the timing!!!!
👍👍
You saved my life with the chain marking everything else I found said the copper piece went on the exhaust sprocket and my car ran like shit for the last 5 months no boost p0016 code and I new it had something to do with the timing but couldn’t figure out what and I switched the chain to tha way you showed and she’s back to herself thanks again
No problem, glad it helped.
It's irrelevant which side the link goes on, but I use it in this way to make install easier. 👍
you gave me the confidence to do the timing belt and chain on my cupra 1p 2.0 tfsi thanks man! gonna buy me the skf kit tomorrow
Did you end up doing it yourself?
When my mates mk5 gti was in to get the timing chain done the mechanic that was on it phoned in sick the next day when it was due to be built back up 😁 horrible job which you made look straightforward 👏😎
People do tend to fear it, and it can go wrong when the cambolt rounds off which this one did...🙈. Check put the next video 👍
@@DecimalTenths will do man 🙂👍
Very in depth video. My mk6 golf r has the same trail of oil down that side of the block with a bit of pink in it which im guessing is coming from the water pump. The oil builds up round the bottom pulley is this likely to be from the turbo like you mentioned?
Either that or rocker gasket, head gasket. Coolant could be water pump.
hoping you put out a full intake camshaft replacement video, all the ones ive seen on here dont go nearly into the detail or clarity of yours.
Great video, really well explained and nice to see you do the actual job and explain what your doing.keep them coming.
Cheers 👍👍
Well explained thanks man mine is on -4 so I'm going to change the timing chain asap
Class. Do it for the peace of mind pal
Brilliant video. Great advice and perfectly explained. 👍
Why Thankyou 👍
Great video! I done all this but my car still knocking and rattling, sometimes the oil pressure light comes up and then goes away
Drop the sump, clean and check the pickup pipe. 👍
Great work mate! Thank you very much !From South Africa
Cheers brother from another continent 😜👍
I would like to thank you very much i did a timing chain change for my mk5 gti like what you showed us simple and straight forward
I did the test with vcds before it was -4 after installing new kit it reads 0
Thank you so much
Nice one well done 👍👍
Nice do like the bit with marking the old belt too
Great video! One question though, I’ve done the same job and after doing the job on block 93 I have 1kw degree instead of -1kw. Why is that?
The timing correlation is 1 degree tighter instead of slacker. Perfectly normal 👍
Very good information especially using VCDS. One thing that I did see is you didn't replace the motor mount bolts. On the Audi with the stretch bolts this is a necessity. Is the VW different?
No they are the same, so "should" be replaced. I didn't on this one admittedly as first of all it's mine.., and secondly I knew i had to pull them off again a week later as the engine came out to fix a snapped stud
Thank you for doing this video! A3 back on the road again!
👍👍
Literally just did mine your vid helped a lot surly doesn’t matter what way the chain goes does it ? Iv seen vids where good link is facing the engine did my a4 today turned it over by hand double checked perfect 👌
Nice one, no it doesn't matter at all which way the link faces.
I always do this and transfer marks over from belt too belt always easier in my opinion
Cos you know pal 😉👍👍
Hey, thank you for the video, that is actually the single best for that repair.
If that bolt does strip, though, what would be your go to solution? Drill it out or go for one of those stripped bolt kits with the left-threaded drill bits?
Thanks in advance for your response!
I've made a video on the bolt stripping 👍👍
@@DecimalTenths Awesome, I'll check it out right away! Thx
Nice video man!! Had cam chain & tensioner replaced on my s3 8p and timing now looks same as yours, spot on!! Can you please also explain in block 091 what the cam. adjustment int bank 1 6.3% means??? If it means anything of course.... Thank you!
Cheers dude. That is the duty cycle on the VVT (N205) solenoid. Essentially how hard it is working. It will change with revs to make the actual cam position match the specified. Around 6% at idle is perfect.
why cant more people go into more depth explaining stuff like this
Because they don't want you to know...😉🤣
Great video, given me the confidence to attempt it myself. Should I lubricate the chain and tensioner with fresh engine oil when assembling? And maybe put a few drops on the camshaft too?
It won't hurt, but it's not needed.
I try to keep everything clean and dry so i dont get oil or anything on the gasket surfaces or anywhere its not supposed to be.. but like he said it wont hurt and it will have oil all over it the second its started...
