Parting-off on the Lathe - Rigidity, Rigidity... and a Spring!

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  • Опубликовано: 12 янв 2025

Комментарии • 279

  • @WinkysWorkshop
    @WinkysWorkshop Год назад +38

    Hey... your version is better than mine! Ha

    • @nbrworks
      @nbrworks  Год назад +13

      Hi Mark, very cool having you watching my take on your design. Thank you so much for sharing your many attempts to get a cut off tool that performs well and then share the plans with everybody!

    • @qwertyui90qwertyui90
      @qwertyui90qwertyui90 9 месяцев назад +4

      @@nbrworks Any chance you guys would make these for others ?
      I don't have a mill, or even 10% of the tools you guys do.

    • @cdrive5757
      @cdrive5757 4 месяца назад

      @@qwertyui90qwertyui90 Have you considered a Milling Attachment for your lathe?
      Wakodahatchee Chris

  • @EDesigns_FL
    @EDesigns_FL Год назад +114

    The principle behind this type of tool holder is to raise the fulcrum location. Ideally, it should be above the cutting edge, so that if the blade binds, it will automatically swing away to reduce engagement. This design used to be popular for lathes with threaded on chucks that could not be run backwards. On lathes that can be run backwards, simply flipping the blade/parting tool upside down and running the lathe in reverse will accomplish the same thing. Flex in the compound, which normally places the fulcrum location beneath a conventionally mounted tool and cause the cutting edge to dig in deep when loaded, will reduce engagement on an inverted tool running in reverse.

    • @lesmaybury793
      @lesmaybury793 Год назад +7

      Good explanation and, having used a spring parting off holder I can see that you are correct. Also, the amount of spring seems uncritical as the tool will always flex just enough to unload it then feed in again. This seems to be the cause of the initial chatter one hears on first engaging the cut, until it settles at some equilibrium.

    • @hashgeek929
      @hashgeek929 Год назад +7

      Thanks for the really clear explanation of why this works! The idea of turning a weakness in a system into an advantage for a task is so often counterintuitive that it isn’t even considered.

    • @StyxHackshop
      @StyxHackshop Год назад +3

      I never figured why the inverted parting tool trick was always reportedly so successful - great explanation, thank you!

    • @gonkmeat
      @gonkmeat Год назад +1

      Can't wait to try this.Thank you!

    • @MuellerNick
      @MuellerNick Год назад +1

      I'm sorry to have to tell you, that the saddle doesn't have provisions to prevent lifting off the front. But it does have a clamp to hold the read down tight. So running the lathe in reverse reduces the rigidity. The only reason why this might help is because usually the rear of the cross slide is worn out less. -> repair your lathe!

  • @mailleweaver
    @mailleweaver Год назад +18

    That had to be incredibly satisfying seeing how well it worked in the end. And since you made the thing yourself, you didn't just reduce your future parting operations, you turned them into a pleasure since you can now feel a bit of pride in knowing every time that it was your own work that solved that stress and wasn't just another purchase of someone else's work.

    • @nbrworks
      @nbrworks  Год назад +4

      The first time I tried it I was very conservative and cautious (I was afraid it would break). Imagine my surprise to see it cutting steel like it was nothing. I was very excited that day!!

  • @InheritanceMachining
    @InheritanceMachining Год назад +29

    I cursed with you on that broken tap 😂 Very clever design and execution. I might need to make one as well since I have several T type blades and no way to hold them!

    • @nbrworks
      @nbrworks  Год назад +5

      Hi Brandon! Nice to see you here. That broken tap...! I was extra cautious cleaning the chips and adding fluid. I was feeling the gummyness and taking things slowly... and then it broke with just a couple of threads to go! I went through the roof very fast 😄 but hey, at least I learned how to remove it. Can't wait to see your take on this!

    • @InheritanceMachining
      @InheritanceMachining Год назад +9

      @@nbrworks I know the feeling so well!! I need to increase my carbide mill/drill collection just so I can be prepared when that happens to me 😅 You saved that masterfully

  • @Argent911
    @Argent911 Год назад +15

    This is amazing! You just added a new project to my ever-growing list.

    • @nbrworks
      @nbrworks  Год назад +4

      Ah! Know how that feels! Glad to help making that list grow 😅

  • @CanadianPenguin_
    @CanadianPenguin_ Год назад +1

    17:50 Most of the machine shops I've worked at we save carbide endmills with chipped flutes, tips, or dull specifically for broken bolt and HSS tap removal. We crank the machines rpm to then sorta feed by feel, also the same thing can be done with a cordless drill for large equipment or Onsight repair just need to be carful of drifting with a hand drill.

  • @artisanmakes
    @artisanmakes Год назад +12

    This tool holder is overkill and I love it.

    • @nbrworks
      @nbrworks  Год назад +2

      I thought you would like it! 😅

    • @StyxHackshop
      @StyxHackshop Год назад

      Even a hacksaw used in its creation!

  • @jmtx.
    @jmtx. Год назад +5

    Wow, definitely a game-changer! Awesome build!

  • @lesmaybury793
    @lesmaybury793 Год назад +4

    Excellent result.
    I also was inspired by the Winky spring parting off blade holder so made one. I based mine on the original Armstrong design. My lathe is tiny so parting was always scary!
    It works a treat. The only negative is that it cuts slightly dished with no obvious reason. Watching this video I will try clamping on the bottom as that seems a good idea.

