Once again thank you Winky for inviting all of your friends from around the world to come and visit with you in your shop, always enjoyable! I always enjoy learning something new.
An essential basic principle of welding often neglected by welders that I have seen on RUclips, is to bevel one or both of the items to be welded. You welded a fillet weld and then removed most of it, leaving only what limited amount of penetration was created. Simply griding a bevel on the edge of the square stock produces a groove weld, which will be much stronger.
Yes, and I knew better. Thanks. After making the video I installed a couple screws just to prevent failure. I'll be posting an updated version with plans tomorrow if you're interested. It's also welded but the weld size is not an issue and I also provided a relief for better penetration.
well it's a lathe ruclips.net/user/postUgkxN9zrzkkhnjUF5PQbuA_B1gYdsfCu9k6z but it wasn't what i would have anticipated. Headstock, tailstock, carriage apron are manufactured from aluminum now not cast iron. The spindle diameter for the bearings is too small allowing for a few play in the spindle so I am using some blue Loctite to take out the play.
Dang Winky that was a great video. You are definitely right about the guys who came before us being clever. I had a feeling that there was going to be a second YEE -- HA with the results that you achieved. Showing the concept behind it with the paper cut out was very effective.
I got one of these when I bought an old Colchester Student. Originally I left it in the bin of parts ect that came with the lathe. I knew it was a parting tool holder, but I had carbide insert part off tools so I assumed it was redundant. After snapping so many inserts and breaking a holder I was getting frustrated and assumed the lathe was too old and worn out to do parting properly. After seeing this video and recognising the tool, I immediately tested it (HSS BLADE) and wow!! It just works beautifully! No grabs, smooth cut, even power feed! Medium lathe speed, slow cross slide feed, it just works so well. I have learnt not to assume now. Thank you very much for your content!
I've got one of those Armstrong cut off holders, languishing in a drawer since I got my qctp. I'll have to break it out and have a go. Interesting vid, thanks Winky!
Well, I dug it out and indeed it's an Armstrong but I guess an earlier model with no split, although the shape is similar with a tall section behind and above the blade. I could probably modify it with a split and to make it fit a qctp holder. No way would I go back to using the lantern holder that it's designed for!
Thanks for this. I started watching this saga on the second video, then the third but now having watched the first I at last understand the reasoning behind this design. Obvious in hindsight but I needed to be walked through the idea as this video does. Much appreciated.
No matter how carefully I plan, there's always something I overlook. Comforting to see you do this as well. I like your work. Nice video work too. Thanks.
I have a CVA 1A lathe (1960), it has the best cut off attachment point ever. the cross slide has a dovetail on top at the back so you can run a second toolpost or in my case I run a 1/8th inch Armstrong parting tool on it upside down permanently. It's the most rigid set up I've ever used on a lathe of this size. I have 50 years experience as a machinist/engineer and taught shop in a major UK university for 15 of those years.
Running on the back side like that is great. My lathe is not really set up for that. Reverse is also good but a screw on chuck is a problem in reverse.
You may have been better off to cut a small 1/2" relief on the back of the tool and then use countersunk screws run into threads in the tool. The relief would take the torque and the screws would hold it tight.
Good work and a very interesting tool design. I notice your accent, sounds like home to me. Maryland or Pennsylvania, maybe Virginia. I bought another lathe a few weeks ago and have been accumulating some of the odds and ends I "need" for my small hobby type jobs. Already I miss my old, much bigger and more powerful lathe. Such is life. Thanks for the video, you made everything very clear so that anyone could replicate that tool holder.
Learn something new every day. Interesting cut off tool holder. Regarding the welding, consider putting a generous chamfer on the square stock prior to welding. It will create a v-groove where the square stock lays up against the main body of the tool holder. Then you can weld into the v-groove and not worry about cutting off your weld later to provide good fit to the holder.
I am impressed as well!!!. Too bad we aren't neighbors, I could easily teach you to weld since that was my primary profession for 40 years. I was a welding instructor. You could fine turn my machining. Great video down to earth and not complicated at all. Thanks so much.
There is a better one after this video... I think I need to rename the videos. The plans are in the comment area in the other video (link) ruclips.net/video/p93bUqpdWMg/видео.htmlsi=Twa3xwPxaxkKjluM
I'm surprised it worked so well because of the thickness of the plate you used I'd have used 1/4" or 3/8" not 1/2" BUT it worked fantastic ! I tried a cutoff yesterday with my cheapo chinese cut off tool with a carbide insert in it .... you guessed it it grabbed and bent the bottom part and busted the insert... i said fooie on it and cut it with the HF band saw ! which works a treat now that I have your plate in it ! thank you.
Cut off is tricky. Lots of variables. I made a duplicate of this holder and can't get it to do as well. I'll figure it out but it kind of surprised me.
Wow, that's was impressive, it looks like I need to clone your cut-off tool, I've made many attempts to do cutoffs, I've purchased several types of tools looking for that magic tool, and have yet made a satisfactory cutoff on my lathe a 1935 Leblond 12" round top that I restored in 2018. This fall I took the headstock down, crossfeed, and apron complete down looking for something I missed in the restoration and have not found a smoking gun but, I made some minor improvements. It's back together now but I have had the heart to attempt a cutoff, my excuse is all the cutoff tools I have been wrecked. I do believe I will make your Armstrong tool first and then try it! Thanks, Wink!
This tool works fantastic.... however, I can't seem to duplicate it. I made a second one and it chatters bad. Here's an older video I made on cut off. ruclips.net/video/B6NMY73eOxU/видео.html
We had those Armstrong tool holders in high school shop class where almost everything was military surplus from WWII. The lathes and mills had brass plates stating they were US government property on loan to the school.
Nice video, I had not seen this style holder before. Retired welder here trying to learn machining. On the welding, you could have beveled the corners you welded then when removing the excess weld you would have retained more strength. Thanks for the videos, very helpful and informative.
I made a second one and it chatters bad and I can't figure out why. I'll figure it out but right now I'm stumped. I'll do a follow up. Maybe I'll have a more predictable design.
Dear Winky. Thanks a lot for this video! Cutting off always was russian roulette to me and I never got my head around the reasons. Now it's pretty clear thanks to you! Concerning the vibes on your second attempt: Well, it's about vibes - every single item in this world has got its inherent resonant frequency (frequencies to be correct) depending on the mass, ridgidity and geometrie. Change one part of the equation just a little and it changes everything. A dedicated engineer might be able to solve the equation for not hitting on for speciffic revs and diameter but it might be easier and quicker just to try out. The importent thing is, that the edge wont tend to jam anymore with this holder! You really made my day!
