Make your own Small Tap Handle !!
HTML-код
- Опубликовано: 29 сен 2024
- Many have commented on the small tap handle I'm using in the steam engine series. This video will show you how to make your own. Its easy to make and a good project you'll have for years.
Patreon Support: / joepie
Website: www.advancedin...
Web Store: www.advancedin...
Those V-notch parallels are pretty slick!
They do come in handy.
That there is as handy as a watch pocket! Look forward to including this to my tool box. Thanks you sir!
I think I'll sneak this in on my wife's "Things to do List" that she has for me :)
LoL. I'm not the only one?!
🤣
Really appreciate you sharing your knowledge. I was wondering how I was going to replace my broken China handles without a mill. Realize from your video that I was over thinking the flat and v opening. From your design, I can make the entire thing on my lathe.
Glad I could help!
Very very nice.
Thanks.
Awesome! Now this is perfect. I have large tap holders, but my small and medium do not work well as they are T handle style. Been eyeing Starrett, but this amazing! Now to build one and scale up to make a medium holder!
Customize it to fit your needs.
Nice I'm going to make one for myself. Thank you!
Nice work as usual. We featured this video in our homemade tools forum this week :)
Awesome! Thank you!
@@joepie221 You're very welcome. Feel free to email me at "jon" at our url, and I'll give you a coupon code so you can join our forum for free and post your videos whenever you want. Looks like you're one of us :)
Awesome idea!!!
Glad you think so!
I like it, but why thread it all of the way to the center? Just make a threadless hole for the last half inch to the center and remove the last half inch of threads from the screw. That would give you more meat on the handle..
I like it. It would allow for many different shapes with added strength at the smaller diameters. Good call.
Nice Video you coud use a coper tip screw to not damage the threads and it ads friction for more grabines
Awesome!
Excellent. Question Joe, what type of insert is that in the tool you used to cut the taper? Thanks!
TPG 321 KC710 ? coated
I made this tap handle with little trouble and excellent struggled learning. Great fun and very handy tool. Starting at about 9:26 you show vise jaws with a “v” slot. Is this shop made? I can’t find anything similar online. If shop made, this would be a good video for us who are beginners to see. Love your instruction. Thanks.
Shop made. Might be a good video??
Hi Joe. Could you please make some videos about Camlock mount Lathe Chucks (in detail if possible). My Lathe Holds D1-4 Size and It's very new to me. I would like to see how to maintain, adjust, or even make new back plate for a different chuck. Thank you and Happy new year
Just be sure that your cam posts are setup and extended so the cam lock index mark only rotates to a spot between the index lines on the cam collar. Thats very important.
@@joepie221 Thank you Joe.
There are only a few metric taps (that I use, to be fair) in the sort of range you'd need something delicate like this. Would it work well if you were to broach a square hole to match the size of each tap? Or, given the small torques at those tap sizes, would you need to harden and temper it to stop it from rounding out? Would EN19 (4140) or EN24T (4340 - at around 24HRC) be sufficient for those of use without the ability to harden steel? Just thinking it would make it massively more convenient not to have to adjust the screw - but obviously the disadvantage is one handle per tap.
I think you are way overthinking this.
@@utidjian That certainly is my M.O.
Which came first
The tap handle or the tap
Like which came first the chicken or the egg
Well the egg rolled over and lit a cigarette
Orangatang right? It's about the arm
I like your v-notch parallels! Gotta make a pair of those.
Very versatile.
Agreed... no video of those??
I so need one of these...magical
Thanks Joe
Saved in the "Future Projects" box.. Thank you Maestro. !
Better feel, better results. Enjoy it Del.
Just made one in metric and it works very well. Thank you.
Excellent. You'll get a lot of use out of it.
Awesome the v block parralels are a great idea........honestly this is my favorite type of content on your channel the everyday application stuff. Thanks for the heat treat advice.........see you on the next one
I use small taps, never have a tap wrench narrow enough to get the top into a tap guide, don't like using T handle style drivers as I lose too much Z height. Seeing the flat ground on the tap shank was a lightbulb on moment. I feel pretty stupid now...