Just finished 30 minutes ago. My gti started up so quiet and smooth 🎉
Sweet 👍👍
@@DecimalTenths she sounds like a beast again. My tune sounds much heavier & my power has been restored. The fixed timing is also excellent
@@CR15PY1 class mate. Good to hear 👌
Hi! I have done the same job, and it starts ok. But after it gets the choke period done, my idle is very rough, and shakes the hole car. I have a p1093 fault code. The car runs well, and have a good engine sound. Any ideas, how to fix this problem?
Ohh, and i didn’t see any air flow in the real time data... i tried to pull the air flow meter, but it didn’t get any better.
Servicing my 06 jetta gli with the tfsi today. My timing belt cover is stuck in a cut out on the passenger side motor mount. in the video yours pulled straight out….
It can sometimes be a bit tricky due to the mount and the turbo water return line that runs down there. Just got to be gentle when removing. If it comes out no problem, then it's generally been trimmed by the previous guy who changed the belt. Early TFSIs came with 1 piece covers which are appallingly bad to remove 🙈
I wish I had seen this video before changing my chain. I have VCDS but didn't think to check the chain stretch. Anyway, good thing I did change the chain and tensioner.
Defo, sadly they do snap if not maintained
I love the gti videos, very technical, i subscribe
Cheers 👍👍
Thanks for the video. Very well explained. I followed the explanation and changed the chain on my audi a4 b7 2.0T fsi because it had the p0016 code and the readings from the measuring block indicates specified 28kw and actual 31.4kw for the camshaft adjustment. After changing the chain, the readings became 28kw specified and between 27.5 and 28 kw, yet the p0016 code is still there. Please kindly help me, what do I need to do to clear the p0016 code. Thanks
What's the phase position in block 093? Check that, and also log the car whilst driving to make sure the req vs actual agree.
First, I want to say thank you for this incredible video. You have no idea how helpful it was for me. Second, I do not have VCDS but I do have an Autel MS906BT. how do I find such values there? I am handy with mechanical stuff, but when it comes to the software side of things, I fall flat on my face. Any help will be greatly appreciated! I have a 2007 VW GTI if it helps. Thanks a lot for making these videos!
We don't use that system sadly dude. But the measuring block or love data always has the same numbers regardless of system, so look for love data/measuring blocks 091 093 👍
@@DecimalTenths great, that's plenty of help. Thank you again!
Quality vid..defo need me cam timing chain sorting..sounds like a diesel!
Just TFSI life that man....😂😝
Great video, do you have any videos doing a timing chain on VW golf 5 FSI engine?
Cheers, sorry no we don't see many of them 😬
Did you notice any change in idle and cold start noise?
Thinking i'm needing a new belt and cam follower soon, so would be good to listen for pointers.
If you have timing issues then you will notice a difference. You shouldn't notice a difference though if everything is OK
Huge question tho before I do this. The crank tdc mark is spot on the cam is 1/8th off just like a sliver.. it was running an driving before the cam chain tensioner just broke so I figured Id do it all at once. Which one should I make sure is spot on since when the cam is at the tdc marks the crank is a little before it… when crank is at tdc arrow the cam is a little past it..
The cam marking is on plastic so could be slightly out. Confirm it by measuring tdc down the no.1 spark plug hole. There is a way of doing the belt by counting teeth also.
How much do you charge mate fit new chain . Would love travel down to you someone that good at dealing with these engines
Cheers! Genuine chain job is £599 with us currently.
Great content, just binge watched a load on your channel lol. Back to this vid as struggling to figure out my values. Should these all be measured at idle? On idle my duty cycle sits at 5.9%, 28° spec and 24.5° actual. Block 93 shows -3°. However if revs are increased slightly, the spec and actual in 91 tighten right up. Is this normal? Cheers
I appreciate the content nick do you think you could provide a part number for the vvti oil control rings as tps have no idea what I’m talking about much appreciated
any update for the part number? :)
Finally put a new chain on! Thoughts on phase position being at +1KW? My adjustment is 27.5-28KW. Car has no codes. It has a jerky rpm randomly which I can't figure out! Pulls good though. New plugs, New coils, New pvc, New crank position sensor, injectors cleaned with new orings, clean intake valves, clean throttle body. New 75/80/205 sensor/etc. New battery and alternator. I'm so lost lol. Vcds shows no codes
Yeah +1 is fine 👍
What about + 5 on phase position ?