    • @nbrworks
      @nbrworks  Год назад +1

      Did you check if your blade is square to the work? Or if the tip is ground square to the blade or if it's ground slightly towards the chuck or tailstock?
      Also, how are you holding the blade and what size of blade are you using? I'm asking this because I can imagine my 'not so tall' blade flexing if it didn't have good support and if it wasn't square to the work. Maybe that's causing it to dish? Just a thought.
      I decided to support/hold my blade with 4 screws from the bottom because I was afraid the washer might let the blade slip (it also allowed me to better support the 2 blades).

  • @SUNEELKANDA
    @SUNEELKANDA 9 месяцев назад +1

    I saw this video sometimes before and forgot to hit the like button, but now again I searched it and saw the whole process again and hit the like and subscribed to this channel.
    I'll download this video to see it again, whenever I need to design something else using your technology.
    Grab Love from India Uttar Pradesh Agra The City of Taj Mahal,
    Do meet me whenever you plan to visit India.....

    • @nbrworks
      @nbrworks  9 месяцев назад +1

      Thanks! Glad you found it helpful.

  • @JaredBrewerAerospace
    @JaredBrewerAerospace 9 месяцев назад +1

    @3:15 Having converted my only mill to CNC, I say to myself, "First, I sit at my computer and spend more time modeling the part than I would have spent cutting it manually."

    • @nbrworks
      @nbrworks  9 месяцев назад

      Computers... can't live with them, can't live without them!

  • @GoPaintman
    @GoPaintman Год назад +2

    I was super excited to see this double feature tool-build. Awesome video!

  • @MikeYurbasovich
    @MikeYurbasovich Год назад +2

    This just reaffirms my love for two-flute spiral-point taps. Even though that hole was pretty blind, OSG hypro ftw.

  • @AdrianTechWizard
    @AdrianTechWizard Год назад +5

    Nice one!
    I've never seen parting-off be so easy :)

  • @joejoejoejoejoejoe4391
    @joejoejoejoejoejoe4391 Год назад +1

    I made a swan neck parting off tool out of a carbide tipped circular saw blade, plenty of flex but it worked lovely.

  • @Just1GuyMetalworks
    @Just1GuyMetalworks Год назад +2

    Well done! 😃 Parting is often the bane of my existence lol.
    Great video 👍😁👍.
    Cheers!

  • @AdrianBrecely
    @AdrianBrecely 5 месяцев назад +1

    Try a rear tool post parting off holder, with the parting blade inverted- it changes all the geometry and works extremely well
    Also you can leave the parting tool permanently mounted

  • @paulthomson2375
    @paulthomson2375 Год назад

    Thank you for posting, excellent work. I am an old automatic lathe setter, when grinding the front face of the parting tool we would angle the face from 90deg to approximately 120 deg this gives the job a far better finish with little or no ‘Pip’, the piece is not broken or pushed off but cut right to the end.

    • @nbrworks
      @nbrworks  Год назад

      Hi, thanks for that. If you look at the chip formation on the 0.5mm test, you can tell I have it slightly angled. That was on purpose to achieve what you describe, but I think the angle was not enough as it didn't make much of a difference. I didn't play more with that because I thought a more aggressive angle would push the blade into the work (these blades are thin and will bend) and make a concave face. But with time, I will give it another go. Thanks for your input!

  • @peterpocock9062
    @peterpocock9062 Год назад

    When you broke the tap, my heart sank, If it's raining virgin's you know you are going to miss out!
    But, I like the way you managed to save the day. Well done.😊

  • @monkeysuncle4818
    @monkeysuncle4818 3 месяца назад

    Wow, works like a charm. Did kind of a cross between yours and Winkys.
    First tried on a piece of 3/4" dia Comp 360 brass, hand fed and was a little noisy but had the tool slightly above center.
    Corrected the height and went thru a piece of 3/4" dia 303 SS like butter. Finally got to the 1.5" dia 1014, no noise, no chatter and best of all no grab.
    For the steel used 240rpm with feed at .0026 per rev. Could go faster but didn't want to get oil on my new shirt.

    • @nbrworks
      @nbrworks  Месяц назад

      Great!! Glad to know yours worked out well!

  • @WeldingMask
    @WeldingMask Год назад

    創意工夫、細心の注意、そして創造性の高さ

  • @dougmorgan6616
    @dougmorgan6616 Год назад

    One of my one day projects is to make the same type of tool holder but for a smaller lathe with a smaller tool post. I was struggling to come up with a clamping method.
    Thanks for showing me the way.

    • @nbrworks
      @nbrworks  Год назад

      No problem, glad you found it useful!

  • @Dogfather66227
    @Dogfather66227 Год назад +5

    Subscribed. Really nice adaptation of an interesting design. Now I need to make one. Not sure if anyone else noticed the first-rate camera work, clean audio and great scene composition but to me this seems a bit like Inheritance Machining with smaller equipment and a different back-story. At 3.2K subscribers today I feel like I’m getting in on the ground floor of something. . .