Thanks Joe, love this type of content. You use a lot of custom tooling in your videos and would appreciate any of this type of instruction showing the details of construction. The parallels you use in this video for instance. They seem simple enough but for a novice like me I benefit from observing your setups.
Joe, your content is great. Thank you so much,
Congratulations on reaching the 100k+ subs!
Very well deserved!
Fantastic....now all I need is a lathe and vertical mill, I have a few small taps and this small handle looks like it could be the beginning of something beautiful.
Joe, this is one of those fun shop projects that Metal Shop instructors love to include in their curriculum. It's also one of those tools that often finds its way into your hand. I have a hand full of tap wrenches but I know when it's a small hole to tap this little guy will be the tap wrench I grab! *Its delicate tactility jumps right off the screen!*
Thanks!
Wakodahatchee Chris
FYI, tap sizes up to and including #6 MS (Machine Screw) or M3.5 (metric) made to USA (ANSI) dimensions, have the same size shank and square, which is .141 diameter. The only thing that varies is the length. So your tap wrench will fit #6 as well. If you have small taps that have different dimensions for shank and length, these are likely German DIN dimensions and are in mm. Great little handle. Dave
Interesting. Thanks.
I'm so glad that you are making these videos. This pandimic has put our backs against the wall. You have a great and clear explanation. I like the techniques that you use.
Hi Joe, just curious as to why the cross hole wasn't put in before the bolt hole as that's how I would do it, that way there is much less chance of a drill breaking or snatching or even wandering when putting the cross hole in. Awesome channel and always enjoy watching your vids. Ps, I don't mean to criticise, just merely asking your opinion. Thanks.
By drilling the cross hole first and then drilling and tapping for the bolt hole, it will burr and roach the the cross hole which needs to have good surface for tap alignment. By drilling the cross hole second it provides the smooth bore for better alignment (wobble of the tap handle).
@@wwilcox2726 I suppose there is argument for both methods. The cross hole could be cleaned up afterwards, it's not difficult. I guess it doesn't matter as long as the end result does as it claims, and it does just that.
I like it! Not sure what I’ll make first, the tap handles (I’ll be making several) or those handy soft jaws you had. Thanks Joe!
Those soft jaws come in handy.
Perfect little project for a cold snowy day here in Edmonton AB. I think I will make 2 or 3 different sizes👍
I feel like you're speaking directly to me. I just did this wrong in a video two weeks ago :P
A delicate tap handle, for delicate taps. Probably saved you 20 taps, and ruined projects, over the years.
Absolutely. It lets the tap dictate the pace.
I always drill the bigger hole first when going 5XD or deeper. That way the smaller drill doesn't have the long travel in and out, in which there's the opportunity to pack with chips and break.
Good approach for sure.
That's also a good approach for doing larger counterbores as it prevents the drill from snatching, especially good when drilling and counterboring brass.
this just wandered to the top of my to do on the lathe list
Thanks Joe
very cool little gismo and an easy fab
Love that one of yours Joe. I do have one of similar size which I've had for decades - back in the UK a company "Eclipse" made a very handy small handle - it's served me well. Yours is much prettier :)
Thanks joe!!! My 80 year old dad asked me to make him one of those. Thanks for sharing!!
I have a question: what if instead of drill and thread, you use one side of the handle like a retention making it as a bolt and the other side as a internal thread with two flat sides to use a spanner and perhaps as a leveling surface... sorry my bad English explanation!
Interesting thought. It's a simple sounding project if you made one of each type and then shared with us how each one ultimately performed.
Not bad.not bad at all. Could be worth making one!
At time 10:00. Why not make a light cut using an end mill bit to give a small flat surface for the center drill? That protects the following work if there's "a bad day", thinking about us, not having 46 years of experience.
It's not a bad idea, but it's extra steps. As long as you've got a reasonably rigid machine (and chuck, and spot drill), you can often get away without it and save some time. If you've got a smaller/less rigid setup, and/or you're working on smaller diameters and/or harder materials, then making yourself a flat spot for the drill to land is definitely more necessary.
My list of ‘Must Do’ projects keeps letting longer. Thanks, Joe for making it look easy.
Let me know when you need more.
Thanks Joe. Are those parallels with the vee slots made from aluminium?