Great Video! I will always mark the belt like you do from now on. Ok, here's my issue after replacing the timing belt on my 2007 Audi 2.0tfsi BWT. Timing belt changed, car up and running. Now I plug in VCDS to check cam chain and in timing block 091 getting 6.3 / 28.0 and in block 093 I'm getting +5kw. I was expecting a -4 or -5kw since I just rolled over 200,000 mi (320,000 km). So I pulled off time cover, checked the marks on cam and crank pulley and they look correct. pulled spark plug 1 and double checked for TDC and that looks good. Am I correct that +5kw means the timing is advance? I've been hearing what I think is a bit of cam chain slap on startup, so I'm getting parts together to do the work and when I checked VCDS I got the +5kw. Also did the cam pulley seal while I was in there. Could I have put this together wrong or have the belt 1 tooth off? Have you seen this before?
Yeah we see positive (advanced) figures often. Generally not as big as 5kw, but its nothing to be worried about. The timing sounds correct from your figures. Remember the phase position is merely a measurement of error (normal to have some), and can indicate a tolerance in the timing components as well as a fault.
Best bet is to replace the chain, tensioner etc with genuine bits and see where it is then.if it's still out, then at least you have peace of mind that there's no danger of it snapping.
Then road logging would confirm the VVTs ability to adjust cam timing inline with specified.
@@DecimalTenths What blocks can I use in vcds to check the n205 and could that be the problem causing the +5kw? and would low oil volume or pressure create a +5kw?
And if it's not too much to ask, what is the road logging procedure?
Thanks for the quick response!
Fantastic video, looking to check my timing soon, in block 91 i have a requested value of 28 degrees all the time and my actual between 34 - 36 degrees and no phase value, have you seen this before?
Yes pal,
Your timing is incorrect. For that actual value with no phase then I'd suggest that your belt is a few teeth out. Possible chain also, but start woth checking the belt first 👍
@@DecimalTenths spot on, was exactly 2 teeth out. turns out the shop that did the cambelt 2 years ago messed it up. i owe you one buddy
@@chriswilliams1607 Nice one, glad it helped pal 👍
Thanks from Mexico man! I have a question for somebady to know, Why the phase possition number does not appear?. I have vcds19.6.1
Same engine? If there is no phase, then there is no correlation. Timing is out.
@@DecimalTenths same engine yes. Thank you. Hope more videos
On my S3 its showing a +1 reading so I'm guessing it's been done recently when the head was removed and cleaned ready for the block mod and the RS3 injectors! Great video liked and subbed :)
Yep that sounds bang on pal. Cheers 👍👍
It's only done 1,500 miles since the rebuild but at least I have some idea on how to monitor it now so will just do a quick check once a month? Today it developed a suspected air leak after the idle went crazy, so checked out the throttle body on VCDS plus the sensor both seemed ok and working correctly, so we had the smoke tester out with the UV glasses and torch to finally locate a burst pipe right under the manifold 🤦♂️ These videos on RUclips actually help a novice with diagnosing problems rather than running to the garage for everything 💪
Great information! I got my chain kit ordered. Wondering what is the name of the tool you use to move the intake cam back to get the exhaust gear back on?
It comes in the TFSI chain tool kit 👍
Thank you for this in depth video!
Cheers!!
Terrific video mate, is this the same for a Mk6 golf R then?
Cheers! It is indeed the same pal 👍
@@DecimalTenths thanks mate, how long a labour job is it? Bit too much for me to do myself thinking a garage would charge 3/4 hrs in labour?
@KH Smith Belt is 3-4 hrs, chain is 3-4 hours. Expect 6-8 hours labour total for both
Great content keep it up.How much should it cost to get both done labour and parts please can u tell me individually please thank
To get both done it would be about £1k with genuine parts.
Great video thank you. Can you tell me what the recommended mileage is on these chains for replacement or is it officially a non serviceable item?