    • @nbrworks
      @nbrworks  Год назад +3

      Thanks for subscribing and the big compliment.
      Inheritance Machining is in a league of its own, it's really impressive what Brandon and Paige are achieving.
      Can't imagine the hours and hard work! All the success is well deserved.
      This video is doing well, but the best outcome of this has to be having more than 100 comments and not a single one (so far) of 'bad taste'. I thought this tool could raise some controversy but I'm gobsmacked seeing people talking to each other so respectfully about why it works and other technical aspects. Warms my heart.
      My backstory... maybe one day ;)
      Thank you

  • @joewhitney4097
    @joewhitney4097 Год назад

    Great video, your design worked well. The test cuts and speeds showed a great new tool.
    Thanks for sharing.

    • @nbrworks
      @nbrworks  Год назад

      Thanks, glad you like it!

  • @billdoodson4232
    @billdoodson4232 Год назад +1

    Well to say that is an impressive end result would be an understatement.

  • @mosfet500
    @mosfet500 Год назад

    Thanks for the video, the trick to cutting off is to mount the blade upside down and run the lathe in reverse if you can. If you can't you have to cut from the back side of the cross slide. If the blade binds it swings down away from the part and all the swarf runs out the bottom, not on top of the tool.

  • @adhawk5632
    @adhawk5632 Год назад +1

    One of your best vids yet. Nice one👍👌🇦🇺

    • @nbrworks
      @nbrworks  Год назад +1

      Thanks! Nice to see you coming back!

  • @bryanwanek46
    @bryanwanek46 13 дней назад

    That's an awesome parting tool holdet! Well done sir. I may have to attempt making one.

    • @nbrworks
      @nbrworks  12 дней назад

      Cool. Let me know how it goes.
      Nowadays I mostly use carbide to part off steel, but was this tool holder that taught me how much pressure and speed I should use. It helped developing that feel and confidence needed for the parting operation.

    • @bryanwanek46
      @bryanwanek46 10 дней назад

      @nbrworks I hate parting. A little too much feed and chink, there goes your carbide insert. Not enough and you are just rubbing the workpiece and not cutting. I wish there were unicorn settings for speeds and feeds that would always work. I love how your setup incorporates the spring up in the nose of the holder. Just elegant. Great work!

  • @frash5230
    @frash5230 Год назад

    Amazing video of making a great tool. Seldomly I can watch a half hour video without going fast forward. Here I did. It was exciting as a thriller. Very well done, Sir!!!

    • @nbrworks
      @nbrworks  Год назад

      Thanks, that's too kind 🙂

  • @HariomKumar-hs5gt
    @HariomKumar-hs5gt Год назад

    I had a very hard time parting off 2" aluminium round stock then someone suggested to give clearance along the length of the feeding direction, meaning cutting edge reduces along the length and it worked like a charm with good finishing. I cannot imagine now using a tool without grinding along the length but you here made a clean cut without your tool digging sideways. I guess i will try it use it, as my method reduces the strength of tool and regrinding tool tip 2 or 3 time makes the whole grinded length a waste

    • @nbrworks
      @nbrworks  Год назад

      I can see the downside with that method, yes. Another thing that helped me before I made this tool was to progressively widen the slot with the part off blade. I'm not sure why that helped (maybe less rubbing on the sides?) but it did, and it's also safer because it accumulates less chips in the groove. But even doing that my lathe would stall frequently. If you want to try this tool with less effort making it, have a look at Winky's plans (link in the description). Thanks

  • @ingvarbergstrom7260
    @ingvarbergstrom7260 Год назад

    You have deserved every credit given for this video. However I've noticed that you part-off with constant speed. Thus you have the correct cutting speed only at one depth during the cut, or not at all if you start too slow. By adjusting speed all through the cut has helped me to get good results on my (Chinese...) minilathe. A beautiful video anyhow./Ingvar

  • @ryebis
    @ryebis Год назад

    Nice work, very thoughtful and well explained. I normally part off with the tool upside down, which prevents the tool from getting pulled in while also allowing the chips to fall out. I should try replicating your design. It's quite hard to get good quality HSS parting blades these days in my part of the world, the one I could find costs an arm and a leg. Everyone's moved on to carbide tools.

  • @db45acp89
    @db45acp89 9 дней назад

    Excellent process and work. Kudos on the removal of the broken tap!
    Any chance you have a drawing/ dimensions for this? I didn't see one mentioned.
    Thanks for the great video. Subscribed based on this.

  • @lste
    @lste Год назад +4

    Very interesting to see you dealing with the broken tap.

  • @boshclan
    @boshclan Год назад

    Merry Xmas. Thanks for the videos. It's very appreciated, I have been through the treatment in 2017 and know how hard it is, God bless. Regards from ireland

  • @DK-vx1zc
    @DK-vx1zc Год назад

    Great job, great narration, great videography!

  • @stevewilliams2498
    @stevewilliams2498 Год назад

    I understand the principle.
    Instead of digging into the cut it is automatically backed away.
    With hand feed this is fine as you can back off and cleanup next time round.
    What i don't understand is under power feed when the cut comes back around the depth of cut will increase because the cutter sprang awzy the previous time around.
    Why doesn't it flex away twice as much and 3 times as much and 4 times etc. building up each revolution ?