I like that design. I have a similar size Starrett that I like a lot. I will make multiples of this handle so that I can leave the popular sizes set up all the time.
Very nice handle. Good video. Stay healthy!
Good shop project,I like it.Thanks for the video😎
I love how you mention the equivalent sizes in mm
Nice work Joe - added to the MUST_MAKE_ME _1 list
I have hundreds of 1/4-20 blind holes to tap at work, made one yesterday with only a Atlas 618 lathe and a drill press with a cross feed vice.
Thanks for the inspiration.
Yep ... just made myself one .... and your right .... its a brilliant little tool ... Thank you ... Cheers.
Provides amazing feedback.
I just found my next project. Thank you Joe. Already made the tap follower and the tailstock die holder.
You'll like this one as much.
@@joepie221 I'm pretty sure I will - I tend to do a lot of work with 2-3mm screws
Great video. I wish I could pick your brain. I want to make a benchtop surface grinder
If you do, make a video please.
I found it works better to drill and tap the hole first before you turn down the outside. That way the collet has a better grip and won’t slip when tapping and I used an 8/32 screw. Thanks neat project!
That's a nice little tool, I'm about to finally put a dro on my Bridgeport clone and I'll have to make one of these first just for some added safety to make sure I don't break a tap off in the machine
But wait, I thought 2x56 taps were supposed to break, no...I mean, I have quite a few 2x56 taps, of varying lengths;), I will absolutely be making one of these, as a Knifemaker, I hate those little bastard taps, particularly in 6Al4V:).
Thanks, Joe, this vid has just saved me...I'll take the fifth on how many future taps I'll break, but it will save me some beer money, thanks mate.
Scott.
Get coated taps for the TI and use one of these. (You'll get to drink more).
My taps go from M1.0 to M2.0...that’s a modeller’s life. I might just make one
Making the hole round so the tap slips if it binds has got to be one of the most clever things I saw in a while.
Everytime I watch, I learn something new!. Another great lesson and the craftiest of devices for keeping those alloy jaws in place. Thanks again Joe.
Little set-screw tip: apply a drop of silver solder to the tip of the set screw. It's very grippy but soft and doesn't mar the tool. And if it deforms, it doesn't wipe out the threads when you take it out. Takes only a minute. NTE did it with set screws on their pillowblock bearings briefly way back, which is where I got the idea.
This handle utilizes a Cap screw because the drive hex is twice the size for better grip. As for the tip, just sand it to a nice 45 degree angle and the threads won't get damaged either. The silver solder is a good idea, so is a brass insert.
@@joepie221 Thank you. Yes, I've done the brass insert as well with great success. Simply drilling a hole, putting in a bit of round, and letting the first tightening swage it in there. I switched to this because it was faster for me. And you get to play with fire.
Really appreciated... Thanks for sharing it help very much. Thanks sir.
I love good home made tools like this, making one this week end, from Coventry in UK,🇬🇧👍.
I been waiting for this vid.
Have you got a video on how to make those v groove parallels ,seems like a handy piece of equipment to have
Use a second vise set at 45 degrees in your primary vise. Mill on the Y axis using the edge of an end mill. Quick and easy. Do them one at a time.
@@joepie221 They sound and appear to be aluminum, is that correct?
@@flannel872 Correct.
Excellent little tool and is on my want to make list, thanks Joe.
Another nice little project added to my list
Lots of time here now, I watched this twice as I need to have one of these in my small tap container. I may try aluminum as I am going to try the Taig on this project first. Thanks for the tutoring Joe, much appreciated!
Thank you, your videos are really good. And encouraging.
Made one.. took me 2-1/2 hours after I thought it would be a 20 minute job!
Really happy though and thank you Joe for the tips.
Time well spent.
Great piece. Thanks for your dedicated work and nice explicit video. Great.
Glad you liked it!
appreciate the unique innovation/style/solution
can openers from the store don't seem to last long
Only if you could find a camera that is focused on the work more than you do... :)
Just finished mine, didn’t take long at all, shoulda done it years ago, thanks, Joe!🤩
For a fast project it is very well thought out. Something so simple but most useful in the end. Out-friggen-standing! Thank you, getting one to go in toolbox.