You'll want to change it every 80k miles, and if there's no history get it checked at least for the chain stretch guidance in the vid 👍
@@DecimalTenths loads of history but nothing for the timing chain and considering its got 112k miles on it it ma be over due!! Thanks a lot.
Brilliant nick as usual
Thankyou pal
I was wondering if you took off the timing chain cover without removing the vacuum pump? It’s hard to tell, any idea as to why my vacuum pump was stuck?😂 I took of the 3 bolts and it wouldn’t budge lol, was it because it put it in tdc?
No they can be stuck sometimes, and we've even seen them jammed up with silicone from previous removals too. It will come out with the 3 bolts removed.
Thanks for the video. I'm going to be doing this on my edition 35. Do you have a part number for the oil control rings please?
Sure 06F198107A 👍
Are they on the edition 35s as I rang TPS and they cannot find them
Excellent knowledge , good job!
Hi, great tutorial video! I recently bought a GTI and checked the engine group 93 values - it looks fine (-1.0KW). I didnt check group 91 tho. What does that mean for the timing chain and timing belt? Are they both in good condition or I can only be sure about the chain? I am a little bit worried about the cover next to the fuel pump (yours has white "GTD" writing on it) mine is very dark and oily - what could that possibly mean? Previous owner stated he did some work on timing 13k miles ago.
I just changed the thermostat housing, belt and tensioner, on my gti. They're the biggest jobs ive done as diyer. Ive just had the belts and water pump done by VW. There's a slight rattle on the chain also now im thinking i could change it myself. What you reckon?
Anyway subscribed 👊
Cool pal,
If you're a keen diyer then this job isn't a bad one. Just lots to look out for. The thermostat housing is the worst TFSI job in my opinion
Ah i should clarify the belt and tensioner was the alternator not the timing. Ill watch this a few more times first. You make it look so easy. I know id be pulling my hair out doin it 😬
Mate please explain how you remove the intermediate engine mount that bolts to the engine. Do you have to remove drive shafts to allow for enough movement? I see when you're putting back together you have the intermediate engine mount in, but not timing cover on, my timing cover is all one piece so cannot fit after mount is on, please reply you legend.
Hey pal, I assume you have an AXX engine with a 1 piece cover?
If so then the procedure is to remove the drives haft and disconnect the exhaust to allow the e gine to tilt enough to remove the cover. Most people snap it off and replace it with the 2 piece covers. The 1 piece was a short lived shit idea...
Hey indeed great video and very entertaining. I did this job once and will need to repeat it. Can i ask how do you deal with the bolts? Do you just tension them by feeling and reuse the old ones? I am a bit of a newbie, and the guidelines keep saying replace the bolts since they are yield-bolts. But I am assuming that its a bit of a fuzz
Cheers 👍 Depends which bolts.
Tensioner, VVT unit then replace. All others such as rocker, chain end cover, engine mounting bolts in a DIY setting I'd reuse. In the workshop we would assess them and either reuse or replace depending on condition and ability to get to yield again.
@@DecimalTenths Hey thank you for your reply, yes of course rather uncritical bolts such as engine mounting bolts. I dont believe they need the 100% specified torque, however each time i reuse I am scared that it will sheer
Second watch for this video. Can I ask, when you do the timing chain does the engine have to be at TDC?
The notches in the cams need to be at tdc so that the timing tool bolts in correctly. 👍
Hi mate, wooooww super video 👍 it was very very helpful thanks.
Done chain and tentionner (-5 before)
Actual reading : 091 : 24°KW spec and 23°KW act. It is normal ? Or any probleme ? (yours is 28°KW and 27.5°KW).
093 i have : -1°KW
Waiting for your reply bro, thanks.
Hi there.
You must have AXX engine? If so then your readings of 24kw are correct. Every other tfsi wants 28kw as per the video.
@@DecimalTenths yeahh bro, i have got AXX engine.
And what will be the issue if one of the oil ring is broken ?
I have a issue with brakes, it stops the car to rought and suddent, the braking is no more smooth after the chain replaced. +little dsg gear shifting problem, not smoot like before.
Advance thanks if you can help me out. 🙂
Excellent video nick. Where did you get the timing chain and tensioner kit from ?