Thanks for the comment. Yes you are exactly correct. Everything has a resonance and speed, feed mass, rigidity or flex are all part of the equation. On my new tool design I moved the point of flex toward the cutting edge. This makes the tool more reactive. It pulls out of the cut more when it deflects. I suspect trail and error is way easier than the math involved. Here's the second tool. It works GREAT! ruclips.net/video/s9qcd5-wj3c/видео.html
Very nice, that's going to get copied! I've been thinking about making a parting tool holder for a while! The original clamping set up pulled through from the other side, that would give more chuck clearance. Cheers, Matthew
Thanks Mark. Was that just mild steel stock that you used? Seems completely counter-intuitive to make a holder designed to flex like that. Undeniable results though.
Yes it does. However, if you think about it, there will always be flex. If you are lucky enough to have a lathe that is extremely rigid the amount of flex isn't an issue. The trick to this tool is where the flex takes place which is over the top of the tool. As I'm sure you saw in the video this holder tends to pull the tool away from the work. The question is, where is the ideal place for the flex and how flexible is needed. I made a second blade holder just like the first and it did not work. Despite all my efforts I can not figure out why. So I made a new design with the pivot point closer to the point of cutting. This makes the tool retract more when it flexes. I made two... one was a test and the second was for making the video and they BOTH worked! I'll post it Friday. It's also much easier to make.
tks for posting. Very impressive, so I built one very similar but without welding. works ok so far but needs fine tuning. eg. height needs to be spot on. tool sharpness is important. and maybe I’ll put in a screw to limit spring travel.
Thanks Douglas. I actually have a new design that's easier to make and works a little better. The video will be posted tomorrow along with the plans. Thanks (2/4/22)
The important thing to remember about old timers is that they have crossed this bridge long before you got to it. The best way to cross it has already proved itself.
Wow! Glad I watched this. Now I have to build one for my 9" Southbend. I like some of the suggestions below for attaching the 1/2" bar for the tool post; especially milling a shallow channel on the tool post side to set the bar in. Two flathead screws to fasten the bar to the tool holder and your golden. Looks like you made your holder out of cold rolled. Anyhow, you did an excellent job making this.
I made a second one and it doesn't work as well. Apparently I got lucky. I'll figure it out and post a second video. You might want to wait and see what I come up with. Thanks!
Were you still using power feed with the second. If speeds and feeds are correct, power feed gives a more equal load on the tool, hand feeding can be hit or miss allowing variable flex and cut.
@@chrisstephens6673 - Yeah... I always use autofeed. I made a new holder design this morning. The same concept but much easier to make and works perfect. Video on Friday... plus plans.
Awesome work! Been following your parting exploits, and I agree this is the best one yet. I think I'll be replicating this somehow, for my 7X mini lathe. Cheers!
Winky, the original clamping bolt head underside was tapered. As you tightened the nut it pulled the bolt head inwards clamping the blade tight back against the holder, it also forced the blade down tight against the base of the holder. Regards from Australia.
Thanks - Yeah I knew that. The reason I didn't do that is I didn't want to bolt to damage the top of the blade. The blade I used is concave with fragile edges. It's by far the best blade I have ever used. If the blade fits the slot well (which it does) all the force will be downward, it will never move.
I always enjoy your videos and your unique means to achieve a turning or cutting. I use the FOR by Eccentric Engineering which also uses the T shaped blade. While it is designed to be used in the QCTP it is designed to be used with the Lathe running in reverse so the chips fall out of the workpiece thus keeping the workforce clear of the removed chips thus minimizing the clogging and some of the risks to the tool digging in.
Thanks Dave. Hey, something weird. I made a second tool like this and it chattered terrible and I could not figure out why... so I made a new design. It works great and it's much easier to make. I guess these things happen for a reason.
very clever idea. I was (am) going to make a rear toolpost but this design has me confused. Have to find the Tom Lipton video and watch this also. Cant weld so will have to think of some other method of mounting it
On a standard setup the point of flexing is normally the compound so the blade digs into the cut when it flexes. With this design the point of flex is where the hole is drilled about the blade. When it flexes the blade pulls away from the cut. Tom's video is good.
Great job, Mark. I'll just comment a few things, as a certified welder in MIG and TIG. That weld will almost certainly crack and break under heavy stress. Your welder does not have enough power to penetrate as deep as you're going to want for a tool like this. And then you milled off 90% of the weld bond. My recommendations are 1) you need to clamp your work down - maybe it's time to build a proper welding table? 2) When you need clearance, bevel the areas needing welded, so if you have to mill off anything, you're milling off excess - in this case, had you beveled the corners of the square stock that were sitting next to the blade holder, your weld could penetrate into that bevel. And lastly, 3) I would recommend getting rid of your current welding machine and invest in a decent synergic inverter MIG welder - something like the Primeweld MIG 180 or even the Titanium MIG 170 (Harbor Freight). You'll be amazed at how much a better welder you will become using a machine with better technology. Looking forward to your next project!
Thanks for the great comment. I totally agree on the weld and I should have at least cut a bevel on the square for better penetration. I'm going to install a couple flat head screws for security. In hindsight I should have milled a shallow slot on the back side and bolted it together. I agree about the welder and table. Just having the table taller would be huge. My biggest problem is space and too many interests. I'd love to have a TIG welder too. I was thinking my table matched my welder very well actually! Both are very inadequate! Hehe
@@WinkysWorkshop I feel your pain on too many interests.The curse of being a maker. I have a 2' x 4' table from CertiFlat. It's not overly big, but is extremely flat and has holes laser cut in for positioning and clamping. Check out the lineup from PrimeWeld. I have their TIG225 - excellent machine. Gets great reviews. I'm waiting for them to come out with a bigger MIG machine (250+ amps) and will then likely replace my Hobart 175.
@@MyLilMule - I have a feeling that I'd use the TIG a lot more than the MIG. Most of what I weld is small and I'm usually not in a hurry. Do you think I'd be happy with their multi-process welder? The lack of AC TIG is probably not an issue.
@@kevinunderwood2931 I do need to upgrade! I'm on the fence about AC TIG. Most the multipurpose machines don't have the AC you need for aluminum. I'm guessing I can do without it.
Ben battling the cut off chatter right along with you and this is interesting idea...instead of trying to ridged everything letting the tool take up the vibration to counter it is quite genius. I'm going to try and make something for the hobby lathe along these lines.. cheers!~!