  • @willrobertson7778
    @willrobertson7778 7 месяцев назад

    That's a great tool!
    If it's any help for welding something to a broken tap the surrounding metal can be covered in a protective paint for welding to prevent the metal being damaged by the welding (sometimes correction fluid for typewriters was used).
    "Broken Tap Extractor" or "Broken Tap Remover" tools are available down to M3 size for both 3 and 4 flute taps - have seen them sold inexpensively on eBay but not sure how good the quality of the steel is. I reckon the 4 flute version would be easy enough to make when needed using lathe then divider and slitting saw on mill - the 3 flute version maybe more difficult.

    • @nbrworks
      @nbrworks  7 месяцев назад +1

      Thanks, I have a few of those now. Waiting to break a tap to try them... or maybe not!

    • @willrobertson7778
      @willrobertson7778 7 месяцев назад

      ​@@nbrworks I often tend to use the sets of 3 taps - it takes longer but cutting in 3 stages reduces the torque on the tap and - in theory - the parallel flutes should make the tap stronger than helical flutes (assuming the quality of the steel is the same though..).
      I think I remember Joe Pie suggesting anchor lube at 26:55 in this video as better for tapping than oil but I haven't tried it yet: ruclips.net/video/jnwVCliIiPI/видео.html

    • @nbrworks
      @nbrworks  7 месяцев назад +1

      Thanks for the suggestion and link, Will, I appreciate it. I don't think I'm able to find Anchor Lube in Europe, but I've changed to another cutting/tapping oil that's been working better. If you see my dovetail cutters video, which was posted after this one, you'll see me tapping M2.5 threads and I also used a 3 tap set with parallel flutes. I admit I used a +0.05mm drill, but that was so easy to tap in 4140. Great advice, thanks for writing that (for other viewers too).

  • @ThePottingShedWorkshop
    @ThePottingShedWorkshop Год назад

    A very good design and result. I don't however you've seen the worst of what happens when parting goes wrong. I used to have a minilathe. When parting went wrong, it stalled. OK, not great, but I upgraded to a well used Harrison M300. 3HP motor plus geared head. When parting went wrong, it would snap the blade with an almighty BANG! embedding shards of the parting blade in the work and leaving me very nervous about parting!
    However, I'm encouraged to watch more of your videos so you've earned another subscriber.

    • @nbrworks
      @nbrworks  Год назад

      Thanks for subscribing. You're right, I didn't have a blade breaking yet, and one should respect this operation (as many others). As I say at the end of the video, I don't normally run my machinery hard, but for the video I had to show you the difference the tool made, hence risking it a little bit more. Thanks for the warning, it's sincerely appreciated 😉

  • @MetalWorkerTools
    @MetalWorkerTools Год назад

    Great video and well explained, thanks for sharing.
    I think the rigid solid tool post makes a huge difference. I always part of (SP200 insert) using the tool upside down that has the same effect as using the tool at the back of the lathe.
    I have a Tapered HSS-Co blade laying for some time now. I put it on my to do list to see how it compares to my current setup.

  • @brandonrenwick9125
    @brandonrenwick9125 Год назад +1

    if you ever need a good finish try inserts for aluminum on a36, or the grind relief and rake angles for alu if its a stick bit in the fly cutter a36 is soft as heck and leaving a built up edge on the tool making it cut like its dull. also makes it rub if the relief angle is not high. you could also increase the sfm to up the cutting temp but i think your best bet is to make the tool have a higher relief angle and rake.

    • @nbrworks
      @nbrworks  Год назад

      Hi Brandon, thanks! That is something I will try. Appreciated! 👍

  • @StyxHackshop
    @StyxHackshop Год назад

    Beautiful tool and incredible result!

    • @nbrworks
      @nbrworks  Год назад +1

      Thanks and welcome! Glad you liked the video and the comments section 😅

  • @grahamhall2662
    @grahamhall2662 8 дней назад

    Wow that was a fantastic demonstration and I learned a lot. With regard to the broken tap, perhaps you could have backed it off on a regular basis to break the chip, swarf, that is the way I was taught but you know a lot more about this than myself? Great save however. Subbed.

  • @angrydragonslayer
    @angrydragonslayer Год назад

    a few recommendations that might seem weird (or you might have drilled into you from shop class)
    Most threads are made to tolerances rather than to nominal. if your taps are 6H (the standard, at least to me) then the M4 tap will cut the tapped hole to a minor diameter of 3.422 meaning you could use a 3.4 drill instead of a 3.3 and thus not only save wear on your taps but also massively reduce the risk of breaking one.
    if you are tapping in any material that produces long chips, the recommended method is to drive the tool for one rotation and then back it up for a length equalling the radial distance between the teeth or until you feel the chip get cut. Getting the chips out more reliably in this way reduces the risk of them clogging up a flute and locking against the side of the hole.

  • @ErikBongers
    @ErikBongers Год назад

    If your setup can handle it, try to cut the dovetail in one go, feeding slowly. Because, with incremental passes, you'll wear the outer tips of the cutter way faster.

  • @peterraftery2426
    @peterraftery2426 Год назад

    a left hand drill bit often works well for broken stuff

  • @chrissmith7655
    @chrissmith7655 Год назад +2

    Never heard of coolant, makes cutters last a lot longer?

    • @simontillson482
      @simontillson482 12 дней назад

      Coolant plus filming doesn’t mix well, I guess.

