As many tools as I have (enough to build a car, boat or airplane) I was not aware of the square drive tap holders and had been trying to invent something much like this. Holding the tap was the last problem to solve. Many thanks!
"Necessity is (indeed) the mother of invention!" I admire anyone who can create a useful "jig" or "tool" that enhances the fabrication experience. Nice job. Best wishes and stay healthy.
Another beautiful video - thank you so much. I like your project very much, but it' also a joy just watching you work. You have a calm and unhurried confidence that really shows the pleasure you feel as you do the work.
NOT HATE MAIL ... I've been a fan of your Channel for a long time and have learned many things and ideas. One comment I've debated with myself over is watching you stop the drill press chuck with your left hand after shutdown. It hearkens me back to 1967 when my summer job before starting college was working at the Chevrolet Assembly Plant in Flint, Michigan. My work station was next to a guy who had recently transferred from the 4 cylinder motor assembly line to the V8 line. Before it became automated, his job at both locations was operating a stantion drill press to assure certain water passages in the engine block were symmetric. For years, while working on the 4 cylinder line, he had stoppled the chuck by grabbing it with his hand, without incident. On his first day on the V8 line, and while doing the same job as before, he reached up to stop the chuck. Because these chucks used an allen key versus a chuck key, and the drill in the chuck on the V8 line was larger in diameter that the one on the 4 cylinder line, the tip of the allen key protruded slightly, which grabbed his wedding ring and ripped his finger off, including the tendons that connect it into the hand. Obviously, "you" don't wear a ring when you work in the shop, but many Channel Observers do. Even though virtually all of us have a "chuck key" arrangement, I can still see a situation where the teeth of the chuck could grab a ring and do the same damage. Anyway ... it's off to better thoughts.
You're probably right, a bad habit. That a sad story for sure. I don't think anything quite that drastic could happen with my drill press but nevertheless. I'm not sure why the hex key was sticking out but somebody should have taken care of that. I should always exercise caution but when I'm around a new machine I'm in hyper caution mode. I worked as an engineer (without the degree) modifying and printing presses and related equipment. I wasn't allowed to use many of the machine in the shop but for some reason the drill press was okay to use. The darn thing was grossly over powered. with a big 3 hp motor. They had an old 6 inch mill vice on the table but no way o clamp it done. I saw one of the machinists drill in 1 inch hole and it grabbed, spun around a couple times and flew across the shop. I'm glad my lathe and drill press have 1/2 hp motors.
@@WinkysWorkshop A brief explanation. The drill press model used on each production line was the same in both locations, however the hole to be machined on the V8 line was larger, therefore taking a larger diameter drill. As to why the machines used allen bolts, I have to presume because the allen bolt might be faster to operate, and more likely, people being people, chuck keys would get misplaced (allen wrenches are everywhere), just a guess. Because the drill diameter was greater, when the allen bolt was tightened, a small amount of the head remained outside the chuck. Not much, but just enough to catch the guy's ring. Of course, like all barn doors ... after the horse left the barn, a new rule came out that #1 don't brake the turning chuck, and #2 remove all jewelry (to include necklaces) before operating equipment. URELATED ... a guy with an Afro Hairstyle was operating a pneumatic multi-socket (had to be 12-15 sockets) tool (very large device) that had two thumb-levers. One lever initiated the sockets, and the other lever lowered the machine onto the headbolts. One day a socket snapped in 1/2. The operator stuck his head down to assess the problem and the 1/2 of the socket that stayed on the machine grabbed his hair. You guessed it. Very ugly. From then on, we all had to wear hair nets while operating the machine and were told to let the "mill-right" conduct any assessments to the machine.
Great job, as usual. Tapping has become a chore for me after tapping SO many hole at work and home. Still love the old movie projector rolling at the end of the video.
Very nice build Wink, a few of my tools have sliding handles like your new tap handle, I solved the sliding problem with 2, O rings on the shaft so it can still slide when I want it to for extra leverage. Also, on another subject, I have an 80s Craftsman brand drill press that I hate but it has one nice feature for a long time I never knew it had. It's possible to set the quill spring to force the quill up or force it down by pulling the 3 spoke handle out and adjusting the spring tension either way. It's a very handy feature for drilling, with the exception that you have to lock the quill in the up position, but it is very easy to change the force direction anyway. I mostly have it set to the force-down direction for an easier drill bit to punch mark alignment. Don't know if all drill presses have that feature but I stumble on it when I was replacing the quill bearings by a setup mistake.
I thought about the o-ring method but most often I want it in the middle anyway. My drill press has that adjustment but it's not quick and easy. That would be handy at times.
Hey Winky, when you finished it and tested it out I noted your reaction. You said "I love it"! My guess is that anyone who has ever tapped a hole will Love It. PERFECTAMUNDO! Chris
I was really enjoying this video till you started polishing your knob!...Then I bursted out laughing and had to make this comment!...I'll see myself out now! Keep up the good work!
11:10 (and a skosh) got approval laughter from me, lol... Now following Sparkie Kosten's lead and showing myself out (chuckling) too. Definitely enjoyed the video. Thank you for making and posting it.
I remember back in the 60's a die shop I worked at had a tapping fixture. A C-frame with a floating spindle, with a handwheel that had a spinner handle on it, attached on the top end. Place the work under the spindle and turn the handwheel. There were collects for every size tap. The C-frame kept the workpiece from spinning.