Thanks! I could feel this flex a little but could not see it. I don't think my 1/2 HP lathe could flex it that much but obviously it's doing what it is supposed to do. I think I saw that video.... maybe 3 to 5 years ago.
@@deemstyle Thanks for the link. I remember seeing those Gooseneck holders before but never thought about why they were made like that. You are right, it has the same effect. I sometimes get chatter cutting threads and acme threads are almost imposible! I see another tool holder in my future! Thanks!
@@deemstyle - I remember seeing that video a few years ago. I wanted to see it used! Oh well... still a great video. I think I may make one for threading. Acme threads are a pain. I'll bet this tool would work great!
Hi Mr Winky, I have one of those Armstrong cut off holders but never been able to get blades for it so never used it, I used to have problems with parting off but somebody told me it’s all about making sure your tool is dead centre and constant pressure, now I part of stainless steel with ease. Some help with you welding techniques move the torch left to right and watch your puddle. Good job going to make one and try it out 🤗👴🏻
Cut off problems have a major amount of culprits. Spindle diameter, chuck overhang, how the compound is made etc. I always use autofeed with cut off. In the past I have had situations were faster feed is better than slow. Also slower lathe speed... or faster. Larger more ridged lates are way more forgiving. With small lathes you are working with multiple resonances. Probably the biggest problem with most small older lathes is the depth of the chuck. The spindle size is not adequate to handle work 4.5 inches from the bearing. I suspect this cut off tool holder will resolve most these issues. The old chucks that came with these lathes worked way better... very shallow. As for welding... I used to travel the other way but the best welder I ever saw pushed the tip. I can't say my welding improved by doing this but it doesn't seem to matter for me. I used to be good at stick welding and yes watching the pool helped. Mig is happening too fast.... just don't see it. My biggest problem is being dead on center.
@@WinkysWorkshop I have a 500w shop light I put near my welding and shine into the area - it's just below tripping the autohelmet - that way I can see everything with the helmet down and me in position before pulling the trigger. If I lose my spot - just let go of the trigger - can see again in the quick pause-
Very good video, sure was ver good, u r very creative did a very good job with all of the building, I would like to build one. I haven’t finished the other one u made first one u showed. Very good job
I've seen the Armstrong style cutoff tool with the flexion in it before but never used one. That turned out to be a very effective tool, I may have to try one of those at some point if I can't get my parting issues figured out on my import lathe, lol!
Hello Everett, I have a new design I'll be posting tomorrow. It seems to work well and it's a lot more simple to make. Oddly, I made a second holder of this design and it acted like a tuning fork. Apparently the tool was slightly different in weight or rigidity but I never did figure out how to fix it. So far this new design is great!
That was super interesting. I wonder if the design could work on a soggy mini lathe? 🤔, always a problem with those machines made from Chinese rubber 😉. A project for spring me thinks. Thanks for another great idea.
It's still working well but here's something weird. I made a second one and it chatters bad and I can't figure out why. I'll figure it out but right now I'm stumped.
Amazed this works- looks like a recipe for chatter. Guess the thickness of the steel used reduces the movement- and that might match the mount flexing, giving a neutral overall movement. Fortuitous.
The trick to this design is that the blade pulls back when deflected. The feed rate and speeds are a little finicky. When the blade first contacts the work it lets out a scream (high pitch chatter) for about one second until the tool is compressed a little.
@@Morkmtw I understand the principle of unloading the cutter by deflection- my concern is that this is a dynamic system, with feed altering the load over time, and the mass of the assembly (sort of 'unsprung weight') acts as a mechanical inductance. Depending on values, oscillation can result- I.e. chatter. Without a lot of analysis, this may be a matter of luck when choosing dimensions.
@@Tensquaremetreworkshop Yep, I agree. The right feed rate is critical and the amount of stick out, width of blade, strength of spring all play a part. I will say however that the I have been using the final version without much issue for quite a while now. Yesterday I extended the blade and cut 2-inch stock and aside from the momentary (and deafening) scream it the start of the cut it was without issue. It may not be perfect and there maybe a better combination but it works. I also made a solid direct mount design but it was more time consuming to use. It eliminated the tool post and mounted to the compound. it worked near prefect also but without the scream! Ha
@@WinkysWorkshop That suggests the carriage flexion and the holder flexion may be fighting each other... Adding a resistive load (friction) may damp the resonance. Moving it above the audible range may also be possible. Do you clamp your carriage while parting?
@@Tensquaremetreworkshop It's the same as moving chalk on a chalk board. It makes a noise until you apply more pressure. Yes, I lock the carriage although it acts the same with unlocked. The pressure is 100% downward and there is no chance of movement. I lock it to avoid the possibility of bumping the carriage handle and moving it laterally. The screech is only an annoyance. I sometimes start the cut rapidly before engaging the power feed. And yes, there probably is flexing in the compound until the downward pressure on the blade fully removes clearances in the dovetail slides and also partly compresses the flex in the tool. The tool is not perfect but beats the heck out of the standard blade holder. No planetary alignment required.
Pretty awesome! I may have to build one for myself, you could use 2 button head screws on top and bottom of the cutoff blade to hold it in place to increase the clearance
That's a good idea. The only concern if that the top of the blade is concave and has a cutting ends on the side. the screw might damage the blade edge.
@@johnnym1320 The problem is, the blade is slightly recessed and the top is larger. The blade is T shaped. The top 3/16 can not be clamps because the recess behind it is slightly deeper than the blade.
Mark, that was awesome. I'm gonna have to make one as I'm working on a cutoff tool shootout video that compares various cutoff tools and holding setups. Gilles ;)
Cool... here's something weird. I made a second one and it chatters bad and I can't figure out why. I'll figure it out but right now I'm stumped. If you make one and it works let me know.
Nice work. You also could drill and tap and counter bore two screw on the weld side into your tool holder for additional holding power. To take some pressure off of the weld. Also the .500 x .625 is a great idea. I really like the holder. I think I'll make one myself. Great content. Thank you, EM.
If you have a lathe that runs in reverse that works well for the same reason this tool works. Many older lathes have screw on chucks however. Parting from behind and upside down works well too but many cross slides don't extend for enough back.
Thank you for the video. There is always something to learn. The weld would have been stronger if you had ground a chamfer ( half 'V' weld prep) on the square stock you were welding on.
@@WinkysWorkshop Sorry, no; when I said "I just made.." I was referring to the simplistic method of construction, rather than meaning recently, it was probably 20 years ago. I don't even think I still have the tool, I think someone chucked it in a clear-out. I used a green grit grinding wheel in a Dremel type tool to put a little dip in the carbide tip to "crimp" the chips (so they are narrow enough not to jam in the grove ) this also seemed to work well.