Glad you enjoyed it! You'll use it a lot.
Hey guy , Andy Szat... here I just happened to come across your videos. I worked with you back at Marlboro Tool in the late 80's., great deal that you started your own shop. Nice tap handle, I made something similar back in the 80's very handy. Good videos Joe
Wow. Andy S. ( I originally said 'Z') Good to hear from you brother. I hope you are doing well. Shoot me an offline message at aiproductinfo@gmail.com It would be good to catch up. Stay well.
Koster did that Auction with KD when I was working for KD buying equipment.
What year did that take place?
@@joepie221 2016
There are two kinds of people , my friend.... the ones who break taps and the ones who listen to Joe.
Is that Moly-Dee you used for tapping?
Version 2 is getting prettier. 😀😀😀
Form fits function. Bigger screw on V2.
Thanks for sharing those details. I have been wanting to make one since I saw you using one a few weeks ago on your 1:12 lathe build. Several nuggets in here that I would not have thought of (until I had to make a 2nd one LOL)
This little handle grabs hard and gets a lot of use. Go ahead and make one.
Brilliant! Just made one. Thanks Joe for sharing all this on here, it really is so helpful, great ideas and an excellent teacher.
Thank you. Home made tools are fun.
Wow Every Video is better then the last! lots of tips
Glad you like them!
Beautiful craftmanship.Thank you.
Thank you very much!
I might even be able to make that :)
This is great! I haven't found a single tap handle that I've liked. Admittedly, I'm cheap. But it will be fun to make some.
Go for it!
I have several tap handles that are either too large or too loose to be useful, one of these will replace several with the side benefit that it will take less room in a crowded tool drawer.
Plus give better feedback because of its size.
I just made one of these from 316 Stainless. It turned out to be 40 grams lighter (18 grams) than my next smallest tap handle. A Starrett 93-A I can already tell this will save plenty of taps! Thanks!
You get much better feel for the small taps.
Brill been looking for one of these for ages going to make one this afternoon cheers Joe.
Another nice project. Thanks. Also, the mill vise jaw inserts were very interesting. +++
Glad you like them!
Nice! Thanks Joe for another project
Cool tap slip trick!
What kind of steel? Does it matter if you harden it or not??
Doesn't have to be hard.
That's what she said 😁
sweet!!!!
Thanks, Joe! I appreciate all of your videos. Always at least a nugget to take away!
Show and tell can be valuable, but I like to include something you can take with you.
Life become easier when we watch your video joe thank you alot.
Happy to help
how about that thumb wheel you mentioned a while back?
ruclips.net/video/XNmd1-v62tw/видео.html
Nice job Joe, far better than the cheap cast rubbish from our Asian cousins. I just broke mine (moment of stupidity) so need to make a few, will use this as inspiration and video the project. Thanks, Jon
Thanks joe , It’s on my project list . High on that list.
kimberzelik@youtube
Well timed video. A couple days ago I had to use a M2.5x0.45 tap into 4140 and used a pin vice because I had nothing else. I'll be whipping one of these up today!
Cheers!
Re-post a comment with how you liked it.
@@joepie221 it's so cute but worked great!.
I'm leagues off your skill but every day in the shop makes me a little better.
Thanks so much for your dedication in sharing your knowledge.
hello Joe, this message is from Holland. I looked at your machining with a lot of interest. I have however one question. Why don't you clamp the tap on its square? Usually the square on a tap has the same corner diameter as the shank. I tried it and it works fine. You then don't have to grind a flat on your taps. Looking forward to your response. Herman
depending on how sharp the point is on the end of the tap, they sometimes go too far into my spring center to seat when a tap handle is registered on the square end. Thats the only reason.
@@joepie221 Small taps can be awkward little sods. The little 8BA taps I'm using have a centre hole rather than a point, & the flats are minute.
When I drilled the cross hole in mine I did a pilot hole first, then drilled the clearance hole just past the set screw, Then filed the clearance hole square. Now all the set screw is just for retention.
Thanks Joe and Happy Thanksgiving.
Why not drill the perpendicular hole first?
I needed this video last week 👍👍