When you were thinking about brazing the Tee bar I was talking to my screen and saying 'just put a grub screw in the shank'....you must have heard me😨. Nice job,I like your design very much👍
Dang... I was telling my wife I was having super natural guidance while making this video. I told her I has hearing voices. She didn't look pleased. Thanks for posting, I'll show her your comment!
First time viewer here and now a subscriber. Thanks for the tapping tips and the small project. I have had great success using form taps and have yet to break one so whenever I need to purchase a new tap I select the forming tap. By the way all the manufactured tools I have tested are usually around Rc 36 in hardness, soft enough to drill through.
@@WinkysWorkshop Yes for softer more ductile materials such as aluminum and leaded steel. Form, “express” taps require a larger tap drill size since a portion of the material“flows” into the hole. With the correct size tap drill and proper lubricant the tap and the thread is stronger.
Nice job. Back in the days of steam, we used to use taps chucked in a Jacob's chuck, in a vertical mill, and power tapped. The tap would slip when the threads were at the point that we would finish off manually. Another trick was to use a socket just bigger than the tap OD to guide it when starting. Working smarter not harder when ever possible. Keep up the good work and ideas!
By golly I think you have made the best ever guided tap ranch!!! And I noticed that power table being used quite often!! Awesome idea, thanks Winky!!!!!
I'm a bit late in the game here. I've been watching your videos for a couple years now, just missed this when it came out I guess. An improved tap handle is on a short list that I should be getting too soonish. I hope you don't mind me taken some of your ideas as inspiration. Only major difference is mine will have a removable spring guide "pusher" in or really with it if I don't need it for something in particular. Got some nice ideas from this video that should really help lower the complexity of the finished tap handle. Always enjoy your videos Winky, I might miss one every now and a again, but I think I'll be watching these videos as long as you are still putting them out. Learn something new in alot of them and kinda feel like a buddy is showing me what he's been up to in the shop.
I love this comment. Thanks! I've always felt the same when I watched Mr. Pete. I had the opportunity to meet him in person last year and he was a great person. Thanks again!
Great video. I like the different types of tap wrenches and advantages and disadvantages of each. I do a lot of tapping in my 15 inch drill press, especially on aluminum, with the tap held in the chuck. Takes a low speed, reversing motor, a bit of oil, and a quick in and out.
@@WinkysWorkshop Actually my drill press motor is single phase 3/4 HP 1750 with reversing switch. I’ve learned to “bump” the switch about one second on while starting the tap then quickly off with spindle momentum “coasting” the tap through the part. On aluminum parts it’s a quick on, off, and reverse out. Three phase would be much better but with a little practice drill press tapping can be done with single phase. Keep those good educational videos coming.
Thanks Roger. Yeah, I love this tap wrench. Of course it helps to have a drill press with a table that doesn't swing around. I can't imagine why drill press manufactures don't offer one with a dovetail column or box ways. Expense I'd say but I'd be willing to pay.
Looking good. I just put the tap in the drill press chuck and start the motor then when I get close to the hole stop the motor and jam the tap in. Starts strainght every time.
I was sent two of those socket type tape wrenches for free from the manufacturer. Now I know what I'm going to do with them! Even the adapters were a Harbor Freight freebee.
I didn't know about the Harbor Freight freebes. These are made my Irwin and seem to be good quality. I've used this wrench at least a dozen times now... I love it!
@@WinkysWorkshop The tap holders are Irwin. One of my set broke and they sent me the socket type saying they were better for tap holding. Yes Harbor Freight were I live sends me a lot of free coupons. I guess I buy a lot of their stuff. I usually consider some disposable but surprised when some last year's.
Liked it very much. Funny how I used taps all my life and never had a problem with them being non-concentric. ...Badda-bing-badda-boom... UNTIL I started doing some precision work. YIKES -- never realized just how off they could be !!! This appears to be a great solution - got the Irwin tap socket set $29 in my Wishlist for the next set of orders. Will be fun to make. Would have been nice to have a spring-ball type mechanism for centering the handle, but I sure don't see any easy of of doing it w/o making the upper handle of a 1/4" larger diameter. But really not important that set screw can be let out if leverage is REALLY needed. Thankyou.
I considered the ball and detent on the handle but honestly I've never needed to slide the handle. I use the heck out of this tap wrench. Thanks for watching!
Just rewatching your video not realizing I'd watched it before until I saw my comment, I improved all drill press work by removing the handle on the drill chuck key and welding it through a box end of a combination wrench 1/2" or 9/16" and the first time I used it I thought why did I do this 10 years ago.
My husband used the same female tap adapter but he used a sliding T handle that had a 1/2 square male on the bottom and a combination 3/8 and 1/4 male adapter on the top of the sliding T handle. He put a deep 10 mm socket onto the 1/4 adapter on top and now had a tool very similar ot the one you made but using ready purchased tools.
Nice tool Winky! One tip if you wish to make the handle tight in the body, then put a deep coarse knurl where you want it tight and if it is not too slack in the first place then it will become a light press fit. I did this when I made an unequal length handle for my Chinese 6" three jaw chuck on my lathe to give me just a little more purchase. It worked a treat. ( Not my idea, I was only copying the original stock handle)
What a great design! As I see it, the most important aspect of this design, is the guide for the tapping tool provided by the de-burring tool and adaptor you made. So the question for me is how to make an adapter for my tap wrench - which works fine and will be even better if guided. Thanks Winky!
Thanks for this Mark, I've been looking at those tap holders. Nice job on the T-handle. Another option for securing it would be an o-ring on either side. That way ithe handle could be easily moved if tapping in tight quarters.