@@WinkysWorkshop most of the youtube examples I've seen have been from a Russian or at least Slavic channel so I can't really tell you much more. It is an amazing mount and now that I've seen your video I'm going to give it a go.
I don't like the clamping mechanism for the cutter since it means you need lots more clearance between the chuck and the cut-off line. However...the total LACK of any chatter at all was impressive. I think I'll have to try making one of these. What kind of steel did you use?
I was thinking it may have been better to weld the square piece by drilling holes where the tool goes, welding the square bar via the holes drilled, and then some cleanup. BTW: That bandsaw attachment is something I have to build for my bandsaw. Great idea...
That bandsaw idea was given to me by a viewer. I agree, it was fantastic! 2 x 2 tubing would be fine. I just had the 3 x 3. Your welding idea is good. I like it. However, I made a new tool after this one that is both easier to make and works better. Check it out ruclips.net/video/s9qcd5-wj3c/видео.html
Hello Sir, really interesting concept. I have a very small mini lathe, and i am really have problems doing parting, and i would like to try to make this blade holder, but maybe a bit smaller for my little late. Would you, by any chance have made a drawing with dimensions of the tool, as guideline for such a blade holder?
Hi Winky, great result. One thing I noticed on the blade clearance on the back half, you made allowance above but the original seemed to have several mm below as well which it seemed you didn't replicate. Might be worth widening that part as well.
Once again thank you Winky for inviting all of your friends from around the world to come and visit with you in your shop, always enjoyable! I always enjoy learning something new.
Your welcome... however, I made a second and it doesn't work as well and I'm not sure why. I'll figure it out and post my results. Thanks
An essential basic principle of welding often neglected by welders that I have seen on RUclips, is to bevel one or both of the items to be welded. You welded a fillet weld and then removed most of it, leaving only what limited amount of penetration was created. Simply griding a bevel on the edge of the square stock produces a groove weld, which will be much stronger.
Yes, and I knew better. Thanks. After making the video I installed a couple screws just to prevent failure. I'll be posting an updated version with plans tomorrow if you're interested. It's also welded but the weld size is not an issue and I also provided a relief for better penetration.
well it's a lathe ruclips.net/user/postUgkxN9zrzkkhnjUF5PQbuA_B1gYdsfCu9k6z but it wasn't what i would have anticipated. Headstock, tailstock, carriage apron are manufactured from aluminum now not cast iron. The spindle diameter for the bearings is too small allowing for a few play in the spindle so I am using some blue Loctite to take out the play.
True
Great idea. I always have issues cutting off on my lathe. I'll have to give this a try. Thanks for sharing.
You'll love it!
I liked your vertical sawing attachment. Very nifty. Also you did a great job of explaining your PT approach. Thankyou.
Thanks! Be sure and check out the next follow up videos on the tool.
Dang Winky that was a great video. You are definitely right about the guys who came before us being clever. I had a feeling that there was going to be a second YEE -- HA with the results that you achieved. Showing the concept behind it with the paper cut out was very effective.
Thanks Andy! I can't figure out why the design got lost.
I got one of these when I bought an old Colchester Student. Originally I left it in the bin of parts ect that came with the lathe. I knew it was a parting tool holder, but I had carbide insert part off tools so I assumed it was redundant.
After snapping so many inserts and breaking a holder I was getting frustrated and assumed the lathe was too old and worn out to do parting properly.
After seeing this video and recognising the tool, I immediately tested it (HSS BLADE) and wow!! It just works beautifully! No grabs, smooth cut, even power feed!
Medium lathe speed, slow cross slide feed, it just works so well.
I have learnt not to assume now. Thank you very much for your content!
Isn't it amazing that these methods get lost?
I've got one of those Armstrong cut off holders, languishing in a drawer since I got my qctp. I'll have to break it out and have a go. Interesting vid, thanks Winky!
Cool. Let me know how it does.
Well, I dug it out and indeed it's an Armstrong but I guess an earlier model with no split, although the shape is similar with a tall section behind and above the blade. I could probably modify it with a split and to make it fit a qctp holder. No way would I go back to using the lantern holder that it's designed for!
@@thaumaturgicresearchcounci4180 - They made one called a Goose Neck that basicly did the same thing. Maybe that's what you have.
I've always had issues parting steel. Yours works great, have to give it a try!
I redesigned this tool. It's more predictable and way easier to make. The video will be posted tomorrow with the plans. (2/4/22)
@@WinkysWorkshop I’ll be watching!
Gday Winky, this new parting tool works a treat, all the theory adds up, great job mate, Cheers
Except I made a second one and it chatters??? Can't seem to figure out why... but I will. Thanks
Finally I understand why that was designed like that. I never heard an explanation. You did a nice job making that.
Thanks... I'll post a slightly better version and drawings Friday.
Like that! Thanks for sharing 👍 🇬🇧
Glad you enjoyed it
Thanks for this. I started watching this saga on the second video, then the third but now having watched the first I at last understand the reasoning behind this design. Obvious in hindsight but I needed to be walked through the idea as this video does. Much appreciated.
I'm glad you went back. I probably should have repeated he info in part one in the second video.
No matter how carefully I plan, there's always something I overlook. Comforting to see you do this as well. I like your work. Nice video work too. Thanks.
Yes! Thank you!
That's normal, isn't it?
🙂@@clintchapman4319
i like it, i have had many mishaps parting, broken parts, broken tools, i like the look of this, a project may be on the cards
Be sure and watch the following videos. I have a better design that is easier to make
That’s good thinking and good work, well done and thanks for sharing Mark.
Thanks Kevin.
Works better than any I've tried. Thanks for the video
Great to hear. There is another video with a better tool and a link to the plans in the description.
I have a CVA 1A lathe (1960), it has the best cut off attachment point ever. the cross slide has a dovetail on top at the back so you can run a second toolpost or in my case I run a 1/8th inch Armstrong parting tool on it upside down permanently. It's the most rigid set up I've ever used on a lathe of this size. I have 50 years experience as a machinist/engineer and taught shop in a major UK university for 15 of those years.
Running on the back side like that is great. My lathe is not really set up for that. Reverse is also good but a screw on chuck is a problem in reverse.
@@WinkysWorkshop Running it upside down at the back means you don't reverse for cutting, the bonus is the swarf just falls down into the tray.
@@arfamortis1 Exactly, my lathe can not run in reverse AND it can not mount the tool on the back side. The cross slide is not sent up for it.