  • @MegaChekov
    @MegaChekov Год назад

    well done all the best to you and yours from John in Texas

    • @nbrworks
      @nbrworks  Год назад

      Thanks John. Same to you 🙂

  • @MagnetOnlyMotors
    @MagnetOnlyMotors Год назад +1

    Fabulous work ! 😊

  • @firstmkb
    @firstmkb Год назад

    I was cheering for you when that tap deserted you! Nice recovery!

  • @danielepavone3131
    @danielepavone3131 Год назад

    Although a pretty sensible accessory, present day machining is incompatible with this sort of tools. Throwaway carbide tip parting blades ranging from 1mm to 10mm standard come in different grades for different materials, have a high cutting speed (100 m/min easily) and feed rates (0.05-0.1). Replacing the tip requires just a few seconds and the CNC will be reset to the correct measure after the very first cut. Most of the blades are provided with a positive backstop preventing the tip from digging into the holder, thus ensuring constant accuracy when cutting grooves to a precise size. Since all production tools are standardised as regard height and width of tip, no need to check for correct centre height and their price is not exorbitant either. Anyway, a good excercise in fitting. Also, I cannot help noticing how well kept is the surface of your table, well done!

  • @tsmartin
    @tsmartin Год назад

    RE: Breaking tap. Something I do when there is a long distance to tap is ... if the design will allow it ... to counter bore the hole further to reduce the distance you have to tap. I think you said that part was 18mm wide. I would think only 8mm or so is all that needs to be treaded.

  • @oscardavidbenedetto4374
    @oscardavidbenedetto4374 Год назад

    Espectacular, El Porta Herramientas !!

  • @destinbenade7055
    @destinbenade7055 Месяц назад

    Iscar parting off blade with it inserts is the best

    • @nbrworks
      @nbrworks  12 дней назад

      I've moved on to carbide: ruclips.net/video/PbkKVHHavpg/видео.html
      Those are cheap chinese inserts, but they have been working well. This tool I made last year was quite important to develop the right feel to start parting off correctly using other tools. I still use it for aluminum, brass and plastics (soft stuff).

  • @Michel-Uphoff
    @Michel-Uphoff 10 месяцев назад

    Very well executed. Hats off.

    • @nbrworks
      @nbrworks  10 месяцев назад

      Thanks Michel!

  • @MrMartinSchou
    @MrMartinSchou Год назад

    14:20 - Would an oscillating tool work for this? Not sure what type of blade you'd use, but maybe something with an abrasive?

    • @nbrworks
      @nbrworks  Год назад

      Not sure. I looked around what I had immediately available, but found nothing better that a hacksaw blade and my hands. I did try a 1mm drill on a collet but runout was too much. Also the surface was not flat, it would break easily. Maybe a long 1mm endmill would've done it with very light passes, but I don,'t have one and certainly didn't want to break one in there. By hand it took a while though, only 3 or 4 teeth of the saw were cutting!

    • @MrMartinSchou
      @MrMartinSchou Год назад

      @@nbrworksThe best tool for the job is generally what you have available, and your tool did a fantastic job.

  • @gyrogearloose1345
    @gyrogearloose1345 Год назад

    Oh dear - I seem to be the only one - I just don't get it! A cut here, a slit, a slot - I'm lost! where is the 'moving' part? I get the theory - well explained in EDesigns_FL post - but again, where is the 'hinge'? A drawing would be very useful !!!
    Anyway, nice build NBR and I'm glad it works so well. Thanks for sharing!

  • @kentuckytrapper780
    @kentuckytrapper780 Год назад

    I'd say you nailed it,excellent job..

  • @ClintsHobbiesDIY
    @ClintsHobbiesDIY Месяц назад

    I had to save this one and you earned my sub.

  • @fearlyenrage
    @fearlyenrage 8 месяцев назад

    inforamtion: well it dint workout for me. It shatters anyway but a "L" shaped upsidedown iscar part offtool does its job.

    • @nbrworks
      @nbrworks  8 месяцев назад

      I'm sorry it didn't work out for you. At least you found something that works. Cheers

  • @stewartfrye
    @stewartfrye Год назад

    Excellent build congrats

  • @lohikarhu734
    @lohikarhu734 Год назад

    I find that it's often better/safer to drill a bit oversize for tapping, especially in "sticky" material, or when you don't need full torque/ clamping strength in the location, as in a "stop", or a height/depth setting screw, so that tap breakage is eliminated (mostly)

    • @nbrworks
      @nbrworks  Год назад

      You're right about that. In this case I could've/should've also used only a small portion of the hole threaded. Thanks for stopping by!

  • @robertqueberg4612
    @robertqueberg4612 Год назад

    It is a very nice looking tool, that does the job. Congratulations. Parting off stock in a lathe has been a problem since I started working in a shop (1966). Things have become better with the advent of the newer style tool posts. I was shown years ago that inverting the blade, and reversing the spindle would help. It does improve things a lot, but takes time to set up for one cut. No one was ever able to explain the mechanics behind the improvement.
    Since you cross slide has t slots the full length, another approach might be to build a dedicated tool holder of your improved design with a tool either upright or inverted. If you use a parting tool a lot, and also the compound rest, it might be worth your time. I will offer an observation from personal experience. Grinding the back rake on the parting blade does work well, but devil in the process is that the center height drops as the front is re-sharpened. Eventually a piece of the blade needs to be sacrificed to return to the original height, and full blade width. As you lower the front of a tapered blade, you start cutting two groove widths. The “T” blades will give you chip narrowing and consistent groove width.
    I do commend you for solving a problem in such a neat appearing manner, rather than avoiding it, and running to the cut off saw.