We supply them direct from VAG pal. Send us a message if you want a cost on a kit
Hi friend , great video , why or at what point , do you put the pin in the tensioner ?? Before installing the locking tool , did you set the engine at any point, moving the wheel ? Or this is not necessary ?? Many many thanks
The pin stays in the tensioner until the bolt is tightened, and then the pin is released.
Hi, if the timing chain and tensioner was set correctly the slot on the intake sprocket should be exactly at the 12 and 6 o'clock position to accept the vacuum pump? Thanks
Irrelevant... if it is in a different position, then rotate the vacuum pump to suit 👍
Another great video, very informative 👍
You'll be able to tackle it now...😉😂
Which is the right kit to buy as many part shops just say it’s a 2 item part and some say it’s got more than 2 things etc. I have an 05 plate AXX engine.
Have you never come across positive phase postion nick going to be changeing timing belt somepoint this week hopefully that will sort the timing error
Hi pal, Yeah seen positive phase a few times.
1 was incorrect timing belt timing (over advanced).
2 was a jammed vvt adjuster, also called variator which couldn't retard. It was full of swarf from a previous drilled out bolt I believe.
Best bet is to check the belt timing (normally obvious from 30+ deg block 091 actual readings.
After that, strip and investigate on the timing chain side. You can investigate the N205 solenoid and Cam position sensor without stripping anything. After that it's cover off and check chain, tensioner etc...
@@DecimalTenths cheers buddy pulled the timing chain cover the other day all seems good. Pulled apart the vvt cleaned it out its had a new n205. Will check the cam postion sensor while I'm doing cambelt this week. Block 91 is owt from 27 to 28 kw
This was really useful thanks!
My S3 had HPFP failure and I've replaced: Cam chain cover (The bore for the follower was damaged), Hpfp for a new unit and replaced the HPFP internals and the piston was damaged (They're uprated as car is stage 2+)
using my cheap reader I can see that my fuel rail pressure can't keep up at full throttle, if I put foot down and wind to maximum boost the fuel rail pressure drops down to almost zero, the engine floods and won't start until it's been sat for 20 mins.
My intake cam lobe had some wear following the failure, I cleaned it up with 2000 grit and metal polish then changed the oil and filter..
I'm thinking that I need to replace my intake cam due to lobe wear.
Is the process for replacing the intake cam pretty much what you showed in this video plus just swapping the cam over? There's nothing needs re-shimming if I'm changing cams?
Thank you! Much appreciated
Hi pal,
Sounds like you've had a mare...🙈.
To remove the inlet cam you will have to remove the upper cam cap/cradle which also holds down the exhaust cam. This can be done leaving the exhaust cam timed up via the belt, but just be careful if you're not removing the belt, to ensure it doesn't come off. Also when refitting the cradle make sure you're careful when torturing up.
Not a terrible job to be honest. The ideal way is obviously to unhook the timing belt and relieve the pressure from the exhaust side.
@@DecimalTenths I really have! Been off the road 3 weeks so far and cannot find any garage that will work on it without charging nearly 2k! Hence why I'm looking myself 🤦♂️ Thanks for that, doesn't sound too bad, the car has also developed a leak from the hpfp since i swapped that out 🤣 If the thing drives again it'll be a miracle!
Hi bud, first off the video spot on saved me some money! But my vcds is saying its 6.0kw and not 0? I stripped it down again and checked and everything is timed correctly any other suggestion?
Would have to know more to help pal.
What is block 091 saying?
Fire me over an email with info if you want.
nick@decimaltenths.co.uk
Hi bud
Thank-you for the reply email sent
Awsome content as usual
Hi @DecimalTenths I changed my chain and tensioner last weekend (INA set) my readings before were -3/-4 after changing the set now it is on -2. BTW I used your video as a guide.
visually when everything was mounted the chain looked exactly like yours. I was hoping to get to 0.
However, when doing a cold start I can still hear some very short chain rattle for a tiny bit of a second. is the tensioner maybe faulty even if new?
best regards
Hi there,
-2 is an OK measurement. It's common on the non oem kits like INA to have some tolerance.
The tensioner is oil fed so drop your sump and clean out your pickup to ensure it gets good flow from startup.