Guess Armstrong knew what they were doing.
Excellent!
I agree. I have another video too. It has a better design ruclips.net/video/s9qcd5-wj3c/видео.html
You may have been better off to cut a small 1/2" relief on the back of the tool and then use countersunk screws run into threads in the tool. The relief would take the torque and the screws would hold it tight.
If you are talking about bolting the bar on I absolutely agree. Bolt it in a slot maybe 3/32 deep.
Exactly what I was thinking
@@PaulCade Me too! 👍
(after watching the video) ... putting the 1/2" square bar in a shallow slot and retaining the bar with csk screws - instead of welding.
Or try keyhole welding. Drill holes in either part and weld them together through the holes.
I like it too. That's just great, I can see an end to my parting off problems soon.
Hopefully, be sure and watch part 3
Good work and a very interesting tool design. I notice your accent, sounds like home to me. Maryland or Pennsylvania, maybe Virginia. I bought another lathe a few weeks ago and have been accumulating some of the odds and ends I "need" for my small hobby type jobs. Already I miss my old, much bigger and more powerful lathe. Such is life. Thanks for the video, you made everything very clear so that anyone could replicate that tool holder.
Thanks Ed, the next video highlights a better version.
Learn something new every day. Interesting cut off tool holder. Regarding the welding, consider putting a generous chamfer on the square stock prior to welding. It will create a v-groove where the square stock lays up against the main body of the tool holder. Then you can weld into the v-groove and not worry about cutting off your weld later to provide good fit to the holder.
What I was thinking too.....
Yeah, I knew better on the weld. I'll have an updated version of the tool out Friday. It will be way easier to make.
Great job. I like that!
Thanks!
I am impressed as well!!!. Too bad we aren't neighbors, I could easily teach you to weld since that was my primary profession for 40 years. I was a welding instructor. You could fine turn my machining. Great video down to earth and not complicated at all. Thanks so much.
I'll have a new design with plans posted Friday. I'd love to have welding lessons! Ha Thanks for the thought!
Are plans available for the Very best cut off blade holder? I sure would like to build one. Tnx
There is a better one after this video... I think I need to rename the videos. The plans are in the comment area in the other video (link) ruclips.net/video/p93bUqpdWMg/видео.htmlsi=Twa3xwPxaxkKjluM
very well done ! thanks for the schooling ! Skip
Thanks for watching!
The feed rate was impressive. Nice job!
Thanks! The following video shows a newer version.
WOW! This is for me the answer to cut off with a small lathe. Thanks
Your welcome... the plans will be posted next weeks so check back
I'm surprised it worked so well because of the thickness of the plate you used I'd have used 1/4" or 3/8" not 1/2" BUT it worked fantastic !
I tried a cutoff yesterday with my cheapo chinese cut off tool with a carbide insert in it ....
you guessed it it grabbed and bent the bottom part and busted the insert...
i said fooie on it and cut it with the HF band saw ! which works a treat now that I have your plate in it ! thank you.
Cut off is tricky. Lots of variables. I made a duplicate of this holder and can't get it to do as well. I'll figure it out but it kind of surprised me.
Great video. Nice work. Great design. Thank you for sharing.
Thanks, be sure and watch the follow up video
Dang it. Another tool to build. Thanks a bunch.
Your welcome. I'll post the plans next week.
Wow, that's was impressive, it looks like I need to clone your cut-off tool, I've made many attempts to do cutoffs, I've purchased several types of tools looking for that magic tool, and have yet made a satisfactory cutoff on my lathe a 1935 Leblond 12" round top that I restored in 2018. This fall I took the headstock down, crossfeed, and apron complete down looking for something I missed in the restoration and have not found a smoking gun but, I made some minor improvements. It's back together now but I have had the heart to attempt a cutoff, my excuse is all the cutoff tools I have been wrecked. I do believe I will make your Armstrong tool first and then try it! Thanks, Wink!
This tool works fantastic.... however, I can't seem to duplicate it. I made a second one and it chatters bad. Here's an older video I made on cut off. ruclips.net/video/B6NMY73eOxU/видео.html
This is how to make the tool holder ruclips.net/video/HGAQHjzgs9c/видео.html
Holy cow! That turned out great. I'm inspired to build my own after seeing your results.
Wait a week or two. I made a second and it doesn't work as well and I'm not sure why. I'll figure it out and post my results. Thanks
That's a good idea. I should give it a go one of these days.
Thanks, I made another one and it doesn't work as well. Weird huh? I'll figure it out.
Great cut off tool build there mr. Winky. Thanks for the video.
You bet! I hope you are feeling better!
We had those Armstrong tool holders in high school shop class where almost everything was military surplus from WWII. The lathes and mills had brass plates stating they were US government property on loan to the school.
Cool... love the old machines!
Nice video, I had not seen this style holder before. Retired welder here trying to learn machining. On the welding, you could have beveled the corners you welded then when removing the excess weld you would have retained more strength. Thanks for the videos, very helpful and informative.
Yes a v groove would have been better. The next video has a better design.
looks great ....... I'll add that to my todo list! Thanks for the info 👍👍😎👍👍
I made a second one and it chatters bad and I can't figure out why. I'll figure it out but right now I'm stumped. I'll do a follow up. Maybe I'll have a more predictable design.
Dear Winky. Thanks a lot for this video!
Cutting off always was russian roulette to me and I never got my head around the reasons. Now it's pretty clear thanks to you!
Concerning the vibes on your second attempt: Well, it's about vibes - every single item in this world has got its inherent resonant frequency (frequencies to be correct) depending on the mass, ridgidity and geometrie. Change one part of the equation just a little and it changes everything. A dedicated engineer might be able to solve the equation for not hitting on for speciffic revs and diameter but it might be easier and quicker just to try out. The importent thing is, that the edge wont tend to jam anymore with this holder!
You really made my day!
Thanks for the comment. Yes you are exactly correct. Everything has a resonance and speed, feed mass, rigidity or flex are all part of the equation. On my new tool design I moved the point of flex toward the cutting edge. This makes the tool more reactive. It pulls out of the cut more when it deflects. I suspect trail and error is way easier than the math involved. Here's the second tool. It works GREAT! ruclips.net/video/s9qcd5-wj3c/видео.html
Very interesting. Thanks for sharing, Winky
Your welcome - more to come
Mark, that was a nice little project and worked as expected, nice and smooth. Will have to keep that design in mind.
I'll have a new design out Friday with some plans. The new design works better and it's a lot easier to make.