    • @nbrworks
      @nbrworks  Год назад

      Hi Robert. You should have tons of experience! Thanks for taking the time to comment and share those observations!

    • @tano1747
      @tano1747 7 месяцев назад

      @Robertqueberg4612
      To understand the principle, you need to think about the toolpost as a flexible structure (which it is... everything is a spring to engineers 😊).
      So when the cutter digs in, what happens? With the extra force of a dig in, on a normal parting set up, the deflection of the toolpost moves the cutter INTO the work, with either chatter, or more catastrophic results ... but any of the 3 options people have suggested in the comments (viz the design here, or a rear toolpost, or an inverted tool in a front toolpost) all 3 produce the outcome that the extra load of a dig in causes the tool to deflect OUT away from the work.
      This prevents the catastrophic outcomes, AND the precursor chatter behaviour.

  • @ironhead65
    @ironhead65 Месяц назад

    Maybe you covered this, new subscriber, what are those abrasive plates you use to go over the sharp edges of the parts? Great content so far! Still going through the back log of videos!

    • @nbrworks
      @nbrworks  Месяц назад +1

      @@ironhead65 welcome! Those are diamond coated files. They're sold as knife sharpening stones, but I like them a lot to deburr parts. I have an amazon link on my website, in the tools section - it's for a set with different grits. The link is in my About section. Alternatively you can buy them individually from aliexpress.

    • @ironhead65
      @ironhead65 Месяц назад

      @ thank you! I'm excited for your next video!

  • @scotts9898
    @scotts9898 4 месяца назад

    Man when that tap broke i cried. Good recovery though.

  • @vincentlee2460
    @vincentlee2460 10 месяцев назад +1

    This is not new, its an old trick. Reverse the chuck rotation and mount the blade upside down achieves the same result

  • @billremington6287
    @billremington6287 Год назад

    Huh. A precision band saw. Wild.

  • @evren.builds
    @evren.builds Год назад

    5:17 what is that file-deburring tool you're using?

    • @nbrworks
      @nbrworks  Год назад

      Hi. It's a diamond coated strip. 600 grit. You can find them on Aliexpress for around 1.5 euros each. Funny how that is one of the most common questions I get in my videos 😄

    • @evren.builds
      @evren.builds Год назад

      haha thnx a ton. Seems to be something I haven't seen before and would like to have. Great video btw ♥@@nbrworks

  • @destromaa8709
    @destromaa8709 Месяц назад

    Damn you have a fast bandsaw

    • @nbrworks
      @nbrworks  Месяц назад

      It was on low speed!

  • @SpookyMcGhee
    @SpookyMcGhee Год назад

    2:05 I sure hope you put inserts in that shell mill it looked like there weren't any😂

    • @nbrworks
      @nbrworks  Год назад +2

      It did a nice job. Imagine it it had inserts! 😅

    • @SpookyMcGhee
      @SpookyMcGhee Год назад

      @@nbrworks Hee hee, I mean it might work on aluminum... I'll have to give it a go...

  • @peraz968
    @peraz968 3 месяца назад

    Cutting or parting is the thing, when everybody says " I have no any problems with it". But the thruth is, that everybody has some problems with it. It is just what it is. Parting = problems. Sooner or later. Biggers, or smaller ones. Thats just the way it is.

  • @MrMojolinux
    @MrMojolinux Год назад

    Another oft forgotten parting off problems are the actual gripping of lathe hard jaws or lack of!
    And or the rigidity of the lathe spindle!
    The hard jaws of any lathe chuck become "bell mouthed" after time, and need to be re ground back proper for accurate and solid gripping, with little to NO chance for vibration or slippage.
    Lathe spindle issues are also due to age and or abuse. This is a more problematic issue probably requiring a re build and new spindle bearings

  • @vaulthecreator
    @vaulthecreator 18 дней назад

    Someone: So how much testing did you actually do?
    NBR: 27:59 Yes.

  • @aleksanderkuzmicz7251
    @aleksanderkuzmicz7251 Год назад

    It would be nice if you could sketch the dimensions. Thanks

    • @nbrworks
      @nbrworks  Год назад

      Hi, I just made a post in the community section with the dimensions. Any questions, just ask. Thanks

  • @monkeysuncle4818
    @monkeysuncle4818 3 месяца назад

    Wondering what did you set the gap at using the limit screw.

  • @georgedennison3338
    @georgedennison3338 Год назад

    Those damn spiral taps are heart breakers; I've all but quit using them because of breakage, & I rarely break a straight flute tap, even tiny ones.

    • @nbrworks
      @nbrworks  Год назад

      I was using one my straight taps last Sunday and just noticed how much easier it was. They were cutting effortlessly while the spiral ones were almost grabbing. I don't use those much, because they're "my good set" (maybe that's the reason why I should use them more) but I think I'll start from now on, specially on through holes. The only downside of that set is they don't have clearance (fat shanks) for deep holes. Cheers!