I think the black drive is for impact and hardened. And on the handle take a chisel and upset the handle on both sides of the tap holder. Just a little should stop it from moving all the way side to side.
Great idea Mark i am sure going to have to add this as a priority to my project list. Like you to many tapped holes gets a bit to much. Completely agree.😊😊👍👍🏆 Champion idea between tap sizes too.
Thanks Troy, I think you will love it. Be sure to get the same tap socket that I did. I bought some about a year ago for the same purpose and ended up sending them back. They looked quality but held the taps crooked. Irwin seems to be much better! PN 3095001
The set screw was a stoke of genius, I would add a groove centered on the ‘T’ handle for the set screw to hold and balance it. Although in retrospect, I am a little OCD at times.
nice job thats the nicest tap handle I've seen. hope you don't mind if I use your idea and make one for myself.I have really big hands and I find those t-handle tap handles very hard on my hands after awhile. great video.
With the 2nd type you used the wrong size if you used a smaller handle/ holder the back of the tap sticks threw, allowing access to the center hole on the back of the taps square end. So can use a dead center.
I thought about that too although most often I'd leave the handle in the middle. Cool on the drill press! I absolutely love mine, especially after adding the HF drill power lift. The only thing I'd change is to increase the width of the vertical front lower arms, the ones that hold the eccentric pin/bearing. You might also pin or weld the arms to the horizontal piece. My table has a little spring to it.... certainly not a major concern but still worthwhile fixing while you are building it.
Instead of the set screw to hold the tee handle in place you could use an O ring that fits snug or a plain old rubber band twisted multiple times till it fit snug on both sides of the tee handle. Then if you did want to move the handle to get more leverage you could get it to slide instead of having to find your allen wrench to loosen the set screw
Hello Mr. Winky, I wonder if an old machinist's trick would work for you on the loose handle rod: perhaps try knurling the area that slips through the body. It might gain you a few thou and make it fit. BTW, GREAT IDEA! I will be making one...
Much better than a T handle with a spring loaded tap follower. More leverage, easier on your hands and you can leave the countersink bit in the chuck. I made a different version which worked well but this is way easier to make and more durable (I broke my first one).
Nice. Me, i would have just added leverage to the little wrench's handles to solve the comfort issue, and hooked a weight on the drill press handle to solve the need for a third hand issue. But i can't get shmancy tools like the cool adapters you used.
Great! Thanks for watching. The part number is in the description. RUclips would tag it as advertising if I said put it in the video. Google the number.
Well you have to adapt to the additional leverage but when a tap is guided if can talk a lot more force. So far I have broken one tap and it was very dull.
If you like spring loaded guides, just drop an appropriately sized spring in the top before you insert the countersink bit, and set your quill position to preload the tap handle.
@@WinkysWorkshop I made a series of 'tap holders' by drilling a stopped hole through a piece of round stock the size of the shank of the tap and then with the stock vertically in the mill vice from the other end made a pass in X and then Y axis using a cutter the correct size for the width of the flats on the back of the tap. It now has a sliding fit in the front part of the guide and then the flats are held by the '+' in the back. (Not my idea I saw someone do this a while ago) They were then supposed to go in the drill press chuck but it didn't work that well but if I make a sliding adapter then perhaps it might.
I found these but they are high priced. I pay less than half this amount here in the US. Exchange rate? www.desertcart.com.au/products/3348850-irwin-tap-socket-set-adjustable-2-piece-3095001
Hello Sir, here is another good idea and excellently carried out. I bought the 3/8 "square drive tap Holder. To put your idea into action, I hit 2 points. In 14'11 What is the name of the black piece you sawed and do you have a link for it? purchase. In 1'30 what and the name of your chamfering tool and maybe a link for the purchase. I cannot find these products on the web. Have a nice day with my kind regards. PK (French)
Hello Paul, the tool I used to chamfer is a "3/8" 82 degree carbide single flute countersink". They are a bit high priced but considering they last forever I think they are worth buying. 82 degrees is US angle for flathead bolts/screws. If you are not in the US you might want to get a 90 degree as most metric screws are 90 degree. amzn.to/3vlkkQl I'm not sure what you saw at 14:11. Maybe the 3/8" extension I sacrificed? amzn.to/3vjNGys
@@WinkysWorkshop Hello sir, thank you for your information. For the extension it's ok, concerning the chamfer cutter, it is out of stock; I'll wait. Thank you for everything, good luck and have a good day. P. K.
Thanks, the part number is in the description under the video. Both Irwin and Grip sell the same chuck. Google the part number. Eastwood has one for $15 right now and a pop up discount of 10% which might offset some of the shipping.
Both are correct actually but in most cases the larger drill is way easier and strong enough, especially with larger taps! I'm using an old drill/tap chart by Starrett. I need to print out one with the minimum and maximum sizes. Weird that Starrett didn't bother with this info, but you are right, thanks for the reminder.
They work okay but not very well with an air ratchet or in tight area's on equipment. I went to tap sockets instead. Using a ratchet works well for me. If you are fabricating this would work, nice video, thanks!
I love it! It gave me a idea , I combined your 3/8" Square drive tap holder with a spring loaded tap follower and a counter sink all in one. I would post a copy but I don't know how. Me no do tech.
@@WinkysWorkshop First time for google photos. photos.google.com/photo/AF1QipOYhX3Srt4mnfCBYElY_ClookCPsO2uels4Utau Haven't built one yet, my 9A is apart for cleaning / painting.