Very nice, that's going to get copied! I've been thinking about making a parting tool holder for a while! The original clamping set up pulled through from the other side, that would give more chuck clearance. Cheers, Matthew
ruclips.net/user/shorts6OG63fH5uPw?feature=share watch this one
Ha... I made a copy and it didn't work as well. Still trying to figure out why!
@@WinkysWorkshop i made mine from an old leaf spring it works well with me.
@@mrayco That's Great!
Great job! Many greetings from Austria.
Cool! Thanks!
Perfect cut .
Be sure and watch next video... its a better design
Thanks Mark. Was that just mild steel stock that you used? Seems completely counter-intuitive to make a holder designed to flex like that. Undeniable results though.
Yes it does. However, if you think about it, there will always be flex. If you are lucky enough to have a lathe that is extremely rigid the amount of flex isn't an issue. The trick to this tool is where the flex takes place which is over the top of the tool. As I'm sure you saw in the video this holder tends to pull the tool away from the work. The question is, where is the ideal place for the flex and how flexible is needed. I made a second blade holder just like the first and it did not work. Despite all my efforts I can not figure out why. So I made a new design with the pivot point closer to the point of cutting. This makes the tool retract more when it flexes. I made two... one was a test and the second was for making the video and they BOTH worked! I'll post it Friday. It's also much easier to make.
tks for posting.
Very impressive, so I built one very similar
but without welding.
works ok so far but needs fine tuning. eg.
height needs to be spot on. tool sharpness is important. and maybe I’ll put in a screw to limit spring travel.
Hey, this tool has sort of evolved over time My current tool in better and easier to make. Check it out. ruclips.net/video/KiLHHrG3Y3I/видео.html
I just might have to make one, this is awesome
Thanks Douglas. I actually have a new design that's easier to make and works a little better. The video will be posted tomorrow along with the plans. Thanks (2/4/22)
The important thing to remember about old timers is that they have crossed this bridge long before you got to it. The best way to cross it has already proved itself.
Certainly this is true most the time.
Wow! Glad I watched this. Now I have to build one for my 9" Southbend. I like some of the suggestions below for attaching the 1/2" bar for the tool post; especially milling a shallow channel on the tool post side to set the bar in. Two flathead screws to fasten the bar to the tool holder and your golden. Looks like you made your holder out of cold rolled. Anyhow, you did an excellent job making this.
Thanks for watching.
I have a couple of the Armstrong cut off tools and they have served me well. I really like your idea and will be making some. Great idea
I made a second one and it doesn't work as well. Apparently I got lucky. I'll figure it out and post a second video. You might want to wait and see what I come up with. Thanks!
Were you still using power feed with the second. If speeds and feeds are correct, power feed gives a more equal load on the tool, hand feeding can be hit or miss allowing variable flex and cut.
@@chrisstephens6673 - Yeah... I always use autofeed. I made a new holder design this morning. The same concept but much easier to make and works perfect. Video on Friday... plus plans.
another great on Mark
Glad you think so! There are two follow up videos with with an updated design if you're interested. They are easier to make and work better too.
Awesome work! Been following your parting exploits, and I agree this is the best one yet. I think I'll be replicating this somehow, for my 7X mini lathe. Cheers!
Wait about a week. I just made a second one and it's not working as well. It's identical for the most part. I'll figure it out.
Looks awesome Winky!!!
Thanks Danny!
Winky, the original clamping bolt head underside was tapered. As you tightened the nut it pulled the bolt head inwards clamping the blade tight back against the holder, it also forced the blade down tight against the base of the holder. Regards from Australia.
Thanks - Yeah I knew that. The reason I didn't do that is I didn't want to bolt to damage the top of the blade. The blade I used is concave with fragile edges. It's by far the best blade I have ever used. If the blade fits the slot well (which it does) all the force will be downward, it will never move.
I always enjoy your videos and your unique means to achieve a turning or cutting.
I use the FOR by Eccentric Engineering which also uses the T shaped blade. While it is designed to be used in the QCTP it is designed to be used with the Lathe running in reverse so the chips fall out of the workpiece thus keeping the workforce clear of the removed chips thus minimizing the clogging and some of the risks to the tool digging in.
I like the reverse idea or from behind but I have a screw on chuck and a cross slide that can't go from the back.
Another fine project!
Thanks Dave. Hey, something weird. I made a second tool like this and it chattered terrible and I could not figure out why... so I made a new design. It works great and it's much easier to make. I guess these things happen for a reason.
very clever idea. I was (am) going to make a rear toolpost but this design has me confused. Have to find the Tom Lipton video and watch this also. Cant weld so will have to think of some other method of mounting it
On a standard setup the point of flexing is normally the compound so the blade digs into the cut when it flexes. With this design the point of flex is where the hole is drilled about the blade. When it flexes the blade pulls away from the cut. Tom's video is good.
Great idea and build!
Thanks!
Great job, Mark. I'll just comment a few things, as a certified welder in MIG and TIG. That weld will almost certainly crack and break under heavy stress. Your welder does not have enough power to penetrate as deep as you're going to want for a tool like this. And then you milled off 90% of the weld bond. My recommendations are 1) you need to clamp your work down - maybe it's time to build a proper welding table? 2) When you need clearance, bevel the areas needing welded, so if you have to mill off anything, you're milling off excess - in this case, had you beveled the corners of the square stock that were sitting next to the blade holder, your weld could penetrate into that bevel. And lastly, 3) I would recommend getting rid of your current welding machine and invest in a decent synergic inverter MIG welder - something like the Primeweld MIG 180 or even the Titanium MIG 170 (Harbor Freight). You'll be amazed at how much a better welder you will become using a machine with better technology. Looking forward to your next project!
Thanks for the great comment. I totally agree on the weld and I should have at least cut a bevel on the square for better penetration. I'm going to install a couple flat head screws for security. In hindsight I should have milled a shallow slot on the back side and bolted it together. I agree about the welder and table. Just having the table taller would be huge. My biggest problem is space and too many interests. I'd love to have a TIG welder too. I was thinking my table matched my welder very well actually! Both are very inadequate! Hehe
@@WinkysWorkshop I feel your pain on too many interests.The curse of being a maker. I have a 2' x 4' table from CertiFlat. It's not overly big, but is extremely flat and has holes laser cut in for positioning and clamping. Check out the lineup from PrimeWeld. I have their TIG225 - excellent machine. Gets great reviews. I'm waiting for them to come out with a bigger MIG machine (250+ amps) and will then likely replace my Hobart 175.