    • @georgedennison3338
      @georgedennison3338 Год назад

      @@nbrworks Use them 'good' ones, otherwise you'll get ancient like me & regret it. (I had that experience w/ files; started in auto mechanics @ 12, got into fab & race cars, as well, @ 16. Spent decades as line mechanic, shop owner, car builder/racer. Didn't own a new file until 65. Never a priority/xtra $, also cussed & avoided them.
      A new set of quality files opened my eyes to decades of dumb; a good file removes an amazing amnt of material; something 'zen' about it, as well.
      I've relegated my spiral taps to non-ferrous metals, after I broke a couple, did some research & found the supplier had stated "Use on non-ferrous metals".
      I wonder if there's been confusion between true spiral taps & helical 'screw' tap drills, 'cause I've seen vids of guys using spiral taps in drills. Yikes!
      If you read about taps, you'll find different straight flute taps are designed to either pull or push scarf when threading. Blind holes were being threaded long before spiral taps came along. MSC's Big Book catalog, (print version no longer produced - online only), has good tap design knowledge/info.
      Re: reduced shank taps
      Finally got frustrated w/ reg tap shanks & bought a mixed set of under-sized shank pulley taps & nut taps. Didn't know there were taps specifically for threading nuts; very long taper on nose. Pulley taps are just what you'd think; long enough to get about the OD.
      Both types are 6-7" long, ⅜ & under.
      Later,
      GeoD

  • @iamfinkick8134
    @iamfinkick8134 Год назад

    Great HM Home Tooling. As a novice, Question: what cuiitng oil you use on the ferris snd stainless?

    • @nbrworks
      @nbrworks  Год назад

      Hi, I'm using maxcut no.5 from rock oil.

  • @Сутьділа
    @Сутьділа Год назад

    Доброго дня.Как называется фреза на 19-51 минуте видео ?

    • @nbrworks
      @nbrworks  Год назад +1

      это цельная твердосплавная фреза диаметром 6 мм (90°). Спасибо
      English: it's a 6mm solid carbide chamfering bit (90°). thanks

  • @MASI_forging
    @MASI_forging Год назад

    Such a great work👍👍

  • @reparosempra8901
    @reparosempra8901 11 месяцев назад

    Any chance for a drawing? I'm a first year apprentice machinist, and I'd LOVE to have a useful parting tool like this.
    Anyway, very cool demonstration! Thank you for sharing.

    • @nbrworks
      @nbrworks  11 месяцев назад

      Hi and thanks. Have a look at the community tab/page. I made a post about this. Also have a look at the description of the video, there's a link to another video with some plans to make the same tool, just with a different shape. Thanks

  • @jimburnsjr.
    @jimburnsjr. Год назад

    excellent video and work all around.. subbed; thank you.

  • @remlapwc
    @remlapwc Год назад

    Best to play safe when hand tapping small threads and use a tapered starter tap followed by an intermediate lastly the plug or bottoming tap. Go in quarter turn then back off a full turn then repeat, never force it they will snap like carrots, if it's a blind hole regularly remove the tap to clean out the cuttings. Use dedicated tapping lube.
    seized
    If you use cutting fluid on your machine tool work you will get more life out of your tools and a better finish.

  • @miguelcastaneda7257
    @miguelcastaneda7257 Год назад

    Tapered blades are called Johnson blade the t blade are t1..t2. T3 .093...125...187.tpn would be carbide tip...screw mach which your holder mirrors the ones used on old 2g machines

  • @qwertyui90qwertyui90
    @qwertyui90qwertyui90 9 месяцев назад

    I have a 3 Horsepower lathe with power feed and using the carbide insert tooling for parting.
    However, it keeps on breaking the inserts when trying to part. Always towards the end of the parting where it's got only about 2 to 5mm to go from parting a 15mm diameter piece.
    what am i doing wrong :'(

    • @nbrworks
      @nbrworks  9 месяцев назад

      Hi. Seems like you don't have enough surface speed. If you're lathe has variable speed control, try to increase the spindle speed when you reach that point.
      If you're using the power feed, try manual feeding, you should get a better feeling for the tool.

    • @qwertyui90qwertyui90
      @qwertyui90qwertyui90 9 месяцев назад

      @@nbrworks
      power feed is much smoother for me.
      I really have to apply a lot of force if i try to manually feed it.
      I was doing 40rpm. 2mm wide carbide insert.
      parting off pieces 316 stainless steel and 8 to 35mm diameter in range

  • @henmich
    @henmich 6 месяцев назад

    What steel did you use for the holder? Is it just Mild steel, or is it something like A2?

    • @nbrworks
      @nbrworks  12 дней назад +1

      Sorry for the delay. It was 1018. Thanks

  • @adrianprzybyek5758
    @adrianprzybyek5758 Год назад

    1) Tool should have as much contant with toolholder as possible, that reduce vibration. You have contant only on edges.
    2) Higher tool is better in terms of stiffness.
    3) Grove in the middle of carbide inserts makes chips narrower and help evacuation.

  • @mikemcdonough1793
    @mikemcdonough1793 Год назад

    Some Plans would be nice.