@@rodritz8384 Hello Rod, the link didn't work. In google photos - While viewing the picture you want to share click the left most icon. It's 3 dot connected with 2 lines. In the window that pops up click create link and then click copy. You can then past in into a comment to me.
@@WinkysWorkshop Like I said "Me No Do Tech" Actually I just never bother to figure it out till I need to. Try this "Take Three!" photos.app.goo.gl/vZVnqGVPTXcQCV7g6 I do really appreciate the work you do with your video's. I had a South Bend 9A given to me this fall I have torn down for cleaning/painting and I just picked up a Van Norman #10 duplex mill. I ran production lathes and mills for 40 years but these are different and I need all the help I can get.
![NOSFERATU - Official Trailer [HD] - Only In Theaters December 25](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/nulvWqYUM8k/mqdefault.jpg)
As many tools as I have (enough to build a car, boat or airplane) I was not aware of the square drive tap holders and had been trying to invent something much like this. Holding the tap was the last problem to solve. Many thanks!
Glad to help, I'll have to say, this is one item I use all the time!
"Necessity is (indeed) the mother of invention!" I admire anyone who can create a useful "jig" or "tool" that enhances the fabrication experience. Nice job. Best wishes and stay healthy.
Thanks! It definitely makes life easier.
Another beautiful video - thank you so much. I like your project very much, but it' also a joy just watching you work. You have a calm and unhurried confidence that really shows the pleasure you feel as you do the work.
Well thanks! I guess i really do enjoy my shop time. Thanks for watching!
NOT HATE MAIL ...
I've been a fan of your Channel for a long time and have learned many things and ideas. One comment I've debated with myself over is watching you stop the drill press chuck with your left hand after shutdown. It hearkens me back to 1967 when my summer job before starting college was working at the Chevrolet Assembly Plant in Flint, Michigan. My work station was next to a guy who had recently transferred from the 4 cylinder motor assembly line to the V8 line. Before it became automated, his job at both locations was operating a stantion drill press to assure certain water passages in the engine block were symmetric. For years, while working on the 4 cylinder line, he had stoppled the chuck by grabbing it with his hand, without incident. On his first day on the V8 line, and while doing the same job as before, he reached up to stop the chuck. Because these chucks used an allen key versus a chuck key, and the drill in the chuck on the V8 line was larger in diameter that the one on the 4 cylinder line, the tip of the allen key protruded slightly, which grabbed his wedding ring and ripped his finger off, including the tendons that connect it into the hand. Obviously, "you" don't wear a ring when you work in the shop, but many Channel Observers do. Even though virtually all of us have a "chuck key" arrangement, I can still see a situation where the teeth of the chuck could grab a ring and do the same damage. Anyway ... it's off to better thoughts.
You're probably right, a bad habit. That a sad story for sure. I don't think anything quite that drastic could happen with my drill press but nevertheless. I'm not sure why the hex key was sticking out but somebody should have taken care of that. I should always exercise caution but when I'm around a new machine I'm in hyper caution mode. I worked as an engineer (without the degree) modifying and printing presses and related equipment. I wasn't allowed to use many of the machine in the shop but for some reason the drill press was okay to use. The darn thing was grossly over powered. with a big 3 hp motor. They had an old 6 inch mill vice on the table but no way o clamp it done. I saw one of the machinists drill in 1 inch hole and it grabbed, spun around a couple times and flew across the shop. I'm glad my lathe and drill press have 1/2 hp motors.
@@WinkysWorkshop A brief explanation. The drill press model used on each production line was the same in both locations, however the hole to be machined on the V8 line was larger, therefore taking a larger diameter drill. As to why the machines used allen bolts, I have to presume because the allen bolt might be faster to operate, and more likely, people being people, chuck keys would get misplaced (allen wrenches are everywhere), just a guess. Because the drill diameter was greater, when the allen bolt was tightened, a small amount of the head remained outside the chuck. Not much, but just enough to catch the guy's ring. Of course, like all barn doors ... after the horse left the barn, a new rule came out that #1 don't brake the turning chuck, and #2 remove all jewelry (to include necklaces) before operating equipment.
URELATED ... a guy with an Afro Hairstyle was operating a pneumatic multi-socket (had to be 12-15 sockets) tool (very large device) that had two thumb-levers. One lever initiated the sockets, and the other lever lowered the machine onto the headbolts. One day a socket snapped in 1/2. The operator stuck his head down to assess the problem and the 1/2 of the socket that stayed on the machine grabbed his hair. You guessed it. Very ugly. From then on, we all had to wear hair nets while operating the machine and were told to let the "mill-right" conduct any assessments to the machine.
Great job, as usual. Tapping has become a chore for me after tapping SO many hole at work and home. Still love the old movie projector rolling at the end of the video.
Glad you enjoyed it! Thanks
Very nice build Wink, a few of my tools have sliding handles like your new tap handle, I solved the sliding problem with 2, O rings on the shaft so it can still slide when I want it to for extra leverage. Also, on another subject, I have an 80s Craftsman brand drill press that I hate but it has one nice feature for a long time I never knew it had. It's possible to set the quill spring to force the quill up or force it down by pulling the 3 spoke handle out and adjusting the spring tension either way. It's a very handy feature for drilling, with the exception that you have to lock the quill in the up position, but it is very easy to change the force direction anyway. I mostly have it set to the force-down direction for an easier drill bit to punch mark alignment. Don't know if all drill presses have that feature but I stumble on it when I was replacing the quill bearings by a setup mistake.
I thought about the o-ring method but most often I want it in the middle anyway. My drill press has that adjustment but it's not quick and easy. That would be handy at times.