@@MyLilMule - I have a feeling that I'd use the TIG a lot more than the MIG. Most of what I weld is small and I'm usually not in a hurry. Do you think I'd be happy with their multi-process welder? The lack of AC TIG is probably not an issue.
@@WinkysWorkshop Lincoln’s 210mp multipurpose machine will do mig, tig and stick. However, it does not come with the tig torch. I really like mine.
@@kevinunderwood2931 I do need to upgrade! I'm on the fence about AC TIG. Most the multipurpose machines don't have the AC you need for aluminum. I'm guessing I can do without it.
Excellent video... subbed.. nice idea on the band saw
Thanks, I made one more video on this also... a modification.
Ben battling the cut off chatter right along with you and this is interesting idea...instead of trying to ridged everything letting the tool take up the vibration to counter it is quite genius. I'm going to try and make something for the hobby lathe along these lines.. cheers!~!
The pivot point it the secrete. It flexes above the blade so the tool pulls away from the cut. Thanks and good luck.
Worked very nice! Gotta make myself on of these!
I've had some problems duplicating this tool but for now here's another video I made on cutoff ruclips.net/video/HGAQHjzgs9c/видео.html
Great work, thanks for that.
Your welcome, I'll be posting an updated version with the plans tomorrow. It works great and it's also easier to make.
cool project. Tom Lipton showed an Armstrong cutoff being used and pushing it till it flexes. Did what it was designed to do.
Thanks! I could feel this flex a little but could not see it. I don't think my 1/2 HP lathe could flex it that much but obviously it's doing what it is supposed to do. I think I saw that video.... maybe 3 to 5 years ago.
I wasn't able to find any OxTool video showing a cut off, but I did find this one which is very relevant: ruclips.net/video/KETVR9qtEmY/видео.html
And Mr. Pete show an Armstrong gooseneck holder which is the same concept: ruclips.net/video/9y0MmvscBzg/видео.html
@@deemstyle Thanks for the link. I remember seeing those Gooseneck holders before but never thought about why they were made like that. You are right, it has the same effect. I sometimes get chatter cutting threads and acme threads are almost imposible! I see another tool holder in my future! Thanks!
@@deemstyle - I remember seeing that video a few years ago. I wanted to see it used! Oh well... still a great video. I think I may make one for threading. Acme threads are a pain. I'll bet this tool would work great!
Very interesting project Mark!
Thanks! I was surprised how well it works.
Hi Mr Winky, I have one of those Armstrong cut off holders but never been able to get blades for it so never used it, I used to have problems with parting off but somebody told me it’s all about making sure your tool is dead centre and constant pressure, now I part of stainless steel with ease.
Some help with you welding techniques move the torch left to right and watch your puddle. Good job going to make one and try it out 🤗👴🏻
Cut off problems have a major amount of culprits. Spindle diameter, chuck overhang, how the compound is made etc. I always use autofeed with cut off. In the past I have had situations were faster feed is better than slow. Also slower lathe speed... or faster. Larger more ridged lates are way more forgiving. With small lathes you are working with multiple resonances. Probably the biggest problem with most small older lathes is the depth of the chuck. The spindle size is not adequate to handle work 4.5 inches from the bearing. I suspect this cut off tool holder will resolve most these issues. The old chucks that came with these lathes worked way better... very shallow.
As for welding... I used to travel the other way but the best welder I ever saw pushed the tip. I can't say my welding improved by doing this but it doesn't seem to matter for me. I used to be good at stick welding and yes watching the pool helped. Mig is happening too fast.... just don't see it. My biggest problem is being dead on center.
@@WinkysWorkshop I have a 500w shop light I put near my welding and shine into the area - it's just below tripping the autohelmet - that way I can see everything with the helmet down and me in position before pulling the trigger. If I lose my spot - just let go of the trigger - can see again in the quick pause-
@@shakdidagalimal I've done the same although it was a clamp light and temporary. Not 500 watt either. That would help for sure!
Very good video, sure was ver good, u r very creative did a very good job with all of the building, I would like to
build one. I haven’t finished the other one u made first one u showed.
Very good job
Thank you very much! I'll be posting plans for a simplified version Friday.
Amazing!!!!
Thanks for sharing again!!!
My pleasure!
Something else I gotta build, great video winky, keep'um coming..
You will be amazed! Thanks
Nice project.
Thanks!
I am impressed to. and I like it too!
Thanks
Mill the blade holding slot at a slight angle to give the blade a little top rake for better yet performance.
Keep up the good work, JIM
You might be right! I don't thick it needs much put this might be a plus - Thanks
I've seen the Armstrong style cutoff tool with the flexion in it before but never used one. That turned out to be a very effective tool, I may have to try one of those at some point if I can't get my parting issues figured out on my import lathe, lol!
Hello Everett, I have a new design I'll be posting tomorrow. It seems to work well and it's a lot more simple to make. Oddly, I made a second holder of this design and it acted like a tuning fork. Apparently the tool was slightly different in weight or rigidity but I never did figure out how to fix it. So far this new design is great!
Excellent! Going on the to do list
I hope to have the drawings posted in about a week. Thanks
Great video, thanks for sharing.
Thanks Ken!
Wicked sharp idea. I also struggle with cutoff tool use so I will be looking for the drawings. Thanks
You will be surprised but it will be a good one.
That was super interesting. I wonder if the design could work on a soggy mini lathe? 🤔, always a problem with those machines made from Chinese rubber 😉. A project for spring me thinks.
Thanks for another great idea.
This guy here is using one on his soggy lathe ruclips.net/video/RWhIa-3gMfg/видео.html
Job well done!
The next video is a better design if you are interested.
Looks like it works pretty good!!
I agree. I was amazed.
Thanks for sharing. I too have problems parting off on my lathe. Would love to see an update after you've used it for a while.
It's still working well but here's something weird. I made a second one and it chatters bad and I can't figure out why. I'll figure it out but right now I'm stumped.
Excellent. !!!!!!
Thanks... there will be a new version posted Friday. It's easier to make and works well.
Amazed this works- looks like a recipe for chatter. Guess the thickness of the steel used reduces the movement- and that might match the mount flexing, giving a neutral overall movement. Fortuitous.
The trick to this design is that the blade pulls back when deflected. The feed rate and speeds are a little finicky. When the blade first contacts the work it lets out a scream (high pitch chatter) for about one second until the tool is compressed a little.
@@Morkmtw I understand the principle of unloading the cutter by deflection- my concern is that this is a dynamic system, with feed altering the load over time, and the mass of the assembly (sort of 'unsprung weight') acts as a mechanical inductance. Depending on values, oscillation can result- I.e. chatter. Without a lot of analysis, this may be a matter of luck when choosing dimensions.