@@DecimalTenths after hearing some minor rattling on cold starts, I decided to take the new set off after only 200kms. What I noticed is that the chain became really "stiff" and if it seized somehow. Now I don't know what to do. I ordered another set, maybe the chain was faulty or maybe there is another problem with oil preassure. I installed a 1.8t oilpump and a bolt on oil Filter housing from a fsi first gen. Only checked the oil preassure once before starting the car since IT was a complete rebuild, the oil preassure was building up to around 2.5 bar at starting (without ignition)
I changed cam belt 3 months ago, today chain and its -2 is it ok?
Yes perfectly acceptable readings
@@DecimalTenths I did check it today after 8 months. On idle its spec 28, actual 26.5-27, on revs its still follow tide. Is it alright? :D -2 still.
Hi Nick, do I need to be a TDC when I time up the cam chain? Thanks for the videos. Nick.
Yes, really you should, but as long as the cams are in position so that the timing tool slots over, it kinda is irrelevant. Defo TDC whenever doing timing work though for me 👍
Got me fully Gassed thinking I should have done my own but is there any chance of doing another a3 petrol this one is not a quattro got genuine crank belt timing kit all we need is cam chain oil pump chain oil pump sprocket seem you know what your doing effortlessly let me know
Cheers, what you asking pal, I don't understand?
Are you in london because I have my partners a3 timing belt kit cam timing chain oil pump chain and sprocket that has to be done dam near sounds like a diesel and it a petrol if it's possible how much like your work
I followed video spot on, and now my car seems like it’s out of time. Are we sure it’s between link 18-19 on the phaser ?
100% this is the correct way.
Thank you. The video is great . Wish you would have shown more about the vacuum pump and hpfp removal and the other hoses. Thank you so much for the video
Would you have any advice on why it would be running that way. Just changed everything you did in you video. Any and I mean any help would be appreciated. Thank you
@@troytampir2614 did you get it sorted mate?
@@richiec9077 I did, had to advance the timing belt one tooth, spun around with a wrench and everything lined up perfect. Started the car, runs like a top. Thank you for everything!
I'm completing this job on a b6 passat right now. Where does the ground point attach to the camshaft timing cover. I'm not sure if I have it in the right spot
It attached to a metal bracket which bolts to the top of the cover with a multispline headed bolt
Nice one! Great info and keep it up.
hello, GTI MK5 here. In group 091 I get 28 degrees (spec) and 26.5 degrees (actual). on group 093 I get -3.00 degrees. What I have wrong? also do you recomend replacing the cam adjuster when doing the chain? thank you in advance!
Hi yes you should replace the tensioner. You don't need to replace the adjuster if yours is in good condition.
Did you use Genuine parts?
All good marking the belt if it was right to begin with. Nothing to say the guy prior didnt put it a tooth or a half tooth out. Seen plenty of Gates stuff fail on forums/groups online.
100% gota check first 👍
Hello mate, my son did his servicing for a 08 Reg Golf TSI but after few days he found the engine warning light on. I connect by OBD an cleared the fault. But now the engine is not starting and the AA said it's possibly the timing belt as it's not starting at all. I doubt it as everything was perfectly fine until I cleared the fault. Do you think it need the crankshaft sensor changing. There is no knocking sound when turning the engine.
Hi there,
This is the type of fault in which I could diagnose pretty quickly if the car was in front of me. You can check the output of the crank sensor in a decent diagnostic tool which will give you the answer. I wouldnt recommend guessing and firing parts at it. Best to book in here or somewhere local to you who can diagnose for you
I just got my exhaust sprocket off. I had a chain guide failure top and bottom. Can I reuse my stock vvt sprocket? Looks in good shape, I do have a replacement though . Non oem
Hi yeah you can reuse if its in good condition
Thank you for the help . Man that bolt is tight on cam chain is tight
Yeah man, it certainly is
Attempted the chain on Sunday, what a shite show! Had a stripped bolt on hpfp and VVT case. Ended up having to drill them out. Then when I tried to undo the variatior bolt the cam tool just bent and allowed cams to move freely. Going to do your trick and weld the tool up so it's more sturdy. Might even tap the holes for the csk screws to next size.
It's one of those jobs that's fairly easy, but on some cars can end up a small nightmare 🙈. Keep at it pal 👍
HEY BROTHER I GOT A QUESTION FOR U.
I HAVE 2008 VW PASSAT 2.0T FSI BPY (EA113).