Hey Winky, when you finished it and tested it out I noted your reaction. You said "I love it"! My guess is that anyone who has ever tapped a hole will Love It. PERFECTAMUNDO!
Chris
Thanks Chris, yes it's super easy to use!
I like your crisp working style and spare commentary.
Glad you enjoy it! I use the heck out of this tap wrench!
I was really enjoying this video till you started polishing your knob!...Then I bursted out laughing and had to make this comment!...I'll see myself out now!
Keep up the good work!
Glad you enjoyed it!
11:10 (and a skosh) got approval laughter from me, lol... Now following Sparkie Kosten's lead and showing myself out (chuckling) too. Definitely enjoyed the video. Thank you for making and posting it.
@@willin2 - Ha, thanks for the comment!
You keep your shop spotless. I'm envious.
Nice video. Lots of great ideas and instruction. Thank you.
It's cleaner than it used to be but I also clean up for the videos - Thanks!
I remember back in the 60's a die shop I worked at had a tapping fixture. A C-frame with a floating spindle, with a handwheel that had a spinner handle on it, attached on the top end. Place the work under the spindle and turn the handwheel. There were collects for every size tap. The C-frame kept the workpiece from spinning.
I've seen this... they work great.
I also work with a similar device tool when I was in the Navy in the 1960s
When you were thinking about brazing the Tee bar I was talking to my screen and saying 'just put a grub screw in the shank'....you must have heard me😨. Nice job,I like your design very much👍
Dang... I was telling my wife I was having super natural guidance while making this video. I told her I has hearing voices. She didn't look pleased. Thanks for posting, I'll show her your comment!
@@WinkysWorkshop Knurl the center and press it in. Standard shop practice in commercial shops
@@MrAndrewz1 - yep, that would have worked well although I like the set screw. It will allow me to move the handle if I ever want to. thanks!
New to your channel. Love your content! Best ever guided tap wrench.......most honest description on the Internet!
Wow, thank you! I'll have to agree, I use it all the time.
well Wink,i just finished my new (borrowed from you) tap-wrench,i absolutely love it....keep up the good work
That's Great! I love hearing that!
First time viewer here and now a subscriber. Thanks for the tapping tips and the small project. I have had great success using form taps and have yet to break one so whenever I need to purchase a new tap I select the forming tap. By the way all the manufactured tools I have tested are usually around Rc 36 in hardness, soft enough to drill through.
Thanks for the sub! I've never used a form tap. I hear they are stronger but better suited for softer metal.
@@WinkysWorkshop Yes for softer more ductile materials such as aluminum and leaded steel. Form, “express” taps require a larger tap drill size since a portion of the material“flows” into the hole. With the correct size tap drill and proper lubricant the tap and the thread is stronger.
Love the t handle idea. It feels so good when an idea is not good but actually great.
Thanks! I agree.
Nice job. Back in the days of steam, we used to use taps chucked in a Jacob's chuck, in a vertical mill, and power tapped. The tap would slip when the threads were at the point that we would finish off manually. Another trick was to use a socket just bigger than the tap OD to guide it when starting. Working smarter not harder when ever possible.
Keep up the good work and ideas!
Thanks!
Winky you done it thats great to the office to build one or two!Thanks Winky even though its 4 yrs ago lol!
Thanks great
By golly I think you have made the best ever guided tap ranch!!! And I noticed that power table being used quite often!! Awesome idea, thanks Winky!!!!!
I love the powered table. If I had a knee mill I'd have to have it powered too. Incredibly handy!
I'm a bit late in the game here. I've been watching your videos for a couple years now, just missed this when it came out I guess. An improved tap handle is on a short list that I should be getting too soonish. I hope you don't mind me taken some of your ideas as inspiration. Only major difference is mine will have a removable spring guide "pusher" in or really with it if I don't need it for something in particular. Got some nice ideas from this video that should really help lower the complexity of the finished tap handle.
Always enjoy your videos Winky, I might miss one every now and a again, but I think I'll be watching these videos as long as you are still putting them out. Learn something new in alot of them and kinda feel like a buddy is showing me what he's been up to in the shop.
I love this comment. Thanks! I've always felt the same when I watched Mr. Pete. I had the opportunity to meet him in person last year and he was a great person. Thanks again!
Great video. I like the different types of tap wrenches and advantages and disadvantages of each. I do a lot of tapping in my 15 inch drill press, especially on aluminum, with the tap held in the chuck. Takes a low speed, reversing motor, a bit of oil, and a quick in and out.
I've thought about getting a 3ph motor to get the low speed and instant reverse
@@WinkysWorkshop Actually my drill press motor is single phase 3/4 HP 1750 with reversing switch. I’ve learned to “bump” the switch about one second on while starting the tap then quickly off with spindle momentum “coasting” the tap through the part. On aluminum parts it’s a quick on, off, and reverse out. Three phase would be much better but with a little practice drill press tapping can be done with single phase. Keep those good educational videos coming.
You read my mind! I saw you use this in the cut-off holder video, and I said to myself "I want one of THOSE!"
Thanks Roger. Yeah, I love this tap wrench. Of course it helps to have a drill press with a table that doesn't swing around. I can't imagine why drill press manufactures don't offer one with a dovetail column or box ways. Expense I'd say but I'd be willing to pay.
@@WinkysWorkshop Don't have a drill press but do have a mini mill - it should work!
@@RogerTerrill Heck yeah!
