Patterned Sagas? | Saga Saturdays Ep 35

It's finally time to bring some patterns to the Sagas! John works on the Willemin to make a holder for machining the patterns on the Saga tubes.
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[@malteser0212]

I was promised a saga video, I got a willemin video. Am not disappointed.

[@hendrikhanso]

So happy these type of videos are back. Love seeing the problem solving and and making tools to make parts. A honeycomb saga will be soo cool with 2 tone anodizing etc. Cant wait.

[@DeDeNoM]

Traditionally a straight line engine would be used to cut pattern into pens. Maybe you could mimic this with a turning tool on the Willemin. That could give you really nice and bright finish in the cut lines, without the little swirl lines left by a rotating endmill

[@Dzigaz]

Maybe it's better to do the milling with the c-axis , because that way you don't lose concentricity, and how you milled now depends a lot on the accuracy of the machine's x y zeros

[@stevendominy1737]

Matching number sets anodized the same Norseman,Rask and Saga pen for my EDC

[@diederrr]

We need an Amazon update Sunday driving vlog weekly 😄

[@brettbernhardt7608]

Man you rock! Love the scheduled content

[@zviper]

You might have some backlash issues somewhere in the system. Or it could be those tool holders if they were used.

[@heribertorobles310]

Thanks! for show the stages to make a product, and how much time and effort consume to make a product! Time = Money!!!

[@95dodgev10]

If running between centers doesn't provide enough grip on the part you could try either an expanding mandrel or shrink fitting the tube onto a shaft. For the mandrel you could have a slip fit outside of the machine and then use center pressure to make the mandrel swell and grip the tube or something like a tapered pipe thread and plug to cause the mandrel to expand. You could also make a mandrel with a shoulder on one side and a nut on the other to clamp to tube. For the shrink fit thats pretty obvious, have an over sized mandrel and heat the tube then slip the tube over and wait for it to cool. That method will be harder to do quick changes and might be tricky getting the tubes back off without damage. With larger parts you can get the part to expand faster than the mandrel but all of your stuff is so small it'll all get hot and cool off quickly.

[@steinarne79]

No part off tool? you could easly get that final chamfer with partoff in F360

[@Dariettos]

If your tubes already have threads on them why don't you use them as fixturing on the main spindle? I have a saga and when i unscrew the tip i don't see any centering feature between the tube and the tip so that might be the case, but at the same time i wonder how you can get both parts so concentric when the pen is assembled.
Love your videos thank you so much for making this content!

[@matthewvanlew5891]

That insert seems kinda sharp. Almost looks like an aluminum insert.

[@pronkstuk_]

Have you checked if the tool turns on center? If it's off it'll chip 🤔

[@scottschwind4860]

that's what I was thinking too

[@danharlan80]

May be a stupid question, but why not just use a threaded mandrel on the driven side? It would make sure you have zero slip while machining the pattern and indexing. It would be a pain for production runs but it would ensure a smaller rejection rate. Not a machinist but it makes sense in my brain

[@MachinedComponents]

Do you know where abouts in the tool path the insert is failing? I'm guessing it's when you are facing off? Are you sure your tool is on centre height? You could also try slowing down your feed rate as your facing cut gets toward the centre.

[@warrior69fox]

If you had any roundness issues from interpolation is it possible to run the lathe spindle while you feed in with the endmill?

[@flikflak24]

I like that his using straight oil on the willemin but not the kern ( even though the kern would probably also love being on straight oil / being the best for it )

[@felixm.8910]

Is it maybe a wobbling insert, due to a loose fit in the insert pocket (side to side - play)?

[@zbaird3]

You'll love DJI. I've been a customer of theirs since the beginning. The have the best drones on the Market. Everything they put out is Top Notch. Actually I think the best. You can't go wrong w/ DJI

[@TheGriffon22]

Should make some resin printed ones with threaded inserts heat pressed into the ends 😅😊❤

[@claushollen]

Just use a hardned center. Unless you are gonna be turning the OD. If your just gonna be spinning it slowly white you are milling the patterns.
Or use a brass bushing and a hardned center. Maybe an o-ring between the center nd the bushing to insure you have a Nice preload on it.
Love your machines. Been following you since you had your home made mill. You have come a lang way. And make cool sh*t :-)

[@alexkern9134]

Oil ❤

[@bryanlittle4647]

It doesnt look like it chipped out. Looks like material buildup.

[@chriswebb3018]

If it was material build up then the part would be under sized instead of over sized. Also a2 steel doesn't usually leave material build-up like aluminum or any softer material. But it did look like it in one of the shots.

[@Blue_4-2]

⭐🙂👍

[@codman-ic5pt]

True first

[@6803U4]

Cnc is great for multiple parts, but 10 mins on a manual lathe would have got this job done. :)

[@joshuafirman8628]

No it wouldn’t

[@Basement_CNC]

noooo please stop, i cant afford those, but i want one they look so nice 😂😂

[@ryanjordan7113]

Why not make an expanding mandrel with centers?