MY PHASE POSITION INTAKE B1 ON MB93 IS ABOUT 6KW°. JUST WONDERING U MENTIONED THAT ANYTHING ABOVE -4KW° BUT MINE IS +6KW° SO IS MY CHAIN BAD. I'M CONFUSED AS ALL FORUMS I'VE SEEN ONLY MENTIONED NEGATIVE NUMBERS NEVER POSITIVE. PLEASE LET ME KNOW. LOVE YOUR VIDEOS ALSO. HAPPY NEW YEAR
ALSO MB96 SHOWS 27.5 TO 28KW° WHICH I THINK IS GOOD?
Positive numbers suggests that there is a positive tolerance on the chain correlation. This could be due to a fault, or down to the tolerance on the chain if it is aftermarket. For that situation I would want to know what parts were fitted and then log the data to male sure it is a fault.
@@DecimalTenths I believe the chain and tensioner are original. I don't have any codes either. I was planning on doing a stage 1 IE TUNE so just wanted to make sure car is as good as it can it for the tune. My timing belt and pulleys were done 1 month ago.
What vcds do you recommend? Great video!
We use unlimited vin. But you could get limited if you only needed it for your car.
Just been quoted £750 from the stealers for belt and pump 😂. Is it any more sensibly priced from an independent?
We charge £485 for genuine timing belt and water pump replacement. 👍
@@DecimalTenths Thanks man. Do some more videos when you can your content is spot on 👌
Hi, we changed the belt and chain, chain is installed 100% correct but we have -12 degrees on block 93. Looks like we are one or maybe even 2 teeth off on the belt. We didn't have cam and crank locking tool. If I now loosen the belt tensioner which direction do I have to turn the camshafts clockwise or counterclockwise?
Yes sounds like you are a few teeth retarded.
@@DecimalTenths that means i have to undo the belt and turn the cams clockwise right?
Update: do not trust this value. On my BWE it doesn't mean anything. We changed the belt 2 teeth over, still -12, 4 teeth in the different direction still -12, starting rough. Then we unbolted the front and set it correctly still -12. This value does not show crank to cam correlation!!! nor can it show difference between intake and exhaust cams!
Followed this video for a cam chain, tensioner and VVT replacement today, phase position was around +6kw before and is now sitting at +10kw!! I have stripped it down twice and same reading!! Any ideas? Thanks
I would log the car on a pull, for block 091-2/3 req vs actual. If they agree with no fault codes then its doing its job. You could leave it with the peace of mind that you hVe replaced the chain and tensioner. If you wanted to dig further then check the oil control rings, n205 vvt solenoid and cam position sensor.
On a chain that's all black links, I suppose I just mark one of the links and count 18-19 from there? It shouldn't matter, right?
No doesn't matter, just count it right 👍👍
Hi man, nice video to see! I got an problem with my GTI. P000a. Pashe position its -1.0. Its an new chain and cam adjuster. Its possible to turn the belt sproket a little bit.?
Could be a few things, did you replace the 3 oil control rings with the chain. The code is more related to the vvt n205 solenoid and the vvts ability to adjust.
@@DecimalTenths Thankyou for reaction. I got new rings in the cover oem vw. And a new Febi n205 valve.
I dont know what to do. The fault code come back after 60km of driving. Maybe an bad oil? I use petronas 5 w 30. (For my other gti no problems with stage 2 tune)
Hi. Great video. Mine the values are all matched as yours except the 093 im at -3 is that ok? Im runing a stage 3 set up. Thanks a lot. Keep up the good work
Its ea113 cdla. Installed everything new
If you have history of a chain, and your belt interval is good then I wouldn't worry about that. If no history of a chain then I'd consider doing the chain at the least.
@@DecimalTenths thanks for your reply. After one heat cycle run i measured again and its come down to -2. I think we good now. Keep posting awesome videos
so i did mine and it all seems fine, no weird sounds or anything, sounds amazing on idle and revs just fine, but ive noticed tiny small backfires when the car is cold and i rev it, and i honestly dont think ive had that before. as soon as the cars gain temp the pops stop. could the timing be off?, i think i need to get my self one of those readers
It is possible that your timing is out. Best to check it and know for sure 👍