I decided to follow your video and made a tap follow like yours, I already had the Irwin tap holder. I have to say it is the best follower I have now
Great to hear! I love it. Thanks!
What a Great project Mr. Winky. Thanks for sharing.
You are very welcome. Simple too. I use it a lot! Thanks!
Looking good. I just put the tap in the drill press chuck and start the motor then when I get close to the hole stop the motor and jam the tap in. Starts strainght every time.
Ha... effective! I like it. I might try it with a slower drill press... mine is a bit too fast. Even better would be 3 phase (instant reverse!)
I was sent two of those socket type tape wrenches for free from the manufacturer. Now I know what I'm going to do with them! Even the adapters were a Harbor Freight freebee.
I didn't know about the Harbor Freight freebes. These are made my Irwin and seem to be good quality. I've used this wrench at least a dozen times now... I love it!
@@WinkysWorkshop The tap holders are Irwin. One of my set broke and they sent me the socket type saying they were better for tap holding. Yes Harbor Freight were I live sends me a lot of free coupons. I guess I buy a lot of their stuff. I usually consider some disposable but surprised when some last year's.
Love that idea. Great work.
Thanks!
congats Mark,this is on Best home made tools,congrats again,see i said it.best video yet.....you deserve it my friend.
Thanks Ray, yeah I posted a few videos to the Homemade Tools web site. It was a nice surprise to get the award.
I’m going to make one, I have them tap holders! I’m also going to steal your idea of your chuck key on a leash!!!! Love it! Keep it up!
Thanks - Yeah... those chuck keys have a habit of getting away.
I like it! I've used a spring loaded tap guide for quite awhile, but this has some definite advantages.
Especially if you take the time to chamfer the hole. Plus there is no chance of the guide slipping out of the center. Thanks for watching
That is a good idea, especially since you can interchange taps quickly.
I agree, I have thought about getting two more. Thanks for watching.
So slick. Awesome little build.
Glad you like it. I use it a lot!
As usual, very informative and entertaining video.
Coming from Compass Precision and the kind of work you do that's a big compliment! Thanks!
Winky's Workshop you’re too kind! Thanks!
Top job , glad you didn't braze the lever in as you may be short of room one day and have to slide it back and forth.
So true! Thanks for watching.
I bought a couple of those tap heads with a similar goal, now I know how to do it!
That worked out well!
Liked it very much. Funny how I used taps all my life and never had a problem with them being non-concentric.
...Badda-bing-badda-boom... UNTIL I started doing some precision work. YIKES -- never realized just how off they could be !!!
This appears to be a great solution - got the Irwin tap socket set $29 in my Wishlist for the next set of orders. Will be fun to make.
Would have been nice to have a spring-ball type mechanism for centering the handle, but I sure don't see any easy of of doing it w/o making the upper handle of a 1/4" larger diameter.
But really not important that set screw can be let out if leverage is REALLY needed.
Thankyou.
I considered the ball and detent on the handle but honestly I've never needed to slide the handle. I use the heck out of this tap wrench. Thanks for watching!
@@WinkysWorkshop You've got good long handles on it anyway & set screw is simpler.
Just rewatching your video not realizing I'd watched it before until I saw my comment, I improved all drill press work by removing the handle on the drill chuck key and welding it through a box end of a combination wrench 1/2" or 9/16" and the first time I used it I thought why did I do this 10 years ago.
That is a good idea! I'm sure the keys are made short to protect the chuck but slipping drills doesn't do the chuck any good either
My husband used the same female tap adapter but he used a sliding T handle that had a 1/2 square male on the bottom and a combination 3/8 and 1/4 male adapter on the top of the sliding T handle. He put a deep 10 mm socket onto the 1/4 adapter on top and now had a tool very similar ot the one you made but using ready purchased tools.
It sounds like you husband thinks like me
Awesome idea Mark! Adding to the project list!
ATB.....Dean
Thanks Dean. it's easy to make and I used the heck it. Almost every project in fact.
wink,i'm looking at your video again,i just love this video,it has to be one of the best ones yet..thanks again my friend
Thank you very much Ray. I'll have to admit I really like this wrench. Simple too.
Nice tool Winky! One tip if you wish to make the handle tight in the body, then put a deep coarse knurl where you want it tight and if it is not too slack in the first place then it will become a light press fit. I did this when I made an unequal length handle for my Chinese 6" three jaw chuck on my lathe to give me just a little more purchase. It worked a treat. ( Not my idea, I was only copying the original stock handle)
That's a good idea! I'd done this before. I went with the set screw I it would be easy to change the handle length if I needed to. Thanks
Very elegant. Thanks!
Thank you too!
👍👍😎👍👍 - tappin' holes can be so satisfying. Thanks for the ideas
Until you tap 30 or 40 - Ha
I want one too! Nice design and implementation.
Make one! You will love it!
Excellent design Winky.
Thanks! I use this wrench often.
Nice to figure new ways of making things easier....Cheers; Mike in Louisiana
Thanks, I agree. Take care
Hi Winky,
An interesting solution to your problem...
Take care
Paul,,
Thank you!
Thank you winki for the tip
You’re welcome 😊
Your shop is so clean... 😲!!!
I do try to keep it clean but there are times when it's a mess. Of course I don't show you in the video.
What a great design! As I see it, the most important aspect of this design, is the guide for the tapping tool provided by the de-burring tool and adaptor you made. So the question for me is how to make an adapter for my tap wrench - which works fine and will be even better if guided. Thanks Winky!
Your welcome. Thanks for watching!