    • @nbrworks
      @nbrworks  Год назад +1

      Hi, I just made a post in the community section with the dimensions. Hope this helps!

  • @JFirn86Q
    @JFirn86Q Год назад

    Oh man, that broken tap - I know your pain! You weren't power tapping either and it still broke.

  • @cassiusclay7482
    @cassiusclay7482 Год назад

    Bravo bon travail merci pour le partage

  • @guye7763
    @guye7763 Год назад

    Well done, great video.

  • @machineworld1873
    @machineworld1873 Год назад

    I CALL YOU KING OF CUT

  • @machinists-shortcuts
    @machinists-shortcuts Год назад

    Was the finish significantly better when you left one insert in the face mill?

    • @nbrworks
      @nbrworks  Год назад

      Hi, I didn't spend too much time testing different speeds and depths of cut, but that finish was the best I got. I tried with 2 inserts (opposite sides) and the finish was not so good. The machine can't cope with 4 inserts or more, it's just too much for the motor. Using that face mill was more of an experience, I ordered the 80mm version, but got the 160!

  • @peterfitzpatrick7032
    @peterfitzpatrick7032 Год назад

    That really hurt, as I was watching you start to tap, I thought "not one of those !!"😣...& then SNAP ! 😥
    Not a fan of those spiral flute taps... spiral point is my go to...and maybe finish to full depth with the spiral flute in this case.
    The slitting saw twerking on that arbor was funny, I was waiting for it to grab ... 😂
    Definitely, a scissor-type knurling tool is better, it takes all the loading off the spindle and cross slide and, for me at least, it gives cleaner knurls... (I have both types btw)
    Really enjoyed this video, thank you 🤗
    (You really deserve more subs with your content)
    😎👍☘️🍺

    • @nbrworks
      @nbrworks  Год назад

      Thanks! Yes, I think I will have to get one of those scissor type knurling tools, this was the second or third time I used mine and didn't like it. It puts a lot of pressure on the turning part/bearings. A hemingway tool would be nice, but I don't know if they are too big for my lathe?? Maybe a scaled down one would be better? Questions.
      Slitting saw arbors, that's another one. They didn't grab because I was feeding very slowly, but I need to make a couple of arbors, that's for sure. Later, right now I'm working on something else! 😉

  • @somebodyelse6673
    @somebodyelse6673 Год назад +1

    Do you think it improved things enough that a carbide insert tool would work?

    • @chrisstephens6673
      @chrisstephens6673 Год назад +1

      Why go for carbide insert tooling that costs money when they wear or chip it , when you can just grind the end of an HSS for yesrs and years before you need to spend more money on a new blade? 😊

    • @nbrworks
      @nbrworks  Год назад

      I don't have a carbide tool that fits in this tool holder, but I think it depends. If we're talking about a custom tool with a brazed carbide tip, I think it might work. If you were thinking about an insert tool, I think it wouldn't work very well. Normally those inserts are made with built in rake so that they sit horizontally in tool holders, also I'm not sure if they would resist very well to the 'hammering' this spring can cause on harder cuts. But, of course, I might be wrong.

    • @somebodyelse6673
      @somebodyelse6673 Год назад

      @@chrisstephens6673 - Have you ever tried to put a C-clip groove in the outside of a hardened bearing race with HSS? Turn down the shank on an endmill for clearance? Had to cut down a hardened dowel pin? Make a part out of pre-hardened stock? Cut off a piece of linear bearing rod?
      HSS is great when you can use it, but you can't always use it.

    • @chrisstephens6673
      @chrisstephens6673 Год назад

      @@somebodyelse6673 no argument there, yes I have cut many ciclip grooves on gearbox shafts and ground down a grooving tool to 1mm to do it, but for general use I use the same blade used in this video set at 7 degrees. For small stock I use a 1.6mm blade again set at 7 degrees to horizontal. Between those two parting tools most of my work is covered but I do keep a carbide insert holder in reserve.

  • @Δημήτρης-η4ρ
    @Δημήτρης-η4ρ Год назад

    i have the same bansaw but the blade always comes off when biting in the material, any tips for fixing this?

    • @nbrworks
      @nbrworks  Год назад

      Hi, I don't have that problem with mine. Do you have the bearings adjusted and the blade under tension? Sounds like something is loose.

  • @rok1475
    @rok1475 Год назад

    Change feed direction so the chips are thrown away from you and towards the column of the mill.

    • @nbrworks
      @nbrworks  Год назад

      Thanks for the advice!

    • @rok1475
      @rok1475 Год назад

      @@nbrworks for added safety have pieces of thin plexiglass that you “clamp” with a strong magnet to the front of the spindle housing. A piece that can cover the gap between the spindle and the workpiece or the vise will protect your eyes and skin from hot, sharp chips.
      Until you make a power feed drive for your mill, use gloves and wear long sleeves.

  • @doppler3237
    @doppler3237 Год назад

    really nice work

  • @lohikarhu734
    @lohikarhu734 Год назад

    I quite like your just-a-bit-humorous commentary!

  • @chifex87
    @chifex87 Год назад

    17:10 У нас на заводе в таком случае выжигают медным электродом на электроэрозионном станке

  • @pawekowalski7469
    @pawekowalski7469 Год назад

    Świetny projekt. Daję 👍 i subskrybcję 😀