@@Tensquaremetreworkshop Yep, I agree. The right feed rate is critical and the amount of stick out, width of blade, strength of spring all play a part. I will say however that the I have been using the final version without much issue for quite a while now. Yesterday I extended the blade and cut 2-inch stock and aside from the momentary (and deafening) scream it the start of the cut it was without issue. It may not be perfect and there maybe a better combination but it works. I also made a solid direct mount design but it was more time consuming to use. It eliminated the tool post and mounted to the compound. it worked near prefect also but without the scream! Ha
@@WinkysWorkshop That suggests the carriage flexion and the holder flexion may be fighting each other... Adding a resistive load (friction) may damp the resonance. Moving it above the audible range may also be possible.
Do you clamp your carriage while parting?
@@Tensquaremetreworkshop It's the same as moving chalk on a chalk board. It makes a noise until you apply more pressure. Yes, I lock the carriage although it acts the same with unlocked. The pressure is 100% downward and there is no chance of movement. I lock it to avoid the possibility of bumping the carriage handle and moving it laterally. The screech is only an annoyance. I sometimes start the cut rapidly before engaging the power feed. And yes, there probably is flexing in the compound until the downward pressure on the blade fully removes clearances in the dovetail slides and also partly compresses the flex in the tool. The tool is not perfect but beats the heck out of the standard blade holder. No planetary alignment required.
Pretty awesome! I may have to build one for myself, you could use 2 button head screws on top and bottom of the cutoff blade to hold it in place to increase the clearance
That's a good idea. The only concern if that the top of the blade is concave and has a cutting ends on the side. the screw might damage the blade edge.
@@WinkysWorkshop make a thin aluminum washer to go under the head of the screw
@@johnnym1320 The problem is, the blade is slightly recessed and the top is larger. The blade is T shaped. The top 3/16 can not be clamps because the recess behind it is slightly deeper than the blade.
Mark, that was awesome. I'm gonna have to make one as I'm working on a cutoff tool shootout video that compares various cutoff tools and holding setups. Gilles ;)
Cool... here's something weird. I made a second one and it chatters bad and I can't figure out why. I'll figure it out but right now I'm stumped. If you make one and it works let me know.
Anxiously await the plans and material recommendations. Thanks.
Unless something comes up I'll post a short video and the plans next Friday. Thanks for watching.
Nice work , I guess I need to build one too
I'll have a new video posted tomorrow with a new (and better) design and the plans.
@@WinkysWorkshop I look forward to it, thanks
This is fantastic. Thank you.
You're very welcome!
Nice work.
You also could drill and tap and counter bore two screw on the weld side into your tool holder for additional holding power.
To take some pressure off of the weld.
Also the .500 x .625 is a great idea.
I really like the holder.
I think I'll make one myself.
Great content.
Thank you, EM.
Great idea. I did this. thanks
I designed an upside down cut off holder. Works great. All problems went away. Never go back to original way!
If you have a lathe that runs in reverse that works well for the same reason this tool works. Many older lathes have screw on chucks however. Parting from behind and upside down works well too but many cross slides don't extend for enough back.
Thank you for the video. There is always something to learn. The weld would have been stronger if you had ground a chamfer ( half 'V' weld prep) on the square stock you were welding on.
I agree... be sure and watch part 2
@@WinkysWorkshop Thank you for the reply. I await Pt2.
@@johnspathonis1078 It's already posted, here you go: ruclips.net/video/s9qcd5-wj3c/видео.html
I just made a swan neck parting off tool from a piece of carbide tipped circular saw blade, much easier to make and it worked quite well.
That's super cool. Do you have a video?
@@WinkysWorkshop Sorry, no; when I said "I just made.." I was referring to the simplistic method of construction, rather than meaning recently, it was probably 20 years ago. I don't even think I still have the tool, I think someone chucked it in a clear-out. I used a green grit grinding wheel in a Dremel type tool to put a little dip in the carbide tip to "crimp" the chips (so they are narrow enough not to jam in the grove ) this also seemed to work well.
Great Job Im Amaised! Winky
Thanks
I would suggest milling a groove for the height knob clearance, I am guessing 20 to 60 thousandths should work for you. Good luck. Lee
that would have worked well. I ended up making a little different style after this one anyway. Thanks
I've seen people use countersunk screws to hold the 1/2" square piece to give a clean join.
I think that would be a better approach. I could also slot the back maybe 3/32" and it would never move.
@@WinkysWorkshop most of the youtube examples I've seen have been from a Russian or at least Slavic channel so I can't really tell you much more. It is an amazing mount and now that I've seen your video I'm going to give it a go.
@@neillawson4493 I'll have the plans drawn up by Friday. Updated without welding.
Its on my list, thank you
A new easier to make design will be posted tomorrow if you are interested. Thanks!
I don't like the clamping mechanism for the cutter since it means you need lots more clearance between the chuck and the cut-off line. However...the total LACK of any chatter at all was impressive. I think I'll have to try making one of these. What kind of steel did you use?
It's mild steel... check out my next video ruclips.net/video/s9qcd5-wj3c/видео.html
I was thinking it may have been better to weld the square piece by drilling holes where the tool goes, welding the square bar via the holes drilled, and then some cleanup.
BTW: That bandsaw attachment is something I have to build for my bandsaw. Great idea...
That bandsaw idea was given to me by a viewer. I agree, it was fantastic! 2 x 2 tubing would be fine. I just had the 3 x 3. Your welding idea is good. I like it. However, I made a new tool after this one that is both easier to make and works better. Check it out ruclips.net/video/s9qcd5-wj3c/видео.html
@@WinkysWorkshop
Thank you for the reply... Subscribed 👍
Hello Sir, really interesting concept.
I have a very small mini lathe, and i am really have problems doing parting, and i would like to try to make this blade holder, but maybe a bit smaller for my little late.
Would you, by any chance have made a drawing with dimensions of the tool, as guideline for such a blade holder?
watch this follow up video - ruclips.net/video/s9qcd5-wj3c/видео.htmlsi=t7Pkoa7JIJxegPP_
Hi Winky, great result. One thing I noticed on the blade clearance on the back half, you made allowance above but the original seemed to have several mm below as well which it seemed you didn't replicate. Might be worth widening that part as well.
Good observation. I'm not sure why this would make a difference but you never know.
Downward motion as the tool catches may mean it needs that extra wiggle room. i.e. not simple rotation.