Thanks for this Mark, I've been looking at those tap holders. Nice job on the T-handle. Another option for securing it would be an o-ring on either side. That way ithe handle could be easily moved if tapping in tight quarters.
The O-ring would work great! Thanks
knurl the center and that makes a hard press fit. Looks good with the set screw. nice job.
That would work well but the set screw works well too. It also secures the extension.
link or more detailed description of those items which hold the taps? And nice work and thanks for sharing your ideas/designs!
Thanks! I bought them on Amazon. I think they were $22 for the pair. Google 3095001
Great job mark I like the new tap handle
Thanks Raymond. It is a huge plus.
I think the black drive is for impact and hardened. And on the handle take a chisel and upset the handle on both sides of the tap holder. Just a little should stop it from moving all the way side to side.
I think in the past the black extensions might have been harder but these were just cheaper. (Harbor Freight) Good idea on the handle.
Nice!! It´s on my to do list, I liked the design👍👍.
Stay safe sir 🖖
Thanks, you too!
Thanks Mark, nice work again.
Thanks Ray!
Great invention. Thank you for sharing.
Your welcome!
Very cool tap wrench.
Thanks, I can honestly say I use it all the time.
Great idea Mark i am sure going to have to add this as a priority to my project list.
Like you to many tapped holes gets a bit to much. Completely agree.😊😊👍👍🏆
Champion idea between tap sizes too.
Thanks Troy, I think you will love it. Be sure to get the same tap socket that I did. I bought some about a year ago for the same purpose and ended up sending them back. They looked quality but held the taps crooked. Irwin seems to be much better! PN 3095001
@@WinkysWorkshop thanks mark for the heads up it does make a difference to getting the good results
I’m 66 years old but I’d still apprentice under you!
Haha... will thank you! I'm 67
Great video winky, keep'um coming.
Thank you! Will do!
Awesome job I like it thank you
You're welcome, thanks for watching.
I would put a thumb screw instead of set screw when you have to change the position of handle. A good project.
Not a bad idea!
Very nicely done. You could've also knurled the tee handle and then press fit it to the tap drive.
Very true!
The set screw was a stoke of genius, I would add a groove centered on the ‘T’ handle for the set screw to hold and balance it. Although in retrospect, I am a little OCD at times.
Actually I thought about doing that also but I was worried about it weakening the handle. Thanks for watching.
nice job thats the nicest tap handle I've seen. hope you don't mind if I use your idea and make one for myself.I have really big hands and I find those t-handle tap handles very hard on my hands after awhile. great video.
Thank! The standard t-handle wrenches are terrible if you have to tap more than one hole.
With the 2nd type you used the wrong size if you used a smaller handle/ holder the back of the tap sticks threw, allowing access to the center hole on the back of the taps square end. So can use a dead center.
This true if you have taps with a center hole. Most my taps do not have them and the ones that do are all larger sizes (3/8" or larger).
@@WinkysWorkshop thats a pain, keep up the great content on machining
@@JohnBlack-dv8ss Thanks John.
Very nice Mark, Thank You.
You bet!
Really nice! Maybe a ball detent set screw with a small groove? Working on my square column drill press now!
I thought about that too although most often I'd leave the handle in the middle. Cool on the drill press! I absolutely love mine, especially after adding the HF drill power lift. The only thing I'd change is to increase the width of the vertical front lower arms, the ones that hold the eccentric pin/bearing. You might also pin or weld the arms to the horizontal piece. My table has a little spring to it.... certainly not a major concern but still worthwhile fixing while you are building it.
Instead of the set screw to hold the tee handle in place you could use an O ring that fits snug or a plain old rubber band twisted multiple times till it fit snug on both sides of the tee handle. Then if you did want to move the handle to get more leverage you could get it to slide instead of having to find your allen wrench to loosen the set screw
Thanks, that's a great idea!
Thanks for the great video and information. Just subscribed.
Thanks for the sub! Your welcome.
Hello Mr. Winky, I wonder if an old machinist's trick would work for you on the loose handle rod: perhaps try knurling the area that slips through the body. It might gain you a few thou and make it fit.
BTW, GREAT IDEA! I will be making one...
Yeah... good idea. I have done that several times. Thanks!
That is an interesting take on a tap wrench
Much better than a T handle with a spring loaded tap follower. More leverage, easier on your hands and you can leave the countersink bit in the chuck. I made a different version which worked well but this is way easier to make and more durable (I broke my first one).
Nice. Me, i would have just added leverage to the little wrench's handles to solve the comfort issue, and hooked a weight on the drill press handle to solve the need for a third hand issue. But i can't get shmancy tools like the cool adapters you used.
That would work, thanks
Good job, useful tool! 😊 -Mark
Hello Mark, I agree, this is going to be handy.
Interesting. Very nice work
Thanks. Oddly, I suspect this is the most used tool in my shop
Love seeing creative solutions. Thanks for the video. I just subscribed.
What is the source of Your tap holders?
Great! Thanks for watching. The part number is in the description. RUclips would tag it as advertising if I said put it in the video. Google the number.
Perfect for use in the lathe too….may need a shorter handle…but that’s no problem
I totally agree, Thanks!
Nice job winky It turned out very usefull
Thanks Paul! I use this all the time!
Thanks for video, great job!!!
Thanks
You're awesome!
Haha... thanks. You are too!
Great design
Thank you! Cheers!
Excellent tap wrench/tap follower! But, won't it be harder to break taps with the shorter handle?? :)
Well you have to adapt to the additional leverage but when a tap is guided if can talk a lot more force. So far I have broken one tap and it was very dull.
If you like spring loaded guides, just drop an appropriately sized spring in the top before you insert the countersink bit, and set your quill position to preload the tap handle.
This is true but there is really no need for a spring.
Boy you sure getting alot of views nice job and nice work got a real kick out of the ending leave it to winki
Yeah... the ending was fun... kinda looks like old movie reels
Good morning Mr Winky. I love the Video where you use the adapters from 1/2” tap to #6 tap. Please give me link so that I can purchase those adapters
Google this part number 3095001
Thanks Mr Winky. They are on E- bay
It's a gooder Wink,
Thanks for sharing
Cheers
Thanks you sir. It seems to be a simple but effective solution to sore hands!
Winky, I think I have just found my weekend project. Better than tidying a bunch of screws, nuts and bolts that seem to have escaped their boxes.
Thanks, the part number for the adapter is in the description if you need it.
@@WinkysWorkshop I made a series of 'tap holders' by drilling a stopped hole through a piece of round stock the size of the shank of the tap and then with the stock vertically in the mill vice from the other end made a pass in X and then Y axis using a cutter the correct size for the width of the flats on the back of the tap. It now has a sliding fit in the front part of the guide and then the flats are held by the '+' in the back. (Not my idea I saw someone do this a while ago) They were then supposed to go in the drill press chuck but it didn't work that well but if I make a sliding adapter then perhaps it might.
@@michaellinahan7740 - I think you commented on my last tap holder. Thats a good idea and I thought about doing the same for using in my tail stock.
awesome, awesome video thanks for sharing.
Thanks - I love it too... and it's simple.
Very NICE.
thanks
Great idea! You should patent and sell!!!! Brilliant!
Thanks for the compliment! Patents are a pain and expensive and most people that have then never benefit from them. Thanks for the thought however.
enjoy your video as I am from Australia where do u purchase the adapters as i can't seam to find
them over here
I found these but they are high priced. I pay less than half this amount here in the US. Exchange rate? www.desertcart.com.au/products/3348850-irwin-tap-socket-set-adjustable-2-piece-3095001
no charge for the extra holes.
Hello Sir, here is another good idea and excellently carried out. I bought the 3/8 "square drive tap Holder. To put your idea into action, I hit 2 points. In 14'11 What is the name of the black piece you sawed and do you have a link for it? purchase. In 1'30 what and the name of your chamfering tool and maybe a link for the purchase. I cannot find these products on the web. Have a nice day with my kind regards. PK (French)
Hello Paul, the tool I used to chamfer is a "3/8" 82 degree carbide single flute countersink". They are a bit high priced but considering they last forever I think they are worth buying. 82 degrees is US angle for flathead bolts/screws. If you are not in the US you might want to get a 90 degree as most metric screws are 90 degree. amzn.to/3vlkkQl I'm not sure what you saw at 14:11. Maybe the 3/8" extension I sacrificed? amzn.to/3vjNGys
@@WinkysWorkshop Hello sir, thank you for your information. For the extension it's ok, concerning the chamfer cutter, it is out of stock; I'll wait. Thank you for everything, good luck and have a good day. P. K.
@@paulk3573 - You're welcome. Ebay sometimes has them also - 3/8" 82 degree single flute carbide countersink
Very good. The price of tapping chuck like this. Where to find chuck ?
Thanks, the part number is in the description under the video. Both Irwin and Grip sell the same chuck. Google the part number. Eastwood has one for $15 right now and a pop up discount of 10% which might offset some of the shipping.
Hey guy a no.7 or .2010 is for aluminum and a 7/32 or 0.21875 is for steel...
Both are correct actually but in most cases the larger drill is way easier and strong enough, especially with larger taps! I'm using an old drill/tap chart by Starrett. I need to print out one with the minimum and maximum sizes. Weird that Starrett didn't bother with this info, but you are right, thanks for the reminder.
They work okay but not very well with an air ratchet or in tight area's on equipment. I went to tap sockets instead. Using a ratchet works well for me. If you are fabricating this would work, nice video, thanks!
Your welcome and i agree
What is the make of the adapters, and who is the manufacturer? Seems like an idea I could use and fall in love with.; Keep it up
It's an Irwin 3095001 - thanks
I love it! It gave me a idea , I combined your 3/8" Square drive tap holder with a spring loaded tap follower and a counter sink all in one.
I would post a copy but I don't know how. Me no do tech.
Save a picture to google photos and send me a link.
@@WinkysWorkshop First time for google photos.
photos.google.com/photo/AF1QipOYhX3Srt4mnfCBYElY_ClookCPsO2uels4Utau
Haven't built one yet, my 9A is apart for cleaning / painting.
Moved it into a album. if the first don't work try this.
photos.google.com/album/AF1QipOVDCb7AvWZr5agVhVukh0sTbXQTzSJaFpLRbDo
@@rodritz8384 Hello Rod, the link didn't work. In google photos - While viewing the picture you want to share click the left most icon. It's 3 dot connected with 2 lines. In the window that pops up click create link and then click copy. You can then past in into a comment to me.
@@WinkysWorkshop Like I said "Me No Do Tech" Actually I just never bother to figure it out till I need to. Try this "Take Three!"
photos.app.goo.gl/vZVnqGVPTXcQCV7g6
I do really appreciate the work you do with your video's. I had a South Bend 9A given to me this fall I have torn down for cleaning/painting and I just picked up a Van Norman #10 duplex mill. I ran production lathes and mills for 40 years but these are different and I need all the help I can get.